As I understand it, it depends on your locale. Some require them to be recylced along with used oil. Some places it's not required. Some places like where I live it's not required and nobody will accept oil filters for recycling, so they just go in the trash.
1. Warm up the car a little - helps the oil flow 2. Chock the rear wheels. 3a. Replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug. 3b. Consider a valve like Fumoto if you do this a lot... 3c. Ideally the drain plug should be torqued to manufacturer spec. Do not over tighten. 4. After removing the filter: VERIFY: the gasket did not stick to the engine side. 5. Record the information in the owner's manual (date, mileage, oil brand, version, weight, filter brand-model) (Better: use a spreadsheet). 6. Consider sending a sample of oil to be tested to an oil testing lab. (Full disclosure: I never have). A nice thing about the ramps is that on some cars it actually helps get more oil out of the engine.
The main reason is so that you don’t have any oil leaks. The washer is a crush washer. This means that it can be this deformed depending on how much force you exert on the bolt to tighten it down. I have reused mine on several occasions. As long as you check the plug to confirm that you are not having leaks you should be OK. But since they’re under $.50, you likely should not take the chance and just replace them.
@@willpage79 Crush washers deform to provide a better seal and to provide a pressure that helps prevent the drain bolt from coming undone. Since it deforms, you cannot re-use it*. They are so cheap I just buy a bunch at a time. *If it's made of copper, heat it red and quench in cold water - then re-use. Don't see these on cars, however.
@@willpage79 Look at the bill - it should be on there. If not, ask why? IAC, if you do it yourself, do it right and replace the washer every time. Do not over tighten and if possible - use a torque wrench set correctly for your car - at least the first few times so you get a feel for it. It does not need to be on super tight. It's just holding itself in place to stop the oil - nothing else! Have fun!
I have the same drain pan, and found it works better if I open the vent before draining my oil. Otherwise, it seems like the oil doesn’t go in fast enough.
Fun fact. I had a job after high school where I had to drain stainless steel whey tankers. It was highly critical to open the manhole on the top of the tank before attempting to drain the tanker. Opening the manhole allowed air to displace the whey as the product flowed from the tanker. After I left, one of the newbies on the job neglected to open the manhole above the tanker. When he began pumping, a huge vacuum was created and the steel tube collapsed and ruined trailer. A very expensive mistake.
I have a quick question on this, I own a 2017 Corolla which calls for 4.5 quarts. But i forgot and poured all 5 quarts in. Will this be a problem?thank you and great video!
If you add too much oil to your car engine, the crankshaft can hit the oil and foam the oil, resulting in engine damage. Fortunately, no action is needed if the oil level is only slightly above. However, if you overfill it 0.2″ or more above the MAX mark, you may need to drain some of the oil. The engine oil reserve holds some extra oil to compensate for the fluid expansion due to hot conditions. Adding an extra half a quart will not damage your engine. However, anything more than that could be harmful to the engine.
Hi Reynaldo, personally, I have only used it for oil changes. However, if I needed to drain my transmission fluid, I would not worry about any oil residue. The amount of residue would be insignificant, and would not affect the ability to recycle the fluids, in my opinion.
Anyone use that drain pan with a high flow diesel? The first time I used it, I realized it wasn't draining into the hole fast enough and it over flowed. Mods? Advice?
Chilidog I use a cut down 5 gallon bucket , I did the same thing. 3 gallons out of a 6.7 Cummins comes out so fast I haven’t found a drain pan that works better.
Thanks for commenting. I have used Fram oil filters on all of my Hondas for over 30 years and NEVER had any issues. In fact, my 2006 Honda was at 200,000 miles when I sold it and it ran like a top and didn’t burn any oil. I'm not sure why anyone would suggest they're not any good.
@@BudsSmartHome Purolator has better oil filters for cheaper though, I prefer the Bosch’s which are marginally more expensive, but worth the cost difference since the manufacturer and model of filter is typically more important than the brand and type of oil, given the correct specs for the right application. But really, watch the videos, they are very surprising considering Fram sells the most filters
@@meaculpamishegas1121- I will review a couple of the videos so that I can make informed decisions going forward. I appreciate your concern and suggestion. Thank You! 😀
can get a lisle splatter shield that stops that, but it's around 30 bucks depending on where you get it from. it looks similar to those green scouring pads on dish sponges.
Good job. I had to do the same thing with my old steel ramps. So Honda really is 7,500 Mi. between oil changes? And ''their filter every other change.'' There is so much controversy now about when to change oil. I heard one Honda dealer respond by saying ''we will set the service due indicator where ever the customer wants it''.
