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Isn't it funny that I used water injection way back in the late 70s on my custom-ordered 69 Chevy Caprice to increase the power of the radical engine my grandfather had built into his brand new Caprice. He ordered the Corvette 350 instead of the stock 350. Stated difference was 25 or 50 hp but they underclaimed the HP for these engines as we know. Then water injection kind of was forgotten about for the most part. Cheers
I'd be really interested to know what proportions of air/water you run with water only injection. I would like to work on a diy water injection system. Probably your kit sets the ratio automatically?
Can you, please, cover the topic of intercooler types and, especially, phase transition intercoolers. It's sad that 99% of people do not know that this system is relatively cheap, simple and can drop intake temperatures beyond ambient.
Probably one of the very few YT channels with over 1m subs yet no adverts, no bling , no corporate crap and no product placement. I’d say that’s a job well done 👍
An old mechanic I knew explained water injection to me in a slightly different way. If you ignite a fuel/air mixture, it expands itself by about 7 times, moving the piston... water being superheated (like in a steam engine) expands about 20 times... so, if you add water to the combusting air/fuel mixture, the water expands 20 times it's size and takes up room in the combustion chamber so it adds it's expansion to the air fuel expansion going on in the cylinder, which adds up to more bang. Funny story, after I learned this, I added a home made water injection to my Holden (Australia) V8 motor (similar to a small block Chev). I used a water bottle with a fish tank clear hose to a port on the carburettor, with an air valve (from a fish tank) to limit the flow of water. With the motor running, I adjusted open until steam was visible out of the exhaust then closed the valve until the steam was not showing any more. It worked well, had to fill the 5L water bottle every few weeks. A few years later, I rebuilt the engine and I realised the port on the manifold I had used only went to one side of the engine... so, one side head had intake runners, ports and valves were as clean as new, no carbon what so ever... the other side, the whole thing was as sooty as expected. The heads looked like they came from different engines. I recommend water injection on any car... more for longevity than ultimate performance... water injection is probably not yet successful because fuel companies can not (yet) make people pay for water... and using water would lower the fuel bill... so, that would be detrimental to fuel sales (so, better not encourage that) haha Greetings from Australia
The expansion ratios are completely irrelevant. What produces power is the AIR that gets expendanded, not the fuel or the water. Adding water to the air reduces the volumetric efficiency and power of an engine at the same operating point.
My father did this back in the '80s. Just fed it into the carburettor, rate controlled by a choke-style cable in the dash. Worked reasonably well so long as he remembered to adjust it when stopping. He was working on a new system, basically taking 4 cylinders of a V8 to have them run as a steam engine using the exhaust from the other 4 and injecting water. Had a weird manifold welded up to route said exhaust around but was really struggling with making the custom cam. Only so much you can do with a stick welder and a bench grinder :) A man of ideas, he was. The stuff he could have built with even half the tools I have now... his first job was lighting the boilers on locomotives. He knew steam. Bet he could have made it work with the right tools. Oh yeah, he did tell me about an earlier project he had... dual carbs on a gasoline engine, one normal and the other fed with jet fuel. Big old rod going through the dashboard to switch between the two. He'd switch to jet fuel once up to temperature and running down the highway. But, that was only because he was working on a airbase at the time and could steal all the jet fuel he wanted. Ran the house stove on it too (yeah... oil stove... long time ago). Anyway, thanks for the memories :)
WHAT?!?!!? I'd love to see even a somewhat working prototype of this SteamGas Engine. That's crazy!! Might work better with smaller pistons for the steam, though. Could put them closer to the chambers to help cool the gas cylinders. But man, that's a lot of moving parts.
@@korishan Not really any more moving parts... just extra plumbing. I was 15 at the time and, honestly, I can think of a few reasons why it wouldn't work today. But then I can't say I really understood all of what he was attempting. Like, he was modding the cam to open the valves every stroke, basically dual-lobbing them. Maybe that was how he intended on dealing with all the expanded exhaust from the IC side? Always 2 cylinders drawing in hot exhaust from 1 IC exhaust stroke, a 4-stroke IC feeding a 2-stroke steam plant. I could see the exhaust rotting away pretty quick... but then how much exhaust would it actually need? Anyway, not the first engine he had cut in half. There was the inline-6 cut down to 3 for the PTO planer truck that he used to finish the boards cut with the sawmill he built out of car parts. Or, the Damnation Ally style 6-wheeled stair-climbing hand-truck, or... man had a lot of faults but being stuck in a box was not one of them. Old-school Maker, though trained in HD and auto mechanics... he knew his stuff. People like that are still out there... like the ones that took a little OHC 4-cylinder engine, pulled the head off, and stuck an electric motor in its place. Basically driving the crankshaft and existing drivetrain with a motor as a cheap EV conversion. Good idea? Probably not, but they're running an inefficient EV while I'm still pushing an even more inefficient IC engine around. Credit where it's due.
The only reason running Jet A was any benefit was because he could get it "free". It's basically more refined diesel. I'm actually surprised it ran on it at all. Unless it was actually just avgas, which would make more sense.
@@rocketsurgeon11 Yup, just fancy kerosene. He worked at the base fire department and they had a pit full of barrels the plane mechs dumped, possibly contaminated fuel. Just something for the fire crews on practice days. He'd go out, crack open a barrel, soak a rag in it, and if he could get it to burn, he'd pump it into his second tank. And yes, he said it was a mess (lots of smoke, hard to start) if he forgot to turn it back to gasoline well before he had to stop. Only reason was because it was free (in that nobody cared if he snagged some). The main point was that he'd drain half that tank for the stove when he got home. Burned better in the stove. Oh, Churchill Manitoba... winter. Cold... like polar bear cold. Back in the days when the kitchen stove was the heat for the house and insulation was the snow drifting through the cracks in the walls. Said the top of that stove glowed red hot all winter. He lived off-base and had to drive to work and back, quite a ways he said. That was his routine: after work, snag some fuel, drive home, drain the tank to fill the stove, take the battery out of the car and put it on the oven door to keep it warm. In the morning, slide a cookie sheet of fuel under the oil pan of the car, on fire, put the battery back in, then start the engine. Drive to work. Got to park inside at work. No, I don't recommend the cookie sheet block heater thing with today's cars ;) Yeah... more essay answers. Sorry, memories.
There are a lot of different washer fluids out there. A shortcut to telling the alcohol percentage is to look at the freeze point. Where I'm at, you can buy summer washer fluid that freezes at the same point as water but has some detergents and crap to work on waxy bugs. The winter fluid will have more alcohol, and the really cold-weather winter fluid will have a bunch.
If your really hard up. The yellow heet bottles are 12oz of pure methanol. Theyre 2$ EA so you can buy a couple of those and distilled water and make your own water/meth mixture
it really is. when are you most going to need water injection? when it's hot. when are you most likely going to be running the AC? when it's hot. it's literally a water generator that really only runs when that water needs to be used! it's genius. Edit: oh! and there's another brilliant part. it's distilled water. condensation is literally distilled water, so there's never any concerns about that water having things that need to be filtered out, growth (algae) aside.
idk i think its a source for problems. What if the water mix with something else? imagine the airfilter have a hole and some insects will injected into the engine. Why they dont use some good old 5 litre watertank? This will work for weeks and the water is separated from everything else. What if you drive in winter? only dry air no more condense water. Put some Ethanol-water mixture and it will not even freece.
I love the idea, but, as an HVAC technician, have serious reservations about the reality. Car AC drains stop up fairly frequently due to sludge & slime. Even if the system is perfectly sealed and no unfiltered air hits the evaporator, no filter catches all particles. Let’s be honest: many-most in my personal experience-people are not good about changing filters on schedule. And, who hasn’t found leaves, bugs, or even a desiccated lizard in the bottom of their filter box? You’ll definitely need a filter for the condensate you collect-which will be another maintenance failure point. I’ll just put distilled water in my tank, thankyouverymuch. Mind, I’m sure manufacturers can figure it out & (mostly) get it past the warranty period, but I wouldn’t want to buy any of the first few years of production….
@@allanallansson9532 as an HVAC tech, I daily clean sludge from condensate drains & traps-and I’ve seen the crud in the pans of automotive systems. Dust finds a way in. My point is that one would want a secondary filter for the condensate, and that would need to be easily accessible
And if we can reduce NOx with water, cleaner top engine from use, and even cleaner still because it could potentially allow us to dropkick the EGR system into the trash where it belongs. Or at least use it solely for holding pressure and not for strangling the engine to cool it. (At least that's what a big part of EGR used to be...I'm getting old😋)
And with condensing the water from the exhaust gas, we could re-use it. Question would be, how much water could we inject and what could we get from this. So actually, what could a crazy tuner do if he doesn't care about water consumption? Water has a really nice expansion by transitioning to vapor, so I'm quite sure it is a part of the power increase or may become one, turning the engine into an internal combustion steam engine. Just a thought, I lack the experience in real working on engines or cars in general and a project car to test it myself.
@Appletank8 my first diagnostic in the field was egr stuck open causing rough idle. Egr opens at high throttle to cool combustion with non combustible exhaust gas to reduce nox emissions. Mazdas 2 stroke valved engine uses it at low for pressure maintenance but the dirty gasses at even lower Temps like this could potentially foul combustion chambers faster
Fun fact: 50-50 water-alcohol mixture (aka improved vodka) is not just optimal for the engine but is also great for celebrating the successfull dyno run.
Spoken like comrade from Soviet Union era. Upon Soviet return, we lift very big glass of vodka to honour the reawakening of quickest advancing nation on planet.
@@indridcold8433 Yes, so quick to advance, they managed to take 5% of Ucraine in about 1 year 😂 at this rate, Donbas will be taken in 30 years! Not joking
ha... did you make it to the end yet lol? but that's part of the goodness of this guy's stuff. he knows and knows how to use that knowledge. even that little shout out of annealing the copper gasket before installation.
@@bmxerkrantzQuick note, copper is the exact opposite of steel when it comes to annealing. Copper has to be heated it up and quenched. Only then it softens.
I'm NOT an Engineer not a Mechanic / Technician, (I'd LOVE to be one. Just an ER- MD here..). I'm actually wondering about this fact: "One (1 lt) of water, will expand as much as 1.6K - 1.75K times that when it becomes steam". (Relative to pressure affecting said water). I'd really appreciate if anyone clarifies this exact point, AND if this 'expansion' would affect the final power outcome. (IMHO, this topic deserves a Part #2). Thanks D4A for your in- depth reviews regarding topics (Almost..) nobody talks about!!. 😉💪🙏🙏🙏
I can tell u this, but it doesn´t answer your specific question: One can use this system for a single cycle, and re-use it in the next cycle, but this time without fuel. always alternating. In described 2nd cycle, the piston still turns the crank, cause of the water straining the cylinder-walls of their heat and expanding. In this case, where in every other cycle the water-mix doesn´t coincide with a combustion, one shouldn´t waste any combustible and expensive ethano/methanol, to mix it with the water, but instead, take pure water. How do the 2 types of expansion compare to each other powerwise??? No idea...
@@klausbrinck2137 the exact same rules apply, dude. If you don't have combustion and you're attempting to run the cylinder off of heat transfer from the cylinder material to the expansion material, then the expansion material stops expanding on its own when the exchange of heat energy stops. You've already gone through one cycle before this. Your idea would not work at all unless you don't allow for exhaust from that cylinder. Otherwise the cylinder would be largely devoid of expansion material as it would have been pushed out of the cylinder in the preceding exhaust stroke. You'd still have the intake and compression strokes if the intake valved opened and closed and that would then fill the cylinder with what, exactly? Just air? Air and water? The incoming air and water would cool the cylinder walls and the piston which are already being cooled by the cooling water and oil sprayed on the piston. It would make more sense to run the piston through an additional complete cycle without opening the intake or exhaust valves, to do two power strokes with the same intake charge. After the first power stroke you'd lose energy to the following exhaust and intake strokes, simply by heat transfer as you stated, you'd then have a compression stroke before the 2nd power stroke. Now your only problem is in managing the engine harmonics since the 2nd power stroke would be out of balance with the first. Multiply that problem by the# of cylinders and again by the # of cylinder banks. Or you can just use a turbo and recover some of the energy wasted by the first exhaust stroke. Use an intercooler and you'd recover some of the timing-advance lost by the fact that you've now heated the intake charge. Or you can use a turbocharged diesel-electric hybrid with an integrated high-voltage low-temperature power-distribution system. I think that's what Dr. Ferdinand Porsche used in his prototype Tiger tank in 1941.
