Electrician here: I usually don't use WAGO connectors due to cost, but there is one scenario in particular where they are a lifesaver. If for whatever reason you have a very short conductor inside of a box that's maybe 1-2 inches long, it is very hard to get a solid and reliable connection with a wirenut to extend that wire. The end to end connector is great for this scenario. (most often the case if drywallers knick your wire). Also works great if you have to do a splice in an LB
Wago is sooooo good for commoning 4 or more conductors to keep them nice and straight in the box. They are also a lifesaver for when you're high on a ladder working overhead to replace a light fixture. The splice is just so much faster and arguably superior, especially as light fixtures use stranded wire and I've always hated splicing stranded to solid using wirenuts.
Same here. I personally prefer wire nuts for reasons I will not get into here (they cause arguments by people who prefer Wagos), but these are perfect for last resort wire extensions (in lower power applications) as you state.
I've gotten a handfull of electric repaired calls over the years that were just failed wagos. . They weren't cooked or looked look like they had gotten moister... Just failed..I don't trust um. Don't use um
I would still prefer the 2 wire connectors for light fixtures, but the breaker panel sounds like a good application. The one thing that I found them extremely valuable for was troubleshooting two different Lutron smart 3-way switches. I was quickly able to swap the switch around with the secondary accessory switch and get them working. Nothing is more annoying that doing and undoing wire nuts with stranded wires on smart switches. Would also be nice to one day see houses built with something like Wagos as it could make electrical work more plug and play if basically none of the copper wire was exposed.
Great product update. Also great for pigtailed extensions on short wires. Hope Wago adds an in-line 3-in/ 6-out connector for splitting off from a branch line without needing to pull slack from existing line (e.g., cutting into an 12/3 to feed an additional 12/3 branch). Such things are available from their competitors, but I prefer Wago.
I love these wago connectors! I recently installed a few light fixtures (ceiling fans, flush/semi flush mount lights etc) and these made install a breeze as some were replacement fixtures and some were new fixtures. I wish I had saw these single connectors before I started my project but that's on me! I have a few left over but if I were to need more I'm checking your Amazon store for sure! Thank you!
Crazy that you made a video on this cause I was browsing Amazon last Saturday and ordered these for upcoming light fixture upgrades. That light you were hanging are the same ones I ordered from Home Depot on Saturday as well... Thanks for all your tips.
The temporary light is better than what I used to do. I would jus5 stick the wires into a plug to socket adapter and tape it in. Not particularly safe, so this is a much better idea. Thanks for the tip.
As a master electrician and the safety supervisor for an electrical contractor I'll say this. We don't use WAGOs. We hate them. I've seen more than a few fire jobs where wagos were used and not installed correctly. Its really easy to not seat the wire properly causing arching or have it pop out entirely.
The Wago lever type connectors are IMHO the best option for stranded wire. The lever on the sheet metal conductor inside the Wago flattens the strands out for a better connection, way better than wire nuts which were well demonstrated in this vid
Thanks to you making me aware of these a couple years back I used these to connect a 12v wiring harness to an FM repeater where the company that took it out of service cut the wires very close to the enclosure. It was such an easy and clean fix where you wouldn't ordinarily use a wire nut, you'd have to do some soldering and repair it like you did those cell phone charging cables. So it's not just good for high voltage. These buttsplice connectors would be even better.
Excellent ! I added the in-lines based on your previous video. I needed to upgrade a couple of receptacles in very tight outlet boxes where the leads weren't a full 6 inches. But I know they will come in handy for the other applications mentioned. At the time i couldn't find a reasonably small quantity of the 12 Ga ( 221-2401 supports 20-12 AWG solid, 18-12 AWG stranded). So i bought the 14Ga (221-2411 supports Solid 20-14 , Stranded 18…14 ). I don't really understand why they bother to make the 14 Ga, so make sure you buy the right ones
Good question on the 14 gauge. I think maybe those are targetted a bit more to markets running 240V for most fixtures which would lower the standard current and increase the use of 14 gauge. 🤷♂️ I think for the US market now that the product is more available 2401 is the go to but there for about 12 months 2401 and 2411 were really tough to get in the states.
How would this work as a temporary cap? Last time I was installing a lamp I needed something for the hardware store so I capped it with a wire nut. This does have an open side so would that not be advisable?
That's what I've been using now they are nice specially when you have a bunch of wires you accidently cut or rewiring someone else's mess and aren't positive to connections are what in a wiring harness
Love the Wago’s, when you have a 4 square box with 2 outlets in the middle of a run that’s a lot of ground wires and multiple wire nuts to make it all up. I don’t need to tell you that takes up a lot of space, gets kinda tight in there 😅. One thing, I also put a bit of tape around the levers just as a precaution.
