Simple Oak Tray Cut | In Depth Look at CNC Router Machining
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.พ. 2022
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Milling an Oak tray on a CNC router at 600 ipm. Ryan shows how the oak tray is cut out at 600 ipm. Then he goes into detail on why he machined the tray with multiple bits. He looks at the process as if he had to cut out 1,000 of these trays. We hope this video helps you on your CNC Journey.
Spiral Flush Trim Bit - amzn.to/3oLUvXZ
My Favorite CNC Router Bit - amzn.to/3cFhFt7
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I've had a 4x8 router up and running for about 4 months, and I quickly learned that fixturing is the most important aspect of getting quality results.
And getting a load of holes in your waste board! Which then require sanding and then resurfacing! Of course you could use clamps or super glue and masking tape but all have their own issues for the hobbyist.
This is FAR from boring! I’m just getting started with a small machine and I’ve learned tons of stuff from your videos!
Wish I had watched this a week ago! Had a similar project. Like you said “nobody ever tells you these things.” I appreciate you telling us these things…..😄
This was super interesting, not boring at all! Those 15 minutes felt like two! 😁
Thanks for sharing all the great information:
Great lesson, Nothing is boring when it comes to learning more or another way for CNC'ing
Thanks much for this! Not boring at all. Plus, I really appreciate your helping us avoid some of the more-common pitfalls.
I enjoy watching your videos...especially any using an IS 510. I have a 510 that I have been setting up for months. The machine came a while ago but it took me about 3 months for my air compressor, dryer, etc. components to come in--a little less time for my ducting. Now it is finding the time from my day job to get everything installed.
I'm glad I watched to the end to understand the downcut followed by upcut information. That may be exactly what I need.
Boy, you're a real genius! Thank you for sharing your achievements with us.
This is so helpful, thank you!!
Congratulations for the video. The first part is a summary of the operation and the second part explains the reasons for the choices you made. Great 👍
not boring at all man, thanks for the videos!
I really enjoy your videos 'cause they are very relaxing and useful.
Awesome video! Great information!
Awesome! Love the tips. My IS510 shows up in May!
Thanks for sharing, great info here.
Another great video. My hobby machine tops out at about 150ipm so I won't be duplicating your project any time soon. I do make a lot of jigsaw puzzles though and use the down cut/up cut combo to get sanding-free cuts. I could do it with one pass with a compression, but this is easier on the machine and bits are less expensive.
great video ! that was really interesting , and thank you for that metric conversion 👏
No tengo CNC, espero llegar a eso, mientras tanto tus videos invitan a sentirse todo un maestro del ramo. Muchas gracias por tu trabajo.
This was exactly the video I was looking for, thanks so much for creating it !
Your welcome!
Love your videos !!! Thanx !!
Thank you very much for these videos. We have a new Shop Sabre Pro 5x10 and I’m new to CNC, so I need all the help I can get. :). This was very helpful.
Great video. Thank you!
You are welcome!
I feel encouraged to share my experience with you all, after watching this video. Our machine was bought in Hamburg, a Chinese rebuilt to fit the european standards. The machine feels roboust, looks like the one in this video. I got myself a downcut 2 flutes 8mm endmill to mill Oak. Our spindle top RPM is 20000 (I also got a compress endmill, 8mmD, and upcuts too).
I am running it at 18000RPM, cutting feedrate of 3600mm/min, and 7mm stepdown pass. The noise is alarming. I am afraid to try 15mm stepdown, as he does in the video. I am impress with the results in this video and wonder what I do wrong.
This is very cool. When you showed the large block of wood I was reminded of The Simpsons episode when they revealed how bowling pins are made.
Nice! Interesting channel.
That vaccum pump is massive 😮 that's a dream
Hi Ryan! Thanks for sharing this, very good informational video. It made me think a bit different on my processes.
A bit on the same note, but at the same time different, I want to ask you something more specific regarding cutting plywood, if that's ok with you.
How would you cut plywood on a small production cnc ( 4200mm/min max feed X, 9000mm/min max feed y, 2.2 kw er20 spindle, no vacuum, MDF spoilboard) so that you do minimal sanding on the edges and have no tear on both faces?
Do you use the same combination/order of bits as in video?
At the moment I use tabs around the pieces that need to be cut, cut them out with an oscillating tool, and clean them out on a router.
My problems with this method are:
Routing the tabs flush leaves a small ridge that needs to be sanded; sometimes I get splinters near the tabs (cross-grain) or on 90° corners or even on straight edges ( for profiling I rough climb and clean conventional, both with a 6mm compression bit)
I also thought about not using tabs and leaving a thin layer of veneer around the parts and then flush trim that.
But how do you cut the thin veneer without chipping it?