It is the utter irrelevance of most of Mankind that leads us to stuff our heads with irrelevant shit. Like a drug addict buying more drugs. Still won't help to make our lives better. Meanwhile MIT graduates 3 classes each year that go right to the top of the scientific community.
@ivertranes2516 The fan may be extremely functional or near-useless, depending on the specifics of your car. For example, in my car, any intercooler gets mounted right in front of the radiator and AC condenser in a semi-ducted V-mount. One fan pulls through the whole stack, and you can turn it on manually with the AC controls (lol). If the intercooler is quite separate, and especially if airflow is questionable, a dedicated fan will be a huge improvement. The biggest thing you can do is make sure the air has a good escape route after it's passed through (eg. hood vents). If there's a high pressure zone behind any heat exchanger, air will go to great lengths to go around it. On some cars, you can put spray nozzles in front of a heat exchanger and never get it wet because the airflow is so bad. Fans brute-force the issue, but nothing beats natural airflow.
That doesn't really do anything for a consumer vehicle, and it does not solve heat soak related issues due to bad airflow. It is a small gain and mostly good for cleaning.
Jokes on you. My fuel already comes filled with water from the gas station pump 😂 Edit: Since so many people are not getting it right. Brazilian gas stations sell regular gasoline (which contains up to 15% anhydrous ethanol) and regular ethanol (which doesn't contain any gasoline) at least on paper. Who knows what actually happens.
Just add some alcohol in the gasoline and water will mix together and ends up inside the cylinder. Water wont even freeze in old carbutators demanding pre heat.
I used water / methanol injection with my 10.5:1 LS1 on hot summer days; running the A/C with 87 octane fuel and loaded with people. That worked much better than running 93 octane; which varied greatly in quality. 100+ race gas worked too, but was expensive per gallon. The methanol injection system was the cheapest way to daily drive that car in the summer. The cold air allowed 87 fuel during the winter, and no methanol was needed. An adjustment knob allowed me to fine tune the spray amount, as driving conditions changed or turn it off completely. I tapped the windshield washer tank for the reservoir. Held about 1 gallon and windshield washer fluid is cheapest during hot summer months. I would top it off when I filled the fuel tank; reservoir never ran empty. That system worked much better than trying to find decent high octane fuel; the quality is hit and miss while not stopping the detonation, just less detonation. Car still had no power and had to drive carefully to not sound like an Olds diesel. The methanol injection was capable of eliminating 100% of the detonation and restored about 80% of the hp; car could be driven like a normal automobile.
@@77garga I know that rakija is a thing in the Balkans, I have a Bulgarian gaming buddy who makes his own. But since 50:50 mixture of water and ethanol is essentially vodka, I wanted to make a joke about that.
I've had a Snow Perf H²O Injection System since 2014 and it has been amazing! Its on a '05 Ford 6.0l Diesel which has been carefully and systematically bullet-proofed and enhanced since 2009! Unfortunately, the truck itself has succumbed to the rigors of NW British Columbia's long, winding and very hilly highways, as well as snow (50% of the year) and rain (other 50%). BTW I'm now in the process of locating another '05 F350 SD Fx4 4wd Lariat to use as a donor truck to drop my engine, drivetrain, and yes the Snow System into! As long as the body and frame are in very good condition of course. Other than tuning, injectors, and turbo, the Snow Performance water injection has given me the most (noticeable) performance increase! And I've never had a problem with it either. As well, now when towing my EGTs are running in the green, when before the system, they were regularly running well into the red! I highly recommend the product.
Funny because I’m watching the video with the comments section open, while thinking about what vehicle I’d like to put water injection on. Thinking about cylinder head temps I thought about my aircraft engine on my airboat, then I start thinking about whether people use them on Diesel engines and here’s your comment. I am building a second airboat with a om606 Mercedes Diesel engine, also I have an 05 duramax, two ram Cummins trucks, and a bmw x5 diesel. Back in 2007 I had bought a cooling mist water injection kit for my Subaru sti but never got to install it because another kit came out that worked hand in hand with my ecu, unfortunately I never ended up buying that one so never gained that experience. So it’s something I’d like to experiment with.
@shidukirider Water injection was and still is one of the best upgrades I've made to my diesel truck! All Pros and zero Cons👍 I commented a while back in this thread with some more details of my experience with it if you're interested
@user-kb2bs9hy2v Hey. I appreciate the response, and I will keep you in mind. But, I've had a few other offers from Alberta Canada, which is next door to my Province of British Columbia! But, if they fall through I may be in touch. Thanks again! 🤝
You deserve every single one of your subscribers. I've got really into engine theory and engine maths recently, and this channel makes things so much easier to understand.
Time and again that water injection had been proven to be the golden solution to power gain, fuel efficiency, and reduction to emission. I don't know what exactly prevent mass-adoption of water injection in commercial engines. But it should be adopted.
Same thoughts…it might not RUN on water but the benefits are clear. What a miracle liquid, drink it, clean with it, grow food with it and make Gnarly Gainz on the dyno
Iirc the main issue is, just like steam engines, you use a ton more water than you use fuel, so you'd run out constantly if you didn't want to haul around several water barrels in the trunk.
@@Appletank8 What are you talking about? If you use more than 20% water to fuel mass ratio you're adding too much. In fact, research show that 10% is good enough, and 15-20% is ideal.
I read that water injection was part of the German Messerschmidt aircraft engine as an emergency power enhancing system, so they could save a couple pilots from crashing.
The American p47 thunderbolt had a water methanol injection system. Could push the engine to 2400 🐎. The ground crews would have to inspect the engine after each use.
@@dorianleclair7390 was it one of the first developments of the system in america before the war? or were they just surprisingly cautious/had a large stock of them?
MK11 WATER VAPOR INJECTION WORK REALLY WELL/CAME WITH ECO-BOOST TO MIX WITH FILTER WATER/I COULD THE ZIP-TORK AND INCREASE MPG-GOT 20-30 PERCENT BETTER MPG
As usual, you're able to explain what may appear to be esoteric into something understandable. As one comment or has said, water methanol was used in WW2 aircraft to eak out every horsepower. First by the germans because they didn't have access to the high octane fuel the allies did and then by the allies as well. With the exception of electronics almost every high performance feature in modern engines was tried and tested by aircraft engine manufacturers back in the 30s.
Mark I realize that you're trying to be scientific here but to be kind to you, you've obviously forgotten and left out plenty of mechanical advances in engines since the 1930s that was actually tried in the 1940s. That's why both the Allies and the Axis powers had jet and rocket based weaponry during WW2. Fielded. In combat. But yes you are right in that we are talking about technology that was well-developed in WW2. Not all of it. But some.
In 1963 Oldsmobile had an all aluminum 215 cu. inch V8 in 5 configurations , one of which had a 1 bbl carb and water/alcohol injection. Actually, I don't think it was injection, but rather a siphon deal at the carb. This engine produced the most h.p. at 215 h.p. , making 1 h.p. per cubic inch of displacement.
SAAB sold a water injection kit for the 99 Turbo and there you had to mix water with windshield washer fluid during winter, maybe even all year round. Think it added 20hp with raised boost. So from 145 to 165hp from a 2-litre engine which must have been really impressive in the late 1970's
the second mass production turbocharged car in the US, the 1962-1963 Oldsmobile F85 Jetfire, used a water/methanol injection system as well. It had some complicated vacuum control system that would bypass the turbo if your water/meth tank ran out so you didn't destroy the engine. They used aluminum 215 ci V8 engines and made a respectable for the times 218hp. The biggest downside of this system other than the complex vacuum safety system was the 215's overheating issues, likely exacerbated in this case by the extra power. All in all, they were cool cars but I'm glad my F-85 is a few years newer and has a naturally aspirated 330ci engine, less vacuum hose spaghetti to deal with and no need to homebrew a water/methanol/rust inhibitor cocktail of my own to make the turbo actually do something.
The power wasn't that special for a turbo-charger 2l. But saab was the first one with a nice to drive turbo without huge turbo lag and loads of down low torque.
@@gorkzop The car I drove in the driving school back in 70's was a turbo Saab. On one of the first lessons we stopped at the red lights and I forgot to change from 3rd to 1st gear (manual gearbox) - when the lights turned green we did proceed normally. The driving instructor pointed out my error stating quite laconically that in other cars that would not have worked.
LOL why must it have been? Impressive in the late 1970s was 400hp from a 1.5L naturally-aspirated engine. Still paled in comparison to 400ft-lbs of torque from a 7L engine. Because torque is what determines acceleration. HP only determines top speed. The gap between torque output for a 400hp 2L engine and a 400hp 7l engine is what has driven transmission development. You're talking about ww2 engines that were roughly 1800 cubic inches. The Packard-Bell Merlin in the P-51 was only 1600 CID and only produced 1300hp. The Japanese Zero radial engine also produced 1300hp. There are many chapters of engineering technology standing between the two engines. The quintisental WW2 fighter engine was the Double Wasp in the Vought F4-U that produced about 2000hp. I say that based on the fact that the F4-U remained in production into the 1950s. You're talking about engines under 2L, the discussion switches to high-revving engines, pre-turbo post-supercharger, for applications like motorcycle-racing and Indy-car, maybe F1 racing. You're diving into a pool that is way beyond your depth. Find another topic in which to pretend to be an expert.
I swear I just congratulated you two months ago for hitting 500k and now it's at 1M!! Well done, sir. Well deserved. Hopefully many million more to come. Thanks for all you add to the automotive world. WMI is very cool. I always wondered if the extra oxygen amounts to any extra power as well.
Water Injection works even better on a diesel engine, because it increases timing. I run a dual nozzle setup on my V70 2.4 D5 with selfmade intake pipes, which makes a lot of power!
@@peterkovacs233 Yes, i tuned it myself using KESS V2 and help from some forums. I even have a Stage 2 file, but i think that the automatic gearbox wont hold it. Even the engine mounts dont hold the torque, because two of them ripped of at a strong pull
im using ethanol Water Injection in my B58 running it 25tkm and its running absolutely fine. You can still read the QR Code on top of the piston and the sparkplugs are nearly white as a new sparkplug as i changed it.
I've toyed around with water injection systems over the years and one thing I noticed was my oil level dropped sooner when injecting water into the cylinders. I once ran out of oil on a long trip and sent a conrod through the block so do keep an eye out on oil levels.
That's because the water takes the carbon off the piston and the sides of the piston.The carbon builds up like a seal on the side of the piston to stop oil burning or blow pass. Carbon is good for sealing. If you want to clean the top end of your engine, a cup of water will clean all the carbon of the piston and valves.
@@robertblunden7160 yep the plugs are always very clean with water being injected and there is minimal carbon buildup. I think a small percentage of the oil also gets steam-cleaned out which is why the oil levels need to be monitored more often.
Some water gets in te sump, thin out the oil and add to the oil level, gets used as it lands on top of the piston, cleans the piston ring groves. This we do not want!.. etc.
As long as the water/meth system is working properly. Otherwise you’re looking at serious damage. Direct injection fuel systems would benefit tremendously keeping the carbon build up in check on the valves.
Next time: How to use water to clean the windows :) and yes, water injection is a nice trick! People who don't believe should ask themself, why your engine is running smoother and feel more potent when it's foggy outside. Some say, that the transformation from water to steam in the chamber adds also slight power.
My dad did this 45 years ago. We used the windshield wiper pump and reservoir to inject water/methional directly into the carb when the turbo was under boost.
@RobertBeck-pp2ru PSI is pounds pressure per square inch. The nozzle is only a tiny portion of a square inch. It only has to overcome the pressure that its nozzle area is subject to. Eg. 30Psi divided by 12 nozzles per inch. 144 squirter nozzle areas total per square inch. 30Psi÷144nozzles per square inch= 0.2psi is needed to be overcome.
