Question: Square D pressure setting (4:53) Is my understanding correct? (1) First adjust the large nut to set the cut in pressure, so if I wanted to lower cut-in pressure to 100 psi to reduce the amount of cycling I would turn it counterclockwise. (2) Then if I wanted to maintain the manufacturers 175 psi cut-off pressure, I would turn the smaller nut to increase the differential. NOTE: This is an Ingersoll Rand 2475 unit which comes from the factory set to something like 140 psi cut-in, and 175 cut-out. I typically run higher volumes of air at 40 psi in a media cabinet and don't need the unit to cut back on at 140 psi because it is so far away (pressure-wise) from what I need, causing the compressor to annoyingly cycle.
Excellent vid. I replaced my old switch with a Square D. I wired it the same way the old one was wired. After resetting the breaker 4 times, I found YOU !. Thanks, man. Very detailed, simple and clear. Square D. works like a charm. Thanks again.
Thank You for the great video and information. Simply explained and easy to understand. I have the square D switch. It turns out that I wired it correctly. Again Thank You.
Please post the amperage rating from the motor data plate. If it pops at 80 psi then the load on the compressor motor is increasing as the pressure builds up. Have you put oil in the cylinders just a drop or two of air tool oil. Also check to see if there is a check valve that prevents back feed into the compressor.
Jim. I have a D-Square switch and want to increase water pressure throughout the house. It looks like I just have to screw down on the large spring nut. Correct? Do I have to turn power off at box before adjusting? Do I need to shut off water to the pump before adjusting? Thank you. Carmen
My best educated guess would be no, it would not operate normally. The differential setting controls the cut-on or cut-out pressure of the switch (depending on your model, either/or) and removing the spring would essentially remove the ability for the switch to cut the unit in or out at the designated pressure. I would contact the switch manufacturer to be sure, for your model, but I would say it would certainly affect the operation of the compressor.
While I went to get a wrench, My buddy thought he could turn the pressure switch adjustment screws. Now we don't know where they go, and the pump won't shut off. Anything I can do? Thanks.
+Vikash Kumar The Pressure Switch is an electro-pneumatic "switch" that is essentially the "brain" of the air compressor. It has an internal diaphragm that senses pressure from the air tank (which is preset at the factory). The switch senses both the factory cut-in pressure and cut-out pressure, and turns the unit on and off accordingly. Once the pressure reaches the set PSI rating for the unit, copper contacts mechanically close the circuit and turns the unit off. For units that use an Unloader Valve on the Pressure Switch, this Valve is pneumatically tripped once the switch shuts the compressor off, and "unloads" the excess air out of the air lines so that the compressor doesn't re-start with pressure in the lines. Hope this helps!
I have the switch on the right. My motor maxes out at 175 psi but my hoses max at 150psi. The switch I got does 175psi max. Like you said on the switch on the right, I couldn't find info on adjusting but that center security torx does have a spring under it. Is that the adjustment screw?
That is the adjustment screw, yes. If it has a screw there, you should be able to adjust the main calibration setting so it will adjust BOTH the cut-in pressure and cut-out pressure of the switch. C.W. for increasing it, C.C.W. for decreasing it. The differential setting (if you have another adjustment screw) adjusts only the high end cut-off pressure of the switch.
I bought a cheap pressure switch from Amazon and it has no notaions for where to wire it. also it only has 4 terminals. where would I put the ground wire.
Can use these switches foo operatic Uv light. I am tryin to do is to only operate the Uv light when the pump comes on.i am living in Cambodia and to not burn out my UV light when my pump is not t I have to unplug the power cord.
Since the pressure switch tells the compressor when to cut on and when to cut off, you should be able to do this, yes. You would need to choose the pressure switch that has the cut-on and cut-off PSI that you need. There are many switches available in various configurations that we offer (and many other retailers offer). I don't know much about your application but I'm sure this can be done. Thanks for the question!
Eric: been looking at a number of sites and think I'm homing in on the problem but would like your assessment. Hitachi EC12 compressor starts, runs up to 120psi or so, cuts off, and pressure is bled off to ~60psi before air escape stops, whereupon the motor attempts to restart but is sluggish and humming (I'm plugged directly into an outlet on a 20A circuit). It can pop that breaker. Also, when I turn the pressure regulator knob clockwise or counterclockwise, the pressure gauge on the regulator doesn't show increase or decrease, which it used to. Gauges on the pressure switch and regulator show same pressure regardless. New pressure regulator, new pressure switch, or both? Check valve seems to be clean, lubed, and intact. Thanks
Thanks for the comment! Does the tank bleed down after the unit shuts off, without you using air? If it does, the Check Valve is certainly defective as it's not sealing, allowing air to escape from the tank and leak out of your pressure switch (usually out of the small bleeder valve). Regarding the pressure reading on your regulated pressure gauge, it seems that you may have a defective pressure gauge, simply. To test, take a look at the pressure reading on the tank. If it reads, say, 60 PSI then obviously you should be able to adjust the regulated pressure from 0 PSI to 60 PSI. If you turn the knob and the gauge doesn't move, then your Gauge itself is defective. If the Gauge reads 60 PSI, then it is working as it should. If you're getting air through the regulator and through the line, then most likely it's the Gauge itself which is defective. Lastly, you may have a defective motor Capacitor, which is causing the unit to hum on re-start and trip your breaker. It may not have enough "juice" to get the unit started. I would have that capacitor tested; we have a video where you can do find out how, just click on the below link: th-cam.com/video/4UQ79YKU5Qc/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps and reply if you have any additional questions I can help with!
Is there a reset button when you replace preassure switch? I replace that black box on my 15 gallon dewalt and now it doesn't want to turn on at all. Please Advise
There isn't a reset button on the switch itself, no. If you installed it and it doesn't turn on, you may have wired it incorrectly. Also, check to make sure the power cord is in good shape and that you have continuity throughout the switch, cord and motor. You can bypass the pressure switch to see if that's the weak link. If all else fails, I'd recommend getting an electrician to take a look at it. Thanks for the comment!
+Ali Alqatary We don't have a video showing the installation on a compressor and adjusting on a compressor YET, no. But, we plan on adding more videos very soon and this one is on the list!
I purchase a husky 80 gallon tank only and the tank itself is rated at 175psi Max, and I want to make the compressor a 2 stage, since 2 stage pumps produce max 175psi, will I be ok having max psi rated pressure on the tank all the time at 175psi?? I want to install a 5hp 2 stage pump and motor.
