Hi Adam! It's made from recycled plastic so I don't think so, plenty of builds use this stuff without issues. We also installed a vapor barrier so we shouldn't get any condensation on the inside of the metal. Thanks!
It doesnt 'hold' moisture like other materials but I dont see the point of the stuffing all the top holes with insulation, there's simply not enough insulation (R) to make it worth it when use in that way. Spray foam would work but I wouldnt recommend that as its a mess and permanent. IMO let air flow but reduce the temperature difference where you can i.e. best just to cover over the outside of the strut surface with 6-12mm closed cell foam then, where applicable , use adhesive to stick the plastic insulation in the deeper sections ontop of the closed cell foam. Remember, for condensation, the point is to increase the distance for which there is a temperature difference thats what causes moisture to condense (i.e. outside of van freezing, inside warm, 1.5mm metal panel = huge temperature difference = water forming.... 1.5mm + 12-18mm foam stops the sudden temp change) . Aside as you may be about to insulate your van - You can also baton to the side of the pressed steel beams, again cover with closed cell foam, then screw the roof up which means other than the 6-7mm for the foam, you dont loose headroom; same with the walls. IMO, and I know this differs from other opinion, PIR board is awkward mostly unsuitable material for a van. That said, XPS is good for under the floor because its load capacity. No idea if this post will be visible given the previous shenanigans 🙄
That bending of the buttons idea is genius. Really like how your mind works. Thanks a lot for the effort making these videos.
Thanks for watching! Can't take credit for it🤣 I saw it in some random Facebook carpentry video a while ago! (cant find link 😢)
@@CasLaz no worries, well the main thing is, that you figured it out and show it to us ha ha. Good video, enjoy watching you two.
Great update and info 👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos!
Where did you buy the sound deadening material ?
You only put slices on the one side dude 😃
May I know what's the measurements of the batten you used on the ceiling? Thank you!
Hey, there is a link in the description for the battens we used, hope it helps
Will the cotton wool looking kinda insulation not absorb condensation and over time cause rust issues?
Hi Adam! It's made from recycled plastic so I don't think so, plenty of builds use this stuff without issues. We also installed a vapor barrier so we shouldn't get any condensation on the inside of the metal. Thanks!
@@CasLaz Ahhh right wicked!
It doesnt 'hold' moisture like other materials but I dont see the point of the stuffing all the top holes with insulation, there's simply not enough insulation (R) to make it worth it when use in that way. Spray foam would work but I wouldnt recommend that as its a mess and permanent. IMO let air flow but reduce the temperature difference where you can i.e. best just to cover over the outside of the strut surface with 6-12mm closed cell foam then, where applicable , use adhesive to stick the plastic insulation in the deeper sections ontop of the closed cell foam. Remember, for condensation, the point is to increase the distance for which there is a temperature difference thats what causes moisture to condense (i.e. outside of van freezing, inside warm, 1.5mm metal panel = huge temperature difference = water forming.... 1.5mm + 12-18mm foam stops the sudden temp change) . Aside as you may be about to insulate your van - You can also baton to the side of the pressed steel beams, again cover with closed cell foam, then screw the roof up which means other than the 6-7mm for the foam, you dont loose headroom; same with the walls. IMO, and I know this differs from other opinion, PIR board is awkward mostly unsuitable material for a van. That said, XPS is good for under the floor because its load capacity. No idea if this post will be visible given the previous shenanigans 🙄