Manufacturers always have a tradeoff, improved function vs higher complexity and cost. If it's government mandated, smog, they have to do it and the customer has to pay the cost. If it's not mandated, then will the AVERAGE customer be willing to pay for it. If not, then it won't go into mass production. Possibly the only manufacturer that could get away with it is Porsche.
world war 2 aircraft engines used water/glycol injection for take off and short term military power for same reasons. They had sodium filled valves and still needed extra cooling to prevent pre ignition.
I can click thumb up even before watching knowing that I did not make a mistake. A side note at 10:46. I doubt that ethanol is compressible in a sense as gas is compressible. It is a liquid after all. Theoretically it is a bit more compressible than water but for all practical purposes it is uncompressible. But it does evaporate faster than water, vapour is a compressible gas and it adds energy to combustion.
It's really a no brainer. Distilled water sales would increase, engines would make more power more reliably, exhaust would be cleaner, and less NOx would be produced. The cars are already running external electric water pumps, it's not like the hardware isn't already in the cars to do this. Run a few extra lines and another tank and you're good. Now you don't need auxilary port injection(since steam cleans the engine, which means fewer valve deposits), or you can convert the aux port injection for water/ethanol mix. David Vizard doesn't get enough credit, man is a genius.
i don't think it's a good mass market thing, id say most people wouldn't refill the water. And water is a scarce resource in a lot of places, especially distilled water. might do it in my own combustion engine through, if i have one.
Will not happen due to politics. All the focus is on EVs. The EV ideologues ignore advantages of any alternate technology while glossing over the disadvantages of EVs. Same for hydrogen, LPG and hybrids.
my grandpa told me he had a water injection system fitted to his old opel kadett carburator back in the day and it made more power and was more efficient. i was amazed by it and always wondered how it worked.
The whole objective of this is to have a cooler dencer intake air charge. since more air can be squeezed into the combustion chamber if it's cooler? which is also the idea for cold air intakes, which allows the engine to draw air in from a place. other than under hood heated air temperatures. and the added benefits are reduced pre ignition, and spark knock, and carbon removal. water injection has been around for quite a while. carburetor manufacturer Holley, first offered a water injection systems a number of years ago. however there can be a serious issue involved with water injection. and that is there's a thin line between enough water injected into the engine. and too much water injected into the engine. which will cause the engine to hydraulic virtually destroying the engine. because water doesn't compress like air.
We did this in the 70's with our air-cooled VW's. We put a windshield wiper tank and pump in the backseat with a hose to the top of the air cleaner. A manual switch turns on and off. We tested the cylinder temp with a sensor under a spark plug. Running at 70mph in LA heat could really cook those little 1600cc engines. We found temperatures reduced greatly, but no fuel or performance improvement regardless of the alcohol mixture. Pulling the heads off we were surprised how clean the pistons and exhaust valves were. We gave up on the project, but whenever someone came in for a tune-up, we ran the water spray for about 30 min on the highway and it removed a ton of knock and pinging.
I used to dink around trying to boost power and mileage with bolt-on mods on all my old cars including my 69 Bug. On the bug, the nicest, quick cheap combo I found was a homemade (plywood) air cleaner that used a paper element from a Plymouth Duster slant-six. The aftermarket had paper air cleaner conversion kits but they were extremely small filters and eliminated the velocity stack that was built into the OEM oil bath air cleaner. In the OEM design, the built in velocity stack was a great idea but the oil bath system was too restrictive. Eliminating the restriction by using a large paper air filter and fabricating my own velocity stack inside the air cleaner box, I then had a noticeable increase in power. The only other mods were that the car already had a cheaply rebuilt 1600cc engine with heads that had been milled a little too much, and a freer flowing "Monza" exhaust. With that combo I could bury the speedometer until it hit the peg past the 90 mph mark. I was pulled over by a sheriff one day & he asked me if I knew how fast I was going and I didn't have to lie when I said "no" because the speedometer was literally pegged. He said it was over 115 but started laughing for some reason and let me off with a warning. I was aware of water+alcohol injection and the engine would knock if lugged on a hot day, but I didn't get around to trying it. It was good enough already. After that I helped a buddy turn his gas guzzling 74 Trans AM w a 455 into a gas sipper by building an 11 to one 327 and swapping the automatic out for a manual and a taller rear end. We did put water+alcohol injection in that engine and the car would get 22 mpg in town and 27 on the highway. Not really good enough considering the amount of work put into it. He soon sold it and bought a VW rabbit which already got over 40 mpg without having to modify it. Then he had a head-on collision with a Plymouth Horizon. The driver of the Horizon had broken legs, my buddy in the rabbit was killed instantly. I later bought a Horizon and found out that Horizon/Omnis had HSLA steel frame rails when a Ford Escort hit me head on. The Escort was totaled but my Horizon had $250 of damage. I know that was long-winded but one thing kept leading to another. But in our quest for higher mileage and more power, safety was not a high priority.
Most (high end WW2) piston powered aircraft had water injection for take-off. That way, they could run at FULL power to get themselves off the ground. Neat that we can still use that system!
@@RazingthenRaising Nope, Nitrous was called GM-1 "Göring Mischung" Both systems where needed by the Axis forces beacause they had inferior fuel than the Allies...
@@tiboreeb5360 Yep. Amazing what they were able to do with what they had! I guess I'll have to double check my info. Either way, water injection was (still is?) VERY common on aircraft engines.
@@RazingthenRaising I dont think it was used other than for military application, and i dont think the systems that are on still airworthy warbirds are really being used today, but i may be wrong :) --- > and i was wrong, as it seems the injection was later used extensively in commercial jet aircrafts...
Water methanol or ethanol injection should be a feature on every forced induction production car. It not only reduces heat soak and increases engine efficiency, but it helps remove engine deposits and helps keep the catalytic converter clean. If used correctly, it can also significantly increase fuel economy.
"If used correctly" But that is the problem: Most people would not use it correctly and in that case it would just be added cost, complexity, weight and failure-points for no benefits. People are often too stupid to even fill up the right gas, let alone do regular oil-changes (the simplest maintenance), constantly refilling their car with clean water is way beyond them. Just imagine how many calls there to repair-services there would be cause somebody yet again put the water into their normal tank? I mean seriously i have seen somebody try to fill up their tesla at a normal gasstation.
@@ABaumstumpf you are so right! BMW is definitely on the right path in finding a self-replenishing water source in the vehicles for their water injection system.
@@ABaumstumpf You're generally correct, and automobiles have never been idiot proofed, even though they keep trying. However, they could design the system where it's integrated with the engine management system, have it generate a notification when it's time to refill, and make it as simple as adding washer fluid or gas.
Not anew idea. In the 1970s you could Buy similar system that was installed with a spacer under the Carby in the Intake Manifold. A small 'Jet' that allowed water injection in under High Vacume/Suction. Dropped off slightly under Acceleration. Claimed to clean out Carbon build up as well.
Now I'm a junior tuner because of your videos and explanations! Thanks a lot. I started last year my business tunning Toyota ecu/remap, learned too much from you. Thanks again.
I saw a cool system on a turbo corvair once. It used the positive manifold pressure fed to the top of the water tank (one way valve) to automatically inject water under boost. Water/ethanol injection was used back in WWII airplanes on both sides.
That is a beautifully simple proportional flow implementation. If it's feeding pre-turbo nozzles or nozzles located after a venturi, it's effectively a set and forget system.
I want to add water meth injection to my little 1.6 HDI, and it might also help de-carbonizing the engine and intake components (PCV+EGR= wacky slugde)
@@xxcookiethecatxx2759 yeah, I'm planning on deleting all the emissions stuff like the DPF, and I already got a better intake on it, and I want to flash the ECM with a bit more aggressive tune.
my best friend's dad was a Genius for Gen. Dynamics.... in 1968 he put water injection into his 1960 Volvo PV544... I still remember that !!! Great discussion. !!
It would be good to do a video on the different solutions available to make the intercooler work efficiently. Better ducting of air in and out. Adding a fan for slow traffic. Relocate the intercooler. Add an air to water intercooler with the heat sink in the nose or boot.
The insidious thing most modern engines do is to pull timing the instant the knock sensor thinks it detects knock. I inject water/methanol (cheap windshield washer fluid) with an aquarium pump and 20 gauge needle to prevent this and get as much as 20% more mileage from 5 to 10% ratio to fuel injection. More than that and millage drops off, but I don't have access to tweaking timing. My Toyota maxes at 40 degrees BTDC and my Subaru maxes at 42 degrees. This is for economy, not power under constant highway load.
I had a diesel truck that would overheat when we towed our RV in the Rocky Mountains. A 15-gallon tank, 12v water pump, cheap 1/4" irrigation tubing, and a few plant misters took care of the overheating issue. The mister nozzles sat behind the grille and in front of the radiator. It was cool to see how quickly the misted water would bring the temperature down.
The Boost Cooler only injects at higher boost pressure. And you anyway shouldn´t drive your turbo engine hard before parking. We never saw a rusty engine in 20 years from our customers.
I have been reading multiple studies about water injection in modern engines. Seems to be really exciting and a lot of promise. Mostly it seems to be aimed towards reducing NoX emissions.
could you share some links? It´d take me days to find them myself...I often read a publication for hour, before finding out, that it wasn´t the one I needed/was looking for.
Excellent video and explanation. And to think, turbochargers, superchargers, inter coolers, and water injection were developed and deployed 80 years ago in high performance piston airplanes.
In the early 1960s Buick and Oldsmobile used an optional all aluminum 215ci/3.5L turbocharged engine (later sold to Rover and has been developed into the aluminum V8 you see in their products today) I put the Oldsmobile variant of the 215 (set back in the engine bay) in a stripped out 1970 Datsun 510, with 180 degree headers and a box flair kit. Painted it painted it with a BRE paint scheme and drove it on the street. A VERY capable machine! 😊
FYI, in SE Asia countries and Brazil, we use up to E85 (85% ethanol mixed with 15% gasoline) in gasoline engine. In Thailand, the options are E5, E10, E20, and E85. Most of the recent gasoline car must be tuned to accept at least E10 (but they generally tuned to accept E20, for example the 2NR-VE in toyota yaris cross AC200).
My dad told me that in the soviet union the farmers put a bottle to drop water in the air intake one drop at a time to increase mileage and help cool the engine. Idk if it was real tho
This was used a lot in WW2 aircraft engines. With water injection, R2800 C series can increase power from 2280hp to 2850hp on the ground. If its in the air with ram air from aircraft speed, the engine power with water injection can go over 3200hp.
I'm sure you're already aware, but one other possible benefit of H2O injection is combustion cylinder pressure. It's probably negligible compared to the rest of the benefits. But one could hypothesize that any miniscule amount water inside the cylinder that hasn't been completely vaporized yet, will turn into steam once ignition occurs. And water has a 1700:1 expansion ratio. Anyway, great video as always!
Energy that turns water into steam is huge, so it reduces pressure at the same time because temperature is lower. So it cancels out basically, you use a bit more gas to boil the water
@@blubbersprudel Really??? Why is it then, that commercial water-injection kits are made to inject the water BEFORE the turbo, if the turbo doesn´t burn ??????????? ;-)
It is. I only wonder if it produces a sufficient quantity of water. Seems it would be very dependent on the climate in which the car is driving. Living in the desert, there isn't a lot of moisture in our air for the A/C system to condense water from.
Ive been using sno performance injection in my class 8 semi's for about 10 years. These big diesels really come alive o this stuff. So much that my bone stock c13 out pulled even 600hp c15s. Also, it SIGNIFICANTLY assisrs the cooling of the engine. Very impressive stuff, wouldn't run my semi without it. It SIGNIFICANTLY reduces EGTs, and that extra heat that was going out the exhaust pipe is used to push the piston down much harder.
The water takes up space and raises compression ratio. Also, it can be used in higher temp to clean the valves and piston face. I wonder what would happen if you used peroxide
"I Inject Water Into My Engine and Make More Power" In 99,9% i would not even Klick on a Video with that Title. But in your Case, i saw that Video, read the Title, and asked myself: "Wow, how did he made this?"
Yeah, first time I see someone using water properly and not some kind of "let's just use water and it will become vapor in the chamber and create pressure" nonsense we usually see on old atmospheric cars
@@Alphaj01 old atmospheric cars: if u mean naturally aspirated engines, they also can still profit: By re-building the cylinder head, compression-ratio would rise, and then, water/methanol helps. would be helpfull, especially for 2strokes, since they´re so easy to re-build towards higher CR.