My air compressor pumps up to 120 PSI then it throws the 20 amp breaker. I tried to adjust the high end cut off pressure so maybe it would shut off before throwing the breaker but no matter how I adjust it, it still pumps up to 120 PSI and throws the breaker. It has a square D switch just like the one in the video and I'm adjusting the smaller nut but it doesn't change anything. Any thoughts?
thank you for your help switch is cw-2075-31 on at 80 psi/off at 100 psi female inlet with off n on manual lever should the start motor have a ground wire cuz it dont have ground wire or dose the power wire ground the the start motor..? thank you johnny
I show the direct replacement for that CW207531 switch to be part# CW212500SJ. It sells for around $42 + shipping and you can find it on our site by clicking on the below link: www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=18579 This has the same on/off PSI rating and has a 1/4" Male NPT fitting, with on/off dial switch. This is a Campbell Hausfeld switch, as this unit was manufactured by Campbell for Sears Craftsman. As for your second question, this switch has 4 terminals, two for your line (power cord) and two for your load (motor). It does have a ground wire connection, as you should have a ground from your power cord or motor that would connect to the switch body. Typically the ground from the power cord would ground the unit and be screwed in to the ground location inside the switch body (for 110 or 120 Volt applications anyway). That unit has a whole lot of metal on it, so if you don't currently have a ground, it's a good idea to have one. So, if 115 or 120 Volt I would buy a new 3-prong power cord so you can install the ground wire to the pressure switch body.
I have a CH compressor that had a 220 motor I have a replacement motor that is 110 I think the switch won't care . But I'm not sure, Can I use the same switch ?
You certainly can wire the switch for a 220 volt motor, yes. Most every pressure switch can be wired for either 115/120 volts or 220/230 volts. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask!
Hello. Purchased a Square D 95/125 4 port switch. Shuts off at 125, but pressure drops to 120. Could it be the unloader valve. Checked all connections for leaks,hearing for noise and using soapy water.
+Hector H Yes it COULD be the Unloader Valve leaking that causes it to drop down to 120 PSI, from 125 PSI. You can remove the Unloader Valve (and tube) to confirm this; if it still leaks down then the Unloader Valve is not the problem. Also spray ALL fittings and connections on the compressor, from the pump Head to the tank (and drain cock on the tank) to confirm there are no leaks anywhere on the machine. Also make sure the Check Valve in the tank is sealing completely after the unit shuts off, if not then it will back-feed through your Unloader Tube and out of your Unloader Valve.
Question? What is the allen screw on the top, in between the contacts of the switch that you showed and said you couldn't adjust the pressure setting for? I have a hubbell on a Ingersoll that looks exactly the same as that one and it looks like it adjusts something(but i don't know what), because it is connected to a big spring and when you turn the screw the spring gets tighter or looser. Can I get some help with this? And what if you get the silicone off that's covering the adjustment screw, could you, in theory, change the pressure setting? I just need to lower the pressure cut out for safety reasons. Thankyou
Thank you for the comment! You could in theory remove the silicon from the screw head and adjust it, yes, although it's not recommended due to liability reasons (for that reason I can't say that it's recommended). Typically, the screw with the larger spring adjusts BOTH the cut-in and cut-out pressure, whereas the smaller screw/spring adjusts the differential only (i.e., just the high end cut-out PSI). Hope this helps!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thank you so much for the reply. I have the exact same switch in your video on the far right, the one with the silicone cover. So you are saying the torx screw that is attached to the big spring is the main cut-in/cut-out adjustment? Well i very easily got the silicone cover removed, it doesn't matter anyway it's 3yrs out of warranty. But regardless that silicone was covering a plastic screw and it didn't help me because it did not adjust the cut out pressure, it might be the differential adjustment screw. But when i loosened the plastic screw enough it started leaking air, so i turned it back in to enough to stop leaking air. Do you have any idea what that plastic screw is that was covered? Or anyway i could figure out which is what? But the other one that was not covered(a smaller torx screw attached to a big metal spring) seems to be the one that adjusts the main cut in/cut out pressure, because when i loosened it enough it would cut the electric switch off when in the auto position. It doesn't make sense why they would cover the differential screw and leave the cut out open to change, when the cut-out would be the safety problem. And one more thing i thought the differential wasn't just the high end cut out pressure but the difference between the cut-in and cut-out, like how many psi difference between the two. Thankyou for your time, you are helping me SO much right now.
@@NSXTACY420 You're welcome, I'm glad to offer any help I can. The differential adjusts the difference between the cut in and cut out, PSI so you're right there (I had that wrong above). The big spring adjusts both cut in and cut out pressure. You have a point about the mfgr covering the differential. I asked an associate about this and he said that typically they only cover the cut in, cut out screw/adjustment.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thankyou again tremendously! I finally figured it out and i got my pressure cut out to shut off at exactly where i wanted it at 105-110psi to make it much safer, but surely make my motor work a little more. But yes the cut-in cut-out was not the one that was covered with the glue/silicone, which the opposite i was expecting. The plastic screw did nothing to the cut out pressure and i just screwed it back in to default and put a rubber cover back over it, as i don't need to change the differential. But I'm glad, through these comments we are also helping someone else with this dilemma i had. Thankyou friend.
@@NSXTACY420 That's great to hear you were able to adjust the differential where you need it and I'm glad to help! Thanks again for the comments. It really depends on the manufacturer and the particular pressure switch. Some switches are fully adjustable while others less so. I'm sure it all has to do with liability issues, etc.
I have a 30 gallon Ingersoll Rand air compressor in my garage and want to use it for sprinklers blowing in my house, they recommend to blow them at 60 psi but my compressor fill up to 125 psi, what do I need to do to make it blow at 60 psi ?
Thank you for the question! You just need to install an air regulator valve, which will typically "T" in from the on/off pressure switch and has a coupler on the outlet end to attach your air hose to. You turn the regulator knob CCW to reduce the amount of air to your line. You can find something like this on our website by clicking at the below link: aircompressorpartsonline.com/regulator-14-mini-reg0250m-p-156.html
You're referring to 30 PSI cut-on pressure and 50 PSI cut-off pressure, yes? Certainly there are switches that are factory set at these pressures for certain applications (water pumps is a popular one). But, of course, you couldn't adjust a switch that's factory pre-set at 175 PSI down to 50 PSI as it doesn't allow for that large of a differential. I hope I answered your question but if not, reply and I'll try to give you more info!
i'm talking about a pressure switch for a jet pump for the house. i want one that you can adjust but i was just wondering when you buy one that says its a30cut in and 50 cut out , are they actually pre set at the factory so you wont have to adjust it very much?
i have what looks to be the same square D P.S. but mine doesnt have the secondary small adjustment spring. I am having issues with the system not shutting off at even 200psi. its a 3 phase Igersol rand set up. and looks like i have only the white net. and one black power hooked to the 1 and 2. if i manually flip the switch it arcs and pops the breaker. I am assuming this is all wired wrong or its missing the spring. This is a new to me set up btw
Some switches only have one adjustment, and your switch may only have a "range" adjustment screw which would adjust both the cut-in and cut-out pressures simultaneously. It sounds as though your pressure switch may be defective, as you should certainly be able to adjust it down to at least 175 PSI (for most two-stage compressors). I would honestly have an electrician take a look at the set-up as well to confirm all is wired correctly to the switch and to the magnetic starter of breaker.
