If you need REALLY heat resistant, use Ceramic filament. That crazy Portugues Integza made 3D printed rocket nozzles with it and they can get glowing hot without breaking.
Some things to consider: Polymax PC is not pure PC, with its tg around 113c compared to pure PC's tg of 147c. Gizmodorks PC is proper polycarbonate and its HDT@1.8mpa is around 140c. The CF filament you used here was also polycarbonate, however it was blended more than the polymax PC making it easier to print, which resulted in its earlier failure. Normally a filling of glass or carbon fibers increases the HDT of a part AND makes it easier to print. Also printing polycarbonate releases BPA fumes, so venting or filtering it through activated carbon is required.
@ravemasters9564 From polymaker? Yes, and I've had a pretty solid experience with it so far besides some minor issues with layer adhesion. Otherwise it's performance is quite incredible for how easy it is to print.
@3d.printed.flight If the carbon fiber used in the filament is chopped into strands then yes, the cf and the lower tg of the filament makes it easier to print. However, if the carbon fiber is a milled powder then it provides no benefit, and I believe it may actually cause more warping due to the added nucleation sites for crystallization that the powder provides. But that last part is just a theory, I need to do more reading to determine if that's true.
Thank you for taking time on this experiment If u Look closely, 114 is the PC failure In my opinion material failure should be marked at the first sight of movement not the last. Also . When you are raising temperature so rapidly parts are not heating as fast so what you are creating is the hot outer layer and colder core. I suggest another test where you increase temperature one degree per minute on small parts like yours . What I have noticed is that Polycarbonate tend to warp somewhere below 85 Celsius and Polymaker one below 79 on 1cm diameter round rod at 72mm length. I also suggest you try Polyamide CF15 I’m not a testing guy but it is working fine for me in temperatures above 100, honestly I have no way of measuring it exactly but I’m confident it will outperform PC-CF5 (my guess 120-130) looking forward to your next video.
I always print in PC from PolyMaker. and it is true that warping is an issue, if the shape is not right. I get the best results with: Magigoo PC, 120°C printbed, 6round of brim, 275°C Nozzel,. AND importantly you have to remove the part when the printbed is >60°C. If you let it cool down all the way it can destroy glass surfaces.
somehow i managed with a small brim to print a 200mm long big polymax pc part (it was like 150g of material. kinda hurt but my petg parts kept breaking) and there was zero warping
Tiny bit of advice here, you should always say/include the name of the plastic being infused with CF, because any plastic can be mixed with it. And as you correctly stated, the filament only has a small % of CF in it. I believe you never say which plastic it is, so I'll assume it's CF PC because of the health risk study you linked.
That was a great experiment setup. I just ordered my first 3d printer and will keep away from ABS until I get a ventilation system, thanks for the fumes tip.
I'm not a fan of PETG. I still use it occasionally, but it's stringy as hell, and that's not an issue with my machine as I have a direct drive system that is very dialed in, every other material I use prints fantastic but I have never been able to eliminate PETG stringing. That Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate is one of my top filaments, I use that for 90% of my prints, I love that stuff. You need a hardened nozzle to print it, and an all metal hotend because of the temperature requirements, but it prints great with a nice finish, strong, and very temperature resistant.
I've tried annealing, it's very strong but hard to keep its original shape (haven't made a video yet). But since this video, I've been doing production strictly with PC carbon fiber, it has all around good attributes.
I knew you had placed the samples in the order of melting temperatures. However, it was interesting to see at what temperatures the materials actually failed.
A lot of tough resins out there with incredibly high temperatures. I believe I've seen some claim 140-160C. I usually mix in some flexible resin with toughness or abs like resin to deliver a similar PETG feel.
@@scifi_shop Yes do that...it seems to have good benefits. Not so high in cost and not to hard to print compared to some other filament 😊 It's good overall
Great video, thank you. Can I ask what your start gcode is to make it possible to do a continuous purge line until it starts printing the skirt? I've been looking everywhere to make a purge line without any retraction!
