Back again Curtis, got the stripped screws out and rethreaded it so all good their mate thanks for the advice,but im currently having trouble getting the new seal into it as the previous owner had done zero maintenance on it causing the previous seal to come out in pieces. I already cleaned up,and I would like some advice on getting the new seal in please.
@@SlurpBadurp nice work mate. The new one should honestly push in with your thumbs or at least you can get it started in the correct position with your thumbs. There should be some resistance pushing it in so you may need to use the back side of a large socket against the seal and gently tap it in with a hammer. Just re-watch from 10:30 onwards it should explain everything you’ll need to know. Just make sure if you do decide to use a little bit of lubricant to install the seal only use a very small amount, you really want a good tight seal so it doesn’t leak👍
Way easier than on my old XL500R, the seal is installed from inside the crankcase, which had to be split once i removed the engine from the frame and stripped it down to the last nut and bolt. This was after i had pulled it to pieces a few months earlier to replace the counterbalance chain...
Definitely need to tension wrench that but Knock on wood I’ve never had a leaky seal Even after 76000kms Did have that little o ring leak Oil was weeping on the shaft it’s self
yeah just watched that video....I usually buy my bearings and seals for anything at a bearing dealer only....top quality...in fact the OEM number on the bearing is the same number on the other bearing.....never used and never will trust a bearing from a place that sells all kinds of bike stuff...never know where it comes from. FAG or Boston Gears are the big names around here. Great video....when are you heading for the Simpaon trip?
Yeah mate solid advice I’ll be doing the same from now on as well. We are planning to get back out there in a couple of months the Simo is shut during summer as temps get up to 50 degrees Celsius so they seem it too dangerous for tourists throughout that period. Not long though.
Yeah mate go for it can’t imagine would hurt but tbh if you have installed the locking washer, put thread lock on the nut and fastened it tightly I don’t think it would really matter. Just my 2 cents👍
@@anotherguyonabike4726yeah but like nowhere says to loctite the nut. the locking washer should take care of that. the loctite fix is for the sprocket wearing down the splines, has nothing to do with the nut coming loose. sorry so many video tutorials forget to mention info or give wrong info, better to read online.
so i read some more and the "loctite fix" does not apply to the countershaft nut, but it's recommended to loctite all fasteners anyway. the locking washer on mine was shredded so would've been good insurance
@@SlurpBadurp hey mate, I started with a screw removal kit which tbh was shit. The screws were in that tight the tool snapped off in the head of the screw making it even hard to get out. I ended up getting a drill bit 1 size smaller then the actual screw thread and just carefully drilled it out. This only left a small amount of screw metal in the original thread which I then tapped allowing me to use the original thread in the engine case. Hope this helps man🤙
Only a casual mention of the nut holding the sprocket coming undone, this is a BIG problem in my experience. Thread lock a must, blue Loctite doesn’t do it; it has to be the red.
Good DIY vid , can’t go wrong with a shifter mate , main bit of kit 👍
Absolutely Wayne I always carry one in the bike tool kit just in case. Thanks for watching mate👍
So true,Genuine parts seem expensive.
Untill you have to the job twice. I think people will this vid helpful. Nice one.
100% mate, hopefully it helps someone. Thanks for watching Ben👍
Great video. I use a socket to push seals in that way theres no twisting bending just slides in evenly.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks mate👍
Nice one curtis hope you get a good run out of this seal👍
Yeah mate finger crossed haha🤞
Good job its always good to solve a persistent problem, maybe look into acquiring a good quality torque wrench to your kit.
Yeah thanks Steven, iv got one just habit grabbing the shifter😅
Nice one mate - I really like these types of videos as this job is easily done and save plenty of $ in labor costs. Cheers bud
Thanks David, Glad it helped mate cheers👍
Thanks!! Super helpful!
