Smart Car CDI, Rough Running Fix This One Sensor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2022
- Intake Pressure Sensor hose full of oil. No sensor input, runs rough& blows smoke midrange rpm.
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Good video. Have you ever removed the intake manifold? If so does the fuel rail have to come off as well please? I think I might have a bit of an egr blanking plate in it. Cheers
I havn't had to remove an intake manifold. Most likely have to remove fuel rail, looks like sits over top intake manifold. Fuel lines there also, careful with plastic if nipples on lines, break easily. Fuel rail comes pretty easy if want it out of the way. Just have to make sure injector lines are tight enough not to leak. fuel rail pressure much higher while driving than at idle. Egr blanking plate is bolted to egr valve body not intake manifold. Blanking plate can be installed or removed by loosening exaust/egr cooler pipe coming from turbo. If the blanking plate is a slide in type. If follow small pipe up to egr body below injection pump you will be able to see if has a blanking plate installed.
@@manbuilds1587 thanks for the reply. Yeah I've got the remains of a very thin blanking plate. There's a big hole in it and what's broken off isn't in the egr valve so it has to be in the intake. The intake has loads of gunge in it so hopefully the broken off bits are trapped in the gunge. The car runs and drives ok but I have very low boost and it goes into limp home mode unless I really boot it. Thanks again
Could try a borescope & a magnet or tool to scrape out gunk. Maybe will see it. Seen block off plates on ebay for sale that can just slide in without removing egr.
Hi I just had an idea that the smart was under fueling I got it tuned by flying tiger is was much better, but seemed to be running out of injector volume so I ordered some sprinter van or E320 injector tips and it’s a totally different car you won’t believe it
Pretty cool, Does it roll some coal?
Larger tips or just better spray. its cool the pump can keep up. Higher injection pressure also?
@@manbuilds1587 it does especially cool passing a car on the highway I’ll get a video for you
haha, ok
Do you have a part number for those injector tips so I can try that on mine? Thanks!
i am having this EXACT issue. 2005
it stutters in reverse and first but works great on the highway. I guess it’s in limp mode as the check engine light is on. I have an appointment with Mercedes but not for another six weeks!! i’ll try this!! if it works i’ll report back
probable egr sticking. Hard to say with out scanner. Could also be a broken wire to intake air temperature sensor. Just a guess.
Quick check egr Could remove the selenoid ontop egr valve & spray some penetrating oil on top & try depress the valve a few times to see if sticking & can loosen it up. Then put selenoid back in place. easy to do right on top. think 3-4 small bolts. The smart will turn the light off if no issue after 3-5 start ups & running. something like that any way. Uncle weiner there has cheap scanners that will work for european & canadian models needed for the smart. Will tell you what it is right away for less than half price diagnose at mercedes.
I dont have alot of confidence in auto techs that work at shops these days. You take your chances with them. If find a good tech that knows the Fortwo then consider yourself lucky. These car are old to them & almost forgotten already. They are more than happy to change huge amounts for simple fixes & sometimes cock things up & charge huge amounts & then huge amounts to fix. Buying a cheap scanner might save you alot money & headache. Trust in self be scepticle of dealer, good help is hard to find these days.
@@manbuilds1587 wow thanks for reply. yes canadian model model. i didn’t see a hose when looking at the MAF , appeared to be all electrical. the dealership is mercedes and is an official smart centre. it only has 64,000km and from booklet appears to have been brought into this shop every 10,000km for service. i hope it’s not the clutch pressure plate like i saw in other videos. it’s DEF in limp mode cause it’s got no power and engine light on. i’ll see about trying what you mentioned. i just picked it up this week for the wife. drives fine but SLOW rn, auto mode won’t shift out of 3rd. manual does but lack of power.
@@manbuilds1587 i’ll pick up a scanner if i need to. i’m not the type to bring something to a shop and tell them what i think it need by whatever code i read on a scanner. ya know? :)
@@branscombe_ you sound like some one who has never been cocked over by a dealer ship. I was at a dealership once, waiting to use there press to get a bearing pressed out. A gentleman called in to the front desk to check on his vehicle, that was miss firing. The service tech said he had one melted sparkplug wire that was causing the miss fire. So they changed all the sparkplug wires & that cost the customer 1400.00. The service guy then bullshitted the customer into accepting the repair. At least that is how I am remembering it, was a while ago now. The customer could have got a cheap scanner, read misfire cylinder # & changed 1 wire for 100.00 or less & been on his way with out the hassle & the high price tag. Shop rate is close to 200.00 hr these days. If you have the fault code you could arm yourself with a bit of info before repair or repair it yourself. Is one of reason why I made some videos about. Careful putting your faith in someone trying to make money off you. Good luck Sir, hopefully you get a good technician.
