I've had a fat tire ebike for 5 years and it handles great as long as you've got the tire pressure high. On road I run typically around 30 psi and it handles similar to a motorcycle, but once you get the pressure below 15 psi, which is great for trails and loose stuff, you can really start to feel the sidewall flex when turning and it's not fun to ride on asphalt, especially at high speed.
Frankly at "overpressures" the rolling resistance and handling on pavement is really not far off from regular MTBs, I was really shocked at how high I could get the average speed even on trips of more than 20 miles. Its only 15% less than my "normal" bikes. I regularly use my unpowered fatbike that has 4.8s when i go for mixed surface trips, its totally acceptable when on the pavement during transitions and so nice on the corrugated to hell and back dirt roads. I'm not much of a off-roader so my technical routes are always fairly tame so i can't speak on that aspect with authority. Also if there's really extreme surfaces its best to have a battery powered compressor on you to quickly adjust pressure.
I have a bosch gen 4 fatbike. I think it's great. On asphalt it's not the smoothest ride however since most tires have pretty aggressive tread patterns. Much smoother when riding offroad or on gravel roads. It's also awesome in the winter with studded tires. Riding on extremely slippery ice is like riding on gravel.
Absolutely… I’d say don’t get a fat bike if you life in perfectly paved flat lander city with no curbs, never plan on off road or adventure trails, don’t care about aggressive appearance…. Otherwise GET a fat tire bike 😂
I have a folding e-bike and I have almost 2000 miles on it It works great with no problems. There may be some folding bikes that would not work out as a home build however. The one I have was made to be electric.
What do you have , I need to buy an ebike ASAP and not sure what to buy , I don't need to travel with it as I'll be using it to ride on the road for exercise and everyday shopping trips , but I am just thinking that if something was to go wrong with it I have no way of getting it to a shop for repair ? You help appreciated 🙂
Thanks for this one. I also just commented in one of your video on doing bike conversions and said that my project bike is a 35 yr old Bridgestone hardtail MTB. I take it out on trails and load up with my camera gear so this power assist is just to help out my 70 yr old knees without breaking the bank. I’ll update when my project comes to fruition
I have a bafang ultra on my fatbike just keep the 4" tires on it and got studded terene cake eaters for winter Just add a bit more psi to the tires for street and they feel normal After 2 weeks I sold my non fatbike it felt so unstable and the bar width was so much shorter I think that was the main issue
My favourite part about this video is when he says "unless you need it". These aren't hard and fast rules, if you need a bike for the snow or sand, get a fat tire bike, if you need a bike for your limited space camper, get a folder. Fantastic short video, and valid points.
So true! I repeatedly popped my 2 gas "Dixie's"s with 750 (mm?) tires,and would drive on the rims back,because of the distance . Then the tires are coming off the rims and going into bad places...
I love how short and to the point some of these videos are. I put a Curry Electric bike kit with a 24 volt lead acid on to my Schwinn hybrid 21 years ago. I think it is time to revisit my interest in this! Subscribed!
i will say after riding my DIY fatbike for now 2 years as a commuter, after changing some things it has been great. im using thinner rims that make the tire profile more round so handling isnt too bad. thou i am 6'6" and 300lbs, so i feel better on it than most MTBs. its not for everyone but its not something that should be avoided completely. also u can do 3.5" tires (currently run 4in mammoths in back, and 3.5" vee speedsters in front). handles 35mph really well especially after swapping the front fork for a doublecrown rigid fork :D
@@kazhankazhanovych6895 more rigid, less flex under heavy braking or turning, better transmittion of road feel to the bars. But be aware double crowns can stress a cheap frame with low quality welds.
I converted a free-to-me full aluminum, with shocks front and back. It was far too late to realize I should have gotten something with disc brakes and somewhere to actually put the battery and controller. It seemed a perfect coincidence until I actually started to try and get everything to fit well.
Fat bikes with mid drives... They’re kicking on canal and river paths. Great in the woods and on mountains and hills too! I love the extra traction and confidence on rocky or shingly mountain and hill tracks (getting old... injuries don’t heal well). In my opinion, mid drive motors on fat bikes makes a lot of sense... a little help getting over the rolling resistance. 😊 also makes my Surly Pugsley towing a trailer a lot easier. Of my three bikes the ebike Pugsley is the most pleasurable to ride. Keep up with the good vids dude 👍
@@Dave5843-d9m I agree! I have a BOB Ibex, Burley Coho and Burley Nomad. For narrow canal and river tow paths single wheel trailers rule! The Burley Coho is the only single wheel that fits perfectly behind the offset Pugsley. The Extrawheel Mate is another great option.
I disagree. I've owned my 500w UK version of Lectric XP (almost identical) for 6 months with 20" rims and 4" fat Kenda tyres . Yes, the geometry is upright and aimed at the older rider but with an after market £15 sprung saddle it is perfect for commuting on London's potholed roads. Fat tyres provide huge confidence on fast downhill bends plus greatly improved stopping power as all that rubber grips the road. I've ridden countless miles on gravel, forest trails, beaches, marshland and a little snow. It folds easily (got it down to 5 seconds now) and sets up the same feeling firm and secure. I've never felt safer or happier on a bike!
I have to second that. I just got my lectric 2.0 and this bike is awesome. It has everything you need. And it's foldable. This thing is built like a tank. I do agree that If you run out of battery 🔋. Peddling a 65 lb fat tire bike is going to be a problem. But then again if you plan your rides your in the clear. You can also buy a second battery if needed and switch it out. I have a kid seat in the back and take my son riding everywhere. It handles just fine. Also they came a inch down In size for the fat tire. It's 3inch for the 2.0. :)
yea i agree i got 2.0 tyres on MTB on london roads .....it all right but yea potholes is lethal ......it not lots small ones those can deal with .......there one those two inch pot holes hit em at 18mph and above on hard tail they can be lethal ..i found 1 in 3 those side roads have some lethal pot hole like 2 or more inch deep ........even more so if you one hand signalling ......ive hit couple pot holes one handed off guard either adjusting cycling gear etc etc .....
Yeah man, fatbikes and big tires are really nice to ride over all terrain like rocks and dirt and any curbs stairs etc... I don't think Johnnynerdout is just the right rider for a fatbike is all, no biggie!
Even though the handling is a little worse on E fat bikes than normal mountain bikes, the stability at higher speeds is way better and I think it would serve perfect for an all season commuter, and that is worth it to me. I dont like feeling the shakiness on thinner tires when maintaining higher speeds.
Ohh well, I just spend 2 hours looking for an ebike that fits in my trunk - foldable + fat tires ; ))) now you got me wondering ... I guess I ve to watch some of your videos to learn more about conversion and bafang motors. Thx a lot for your videos!!
I'd add: Try to find a bike with frame that has a place where you can mount the battery without destroying the balance completely. Especially full suspension bikes often have next to no room inside the frame triangle. The frame triangle is the only reasonable place to mount a heavy battery.
I got the ridstar q20 1500 Watt fat bike and it was just 1,000 dollars and already got 1400 miles on it. Had to get better tires and the tannus armour in liners for it. It's a great commute bike and gets up to 33 mph.
The electric motor kind of offsets the disadvantages of fat bike wheels and tires. Your totally right about folders and i feel that full sus has a lot of the same issues. Also 700c wheel bikes that don't have room for at least 32c tires and fenders are probably best for people who already really know what they are doing and don't need our help.
this is a very important review since I am not familiar with all bike designs. I almost bought a used folding e-bike since it looked like a quality bike, it would be easy to store/transport in my car without a bike rack (a quality bike rack is expensive), and the price for the ebike I saw for sale was reasonable. But I will be riding on roads with potholes and even dirt/gravel trails. So I will exclude those types. The fat bike I might consider because I am not using an bike for commuting and I have tall and heavy.
Continue . You are calling like it is . I just a built a E Bike Mongoose Mack . 750 watt E Drive. 52 volt battery Pac. It is taking me farther . Plus enjoying riding . I would be not Biking , If not for this new technology Not saying age is a issue . This is the reason I got back into Biking. Thank You!! I'm 54 years of age.
I second both of your opinions , with all due respect I love my full size fat bike , because it gets attention of the drivers on the road just because its huge , secondly I love my folding rad runner because its got 3.3 inch wide tires and i have taken it everywhere in my cars trunk and it can go places.
