[EN] How to know the grade of an ETA movement?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2020
- Welcome to the CHRONO TALK channel!
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On this episode I explain more directly how to identify what grade (Standard, Elaboré, Top or Chronometer) is an ETA (or Sellita) movement by inspecting it visually.
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Images used on the videos are either mine, or from press-kits from the brands, or sourced from the web, and are used for educational purposes. All rights reserved to their owners. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[EN] ETA or Sellita movements? Do you know what are they and what are the differences?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P6IauhuBhvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[EN] ETA or Sellita movements? Do you know what are they and what are the differences?](/img/tr.png)
![[EN] The ETA (and Sellita) movement grades compared, in details - Part 1/2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ysvRJv6oLcc/mqdefault.jpg)
![เจอประจำ ตอน เปิดเทอมวันแรก [EP.29]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFK-B836i60/mqdefault.jpg)
Now it's crystal clear! Brillint explanation. Thanks!
Thank you for a brilliant explanation.
Thank you, Sir. Nicely explained.
Simply amazing!!
I enjoyed that video, I do have some semi exotic Swiss and find them excellently built. I am hoping when I visit my brother in St Gallen in next few months to grab some Swiss tours etc.
Agora que descobri voce aqui, vou assistir todos
Thanks for the clear video.
Thank you for this. Very helpful indeed.
The shape of the balance wheel is very clear from your upside down photos, but when the very small wheel is in-situ inside the watch, and partially hidden by its bridge, and it is oscillating fast, I cannot make out the shape - I guess I will need to let the spring run out, and try again then.
Nice job! Thanks. For some models, the top & chrono grades use ruby jewels, while the std and elabore use polyruby. Can one tell the difference visually? Is there a performance difference?
Cheers.
Advising us at 4:00 minutes how to tell if we have a Premium or COSC movement is by the marking CHRONOMETER or the fact you have bought a top grade watch, is rather simplistic.
Also if the fake makers put a Glucydur wheel in the correct watch version, then we may still not know that it is fake
Realy need more movements and based on modern tech as I don't like to own watches with the same movements, only so many 2824. 2892 , Seiko NH30 and such. It's why I try to get different movements. Have a cosc grade Vostok and Orient (I feel Orient movements are better than Seiko 21600bph)
But I would never get a powermatic 80
It's a shame that Tudor is now using normal Stellita rather than modified eta.
I ordered about a dozen Squale GMT and it was advertised as a SW330, I cherry picked one and opened the case back , it had a top or cosc grade decorated movement and was a newer higher power reserve SW330-1 /2. I checked another and it had a standard...
No idea if they had a shortage or if it was an accident but the watch was already about the same price as the movement at retail it's now more than the movement.
I have had issues with the ETA 2824 and I find the SW200 seems to have even more issues / failure rate.
I don't understand why more expensive brands just use the 2892 / SW300. I find no difference in quality and they are much better. Less rotor noise. No handwinding problems and are usually more accurate plus the watch can have a thinner case.
Some of the ETA 2824 modded movements with a free sprung balance are the most accurate movements ever made.
A good batch of HK-PT5000 or Hangzhou 6300 (Chinese ETA 2824-2 )clones. I have had much better luck with them over standard ETAs and much more than Stellitas.
More accurate and no handwinding problems.
But seagull and peacock also make clones that are worse and are sold as.
They are both Stellita based but the seagul has no oil most of the time and the peacocks QC is bad.
STP movements use seagull and I would not be surprised if both ETA and Stellita use alot if Chinese parts.
I feel for 3rd party movements the Miyota 9000 series is amazing the 9015, 9039 no date and especially 9075 GMT.
It's the first ground up movement design available for a 3rd party for a long time.
Many micro brands have moved and with a properly oiled rotor and regulation it's a 4hz that's nearly as thin as a 2892 and as accurate as a 2824 standard but cheaper.
Even Swiss brands have modified them.
Clear and also for which brands which grade is applied
Could you do ones of these for the C07 and A31 movements
What about eta Nivachron (titanium alloy) hair springs?
Very good!
Material TOP!!!
very good video.
Very helpful.
Excellent
actually, this was pretty good
Tag heuer calibre 5 sellita que nivel de terminacion lleva ?