Great video. was looking for something exatly like this. i would love to see you test NylonG and NylonX material to see how that stand up to temp. New sub
Great test! I wonder what new filaments we have since this video was made that could show interesting results here. Have you tried any of the ones that you bake/anneal after printing? Thanks for sharing this! 😁
Ah yes, I got a dedicated baking oven, but it's really tricky as annealing can easily warp. I usually do them on small prints. Yea I need to do a follow up video for the heavy weight class :)
@@scifi_shop Ah, makes sense! My first 3D printer is currently on it's way to me, give me a year or two and I'll probably have a dedicated baking oven too. Kinda always wanted one to get into powder coating... 🤔😂
Yep never go back to priline carbon Fiber PC again. It mostly abs with little PC. I test mechanical strength is weaker than Pure PC like 3dxtech have. Polymax is a better version but up to 113 °C. The point in here that if it expose to long term temperature can cause deformity thus the best to go if you want real pure PC up to 145°C softening point and 137°C heat deflection but with some degree of difficult hard to print a big piece warping free is 3dxtech PC cor Gizmo Dork PC ( clear).
great video! What kind of project are you doing that needs high HDT? We have a composite resin that has much higher HDT while still printable on a resin MSLA printer. We heard you are getting Photo X.
Ah yes, we did a diy Xbox th-cam.com/video/igu-_Gb6HjA/w-d-xo.html, and working on some cooling containment build. Definitely will try the composite resin. That's right, we just got the photon mono x (it's still in the packaging); can't wait!
All in all great video! Gotta say though, that is some weird PETG that needs 240-260 with cooling on, usually it's in the range of 235 and cooling makes it stringy as hell.. Why not try PC\ABS? It supposedly is easier to print and retains the properties of PC well enough, and check annealing, maybe that can get you the result with easier material
Thanks for suggestion. I do a follow-up video in the future. The printing temp is really depends on the printer and filament brands; how the hot ends are designed and their sensors. I always note these specs down on successful prints.
@@scifi_shop of course, each filament brand is different, i use ASA on my engineblock as a badge,2 years, no change, PETG as an air filter housing, cold enough, works, but i used carbon petg on the engine block, that deformed from the heat, so now machining it from Aluminum
Interesting but if PLA holds 60+°C then the weight used was too small to provide data useful for technical parts. The rest is still useful but for non-loas bearing parts.
Thanks for this video I was gonna hceck how hot I can make my enclosure and came back here. seems like I don't have to worry about PETG parts in my printer. but damn that PC....
@@scifi_shop update: my belt holders for my PETG parts did slide off and losen under even a passive enclosure :| not recommended for a 3d printer! it doesn't visually look different but as it got hot it got losened!
@@scifi_shop to cool my PETG parts? i'll just use ABS from now on. or PC blends, My pure PC warped like HELL when i printed it (the same print that ruined my PETG part)
Great content but sorry for bringing this up, but could you please consider throwing a LUT or some serious contrast over your footage? If I had to guess, you're shooting S-log or some other flavor of log and while the washed out look can work for certain things, it's not really suited - in my opinion - for an informative YT channel. Actually, you don't even need to shoot in log, you can just pick a punchier profile and skip the LUT step in post altogether;) Anyways, I came here for the PC content and will sub either way;)
Hey do you possibly know how much lighter carbon fiber filament is to pla? I'm told its light weight but im not sure just how much lighter it is when comparing the two
They generally mix in only 5% carbon fiber strands to keep the plastic property, so I can't imagine it is that much lighter (more significant for larger and dense prints). I'll do a quick test next month when I get a high precision scale.
I think it'd be close. I'll do a follow-up video on this. But personally I don't like annealing because of shrinking and warping. Most annealing you've seen done are on parts that are very small and dense; it's not suitable for most dimensions and density.
Great test. Could Nylon (PA12) be a possibility in your project? Maby? It is highly hydroscopic thou. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
my temp rankings somewhat match yours lol. For some reason pc cf has lower temp resistance than polymaker pc which already has a lower temp resistance in lieu of lower printability
@@scifi_shop i wish polymaker made a polymax pc cf lol. Ive been waiting for an alternative for cf nylon, and other cf filamets ive found just dont cut it.
Too fast temperature increasement!, You did not take into account the temperature gradient (adhesion). Result are totally wrong. PLA will fail about 50-60c. In your case, when air temperature was 85c - inside temperature of material was about 55c.
Agree, was the first thing comeing to my mind seeing this video. If you don't let the heat distribute thoroughly inside the test objects you'll not produce any meaningfull results.
Nice video, and a great test! I print tons of ABS, and some CF (which in my case is ABS/CF I believe.) Warpage has to be monitored, and must keep in mind the vapors while heating. I have a friend that prints lots of PETG and loves it. I've never tried PLA because I want strength. I've never tried PC before. :-)
Give Polymaker PC a try. It's PC blend but it prints much easier then pure PC. Probably the easiest material I've printed so far and I mostly print ABS and Nylon.