65 with bad back .. I used an Electra Townie 7D "step thru" I can touch the ground from the seat and getting off and on with the step thru is easy .. Paired with wider Kenda tires and my own seat and handlebar setup made a great cruiser/exercise bike for me ... 1000 watt Magic Pie front hub motor with 52 volt 14 Ah battery
Johnny I love your videos. I have to kindly disagree about the fat bike conversion. I put a BBSHD on my 2017 Trek Farley and I love it. I think a fat bike is the perfect bike to electrify. It helps overcome the low tire pressures off road. Pump the tires up to max psi and it goes decent down the road. The wide axle widths allow you to swap to a narrow (27.5 or 29) wheel set too. I think no other bike can be such a Jack of all trades. Keep up the great vids!
Have a Specialized Fatboy that considering putting the same setup as your. Was wondering if you could run 29 standard Mtb wheels,came off my FS Camber that has carbon hoop now. What is the process for running 29 wheels change out what components. The Fatboy has 26 x 4 wheels at present.
I agree with the advice regarding folding electric bikes I have one which was store brought. The handle bar stem snapped while I was cycling which caused me too crash hurt a bit
Yeah I make custom ebikes as a side hobby, not just upgrading a hard tail mountain bike. I find fat tires annoying for road use but 2.8 3 inches I find are both good for on and off road totally agree.
Folding bikes and fat bikes have specific purpose, if you need it get it but dont get it for the cool factor, I got a folding ebike from fiido and it's ok but not great, I did consider a fat bike but decided the downsides outweighed any advantages it might have, in the end i just converted standard full suspension mountain bikes and am very happy, comfortable enough and great range.
I put a cyc 1500 watt stealth on my old santa cruz tall boy, full suspension 29r mountain bike. Upgraded the drive train, and added a twist grip throttle. I'm 56 years old, and it's possibly the most fun toy I've ever had in my life.
I swapped 26 inch cruiser wheels with a front disk brake onto a cheapo Walmart fixie bicycle frame. Then I installed a double springer front fork and north road handle bars. It's a great stable platform with a 500 watt geared hub drive kit and a triangular 48 volt 20 amp hour battery.
Regularly riding a fat ebike, I can see where the 'pig wrestling' thought comes from. I would say after a brief learning curve, it's more like dancing with a pig- a little unwieldy, you have to put in a bit more muscle, but the end result is a combo that looks amazing, has endless grip (at as low as 5 psi), and goes wherever you want- plowing over streetcar tracks, loose rock and gravel, big cracks, etc. And it'll handle practically any amount of power that fits in a bike frame.
I definitively tell people if they need a fat bike, they should absolutely get one. Most of the people I talk to are looking for commuters though, and for that I'd recommend a hardtail mtb with up to 2.8" tires for commuting and a killer trail bike :)
You need to check out the "Change" folding bike". They are out of WA. the company name is Fatbike and it is full size folding bicycle. Looks like a regular bicycle not like the folding bicycle with only a single tube that folds.
You can add S&S couplings or scaffolding couplers to anything. They are still going to creak and rattle and require more maintenance. You aren't likely to find yourself still riding it ten years down the road either. Not if you actually use it on a regular basis.
@@MHH3180 my Change folding bike is going to be mounted on my Ural. It depends on what your using it for and what fun your having. You just have to maintain your equipment and it will pretty much last longer than yourself.
Excellent! I'm getting ready to do a diy ebike and have several old bikes I am currently restoring for a refugee center. Thanks for the help in navigating this new world of ebikes!
totally agree,if you go off road there is to much flex when you are going down pot hole filled farm tracks, this the beauty of a well built ebike you will want to explore ,any spring or flex you will end up over the handlebars
Been watching all your vlogs over the last 2 weeks since I was diagnosed with a second brain tumour after 15 years. I've bought 2 old skool mountain bike frames a Marin a Scott and a bdshd kit which would have been built today if the seller of the spacers hadn't used the cheapest post ! Hopefully this week I'll feel the power of the bdshd. Then it's in hospital on Friday for the big operation the bike will be priceless during my recovery you will have saved my life.
I've converted 2 folding bikes to ebikes, the only issue is battery placement, but can be resolved by adding mounting points for the battery on the frame or add a rear rack. All your other complaints aren't really an issue. Folding bikes, especially 16 or 14" bikes have no problems carrying into a bus or subway train. Some folders can collapse and be wheeled into stores, office, preventing theft. In my case it was to place under a table in my office and I would charge. The points where the bikes fold are made to last as those parts are made to swivel or take a lot of repetitive use. My only issue I encountered is how the stem of the handle bar folds. It gets loose from the same repeated lifting. Easy to tighten. Folding bikes have far more flexibility the a standard bike. Especially theft and when it's an ebike it's a far bigger target. You can include weight as another positive. folders are lighter.
Food for thought you guys - I’m currently finishing my first month with an e bike - self built I converted a diamond back topanga mountian bike from the 70-90s with a cyc pro x1 gen 2 motor. It’s amazing but something to keep in mind; please look for a through axel frame! My DB has a dropout frame. And that’s not really good when the pull of the motor can yank out the rim right from the frame if you didn’t tighten the lever with leverage. For peace of mind; please stick to a through axel frame design. I’ve completely lost one rim already because my rim got pulled out at 25 miles an hour up hill. -now I’m always making sure my axels are lose with every ride start to finish; if anybody knows and conversion kits from dropout to through: send them my way, please! Stay safe out there!
I'm only 5'4 150 lbs and my fat tire ebike handles great. Doesn't feel like I'm trying to wrestle a pig. It is a very big bike but handles good. I did get it for hunting and trail riding mostly but it's great for daily riding in the city too. Way more comfortable than a mountain bike
What ebike kits fit a hardtail MTB? 110mm/148mm front/rear dropout spacing, 15mm/12mm axle diameters and a 34T max chainring. The crank kits I've seen want 44T or more chainrings, motor hits the chain stay, wheel motors want you to squeeze the droputs from 148mm to 138mm and have a10mm axle.
I have had 2 fatbikes I converted to electric, the best bikes I ever had. 😁Anywhere I've taken them, they've delivered. Next is putting on semi-slicks on them. P.s. Fat tires work on the pavement, look at motorbikes 😄They suck if you have no motor, but if you do, then it's great.
I put a Bafang HD with a 52v 17ah battery on a barely used large Surly Krampus 29er and it is was everything I wanted in an E-bike. I found a medium used Surly Karate Monkey to build a bike for my wife. It had a bunch of minor paint scratches but it was inexpensive and a steel frame. I stripped the bike and decided to sand blast and repaint. I just wanted to make it pretty for my wife. I made the mistake of calling Surly to see if I could buy a new set of stickers for it somewhere. I also made the mistake of mentioning to the guy how much I loved my Krampus. The dude went crazy on me with lectures on how I am risking life and limb of others and myself using their bikes with electric mid drive motors. He is probably just a kid but I certainly am not. This guy kept at me 3-4 times with lecturing e-mails and all I wanted to do was to stop it. I am a 64 yr old retired electrical mechanical engineer who spent 45 years supporting high tech robotic equipment so I guess maybe I am a bit insulted and very aggravated. Bicycles and e-bikes are really simple straightforward machines. Only unmechanical people can make them complicated. There is so much info on line to build or fix just about anything these days if one has the motivation. I told the guy several times that I made a mistake of calling them and tried to make him understand that I wasn't looking for his advice or asking permission. I guess my only problem with the e-bike build is that it isn't really clear what frame limitations there are for suitable frame hosts. Seems like someone could make a great no compromise frame for e-bikes. Maybe they do and I haven't found it? Do you know of any frame limitations? If you have got past my ranting and that I am pissed at Surly I appreciate your indulgence. It's just the principle off it and believe me if they think they have the market cornered on (over priced steel china bikes} they are wrong. I still want to build my wife an e-bike and now I'm looking for another great frame for myself as well. I do like the 29er x 3.0 " tires and I have two great sets of 29er wheels . I have 2.5 " wide tires on the other set. I was planning on that set for the KM. Honestly that big Krampus frame is probably a little big for me and would rather have a medium something with a aggressive top tube angle for more leg and crotch clearance. I'm 5'10" and about 230lbs and a old beat up dude. A small or medium frame would be better for her with lots of leg clearance. There are so many frames to consider with all the steel , aluminum, carbon, titanium materials out there. Hardtail with or without front shocks , Full suspension ? So far I'm thinking one small and one medium. Hardtail with fixed front forks are fine. I'm not sure any shocks are worth the trouble for us especially with those huge 29er wheels and tires. Do have any suggestions for some good solid frames? I don't mind used or new and I'm looking to stay between 500 and 1000 bucks for each. It's just a me thing but I would love to get something that's made in the US or anywhere but China ...lol because the dang motor is a china product eh? If a steel bike is the best choice, there are some older US based framesets and I really like the looks of the new Canfield steel hardtails ( designed in the US but made in taiwan ...LOL again ....we're screwed. We can't even make bicycles here anymore. It's just greed I think and if one of these builders go chinese then they have to, it seems. As far as I'm concerned I would never go back to a bike without a motor if I had a choice. I love having the range and not worrying about getting back up huge hills and wind. I think the my e-bike experience is one of my favorite toys ever. Out of the garage day or night winter or summer anytime. I haven't even found a need to haul it anywhere by car. There's so much to explore right from my garage. I really love packing my fishing rod up and looking for new parts of the creeks around here. I love the accessibility of it. I've watched just about all of your video's and I really appreciate your honest opinions. There's so much who-ha B.S. on-line these days. I know from my limited e-bike experience that you tell it like it is. I wish I had all this e-bike info in the beginning. My two favorite toys for the last 3 years has been my Onewheels and my E-bike. I got burnt out chasing wind ,surf, and snow over the last 40 years . Accessibility is everything for me now. I'm glad I got to have these toys before I got too old. Thanks
I'd say that a major point why you would want a fat bike is if you live in a place where there is snow and you want or need to ride in it. I have a 27.5"+ bike and there was not enough float to ride in winter time. Wished I had a fatbike.