Bud; You're welcome. Good point about the filter. Does you're Honda use or leak any oil? I purchased my 05 Accord 18 months ago when it had 39K mi on it. It now has 74K. I've been going by the Honda manual ( It's service records since new reflected every 7.5K mi by a Dealer) and was seeing a loss of about 3/4 of a quart between changes before I let Wall mart change it twice. Using there synthetic blend, hi mi. oil. The car stopped both leaking and using oil. You can laugh at this if you want to, but I have been reading a lot about Wall Mart's ST Oils and am convinced enough to switch over to them. I used Pennzoil for many years, but now it's pricey even at Wall Mart. never dreamed I would switch to a Wall Mart oil, but it is highly recommended by a growing amount of people, and much more economical. According to the American Petroleum Institute, all oils they have approved work about the same :)
And the same can be said with k&n oil filters...it has the tendency to leak from the seal. I know cuz it already happened twice when I used those filters.
No wheel chocks were used in this video. That's a critical safety feature omitted. I'd recommend their use
I always put tires chock or brick behind rear wheels, safer is always good
Also an excellent tip.
TSP. Tri sodium phosphate cleans oil off concrete really good as if it had not happened and it is cheap.
Besides checking parking brake would be extra safe to chock rear wheels.
What do you do with the oil filter? Do you put it in a zip lock bag and take it to the recycling center or auto zone?
As I understand it, it depends on your locale. Some require them to be recylced along with used oil. Some places it's not required. Some places like where I live it's not required and nobody will accept oil filters for recycling, so they just go in the trash.
1. Warm up the car a little - helps the oil flow
2. Chock the rear wheels.
3a. Replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug.
3b. Consider a valve like Fumoto if you do this a lot...
3c. Ideally the drain plug should be torqued to manufacturer spec. Do not over tighten.
4. After removing the filter: VERIFY: the gasket did not stick to the engine side.
5. Record the information in the owner's manual (date, mileage, oil brand, version, weight, filter brand-model)
(Better: use a spreadsheet).
6. Consider sending a sample of oil to be tested to an oil testing lab. (Full disclosure: I never have).
A nice thing about the ramps is that on some cars it actually helps get more oil out of the engine.
Whats the main reason to change the washer for the plug why u cant reuse it?
The main reason is so that you don’t have any oil leaks. The washer is a crush washer. This means that it can be this deformed depending on how much force you exert on the bolt to tighten it down. I have reused mine on several occasions. As long as you check the plug to confirm that you are not having leaks you should be OK. But since they’re under $.50, you likely should not take the chance and just replace them.
@@willpage79 Crush washers deform to provide a better seal and to provide a pressure that helps prevent the drain bolt from coming undone. Since it deforms, you cannot re-use it*.
They are so cheap I just buy a bunch at a time.
*If it's made of copper, heat it red and quench in cold water - then re-use. Don't see these on cars, however.
@@AlanTheBeast100 i was wondering because im going to start doing my own oil change and im pretty sure the oil place wasnt changing it
@@willpage79
Look at the bill - it should be on there. If not, ask why?
IAC, if you do it yourself, do it right and replace the washer every time. Do not over tighten and if possible - use a torque wrench set correctly for your car - at least the first few times so you get a feel for it. It does not need to be on super tight. It's just holding itself in place to stop the oil - nothing else!
Have fun!
I misread the header as 'Easter Oil Changes' so I did mine yesterday.
@@BudsSmartHome ;)
I have the same drain pan, and found it works better if I open the vent before draining my oil. Otherwise, it seems like the oil doesn’t go in fast enough.
Very true Dave.
@@BudsSmartHome I meant when I’m draining the oil from my car into the pan, in case I wasn’t clear with the reply.
Yes. I understood. Removing the plug facilitates the displacement of air in the oil pan’s reservoir, which allows the oil to drain at a faster pace.
Fun fact. I had a job after high school where I had to drain stainless steel whey tankers. It was highly critical to open the manhole on the top of the tank before attempting to drain the tanker. Opening the manhole allowed air to displace the whey as the product flowed from the tanker. After I left, one of the newbies on the job neglected to open the manhole above the tanker. When he began pumping, a huge vacuum was created and the steel tube collapsed and ruined trailer. A very expensive mistake.
Lol'ed real hard at the "4.5 q" on engine cover, must have been roasted before by the stupid jiffy places lol
Thanks for the video, appreciated.
Yes you have to watch those Jiffy guys! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment Mohammad.
I have a quick question on this, I own a 2017 Corolla which calls for 4.5 quarts. But i forgot and poured all 5 quarts in. Will this be a problem?thank you and great video!