The ender 3 does go up to 250c, but I believe you'll need to upgrade to an all metal hot ends because the PTFE tube may degrades with such high temperature. Also you'll need an enclosure to prevent warping.
This was a good video. I'm just getting into 3d printing and this information will help me decide which printer to get. The music was unnecessary during the time lapse though. I would have liked to see Nylon 66 included in this test. It would be interesting to see a video testing the tensile strength as well. You could print some I beams and hang weights from the center to see how much load they can hold before they fail.
He mentioned CNC Kitchen already did the tests you're interested in there is another youtuber that tests materials named Thomas Sanladerer that you might want to check out too.
Nice effort, but this experiment doesn't have any sense. You are changing temperature way too fast, the material did not reach the temperature you are measuring. So all the temperatures are much higher than what actual materials can withstand. You should have let it exposed to each temperature for at least several hours (days, even better), and then you could get some real numbers. For example, I have got PETG bending at just over 50°C, and ABS bending at only few °C more, when under some load.
What would you like for us to test next? Thanks for watching!
CF polycarbonate and nylon with and without Cf?
Maybe some color grading profiles since you filmed in a flat profile?
If you need REALLY heat resistant, use Ceramic filament.
That crazy Portugues Integza made 3D printed rocket nozzles with it and they can get glowing hot without breaking.
I like the experimental setup
No offense but you sound like it's painful to speak English.
DUDE ! I wanna hear this man rap
Dont like that kind of music but i'll make an exception for this guy 💚
This video is quite informative and nicely done. The test is exactly what I wanted to see.
Thanks, really appreciated. We've learned a lot doing our projects, but we'll try to put out time to make videos like this to do knowledge transfer :)
Some things to consider: Polymax PC is not pure PC, with its tg around 113c compared to pure PC's tg of 147c. Gizmodorks PC is proper polycarbonate and its HDT@1.8mpa is around 140c. The CF filament you used here was also polycarbonate, however it was blended more than the polymax PC making it easier to print, which resulted in its earlier failure. Normally a filling of glass or carbon fibers increases the HDT of a part AND makes it easier to print. Also printing polycarbonate releases BPA fumes, so venting or filtering it through activated carbon is required.
No the cf makes filament easier to print because it prevents warping
Have you experimented with CF15 Polyamide ? In my experience it is also a good option.
@ravemasters9564 From polymaker? Yes, and I've had a pretty solid experience with it so far besides some minor issues with layer adhesion. Otherwise it's performance is quite incredible for how easy it is to print.
@3d.printed.flight If the carbon fiber used in the filament is chopped into strands then yes, the cf and the lower tg of the filament makes it easier to print. However, if the carbon fiber is a milled powder then it provides no benefit, and I believe it may actually cause more warping due to the added nucleation sites for crystallization that the powder provides. But that last part is just a theory, I need to do more reading to determine if that's true.
Thank you for taking time on this experiment
If u Look closely, 114 is the PC failure
In my opinion material failure should be marked at the first sight of movement not the last. Also . When you are raising temperature so rapidly parts are not heating as fast so what you are creating is the hot outer layer and colder core.
I suggest another test where you increase temperature one degree per minute on small parts like yours . What I have noticed is that Polycarbonate tend to warp somewhere below 85 Celsius and Polymaker one below 79 on 1cm diameter round rod at 72mm length.
I also suggest you try Polyamide CF15 I’m not a testing guy but it is working fine for me in temperatures above 100, honestly I have no way of measuring it exactly but I’m confident it will outperform PC-CF5 (my guess 120-130) looking forward to your next video.
I always print in PC from PolyMaker. and it is true that warping is an issue, if the shape is not right. I get the best results with: Magigoo PC, 120°C printbed, 6round of brim, 275°C Nozzel,.
AND importantly you have to remove the part when the printbed is >60°C. If you let it cool down all the way it can destroy glass surfaces.
Thanks for sharing.
somehow i managed with a small brim to print a 200mm long big polymax pc part (it was like 150g of material. kinda hurt but my petg parts kept breaking) and there was zero warping
Tiny bit of advice here, you should always say/include the name of the plastic being infused with CF, because any plastic can be mixed with it. And as you correctly stated, the filament only has a small % of CF in it. I believe you never say which plastic it is, so I'll assume it's CF PC because of the health risk study you linked.
i was thinking the same how am insupposed to kno like carbon fibeer what🤨💀🤦🏽♂️
Great video! I'm surprised how little separation there was in the grand scheme of temps.