My Dahon Mariner D8 converted well. It has the mounting points in the right places for the battery and the motor was an easy install. My only complaint is that the bike is top heavy because of the very large battery and rack I used. Also I wish it had front and rear suspension but it is a stiff frame. Also it is pretty light weight which is a problem because if a semi-truck or large pick up truck passes me the drag force almost knocks the bike over and if I am going 30mph already that can be hard to recover from.
I’ve just gone from a full suspension fatbike to a hardtail with 2.8 tyres and can honestly say the ride is better, it feels more stable and agile, it’s lighter as well. But best of all, it’s faster!
Have you rode a quality dual.suspemsiin bike like a giant reign etc,you will notice a huge improvement and howuch power loss through fat tyre and how the rear suspension actually work instead of this,try riding your fat bike down stairs and you will know
You are making some important points. I can't really use a fat bike. The tires don't fit on the bike carrying racks on the busses either. Thanks for the great advice.
I was adding up the cost for converting my bike and it got up to 1000 dollars before shipping. Compare the price of maintaining and other unforseen happenings. And living in Juneau Alaska. I feel buying a ebike from my local awesome dealer is a better choice. All this typing and I just convinced myself and answered my own question. I'm cooking pizza. Hawaiian style add chicken.
Likewise dude. It’s kicking on canal and river paths. Great in the woods too! In my opinion, mid drive motors on fat bikes makes a lot of sense... a little help getting over the rolling resistance. 😊
The problem is that people often come back to the builder complaining about range, acceleration or top end, or all the above. This is to say nothing of the fact that fat bike frames have a lot of flex before you add a motor. If gusseted to avoid it, they're ridiculously heavy.
You built an unlicensed, un inspected, uninsured motorcycle, not a bicycle. Legally a motorvehicle. Yes, you can. No you shouldn't. Something of a distinction there, like jumping off a balcony. Can you pedal it? That defines a bicycle.
@@whazzat8015 Basically, everything from the seat post forwards on a 26" is still there, even with the front wheel removed. The Montague folds all of that back on itself, so the folded package fits into a large carry bag, and that in turn fits into the boot of even the smallest car, can be carried, can be taken on a train, popped into the luggage compartment of a small aircraft or helicopter, or boxed and posted if needed. Also takes up less space in a small home. All done within just a couple of minutes and all without needing any tools. The point being, if that is a desirable feature for what someone needs, then it works for many people. I'm not sure I agree with the logic of this video, the hard tail rear of a Paratrooper maintains a fixed hub to rear sprocket relationship, even when folded, and effectively identical to any other bike so, if a mid-motor is fitted, I cannot see how that is a problem in real terms. I am interested in this, as I own a Montague Paratrooper Pro, and am contemplating converting it. So far, I cannot really see any disadvantages in that, relative to any other non-folding bike. Indeed, the rear rack-stand is perfect for the Battery.
Ive got a nice bike to convert into electric with the bafang motor kit. My only question is, will my handle bars work with it? They are not straight but the traditional curved style.
The biggest bike in my arsenal is my Surly BFD. Yes it's a fat bike, yes it's a cargo bike, and yes the handling is something that takes getting used to. BUT the fat tires aside, it's one of those bikes that is specific to what you're looking to achieve ...like the difference between buying a F150 vs a F250(w/a 6.7 powerstroke). It is just what it is. But I'm currently in the market for getting an e-bike conversion and according to JNO's other vidz, I'm going with the Bafang Mid-Drive and NOT the Bafang Hub. Thanks JNO ;)
I’ve had a mongoose ctossway850 1995, it’s a 24.5 frame with great rake angle, I ❤️ it, thing is being a tall hefty fella, I butterflied the rear wheel doing a simple pram dip gutter, here in australia they’re like little half cups in shape. Do I go a rear wheel motor assy or mid hub drive, 7speed twist grip and STX rd m-series brakes which stop very good, moneys not really a issue, turned old 60 yr just last august, never got into bicycle engineering, I’m aero
I had a Brompton which was perfect for short trips to and from the rail station. It folded quick and was easy to carry. However, narrow handlebars, small wheels and short gear range limited its usefulness for any other purpose. More power could be dangerous and the added weight defeats its biggest advantage.. I differ on the folding electric fatbike. They are made to be put into the back of a car and will cope with the horrible roads of our cities. Drive to the edge of the city and e-bike into the office. A mountain bike is a better ride in all respects but will not go into the back of a car.
Weather more power is dangerous or not is completely up to the rider because it could easily translate into longer range instead of faster speed it's just up to you to decide and make the appropriate adjustment in your riding style
Im building a dual suspension Benotto mexican BSO into a bafang ebike. I welded on a rear rack mount to the seat tube. Added a trailer hitch, & new rear spring mounts for a bigger spring. I welded a battery mount on the top tube. That 25AH samsung Hailong didn't fit in the triangle. Suntour XCM 30s/100mm WTB 26" front Trek 28" 700C rear 6 pawl Koozer XM490 Pro, Shimano HG 28-11 7 speed cassette. Rear is bigger for top speed & because the old forks were 40-50mm and the new forks raised the head tube 2 inches. So this balanced the geometry some. Then I got 27.5" forks cause I thought I was just doing 28". Mechanical discs for now. But both rims are 32 spoke double walled. Cause I live in Detroit and need a trail bike for the roads lol. Running 2 Kenda Kwick Drumlins the rear is 700C x 45 & has the KS sheild and the front is 26 x 1.75 KS+ for puncture resistance. Should get good range. Bike should weigh 65-70lbs.
The width of the tire does create more rolling resistance but any difficulty in maintaining stability had little to do with the width. It's likely the offroad style tread (and uneven wear of the trad) caused the sensation you're experiencing, and the width most likely helped from it being worse. A road/pavement style tread would definitely fix this issue --albeit, at the expense of offroad performance. Thinner tread widths are more susceptible to tracking inconsistencies (ruts, grooves, etc.,) than a wider tire. Anyone riding a motorcycle on concrete highways (popular in California) where grooves have been pressed into the concrete can attest to this. There's a constant shifting (lateral incursions perpendicular to forward momentum) that is typically resolved by installing a wider tread.
Another complication is like my Norco Fluid HT1 (hard tail), the guy who came around to possibly convert my mountain bike with a Bafang conversion kit said the sprocket area is going to be very awkward to install the motor onto, as there is a hole under the sprocket where the rear disk brake cables exit the frame (from where they enter it up near the handle bars) and also the surface around this hole will need to be ground down a bit to get the motor to fix properly so it isn’t so low that a lot of ground clearance is lost, and this grinding away of that area might weaken the frame a bit in that place? I bought a brand new bike to do the conversion on and now I wish I had just a bought a cheap second hand hard tail with a regular frame area around the sprocket and with cables that were already routed down outside the frame 😕
I am now just considering a ‘Swytch’ bike conversion for it as it goes straight to the front wheel and doesn’t need any grinding down of the frame around the sprocket? Also it doesn’t interfere with regular pedaling of the bike when I don’t need to the electric power, whereas a Bafang motor actually introduces some resistance when only pedaling and you can’t ride the bike as freely without using the electric power?