For routing the edges flush, would a spiral downcut flushtrim bit be a good choice for both cases?
Would really like to know your thoughts on this since you know how to operate such a wide array of cnc machines and you also cut plywood.
Wow thank you, I didn't know that i could go at fast.
ShopSabres are great machines. Your video was not too technical or lengthy (I watch/listen to most things @ 2x anyway). 😅 It's great to see more aspects of what you're doing in the business. I'd be interested to see more business stuff if you're willing to share (product research, marketing, fulfillment, lean, etc.). Whatever content you bring, I'm sure I'll enjoy. -Michael
Thanks!!!
Good, all good info, envious of your power and speed, however it helps to see your work and why. Thanks.
Thanks
This has helped me so much this video, thanks so much 👌👌👍 keep up the awesome work, helping and inspiring people this way. Give yourself a pat on the back.
Glad it helped!
Not boring! I got a small hobby CNC; my max feed rate is 100ipm, since my spindle can go from 10k to 32k RPM my options are limited. This is what people need to know before they buy a machine, even an entry-level machine like mine. I would say that I don't agree when you said you wouldn't worry about all the tool changes if you're just doing one tray. Those glue-ups take a lot of time to get the wood 4 square; I'd hate to get to the milling part and have a bunch of tear out.
Thank you and I can see what your saying about the tear out on not doing the tool changes correctly! I would then do a down cut with 1 pass and an upcut with the remaining passes.
Just out of curiosity, what are your acceleration values for your X & Y? Watching your machine makes me think my accel values might be a bit high. Thanks for all the explaining!
thank you
I hoped you would explain why ( cutting the outside shape of tray) you ran your bits - both the rougher ones and the finishing one backwards. And what is the benefit doing it this way as if you were run it ''normally'' in the anti-clockwise direction.
Can you show the set up in the computer program if possible great videos.very informative
I'd love to see the factory plenum on your machine. With the vacuum grooves shown cut so far apart it's no wonder the hold-down won't be sufficient for the monster bits and the power of the gantry moving the spindle around. But with a tighter grid cut into the plenum with an additional porous spoilboard on top and the zone restricted to your current work area, I'd think you should have way over 50-70 lbs of lateral hold-down. With an additional paper-thin interface between the spoil and the work, even greater.
Granted you're doing a lot of deep cuts in a dense wood, but not having to make mechanical hold downs is the greatest advantage of a vacuum system - #2 being what you mentioned, holding the work material flat as possible.
Great video, it was very informative thank you
My question is, what is wrong with using a compressed bit in this practice ?
Learning so much from you as always! A couple questions coming from someone with an Avid 6060- I assume you have an automatic tool changer using that many bits- if you didn't would you default to more of a compression style bit for speed? I know you said you usually don't use compression for depths longer than the bit diameter but I feel like I'm constantly making the compromise for the time I would lose changing through all those different bits.
Also- what's your reasoning behind using a plywood spoilboard instead of MDF? I feel like I see a lot of people going that route with vacuum work holding and interested to hear your take.
Again I super appreciate your content and please please keep it coming!
I would go with a compression with a single pass, Iuse a 1/4 compression to cut out 3/4'' plywood in one pass no problem. When you go deeper 2x the diameter reduce the feedrate down 20% of what it should be. If you go 3x the diameter reduce the feedrate 40% of what it should be normally.
I use both MDF and plywood. The plywood is only for fixtures and gasketing. So its for set products and tool paths and I will also never cut all the way through if I have a plywood spoilboard. If I am cutting all the way through I will use MDF.
I hope this helps and thank you for subscribing, this channel will be huge one day, any additional subs will help!
How do you incorporate your choice of step over in determining your other settings? It is not used in calculating chip loads but it obviously makes a large difference.
You work a lot with raw wood.
There are many processing steps.
Wouldn't it be more cost effective to buy panels beyond the size of the cnc and make a lot more parts in one go ?
On the flush trim bit it looks like a spiral down cut bit? Wouldn't a spiral up cut bit be better? I love doing large production runs of stuff. It makes me feel like I'm accomplishing something. Thanks for showing your commercial machine Ryan, I'm not sure where I'd get to see stuff like this if it wasn't for your videos!
Nice spot on the flush trim. So since the router is upside down everything is backwards. A down cut acts like an upcut. I figured this out the hard way!
Thanks for the info. where to get the tool downcut serrated Rougher?
Could the machine also make a thin channel about .5” deep all around the rim of the tray?
Dude. like the channel. Where and how do you sell your CNC products?
Super impressive, wonder what feeds and speeds would be more suitable for a desktop cnc
usually as fast as you can go and speeds accordingly 😅
What are the part numbers for your rougher and finisher bits?