Ever had an issue with cold starts? I have a 2006 cdi with roughly 170k on it. Even right now if i cycle the glow plugs four times i can get it started ok. Stalls out in the mornings. Changed fuel filter, air filter, glow plugs. Same unit had some new connectors put on last summer. I am thinking glow plug module but would rather not just keep throwing money at it and not fix it.
if module is burned out, could just install a switch & run 12v power wire to glow plugs. Need a thicker wire & good switch to handle the amps. Can just tie into wire going to glow plugs & change relay later if find a good cheap one a junk yard or some where. If do a switch have to remember to shut it off after 15s or so. Glow plug relay is just a big switch. Cheaper option than order new one.
There is the fuel shut off selenoid on injection pump that could be doing that also, or fault crank shaft position sensor but if that fail it usually will not start or run at all.
Could be multiple things, lower compression, glow plugs burned out, plugged catylatic converter plugged & not letting engine breath, egr valve stuck open.
Ok.not sure about burned out glow plugs as they were brand new installed about 4 months ago. I am thinking its not fuel related as it has white smoke which i am thinking is unburned diesel. The problem started mid winter and didnt think much of it with alberta winters but i have noticed nothing improving. If anything has gotten a little worse. I was pretty well down to it being the glow plug controller, injectors or cam sensor. Egr has been deleted in tune but is still present and disconnected. Runs fine after it has been running for two min or so. The start up is just a pain.
I was not sure if maybe solders were poorly done like the sam unit had as well. Soldered directly to the board and used marine connectors for that.
maybe the soldering but I didnt see a pin out on sam that i dicates glow plug relay,
Smart car cycles glow plugs more in the winter for sure, if was gonna fail it would most likely be then.
www.evilution.co.uk/mod/450-sam-unit-pin-out.htm
Hey bro, how the cid behaves on the cold? Did you put anything to block the air intake?
I put a piece of carpet to block the cold air completely from the intake in the front. It has a hard time to start in weather colder than -20 °c, have to plug in. I have driven around all day & night in weather below -30°c. Heater is not the best but is ok once the car is fully warmed up while driving. At idle the car will start get cold again. Is best a summer car but can drive in winter, im on 3rd. Year driving in winter as my main vehicle.
Like most cars the cooling system is a bypass flow system that constantly circulates a small amount of coolant. Problem is in the smart cdi the bypass line is too large & the car has hard time to get up to temperature when cold. Have to heat all the coolant up, not just the coolant in the head. If need better heater a guy could rrstrict the bypass coolsn flow by pinching the bypass hose partially or adding a restriction in the line.
Thanks for your reply, I live in the Vancouver area, so it won't be a problem I think..
@@tavolamarque yah in Vancouver the heater is sufficient. It would help with warm ups to block the front or partially block if highway driving even mild winter. I drove until it was 10°c after winter before I removed the carpet from the front & then only partially. It wont overheat if fully covered, will help it get to temperature to run properly. If hear the cooling fan kicking on & off alot then maybe open the front up for some air. Around town in the city a guy could keep the front covered all year around. Haha it really doesnt make enough heat to get hot unless driving on tbe highway. Only need some good wiper blades in the Vancouver winter :)
Thank you so much for your help bro!
I used a vacuum pump and sucked the oil out of the hose
Is this a MAP sensor manifold, absolute pressure sensor code P2227
It wont give a code unless diconnected. Its a map sensor, mercedes has a different name for it.
Could you put a bleeder valve on the hose?
I was thinking about that too. A tee fitting with a piece of clear hose on bottom with a plug would probable wkrk ok. I removed the crank case vent from the intake on my car, so no more oil coming in.
That car had almost 200 000km on it when I realised oil in pipe, It may take a long time to build up enough oil to plug the pipe. If car in good shape, maybe blow it out & is good for 50k, not sure.
@@manbuilds1587 I was thinking tee fitting with a valve and clear plastic tube going to the bottom of the engine. But, your way would probably work as well
@@JA-rn2fz tee fitting is about 1.00. But those tiny valves are really expensive at the store. online best bet.
@@manbuilds1587 I think your way can fine. You can always put a removable hose clamp on the plug.
@@JA-rn2fz Could just thread a screw into end of the hose. Its not very professional looking but it wont blow out if threaded in tight.& is rubber line.
Perhaps… mmm. Vacuum out the line … ?
Vacume or blow it out. Just dont blow or vacume the sensor. Could damage it & give imprpper reading.
hey man, could you call me or txt me i need your help with my smart car