I commute and micro tour on a fatbike. Commute is 16km each way. I've ridden the Cabot Trail (300km 4100m climbing, 3 days) on a fat bike. Not comfortable? That's just not true! Way more comfortable than my road bike... and on a 16km trip to town only 5-10 minutes slower, but way more fun. Sandy patch? Loose gravel? Rocks and other crap on the road? Dont even notice. Haha
JohnnyNerdOut I need a little help.... tore the wires coming out of rear hub motor, where to buy the set of wires, or do I just make up my own set? I think there will be 3 heavy wires... What Gauge? 1500 Watt motor.... (Voilamart hub). and maybe 5 smaller wires?? What gauge do I make these? I know the scope of this repair and well within my expertise, I just would like to know before getting to work on it, don't want to stop and go wire shopping & then come back to it. Thanks, me and my son have watched many of your Great Videos !!!
Great question, you should be able to bring the wires with you no? The phase wires are usually thicker but vary from motor to motor so I can’t give you an answer there, you will have to make it match what you currently have. It should be a pretty straightforward solder job. Just probably pretty time-consuming cracking open a motor etc.
Don't forget the RECUMBENT bike, for a simple commuter a compact long wheel base recumbent is hard to beat for comfort and range. I'm running an Easy Racers EZ-1 with a cheap 350 watt gear motor (MY1016Z3) driving the chain mid-drive. Pretty simple and reliable.
About fatbikes, i assume you live in a snowless winter but here in Canada (the frozen wasteland north of Maine and Vermont) it seams like the only sustainable option for a 4 season bike. I intend to put 3" road tires for summer though, thats seams like to be the way to make it work.
Best bikes are a good T6 alloy bike with hydraulic disc, you may have to file the rear dropouts a little from a 9mm gap to a 10mm gap and that's about it, fits some nice big washers to spread the load and keep the nuts tight. I run a 1000w rear with the shunt mod with wire instead of solder so I can go back to 30amps instead of approx 40amp, with a 55v 15ah lion battery 🔋, you get a good 35mph which takes some stopping even with disc brakes
My first e-bike was a montague folding bike. She was so slick man. I took a slide in the rain and now she is out of commission until I get a new battery pack
I have an old Mountain Cycle Shockwave that doesn't see much use anymore. Would this be an acceptable candidate for a conversion like this? Would be used mainly as a grocery getter on the back of an rv.
Yea, I am a hunter and travel miles up and down hills. I am looking for a good donor bike which is a fat bike. The question to you, I am looking at a 3K watt or 4K watt since I will have a trailer which when full of boned out elk with head will weight about 350 lbs.
My big problem with fat tire bikes is flat tires. I have a lot of them. On a bike with standard bicycle tires you can get those super thick 4mm puncture resistant tubes, then put a product called Ride-ON in them. Ride-On is made for motorcycles, mostly motorcycles with tubeless tires. But I fid it works surprisingly well on those super thick bicycle tubes. They are thick enough to not pop like a balloon when punctured, and that thickness also creates some surface area for the sealant to hold it in place. Problem is, you can't get them in sizes for those fat tire bikes. The real shame is that they are big enough to be made in a tubeless version that would work well. But that means using a tubeless rim, and that would cost a little bit more to make, so the manufacturers don't do it. I got my Radcity ebike because it had standard size bicycle tires, instead of the Radrover, which had fat tires.
I looked and don’t see a video where you mention Carbon Fiber frames. I have a mid-level carbon fiber hardtail ($3500 msrp). I am thinking about adding a BBSHD to it. Your thoughts @JohnnyNerdOut? Is there any reason I shouldn’t convert a nice carbon fiber hard-tail? If not are there any installation issues to look out for? Thanks!
Mine is 26x47/52 (2.60) does 41mph. 1500w motor. Handles like a dream. Tannus armor under velociraptor feet. The bike itself was a $599.00 amazon purchase. Lol. I leave fat bikes in the dust!😂 great video, you nailed it! 👍
No problem here. I will just keep writing down my questions as I learn enough to ask them, till I know how many I will ask, and figure the time it will take to answer those. You know how to market your time, and that should prove worth the money I spend, whereas I will need good direction. These mid drives have finally arrived. One used to have to go through hell, and high water to rig those up, but now they have them to just fit into whatever bottom bracket you have. Once battery technology catches up, these puppies will get real good. Turn the young ones onto low end power, and keep them out of all the trouble of brake neck riding, that will only make trouble for all of us.
I have a fat bike 26x4 100 mm rims and a plus size 26x2.85 on 40mm rims. And love them both. Fat bikes are most versatile of any bike imho. Can be run fat or change wheels and run 26+ 27.5+ and many also 29+ or smaller say 1.75 2.0 etc. going to commute by fatty put on slicks they work incredible off road as well. Not black diamond DH ,but sand,pea gravel walking trail ,creek crossing etc. wide handlebars totally change handling of a fat bike. 760mm or more
I’m in the process of converting a 1982 Raleigh Record ( 10 speed racing bike) with a swytch conversion and it’s not easy. The wheel supplied has 10mm axle width my forks are 8mm .They suggested I file 2 mm off the axle 😮
I'm looking for a "donor" bike now. I'm thinking about a 750 watt mid drive conversion. What do think about a medium size Trek duel suspension mountain bike? I'd like to ride payment and some easy trails, gravel, grass etc. I RV fulltime and I never know where I'll be or what type of riding I'll be doing. I'm 5'6" 29" inseam and 210lbs. Looking to invest around $200 or less for a donor bike. And using a china made conversion kit off Ali Express. What are your thoughts?
What's your take on the left side drive conversion kits for somebody working within very tight budget constraint and in desperate need of alternative Transportation mode
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
And 3rd..... Never try to convert a workout bike...!
I uhh just put some scooter wheels on mine and it works fine for me so far
(lifts welding hood) "god damn it, I told you this was stupid Jerry!"
😂
Great now you tell me , me and my peloton shot out of a fourth story window
@@justincase3230 😂😂😂
I've had a fat tire ebike for 5 years and it handles great as long as you've got the tire pressure high. On road I run typically around 30 psi and it handles similar to a motorcycle, but once you get the pressure below 15 psi, which is great for trails and loose stuff, you can really start to feel the sidewall flex when turning and it's not fun to ride on asphalt, especially at high speed.
20 psi is fine on my 4 in. stiff enough on pavement. yeah it said put ten in the tires. i could not even make a turn at that pressure.
Frankly at "overpressures" the rolling resistance and handling on pavement is really not far off from regular MTBs, I was really shocked at how high I could get the average speed even on trips of more than 20 miles. Its only 15% less than my "normal" bikes. I regularly use my unpowered fatbike that has 4.8s when i go for mixed surface trips, its totally acceptable when on the pavement during transitions and so nice on the corrugated to hell and back dirt roads. I'm not much of a off-roader so my technical routes are always fairly tame so i can't speak on that aspect with authority. Also if there's really extreme surfaces its best to have a battery powered compressor on you to quickly adjust pressure.
the trick is to keep correct inflation, anything under is bad for the tyres and your pocket.
I have a bosch gen 4 fatbike. I think it's great. On asphalt it's not the smoothest ride however since most tires have pretty aggressive tread patterns. Much smoother when riding offroad or on gravel roads. It's also awesome in the winter with studded tires. Riding on extremely slippery ice is like riding on gravel.
Absolutely… I’d say don’t get a fat bike if you life in perfectly paved flat lander city with no curbs, never plan on off road or adventure trails, don’t care about aggressive appearance…. Otherwise GET a fat tire bike 😂
I have a folding e-bike and I have almost 2000 miles on it It works great with no problems. There may be some folding bikes that would not work out as a home build however. The one I have was made to be electric.
What do you have , I need to buy an ebike ASAP and not sure what to buy , I don't need to travel with it as I'll be using it to ride on the road for exercise and everyday shopping trips , but I am just thinking that if something was to go wrong with it I have no way of getting it to a shop for repair ? You help appreciated 🙂
Yeah, pretty sure he's talking about converting a folding bike to an ebike. Not buying a folding ebike.
What model is it?
Post a video of this build Ted, I have never seen a folding bike build and would love to see yours.
@@Emilio0587....I put on bbso2 on Dahon 26 inches. Looks cool
Thanks for this one. I also just commented in one of your video on doing bike conversions and said that my project bike is a 35 yr old Bridgestone hardtail MTB. I take it out on trails and load up with my camera gear so this power assist is just to help out my 70 yr old knees without breaking the bank. I’ll update when my project comes to fruition
🎉
I have both 3" tires 27.5" wheels for summer and 4" tires 26" wheels for winter snow riding. I love my fat bike!