Glad to you guys are doing well. I was in Germany "up-range" as a C-17 mechanic during the Bosnian War. We were housed in condemned dorms, with no heat, on Rhein-Main Air Base in January. It sure gets cold up there. Bosnia looks like a nice place with those mountain views.
One more thing about ethanol, it works as an anti-freeze in winter. That is important in cold climates. I water injection on my 1973 Mazda RX-2. Perhaps there was not the benefit that you would expect from a piston engine, but it didn't hurt anything and probably took some heat out of the combustion chamber when the engine was full throttle. And on a rotary, that combustion chamber doesn't get a cooling intake charge so to me, it seemed to work. The cost was so cheap to set this up. A vacuum switch, a nozzle, a pump and some tubes. Good video.
In Brazil, since the end of 1970's and the very beginning of 1980's brazilian drivers have ethanol available at the gas station pumps. This is not a "pure" ethanol, but a mix of 95% of ethanol and a 5% of water. All the engine tuners in Brazil have discovered huge amounts of power and torque since then. Just as example, brazilian aircooled VW Beetles from firrst half of 1980's came from factory with gasoline only engines (7,5:1 compression and 45hp @ 4000 rpm), or ethanol only engines (11:1 compression ratio and 57hp @ 4200 rpm). I highgly recommend you all to learn more about the brazilian experiencie, and to know about Proalcool Program from the 1970's. 😉
WOW! Mate, you explain questions I sort of hadn't thought to ask, in a very understanding way. Mi Dad worked on aircraft engines in WW2, Rolls Royce trained, so I was brought up with the basics of the time. You my friend, are updating me, for which I am grateful. Had a wee water injector thing in the 70s. Trouble was that the flow control was basically a tiny tap under the bonnet, dripping water into the intake manifold lol. Keep up with the vids and thank you.
Awesome tech videos. Thank you. Q1. Will this work with Turbo Diesel Engines? 2. Carbon buildup with newer direct injection motors is a big issue and this seems to be a great solution. Keep up the good work
Yes and no. Lets look at what might happen: Water will not mix with oil easily, oil is put on the cylinder wall and also removed by the piston rings, they seal the chamber from burning oil and from injected fuel leaking into the oil system, so in theory they will also seal off the water from going into the engine oil. Since no seal is perfect, every engine will burn minuscule amounts of oil (except VWs they burn a bit more) so the water/ethanol mix might slowly creep into the engine oil as well, ethanol being a great solvent might make the oil thinner (same as when your fuel mixes with oil) while the water will emulsify with the oil eventually into the ever beloved cursed foamy caramel pudding from hell. Because of that, it might make make oil change intervals shorter, which isn't a bad thing per se. If that happens to be introduced into the mass production cars its certainly a thing thats going to be tested on the customer. Corrosion is another topic. I doubt it will be an issue since the water-ethanol mix is short lived inside the engine and most modern intake manifolds are made from lightweight and corrosion proof polymers. The water evaporates (being innate) and leaves through the exhaust system while the ethanol burns. The water might even have a positive effect on emissions as the bad parts NOx are the Dioxides (NO2). There will be more NO2 the hotter the whole combustion gets, so by cooling the chamber effectively you can reduce NO2 emissions.
@@haku1155 thanks for your input. However I am still a bit concerned. Water does not dissolve much in oil, true, but it may emulsify. As for its evaporation, certainly that happens, but I suppose it is a matter of rates. If water does not get removed at a fast-enough pace, I suppose it could lead to accumulation in the crankcase and there I am not so sure every thing is corrosion-proof. Also it is true as you say that NOx can be reduced, but water can increase oxidation of the oil, which may lead to faster than normal replacement. I am not sure, if that is the scenario, that people will be so happy to change the lubricant. But , I guess that this is taken into account by whoever company believes in this technology.
If you are one who constantly "gets on it" at every light or straight away, you will no doubt begin to see a coffee colored slime on the underside of your oil filler cap. It's a warning sign to change your oil. If you use full power only occasionally, say for merging into freeway traffic, most of the water vaporizes away in normal driving. Even so, it's a good idea to shorten the oil change intervals if you equip your engine with water injection.
Hey wanted to share a tip I picked up for boost hoses that like to pop off. I found, if you wire wheel the area that the silicone meets the aluminum pipe, not only will the hoses never separate, but you'll have to run a pic around the silicone before removing it the next time. It's that tight! Some people say hair spray and I'm sure they're are a ton of other options people will suggest... I personally just found this to be a very low cost, super effective solution.
This was used on rally cars I worked once for Solex. Water is injected at the end of combustion to cool the gas and increase the pressure. The main issue to be used in daily driving cars is the rust. It is also possible to inject by ultrasound pulverisator with precise droplets size so that the gas mixture first ignites, then vaporizer the water at high pressure and temperature.
Honestly, coolest part about watching this is that this technology came about for use in fighter aircraft during ww2, and now it's just applied to automobiles as a hobbyist project. Ethanol-water injection into your engine was a typical method of implementing an 'emergency power' system in high horsepower aircraft like the F4U corsair that would grenade if they were pushed up to any higher level of supercharger boost, and was also one of the means by which a P51 mustang could achieve such heinous levels of acceleration.
I tried water injection many years ago with my Micra. The conclusion was there is not a big difference but when I took off the head of engine I was really surprised. It was so clear inside!
I was doing that back in the 1980's on my mitsubishi sigma 2.6 astron engine pre turbo impeller for atomisation. Then again from 2002 on my Possium Borne WRXSTi 2.5 I still have the Possium WRX this very day. The water injection works by a pressure switch when boost is starting to be made through a fuel injector linked to my after market ECU Link developed by Possium before hus tradgic death at a NZ rally event while pre survey of track. RIP PB 30 APR 2003
This is brilliant. I had a 1984 MR2 when based in Okinawa in 1992-1995. Steering wheel was on the right side. Shifted with left hand. It was modified with a Turbo. So regretful I didn't bring the MR2 back with me to the states. That was the most fun-driving car I have ever owned.
Twenty-five years ago I made a water injector for my deteriorating '72 Pinto. The engine had 90,000 miles on it and was very weak. Using materials I bought mostly from Wal Mart's aquarium department and costing under twenty bucks, it took me one day to build. No pumps or electrical connections needed. The power increased significantly and I put a couple thousand more miles on it before deciding it needed to be junked because of all its other problems.
petrol and diesel are incompressible liquids too The fact is irrelevant because nothing enters a correctly functioning engine's cylinder in the form of a bulk liquid, other than when the vehicle is submerged for some reason.
Ran that set up on a supercharged Tacoma for 140,000 miles. Worked great. It added a fair bit of hp on the dyno, but allowed me to tune without detonation, most importantly.
I always wondered what they meant by "Water-Methanol injection" when talking about old fighter planes. - This explains it much more clearly than a lot of articles I've read :)
Here in the states, we can buy E-85 gas, (85% ethanol, cheaper than 87 octane) and mix it with 87 and water (distilled). Some guys use it in n.a. engines, but the real benefit of the mix goes to turbo engines with intercoolers and a quality control unit. Excellent topic Drivin.
If you are doing pure water injection, I’ve found spraying the intercooler externally with another nozzle while also injecting water into the intake ramps up the cooling significantly further.
Awesome job! Totally agree that water injection should be way more common. It's not on commercial production vehicles because water freezes and expands. That problem would require air purging of lines every time the vehicle turns off and before the temperatures in those lines gets close to freezing and/or an alcohol mixture. If part of an essential tune, the engine might be damaged WHEN the fluid runs out. People would most definitely NOT take care of it properly and warranty costs would be enormous for the manufacturer.
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Isn't it funny that I used water injection way back in the late 70s on my custom-ordered 69 Chevy Caprice to increase the power of the radical engine my grandfather had built into his brand new Caprice. He ordered the Corvette 350 instead of the stock 350. Stated difference was 25 or 50 hp but they underclaimed the HP for these engines as we know. Then water injection kind of was forgotten about for the most part. Cheers
I'd be really interested to know what proportions of air/water you run with water only injection. I would like to work on a diy water injection system. Probably your kit sets the ratio automatically?
In my teens, I read of how tractor pulls will run staged turbos with water injection.
This thrills me
Can you, please, cover the topic of intercooler types and, especially, phase transition intercoolers. It's sad that 99% of people do not know that this system is relatively cheap, simple and can drop intake temperatures beyond ambient.
What happens at winter? Does water freeze in the system and require some special heating to start the engine?
Probably one of the very few YT channels with over 1m subs yet no adverts, no bling , no corporate crap and no product placement.
I’d say that’s a job well done
👍
Just forget about the alfadan debacle
The hell? He himself said he is sponsored by AEM and had their product placenent many times
@@stasisthebestThe product placement is so blatant I guess they didn’t notice? 😂
The whole video is an ad for water injection
The whole video is an ad for ugly/shotty electrical tape training
An old mechanic I knew explained water injection to me in a slightly different way. If you ignite a fuel/air mixture, it expands itself by about 7 times, moving the piston... water being superheated (like in a steam engine) expands about 20 times... so, if you add water to the combusting air/fuel mixture, the water expands 20 times it's size and takes up room in the combustion chamber so it adds it's expansion to the air fuel expansion going on in the cylinder, which adds up to more bang. Funny story, after I learned this, I added a home made water injection to my Holden (Australia) V8 motor (similar to a small block Chev). I used a water bottle with a fish tank clear hose to a port on the carburettor, with an air valve (from a fish tank) to limit the flow of water. With the motor running, I adjusted open until steam was visible out of the exhaust then closed the valve until the steam was not showing any more. It worked well, had to fill the 5L water bottle every few weeks. A few years later, I rebuilt the engine and I realised the port on the manifold I had used only went to one side of the engine... so, one side head had intake runners, ports and valves were as clean as new, no carbon what so ever... the other side, the whole thing was as sooty as expected. The heads looked like they came from different engines. I recommend water injection on any car... more for longevity than ultimate performance... water injection is probably not yet successful because fuel companies can not (yet) make people pay for water... and using water would lower the fuel bill... so, that would be detrimental to fuel sales (so, better not encourage that) haha Greetings from Australia
Steam expands 1700 times from a liquid to a gas.
The expansion ratios are completely irrelevant. What produces power is the AIR that gets expendanded, not the fuel or the water. Adding water to the air reduces the volumetric efficiency and power of an engine at the same operating point.
@@djole02 ?
@@RichardColeman-b6t Which part you don't understand? The expansion ratios or the adding of water?
@@djole02 if the expansion ratios are irrelevant, then why do steam engines work?
My father did this back in the '80s. Just fed it into the carburettor, rate controlled by a choke-style cable in the dash. Worked reasonably well so long as he remembered to adjust it when stopping. He was working on a new system, basically taking 4 cylinders of a V8 to have them run as a steam engine using the exhaust from the other 4 and injecting water. Had a weird manifold welded up to route said exhaust around but was really struggling with making the custom cam. Only so much you can do with a stick welder and a bench grinder :)
A man of ideas, he was. The stuff he could have built with even half the tools I have now... his first job was lighting the boilers on locomotives. He knew steam. Bet he could have made it work with the right tools.
Oh yeah, he did tell me about an earlier project he had... dual carbs on a gasoline engine, one normal and the other fed with jet fuel. Big old rod going through the dashboard to switch between the two. He'd switch to jet fuel once up to temperature and running down the highway. But, that was only because he was working on a airbase at the time and could steal all the jet fuel he wanted. Ran the house stove on it too (yeah... oil stove... long time ago).
Anyway, thanks for the memories :)
best essay comment yet
WHAT?!?!!? I'd love to see even a somewhat working prototype of this SteamGas Engine. That's crazy!!
Might work better with smaller pistons for the steam, though. Could put them closer to the chambers to help cool the gas cylinders.
But man, that's a lot of moving parts.
@@korishan Not really any more moving parts... just extra plumbing. I was 15 at the time and, honestly, I can think of a few reasons why it wouldn't work today. But then I can't say I really understood all of what he was attempting.
Like, he was modding the cam to open the valves every stroke, basically dual-lobbing them. Maybe that was how he intended on dealing with all the expanded exhaust from the IC side? Always 2 cylinders drawing in hot exhaust from 1 IC exhaust stroke, a 4-stroke IC feeding a 2-stroke steam plant.