+Air Compressor Parts Online I was looking at it, I am thinking the wiring from the wall is not set to the switch and motor properly. Thank you for the answer back and your very well done video
Thank you for the question! If the contacts are not physically touching when max PSI is reached, then most likely the switch needs to be replaced (this is also a safety issue). If they're touching but the unit isn't turning off, you should be able to take some emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper and clean the points up, as there is probably varnish on them, not allowing them to make clean contact.
@@rickystone4137 I would make sure that all other electrical components on the unit are working properly. Make sure the power cord, motor cord and motor are pulling the correct amperage and voltage. Enlist an electrician to confirm the above, if possible.
I have a tecmark pressure switch on my spa. I replaced the whole heat unit. The heat is not coming on. We check everything is right on the board. The rileys working fine fuses are fine> We checked the power going out from the board is fine. The power at the end of the wire to connect to the pressure switch are fine we have power going out and coming in. The problem is when We connect the wire on the pressure switch has no power coming into it. If i connect only one wire and check there is power but after connecting both it has no power at all. Cold the pressure switch be bad? Any help would be appreciated.
+Viana “Vianamor” Oliveira It could very well be a defective pressure switch, yes, although I'll admit I'm not very familiar with the application. I would probably contact Tecmark or the spa manufacturer to get in touch with a technical rep who can better trouble shoot for your particular application.
I just purchased a new pressure switch for my Ridgid 5 in 1 but it keeps popping my breaker and I know the wires are set properly what can I do to fix this issue
You may want to confirm the motor isn't drawing too many amps. If it's a new pressure switch, the only other cause could be the power cord itself (possible short) or the motor is drawing too many amps. I would probably have an electrician take a look since electricity is involved, that's the safe bet.
@Air Compressor Parts Online Hi, can all compressor pressure switches be adjusted?, mine has the red pull up and press down switch on top to turn it on and off,very common type,it stops at about 115psi but does not kick in until about 30-40 psi way too low,i want to adjust it to about 60 psi cut in. Does the black plastic casing with the red switch just pull off?
What you have is a "Lefoo" branded switch or something very similar. As far as I know this switch isn't adjustable, but I'm not 100% sure until I take a look at one in our stock. Typically the manufacturer will cover the adjustment screw in silicone so you can't adjust it. To remove the cover it's pretty simple, you just remove the screw that's in the recess on top of the cover, then pull the cover right off. I believe it's a Philips head screw. I'll take a look to confirm and will reply ASAP.
If you have the pressure switch with the red on/off button, it should certainly be adjustable. Remove the cover and there is a 10 mm cap screw head and arrows pointing to the left and right with a + and a - sign showing which way to turn for higher or lower pressure. This should increase the cut-on AND cut-off pressure. This is the only adjustment for this switch, I believe. It doesn't have a separate differential adjustment (which would adjust the cut-off pressure only) or an adjustment for the cut-in pressure separately.
thanks, im trying to remove the black plastic cover to adjust,cant seem to get it off,no screws holding it on and im afraid if i pull it too hard it might snap the red switch off :(
There should certainly be a screw holding the cover down. I've never seen a switch cover without one. It's probably recessed in the cover right on top. If you'd like, you can email a photo of the switch you have to customerservice@aircompressorpartsonline.com and I'd be glad to assist you further. It was be easier if I had a visual on your specific switch. Thanks!
Are you asking if it's possible to not connect the strain relief? You don't have to, but the electrical cord would be loose and dangle around which isn't ideal. Dust and debris can also make its way inside the switch, which can dirty up the contacts and prevent it from working.
+Air Compressor Parts Online sir im a beginner in pressure switches and i really dont know how to connect the relief strain can i just hook it up in the air tank?
You could clamp the power cord to the tank and then wire it to the switch, yes, but it's best to run the cord through the strain relief first as this will secure the cord in place and keep debris from making its way inside the pressure switch contacts. As long as you don't have any exposed wires, however, you could do what you are suggesting, yes. I would at least put electrical tape over the holes where the strain reliefs would go, to keep dust and debris out.
Glad to help! You need to run the Unloader Tube to a Check Valve in the tank, yes. The Check Valve keeps the air in the tank after the unit pressurizes and shuts off. The Unloader Valve must connect to either A) The Check Valve or B) The Pump head. If your pump doesn't have a connection for the Unloader Valve then you'll need to run it to the small unloader port on the check valve, this way it can relieve the excess pressure in the Discharge Line and from the Pump Head.
Hi, my old switch was a 30 psi. When replacing it I coulld only find a 40 to 60 psi.. It seems to click on and off too much. Having replaced the pump I'm worried of it burning out. Can the new switch setting be too strong?
I would try adjusting the pressure switch first, per the instructions in this video. Most switches are adjustable so take the cover off (after everything has been turned off and unplugged) and attempt to lower the max cut-off pressure. If not, then you will probably need to find a 30 PSI switch like your original. Square D makes one I believe.
I wonder if it's possible to repair a pressure switch? The cheapest I can find a Condor MDR2 in the UK is £50. I only paid £60 for the compressor, and I could buy a complete new motor + switch for £150.
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong??
hello i have a older sears air compressor model #106.174541 more than sure that i cant get same pressure switch for it wjat would be an ideal replacemant switch i could get that is similar switch that will work with it thanks johnny
You're right about that, the original pressure switch hasn't been available for some years for this particular model air compressor. The original part# for the switch was either CW-2075-5 or CW-2075-7 (depending on the cut-on and cut-off pressure of your compressor). I'm sure you could replace the original with a new modern switch, and the Furnas (aka Hubbell) switches are very popular with many different PSI settings available. They may look different, but they function in the same manner and wire up basically the same (very simple). You can view these on our site by clicking on the below link: www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=286 You basically need to choose a switch by finding the correct cut-on and cut-off PSI, which is pre-set from the factory. All of these switches have either a 1/4" Male NPT or 1/4" Female NPT fitting on the bottom of the switch, which should be the same size as your original switch, so it should thread right into the inlet. These switches have an Unloader Valve attached, the original did not. Not a problem, you simply won't attach anything to it. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any additional questions!