That was a great experiment setup. I just ordered my first 3d printer and will keep away from ABS until I get a ventilation system, thanks for the fumes tip.
Awesome, once you get things dial down, it becomes lifestyle 🙂
Exactly what the published specs would predict. Nice to see it demonstrated that the published info on these materials is fairly accurate.
I'm not a fan of PETG. I still use it occasionally, but it's stringy as hell, and that's not an issue with my machine as I have a direct drive system that is very dialed in, every other material I use prints fantastic but I have never been able to eliminate PETG stringing. That Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate is one of my top filaments, I use that for 90% of my prints, I love that stuff. You need a hardened nozzle to print it, and an all metal hotend because of the temperature requirements, but it prints great with a nice finish, strong, and very temperature resistant.
Thanks for the tips.
A very clear and smart video. Thanks
Great review and nice setup ty
You have good energy 👍👍
Very nice video. Well structured and informative. Good job!
Thank you. Really appreciate it.
popped up in recommend nice job bro this. is sick
Liked and sub'd. Fantastic quality for ONLY 274 SUBSCRIBERS??!?! WHAT?!?!
Thank you! Yea we're working on it.
Awesome video thanks
Awesome test where you have the timer and thermometer on the same screen. Have you made a video where you annealed them? Thanks!!!
I've tried annealing, it's very strong but hard to keep its original shape (haven't made a video yet). But since this video, I've been doing production strictly with PC carbon fiber, it has all around good attributes.
Very nice! Thanks
Great video! I appreciate your efforts. Subscribed to see more!
Thank you, appreciate it.
Great video!!
Hey its Jason from The Good Place!
I knew you had placed the samples in the order of melting temperatures. However, it was interesting to see at what temperatures the materials actually failed.
Ah I actually made a wild guess and got lucky 😂.
A lot of tough resins out there with incredibly high temperatures. I believe I've seen some claim 140-160C. I usually mix in some flexible resin with toughness or abs like resin to deliver a similar PETG feel.
Ah interesting. How do you mix them? Dual extruder?
This video was helpful. Thank you.
MATE, I made an intake air box for a car out of ABS. I then painted it in an ABS/acetone slurry and it can withstand temps up to 120c.
Really? Nice.
@@scifi_shop You want pics?
@@TheBludgutz Sure.
@@scifi_shop where do i send them?
You can paste the link here if you like. I'll setup a channel public email soon.
Great video 🙂 I was looking for a test with ASA...but now I got some info about the other filaments.
Ooh, ASA has high promises. I'll definitely check it out.
@@scifi_shop Yes do that...it seems to have good benefits. Not so high in cost and not to hard to print compared to some other filament 😊 It's good overall
Nice video, well done, good presentation. You should do more.
Would like to see Prusament PC blend in a test, compared to PolyMaker PC
Thanks for the suggestion. Will do.
great
thanks
Excellent presentation, thank you 👍🏻
Thank you, appreciate it.
Great video, thank you. Can I ask what your start gcode is to make it possible to do a continuous purge line until it starts printing the skirt? I've been looking everywhere to make a purge line without any retraction!
You can download Qidi Tech slicer (clone of cura) to get the gcode. It's on default.
@@scifi_shop Thank you so much!
Great video. was looking for something exatly like this. i would love to see you test NylonG and NylonX material to see how that stand up to temp. New sub
Thank you. Definitely will try Nylon next.
Great test! I wonder what new filaments we have since this video was made that could show interesting results here. Have you tried any of the ones that you bake/anneal after printing? Thanks for sharing this! 😁
Ah yes, I got a dedicated baking oven, but it's really tricky as annealing can easily warp. I usually do them on small prints. Yea I need to do a follow up video for the heavy weight class :)
@@scifi_shop Ah, makes sense! My first 3D printer is currently on it's way to me, give me a year or two and I'll probably have a dedicated baking oven too. Kinda always wanted one to get into powder coating... 🤔😂
@@scifi_shop also, definitely subscribing cause I don't wanna miss the follow up!!
There's also nylon...
Thanks for the video, subscribed :-)
that pc company should be paying you lol amazing vid
Haha thanks
We work with Nylon filament that can withstand 200 degrees celcius
I'll definitely include it in my next test.