I could see the exhaust rotting away pretty quick... but then how much exhaust would it actually need?
Anyway, not the first engine he had cut in half. There was the inline-6 cut down to 3 for the PTO planer truck that he used to finish the boards cut with the sawmill he built out of car parts. Or, the Damnation Ally style 6-wheeled stair-climbing hand-truck, or... man had a lot of faults but being stuck in a box was not one of them. Old-school Maker, though trained in HD and auto mechanics... he knew his stuff.
People like that are still out there... like the ones that took a little OHC 4-cylinder engine, pulled the head off, and stuck an electric motor in its place. Basically driving the crankshaft and existing drivetrain with a motor as a cheap EV conversion. Good idea? Probably not, but they're running an inefficient EV while I'm still pushing an even more inefficient IC engine around. Credit where it's due.
The only reason running Jet A was any benefit was because he could get it "free". It's basically more refined diesel. I'm actually surprised it ran on it at all. Unless it was actually just avgas, which would make more sense.
@@rocketsurgeon11 Yup, just fancy kerosene. He worked at the base fire department and they had a pit full of barrels the plane mechs dumped, possibly contaminated fuel. Just something for the fire crews on practice days. He'd go out, crack open a barrel, soak a rag in it, and if he could get it to burn, he'd pump it into his second tank. And yes, he said it was a mess (lots of smoke, hard to start) if he forgot to turn it back to gasoline well before he had to stop. Only reason was because it was free (in that nobody cared if he snagged some). The main point was that he'd drain half that tank for the stove when he got home. Burned better in the stove.
Oh, Churchill Manitoba... winter. Cold... like polar bear cold. Back in the days when the kitchen stove was the heat for the house and insulation was the snow drifting through the cracks in the walls. Said the top of that stove glowed red hot all winter. He lived off-base and had to drive to work and back, quite a ways he said. That was his routine: after work, snag some fuel, drive home, drain the tank to fill the stove, take the battery out of the car and put it on the oven door to keep it warm. In the morning, slide a cookie sheet of fuel under the oil pan of the car, on fire, put the battery back in, then start the engine. Drive to work. Got to park inside at work. No, I don't recommend the cookie sheet block heater thing with today's cars ;)
Yeah... more essay answers. Sorry, memories.
Basic windshield washer fluid is 49/51 methanol/distilled water. A lot of people plumb right from the washer fluid reservoir.
There are a lot of different washer fluids out there. A shortcut to telling the alcohol percentage is to look at the freeze point. Where I'm at, you can buy summer washer fluid that freezes at the same point as water but has some detergents and crap to work on waxy bugs. The winter fluid will have more alcohol, and the really cold-weather winter fluid will have a bunch.
If your really hard up. The yellow heet bottles are 12oz of pure methanol. Theyre 2$ EA so you can buy a couple of those and distilled water and make your own water/meth mixture
18:55 reusing water from the AC condenser for this purpose is honestly brilliant!
it really is. when are you most going to need water injection? when it's hot. when are you most likely going to be running the AC? when it's hot. it's literally a water generator that really only runs when that water needs to be used! it's genius.
Edit: oh! and there's another brilliant part. it's distilled water. condensation is literally distilled water, so there's never any concerns about that water having things that need to be filtered out, growth (algae) aside.
idk i think its a source for problems. What if the water mix with something else? imagine the airfilter have a hole and some insects will injected into the engine.
Why they dont use some good old 5 litre watertank? This will work for weeks and the water is separated from everything else. What if you drive in winter? only dry air no more condense water. Put some Ethanol-water mixture and it will not even freece.
I love the idea, but, as an HVAC technician, have serious reservations about the reality. Car AC drains stop up fairly frequently due to sludge & slime. Even if the system is perfectly sealed and no unfiltered air hits the evaporator, no filter catches all particles. Let’s be honest: many-most in my personal experience-people are not good about changing filters on schedule. And, who hasn’t found leaves, bugs, or even a desiccated lizard in the bottom of their filter box? You’ll definitely need a filter for the condensate you collect-which will be another maintenance failure point. I’ll just put distilled water in my tank, thankyouverymuch. Mind, I’m sure manufacturers can figure it out & (mostly) get it past the warranty period, but I wouldn’t want to buy any of the first few years of production….
The water condenses on the evaporator (the cold side) of the AC, not on the condensor (the hot side).
@@allanallansson9532 as an HVAC tech, I daily clean sludge from condensate drains & traps-and I’ve seen the crud in the pans of automotive systems. Dust finds a way in. My point is that one would want a secondary filter for the condensate, and that would need to be easily accessible
Cooler combustion chamber means reduction in NOx emissions as well!
Yes!
And if we can reduce NOx with water, cleaner top engine from use, and even cleaner still because it could potentially allow us to dropkick the EGR system into the trash where it belongs. Or at least use it solely for holding pressure and not for strangling the engine to cool it. (At least that's what a big part of EGR used to be...I'm getting old😋)
EGR functioning properly is supposed to only to activate at low throttle
And with condensing the water from the exhaust gas, we could re-use it.
Question would be, how much water could we inject and what could we get from this. So actually, what could a crazy tuner do if he doesn't care about water consumption? Water has a really nice expansion by transitioning to vapor, so I'm quite sure it is a part of the power increase or may become one, turning the engine into an internal combustion steam engine. Just a thought, I lack the experience in real working on engines or cars in general and a project car to test it myself.
@Appletank8 my first diagnostic in the field was egr stuck open causing rough idle. Egr opens at high throttle to cool combustion with non combustible exhaust gas to reduce nox emissions. Mazdas 2 stroke valved engine uses it at low for pressure maintenance but the dirty gasses at even lower Temps like this could potentially foul combustion chambers faster
Fun fact: 50-50 water-alcohol mixture (aka improved vodka) is not just optimal for the engine but is also great for celebrating the successfull dyno run.
Yes, ethanol…..methanol on the other hand you don’t want to drink. 😂
Spoken like comrade from Soviet Union era. Upon Soviet return, we lift very big glass of vodka to honour the reawakening of quickest advancing
nation on planet.
@@indridcold8433 Yes, so quick to advance, they managed to take 5% of Ucraine in about 1 year 😂 at this rate, Donbas will be taken in 30 years! Not joking
@@jaynikk758western corporations have purchased more land in Ukraine since the war started than the Russians have taken by force.
this is the content I love to see on youtube! quick and clean installation, and straight to the numbers afterwards.
Yes, exactly this is how it should be. @driving4answers please keep doing this. It is very much appreciated.
No delaying of gratification for you?
ha... did you make it to the end yet lol?
but that's part of the goodness of this guy's stuff. he knows and knows how to use that knowledge. even that little shout out of annealing the copper gasket before installation.
Agee
@@bmxerkrantzQuick note, copper is the exact opposite of steel when it comes to annealing. Copper has to be heated it up and quenched. Only then it softens.
I'm NOT an Engineer not a Mechanic / Technician, (I'd LOVE to be one. Just an ER- MD here..). I'm actually wondering about this fact: "One (1 lt) of water, will expand as much as 1.6K - 1.75K times that when it becomes steam". (Relative to pressure affecting said water). I'd really appreciate if anyone clarifies this exact point, AND if this 'expansion' would affect the final power outcome. (IMHO, this topic deserves a Part #2). Thanks D4A for your in- depth reviews regarding topics (Almost..) nobody talks about!!.
😉💪🙏🙏🙏
I can tell u this, but it doesn´t answer your specific question: One can use this system for a single cycle, and re-use it in the next cycle, but this time without fuel. always alternating. In described 2nd cycle, the piston still turns the crank, cause of the water straining the cylinder-walls of their heat and expanding. In this case, where in every other cycle the water-mix doesn´t coincide with a combustion, one shouldn´t waste any combustible and expensive ethano/methanol, to mix it with the water, but instead, take pure water. How do the 2 types of expansion compare to each other powerwise??? No idea...
The steam expanding wound increase cylinder pressure. Which should increasing power. Not sure how much increase though.
@@klausbrinck2137 : Thanks for the insight on thermodynamics!!.
😊🙏
@@klausbrinck2137 the exact same rules apply, dude. If you don't have combustion and you're attempting to run the cylinder off of heat transfer from the cylinder material to the expansion material, then the expansion material stops expanding on its own when the exchange of heat energy stops. You've already gone through one cycle before this. Your idea would not work at all unless you don't allow for exhaust from that cylinder. Otherwise the cylinder would be largely devoid of expansion material as it would have been pushed out of the cylinder in the preceding exhaust stroke. You'd still have the intake and compression strokes if the intake valved opened and closed and that would then fill the cylinder with what, exactly? Just air? Air and water? The incoming air and water would cool the cylinder walls and the piston which are already being cooled by the cooling water and oil sprayed on the piston. It would make more sense to run the piston through an additional complete cycle without opening the intake or exhaust valves, to do two power strokes with the same intake charge. After the first power stroke you'd lose energy to the following exhaust and intake strokes, simply by heat transfer as you stated, you'd then have a compression stroke before the 2nd power stroke. Now your only problem is in managing the engine harmonics since the 2nd power stroke would be out of balance with the first. Multiply that problem by the# of cylinders and again by the # of cylinder banks.
Or
you can just use a turbo and recover some of the energy wasted by the first exhaust stroke. Use an intercooler and you'd recover some of the timing-advance lost by the fact that you've now heated the intake charge.
Or you can use a turbocharged diesel-electric hybrid with an integrated high-voltage low-temperature power-distribution system. I think that's what Dr. Ferdinand Porsche used in his prototype Tiger tank in 1941.
It is the utter irrelevance of most of Mankind that leads us to stuff our heads with irrelevant shit. Like a drug addict buying more drugs. Still won't help to make our lives better. Meanwhile MIT graduates 3 classes each year that go right to the top of the scientific community.
You can also spray water over the intercooler.
GD generation Impreza WRX STi had that function if the memory serves me right
Or add a fan to drive air through the intercooler. Or even both!
@ivertranes2516 The fan may be extremely functional or near-useless, depending on the specifics of your car. For example, in my car, any intercooler gets mounted right in front of the radiator and AC condenser in a semi-ducted V-mount. One fan pulls through the whole stack, and you can turn it on manually with the AC controls (lol). If the intercooler is quite separate, and especially if airflow is questionable, a dedicated fan will be a huge improvement. The biggest thing you can do is make sure the air has a good escape route after it's passed through (eg. hood vents). If there's a high pressure zone behind any heat exchanger, air will go to great lengths to go around it. On some cars, you can put spray nozzles in front of a heat exchanger and never get it wet because the airflow is so bad. Fans brute-force the issue, but nothing beats natural airflow.
That doesn't really do anything for a consumer vehicle, and it does not solve heat soak related issues due to bad airflow. It is a small gain and mostly good for cleaning.
Jokes on you. My fuel already comes filled with water from the gas station pump 😂
Edit: Since so many people are not getting it right. Brazilian gas stations sell regular gasoline (which contains up to 15% anhydrous ethanol) and regular ethanol (which doesn't contain any gasoline) at least on paper. Who knows what actually happens.
🤣🤣
Just add some alcohol in the gasoline and water will mix together and ends up inside the cylinder. Water wont even freeze in old carbutators demanding pre heat.
I use 100% ethanol but depending on the gas station it has so much water that the exhaust keeps spitting it out
It's better to mix the water in the vaporization process instead of in the liquid state. 😜
@@thelastwoltzernatural ethanol inherently contains 5% of water, not sure if gas pumps go out of their way to get anhydrous ethanol
I've used water/methanol injection for years on supercharged engines. It really helps with heat soak in the summer.
Where do you inject the water? Before or after the supercharger? I wasn’t sure if the water will cause issues with compressors.
After to absorb the heat.
@@jwjohnson7909after turbo and intercooler
I used water / methanol injection with my 10.5:1 LS1 on hot summer days; running the A/C with 87 octane fuel and loaded with people. That worked much better than running 93 octane; which varied greatly in quality.
100+ race gas worked too, but was expensive per gallon.
The methanol injection system was the cheapest way to daily drive that car in the summer.
The cold air allowed 87 fuel during the winter, and no methanol was needed.