I sometimes use the inline connectors when making automotive wire repairs/additions. Especially for things like audio equipment, where components may be swapped out at a later date, and there’s little room for a crimping tool. For more permanent/weatherproof connections, I’ll side on a piece of shrink tubing over the connector.👍
I like the concept of the inline and your second and third use cases, but the first use case, if we're talking in a box, I would think the standard connector uses less space when you tuck it back in. I recently ordered a starter kit before they offered the inline, so I just bought the 20-piece from your list. Thank you!
I'm the electrical lead of one of my local highschool FRC robotics teams and we actually use these wagos a lot for our canbus connections. For our power connections we use Anderson powerpoles though.
Thanks for the feedback, I actually used to work on CANbus daily. Used to take a TON of data on Caterpillar heavy equipment. Was a data 🤓 for many years.
Scott, I just ordered some of the 6-series because there are some 10ga wires I need to use for long home runs. But I also ordered some of Wago's 2773 connectors for two reasons: 1) I wanted a few 4-conductor, 6-conductor, and 8-conductor options that don't exist in the 221 lineup. 2) If you're "designing as you go" --- maybe because it's not yet clear where and how you can run lines in a renovation --- and want temporary use of a circuit or otherwise have not finalized all your home runs and feeder runs, you can finish up with the non-level 2773 style and save quite a bit of money. Supposedly you CAN remove a solid wire from a 2773 connector with a twist and pull, for the inevitable times when that'll be needed. But hey, especially for things like junction boxes, you shouldn't really need to build in disconnects anyway. The only downside is that Wago has not yet released a larger version of the 2773's that will accommodate 10ga.
An 8 conductor wago seems unnecessary, 8 hot, neutral, and grounds is 24 wires and a standard box is only allowed 9 14 awg wires. Or 8 12 awg. Just keep that in mind when neprking on your project, good luck
@@billy9075 Hi Billy. I have several metal J-boxes, at 4 11/16" by 2 1/8". These are represented in the 314.16(a) chart of standard sizes. The NEC says these are 42 cu in boxes. In one example, I'll use 14ga for short runs to 7 room receptacles fed by a long 10ga home run. 14 hots and 14 neutrals of 14ga = 28 cu in, and the two 10ga conductors = 5 cu in. Add another 2 cu in to represent the largest (10ga) ground (the other grounds aren't counted; all grounds = "1 conductor") and I'm still under 36 cu in, with room to spare for the splicer. :)
Great video EHR. I was wondering about those. I purchased a kit and some refills on your Amazon store, but I haven't had occasion for those yet. They seemed to me that it would be "longer" and take up more room, however, the use, especially in a circuit breaker panel box would be ideal. Running out of room myself but need to replace 2 breakers. Thinking of staying with 15 amps even though I've upgraded the wiring to 12 / 2 with ground and am using 20 amps outlets... I will be glad when 14 gauge is no more. Getting tired of rewiring houses. Hope one day I can have a house built to my specs. All 12/2 instead of 14/2 and I am also considering an extra wire just for grounding the box itself to bond with the panel. The less splices, the better. Having all wires connect directly to a socket receptacle, or light fixture or switch, all the better too. Without pigtails even on grounds. Hell just make them all isolated grounds so you're ensured that electronics and stereo equipment is properly grounded regardless of where connected.
If you're using 12/2 why use 15 amp breakers? There's no up side, I'd go with 20 amp breakers and 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacles. 20 amp receptacles offer no advantage either.
@@surferdude642 Because I haven't yet upgraded the breakers. If it isn't broken, I don't want to fix it. 2o amps receptacles allow for a weird plug, which I actually had on a computer power supply unit I had many moons ago. While I haven't encountered them since, I like to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
@@michaeljavert4635 Ok then, but keep in mind that equipment that uses a 20 amp plug is extremely rare and if you ever come across one it's likely to be a fixed appliance and/or require a dedicated circuit meaning a single 20 amp receptacle, not the common duplex.
So agree on the Wagos being a live saver. Just changed a light switch and the old one had really short wires screwed to it (house was built in 1910 and it's knob and tube wiring). Wagoed (spell check says it is a word) the K&T onto some extensions made from Romex scraps. As for the inline splices, I have not yet used them but one spot I can see them being handy is on a portable stereo I have. The charger cord fatigued where the charger's barrel plug entered the stereo's charging port. Spliced a new plug onto the cord but since I suck at soldering, used the old school Wago's to make the connections. (wish Wago made something that had four ports but the bus bar was broken in the middle)
I know a contractor/owner that forbids the use of those things. If an employee has them on their truck or use them, they are terminated immediately. If it’s already in their work location, they must stop work and wait for the shift foreman. Me thinks he doesn’t trust them?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I’ve personally have never used them. Probably never will because of cost alone. I have a crimping tool that I trust implicitly(After going through many). I have to have the tool out anyway for terminals/ring connections. Wago aren’t waterproof where QUALITY adhesive lined heat shrink is. But the look fast.