How much does adding cooling to the bit reduce problems with burning it up?
First I would like to thank you for the great video here on youtube, but I would like to ask for help where I work in an upholstery industry here in Brazil, and we cut mdf all day, but the cutters we use in CNC don't last 3 days, but we cut 2 to 4 sheets at once.
Could you tell me what better cutter that supports a day of 8 hours days longer?
PCD cutter will last much longer in MDF or particle board
I'm just off to cut oak on my shapeoko3 desktop CNC at 600ipm. Wish me luck! Oh, actually maybe I need to drop a zero off the end of the feed rate first!
I feel better at 45 ipm on my Xcarve with the stiffener and stepper motor upgrades, lol. 600 is amazing. And I've never seen a serrated bit like that before. Gonna have to research them in 1/4" size.
Great Video! I have just bought the same CNC and I have a project making 1300 square oak tiles. I am somewhat new to using a CNC and the roughing bit. I just ordered one to help with my project. How do you offset the roughing tool path in VCarve? Assuming you are using VCarve.
Thanks!
Click on advanced toolpaths when you are creating the profile toolpath then an offset toolpath option will pop up and do a .04” offset.
How do you make thousands of those individual skinny boards? Thanks.
Which applications or software you use for CAM machining
How much material do you leave with the rougher bits to allow the finishing bits to clean up the walls nicely?
.05 inches
hello friend, how thick was the wood and how many millimeters did you add so that the wood would hold?
It’s one thing to type 600ipm in, it’s an entirely diff thing for a machine to actually be capable of accelerating to that over such a small distance… I have my doubts whether it actually hit that number(you can clearly see the accell/decell at the start and ends of passes) which is probably a good thing bc that spindle is bogging way down… let’s see this thing do the same cut for 2 or 3 feet straight. Looked this company up and they don’t list how many g’s there machines accell is which is really something machine tool builders brag about bc again it’s one thing to type that number in, it’s a whole mother thing for the machine to actually do that.
From a business perspective, can you share how you developed a market where you would need to produce 100 or 1000 of the same product? Thanks, super informative.
Nice and quick machining? I wonder though if your machine reaches 600ipm at that acceleration within about 6x6" pocket? I don't see much difference with 220ipm. Two way adaptive clearing at full depth is probably even quicker and better for the tool.
Definitely isn't getting 600ipm. Would need to increase those accelerations a lot to reach that on such a small cut.
i want buy it, let me know the model
thanks you very much
Hey top
Why not just use a compression bit?
It must get incredibly loud in there.
Long time no see whats going on? any new video soon?
Soon, had to take care of business things, new video within the week!
Why not finish the entire cut-out on the CNC? Seems to me, with the kind of vacuum power you have, you should have no issue with movement if your vacuum table isn't bleeding all over.
Didn’t want to damage the spoilboard and have to flycut it again.
@@cutting-it-close Isn't the idea of spoil board to be able to, well, spoil it?
Yes, for sure, but if I dont have too I won’t to save time on resurfacing
After watching a few of your videos yesterday, it bugged me all night while I slept. Why don't you use a spoilboard, you have massive vacuum, no need for fixtures at all. Why all the extra steps
92% stepOver? I know what stepOver means but obviously I'm missing something during the cutout portion.
Actually, I really don't know what stepOver has to do with contouring a cutout any way. Depth per pass makes sense but I don't actually understand what stepOver has to do with contouring when its not stepping over. It's just adjusting depth per pass every time around.
Step over is the amount the bit moves over when it’s doing a pocketing toolpath. So a 50% step over on a .25” but would be .125”
@@cutting-it-close Yes that is pocketing and I understand that. But why is it used when cutting a straight line because at that moment you were talking about cutting the outside edge at a 92% step over. Contouring a straight line (outside edge and inside edge of bowl) does not involve stepping over any at all. It only involves Depth per Pass. So why is it used? Now do you understand my question?
@@iwannaapple7190 Oh I understand. I may have misspoken in the video, but what I did do in the video was a roughing profile pass, then I came back with a finishing bit and took off .03 of an inch so I had to offset the rougher by .03 inches then my finisher actually cut right on the outside of that line cleaning up that .03 offset that the rougher left behind.
@@cutting-it-close
Thank you for the reply. Totally understood misspeaking already. I will question this way then. When I do a contour path I type in the step over. Why is their a step over for a contour line in the programs? Have you wondered why before? There is no step over but yet you enter one any way.
pretty bad when your watching cnc videos while your cnc is cutting out a job. Laugh.
why do you wave your arms around like that when you talk?
Very misleading. Yes you may have had you toolpaths and tooling set to run at 600ipm, but truthfully, you never hit the 600ipm. There was not enough linear distance for your gantry to achieve that speed.