I climbed this route twice in the 70s. Both times in May under a full moon, perfect lighting. There were rather fewer bolts then and they were 60s style bolts. On the dike pitches there was a bolt every 75 feet. The second time (first time was a party of six) three of the four of us had done it the first time and knew what to expect. We only clipped the belay bolts. It looks so different in daylight.
@@kwagner059 thanks man, I fly out in 2 weeks to do that route. Doing as much research as I can. Trying to get my head ready for the run outs. Not wildly experienced on slab.
@@kwagner059 Recently a NZ girl fell on it and had a foot amputated among her 600,000 in health bills. Why don't we just provide enough bolts on popular routes to make them safe? Like a committee who analyzes where bolts should be placed.
anybody else cringe when the guy at the anchor just unclipped one of his 2 bolts? Especially those older bolts and hangers on snake dike, I wouldn't trust my life to just 1 if I could avoid it.
From what I read on Climbing, she missed the first bolt and went quite a bit further.. probably a factor 2 on the previous belay? Hope she recovers quickly
Ya that's what got me here too. I wondered when he pointed at anchors cause I thought that's what she missed but, mann...pretty heady run-outs fsure. Appreciate the quality viewing, n rest up to the Anna. Lousy ass turn of events.
Recently a NZ girl fell on it and had a foot amputated among her $600,000 in health bills. Why don't we just provide enough bolts on popular routes to make them safe? Like a committee who analyzes where bolts should be placed, with the goal of 'we don't want people to get hurt'.
Because all of nature doesn't need to be domesticated and tamed for the convenience and safety of humans. Simply don't climb if you're that concerned about the potential consequences, seriously don't, stay in the gym, because our natural places are being destroyed by people attempting equalize nature. Clearly this person was climbing past their experience level. She went off route, passed a bolt, and fell trying to get back to it.
there’s no committee and never will be. There are too many routes and more get created every day. Best to ask the original route developers to add more, or take matters into your own hands.
@@kwagner059 Anarchy is not the solution. Committees are the solution, a committee for each climbing area. State, city, county and US parks have committees. They can't put 'safe climbing standards' on their agenda? The original route developers? Like 'I did it first so I own it?'
@@jerrygreene1493 call up the representatives in charge of the national park service. In fact, some are actively banning bolting, not the other way around. I agree that it makes no sense.
I climbed this route twice in the 70s. Both times in May under a full moon, perfect lighting. There were rather fewer bolts then and they were 60s style bolts. On the dike pitches there was a bolt every 75 feet. The second time (first time was a party of six) three of the four of us had done it the first time and knew what to expect. We only clipped the belay bolts. It looks so different in daylight.
This is probably the best video I've seen of the route.
Thanks!
Hey man thanks for the vid, what pitch was this? Aside from the obvious runouts, how secure did the climbing feel?
Somewhere around 2-3, if I remember correctly. It feels fairly secure once you’re on the dike.
@@kwagner059 thanks man, I fly out in 2 weeks to do that route. Doing as much research as I can. Trying to get my head ready for the run outs. Not wildly experienced on slab.
@@kylehasfun3114 look out for and don’t miss the bolts!
@@kwagner059 woof, no kidding. 😪. If you have any beta or notes worth sharing, I'm all ears
@@kwagner059 Recently a NZ girl fell on it and had a foot amputated among her 600,000 in health bills. Why don't we just provide enough bolts on popular routes to make them safe? Like a committee who analyzes where bolts should be placed.
anybody else cringe when the guy at the anchor just unclipped one of his 2 bolts? Especially those older bolts and hangers on snake dike, I wouldn't trust my life to just 1 if I could avoid it.
What exactly is a runout?
A long stretch of climbing with little or no protection.
Is this where Anna Parsons fell? Was she protected?
From what I read on Climbing, she missed the first bolt and went quite a bit further.. probably a factor 2 on the previous belay? Hope she recovers quickly
Ya that's what got me here too. I wondered when he pointed at anchors cause I thought that's what she missed but, mann...pretty heady run-outs fsure.
Appreciate the quality viewing, n rest up to the Anna. Lousy ass turn of events.
Recently a NZ girl fell on it and had a foot amputated among her $600,000 in health bills. Why don't we just provide enough bolts on popular routes to make them safe? Like a committee who analyzes where bolts should be placed, with the goal of 'we don't want people to get hurt'.
Because all of nature doesn't need to be domesticated and tamed for the convenience and safety of humans. Simply don't climb if you're that concerned about the potential consequences, seriously don't, stay in the gym, because our natural places are being destroyed by people attempting equalize nature. Clearly this person was climbing past their experience level. She went off route, passed a bolt, and fell trying to get back to it.
@@tahoeclimber Bolts are not an environmental issue. They simply provide safe access to recreation.
there’s no committee and never will be. There are too many routes and more get created every day. Best to ask the original route developers to add more, or take matters into your own hands.
@@kwagner059 Anarchy is not the solution. Committees are the solution, a committee for each climbing area. State, city, county and US parks have committees. They can't put 'safe climbing standards' on their agenda? The original route developers? Like 'I did it first so I own it?'
@@jerrygreene1493 call up the representatives in charge of the national park service. In fact, some are actively banning bolting, not the other way around. I agree that it makes no sense.