Had to replace both wireing looms that go to the trunk in my BMW e61 Touring. You have to cut the old looms right behind the hinch above the speakers on the roof laying on your back. Both looms had about 15 individual wires. I have a bad back an they where a lifesaver in that monent. I know they are not really meant to be used in cars but it´s been almost a year and everything works fine. No malfunctions, no error messages .
The inline connector sound great. Is there any word if they are going to make an Inline connector with the ability to have the 2,3, or 5 connectors attached? I am running a BUSS wire and am using IDC connectors and they are a pain to use, but I need the branch circuits and the through wire.
If you are in Canada code verification is essential. You could be 100% responsible after a fire at your own house, they wil cancel you assurance protection.
For me I want to put in a Reliance generator transfer switch on a few critical loads in my house. This requires you to remove the black hot from the breaker, route it over to the transfer box, and then return to the breaker. The transfer box comes with the wires to/from the box, but you still have to connect it to the original black hot somehow. These inline Wago's seem like the perfect item to do that.
I actually just picked up my first samples the other day and giving them a try. Initial impression is they look like a cheaper attempt by IDEAL to copy the WAGO 221 but willing to give them a go 👍
I added some inline Wagos for garage door opener sensors. The sensors don't come with much wire so needed to splice them into a longer wire to then run to the opener itself. Since it's 18 guage wire, the Wagos were perfect for this.
Can you talk or comment on an example where you would be making such a connection in a metal box and how to go about grounding the box? Or you don't need to in this case?
I used six inline Wago connectors in my breaker panel when I put a generator transfer switch in. 2 connectors for extending the neutral and ground to the terminal bars, 4 to connect one side of each transfer switch to the load circuits.
That's where they really shine. I always hated the loop back from using the standard Wagos, or even wire nuts. The inline connectors make it simple, and it just looks better. I also use them for pulling circuits from my breaker box to a sub panel that is powered by solar.
oversize hole in granite backsplash - you show a box accessory that made the hole smaller so the tab on the outlet would not fall into the hole where can i find the item used in the video
Good video I have never used them before but looks like it would be a good way to connect a volt ohm meter to a circuit when trouble shooting a circuit by placing the meter probes in one end of the device and the circuit wires in the other this would leave your hands free for other task. .
Great video, thanks for posting it. Questions: Up to what AWG size can WAGO connectors accommodate? Also, can WAGO connectors be used to splice 3 wires or more together? (such as the need to splice several ground wires together). Thanks, Richard
I love these connectors as I stated in the other 50 posts you did on these same exact ones. But I get it, you are a salesman trying to promote to get your commission. LOL My issue is what you dangerously demonstrating to those who do not know any better. NEVER allow the fixture to hang by the wires as you demonstrated at 03:01. Also, it is NOT the wires purpose or job to carry the weight of the fixture / lights as you said at 03:15 : "... and because vanity lights and ceiling lights were usually up in the air and also holding the fixture..." This is wrong and could compromise the integrity of the connection, solder ..etc which could lead to damaging the connection and ultimately fail on the contact and possibly short.
If you could, please do a video on "Sawdust Enhanced Concrete" I just heard of it, I'm gonna look more into it but it seems like it can be useful by first impressions.
CN ripoff also come with 3 inline wago like😮 Just wondering why people still not use DCL aka IEC CEI-61995 in UK new home en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Device_for_Connection_of_Luminaires ? No, messing with wires on a ladder 🎉
Photovoltaic / Solar Thermal Technician here: stranded wire to solid wire has to be done correctly. stranded wire should not be parallel but 1/8 further than solid wire, then you put the wire nut. i too twist the wire so it doesn't pull. but that Wago on that application is *very nice* 👍
Can these be used in marine application. I’m replacing a manual bilge pump with an automatic one. I will need to cut the old wires and splice on the new ones. Although this will happen in a dry area, above the waterline, the boat will be moored out in the elements. (I will be using Marine grade wires)
They are not water tight. WAGO has Gel Boxes you can get which will make everything water tight but probably expensive and a bit hard to get in the US www.wago.com/us/discover-wire-and-splicing-connectors/gelbox-from-wago
@@EverydayHomeRepairs : Thanks for this information. I will certainly look into this option. Maybe a cheaper option would be an in-line splice completely covered with a heat-shrink sleeve or with a ton of liquid tape all around it. Although my connection could be subject to moisture, it would be sheltered from direct rain or open water. My only concern is possible corrosion. Not worried about “shorts” within the connection.
there are no enclosures where this can be used effectively save for stacked square extensions/octagons, gutters, panels and some masonry boxes. A home gamer has very little to gain from a straight unless they are splicing in a gutter or a large enclosure. If you find you have less than 6 inches of conductor in a box you must remedy that per code, splices do not pass.