+CUMITA-4WD This is an old unit, so the original Pressure Switch is not available any longer. But, Campbell does sell an OEM replacement that will retrofit it. The new part# is CW212500SJ and you can find it on our site to purchase by clicking on the below link: www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=18579 Hope this helps!
Thanks for the question! I would honestly contact the motor manufacturer. Typically they will give you an authorized sales center who can assist you with parts and sell you parts. The parts may or may not be available, depending on the brand and type of the motor. Many times this contact can be cleaned and polished, but if it's damaged or defective then yes, you'll need to replace it.
hello sir my disel pump (fire pump) is start in auto mode without pressure drop ,but it should to be start after pressure drop can you tell me plz what is the problem , i think pressure switch is not working..may be plz help me
It does sound like a pressure switch problem, yes. Since the pressure switch controls the activation of the pump, this is my best guess. However, I'm not very familiar with these diesel pumps so I cannot say what is causing this definitively. I would contact the manufacturer of the pump to be honest. Thanks for the post!
I can't be 100% sure as I'm not very familiar with fuel pumps, but if the pump is not operating at the pressures that it's supposed to be operating at, then it needs to be replaced. If it doesn't activate the pump when it should, it's defective. Sorry to be vague but I'm just not very familiar with the application. Thanks for the comment!
Need to turn on at higher pressure. On at 50 off at 55 .have timer to limit time to run. Low water level.... Pump does not turn on till water is so low that we loose to much water pressure. Have large water tanks for capacity. But recovering is slow... Not wanting to go so low that it takes to long to refill again...
Can someone tell me why my pressure switch would start doing this? Water pump pressure switch issue Just reply in the comment of the video if you can help thanks!
i have a curtis pump that im rebuilding the rings r worn and i think the pressure relief valve is stick and im not sure on the reeds im sure it need new but there not like ive seen before , it was my grand fathers, i cant get a rebuild kit from curtis cause its so old and i need help if u can i need to put a new pressure switch on it i need to find out what size of a.c. motor would be best and pully size im rebuilding it with champion rings and gaskets if they fit if not ill have to make the gaskets i thought but i think the relief valve is stuck but ive never worked on one this old if pictures will help i cant send some , id like schematic on a relief valve and the reeds or somthing close to here is the info curtis : pat 1869362 : model : 139639 1708158 : size 2 5/8 x 2 5/8 : serial 3085-8006 : min rpm 400 : c-120 : 314-383-1300 and rebuilding with champion rings from model # c1-000 its same size bore 2 5/8 please help i lost my grandpa he was like my father and all of his tools were stolen besides this and they even cut this off its tank the only reason i still have it its cause they must have ran out of fuel for their torch i can pay for anything if that would help thanks for any and all help please email me stevencoker66018@outlook.com id like to do some bussiness what type of pressure switch are best i have a 32 gallon tank i know thats not huge but it will work for the tme being i think i dont know thats why im asking you thanks im at your mercy
+steven coker I'm sorry for the long delay in replying, did you ever find the parts you need? We don't carry many Curtis parts but we may be able to help if you still need the parts. If you can, email tech@aircompressorpartsonline.com and we'll do our best to help. You can send photos of the pump as that will certainly help. Sorry again for the long delay in answering this.
forgot to addd has female inlet for i guess call for safety switch when it goes down to 80 psi /n 100 psi n pressure switch on bottom is male tread thanks again
+anotherdamnyankee It's pretty simple, all brands of pressure switches are the same in that you turn CW to increase the PSI and CCW to decrease the PSI. From there it's just touch-and-go to adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressures to the desired PSI settings.
Your Square D info is wrong. Large screw moves the range up and down. Say a 20 40, turn it clockwise and raise it to 50 30. The small screw adjusts THE CUT OUT ONLY. SO, IF YOU WANTED TO INCREASE THE DIFFERENTIAL BETWEEN CUT IN AND OUT, YOU WOULD TURN LARGE COUNTER CLOCKWISE, TURN SMALL CLOCKWISE
+cdwyman Actually, the video is correct for the Square D adjustment. 1. The "Range" (large screw): Turn nut down (CW) for higher cut-in pressure, or up (CCW) for lower cut-in. 2. The "Differential" (small screw): Turn nut down (CW) for higher cut-out pressure, or up (CCW) for lower cut-out. The Range adjustment does NOT adjust BOTH the cut in and cut out pressures, it only adjusts the cut-IN pressure. Here's a .pdf document from Square D which explains: www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/10/10a50e35-cbce-404b-bb26-b47ecaa8f957.pdf
Question: Square D pressure setting (4:53) Is my understanding correct? (1) First adjust the large nut to set the cut in pressure, so if I wanted to lower cut-in pressure to 100 psi to reduce the amount of cycling I would turn it counterclockwise. (2) Then if I wanted to maintain the manufacturers 175 psi cut-off pressure, I would turn the smaller nut to increase the differential. NOTE: This is an Ingersoll Rand 2475 unit which comes from the factory set to something like 140 psi cut-in, and 175 cut-out. I typically run higher volumes of air at 40 psi in a media cabinet and don't need the unit to cut back on at 140 psi because it is so far away (pressure-wise) from what I need, causing the compressor to annoyingly cycle.
Excellent vid. I replaced my old switch with a Square D. I wired it the same way the old one was wired. After resetting the breaker 4 times, I found YOU !. Thanks, man. Very detailed, simple and clear. Square D. works like a charm. Thanks again.
It's great to hear this video helped you Bill. You're welcome!!
After watching multiple videos, yours was the only one that explained it to where I finally adjusted it right. Thanks!
Excellent Video, clear concise , easy to follow and understand. Thank You !!!
We appreciate the kind comment!
Great video, I really like how you had the side bar with the pressure range and the color to math the arrows.
Very well made and informative video.
Your video is very informative for me. Thanks a lot for this helpful information in this video.
We're very glad to hear that. Thank you for watching!
Thank You for the great video and information. Simply explained and easy to understand. I have the square D switch. It turns out that I wired it correctly. Again Thank You.
Glad to help Phillip!
Please post the amperage rating from the motor data plate. If it pops at 80 psi then the load on the compressor motor is increasing as the pressure builds up. Have you put oil in the cylinders just a drop or two of air tool oil. Also check to see if there is a check valve that prevents back feed into the compressor.
Thank You, really, that was as clear as the ringing in my ears.... I'm now going to go hook up my Square D....