An adjustment knob allowed me to fine tune the spray amount, as driving conditions changed or turn it off completely.
I tapped the windshield washer tank for the reservoir.
Held about 1 gallon and windshield washer fluid is cheapest during hot summer months. I would top it off when I filled the fuel tank; reservoir never ran empty.
That system worked much better than trying to find decent high octane fuel; the quality is hit and miss while not stopping the detonation, just less detonation.
Car still had no power and had to drive carefully to not sound like an Olds diesel.
The methanol injection was capable of eliminating 100% of the detonation and restored about 80% of the hp; car could be driven like a normal automobile.
@@jhoncho4x4 Something was deeply wrong with that engine to run that poorly at only 10.5:1 compression.
First Life of Boris cools his PC with vodka, now this Bosnian mad lad cools his car with vodka.
The possibilities of slavic science are endless.
Rakija, we don't make vodka :)
@@77garga I know that rakija is a thing in the Balkans, I have a Bulgarian gaming buddy who makes his own.
But since 50:50 mixture of water and ethanol is essentially vodka, I wanted to make a joke about that.
@@TopiasSalakka Even just cheap 34% vodka works good.
It's immediately clear that these are Slavs from the south, those from the north would not waste the liquid.
he's Croatian, at least the country I see in the background
I've had a Snow Perf H²O Injection System since 2014 and it has been amazing! Its on a '05 Ford 6.0l Diesel which has been carefully and systematically bullet-proofed and enhanced since 2009! Unfortunately, the truck itself has succumbed to the rigors of NW British Columbia's long, winding and very hilly highways, as well as snow (50% of the year) and rain (other 50%).
BTW I'm now in the process of locating another '05 F350 SD Fx4 4wd Lariat to use as a donor truck to drop my engine, drivetrain, and yes the Snow System into! As long as the body and frame are in very good condition of course.
Other than tuning, injectors, and turbo, the Snow Performance water injection has given me the most (noticeable) performance increase! And I've never had a problem with it either. As well, now when towing my EGTs are running in the green, when before the system, they were regularly running well into the red! I highly recommend the product.
Funny because I’m watching the video with the comments section open, while thinking about what vehicle I’d like to put water injection on. Thinking about cylinder head temps I thought about my aircraft engine on my airboat, then I start thinking about whether people use them on Diesel engines and here’s your comment. I am building a second airboat with a om606 Mercedes Diesel engine, also I have an 05 duramax, two ram Cummins trucks, and a bmw x5 diesel. Back in 2007 I had bought a cooling mist water injection kit for my Subaru sti but never got to install it because another kit came out that worked hand in hand with my ecu, unfortunately I never ended up buying that one so never gained that experience. So it’s something I’d like to experiment with.
@shidukirider Water injection was and still is one of the best upgrades I've made to my diesel truck! All Pros and zero Cons👍
I commented a while back in this thread with some more details of my experience with it if you're interested
I can help you find a 2005 Ford with No Rust. I live in New Mexico , no rain/no snow equals No Rust.
Just leave a comment to me
@user-kb2bs9hy2v Hey. I appreciate the response, and I will keep you in mind. But, I've had a few other offers from Alberta Canada, which is next door to my Province of British Columbia! But, if they fall through I may be in touch. Thanks again! 🤝
@@djsmith4789
Thanks
You deserve every single one of your subscribers. I've got really into engine theory and engine maths recently, and this channel makes things so much easier to understand.
Time and again that water injection had been proven to be the golden solution to power gain, fuel efficiency, and reduction to emission. I don't know what exactly prevent mass-adoption of water injection in commercial engines. But it should be adopted.
Same thoughts…it might not RUN on water but the benefits are clear. What a miracle liquid, drink it, clean with it, grow food with it and make Gnarly Gainz on the dyno
Does water cause the internal components to rust?
Iirc the main issue is, just like steam engines, you use a ton more water than you use fuel, so you'd run out constantly if you didn't want to haul around several water barrels in the trunk.
@@JohnDoe-jk3vv That was the issue with old carburetors yes. New injection method doesn't have this issue.
@@Appletank8 What are you talking about? If you use more than 20% water to fuel mass ratio you're adding too much.
In fact, research show that 10% is good enough, and 15-20% is ideal.
I read that water injection was part of the German Messerschmidt aircraft engine as an emergency power enhancing system, so they could save a couple pilots from crashing.
It was also used in Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasps.
That is pretty incredible!
The American p47 thunderbolt had a water methanol injection system. Could push the engine to 2400 🐎. The ground crews would have to inspect the engine after each use.
The German aeromotors used a mix of water and methanol injected for "maximum war power"
@@dorianleclair7390 was it one of the first developments of the system in america before the war? or were they just surprisingly cautious/had a large stock of them?
That MK1 MR2 is a gem!
yes, and easy peacy under 980 kg weight only!
It really is. You'd expect someone like this to have an MX-5 but nope, he rocks the mid-engine matchbox car GOAT.
MK11 WATER VAPOR INJECTION WORK REALLY WELL/CAME WITH ECO-BOOST TO MIX WITH FILTER WATER/I COULD THE ZIP-TORK AND INCREASE MPG-GOT 20-30 PERCENT BETTER MPG
As usual, you're able to explain what may appear to be esoteric into something understandable. As one comment or has said, water methanol was used in WW2 aircraft to eak out every horsepower. First by the germans because they didn't have access to the high octane fuel the allies did and then by the allies as well. With the exception of electronics almost every high performance feature in modern engines was tried and tested by aircraft engine manufacturers back in the 30s.
Mark I realize that you're trying to be scientific here but to be kind to you, you've obviously forgotten and left out plenty of mechanical advances in engines since the 1930s that was actually tried in the 1940s.
That's why both the Allies and the Axis powers had jet and rocket based weaponry during WW2. Fielded. In combat. But yes you are right in that we are talking about technology that was well-developed in WW2.
Not all of it. But some.
In 1963 Oldsmobile had an all aluminum 215 cu. inch V8 in 5 configurations , one of which had a 1 bbl carb and water/alcohol injection. Actually, I don't think it was injection, but rather a siphon deal at the carb. This engine produced the most h.p. at 215 h.p. , making 1 h.p. per cubic inch of displacement.
SAAB sold a water injection kit for the 99 Turbo and there you had to mix water with windshield washer fluid during winter, maybe even all year round. Think it added 20hp with raised boost. So from 145 to 165hp from a 2-litre engine which must have been really impressive in the late 1970's
I was waiting for him to mention the SAAB 99 and surprised he didn't.
the second mass production turbocharged car in the US, the 1962-1963 Oldsmobile F85 Jetfire, used a water/methanol injection system as well. It had some complicated vacuum control system that would bypass the turbo if your water/meth tank ran out so you didn't destroy the engine. They used aluminum 215 ci V8 engines and made a respectable for the times 218hp.
The biggest downside of this system other than the complex vacuum safety system was the 215's overheating issues, likely exacerbated in this case by the extra power. All in all, they were cool cars but I'm glad my F-85 is a few years newer and has a naturally aspirated 330ci engine, less vacuum hose spaghetti to deal with and no need to homebrew a water/methanol/rust inhibitor cocktail of my own to make the turbo actually do something.
The power wasn't that special for a turbo-charger 2l. But saab was the first one with a nice to drive turbo without huge turbo lag and loads of down low torque.
@@gorkzop The car I drove in the driving school back in 70's was a turbo Saab. On one of the first lessons we stopped at the red lights and I forgot to change from 3rd to 1st gear (manual gearbox) - when the lights turned green we did proceed normally. The driving instructor pointed out my error stating quite laconically that in other cars that would not have worked.
LOL why must it have been?
Impressive in the late 1970s was 400hp from a 1.5L naturally-aspirated engine. Still paled in comparison to 400ft-lbs of torque from a 7L engine. Because torque is what determines acceleration. HP only determines top speed.
The gap between torque output for a 400hp 2L engine and a 400hp 7l engine is what has driven transmission development. You're talking about ww2 engines that were roughly 1800 cubic inches. The Packard-Bell Merlin in the P-51 was only 1600 CID and only produced 1300hp. The Japanese Zero radial engine also produced 1300hp. There are many chapters of engineering technology standing between the two engines. The quintisental WW2 fighter engine was the Double Wasp in the Vought F4-U that produced about 2000hp. I say that based on the fact that the F4-U remained in production into the 1950s. You're talking about engines under 2L, the discussion switches to high-revving engines, pre-turbo post-supercharger, for applications like motorcycle-racing and Indy-car, maybe F1 racing.
You're diving into a pool that is way beyond your depth. Find another topic in which to pretend to be an expert.
I swear I just congratulated you two months ago for hitting 500k and now it's at 1M!! Well done, sir. Well deserved. Hopefully many million more to come. Thanks for all you add to the automotive world.
WMI is very cool. I always wondered if the extra oxygen amounts to any extra power as well.
Water Injection works even better on a diesel engine, because it increases timing. I run a dual nozzle setup on my V70 2.4 D5 with selfmade intake pipes, which makes a lot of power!
Did you remap it?
@@peterkovacs233 Yes, i tuned it myself using KESS V2 and help from some forums. I even have a Stage 2 file, but i think that the automatic gearbox wont hold it. Even the engine mounts dont hold the torque, because two of them ripped of at a strong pull
@@Perpetuum0 Hell yeah!
im using ethanol Water Injection in my B58 running it 25tkm and its running absolutely fine. You can still read the QR Code on top of the piston and the sparkplugs are nearly white as a new sparkplug as i changed it.
Should do a video about water/alcohol injection in diesel engines!
Yes, this would be #4 on the list on how to avoid pre-ignition 🙂
this gotta go everywhere, that's so cool
ah, classic copper plate, always to the rescue
I've toyed around with water injection systems over the years and one thing I noticed was my oil level dropped sooner when injecting water into the cylinders. I once ran out of oil on a long trip and sent a conrod through the block so do keep an eye out on oil levels.
That's because the water takes the carbon off the piston and the sides of the piston.The carbon builds up like a seal on the side of the piston to stop oil burning or blow pass. Carbon is good for sealing. If you want to clean the top end of your engine, a cup of water will clean all the carbon of the piston and valves.
@@robertblunden7160 yep the plugs are always very clean with water being injected and there is minimal carbon buildup. I think a small percentage of the oil also gets steam-cleaned out which is why the oil levels need to be monitored more often.
Some water gets in te sump, thin out the oil and add to the oil level, gets used as it lands on top of the piston, cleans the piston ring groves. This we do not want!.. etc.
I'm envious of how much info the younger generations have at their finger tips these days. This video exemplifies that
looking back on our days, yeah me too bro,
and yet generation nowadays are mostly stupid and looked away, only few take notice
It's mostly a curse, a blessing and a curse
As long as the water/meth system is working properly. Otherwise you’re looking at serious damage. Direct injection fuel systems would benefit tremendously keeping the carbon build up in check on the valves.
Videos like this should be in some sort of preservation archive, you have great teaching talent.
Next time: How to use water to clean the windows :)
and yes, water injection is a nice trick! People who don't believe should ask themself, why your engine is running smoother and feel more potent when it's foggy outside.
Some say, that the transformation from water to steam in the chamber adds also slight power.
😮, yeah it feels so different driving on a rainy day.
I mean, people that don't believe in it should look at something like half WW2 plane engines, water injection was quite common at the time
as a person who seems to be unable to master the art of cleaning glass... I take offense to this comment lol
@@bmxerkrantz Few drops of dishwas soap in a bucket and voila a master is born!
@Triggernlfrl I'm a smoker... ammonia is needed to dilute the tar. still leaving streaks or taking ages to clean lol. appreciate the tip!
My dad did this 45 years ago. We used the windshield wiper pump and reservoir to inject water/methional directly into the carb when the turbo was under boost.
It must have been one hell of a pump to overcome manifold pressure when under boost.
Al contrario se produce vacío que succiona el agua más rápido a menos que sea turbo o sobre alimentado
@@RobertBeck-pp2ru draw through turbo lol 45 years ago
@@RobertBeck-pp2ruYou can spray the water or water/methanol into the compressor inlet.
@RobertBeck-pp2ru PSI is pounds pressure per square inch.
The nozzle is only a tiny portion of a square inch. It only has to overcome the pressure that its nozzle area is subject to.