Just noticed that the 221-2401 is rated for 20-12 wire size where the 221-412 is rated for 24-12, so there may be a case where you would still need the 221-412 to get a good connection.
Scott, some commenters on here mention Wago 2773s. Would be great to see these added to your test to see how they hold up. On your pull test for stranded/solid connection under a wire nut, past experience seems to result in better pull test results when the stranded wire is inserted into the wire nut and the stranded wire is bottomed out, firmly seated in the end of the nut before placing the solid conductor. However, the Wago really takes the potential concern out of the installation when stranded wire is part of the install.
Have you ever done a test with waco connectors? Voltage and heat test ! I seen some people on TH-cam do not like them. I like them a lot. I used use quick connections in the post office. I was a electronic technician
Several TH-cam videos are out there and for both the Wagos and wire nuts the wires would melt and burst into flames well before either connector would fail. Also, someone did a strength pull test and the Wago would hold upwards of 25 ponds.
Wago is fine... probably the best bet for the home gamer. One should learn how to make a solid connection and properly size wire nuts as well. They are not going away any time soon.
No heat issues. These 412, 413, 415, and 2401 should only be used on 20 Amp circuits but I have seen guys test them at 40, 60, 80, or more Amps. I think it took around 100 Amps to melt them from the heat. WAGO basically failed at the same temp as a wire nut.
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
Electrician here: I usually don't use WAGO connectors due to cost, but there is one scenario in particular where they are a lifesaver. If for whatever reason you have a very short conductor inside of a box that's maybe 1-2 inches long, it is very hard to get a solid and reliable connection with a wirenut to extend that wire. The end to end connector is great for this scenario. (most often the case if drywallers knick your wire). Also works great if you have to do a splice in an LB
Great point, thanks for the feedback!
Wago is sooooo good for commoning 4 or more conductors to keep them nice and straight in the box. They are also a lifesaver for when you're high on a ladder working overhead to replace a light fixture. The splice is just so much faster and arguably superior, especially as light fixtures use stranded wire and I've always hated splicing stranded to solid using wirenuts.
I have a hard time accessing your store. My usual password doesn't work. Is there another way?
Same here. I personally prefer wire nuts for reasons I will not get into here (they cause arguments by people who prefer Wagos), but these are perfect for last resort wire extensions (in lower power applications) as you state.
Ideal makes a connector called SpliceLine that solves this problem.
If I’ve gotten nothing else from this channel, I got WAGO connectors. Greatest thing for me! Of course, there a many other reason I like this channel!
Right on! Thanks for the support 🙌
I've gotten a handfull of electric repaired calls over the years that were just failed wagos. . They weren't cooked or looked look like they had gotten moister... Just failed..I don't trust um. Don't use um
WAGO connectors and that special Milwaukee screwdriver for the receptacle screws for me.
I would still prefer the 2 wire connectors for light fixtures, but the breaker panel sounds like a good application. The one thing that I found them extremely valuable for was troubleshooting two different Lutron smart 3-way switches. I was quickly able to swap the switch around with the secondary accessory switch and get them working. Nothing is more annoying that doing and undoing wire nuts with stranded wires on smart switches. Would also be nice to one day see houses built with something like Wagos as it could make electrical work more plug and play if basically none of the copper wire was exposed.
Ever since I heard about wago connectors on youtube, I've been using them exclusively over wire nut. Definitely worth its cost.
I hate doubling back on wires. Often the electrons get clogged up in the curved part
Great product update.
Also great for pigtailed extensions on short wires.
Hope Wago adds an in-line 3-in/ 6-out connector for splitting off from a branch line without needing to pull slack from existing line (e.g., cutting into an 12/3 to feed an additional 12/3 branch). Such things are available from their competitors, but I prefer Wago.
The temporary light fixture is a great idea. I never used this product but seems it is a breakthrough. Thank you for sharing
You bet, definitely an upgrade from the default wire nut.
I love these wago connectors! I recently installed a few light fixtures (ceiling fans, flush/semi flush mount lights etc) and these made install a breeze as some were replacement fixtures and some were new fixtures. I wish I had saw these single connectors before I started my project but that's on me! I have a few left over but if I were to need more I'm checking your Amazon store for sure! Thank you!
Those are so worth buying just for the temporary lighting. Thanks for keeping us updated with your videos.
Prepare yourself....incoming boomer electricians calling you a hack for using wagos....😅
😂
Crazy that you made a video on this cause I was browsing Amazon last Saturday and ordered these for upcoming light fixture upgrades. That light you were hanging are the same ones I ordered from Home Depot on Saturday as well... Thanks for all your tips.
Nice, great minds think alike.