Yep never go back to priline carbon Fiber PC again. It mostly abs with little PC. I test mechanical strength is weaker than Pure PC like 3dxtech have. Polymax is a better version but up to 113 °C. The point in here that if it expose to long term temperature can cause deformity thus the best to go if you want real pure PC up to 145°C softening point and 137°C heat deflection but with some degree of difficult hard to print a big piece warping free is 3dxtech PC cor Gizmo Dork PC ( clear).
Ah good findings. Thanks for sharing.
I would love to have this guys voice announcing 10 degree increments from my printer. Nozzle temp 10 degrees c, 20 degrees etc
I am very interested in this job position.
great video! What kind of project are you doing that needs high HDT? We have a composite resin that has much higher HDT while still printable on a resin MSLA printer. We heard you are getting Photo X.
Ah yes, we did a diy Xbox th-cam.com/video/igu-_Gb6HjA/w-d-xo.html, and working on some cooling containment build. Definitely will try the composite resin. That's right, we just got the photon mono x (it's still in the packaging); can't wait!
All in all great video! Gotta say though, that is some weird PETG that needs 240-260 with cooling on, usually it's in the range of 235 and cooling makes it stringy as hell..
Why not try PC\ABS? It supposedly is easier to print and retains the properties of PC well enough, and check annealing, maybe that can get you the result with easier material
Thanks for suggestion. I do a follow-up video in the future. The printing temp is really depends on the printer and filament brands; how the hot ends are designed and their sensors. I always note these specs down on successful prints.
@@scifi_shop of course, each filament brand is different, i use ASA on my engineblock as a badge,2 years, no change, PETG as an air filter housing, cold enough, works, but i used carbon petg on the engine block, that deformed from the heat, so now machining it from Aluminum
Nice nice. I'm waiting on a CNC machine, going to move some parts to aluminum as well.
@@scifi_shop Nice, definitely subscribing to see what is coming next
Did I miss what the base polymer was with the CF...? Was it a Nylon/polyamide?
Ah sorry, it's also Polycarbonate. I didn't bring it close enough to the camera.
Interesting but if PLA holds 60+°C then the weight used was too small to provide data useful for technical parts.
The rest is still useful but for non-loas bearing parts.
Yea, we need a standard :)
Thanks for this video I was gonna hceck how hot I can make my enclosure and came back here. seems like I don't have to worry about PETG parts in my printer. but damn that PC....
That's great.
@@scifi_shop update: my belt holders for my PETG parts did slide off and losen under even a passive enclosure :| not recommended for a 3d printer! it doesn't visually look different but as it got hot it got losened!
@@ameliabuns4058 ah, anywhere you can fit a heatsink and fan? They do wonders.
@@scifi_shop to cool my PETG parts?
i'll just use ABS from now on.
or PC blends, My pure PC warped like HELL when i printed it (the same print that ruined my PETG part)
@@ameliabuns4058 I see.
As for your test pcs why is the CF not named as a material not an additive to a base material so what the the base material of the CF sample?
Sorry, I thought it's was on camera. It's also Polycarbonate base.
Hello, may I know what equipment you use to increase the ambience temperature?
I use a fairly accurate retail digital cooking oven and a high temp thermometer. They do have a scientific oven, but those are extremely expensive.
@@scifi_shop wow thank you so much for the response, It means a lot.
Great content but sorry for bringing this up, but could you please consider throwing a LUT or some serious contrast over your footage? If I had to guess, you're shooting S-log or some other flavor of log and while the washed out look can work for certain things, it's not really suited - in my opinion - for an informative YT channel.
Actually, you don't even need to shoot in log, you can just pick a punchier profile and skip the LUT step in post altogether;)
Anyways, I came here for the PC content and will sub either way;)
Thanks for the suggestion, really appreciate it. Good to know what you're looking for. Yea we shoot in s-log for planned LUTs, but got lazy.
well done thx
All this info is already available. A few calculations and you can determine these results.
Hey do you possibly know how much lighter carbon fiber filament is to pla? I'm told its light weight but im not sure just how much lighter it is when comparing the two
They generally mix in only 5% carbon fiber strands to keep the plastic property, so I can't imagine it is that much lighter (more significant for larger and dense prints). I'll do a quick test next month when I get a high precision scale.
Do you think annealed PLA outperform PC in heatresistance?
I think it'd be close. I'll do a follow-up video on this. But personally I don't like annealing because of shrinking and warping. Most annealing you've seen done are on parts that are very small and dense; it's not suitable for most dimensions and density.