Eg. 30Psi divided by 12 nozzles per inch. 144 squirter nozzle areas
total per square inch.
30Psi÷144nozzles per square inch= 0.2psi is needed to be overcome.
Awesome. Ran a water/meth injection in my e36s first turbo setup like 20 years ago. Made 500+whp with it and pump 94.
Not too shabby
Meth? Is your engine from South Florida? 😅
@@EarthlingNews no its from germany.. you ever heard of pervitin? Lol
@@shifty1927 is that like the communist version of Desoxyn or something? 🤡
@@EarthlingNews guessing fascist.. but don't know its origin... whats the emoji for girl?
Import Car guy here. Stumbled on your video. You explained water injection and detonation the BEST of ANYONE!!
I'd say it's an old trick that lost to manufacturer's greed. Great to know you bring it back!
Manufacturers always have a tradeoff, improved function vs higher complexity and cost. If it's government mandated, smog, they have to do it and the customer has to pay the cost. If it's not mandated, then will the AVERAGE customer be willing to pay for it. If not, then it won't go into mass production. Possibly the only manufacturer that could get away with it is Porsche.
world war 2 aircraft engines used water/glycol injection for take off and short term military power for same reasons. They had sodium filled valves and still needed extra cooling to prevent pre ignition.
I can click thumb up even before watching knowing that I did not make a mistake.
A side note at 10:46. I doubt that ethanol is compressible in a sense as gas is compressible. It is a liquid after all. Theoretically it is a bit more compressible than water but for all practical purposes it is uncompressible. But it does evaporate faster than water, vapour is a compressible gas and it adds energy to combustion.
It's really a no brainer. Distilled water sales would increase, engines would make more power more reliably, exhaust would be cleaner, and less NOx would be produced. The cars are already running external electric water pumps, it's not like the hardware isn't already in the cars to do this. Run a few extra lines and another tank and you're good. Now you don't need auxilary port injection(since steam cleans the engine, which means fewer valve deposits), or you can convert the aux port injection for water/ethanol mix.
David Vizard doesn't get enough credit, man is a genius.
Just use 34% cheap vodka lmao
i don't think it's a good mass market thing, id say most people wouldn't refill the water. And water is a scarce resource in a lot of places, especially distilled water.
might do it in my own combustion engine through, if i have one.
@@crackedemerald4930 The need for distilled water is why it will never get adopted. in some places, they're impossible to get.
Vodka, is, easier.
Will not happen due to politics. All the focus is on EVs. The EV ideologues ignore advantages of any alternate technology while glossing over the disadvantages of EVs. Same for hydrogen, LPG and hybrids.
"David Vizard" Huh?
You do know that this is pre-WW2 technology?
And no, it is not "just add a tank and be done".
my grandpa told me he had a water injection system fitted to his old opel kadett carburator back in the day and it made more power and was more efficient. i was amazed by it and always wondered how it worked.
The whole objective of this is to have a cooler dencer intake air charge. since more air can be squeezed into the combustion chamber if it's cooler? which is also the idea for cold air intakes, which allows the engine to draw air in from a place. other than under hood heated air temperatures. and the added benefits are reduced pre ignition, and spark knock, and carbon removal. water injection has been around for quite a while. carburetor manufacturer Holley, first offered a water injection systems a number of years ago. however there can be a serious issue involved with water injection. and that is there's a thin line between enough water injected into the engine. and too much water injected into the engine. which will cause the engine to hydraulic virtually destroying the engine. because water doesn't compress like air.
We did this in the 70's with our air-cooled VW's. We put a windshield wiper tank and pump in the backseat with a hose to the top of the air cleaner. A manual switch turns on and off. We tested the cylinder temp with a sensor under a spark plug. Running at 70mph in LA heat could really cook those little 1600cc engines. We found temperatures reduced greatly, but no fuel or performance improvement regardless of the alcohol mixture. Pulling the heads off we were surprised how clean the pistons and exhaust valves were. We gave up on the project, but whenever someone came in for a tune-up, we ran the water spray for about 30 min on the highway and it removed a ton of knock and pinging.
I used to dink around trying to boost power and mileage with bolt-on mods on all my old cars including my 69 Bug. On the bug, the nicest, quick cheap combo I found was a homemade (plywood) air cleaner that used a paper element from a Plymouth Duster slant-six. The aftermarket had paper air cleaner conversion kits but they were extremely small filters and eliminated the velocity stack that was built into the OEM oil bath air cleaner.
In the OEM design, the built in velocity stack was a great idea but the oil bath system was too restrictive. Eliminating the restriction by using a large paper air filter and fabricating my own velocity stack inside the air cleaner box, I then had a noticeable increase in power. The only other mods were that the car already had a cheaply rebuilt 1600cc engine with heads that had been milled a little too much, and a freer flowing "Monza" exhaust. With that combo I could bury the speedometer until it hit the peg past the 90 mph mark. I was pulled over by a sheriff one day & he asked me if I knew how fast I was going and I didn't have to lie when I said "no" because the speedometer was literally pegged. He said it was over 115 but started laughing for some reason and let me off with a warning. I was aware of water+alcohol injection and the engine would knock if lugged on a hot day, but I didn't get around to trying it. It was good enough already.
After that I helped a buddy turn his gas guzzling 74 Trans AM w a 455 into a gas sipper by building an 11 to one 327 and swapping the automatic out for a manual and a taller rear end. We did put water+alcohol injection in that engine and the car would get 22 mpg in town and 27 on the highway. Not really good enough considering the amount of work put into it. He soon sold it and bought a VW rabbit which already got over 40 mpg without having to modify it.
Then he had a head-on collision with a Plymouth Horizon. The driver of the Horizon had broken legs, my buddy in the rabbit was killed instantly. I later bought a Horizon and found out that Horizon/Omnis had HSLA steel frame rails when a Ford Escort hit me head on. The Escort was totaled but my Horizon had $250 of damage.
I know that was long-winded but one thing kept leading to another. But in our quest for higher mileage and more power, safety was not a high priority.
Most (high end WW2) piston powered aircraft had water injection for take-off. That way, they could run at FULL power to get themselves off the ground.
Neat that we can still use that system!
Yes, the Germans called it MW50.
@@vladconstantinminea I thought that was nitrous.
@@RazingthenRaising Nope, Nitrous was called GM-1 "Göring Mischung" Both systems where needed by the Axis forces beacause they had inferior fuel than the Allies...
@@tiboreeb5360 Yep. Amazing what they were able to do with what they had!
I guess I'll have to double check my info.
Either way, water injection was (still is?) VERY common on aircraft engines.
@@RazingthenRaising I dont think it was used other than for military application, and i dont think the systems that are on still airworthy warbirds are really being used today, but i may be wrong :) --- > and i was wrong, as it seems the injection was later used extensively in commercial jet aircrafts...
Water methanol or ethanol injection should be a feature on every forced induction production car. It not only reduces heat soak and increases engine efficiency, but it helps remove engine deposits and helps keep the catalytic converter clean. If used correctly, it can also significantly increase fuel economy.
"If used correctly"
But that is the problem: Most people would not use it correctly and in that case it would just be added cost, complexity, weight and failure-points for no benefits. People are often too stupid to even fill up the right gas, let alone do regular oil-changes (the simplest maintenance), constantly refilling their car with clean water is way beyond them. Just imagine how many calls there to repair-services there would be cause somebody yet again put the water into their normal tank?
I mean seriously i have seen somebody try to fill up their tesla at a normal gasstation.
@@ABaumstumpf you are so right! BMW is definitely on the right path in finding a self-replenishing water source in the vehicles for their water injection system.
@@ghostwrench2292 self-replenishing? You mean rain?
@@ABaumstumpf
You're generally correct, and automobiles have never been idiot proofed, even though they keep trying. However, they could design the system where it's integrated with the engine management system, have it generate a notification when it's time to refill, and make it as simple as adding washer fluid or gas.
@@ABaumstumpf Those people are too stupid to even drive.
Not anew idea.
In the 1970s you could Buy similar system that was installed with a spacer under the Carby in the Intake Manifold. A small 'Jet' that allowed water injection in under High Vacume/Suction. Dropped off slightly under Acceleration. Claimed to clean out Carbon build up as well.
One need water at low vacuun when the engine labours not at hight vacuum ??
Now I'm a junior tuner because of your videos and explanations!
Thanks a lot.
I started last year my business tunning Toyota ecu/remap, learned too much from you.
Thanks again.
I saw a cool system on a turbo corvair once. It used the positive manifold pressure fed to the top of the water tank (one way valve) to automatically inject water under boost. Water/ethanol injection was used back in WWII airplanes on both sides.
That is a beautifully simple proportional flow implementation. If it's feeding pre-turbo nozzles or nozzles located after a venturi, it's effectively a set and forget system.
I want to add water meth injection to my little 1.6 HDI, and it might also help de-carbonizing the engine and intake components (PCV+EGR= wacky slugde)
I want to add water meth injection to m...
-elja 2024
Are you going to add a better turbo/intake or exhaust?
@@xxcookiethecatxx2759 yeah, I'm planning on deleting all the emissions stuff like the DPF, and I already got a better intake on it, and I want to flash the ECM with a bit more aggressive tune.
Im in love with the ending of this video
You actually took some random metal garbage you found and patched up your turbo with it. Genius. Absolute genius. ✍Im taking notes on this lol
my best friend's dad was a Genius for Gen. Dynamics.... in 1968 he put water injection into his 1960 Volvo PV544... I still remember that !!! Great discussion. !!
A Water to Air Intercooler setup might be a good idea if your intercooler doesn't get good airflow
i was thinking the same
Or strap a big old fan on that intercooler.
I second this. Also a little aux fan would help to, and some ducting from a side vent in front of the rear wheel(which may need to be added).
It would be good to do a video on the different solutions available to make the intercooler work efficiently. Better ducting of air in and out. Adding a fan for slow traffic. Relocate the intercooler. Add an air to water intercooler with the heat sink in the nose or boot.
I think i saw once a subaru impresa (rally version or so) with such system... from factory
The insidious thing most modern engines do is to pull timing the instant the knock sensor thinks it detects knock.
I inject water/methanol (cheap windshield washer fluid) with an aquarium pump and 20 gauge needle to prevent this and get as much as 20% more mileage from 5 to 10% ratio to fuel injection. More than that and millage drops off, but I don't have access to tweaking timing. My Toyota maxes at 40 degrees BTDC and my Subaru maxes at 42 degrees.
This is for economy, not power under constant highway load.
Excellent video!!! I think if memory recalls that old Top Gear did a piece on SAAB including the original 99 Turbo having water injection.. RIP SAAB 🙏
I had a diesel truck that would overheat when we towed our RV in the Rocky Mountains. A 15-gallon tank, 12v water pump, cheap 1/4" irrigation tubing, and a few plant misters took care of the overheating issue. The mister nozzles sat behind the grille and in front of the radiator. It was cool to see how quickly the misted water would bring the temperature down.
A friend said it's a good idea to turn off the water injection before stopping the engine so no rust occurs in the engine.
The Boost Cooler only injects at higher boost pressure. And you anyway shouldn´t drive your turbo engine hard before parking. We never saw a rusty engine in 20 years from our customers.
@@snowperformanceeurope1180 Ok.
Me and my friends at 1am redlining my shitbox dumping a bottle of whiskey down the carb to increase power (we have $5 in our bank accounts between us)
You a programmed to be poor.
Sounds like a waste of whisky. Especially if you only have dollars
Peak ragebait
should just used a leaf blower and saved the whisky
this comment did not reach the right audience 😂😂😂😂
I have been reading multiple studies about water injection in modern engines. Seems to be really exciting and a lot of promise. Mostly it seems to be aimed towards reducing NoX emissions.
could you share some links? It´d take me days to find them myself...I often read a publication for hour, before finding out, that it wasn´t the one I needed/was looking for.
Excellent video and explanation. And to think, turbochargers, superchargers, inter coolers, and water injection were developed and deployed 80 years ago in high performance piston airplanes.