The temporary light is better than what I used to do. I would jus5 stick the wires into a plug to socket adapter and tape it in. Not particularly safe, so this is a much better idea. Thanks for the tip.
i use these for testing lights for buzzing/humming with varying dimmers and overall light/dimmer functionality. you should too.
Can these WAGO connectors be re-used? For example, if replacing a ceiling fan?
Great tip, I have started using these since I watched an earlier video of yours and they have made my wiring project much easier! Thanks
As a master electrician and the safety supervisor for an electrical contractor I'll say this. We don't use WAGOs. We hate them. I've seen more than a few fire jobs where wagos were used and not installed correctly. Its really easy to not seat the wire properly causing arching or have it pop out entirely.
The Wago lever type connectors are IMHO the best option for stranded wire. The lever on the sheet metal conductor inside the Wago flattens the strands out for a better connection, way better than wire nuts which were well demonstrated in this vid
The wires should have been pre twisted so the wire nut doesn’t push the stranded out.
Thanks to you making me aware of these a couple years back I used these to connect a 12v wiring harness to an FM repeater where the company that took it out of service cut the wires very close to the enclosure. It was such an easy and clean fix where you wouldn't ordinarily use a wire nut, you'd have to do some soldering and repair it like you did those cell phone charging cables. So it's not just good for high voltage. These buttsplice connectors would be even better.
Excellent ! I added the in-lines based on your previous video. I needed to upgrade a couple of receptacles in very tight outlet boxes where the leads weren't a full 6 inches. But I know they will come in handy for the other applications mentioned. At the time i couldn't find a reasonably small quantity of the 12 Ga ( 221-2401 supports 20-12 AWG solid, 18-12 AWG stranded). So i bought the 14Ga (221-2411 supports Solid 20-14 , Stranded 18…14 ). I don't really understand why they bother to make the 14 Ga, so make sure you buy the right ones
Good question on the 14 gauge. I think maybe those are targetted a bit more to markets running 240V for most fixtures which would lower the standard current and increase the use of 14 gauge. 🤷♂️ I think for the US market now that the product is more available 2401 is the go to but there for about 12 months 2401 and 2411 were really tough to get in the states.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs good evening,
Dude where do you purchase your wago?
How would this work as a temporary cap? Last time I was installing a lamp I needed something for the hardware store so I capped it with a wire nut. This does have an open side so would that not be advisable?
I would use a WAGO 221-412 which is just the standard 2-wire lever nut
@@EverydayHomeRepairs good to know. Thanks!
I just recently used the line connectors for extending speaker wires. Very easy and solid connection. Much better than braiding and taping.
That's what I've been using now they are nice specially when you have a bunch of wires you accidently cut or rewiring someone else's mess and aren't positive to connections are what in a wiring harness
wagos are great like you said, espec. if you plan on adding a circuit later on
👍
I have single bulb fixtures on alligators clips for temp lighting. I like the Wagos better.
super handy 👍
Love the Wago’s, when you have a 4 square box with 2 outlets in the middle of a run that’s a lot of ground wires and multiple wire nuts to make it all up. I don’t need to tell you that takes up a lot of space, gets kinda tight in there 😅. One thing, I also put a bit of tape around the levers just as a precaution.
Electrical tape across the levers is brilliant and everyone should do it actually 🙂
I just bought the 10 awg one. It is so hard to twist those wires together, much easier to use the wago
I really like the WAGO Lever nuts and use them on a fairly regular basis.
I liked your well organized test and presentation!
Well done!
I sometimes use the inline connectors when making automotive wire repairs/additions. Especially for things like audio equipment, where components may be swapped out at a later date, and there’s little room for a crimping tool. For more permanent/weatherproof connections, I’ll side on a piece of shrink tubing over the connector.👍
I like the concept of the inline and your second and third use cases, but the first use case, if we're talking in a box, I would think the standard connector uses less space when you tuck it back in.
I recently ordered a starter kit before they offered the inline, so I just bought the 20-piece from your list. Thank you!
I'm the electrical lead of one of my local highschool FRC robotics teams and we actually use these wagos a lot for our canbus connections. For our power connections we use Anderson powerpoles though.
Thanks for the feedback, I actually used to work on CANbus daily. Used to take a TON of data on Caterpillar heavy equipment. Was a data 🤓 for many years.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs impressive, just like the rest of your channel
How do you recommend splicing/connecting 2/4/6 awg wires? (Eg for EV charger)
Scott, I just ordered some of the 6-series because there are some 10ga wires I need to use for long home runs. But I also ordered some of Wago's 2773 connectors for two reasons:
1) I wanted a few 4-conductor, 6-conductor, and 8-conductor options that don't exist in the 221 lineup.