If you add too much oil to your car engine, the crankshaft can hit the oil and foam the oil, resulting in engine damage. Fortunately, no action is needed if the oil level is only slightly above. However, if you overfill it 0.2″ or more above the MAX mark, you may need to drain some of the oil.
The engine oil reserve holds some extra oil to compensate for the fluid expansion due to hot conditions. Adding an extra half a quart will not damage your engine. However, anything more than that could be harmful to the engine.
How do you clean that oil pan between fluids? Or does it matter if you have say transmission fluid residue in oil recycling?
Hi Reynaldo, personally, I have only used it for oil changes. However, if I needed to drain my transmission fluid, I would not worry about any oil residue. The amount of residue would be insignificant, and would not affect the ability to recycle the fluids, in my opinion.
@@BudsSmartHome thanks because I have this same canister and you helped my concerns
Happy to assist
Anyone use that drain pan with a high flow diesel? The first time I used it, I realized it wasn't draining into the hole fast enough and it over flowed. Mods? Advice?
Chilidog I use a cut down 5 gallon bucket , I did the same thing. 3 gallons out of a 6.7 Cummins comes out so fast I haven’t found a drain pan that works better.
Also I always use oil treatment, and I put fuel treatment in gas tank
Very good tip. Thanks!
Great vid very very VERY informative!!!!😎😎😎 keep up the good work 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Why do y’all open that lil plug at the corner?? What is it for
Two words… Air displacement.
Watch all the videos of why to not use Fram filters, they always have rust in them straight off the shelf
Thanks for commenting. I have used Fram oil filters on all of my Hondas for over 30 years and NEVER had any issues. In fact, my 2006 Honda was at 200,000 miles when I sold it and it ran like a top and didn’t burn any oil. I'm not sure why anyone would suggest they're not any good.
@@BudsSmartHome Purolator has better oil filters for cheaper though, I prefer the Bosch’s which are marginally more expensive, but worth the cost difference since the manufacturer and model of filter is typically more important than the brand and type of oil, given the correct specs for the right application. But really, watch the videos, they are very surprising considering Fram sells the most filters
@@meaculpamishegas1121- I will review a couple of the videos so that I can make informed decisions going forward. I appreciate your concern and suggestion. Thank You! 😀
I put Coilovers on my subaru just to overcome the ramp!!! If only I saw this video first lol
Yeah this may have been a less costly and simpler solution for you. Thanks for watching and commenting
You are a lifesaver.
If the hot oil is that bit too thin, it bounces on the pan's trough and goes all over the floor.
can get a lisle splatter shield that stops that, but it's around 30 bucks depending on where you get it from. it looks similar to those green scouring pads on dish sponges.
Do you have a link to the clay mix used to cleanup the oil? Thanks
I just use common clay cat litter.
@@BudsSmartHome thanks.
You’re welcome Mike
Good job. I had to do the same thing with my old steel ramps. So Honda really is 7,500 Mi. between oil changes? And ''their filter every other change.'' There is so much controversy now about when to change oil. I heard one Honda dealer respond by saying ''we will set the service due indicator where ever the customer wants it''.
Bud; You're welcome. Good point about the filter. Does you're Honda use or leak any oil? I purchased my 05 Accord 18 months ago when it had 39K mi on it. It now has 74K. I've been going by the Honda manual ( It's service records since new reflected every 7.5K mi by a Dealer) and was seeing a loss of about 3/4 of a quart between changes before I let Wall mart change it twice. Using there synthetic blend, hi mi. oil. The car stopped both leaking and using oil. You can laugh at this if you want to, but I have been reading a lot about Wall Mart's ST Oils and am convinced enough to switch over to them. I used Pennzoil for many years, but now it's pricey even at Wall Mart. never dreamed I would switch to a Wall Mart oil, but it is highly recommended by a growing amount of people, and much more economical. According to the American Petroleum Institute, all oils they have approved work about the same :)
And Grandpa did say ''Oils cheaper than iron" :)
For the extra five bucks, I always change the filter with the oil. I believe in belt and suspenders.
@kirkhings - that’s very smart.
Don’t waste your time pouring used oil from drain pan. Just take the oil drain pan to the auto parts store to recycle.
Never use fram filters. Watch TH-cam videos and you will see why. Comes in 13th place out of 14 filters. And you pay as much or more for the fram.
And the same can be said with k&n oil filters...it has the tendency to leak from the seal. I know cuz it already happened twice when I used those filters.
Funny....Frame Ultra filters are the best in the market now.
@@johnsparkstwo The fram ultra is the the good filter... the original one and all the other fram filters suck.
Don’t use that crap oil and filter. Mobil 1 oil and filter is only like 12.00 more for both and is much better than what your using.
Thanks for commenting James.