Jim. I have a D-Square switch and want to increase water pressure throughout the house. It looks like I just have to screw down on the large spring nut. Correct? Do I have to turn power off at box before adjusting? Do I need to shut off water to the pump before adjusting? Thank you. Carmen
if we remove the differential spring,does the compressor work normally
My best educated guess would be no, it would not operate normally. The differential setting controls the cut-on or cut-out pressure of the switch (depending on your model, either/or) and removing the spring would essentially remove the ability for the switch to cut the unit in or out at the designated pressure. I would contact the switch manufacturer to be sure, for your model, but I would say it would certainly affect the operation of the compressor.
thank you very much
Thank you very much for the square D explanation.
Glad to do it!
Now I can switch my compressor back to 230V. Thank you!
While I went to get a wrench, My buddy thought he could turn the pressure switch adjustment screws. Now we don't know where they go, and the pump won't shut off. Anything I can do? Thanks.
Hello, could you please tell me what is the purpose of pressure switch in air compressor? how it is related to valve
+Vikash Kumar The Pressure Switch is an electro-pneumatic "switch" that is essentially the "brain" of the air compressor. It has an internal diaphragm that senses pressure from the air tank (which is preset at the factory). The switch senses both the factory cut-in pressure and cut-out pressure, and turns the unit on and off accordingly. Once the pressure reaches the set PSI rating for the unit, copper contacts mechanically close the circuit and turns the unit off. For units that use an Unloader Valve on the Pressure Switch, this Valve is pneumatically tripped once the switch shuts the compressor off, and "unloads" the excess air out of the air lines so that the compressor doesn't re-start with pressure in the lines. Hope this helps!
+Air Compressor Parts Online Thanks
Jim, what is the brand and model# of the pressure switch you have? This will certainly help me trouble-shoot the problem.
When I only need 2 bar, is it wise to set the cut-in at 2.1 bar and the cut-out somewhere at 7 or 10?
It's probably better to short-cycle the compressor so probably don't have them too far apart.
I have the switch on the right. My motor maxes out at 175 psi but my hoses max at 150psi. The switch I got does 175psi max. Like you said on the switch on the right, I couldn't find info on adjusting but that center security torx does have a spring under it. Is that the adjustment screw?
That is the adjustment screw, yes. If it has a screw there, you should be able to adjust the main calibration setting so it will adjust BOTH the cut-in pressure and cut-out pressure of the switch. C.W. for increasing it, C.C.W. for decreasing it. The differential setting (if you have another adjustment screw) adjusts only the high end cut-off pressure of the switch.
Thanks for this video. I now know how to fine tune the condor switch on my bellaire compressor. Appreciated!
I have a comp that I got but I don't know what I have. Is there any ware I can send a pic and they could tell me?????
I bought a cheap pressure switch from Amazon and it has no notaions for where to wire it. also it only has 4 terminals. where would I put the ground wire.
Can use these switches foo operatic Uv light. I am tryin to do is to only operate the Uv light when the pump comes on.i am living in Cambodia and to not burn out my UV light when my pump is not t I have to unplug the power cord.
Since the pressure switch tells the compressor when to cut on and when to cut off, you should be able to do this, yes. You would need to choose the pressure switch that has the cut-on and cut-off PSI that you need. There are many switches available in various configurations that we offer (and many other retailers offer). I don't know much about your application but I'm sure this can be done. Thanks for the question!
Eric: been looking at a number of sites and think I'm homing in on the problem but would like your assessment. Hitachi EC12 compressor starts, runs up to 120psi or so, cuts off, and pressure is bled off to ~60psi before air escape stops, whereupon the motor attempts to restart but is sluggish and humming (I'm plugged directly into an outlet on a 20A circuit). It can pop that breaker. Also, when I turn the pressure regulator knob clockwise or counterclockwise, the pressure gauge on the regulator doesn't show increase or decrease, which it used to. Gauges on the pressure switch and regulator show same pressure regardless.
New pressure regulator, new pressure switch, or both? Check valve seems to be clean, lubed, and intact. Thanks
Thanks for the comment! Does the tank bleed down after the unit shuts off, without you using air? If it does, the Check Valve is certainly defective as it's not sealing, allowing air to escape from the tank and leak out of your pressure switch (usually out of the small bleeder valve).
Regarding the pressure reading on your regulated pressure gauge, it seems that you may have a defective pressure gauge, simply. To test, take a look at the pressure reading on the tank. If it reads, say, 60 PSI then obviously you should be able to adjust the regulated pressure from 0 PSI to 60 PSI. If you turn the knob and the gauge doesn't move, then your Gauge itself is defective. If the Gauge reads 60 PSI, then it is working as it should. If you're getting air through the regulator and through the line, then most likely it's the Gauge itself which is defective.
Lastly, you may have a defective motor Capacitor, which is causing the unit to hum on re-start and trip your breaker. It may not have enough "juice" to get the unit started. I would have that capacitor tested; we have a video where you can do find out how, just click on the below link:
th-cam.com/video/4UQ79YKU5Qc/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps and reply if you have any additional questions I can help with!
Is there a reset button when you replace preassure switch? I replace that black box on my 15 gallon dewalt and now it doesn't want to turn on at all. Please Advise
There isn't a reset button on the switch itself, no. If you installed it and it doesn't turn on, you may have wired it incorrectly. Also, check to make sure the power cord is in good shape and that you have continuity throughout the switch, cord and motor. You can bypass the pressure switch to see if that's the weak link. If all else fails, I'd recommend getting an electrician to take a look at it. Thanks for the comment!
don't u have a video showing installation and addjusting a pressure swich on a motor. thanks
+Ali Alqatary We don't have a video showing the installation on a compressor and adjusting on a compressor YET, no. But, we plan on adding more videos very soon and this one is on the list!
I purchase a husky 80 gallon tank only and the tank itself is rated at 175psi Max, and I want to make the compressor a 2 stage, since 2 stage pumps produce max 175psi, will I be ok having max psi rated pressure on the tank all the time at 175psi?? I want to install a 5hp 2 stage pump and motor.
My air compressor pumps up to 120 PSI then it throws the 20 amp breaker. I tried to adjust the high end cut off pressure so maybe it would shut off before throwing the breaker but no matter how I adjust it, it still pumps up to 120 PSI and throws the breaker. It has a square D switch just like the one in the video and I'm adjusting the smaller nut but it doesn't change anything. Any thoughts?
if it is a 60 gal or larger should be on 30 amp breaker 10 gauge wire
thank you for your help switch is cw-2075-31 on at 80 psi/off at 100 psi female inlet with off n on manual lever should the start motor have a ground wire cuz it dont have ground wire or dose the power wire ground the the start motor..? thank you johnny
I show the direct replacement for that CW207531 switch to be part# CW212500SJ. It sells for around $42 + shipping and you can find it on our site by clicking on the below link:
www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=18579
This has the same on/off PSI rating and has a 1/4" Male NPT fitting, with on/off dial switch. This is a Campbell Hausfeld switch, as this unit was manufactured by Campbell for Sears Craftsman.