2) If you're "designing as you go" --- maybe because it's not yet clear where and how you can run lines in a renovation --- and want temporary use of a circuit or otherwise have not finalized all your home runs and feeder runs, you can finish up with the non-level 2773 style and save quite a bit of money.
Supposedly you CAN remove a solid wire from a 2773 connector with a twist and pull, for the inevitable times when that'll be needed. But hey, especially for things like junction boxes, you shouldn't really need to build in disconnects anyway. The only downside is that Wago has not yet released a larger version of the 2773's that will accommodate 10ga.
An 8 conductor wago seems unnecessary, 8 hot, neutral, and grounds is 24 wires and a standard box is only allowed 9 14 awg wires. Or 8 12 awg. Just keep that in mind when neprking on your project, good luck
@@billy9075 Hi Billy. I have several metal J-boxes, at 4 11/16" by 2 1/8". These are represented in the 314.16(a) chart of standard sizes. The NEC says these are 42 cu in boxes.
In one example, I'll use 14ga for short runs to 7 room receptacles fed by a long 10ga home run. 14 hots and 14 neutrals of 14ga = 28 cu in, and the two 10ga conductors = 5 cu in. Add another 2 cu in to represent the largest (10ga) ground (the other grounds aren't counted; all grounds = "1 conductor") and I'm still under 36 cu in, with room to spare for the splicer. :)
Great video EHR. I was wondering about those. I purchased a kit and some refills on your Amazon store, but I haven't had occasion for those yet. They seemed to me that it would be "longer" and take up more room, however, the use, especially in a circuit breaker panel box would be ideal. Running out of room myself but need to replace 2 breakers. Thinking of staying with 15 amps even though I've upgraded the wiring to 12 / 2 with ground and am using 20 amps outlets... I will be glad when 14 gauge is no more. Getting tired of rewiring houses. Hope one day I can have a house built to my specs. All 12/2 instead of 14/2 and I am also considering an extra wire just for grounding the box itself to bond with the panel. The less splices, the better. Having all wires connect directly to a socket receptacle, or light fixture or switch, all the better too. Without pigtails even on grounds. Hell just make them all isolated grounds so you're ensured that electronics and stereo equipment is properly grounded regardless of where connected.
Yeah, depending on the application I bounce between the inline splice (2401) and the standard 412 WAGO lever nut.
If you're using 12/2 why use 15 amp breakers? There's no up side, I'd go with 20 amp breakers and 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacles. 20 amp receptacles offer no advantage either.
@@surferdude642 Because I haven't yet upgraded the breakers. If it isn't broken, I don't want to fix it. 2o amps receptacles allow for a weird plug, which I actually had on a computer power supply unit I had many moons ago. While I haven't encountered them since, I like to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
@@michaeljavert4635 Ok then, but keep in mind that equipment that uses a 20 amp plug is extremely rare and if you ever come across one it's likely to be a fixed appliance and/or require a dedicated circuit meaning a single 20 amp receptacle, not the common duplex.
Used the Wago's this past weekend ... They're awesome ... Thx for all you do ...
You bet, thanks for the support!
So agree on the Wagos being a live saver. Just changed a light switch and the old one had really short wires screwed to it (house was built in 1910 and it's knob and tube wiring). Wagoed (spell check says it is a word) the K&T onto some extensions made from Romex scraps.
As for the inline splices, I have not yet used them but one spot I can see them being handy is on a portable stereo I have. The charger cord fatigued where the charger's barrel plug entered the stereo's charging port. Spliced a new plug onto the cord but since I suck at soldering, used the old school Wago's to make the connections. (wish Wago made something that had four ports but the bus bar was broken in the middle)
I have been using these WAGO connectors and like them. Could you do a video on the different colors they offer and what they stand for?
4:18 A 100 watt LED bulb?! The most I've seen in stores (in my country) is 20 something watt (~2,000 lumen).
I know a contractor/owner that forbids the use of those things. If an employee has them on their truck or use them, they are terminated immediately. If it’s already in their work location, they must stop work and wait for the shift foreman. Me thinks he doesn’t trust them?
Not sure where he is getting the fear of WAGOs 🤷♂️ Might be a bit set in his ways.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs
I’ve personally have never used them. Probably never will because of cost alone. I have a crimping tool that I trust implicitly(After going through many). I have to have the tool out anyway for terminals/ring connections. Wago aren’t waterproof where QUALITY adhesive lined heat shrink is. But the look fast.
Some old fogies just can't change with the times.
Had to replace both wireing looms that go to the trunk in my BMW e61 Touring. You have to cut the old looms right behind the hinch above the speakers on the roof laying on your back. Both looms had about 15 individual wires. I have a bad back an they where a lifesaver in that monent. I know they are not really meant to be used in cars but it´s been almost a year and everything works fine. No malfunctions, no error messages .
Thanks, That was a real nice informative video.