I have a bafang ultra on my fatbike just keep the 4" tires on it and got studded terene cake eaters for winter
Just add a bit more psi to the tires for street and they feel normal
After 2 weeks I sold my non fatbike it felt so unstable and the bar width was so much shorter I think that was the main issue
Been looking for a bike to put 3" ties on and convert. What are you riding?
My favourite part about this video is when he says "unless you need it". These aren't hard and fast rules, if you need a bike for the snow or sand, get a fat tire bike, if you need a bike for your limited space camper, get a folder.
Fantastic short video, and valid points.
I actually really appreciate that you noticed that as most people, it seems, think I condemn them blanket-style
I would add: no narrow tire bikes, say below 2" in tire width. Hitting potholes at speed requires a certain amount of tire volume.
So true!
I repeatedly popped my 2 gas "Dixie's"s with 750 (mm?) tires,and would drive on the rims back,because of the distance .
Then the tires are coming off the rims and going into bad places...
Greatest ebike channel for real information, for me. Cheers.
I love how short and to the point some of these videos are. I put a Curry Electric bike kit with a 24 volt lead acid on to my Schwinn hybrid 21 years ago. I think it is time to revisit my interest in this! Subscribed!
battery technology especially has come a long way, you might be able to make your old kit work well just by getting a new battery.
The difference is like aodel t ford vs a Ferrari ,you should try again ,lipo batterys and brushless motors have made a world of difference
Fat tires need high pressure to roll correctly, they wear right in the middle and cost much to replace.
Ok if you NEED to ride on sand or snow.
i will say after riding my DIY fatbike for now 2 years as a commuter, after changing some things it has been great. im using thinner rims that make the tire profile more round so handling isnt too bad. thou i am 6'6" and 300lbs, so i feel better on it than most MTBs. its not for everyone but its not something that should be avoided completely. also u can do 3.5" tires (currently run 4in mammoths in back, and 3.5" vee speedsters in front). handles 35mph really well especially after swapping the front fork for a doublecrown rigid fork :D
Bruhh we have a similar set up I have a downhill fork style with 3.5 speedsters on front and 4.0 vee zigzag tyre on back with two 60v dual battery s
why double crown rigid is better?
@@kazhankazhanovych6895 more rigid, less flex under heavy braking or turning, better transmittion of road feel to the bars. But be aware double crowns can stress a cheap frame with low quality welds.
I converted a free-to-me full aluminum, with shocks front and back. It was far too late to realize I should have gotten something with disc brakes and somewhere to actually put the battery and controller. It seemed a perfect coincidence until I actually started to try and get everything to fit well.
What does it look like, what does it look like. I'm trying to do the same thing just mid drive
Fat bikes with mid drives... They’re kicking on canal and river paths. Great in the woods and on mountains and hills too! I love the extra traction and confidence on rocky or shingly mountain and hill tracks (getting old... injuries don’t heal well). In my opinion, mid drive motors on fat bikes makes a lot of sense... a little help getting over the rolling resistance. 😊 also makes my Surly Pugsley towing a trailer a lot easier. Of my three bikes the ebike Pugsley is the most pleasurable to ride. Keep up with the good vids dude 👍
Bob trailers are expensive but single wheel trailers are the best bet for bike towing.
@@Dave5843-d9m I agree! I have a BOB Ibex, Burley Coho and Burley Nomad. For narrow canal and river tow paths single wheel trailers rule! The Burley Coho is the only single wheel that fits perfectly behind the offset Pugsley. The Extrawheel Mate is another great option.
I disagree. I've owned my 500w UK version of Lectric XP (almost identical) for 6 months with 20" rims and 4" fat Kenda tyres . Yes, the geometry is upright and aimed at the older rider but with an after market £15 sprung saddle it is perfect for commuting on London's potholed roads. Fat tyres provide huge confidence on fast downhill bends plus greatly improved stopping power as all that rubber grips the road. I've ridden countless miles on gravel, forest trails, beaches, marshland and a little snow. It folds easily (got it down to 5 seconds now) and sets up the same feeling firm and secure. I've never felt safer or happier on a bike!
I have to second that. I just got my lectric 2.0 and this bike is awesome. It has everything you need. And it's foldable. This thing is built like a tank. I do agree that If you run out of battery 🔋. Peddling a 65 lb fat tire bike is going to be a problem. But then again if you plan your rides your in the clear. You can also buy a second battery if needed and switch it out. I have a kid seat in the back and take my son riding everywhere. It handles just fine. Also they came a inch down In size for the fat tire. It's 3inch for the 2.0. :)
yea i agree i got 2.0 tyres on MTB on london roads .....it all right but yea potholes is lethal ......it not lots small ones those can deal with .......there one those two inch pot holes hit em at 18mph and above on hard tail they can be lethal ..i found 1 in 3 those side roads have some lethal pot hole like 2 or more inch deep ........even more so if you one hand signalling ......ive hit couple pot holes one handed off guard either adjusting cycling gear etc etc .....
Yeah man, fatbikes and big tires are really nice to ride over all terrain like rocks and dirt and any curbs stairs etc... I don't think Johnnynerdout is just the right rider for a fatbike is all, no biggie!
Even though the handling is a little worse on E fat bikes than normal mountain bikes, the stability at higher speeds is way better and I think it would serve perfect for an all season commuter, and that is worth it to me. I dont like feeling the shakiness on thinner tires when maintaining higher speeds.
Ohh well, I just spend 2 hours looking for an ebike that fits in my trunk - foldable + fat tires ; )))
now you got me wondering ...
I guess I ve to watch some of your videos to learn more about conversion and bafang motors.
Thx a lot for your videos!!
If that foldable e-fat-bike is Danish, go for it!
I'd add: Try to find a bike with frame that has a place where you can mount the battery without destroying the balance completely. Especially full suspension bikes often have next to no room inside the frame triangle. The frame triangle is the only reasonable place to mount a heavy battery.
I got the ridstar q20 1500 Watt fat bike and it was just 1,000 dollars and already got 1400 miles on it. Had to get better tires and the tannus armour in liners for it. It's a great commute bike and gets up to 33 mph.
The electric motor kind of offsets the disadvantages of fat bike wheels and tires. Your totally right about folders and i feel that full sus has a lot of the same issues. Also 700c wheel bikes that don't have room for at least 32c tires and fenders are probably best for people who already really know what they are doing and don't need our help.
this is a very important review since I am not familiar with all bike designs. I almost bought a used folding e-bike since it looked like a quality bike, it would be easy to store/transport in my car without a bike rack (a quality bike rack is expensive), and the price for the ebike I saw for sale was reasonable. But I will be riding on roads with potholes and even dirt/gravel trails. So I will exclude those types. The fat bike I might consider because I am not using an bike for commuting and I have tall and heavy.
Continue . You are calling like it is . I just a built a E Bike Mongoose Mack . 750 watt E Drive. 52 volt battery Pac. It is taking me farther . Plus enjoying riding . I would be not Biking , If not for this new technology Not saying age is a issue . This is the reason I got back into Biking. Thank You!! I'm 54 years of age.
Riding perhaps, but if you are not pedaling, it ain't biking.
Seriously, with that set up it's a motorcycle.
I second both of your opinions , with all due respect I love my full size fat bike , because it gets attention of the drivers on the road just because its huge , secondly I love my folding rad runner because its got 3.3 inch wide tires and i have taken it everywhere in my cars trunk and it can go places.
65 with bad back .. I used an Electra Townie 7D "step thru" I can touch the ground from the seat and getting off and on with the step thru is easy .. Paired with wider Kenda tires and my own seat and handlebar setup made a great cruiser/exercise bike for me ... 1000 watt Magic Pie front hub motor with 52 volt 14 Ah battery
Those are incredible with a torque sensing mid-drive.
Where can we see it.
I Forget I have Goggle
Johnny I love your videos. I have to kindly disagree about the fat bike conversion. I put a BBSHD on my 2017 Trek Farley and I love it. I think a fat bike is the perfect bike to electrify. It helps overcome the low tire pressures off road. Pump the tires up to max psi and it goes decent down the road. The wide axle widths allow you to swap to a narrow (27.5 or 29) wheel set too. I think no other bike can be such a Jack of all trades. Keep up the great vids!
This was meant for first timers mainly. Everyone should have a fat bike in their stable.
Have a Specialized Fatboy that considering putting the same setup as your. Was wondering if you could run 29 standard Mtb wheels,came off my FS Camber that has carbon hoop now. What is the process for running 29 wheels change out what components. The Fatboy has 26 x 4 wheels at present.
Can I put a BAFANGO on a single gear (BMX)??.