As for your second question, this switch has 4 terminals, two for your line (power cord) and two for your load (motor). It does have a ground wire connection, as you should have a ground from your power cord or motor that would connect to the switch body. Typically the ground from the power cord would ground the unit and be screwed in to the ground location inside the switch body (for 110 or 120 Volt applications anyway).
That unit has a whole lot of metal on it, so if you don't currently have a ground, it's a good idea to have one. So, if 115 or 120 Volt I would buy a new 3-prong power cord so you can install the ground wire to the pressure switch body.
my pressure switch has 4 wires what plug do I need to put on the end of it
I have a CH compressor that had a 220 motor I have a replacement motor that is 110 I think the switch won't care . But I'm not sure, Can I use the same switch ?
You certainly can wire the switch for a 220 volt motor, yes. Most every pressure switch can be wired for either 115/120 volts or 220/230 volts. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask!
raedwulfone well, is there a 12V DC switches??
How much are they..??
Can you post the link where they sell it.
Thank you
Hello. Purchased a Square D 95/125 4 port switch. Shuts off at 125, but pressure drops to 120. Could it be the unloader valve. Checked all connections for leaks,hearing for noise and using soapy water.
+Hector H Yes it COULD be the Unloader Valve leaking that causes it to drop down to 120 PSI, from 125 PSI. You can remove the Unloader Valve (and tube) to confirm this; if it still leaks down then the Unloader Valve is not the problem. Also spray ALL fittings and connections on the compressor, from the pump Head to the tank (and drain cock on the tank) to confirm there are no leaks anywhere on the machine. Also make sure the Check Valve in the tank is sealing completely after the unit shuts off, if not then it will back-feed through your Unloader Tube and out of your Unloader Valve.
When building presure and it cuts off all the air bleeds out down to about 40 psi. How do I adjust a condor switch so the air doesn't bleed out
That's not the switch. You need to locate where the air is bleeding out. It should be airtight. (Assuming you don't have a 40PSI safety valve)
Question? What is the allen screw on the top, in between the contacts of the switch that you showed and said you couldn't adjust the pressure setting for? I have a hubbell on a Ingersoll that looks exactly the same as that one and it looks like it adjusts something(but i don't know what), because it is connected to a big spring and when you turn the screw the spring gets tighter or looser. Can I get some help with this? And what if you get the silicone off that's covering the adjustment screw, could you, in theory, change the pressure setting? I just need to lower the pressure cut out for safety reasons. Thankyou
Thank you for the comment! You could in theory remove the silicon from the screw head and adjust it, yes, although it's not recommended due to liability reasons (for that reason I can't say that it's recommended). Typically, the screw with the larger spring adjusts BOTH the cut-in and cut-out pressure, whereas the smaller screw/spring adjusts the differential only (i.e., just the high end cut-out PSI). Hope this helps!
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thank you so much for the reply. I have the exact same switch in your video on the far right, the one with the silicone cover. So you are saying the torx screw that is attached to the big spring is the main cut-in/cut-out adjustment? Well i very easily got the silicone cover removed, it doesn't matter anyway it's 3yrs out of warranty. But regardless that silicone was covering a plastic screw and it didn't help me because it did not adjust the cut out pressure, it might be the differential adjustment screw. But when i loosened the plastic screw enough it started leaking air, so i turned it back in to enough to stop leaking air. Do you have any idea what that plastic screw is that was covered? Or anyway i could figure out which is what? But the other one that was not covered(a smaller torx screw attached to a big metal spring) seems to be the one that adjusts the main cut in/cut out pressure, because when i loosened it enough it would cut the electric switch off when in the auto position. It doesn't make sense why they would cover the differential screw and leave the cut out open to change, when the cut-out would be the safety problem. And one more thing i thought the differential wasn't just the high end cut out pressure but the difference between the cut-in and cut-out, like how many psi difference between the two. Thankyou for your time, you are helping me SO much right now.
@@NSXTACY420 You're welcome, I'm glad to offer any help I can. The differential adjusts the difference between the cut in and cut out, PSI so you're right there (I had that wrong above). The big spring adjusts both cut in and cut out pressure. You have a point about the mfgr covering the differential. I asked an associate about this and he said that typically they only cover the cut in, cut out screw/adjustment.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline Thankyou again tremendously! I finally figured it out and i got my pressure cut out to shut off at exactly where i wanted it at 105-110psi to make it much safer, but surely make my motor work a little more. But yes the cut-in cut-out was not the one that was covered with the glue/silicone, which the opposite i was expecting. The plastic screw did nothing to the cut out pressure and i just screwed it back in to default and put a rubber cover back over it, as i don't need to change the differential. But I'm glad, through these comments we are also helping someone else with this dilemma i had. Thankyou friend.
@@NSXTACY420 That's great to hear you were able to adjust the differential where you need it and I'm glad to help! Thanks again for the comments. It really depends on the manufacturer and the particular pressure switch. Some switches are fully adjustable while others less so. I'm sure it all has to do with liability issues, etc.
I have a 30 gallon Ingersoll Rand air compressor in my garage and want to use it for sprinklers blowing in my house, they recommend to blow them at 60 psi but my compressor fill up to 125 psi, what do I need to do to make it blow at 60 psi ?
Thank you for the question! You just need to install an air regulator valve, which will typically "T" in from the on/off pressure switch and has a coupler on the outlet end to attach your air hose to. You turn the regulator knob CCW to reduce the amount of air to your line. You can find something like this on our website by clicking at the below link:
aircompressorpartsonline.com/regulator-14-mini-reg0250m-p-156.html
Air Compressor Parts Online thanks a lot, I’m gonna put this other right away,
the square d switch, if its a 30 50 setup, would it be pre set at that or not?
You're referring to 30 PSI cut-on pressure and 50 PSI cut-off pressure, yes? Certainly there are switches that are factory set at these pressures for certain applications (water pumps is a popular one). But, of course, you couldn't adjust a switch that's factory pre-set at 175 PSI down to 50 PSI as it doesn't allow for that large of a differential.
I hope I answered your question but if not, reply and I'll try to give you more info!
i'm talking about a pressure switch for a jet pump for the house. i want one that you can adjust but i was just wondering when you buy one that says its a30cut in and 50 cut out , are they actually pre set at the factory so you wont have to adjust it very much?