I really like those inline ones.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I just ordered 60 of them today!
@@davidh.8513 👊
The Wago connectors are absolutely the best way to connect solid house wiring to stranded fixture wires.
💯
Not gonna lie, these Wago connector are a good life saver.
The inline connector sound great. Is there any word if they are going to make an Inline connector with the ability to have the 2,3, or 5 connectors attached? I am running a BUSS wire and am using IDC connectors and they are a pain to use, but I need the branch circuits and the through wire.
If you are in Canada code verification is essential. You could be 100% responsible after a fire at your own house, they wil cancel you assurance protection.
For me I want to put in a Reliance generator transfer switch on a few critical loads in my house. This requires you to remove the black hot from the breaker, route it over to the transfer box, and then return to the breaker. The transfer box comes with the wires to/from the box, but you still have to connect it to the original black hot somehow. These inline Wago's seem like the perfect item to do that.
Solid to stranded very important
Great news real WAGO finally made a copy of Chinese wago copy.
I like wago, but I've got many with 6+ wires. I don't see any wago solutions.
Ideal also has lever connectors. Called Insure. Don’t have to open the lever to insert wires. Sold at Home Depot too.
I actually just picked up my first samples the other day and giving them a try. Initial impression is they look like a cheaper attempt by IDEAL to copy the WAGO 221 but willing to give them a go 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Not a cheap knock off. I think you’ll be impressed with the quality.
Please avoid using these for high amperage current in a closed box, they heat. Old school twist & solder or twist & weld is more reliable.
Unfortunately, I have an old house I have a aluminum wiring should I pigtail and use these connectors to replace an outlet
I added some inline Wagos for garage door opener sensors. The sensors don't come with much wire so needed to splice them into a longer wire to then run to the opener itself. Since it's 18 guage wire, the Wagos were perfect for this.
I'm getting ready to install an opener and was just wondering if these would work for that purpose. Thank you!
I purchased the battery screwdriver you recommended in a video. Can you use bits other than the long dual end that comes with it?
O heard your comment about their use in an electrical pannel. Can these Inline wagos be used in wall without a junction box?
Wish WAGO made something for 6/3 wire.
why don't they have an 2401 inline for 10AWG or a 10AWG 4 wire? those are the ones I need.
If you know how to properly wrap a solid & stranded wire together, there is no problem with a wire nut pulling off.
Yours eyes are so cool! Mine are like yours but blue, my wife always says they stand out.
Can you talk or comment on an example where you would be making such a connection in a metal box and how to go about grounding the box? Or you don't need to in this case?
Can you figure out how to get the Wago gel boxes over here? I'd love to use these for my outdoor lighting instead of those awful goo-filled wire nuts.
Hi: Can I use the single wire connector to repair my 12 gauge extension cord?
Still to expensive for the home owner who does wiring about once or twice a year and already has dozens of wire nuts and knows how to use them.
ENOUGH OF YOU PUSHING WEGO--I’m fed up AND GONE
Oh hey Wago is taking ideas from third party knockoffs.
I used six inline Wago connectors in my breaker panel when I put a generator transfer switch in. 2 connectors for extending the neutral and ground to the terminal bars, 4 to connect one side of each transfer switch to the load circuits.
That's where they really shine. I always hated the loop back from using the standard Wagos, or even wire nuts. The inline connectors make it simple, and it just looks better.
I also use them for pulling circuits from my breaker box to a sub panel that is powered by solar.
oversize hole in granite backsplash - you show a box accessory that made the hole smaller so the tab on the outlet would not fall into the hole where can i find the item used in the video
You didn't do pull test on wago lol... overpriced stuff.
Good video I have never used them before but looks like it would be a good way to connect a volt ohm meter to a circuit when trouble shooting a circuit by placing the meter probes in one end of the device and the circuit wires in the other this would leave your hands free for other task. .
All WAGOs actually have built in test ports where you can just test with the connector in place using a standard probe
I've often wondered why there wasn't a butt connector for 110v.
if installing a new circut and my ground bus bar is full can I do an inline splice with the ground wire
Great video, thanks for posting it.
Questions: Up to what AWG size can WAGO connectors accommodate? Also, can WAGO connectors be used to splice 3 wires or more together? (such as the need to splice several ground wires together).
Thanks, Richard
One thing to keep in mind about wire nuts is they are TECHNICALLY considered single use. WAGO can be reused.
That shirt is great. Please tell me it finishes with “tape their receptacles” or something
I love these connectors as I stated in the other 50 posts you did on these same exact ones. But I get it, you are a salesman trying to promote to get your commission. LOL
My issue is what you dangerously demonstrating to those who do not know any better. NEVER allow the fixture to hang by the wires as you demonstrated at 03:01. Also, it is NOT the wires purpose or job to carry the weight of the fixture / lights as you said at 03:15 : "... and because vanity lights and ceiling lights were usually up in the air and also holding the fixture..." This is wrong and could compromise the integrity of the connection, solder ..etc which could lead to damaging the connection and ultimately fail on the contact and possibly short.