@@VoxJ glad it could help mate👍
Back again Curtis, got the stripped screws out and rethreaded it so all good their mate thanks for the advice,but im currently having trouble getting the new seal into it as the previous owner had done zero maintenance on it causing the previous seal to come out in pieces. I already cleaned up,and I would like some advice on getting the new seal in please.
@@SlurpBadurp nice work mate. The new one should honestly push in with your thumbs or at least you can get it started in the correct position with your thumbs. There should be some resistance pushing it in so you may need to use the back side of a large socket against the seal and gently tap it in with a hammer. Just re-watch from 10:30 onwards it should explain everything you’ll need to know. Just make sure if you do decide to use a little bit of lubricant to install the seal only use a very small amount, you really want a good tight seal so it doesn’t leak👍
Way easier than on my old XL500R, the seal is installed from inside the crankcase, which had to be split once i removed the engine from the frame and stripped it down to the last nut and bolt. This was after i had pulled it to pieces a few months earlier to replace the counterbalance chain...
Damn what massive process, sounds a bit frustrating haha. Thanks for watching Richard👍
Great im restoring my 82 xl500r hope the seal is ok.
Get it fixed now and back out for a adventure next week. Just hit a cold streak here down south, maybe head straight back out for the Simpson?
Ah I wish I could it’ll have to be next year unfortunately. Luckily there’s plenty of other places on the list to go👌
Where did you reinstall that spring ring?
Definitely need to tension wrench that but
Knock on wood I’ve never had a leaky seal
Even after 76000kms
Did have that little o ring leak
Oil was weeping on the shaft it’s self
Wow bloody good mileage mate👌
how much should the slack be in chain ? please respond .
Between 25-35mm for memory
yeah just watched that video....I usually buy my bearings and seals for anything at a bearing dealer only....top quality...in fact the OEM number on the bearing is the same number on the other bearing.....never used and never will trust a bearing from a place that sells all kinds of bike stuff...never know where it comes from. FAG or Boston Gears are the big names around here. Great video....when are you heading for the Simpaon trip?
Yeah mate solid advice I’ll be doing the same from now on as well. We are planning to get back out there in a couple of months the Simo is shut during summer as temps get up to 50 degrees Celsius so they seem it too dangerous for tourists throughout that period. Not long though.
great mate--- does the drz have that retainer as standard??, cheers
@@thelonewolf666 yeah mate comes on them from factory👍
forums say to loctite the sprocket to the splines on countershaft?
Yeah mate go for it can’t imagine would hurt but tbh if you have installed the locking washer, put thread lock on the nut and fastened it tightly I don’t think it would really matter. Just my 2 cents👍
@@anotherguyonabike4726yeah but like nowhere says to loctite the nut. the locking washer should take care of that. the loctite fix is for the sprocket wearing down the splines, has nothing to do with the nut coming loose. sorry so many video tutorials forget to mention info or give wrong info, better to read online.
so i read some more and the "loctite fix" does not apply to the countershaft nut, but it's recommended to loctite all fasteners anyway. the locking washer on mine was shredded so would've been good insurance
Hey Curtis question for you, how’d you get the stripped JIS screws out? Did you use a speed out kid or something different?
@@SlurpBadurp hey mate, I started with a screw removal kit which tbh was shit. The screws were in that tight the tool snapped off in the head of the screw making it even hard to get out. I ended up getting a drill bit 1 size smaller then the actual screw thread and just carefully drilled it out. This only left a small amount of screw metal in the original thread which I then tapped allowing me to use the original thread in the engine case. Hope this helps man🤙
@@anotherguyonabike4726 Thank you so much for the advice because I just made that crucial mistake
@@SlurpBadurp no worries mate best of luck with it👍
Because I’m a child, all I heard was “ a little bit of lubricant and it’ll slide straight in “ 😊😊
I bet your working on your countershaft as well😅😂
Only a casual mention of the nut holding the sprocket coming undone, this is a BIG problem in my experience.
Thread lock a must, blue Loctite doesn’t do it; it has to be the red.
Yeah absolutely mate I used red on mine, blue just isn’t strong enough👍
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