You're exactly right, those settings are what the switch is pre-set for at the factory when you purchase it.
i have what looks to be the same square D P.S. but mine doesnt have the secondary small adjustment spring. I am having issues with the system not shutting off at even 200psi. its a 3 phase Igersol rand set up. and looks like i have only the white net. and one black power hooked to the 1 and 2. if i manually flip the switch it arcs and pops the breaker. I am assuming this is all wired wrong or its missing the spring. This is a new to me set up btw
Some switches only have one adjustment, and your switch may only have a "range" adjustment screw which would adjust both the cut-in and cut-out pressures simultaneously. It sounds as though your pressure switch may be defective, as you should certainly be able to adjust it down to at least 175 PSI (for most two-stage compressors). I would honestly have an electrician take a look at the set-up as well to confirm all is wired correctly to the switch and to the magnetic starter of breaker.
+Air Compressor Parts Online I was looking at it, I am thinking the wiring from the wall is not set to the switch and motor properly. Thank you for the answer back and your very well done video
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I have Square D switch ..What will make the contact points stick..the compressor will not kick off..will run till pops the pop-off valve
Thank you for the question! If the contacts are not physically touching when max PSI is reached, then most likely the switch needs to be replaced (this is also a safety issue). If they're touching but the unit isn't turning off, you should be able to take some emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper and clean the points up, as there is probably varnish on them, not allowing them to make clean contact.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline they seem to weld together when compressor runs for a bit
@@rickystone4137 I would make sure that all other electrical components on the unit are working properly. Make sure the power cord, motor cord and motor are pulling the correct amperage and voltage. Enlist an electrician to confirm the above, if possible.
@@AirCompressorPartsOnline I put a new square D switch on it and its seems to have fixed the problem..thx
@@rickystone4137 Glad to hear it! We appreciate the comments.
I have a tecmark pressure switch on my spa. I replaced the whole heat unit. The heat is not coming on. We check everything is right on the board. The rileys working fine fuses are fine> We checked the power going out from the board is fine. The power at the end of the wire to connect to the pressure switch are fine we have power going out and coming in. The problem is when We connect the wire on the pressure switch has no power coming into it. If i connect only one wire and check there is power but after connecting both it has no power at all.
Cold the pressure switch be bad?
Any help would be appreciated.
+Viana “Vianamor” Oliveira It could very well be a defective pressure switch, yes, although I'll admit I'm not very familiar with the application. I would probably contact Tecmark or the spa manufacturer to get in touch with a technical rep who can better trouble shoot for your particular application.
I just purchased a new pressure switch for my Ridgid 5 in 1 but it keeps popping my breaker and I know the wires are set properly what can I do to fix this issue
You may want to confirm the motor isn't drawing too many amps. If it's a new pressure switch, the only other cause could be the power cord itself (possible short) or the motor is drawing too many amps. I would probably have an electrician take a look since electricity is involved, that's the safe bet.
@Air Compressor Parts Online Hi, can all compressor pressure switches be adjusted?, mine has the red pull up and press down switch on top to turn it on and off,very common type,it stops at about 115psi but does not kick in until about 30-40 psi way too low,i want to adjust it to about 60 psi cut in.
Does the black plastic casing with the red switch just pull off?
What you have is a "Lefoo" branded switch or something very similar. As far as I know this switch isn't adjustable, but I'm not 100% sure until I take a look at one in our stock. Typically the manufacturer will cover the adjustment screw in silicone so you can't adjust it. To remove the cover it's pretty simple, you just remove the screw that's in the recess on top of the cover, then pull the cover right off. I believe it's a Philips head screw. I'll take a look to confirm and will reply ASAP.
My type is called a NE MA (Spa)
20 AMP
380V MAX
If you have the pressure switch with the red on/off button, it should certainly be adjustable. Remove the cover and there is a 10 mm cap screw head and arrows pointing to the left and right with a + and a - sign showing which way to turn for higher or lower pressure. This should increase the cut-on AND cut-off pressure. This is the only adjustment for this switch, I believe. It doesn't have a separate differential adjustment (which would adjust the cut-off pressure only) or an adjustment for the cut-in pressure separately.
thanks, im trying to remove the black plastic cover to adjust,cant seem to get it off,no screws holding it on and im afraid if i pull it too hard it might snap the red switch off :(
There should certainly be a screw holding the cover down. I've never seen a switch cover without one. It's probably recessed in the cover right on top. If you'd like, you can email a photo of the switch you have to customerservice@aircompressorpartsonline.com and I'd be glad to assist you further. It was be easier if I had a visual on your specific switch. Thanks!
ist posible to not connect the strain relief on the pressure switch
Are you asking if it's possible to not connect the strain relief? You don't have to, but the electrical cord would be loose and dangle around which isn't ideal. Dust and debris can also make its way inside the switch, which can dirty up the contacts and prevent it from working.
+Air Compressor Parts Online sir im a beginner in pressure switches and i really dont know how to connect the relief strain can i just hook it up in the air tank?
You could clamp the power cord to the tank and then wire it to the switch, yes, but it's best to run the cord through the strain relief first as this will secure the cord in place and keep debris from making its way inside the pressure switch contacts. As long as you don't have any exposed wires, however, you could do what you are suggesting, yes. I would at least put electrical tape over the holes where the strain reliefs would go, to keep dust and debris out.
+Air Compressor Parts Online ok sir.how about the unloader valve? can i put copper tube directly to the tank or it needed check valve.
Glad to help! You need to run the Unloader Tube to a Check Valve in the tank, yes. The Check Valve keeps the air in the tank after the unit pressurizes and shuts off. The Unloader Valve must connect to either A) The Check Valve or B) The Pump head. If your pump doesn't have a connection for the Unloader Valve then you'll need to run it to the small unloader port on the check valve, this way it can relieve the excess pressure in the Discharge Line and from the Pump Head.
Hi, my old switch was a 30 psi. When replacing it I coulld only find a 40 to 60 psi.. It seems to click on and off too much. Having replaced the pump I'm worried of it burning out. Can the new switch setting be too strong?
I would try adjusting the pressure switch first, per the instructions in this video. Most switches are adjustable so take the cover off (after everything has been turned off and unplugged) and attempt to lower the max cut-off pressure. If not, then you will probably need to find a 30 PSI switch like your original. Square D makes one I believe.
Thanks so much..ended up taking up the pressure tank and replacing...seems to have been the culprit...it was full of water
I wonder if it's possible to repair a pressure switch? The cheapest I can find a Condor MDR2 in the UK is £50. I only paid £60 for the compressor, and I could buy a complete new motor + switch for £150.
Everything's repairable (sometimes moreso than others). What's wrong with it?
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong??
hello i have a older sears air compressor model #106.174541 more than sure that i cant get same pressure switch for it wjat would be an ideal replacemant switch i could get that is similar switch that will work with it thanks johnny
You're right about that, the original pressure switch hasn't been available for some years for this particular model air compressor. The original part# for the switch was either CW-2075-5 or CW-2075-7 (depending on the cut-on and cut-off pressure of your compressor).