I agree with the advice regarding folding electric bikes I have one which was store brought. The handle bar stem snapped while I was cycling which caused me too crash hurt a bit
Yeah I make custom ebikes as a side hobby, not just upgrading a hard tail mountain bike. I find fat tires annoying for road use but 2.8 3 inches I find are both good for on and off road totally agree.
I have been riding skinny tires off road for years.A fat tire sucks up a lot of energy with little rewards to overcome the energy consumption.
A friend of mine had a business selling a brand of e-bike and his most popular model was a folding 20 inch. Lotsa fun in the city sans potholes.
Folding bikes and fat bikes have specific purpose, if you need it get it but dont get it for the cool factor,
I got a folding ebike from fiido and it's ok but not great, I did consider a fat bike but decided the downsides outweighed any advantages it might have, in the end i just converted standard full suspension mountain bikes and am very happy, comfortable enough and great range.
I put a cyc 1500 watt stealth on my old santa cruz tall boy, full suspension 29r mountain bike. Upgraded the drive train, and added a twist grip throttle. I'm 56 years old, and it's possibly the most fun toy I've ever had in my life.
Thank you for explaining why the “loaner” is so squirrely in turns, and feels unstable at speeds above 12 miles an hour!
Had that experience with a $100 steel solid Walmart bike. A $1000 folding Tern should be fine.
I swapped 26 inch cruiser wheels with a front disk brake onto a cheapo Walmart fixie bicycle frame. Then I installed a double springer front fork and north road handle bars. It's a great stable platform with a 500 watt geared hub drive kit and a triangular 48 volt 20 amp hour battery.
Regularly riding a fat ebike, I can see where the 'pig wrestling' thought comes from. I would say after a brief learning curve, it's more like dancing with a pig- a little unwieldy, you have to put in a bit more muscle, but the end result is a combo that looks amazing, has endless grip (at as low as 5 psi), and goes wherever you want- plowing over streetcar tracks, loose rock and gravel, big cracks, etc. And it'll handle practically any amount of power that fits in a bike frame.
I definitively tell people if they need a fat bike, they should absolutely get one. Most of the people I talk to are looking for commuters though, and for that I'd recommend a hardtail mtb with up to 2.8" tires for commuting and a killer trail bike :)
@@JohnnyNerdOut commuters need to carry stuff, it can be hard to fit a rack or fenders on mtbs.
You need to check out the "Change" folding bike". They are out of WA. the company name is Fatbike and it is full size folding bicycle. Looks like a regular bicycle not like the folding bicycle with only a single tube that folds.
You can add S&S couplings or scaffolding couplers to anything. They are still going to creak and rattle and require more maintenance. You aren't likely to find yourself still riding it ten years down the road either. Not if you actually use it on a regular basis.
@@MHH3180 my Change folding bike is going to be mounted on my Ural. It depends on what your using it for and what fun your having. You just have to maintain your equipment and it will pretty much last longer than yourself.
Excellent! I'm getting ready to do a diy ebike and have several old bikes I am currently restoring for a refugee center.
Thanks for the help in navigating this new world of ebikes!
I just put a Swytch kit on my 24 in folding tern node. It works great. Yes I did need to MacGyver a couple things. It works great.
totally agree,if you go off road there is to much flex when you are going down pot hole filled farm tracks, this the beauty of a well built ebike you will want to explore ,any spring or flex you will end up over the handlebars
Been watching all your vlogs over the last 2 weeks since I was diagnosed with a second brain tumour after 15 years. I've bought 2 old skool mountain bike frames a Marin a Scott and a bdshd kit which would have been built today if the seller of the spacers hadn't used the cheapest post ! Hopefully this week I'll feel the power of the bdshd. Then it's in hospital on Friday for the big operation the bike will be priceless during my recovery you will have saved my life.
Keep biking and get well soon. Enjoy life.
god bless!!!
I hope your operation went well and you can enjoy the bike rides!
I've converted 2 folding bikes to ebikes, the only issue is battery placement, but can be resolved by adding mounting points for the battery on the frame or add a rear rack. All your other complaints aren't really an issue. Folding bikes, especially 16 or 14" bikes have no problems carrying into a bus or subway train. Some folders can collapse and be wheeled into stores, office, preventing theft. In my case it was to place under a table in my office and I would charge. The points where the bikes fold are made to last as those parts are made to swivel or take a lot of repetitive use. My only issue I encountered is how the stem of the handle bar folds. It gets loose from the same repeated lifting. Easy to tighten. Folding bikes have far more flexibility the a standard bike. Especially theft and when it's an ebike it's a far bigger target. You can include weight as another positive. folders are lighter.
Don't forget the DISK BRAKES! .... a must IMO
Depends on the system. Some rim brakes work better than some disc brake systems ☝️
Food for thought you guys - I’m currently finishing my first month with an e bike - self built I converted a diamond back topanga mountian bike from the 70-90s with a cyc pro x1 gen 2 motor. It’s amazing but something to keep in mind; please look for a through axel frame! My DB has a dropout frame. And that’s not really good when the pull of the motor can yank out the rim right from the frame if you didn’t tighten the lever with leverage. For peace of mind; please stick to a through axel frame design. I’ve completely lost one rim already because my rim got pulled out at 25 miles an hour up hill.
-now I’m always making sure my axels are lose with every ride start to finish; if anybody knows and conversion kits from dropout to through: send them my way, please!
Stay safe out there!
I'm only 5'4 150 lbs and my fat tire ebike handles great. Doesn't feel like I'm trying to wrestle a pig. It is a very big bike but handles good. I did get it for hunting and trail riding mostly but it's great for daily riding in the city too. Way more comfortable than a mountain bike
I like wrestling pigs lol. Dream built though is to put a BBSHD on a standard full suspension Stumpjumper. 10Ah battery to keep the weight down.
pig wrastler eh?
What ebike kits fit a hardtail MTB? 110mm/148mm front/rear dropout spacing, 15mm/12mm axle diameters and a 34T max chainring. The crank kits I've seen want 44T or more chainrings, motor hits the chain stay, wheel motors want you to squeeze the droputs from 148mm to 138mm and have a10mm axle.
I agree. Get a Day 6! They’re so cool!
I have had 2 fatbikes I converted to electric, the best bikes I ever had. 😁Anywhere I've taken them, they've delivered. Next is putting on semi-slicks on them. P.s. Fat tires work on the pavement, look at motorbikes 😄They suck if you have no motor, but if you do, then it's great.
I put a Bafang HD with a 52v 17ah battery on a barely used large Surly Krampus 29er and it is was everything I wanted in an E-bike. I found a medium used Surly Karate Monkey to build a bike for my wife. It had a bunch of minor paint scratches but it was inexpensive and a steel frame. I stripped the bike and decided to sand blast and repaint. I just wanted to make it pretty for my wife.
I made the mistake of calling Surly to see if I could buy a new set of stickers for it somewhere. I also made the mistake of mentioning to the guy how much I loved my Krampus. The dude went crazy on me with lectures on how I am risking life and limb of others and myself using their bikes with electric mid drive motors. He is probably just a kid but I certainly am not. This guy kept at me 3-4 times with lecturing e-mails and all I wanted to do was to stop it. I am a 64 yr old retired electrical mechanical engineer who spent 45 years supporting high tech robotic equipment so I guess maybe I am a bit insulted and very aggravated. Bicycles and e-bikes are really simple straightforward machines. Only unmechanical people can make them complicated. There is so much info on line to build or fix just about anything these days if one has the motivation. I told the guy several times that I made a mistake of calling them and tried to make him understand that I wasn't looking for his advice or asking permission.
I guess my only problem with the e-bike build is that it isn't really clear what frame limitations there are for suitable frame hosts. Seems like someone could make a great no compromise frame for e-bikes. Maybe they do and I haven't found it? Do you know of any frame limitations?
If you have got past my ranting and that I am pissed at Surly I appreciate your indulgence. It's just the principle off it and believe me if they think they have the market cornered on (over priced steel china bikes} they are wrong.
I still want to build my wife an e-bike and now I'm looking for another great frame for myself as well. I do like the 29er x 3.0 " tires and I have two great sets of 29er wheels . I have 2.5 " wide tires on the other set.
I was planning on that set for the KM.
Honestly that big Krampus frame is probably a little big for me and would rather have a medium something with a aggressive top tube angle for more leg and crotch clearance. I'm 5'10" and about 230lbs and a old beat up dude. A small or medium frame would be better for her with lots of leg clearance. There are so many frames to consider with all the steel , aluminum, carbon, titanium materials out there. Hardtail with or without front shocks , Full suspension ? So far I'm thinking one small and one medium. Hardtail with fixed front forks are fine. I'm not sure any shocks are worth the trouble for us especially with those huge 29er wheels and tires. Do have any suggestions for some good solid frames? I don't mind used or new and I'm looking to stay between 500 and 1000 bucks for each. It's just a me thing but I would love to get something that's made in the US or anywhere but China ...lol because the dang motor is a china product eh?
