Dear Peter Thank you so much for giving us these two pro-modelrailroader tips. I find your cutting baseboard truly ingenious, as someone could build it him/herself with a predetermined width for the base roadbed. As for the pre-tensioning of the flex tracks, again an outstanding yet brilliantly simple idea. I hope you are doing alright and were able to get through Christmas and new years, and I hope that people close to you are there for you when needed. Take care. Kindest of regards Richy The Netherlands
It is very interesting to see there is an less expensive alternative to Woodland Scenics Roadbed. I have used over 1,000 feet of the expensive stuff. It works brilliantly, as an acoustic block between the track and the always resonate wood. Thanks for the tip. Rob
Hey Peter Doing work on my N scale layout using ME flex track I've been setting the radius of my curves with the fast tracks alignment inserts. Typically I find using a set either half or full inch tighter than desired to get the intended radius. I will follow it up with putting in the intended radius inserts when putting in the final place. I've tried glueing my track down with the inserts between the rails being careful not to put too much glue down that would also fix the inserts to the track. Inserts are also handy to allow you to put weights on with less fear of damaging the rail heads.
nice tip on bending the track. that is good for someone like you, that builds layout. For most of us we would only need 2 or 4 curved sections of track and the layout is done. Nice to see how you do it thou.
I think you will need a lot more than 4 curved pieces. You have a very tall double-track helix and three reversing loops at one end of your room, and six half circles at the other. My best guess is about 130 yard lengths that you had to curve. :-) Thanks for the comment though.
It does reduce the benefit somewhat but not nearly as much as using nails to attach the track. The finished track will still be a lot quieter than if the roadbed was omitted.
Hi Peter, excellent video. How do you transfer exact easements from 3rdplanit to the roadbed and then to flextrack? What is your method to replicate all the difficult curves you planned in the software into the track?
Depending on the situation, sometimes I will purchase a full-sized print of the track plan. With this project, I just plotted all the curves using a home-made tool (you saw me use it), and then offset the straights by about 1/4" or 3/8". Most brands of flex-track will quite happily make a perfect easement between these two lines. I've yet to find a satisfactory way of creating an easement with Micro-Engineering track, however it is great for helixes where we need many consecutive identical curves. In this situation, the ME product was by far the best option because I had to separate the helix into two halves and the ME track keeps its shape at the ends whereas other brands will kink.
My Home Depot store only had the US stuff. I could have ordered it from England but the shipping would have been too expensive and it probably wouldn't have worked any better with the extra "i". :-)
Thanks Peter for more practical wisdom from a Master. I have found an Australian distributor of foam EVA that can provide 3mm 1x2 metre sheets but there is a density range from 30-40 Kg/m^3. Do you know what density you are using? I presume towards the lower end but a precise value would be handy. Glad to see you are still keeping at it at this early period of grief. May the Lord sustain you now and always.
Interesting product, was there an link or more information as to where to purchase these sheets as I'm currently getting materials for my HO Scale FreeMo builds. cheers
If you go back to the beginning of this series, you will see every step of how I do it. If most of your track is at the same level and you just have a few inclines, you may be able to get by with Woodland Scenics riser set.
Howzit : Now Retired; I Was A Longtime Supplier Of CHEMICAL BLOWING AGENTS. I Can Only Go By The Viddy; But I Would Guess Your Sheet Is * Blown / Foamed EVA ( Ethylene Vinyl Acetate ); * Which Is WAY More Durable / Robust Than The Traditional; But Lousy MR-ing Sub-Track Sponge-Foam. In Truth and In My Humble Opinion; This Type Of Foam Is Quite Useless ! Aggravated By Climate Conditions; It Disintegrates In A Relatively Short Time. A Fact To Accept Is That Once Track Is Ballasted; The Intended Function Of * Sound-Deadening * Is To A Degree; Compromised. However; The Sub-Track Underlay ( Cork or Foam ) Does Impart A More Realistic Ballast-Profile. MUCH Thanks For A Superb and Interesting Viddy-Series ! Cheers For Now / John ( North American HO : Transition Era )
That was not my dog, but she is very friendly and I can't imagine her biting. Mid-way through this project, she started coming over to play with my dogs and for a while she visited every day.
Dear Peter
Thank you so much for giving us these two pro-modelrailroader tips. I find your cutting baseboard truly ingenious, as someone could build it him/herself with a predetermined width for the base roadbed. As for the pre-tensioning of the flex tracks, again an outstanding yet brilliantly simple idea.
I hope you are doing alright and were able to get through Christmas and new years, and I hope that people close to you are there for you when needed. Take care.
Kindest of regards
Richy
The Netherlands
Very useful tips. One day if I expand my layout I will keep these in mind. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Very helpful video! Thanks for sharing. I especially like how simple you keep the track bending process!
Excelent simple jig for cutting the roadbed. I will be making that thanks.
Yeah, no kidding, me too!
Glad you both found it useful.
It is very interesting to see there is an less expensive alternative to Woodland Scenics Roadbed. I have used over 1,000 feet of the expensive stuff. It works brilliantly, as an acoustic block between the track and the always resonate wood. Thanks for the tip. Rob
That was very helpful Peter thank you, take care of your self Julian
Simple, but effective solutions ! Thank you once again.
Great video! I really like that you share your tricks to build model railroads..
You are a very skillful worker.