I'm sure you could replace the original with a new modern switch, and the Furnas (aka Hubbell) switches are very popular with many different PSI settings available. They may look different, but they function in the same manner and wire up basically the same (very simple).
You can view these on our site by clicking on the below link:
www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=286
You basically need to choose a switch by finding the correct cut-on and cut-off PSI, which is pre-set from the factory. All of these switches have either a 1/4" Male NPT or 1/4" Female NPT fitting on the bottom of the switch, which should be the same size as your original switch, so it should thread right into the inlet.
These switches have an Unloader Valve attached, the original did not. Not a problem, you simply won't attach anything to it.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any additional questions!
WHAT PRESSURE SWITCH CAN I USE FOR A CAMPBELL 11 GALLONS MODEL # VT9101 ???? THANKS
+CUMITA-4WD This is an old unit, so the original Pressure Switch is not available any longer. But, Campbell does sell an OEM replacement that will retrofit it. The new part# is CW212500SJ and you can find it on our site to purchase by clicking on the below link:
www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/index.php?r=product/view&id=18579
Hope this helps!
were d0 I get a motor start switch? cant seem t0 find much ab0ut them . it the part in the back 0f the m0t0r v shaped c0ntact . thx
Thanks for the question! I would honestly contact the motor manufacturer. Typically they will give you an authorized sales center who can assist you with parts and sell you parts. The parts may or may not be available, depending on the brand and type of the motor. Many times this contact can be cleaned and polished, but if it's damaged or defective then yes, you'll need to replace it.
yw n still trying n yea it's damaged the white plastic piece is br0ke 0f it tht keeps it fr0m t0uching after it starts .
Hello.
Will this switches work on 12v?
Unfortunately not, these switches are designed to be wired for 110/115/120 volts or 220/230/240 volts.
Well explained good job 👍✌️one love 🇯🇲
Thanks, and thank you for the watch!
hello sir my disel pump (fire pump) is start in auto mode without pressure drop ,but it should to be start after pressure drop can you tell me plz what is the problem ,
i think pressure switch is not working..may be plz help me
It does sound like a pressure switch problem, yes. Since the pressure switch controls the activation of the pump, this is my best guess. However, I'm not very familiar with these diesel pumps so I cannot say what is causing this definitively. I would contact the manufacturer of the pump to be honest. Thanks for the post!
thanks for replying me sir and plz tell me how i will identify pressure switch is working or not.
I can't be 100% sure as I'm not very familiar with fuel pumps, but if the pump is not operating at the pressures that it's supposed to be operating at, then it needs to be replaced. If it doesn't activate the pump when it should, it's defective. Sorry to be vague but I'm just not very familiar with the application. Thanks for the comment!
Tjakepzzz 👌👍 Sangatzzz
Very 👌👍 Nice
Thank you!
Thanks!! Very helpful!
Need to turn on at higher pressure. On at 50 off at 55 .have timer to limit time to run. Low water level.... Pump does not turn on till water is so low that we loose to much water pressure. Have large water tanks for capacity. But recovering is slow... Not wanting to go so low that it takes to long to refill again...
very helpful, thanks
Can someone tell me why my pressure switch would start doing this?
Water pump pressure switch issue
Just reply in the comment of the video if you can help thanks!
i have a curtis pump that im rebuilding the rings r worn and i think the pressure relief valve is stick and im not sure on the reeds im sure it need new but there not like ive seen before , it was my grand fathers, i cant get a rebuild kit from curtis cause its so old and i need help if u can i need to put a new pressure switch on it i need to find out what size of a.c. motor would be best and pully size im rebuilding it with champion rings and gaskets if they fit if not ill have to make the gaskets i thought but i think the relief valve is stuck but ive never worked on one this old if pictures will help i cant send some , id like schematic on a relief valve and the reeds or somthing close to here is the info curtis : pat 1869362 : model : 139639 1708158 : size 2 5/8 x 2 5/8 : serial 3085-8006 : min rpm 400 : c-120 : 314-383-1300 and rebuilding with champion rings from model # c1-000 its same size bore 2 5/8 please help i lost my grandpa he was like my father and all of his tools were stolen besides this and they even cut this off its tank the only reason i still have it its cause they must have ran out of fuel for their torch i can pay for anything if that would help thanks for any and all help please email me stevencoker66018@outlook.com id like to do some bussiness what type of pressure switch are best i have a 32 gallon tank i know thats not huge but it will work for the tme being i think i dont know thats why im asking you thanks im at your mercy
+steven coker I'm sorry for the long delay in replying, did you ever find the parts you need? We don't carry many Curtis parts but we may be able to help if you still need the parts. If you can, email tech@aircompressorpartsonline.com and we'll do our best to help. You can send photos of the pump as that will certainly help. Sorry again for the long delay in answering this.
very useful thanks a lot
forgot to addd has female inlet for i guess call for safety switch when it goes down to 80 psi /n 100 psi n pressure switch on bottom is male tread thanks again
Thanks good video!!
Thank you
Thanks 😅
Why can't they just label the adjustments?
thanks
Jim you showed us what the screws were for, but not how to adjust it
+anotherdamnyankee It's pretty simple, all brands of pressure switches are the same in that you turn CW to increase the PSI and CCW to decrease the PSI. From there it's just touch-and-go to adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressures to the desired PSI settings.
thanx
So for air compressors there’s no such thing as a single or three phase pressure switch right??? Lol
Basically, that's right. Any typical pressure switch like you see in this video will wire for single phase or three phase power.
Your Square D info is wrong. Large screw moves the range up and down. Say a 20 40, turn it clockwise and raise it to 50 30. The small screw adjusts THE CUT OUT ONLY. SO, IF YOU WANTED TO INCREASE THE DIFFERENTIAL BETWEEN CUT IN AND OUT, YOU WOULD TURN LARGE COUNTER CLOCKWISE, TURN SMALL CLOCKWISE
+cdwyman Actually, the video is correct for the Square D adjustment.
1. The "Range" (large screw): Turn nut down (CW) for higher cut-in pressure, or up (CCW) for lower cut-in.
2. The "Differential" (small screw): Turn nut down (CW) for higher cut-out pressure, or up (CCW) for lower cut-out.
The Range adjustment does NOT adjust BOTH the cut in and cut out pressures, it only adjusts the cut-IN pressure.
Here's a .pdf document from Square D which explains:
www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/10/10a50e35-cbce-404b-bb26-b47ecaa8f957.pdf
and no leawoo
Does not show which terminal is positive and negative. Unsafe video. Mediocre.
I was always told there was a hot and neutral no positive and negative really
Thanks, help a lot.