Great test.
Could Nylon (PA12) be a possibility in your project? Maby?
It is highly hydroscopic thou.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Will do!
Surprised actually by the small difference between pla and petg!! How about pla+ i wonder or the new petg+
I'll look into it in the next test for the heavyweight champion :)
that priline pc/cf is not very strong
my temp rankings somewhat match yours lol. For some reason pc cf has lower temp resistance than polymaker pc which already has a lower temp resistance in lieu of lower printability
Maybe the fiber gives it more flexibility.
@@scifi_shop wouldnt it work the other way around?
I think its bc polymakers pc blend is higher temp than the priline stuff. Priline stuff probably has a significant percentage of petg in thr blend.
@@josiahong5177 yea I was about to say, it might depends on the manufacturer as well.
@@scifi_shop i wish polymaker made a polymax pc cf lol. Ive been waiting for an alternative for cf nylon, and other cf filamets ive found just dont cut it.
PETG is non-toxic!
Not to be confused with ABS!
Too fast temperature increasement!, You did not take into account the temperature gradient (adhesion). Result are totally wrong. PLA will fail about 50-60c. In your case, when air temperature was 85c - inside temperature of material was about 55c.
Agree, was the first thing comeing to my mind seeing this video. If you don't let the heat distribute thoroughly inside the test objects you'll not produce any meaningfull results.
This Is Carbon fiber it is not going to create anymore toxic fumes than the regular plastic
Nice video, and a great test! I print tons of ABS, and some CF (which in my case is ABS/CF I believe.) Warpage has to be monitored, and must keep in mind the vapors while heating. I have a friend that prints lots of PETG and loves it. I've never tried PLA because I want strength. I've never tried PC before. :-)
Yea I have a friend that swears by PETG too. I just got a handful of flexible and transparent filaments; messing around with them atm.
Give Polymaker PC a try. It's PC blend but it prints much easier then pure PC. Probably the easiest material I've printed so far and I mostly print ABS and Nylon.
Looks like petg is the best in overall. My projects would definitely not being exposed to 60 celcius and above.
Yes, it's also budget friendly.
How do ASA, TPU, PLA HT, Nylon compare?
Good list for the next test.
i dont know why you havent tested nylon, its should be there in the test its more popular than polycarbonate
I've been trying out nylon recently, very hard to get good prints. Will follow up with another video.
will an ender 3 v2 print that filament with carbon fiber ?
The ender 3 does go up to 250c, but I believe you'll need to upgrade to an all metal hot ends because the PTFE tube may degrades with such high temperature. Also you'll need an enclosure to prevent warping.
This was a good video. I'm just getting into 3d printing and this information will help me decide which printer to get. The music was unnecessary during the time lapse though. I would have liked to see Nylon 66 included in this test. It would be interesting to see a video testing the tensile strength as well. You could print some I beams and hang weights from the center to see how much load they can hold before they fail.
He mentioned CNC Kitchen already did the tests you're interested in there is another youtuber that tests materials named Thomas Sanladerer that you might want to check out too.
looks like wood is the real winner here
Lol, yes I need a 3d printable 🪵
You need try PEEK or PEI comparison
Will do!
What about Nylon?
I'll test it next, in the heavy weight class :)
try some SLA printed resins, they can withstand 200+ degrees C
Where's CLA?
CLA?
@@scifi_shop Clay, a youtuber prints with it.
Ooh, thanks for the suggestion. I'll consider it in the next test.
Now CF Nylon
Carbon fiber combined with what tho
It's also polycarbonate.
@@scifi_shop huh. intresting how THAT one melted faster...
They are nano tubes....
Nice effort, but this experiment doesn't have any sense.
You are changing temperature way too fast, the material did not reach the temperature you are measuring.
So all the temperatures are much higher than what actual materials can withstand.
You should have let it exposed to each temperature for at least several hours (days, even better), and then you could get some real numbers.
For example, I have got PETG bending at just over 50°C, and ABS bending at only few °C more, when under some load.
Hopefully that’s not the oven you use to cook your food lol.
Haha, definitely not. It's for science only.
more lighting
Too loud background music
Ah yea, definitely will turn it down next time.
Real PC needs more than 310c
Pc CF .....
Ummm?
carbon fiber what bruh🤨
Carbon fiber poly carbonate :)
wood is the best
Wood it is.
Kind of obvious lol