If you could, please do a video on "Sawdust Enhanced Concrete" I just heard of it, I'm gonna look more into it but it seems like it can be useful by first impressions.
CN ripoff also come with 3 inline wago like😮 Just wondering why people still not use DCL aka IEC CEI-61995 in UK new home en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Device_for_Connection_of_Luminaires ? No, messing with wires on a ladder 🎉
The 613 was a huge lifesaver for me seeing it can do 10 AWG. and the inline splice I made a test cord for myself.
My complaint about these is that they sometimes don't handle insulated ferrules very well.
Are these wago connectors ok to use per the national electrical code?
can I install AFCI/GFCI recepticles in every outlet in a older home that has open ground ?
What if the stranded wire doesn’t fit in the connector and a few strands won’t go in?
Photovoltaic / Solar Thermal Technician here: stranded wire to solid wire has to be done correctly. stranded wire should not be parallel but 1/8 further than solid wire, then you put the wire nut. i too twist the wire so it doesn't pull. but that Wago on that application is *very nice* 👍
Do you also use the Wago's on outdoor porch or wall lights?
Can these be used in marine application. I’m replacing a manual bilge pump with an automatic one. I will need to cut the old wires and splice on the new ones. Although this will happen in a dry area, above the waterline, the boat will be moored out in the elements. (I will be using Marine grade wires)
They are not water tight. WAGO has Gel Boxes you can get which will make everything water tight but probably expensive and a bit hard to get in the US www.wago.com/us/discover-wire-and-splicing-connectors/gelbox-from-wago
@@EverydayHomeRepairs : Thanks for this information. I will certainly look into this option.
Maybe a cheaper option would be an in-line splice completely covered with a heat-shrink sleeve or with a ton of liquid tape all around it. Although my connection could be subject to moisture, it would be sheltered from direct rain or open water. My only concern is possible corrosion. Not worried about “shorts” within the connection.
Can the be used on outdoor sconce fixtures without a box?
Scott is a stealth Wago marketing employee. Lol
No doubt, I need a raise 😂
If I wore a shirt like that, people would invite me over to do electrical work for them.
Get them while they last everyday-home-repairs.creator-spring.com/listing/don-t-tape-outlets-t-shirt
I just recently started putting 20 layers of 130C tape on my receptacles just to piss off the anti tapers😅
there are no enclosures where this can be used effectively save for stacked square extensions/octagons, gutters, panels and some masonry boxes. A home gamer has very little to gain from a straight unless they are splicing in a gutter or a large enclosure. If you find you have less than 6 inches of conductor in a box you must remedy that per code, splices do not pass.
Wago 224-... will be better to power the lamp
Another great video Scott. Love all of yours. Thanks
Thanks so much for the support 👍
Just noticed that the 221-2401 is rated for 20-12 wire size where the 221-412 is rated for 24-12, so there may be a case where you would still need the 221-412 to get a good connection.
Scott, some commenters on here mention Wago 2773s. Would be great to see these added to your test to see how they hold up.
On your pull test for stranded/solid connection under a wire nut, past experience seems to result in better pull test results when the stranded wire is inserted into the wire nut and the stranded wire is bottomed out, firmly seated in the end of the nut before placing the solid conductor. However, the Wago really takes the potential concern out of the installation when stranded wire is part of the install.
Wago vs Ideal connectors?
Most common use of these, for me, is cleaning up jerks who shove 2 or 3 wires on one terminal in electrical outlets and making clean connections.
I used them to quickly extend the antenna on my remote controlled gate. Saved me a few minutes in the south texas heat using wire nuts.
👍
Have you ever done a test with waco connectors? Voltage and heat test ! I seen some people on TH-cam do not like them. I like them a lot. I used use quick connections in the post office. I was a electronic technician
Several TH-cam videos are out there and for both the Wagos and wire nuts the wires would melt and burst into flames well before either connector would fail. Also, someone did a strength pull test and the Wago would hold upwards of 25 ponds.
Wago is fine... probably the best bet for the home gamer. One should learn how to make a solid connection and properly size wire nuts as well. They are not going away any time soon.
Have you seen heat problems with the Wago on 20+ amp circuits?
No heat issues. These 412, 413, 415, and 2401 should only be used on 20 Amp circuits but I have seen guys test them at 40, 60, 80, or more Amps. I think it took around 100 Amps to melt them from the heat. WAGO basically failed at the same temp as a wire nut.
if you using the 3 or 5 contact wago always put the supply line in the middle for better load dispersion
They look like a good option to use.