Fantastic and easy--thank you.
Hi Peter, Happy 2021 with rich blessings! Thanks for sharing these interesting tips in this fine video. Greetings,
Impressive helix. Thanks for the tip.
Hey Peter
Doing work on my N scale layout using ME flex track I've been setting the radius of my curves with the fast tracks alignment inserts. Typically I find using a set either half or full inch tighter than desired to get the intended radius. I will follow it up with putting in the intended radius inserts when putting in the final place. I've tried glueing my track down with the inserts between the rails being careful not to put too much glue down that would also fix the inserts to the track. Inserts are also handy to allow you to put weights on with less fear of damaging the rail heads.
Very helpful video, thanks Peter!
Great tip
Thank you!! Great tips and videos... Very helpful...
nice tip on bending the track. that is good for someone like you, that builds layout. For most of us we would only need 2 or 4 curved sections of track and the layout is done.
Nice to see how you do it thou.
I think you will need a lot more than 4 curved pieces. You have a very tall double-track helix and three reversing loops at one end of your room, and six half circles at the other. My best guess is about 130 yard lengths that you had to curve. :-) Thanks for the comment though.
@@mpeterll i do for sure. I was talking in general. but yes for me. I love the idea
Once you ballast and glue down all the ballast, does it eliminate all of the advantages of using "quiet" roadbed?
It does reduce the benefit somewhat but not nearly as much as using nails to attach the track. The finished track will still be a lot quieter than if the roadbed was omitted.
Hi Peter, excellent video. How do you transfer exact easements from 3rdplanit to the roadbed and then to flextrack? What is your method to replicate all the difficult curves you planned in the software into the track?
Depending on the situation, sometimes I will purchase a full-sized print of the track plan. With this project, I just plotted all the curves using a home-made tool (you saw me use it), and then offset the straights by about 1/4" or 3/8". Most brands of flex-track will quite happily make a perfect easement between these two lines. I've yet to find a satisfactory way of creating an easement with Micro-Engineering track, however it is great for helixes where we need many consecutive identical curves. In this situation, the ME product was by far the best option because I had to separate the helix into two halves and the ME track keeps its shape at the ends whereas other brands will kink.
awesome video as usual
Nice, always like your videos.
Great hints 👍👍👍
great job great video
Good video, Peter. Do you not like to use tracksettas on large curves?
Yes I did find it useful. Can we order the rubber sheets from that guy?
Yes. That's why I included his link in the description.
@@mpeterll Did not see it. I will look again.
Oh no, you've taken on the US pronunciation of aluminium :)
Great vid, thanks
My Home Depot store only had the US stuff. I could have ordered it from England but the shipping would have been too expensive and it probably wouldn't have worked any better with the extra "i". :-)
@@mpeterll ha :)
👍👍👍👍 great suggestions.
Thanks Peter for more practical wisdom from a Master.
I have found an Australian distributor of foam EVA that can provide 3mm 1x2 metre sheets but there is a density range from 30-40 Kg/m^3. Do you know what density you are using? I presume towards the lower end but a precise value would be handy.
Glad to see you are still keeping at it at this early period of grief. May the Lord sustain you now and always.
I don't know what grade of rubber it is.
@@mpeterll thanks 🙏 Peter perhaps another subscriber will know.
Great skill - makes it look so easy; but it isn’t! Thanks for sharing; can but try to replicate.
Practice will eventually make it easy. Just take your time and keep at it.
@@mpeterll Thanks for taking the trouble to reply and for the encouragement - large part of the enjoyment is learning all the time. Stay safe
Good Demo !
Interesting product, was there an link or more information as to where to purchase these sheets as I'm currently getting materials for my HO Scale FreeMo builds. cheers
Info in the description.
AffordableModelRailroads@gmail.com
@@thomasboese3793 Thank you very much, I will look into this. cheers
I’m new to ur Channel can u explain how u make ur risers and inclines please
If you go back to the beginning of this series, you will see every step of how I do it.
If most of your track is at the same level and you just have a few inclines, you may be able to get by with Woodland Scenics riser set.
does that rubber smell bad?
I've never noticed any bad smell.
I’m sorry to bother you I hit the wrong button an lost what u sent to me thanks for the reply
Howzit : Now Retired; I Was A Longtime Supplier Of CHEMICAL BLOWING AGENTS. I Can Only Go By The Viddy; But I Would Guess Your Sheet Is * Blown / Foamed EVA ( Ethylene Vinyl Acetate ); * Which Is WAY More Durable / Robust Than The Traditional; But Lousy MR-ing Sub-Track Sponge-Foam. In Truth and In My Humble Opinion; This Type Of Foam Is Quite Useless ! Aggravated By Climate Conditions; It Disintegrates In A Relatively Short Time. A Fact To Accept Is That Once Track Is Ballasted; The Intended Function Of * Sound-Deadening * Is To A Degree; Compromised. However; The Sub-Track Underlay ( Cork or Foam ) Does Impart A More Realistic Ballast-Profile. MUCH Thanks For A Superb and Interesting Viddy-Series ! Cheers For Now / John ( North American HO : Transition Era )
would MLV be better? www.acoustimac.com/soundproofing
In a very bad French accent..."Does your dog bite?"
That was not my dog, but she is very friendly and I can't imagine her biting. Mid-way through this project, she started coming over to play with my dogs and for a while she visited every day.