G'day Paul, you on the money with the road test and also riding the motorcycle constantly, my Super Rocket 🚀 only stoped Smoking out of the left exhaust after about 500 miles time took that long for the rings to bed-in, now it runs like a clock, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.
That looks like it has had GOLDEN Hermetite jointing compound. I used to use the red then the golden came out which was much thicker and better. I saw a vid the other day where the owner had a drive belt to dynamo and he said SRM said it needed HMP grease.
My 1961 BSA Super Rocket leaks oil around the rocker box , I think maybe its coming from the rocker box to cylinder head joint . Someone told me that this is a common fault on the A10 engine. How true I don't know.
The owner has obviously spent a considerable sum on having the engine rebuilt and improved by another business. I wonder why they did not get them to sort out the snags.
On my A10 i shim the cork timing breather a bit tighter than this one You wouldn't be able to move it backwards and forward with the same ease as that one
My Road Rocket wet sumps despite my best efforts but what I don't understand is why that leads to oil out the breather. The breather is much higher than the sump and I drain the sump if the bikes been standing. My suspicion is that the extra oil in the sump that sticks to the flywheel gets pulled up and flung into the cam well then drains into the timing cover by the breather intake. I can't see another way "solid" oil gets into the timed breather. That could be what this engine is doing?
One thing I discovered with my A10 was the oil pump was leaking where the top bolts on But the base plate was ok I really assembled the pump with a tiny amount of gasket cement This cut the wet sumping down a fair bit
@@bananabrooks3836 Its high but there's an overflow/breather. The problem with a high oil level is if its ridden hard the hot oil expands and foams. What has always puzzled me is how the height of the ""Oil Level" mark on the tanks varies. I had a very original (and suffy) A10 years ago and the level line was only about halfway up the tank.
@@nickmarshall9192 Mine is all rebuilt and wet sumps horrendously, far worse than clapped out ones I've had. I flatted the pump surfaces but I'll try that as the ball / spring is all new and i need more ideas.
Not criticising the owner outright, but owning a British bike goes hand in hand with bending down and listening to the engine and having a good squint round with a rag in your hand to source a leak. Maybe he’s just a bit too nervous to put a spanner on a nut and nip it up and he probably doesn’t have a baccy tin full of fibre washers like what I does! Brit bikes are great teachers, but I suppose you have to be in the right mindset to want to learn.
A lot of talk of oil foaming and it could be seen in the green oil returning to the tank in the previous video. Motorbikes should ONLY be run on bike oil, never car oil, for this specific foaming problem, they have anti foam additives. Ducati recommend Shall Ultra full synthetic motorcycle oil only, use it on your bike of any age after it has been run in. Valve seat recession is unlikely to be a problem for old bikes unless you ride many thousands of miles a year.
G'day Paul, you on the money with the road test and also riding the motorcycle constantly, my Super Rocket 🚀 only stoped Smoking out of the left exhaust after about 500 miles time took that long for the rings to bed-in, now it runs like a clock, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.
Gosh! This one is positively dripping with upgrades. Some serious spending done on it. No wonder the owner is frustrated with it.
Thanks Paul.
The cork washer thickness and the timing marks on the cam cog need to be checked as this is time with the engine's breathing.
That looks like it has had GOLDEN Hermetite jointing compound. I used to use the red then the golden came out which was much thicker and better. I saw a vid the other day where the owner had a drive belt to dynamo and he said SRM said it needed HMP grease.
My 1961 BSA Super Rocket leaks oil around the rocker box , I think maybe its coming from the rocker box to cylinder head joint . Someone told me that this is a common fault on the A10 engine. How true I don't know.
It's the Fairy Liquid.
😂😂😂😂 or maybe duckams 20/50
The owner has obviously spent a considerable sum on having the engine rebuilt and improved by another business. I wonder why they did not get them to sort out the snags.
On my A10 i shim the cork timing breather a bit tighter than this one
You wouldn't be able to move it backwards and forward with the same ease as that one
My Road Rocket wet sumps despite my best efforts but what I don't understand is why that leads to oil out the breather. The breather is much higher than the sump and I drain the sump if the bikes been standing. My suspicion is that the extra oil in the sump that sticks to the flywheel gets pulled up and flung into the cam well then drains into the timing cover by the breather intake. I can't see another way "solid" oil gets into the timed breather. That could be what this engine is doing?
One thing I discovered with my A10 was the oil pump was leaking where the top bolts on
But the base plate was ok
I really assembled the pump with a tiny amount of gasket cement
This cut the wet sumping down a fair bit
Do you think the oil tank looks rather 'too full'?
@@bananabrooks3836 Its high but there's an overflow/breather. The problem with a high oil level is if its ridden hard the hot oil expands and foams. What has always puzzled me is how the height of the ""Oil Level" mark on the tanks varies. I had a very original (and suffy) A10 years ago and the level line was only about halfway up the tank.
@@nickmarshall9192 Mine is all rebuilt and wet sumps horrendously, far worse than clapped out ones I've had. I flatted the pump surfaces but I'll try that as the ball / spring is all new and i need more ideas.
@@limyrob1383 I think that line was supposed to be a minimum oil level
Not criticising the owner outright, but owning a British bike goes hand in hand with bending down and listening to the engine and having a good squint round with a rag in your hand to source a leak. Maybe he’s just a bit too nervous to put a spanner on a nut and nip it up and he probably doesn’t have a baccy tin full of fibre washers like what I does! Brit bikes are great teachers, but I suppose you have to be in the right mindset to want to learn.
Perhaps the stickers on the side panels indicate a bike which has been rebuilt but needs to be used to demonstrate where tweaking is required.
A lot of talk of oil foaming and it could be seen in the green oil returning to the tank in the previous video. Motorbikes should ONLY be run on bike oil, never car oil, for this specific foaming problem, they have anti foam additives. Ducati recommend Shall Ultra full synthetic motorcycle oil only, use it on your bike of any age after it has been run in. Valve seat recession is unlikely to be a problem for old bikes unless you ride many thousands of miles a year.