In the early 1960s Buick and Oldsmobile used an optional all aluminum 215ci/3.5L turbocharged engine (later sold to Rover and has been developed into the aluminum V8 you see in their products today)
I put the Oldsmobile variant of the 215 (set back in the engine bay) in a stripped out 1970 Datsun 510, with 180 degree headers and a box flair kit. Painted it painted it with a BRE paint scheme and drove it on the street. A VERY capable machine! 😊
Water-Ethanol injection was used during WW2 by both sides to gives a boost of power
19:57 pure racing engineering
Typical Balkaneering. I mean that as an endearment, not the google result I got 'x)
FYI, in SE Asia countries and Brazil, we use up to E85 (85% ethanol mixed with 15% gasoline) in gasoline engine. In Thailand, the options are E5, E10, E20, and E85. Most of the recent gasoline car must be tuned to accept at least E10 (but they generally tuned to accept E20, for example the 2NR-VE in toyota yaris cross AC200).
4:05 "you sweat when you are hot"
Take note of that ladies, here I come...
My dad told me that in the soviet union the farmers put a bottle to drop water in the air intake one drop at a time to increase mileage and help cool the engine. Idk if it was real tho
This was used a lot in WW2 aircraft engines. With water injection, R2800 C series can increase power from 2280hp to 2850hp on the ground. If its in the air with ram air from aircraft speed, the engine power with water injection can go over 3200hp.
I'm sure you're already aware, but one other possible benefit of H2O injection is combustion cylinder pressure. It's probably negligible compared to the rest of the benefits. But one could hypothesize that any miniscule amount water inside the cylinder that hasn't been completely vaporized yet, will turn into steam once ignition occurs. And water has a 1700:1 expansion ratio. Anyway, great video as always!
Energy that turns water into steam is huge, so it reduces pressure at the same time because temperature is lower. So it cancels out basically, you use a bit more gas to boil the water
@@tedarcher9120 Sounds legit.
1:14 You can’t fool me. Everyone knows water doesn’t burn. You’ve changed the black hose for a red one. That adds at the very least 10hp.
I counted at least three red hoses, that's 30hp!
A Turbo doesnt burn either and jet it increases power
@@blubbersprudel Really??? Why is it then, that commercial water-injection kits are made to inject the water BEFORE the turbo, if the turbo doesn´t burn ??????????? ;-)
Scavenging water from AC is genius
It is. I only wonder if it produces a sufficient quantity of water. Seems it would be very dependent on the climate in which the car is driving. Living in the desert, there isn't a lot of moisture in our air for the A/C system to condense water from.
Ive been using sno performance injection in my class 8 semi's for about 10 years.
These big diesels really come alive o this stuff.
So much that my bone stock c13 out pulled even 600hp c15s.
Also, it SIGNIFICANTLY assisrs the cooling of the engine.
Very impressive stuff, wouldn't run my semi without it.
It SIGNIFICANTLY reduces EGTs, and that extra heat that was going out the exhaust pipe is used to push the piston down much harder.
The water takes up space and raises compression ratio. Also, it can be used in higher temp to clean the valves and piston face. I wonder what would happen if you used peroxide
Yea... good idea, and hydrogen peroxide adds oxygen, might significantly increase horsepower 👍
Such a great and informative video, thankyou brother!
Now I understand, why on rainy days I overtake Ferraris.
You might just be driving better too, bruv. A lot of people can't drive in the rain. Rain is the funnest, though.
"I Inject Water Into My Engine and Make More Power"
In 99,9% i would not even Klick on a Video with that Title.
But in your Case, i saw that Video, read the Title, and asked myself: "Wow, how did he made this?"
Yeah, first time I see someone using water properly and not some kind of "let's just use water and it will become vapor in the chamber and create pressure" nonsense we usually see on old atmospheric cars
@@Alphaj01 old atmospheric cars: if u mean naturally aspirated engines, they also can still profit: By re-building the cylinder head, compression-ratio would rise, and then, water/methanol helps. would be helpfull, especially for 2strokes, since they´re so easy to re-build towards higher CR.
Glad to you guys are doing well. I was in Germany "up-range" as a C-17 mechanic during the Bosnian War. We were housed in condemned dorms, with no heat, on Rhein-Main Air Base in January. It sure gets cold up there. Bosnia looks like a nice place with those mountain views.
One more thing about ethanol, it works as an anti-freeze in winter. That is important in cold climates. I water injection on my 1973 Mazda RX-2. Perhaps there was not the benefit that you would expect from a piston engine, but it didn't hurt anything and probably took some heat out of the combustion chamber when the engine was full throttle. And on a rotary, that combustion chamber doesn't get a cooling intake charge so to me, it seemed to work. The cost was so cheap to set this up. A vacuum switch, a nozzle, a pump and some tubes. Good video.
More mechanic content 😁
Stuff like the copper plate gasket is what makes this hobby so much fun
In Brazil, since the end of 1970's and the very beginning of 1980's brazilian drivers have ethanol available at the gas station pumps.
This is not a "pure" ethanol, but a mix of 95% of ethanol and a 5% of water.
All the engine tuners in Brazil have discovered huge amounts of power and torque since then.
Just as example, brazilian aircooled VW Beetles from firrst half of 1980's came from factory with gasoline only engines (7,5:1 compression and 45hp @ 4000 rpm), or ethanol only engines (11:1 compression ratio and 57hp @ 4200 rpm).
I highgly recommend you all to learn more about the brazilian experiencie, and to know about Proalcool Program from the 1970's.
😉
WOW! Mate, you explain questions I sort of hadn't thought to ask, in a very understanding way.
Mi Dad worked on aircraft engines in WW2, Rolls Royce trained, so I was brought up with the basics of the time.
You my friend, are updating me, for which I am grateful.
Had a wee water injector thing in the 70s. Trouble was that the flow control was basically a tiny tap under the bonnet, dripping water into the intake manifold lol.
Keep up with the vids and thank you.
Awesome tech videos. Thank you. Q1. Will this work with Turbo Diesel Engines? 2. Carbon buildup with newer direct injection motors is a big issue and this seems to be a great solution. Keep up the good work
At 15:12 If you listen really carefully, you can hear an MX5 with a 0.016 L engine revving to 70.000 rpm in the background
Uh, it would have blown up long before 70,000 rpm! 😅
I think thats my laptop fan
6700nm of torque holy crap with 5000lbs of torque your going to rip off the rear end of the car, lmao of course I am kidding and know its a mistake
What about corrosion and lubrication? Doesn’t this water affect the engine tendency to wear?
Yes and no. Lets look at what might happen:
Water will not mix with oil easily, oil is put on the cylinder wall and also removed by the piston rings, they seal the chamber from burning oil and from injected fuel leaking into the oil system, so in theory they will also seal off the water from going into the engine oil. Since no seal is perfect, every engine will burn minuscule amounts of oil (except VWs they burn a bit more) so the water/ethanol mix might slowly creep into the engine oil as well, ethanol being a great solvent might make the oil thinner (same as when your fuel mixes with oil) while the water will emulsify with the oil eventually into the ever beloved cursed foamy caramel pudding from hell.
Because of that, it might make make oil change intervals shorter, which isn't a bad thing per se. If that happens to be introduced into the mass production cars its certainly a thing thats going to be tested on the customer.
Corrosion is another topic. I doubt it will be an issue since the water-ethanol mix is short lived inside the engine and most modern intake manifolds are made from lightweight and corrosion proof polymers. The water evaporates (being innate) and leaves through the exhaust system while the ethanol burns. The water might even have a positive effect on emissions as the bad parts NOx are the Dioxides (NO2). There will be more NO2 the hotter the whole combustion gets, so by cooling the chamber effectively you can reduce NO2 emissions.
@@haku1155 thanks for your input. However I am still a bit concerned. Water does not dissolve much in oil, true, but it may emulsify. As for its evaporation, certainly that happens, but I suppose it is a matter of rates. If water does not get removed at a fast-enough pace, I suppose it could lead to accumulation in the crankcase and there I am not so sure every thing is corrosion-proof. Also it is true as you say that NOx can be reduced, but water can increase oxidation of the oil, which may lead to faster than normal replacement. I am not sure, if that is the scenario, that people will be so happy to change the lubricant.
But , I guess that this is taken into account by whoever company believes in this technology.
If you are one who constantly "gets on it" at every light or straight away, you will no doubt begin to see a coffee colored slime on the underside of your oil filler cap. It's a warning sign to change your oil. If you use full power only occasionally, say for merging into freeway traffic, most of the water vaporizes away in normal driving. Even so, it's a good idea to shorten the oil change intervals if you equip your engine with water injection.
You are right.....Do not add water when driving around town or say the last 20 km of your trip
Hey wanted to share a tip I picked up for boost hoses that like to pop off. I found, if you wire wheel the area that the silicone meets the aluminum pipe, not only will the hoses never separate, but you'll have to run a pic around the silicone before removing it the next time. It's that tight! Some people say hair spray and I'm sure they're are a ton of other options people will suggest...
I personally just found this to be a very low cost, super effective solution.
This was used on rally cars I worked once for Solex. Water is injected at the end of combustion to cool the gas and increase the pressure. The main issue to be used in daily driving cars is the rust. It is also possible to inject by ultrasound pulverisator with precise droplets size so that the gas mixture first ignites, then vaporizer the water at high pressure and temperature.
Honestly, coolest part about watching this is that this technology came about for use in fighter aircraft during ww2, and now it's just applied to automobiles as a hobbyist project. Ethanol-water injection into your engine was a typical method of implementing an 'emergency power' system in high horsepower aircraft like the F4U corsair that would grenade if they were pushed up to any higher level of supercharger boost, and was also one of the means by which a P51 mustang could achieve such heinous levels of acceleration.
Такого контента мало на RU youtube.
Вы доходчиво рассказали об этой системе.
Это было очень познавательно, спасибо.
I tried water injection many years ago with my Micra. The conclusion was there is not a big difference but when I took off the head of engine I was really surprised. It was so clear inside!
I was doing that back in the 1980's on my mitsubishi sigma 2.6 astron engine pre turbo impeller for atomisation.
Then again from 2002 on my Possium Borne WRXSTi 2.5 I still have the Possium WRX this very day. The water injection works by a pressure switch when boost is starting to be made through a fuel injector linked to my after market ECU Link developed by Possium before hus tradgic death at a NZ rally event while pre survey of track. RIP PB 30 APR 2003
Don't forget to mention that the ethanol/methanol acts as a anti-freeze when it's below 0 C.
This is brilliant. I had a 1984 MR2 when based in Okinawa in 1992-1995. Steering wheel was on the right side. Shifted with left hand. It was modified with a Turbo. So regretful I didn't bring the MR2 back with me to the states. That was the most fun-driving car I have ever owned.
Twenty-five years ago I made a water injector for my deteriorating '72 Pinto. The engine had 90,000 miles on it and was very weak. Using materials I bought mostly from Wal Mart's aquarium department and costing under twenty bucks, it took me one day to build. No pumps or electrical connections needed. The power increased significantly and I put a couple thousand more miles on it before deciding it needed to be junked because of all its other problems.
petrol and diesel are incompressible liquids too
The fact is irrelevant because nothing enters a correctly functioning engine's cylinder in the form of a bulk liquid, other than when the vehicle is submerged for some reason.
Ran that set up on a supercharged Tacoma for 140,000 miles. Worked great. It added a fair bit of hp on the dyno, but allowed me to tune without detonation, most importantly.
I always wondered what they meant by "Water-Methanol injection" when talking about old fighter planes. - This explains it much more clearly than a lot of articles I've read :)
Here in the states, we can buy E-85 gas, (85% ethanol, cheaper than 87 octane) and mix it with 87 and water (distilled). Some guys use it in n.a. engines, but the real benefit of the mix goes to turbo engines with intercoolers and a quality control unit. Excellent topic Drivin.
Sweet little MR2 I had three of them they are like driving a go-kart
If you are doing pure water injection, I’ve found spraying the intercooler externally with another nozzle while also injecting water into the intake ramps up the cooling significantly further.
Awesome job! Totally agree that water injection should be way more common. It's not on commercial production vehicles because water freezes and expands. That problem would require air purging of lines every time the vehicle turns off and before the temperatures in those lines gets close to freezing and/or an alcohol mixture. If part of an essential tune, the engine might be damaged WHEN the fluid runs out. People would most definitely NOT take care of it properly and warranty costs would be enormous for the manufacturer.