If a steel bike is the best choice, there are some older US based framesets and I really like the looks of the new Canfield steel hardtails ( designed in the US but made in taiwan ...LOL again ....we're screwed. We can't even make bicycles here anymore. It's just greed I think and if one of these builders go chinese then they have to, it seems.
As far as I'm concerned I would never go back to a bike without a motor if I had a choice. I love having the range and not worrying about getting back up huge hills and wind. I think the my e-bike experience is one of my favorite toys ever. Out of the garage day or night winter or summer anytime. I haven't even found a need to haul it anywhere by car. There's so much to explore right from my garage. I really love packing my fishing rod up and looking for new parts of the creeks around here. I love the accessibility of it.
I've watched just about all of your video's and I really appreciate your honest opinions. There's so much who-ha B.S. on-line these days. I know from my limited e-bike experience that you tell it like it is. I wish I had all this e-bike info in the beginning.
My two favorite toys for the last 3 years has been my Onewheels and my E-bike. I got burnt out chasing wind ,surf, and snow over the last 40 years . Accessibility is everything for me now. I'm glad I got to have these toys before I got too old.
Thanks
Well said! 🙂 I'm there.
With the folding bikes, it allows you to get onto a train or bus and also gives good range.
I’m 245 pounds what bike do you recommend purchasing ?
I'd say that a major point why you would want a fat bike is if you live in a place where there is snow and you want or need to ride in it. I have a 27.5"+ bike and there was not enough float to ride in winter time. Wished I had a fatbike.
My Dahon Mariner D8 converted well. It has the mounting points in the right places for the battery and the motor was an easy install. My only complaint is that the bike is top heavy because of the very large battery and rack I used. Also I wish it had front and rear suspension but it is a stiff frame. Also it is pretty light weight which is a problem because if a semi-truck or large pick up truck passes me the drag force almost knocks the bike over and if I am going 30mph already that can be hard to recover from.
I’ve just gone from a full suspension fatbike to a hardtail with 2.8 tyres and can honestly say the ride is better, it feels more stable and agile, it’s lighter as well. But best of all, it’s faster!
Have you rode a quality dual.suspemsiin bike like a giant reign etc,you will notice a huge improvement and howuch power loss through fat tyre and how the rear suspension actually work instead of this,try riding your fat bike down stairs and you will know
You are making some important points. I can't really use a fat bike. The tires don't fit on the bike carrying racks on the busses either. Thanks for the great advice.
I was adding up the cost for converting my bike and it got up to 1000 dollars before shipping. Compare the price of maintaining and other unforseen happenings. And living in Juneau Alaska. I feel buying a ebike from my local awesome dealer is a better choice. All this typing and I just convinced myself and answered my own question. I'm cooking pizza. Hawaiian style add chicken.
that's the thing, you really should try it without chicken
The first bike I ever put a BBSHD motor on was a fat bike. I loved it and and had guys lined up to buy it!
Likewise dude. It’s kicking on canal and river paths. Great in the woods too! In my opinion, mid drive motors on fat bikes makes a lot of sense... a little help getting over the rolling resistance. 😊
The problem is that people often come back to the builder complaining about range, acceleration or top end, or all the above. This is to say nothing of the fact that fat bike frames have a lot of flex before you add a motor. If gusseted to avoid it, they're ridiculously heavy.
You built an unlicensed, un inspected, uninsured motorcycle, not a bicycle. Legally a motorvehicle.
Yes, you can. No you shouldn't. Something of a distinction there, like jumping off a balcony.
Can you pedal it? That defines a bicycle.
I had a Montague folding bike. With a Bafang mid-drive, worked for me.
I would'nt call that a foldie, it's a collapsible.
What would you say are its advantages over just popping off the front wheel of a 26"bike?
@@whazzat8015 Basically, everything from the seat post forwards on a 26" is still there, even with the front wheel removed. The Montague folds all of that back on itself, so the folded package fits into a large carry bag, and that in turn fits into the boot of even the smallest car, can be carried, can be taken on a train, popped into the luggage compartment of a small aircraft or helicopter, or boxed and posted if needed. Also takes up less space in a small home. All done within just a couple of minutes and all without needing any tools.
The point being, if that is a desirable feature for what someone needs, then it works for many people.
I'm not sure I agree with the logic of this video, the hard tail rear of a Paratrooper maintains a fixed hub to rear sprocket relationship, even when folded, and effectively identical to any other bike so, if a mid-motor is fitted, I cannot see how that is a problem in real terms.
I am interested in this, as I own a Montague Paratrooper Pro, and am contemplating converting it. So far, I cannot really see any disadvantages in that, relative to any other non-folding bike. Indeed, the rear rack-stand is perfect for the Battery.
Ive got a nice bike to convert into electric with the bafang motor kit. My only question is, will my handle bars work with it? They are not straight but the traditional curved style.
The biggest bike in my arsenal is my Surly BFD. Yes it's a fat bike, yes it's a cargo bike, and yes the handling is something that takes getting used to. BUT the fat tires aside, it's one of those bikes that is specific to what you're looking to achieve ...like the difference between buying a F150 vs a F250(w/a 6.7 powerstroke). It is just what it is. But I'm currently in the market for getting an e-bike conversion and according to JNO's other vidz, I'm going with the Bafang Mid-Drive and NOT the Bafang Hub. Thanks JNO ;)
Fat guy on a fat bike,Priceless ! I'm thinking Harley riders might take offense 🤔
I’ve had a mongoose ctossway850 1995, it’s a 24.5 frame with great rake angle, I ❤️ it, thing is being a tall hefty fella, I butterflied the rear wheel doing a simple pram dip gutter, here in australia they’re like little half cups in shape. Do I go a rear wheel motor assy or mid hub drive, 7speed twist grip and STX rd m-series brakes which stop very good, moneys not really a issue, turned old 60 yr just last august, never got into bicycle engineering, I’m aero
I just added a mid drive to a fully suspended long wheel base recumbent. So comfortable
The one on Johnny's website right now looks amazing , but I'm too short for it.
Made me laugh so hard my pocket protector fell off!
Wish I'd watched this before I got a folding fat bike to convert lol🤣😂🤣
🤦
I gotta have that rear suspension, I'm 65 and my back shows it.
You should check out a more upright bike like Day6 bikes. 😀
I hear that! Planks, planks, planks, and lots of lower body stretches. Your back and core will thank you.
Also Carbon fiber Frames won't go well with Bafang middrives.
Doh.
I had a Brompton which was perfect for short trips to and from the rail station. It folded quick and was easy to carry. However, narrow handlebars, small wheels and short gear range limited its usefulness for any other purpose. More power could be dangerous and the added weight defeats its biggest advantage..
I differ on the folding electric fatbike. They are made to be put into the back of a car and will cope with the horrible roads of our cities. Drive to the edge of the city and e-bike into the office. A mountain bike is a better ride in all respects but will not go into the back of a car.
I'd agree on most folding bikes, but the electric Brompton is a great bike.
Weather more power is dangerous or not is completely up to the rider because it could easily translate into longer range instead of faster speed it's just up to you to decide and make the appropriate adjustment in your riding style
Too late...I have done two of them. Tern Si8 and Eclipse. Love them.
Yup, as soon as he said folding bikes have weird geometry I thought what about Tern…
Im building a dual suspension Benotto mexican BSO into a bafang ebike. I welded on a rear rack mount to the seat tube. Added a trailer hitch, & new rear spring mounts for a bigger spring. I welded a battery mount on the top tube. That 25AH samsung Hailong didn't fit in the triangle. Suntour XCM 30s/100mm WTB 26" front Trek 28" 700C rear 6 pawl Koozer XM490 Pro, Shimano HG 28-11 7 speed cassette. Rear is bigger for top speed & because the old forks were 40-50mm and the new forks raised the head tube 2 inches. So this balanced the geometry some. Then I got 27.5" forks cause I thought I was just doing 28". Mechanical discs for now. But both rims are 32 spoke double walled. Cause I live in Detroit and need a trail bike for the roads lol. Running 2 Kenda Kwick Drumlins the rear is 700C x 45 & has the KS sheild and the front is 26 x 1.75 KS+ for puncture resistance. Should get good range. Bike should weigh 65-70lbs.