Excelente video
I agree with D.H. for the Sellita movements according to their technical brochure the balance wheels on all grades (Standard, Special, Premium and Chronometer) are "Gilt." Which I assume means they are all nickel. Thus according to the brochure, the Premium and Chronometer grades can therefore only be identified by having Incabloc shock protection and Red Ruby jewels. The Standard and Special, by having Novodiac shock protection and Polyruby jewels. So at least with the Sellita movements, assuming watch manufactures can and do specify Incabloc shock protection for the lower grade movements (which is likely); then the only way to tell if a Sellita movement is a Premium movement is if one is able to tell the difference between a Red Ruby and a Polyruby. I searched the internet, high and low, and I was not able to find anything on this- so I suspect absent some sort of microscopic or chemical test, there is no way to tell those two materials apart. I was curious what grade movement is housed in my Alpina Startimer GMT. No matter the grade, it has proven to be exceptionally accurate easily within -/+2 seconds a day (but the factory regulation was off at +17 seconds a day). It has Incabloc shock protection, so it is possible (if not probable) a Premium grade movement. If the movement is a lower grade, with Incabloc, then I suppose the answer to D.H.'s question- is no, there is probably no difference in performance.
This is well written!
Damn. I may have a ETA 2824 or a SW 200 in my Steinhart Ocean one 39 . I quess both are just as good as the other . Am I right ?
Yes, I wouldn't bother much if your watch have an ETA or Sellita inside. I tend to favor the ETA a little bit because I still think they use better materials but it's rarelly something that have impact on your everyday use.
Can you shed some light on the STP1-11 movement, there is a buzz thats its not 100% swiss.
Yes, the STP is made by the company of the same name, and it's part of the Fossil Group, and that's why you see those movements on brands under the group umbrella, like Zodiac. I don't have a huge experience with them, but they look decently made clones of the 2824. But for the price they compete, even thou they fit the Swiss Made criteria, I also really don't think they are entirelly made of swiss components. Actually, a lot of ETA alternatives today aren't made 100% in Switzerland, in more or less degree.
CHRONO TALK Have tried regulating the STP, no use. Its not a 2824 which you can do in one go. This looks alike but have a complete different DNA. Very inconsistent.
CHRONO TALK As you can see in this test how inconsistent its is before regulation, mind you the watch is just 4 weeks old th-cam.com/video/FUys8z40M84/w-d-xo.html
CHRONO TALK Thanks 🙏 for your reply and info.
@@accuracychannel.7242 Oh, I see! Yeah, really not consistent at all. Too much difference between positions (too much "delta", as we call between watchmakers). But the amplitude is not bad so maybe it need a fine adjustment, checking the centering of the hairpring or the regulator pins, instead of just a rate adjustment. Looks like something like that, specially because the difference is more between horizontal vs. vertical positions, and not very much between the verticals itself.
How about the new pt 5000 ?
I have now a couple of watches equipped with the PT5000, some for over a year now and I am still very impressed. Performance-wise they are just as good as the others and I have to be very honest that I have my doubts if they are not better made and more durable than Sellitas. They are closer to an ETA level. Very very impressed.
@@CHRONOTALK that’s interesting to no thank you good content by the way 👍🏻
Show more photos of what you’re talking about rather than just showing you. Makes it more interesting
Count the jewels? What does ETA stand for?
Why not explain what numbers are better than other numbers? Like the difference between a 2824 and a 28xx
Hi there aren't really any build quality differences between movement calibre numbers. Those are just different designs and configurations. For example an ETA 2824 has a date function and a 2836 has both a date and a day function. You can find the 4 grades in each of the different examples. I built a parts watch with a Top Grade ETA 2836-2 last year.
@@michaelwhitehead4446 so 4 different grades? Is that the number after the dash? So 2836-2 would be a 2 grade?
@@tyarnold4088 Yes 4 different grades: Standard, Elabore, Top, and Chronometer certified. The "-1 or -2" is just the revision number of the calibre/model of movement. So originally ETA made the 2836, then later revised it to the 2836-1 with a slight change of some kind. Finally the 2836-2 is the latest version.
@@michaelwhitehead4446 lots of good information. Thank you for your help. It all makes sense now.