The width of the tire does create more rolling resistance but any difficulty in maintaining stability had little to do with the width. It's likely the offroad style tread (and uneven wear of the trad) caused the sensation you're experiencing, and the width most likely helped from it being worse. A road/pavement style tread would definitely fix this issue --albeit, at the expense of offroad performance. Thinner tread widths are more susceptible to tracking inconsistencies (ruts, grooves, etc.,) than a wider tire. Anyone riding a motorcycle on concrete highways (popular in California) where grooves have been pressed into the concrete can attest to this. There's a constant shifting (lateral incursions perpendicular to forward momentum) that is typically resolved by installing a wider tread.
Another complication is like my Norco Fluid HT1 (hard tail), the guy who came around to possibly convert my mountain bike with a Bafang conversion kit said the sprocket area is going to be very awkward to install the motor onto, as there is a hole under the sprocket where the rear disk brake cables exit the frame (from where they enter it up near the handle bars) and also the surface around this hole will need to be ground down a bit to get the motor to fix properly so it isn’t so low that a lot of ground clearance is lost, and this grinding away of that area might weaken the frame a bit in that place? I bought a brand new bike to do the conversion on and now I wish I had just a bought a cheap second hand hard tail with a regular frame area around the sprocket and with cables that were already routed down outside the frame 😕
I am now just considering a ‘Swytch’ bike conversion for it as it goes straight to the front wheel and doesn’t need any grinding down of the frame around the sprocket? Also it doesn’t interfere with regular pedaling of the bike when I don’t need to the electric power, whereas a Bafang motor actually introduces some resistance when only pedaling and you can’t ride the bike as freely without using the electric power?
I commute and micro tour on a fatbike. Commute is 16km each way. I've ridden the Cabot Trail (300km 4100m climbing, 3 days) on a fat bike. Not comfortable? That's just not true! Way more comfortable than my road bike... and on a 16km trip to town only 5-10 minutes slower, but way more fun. Sandy patch? Loose gravel? Rocks and other crap on the road? Dont even notice. Haha
JohnnyNerdOut I need a little help.... tore the wires coming out of rear hub motor, where to buy the set of wires, or do I just make up my own set? I think there will be 3 heavy wires... What Gauge? 1500 Watt motor.... (Voilamart hub). and maybe 5 smaller wires?? What gauge do I make these? I know the scope of this repair and well within my expertise, I just would like to know before getting to work on it, don't want to stop and go wire shopping & then come back to it. Thanks, me and my son have watched many of your Great Videos !!!
Great question, you should be able to bring the wires with you no? The phase wires are usually thicker but vary from motor to motor so I can’t give you an answer there, you will have to make it match what you currently have. It should be a pretty straightforward solder job. Just probably pretty time-consuming cracking open a motor etc.
I would solicit your opinion in keeping the three front chain rings with a bafang 250w mid drive
Don't forget the RECUMBENT bike, for a simple commuter a compact long wheel base recumbent is hard to beat for comfort and range. I'm running an Easy Racers EZ-1 with a cheap 350 watt gear motor (MY1016Z3) driving the chain mid-drive. Pretty simple and reliable.
About fatbikes, i assume you live in a snowless winter but here in Canada (the frozen wasteland north of Maine and Vermont) it seams like the only sustainable option for a 4 season bike. I intend to put 3" road tires for summer though, thats seams like to be the way to make it work.
Best bikes are a good T6 alloy bike with hydraulic disc, you may have to file the rear dropouts a little from a 9mm gap to a 10mm gap and that's about it, fits some nice big washers to spread the load and keep the nuts tight. I run a 1000w rear with the shunt mod with wire instead of solder so I can go back to 30amps instead of approx 40amp, with a 55v 15ah lion battery 🔋, you get a good 35mph which takes some stopping even with disc brakes
My first e-bike was a montague folding bike. She was so slick man. I took a slide in the rain and now she is out of commission until I get a new battery pack
I have an old Mountain Cycle Shockwave that doesn't see much use anymore. Would this be an acceptable candidate for a conversion like this? Would be used mainly as a grocery getter on the back of an rv.
Yea, I am a hunter and travel miles up and down hills. I am looking for a good donor bike which is a fat bike. The question to you, I am looking at a 3K watt or 4K watt since I will have a trailer which when full of boned out elk with head will weight about 350 lbs.
Was going to get a fat e-bike. Now I know better. A good hybrid-crossover mountain/road is probably the best for most people.
My big problem with fat tire bikes is flat tires. I have a lot of them. On a bike with standard bicycle tires you can get those super thick 4mm puncture resistant tubes, then put a product called Ride-ON in them. Ride-On is made for motorcycles, mostly motorcycles with tubeless tires. But I fid it works surprisingly well on those super thick bicycle tubes. They are thick enough to not pop like a balloon when punctured, and that thickness also creates some surface area for the sealant to hold it in place. Problem is, you can't get them in sizes for those fat tire bikes. The real shame is that they are big enough to be made in a tubeless version that would work well. But that means using a tubeless rim, and that would cost a little bit more to make, so the manufacturers don't do it. I got my Radcity ebike because it had standard size bicycle tires, instead of the Radrover, which had fat tires.
Any recs for a flywheel single speed 700c bike that's more low profile? Any pitfalls to the install? Thanks in advance and great vid.
I looked and don’t see a video where you mention Carbon Fiber frames. I have a mid-level carbon fiber hardtail ($3500 msrp). I am thinking about adding a BBSHD to it. Your thoughts @JohnnyNerdOut? Is there any reason I shouldn’t convert a nice carbon fiber hard-tail? If not are there any installation issues to look out for? Thanks!
If you search my channel for carbon fiber it should be the only video 👍
Mine is 26x47/52 (2.60) does 41mph. 1500w motor. Handles like a dream. Tannus armor under velociraptor feet. The bike itself was a $599.00 amazon purchase. Lol. I leave fat bikes in the dust!😂 great video, you nailed it! 👍
What about beach cruisers? Which are okay, which to avoid?
The other type that is tricky are Dutch style bikes with drum brakes. You would need to fabricate new rim brake mountings.
Would love to see a review of BikTrix mid drive.
No problem here. I will just keep writing down my questions as I learn enough to ask them, till I know how many I will ask, and figure the time it will take to answer those. You know how to market your time, and that should prove worth the money I spend, whereas I will need good direction. These mid drives have finally arrived. One used to have to go through hell, and high water to rig those up, but now they have them to just fit into whatever bottom bracket you have. Once battery technology catches up, these puppies will get real good. Turn the young ones onto low end power, and keep them out of all the trouble of brake neck riding, that will only make trouble for all of us.
Very good advice on folding bikes ! I notice that most people who buy them quickly want to sell them ! .
Bought a GT aggressor pro and a motor kit. Made an awesome e bike. Running 2.0 tires great for thestreet
Being an owner of a fat bike, I can say that you will dislike the lack of nimble steering. It takes a city block to turn, just like a chopper.
Would you think that an old Trek Hybrid Bike with 700c (32 inch) road wheels with flat handle bars make a good bike for converting into an E-Bike ?
Great advice. I wondered about building ebikes for both of these.
I have a fat bike 26x4 100 mm rims and a plus size 26x2.85 on 40mm rims. And love them both. Fat bikes are most versatile of any bike imho. Can be run fat or change wheels and run 26+ 27.5+ and many also 29+ or smaller say 1.75 2.0 etc. going to commute by fatty put on slicks they work incredible off road as well. Not black diamond DH ,but sand,pea gravel walking trail ,creek crossing etc. wide handlebars totally change handling of a fat bike. 760mm or more
I’m in the process of converting a 1982 Raleigh Record ( 10 speed racing bike) with a swytch conversion and it’s not easy.
The wheel supplied has 10mm axle width my forks are 8mm .They suggested I file 2 mm off the axle 😮
I'm looking for a "donor" bike now. I'm thinking about a 750 watt mid drive conversion. What do think about a medium size Trek duel suspension mountain bike? I'd like to ride payment and some easy trails, gravel, grass etc. I RV fulltime and I never know where I'll be or what type of riding I'll be doing. I'm 5'6" 29" inseam and 210lbs. Looking to invest around $200 or less for a donor bike. And using a china made conversion kit off Ali Express. What are your thoughts?
What's your take on the left side drive conversion kits for somebody working within very tight budget constraint and in desperate need of alternative Transportation mode
I have a full suspension 27.5 MTB that I was thinking about converting. Why do you prefer hard tail?
Interesting idea about fat bikes. Any opinion on these cafe style racers?
In your experience will three inch fat tires fit on a typical 29 inch mountain bike or cruiser style hybrid?