We are so glad you all are liking this video and our build! Just to let everyone know, the house, including this garage floor, has been designed by a structural engineer. Concrete floors/decks over living spaces is very common around the world. We are doing LiteDeck for our roof, so stay tuned! (And subscribe) 😁
@ lake to build Do I want to watch you? Or the work in progress? I'm confused. So less of you on camera and more of the work! If that make sens. Thanks.
I'm very interested in ICF construction. Here in the middle east the temps can reach over 50°C (especially around this time of the year) we already use reinforced concrete and CMU's but absolutely no thermal insulation whatsoever.
My next house will be icf. I will also help my daughter build her first house before I do mine. Call it a practice run with icf. This is the only way to build in the southeast USA in my humble opinion. No hurricane nor tornadoes gonna evict me from my house.
I've seen ICF walls built, but this is the first floor. Looks great! I find the whole process fascinating. Energy efficient and should be structurally very strong as well compared to traditional stick construction.
Little Tip, use a 3 #prong Rebar Bender "Hickey" with a 3/4" pipe, and you will get a perfect Right Angel on your 1/2" Rebar from perimeter wall, on to deck and not damage the LiteDeck forms. Stronger walls to deck tie in.......... Thx 416 L.A. So. Cal
Did you put any slope on the garage slab? (towards the garage door) When I built my garage I asked the concrete guys to put a slope of 1/8 inch per foot, and for the most part it was good, but there are a couple of low spots that "puddle" if the car goes into the garage wet and drains off in the garage.
Yes. We did a slope from the back out to the front. We may need to put in a drain on the driveway since it slopes from the street. We will know more after our final backfill and grating.
probably a bit late on this but, I would consult an electrician about those conduits. I know that once you start shoving more than 3 wires through a hole you typically have to start derating the wire.
Three current carrying conductors, that is hots and neutrals, grounds do not carry current except for a short circuit so it is for a very short period of time so the wires will not get that hot before the breaker trips that's why they are not counted.
I saw the product at woc several years ago. Good idea if its cost effective. Other options are a pan system which is still used for parking garages. Basically the same thing except done with square pans on a flat deck. What we see mostly is hollow core planks. A little expensive but time saving is huge. 2 days and your garage floor is poured. 7 days after pour you can park on it. I believe up to a 40 foot clear span. Interesting and informative.
@@LakeLotBuild I've never personally done the pans but I would think it to be the cheapest even after paying for an engineer. I have set alot of hollow core. It is kind of expensive and takes a crane but a great finished product. I wish you the best of luck with your build.
Awesome! We built one very similar for a customer about 15 years ago. Only difference was the engineer specced post tension cables in the garage floor to support load. I think we were 29 feet outside dimension if I remember correctly. And we did conventional wood trusses for the roof. Very interested in seeing the poured roof. 👍🏼
IMHO adjustable scaffolding as the floor supports would be safer, more accurate and be easier to install then remove after the concrete is cured. Not a fan of the non-adjustable "t" 2x4 braces.
Very interesting. From my perspective it was kind of difficult to watch due to your appearances on the view and switching on the takes. It's better to focus on the job (as it was at the beginning of pouring the concrete). Unless this was live with interaction. Anyway, great and adventurous build. Respectfully from a guy that knows nothing of content creation.
Thank you for watching! We have taken comments like yours to heart. You will see in our more recent videos that we try to show more of the building process and the products used. As this is TH-cam, we also try to have an entertainment angle as well, but we know people want to see the build the most.
At 7:06 I would have opened up the slot close to the wall, so that around the two rebar on the wall in each slot, there would be more concrete to keep the tensioned ends more secure on the wall capture, just in case the thin beam effect at the end cracks, and the rebar slips. I would even think that the light stuff would not go as far as the wall surface edge below. I am not so happy with the capture of the roof slab on top of the wall, He needs to be careful about the crown effect mentioned at 10:36 as there is no vertical ties to the rebar and when the crown settles the arc will be tensioned downwards putting the vertical web of the concrete narrow beam in tension. The integral structure would mean that the wall will buckle if the crown drops. That construction is going to drum the integrated walls and the roofs. The scene at 14: 27 makes my heart ache as the rebar emerging from the wall curving on to the horizontal are in the wrong position and that corner will not like any vibrations, putting the higher part of the concrete corner in tension hence cracking
This is very cool! I'd never heard of LiteDeck before and I was wondering how concrete floors were put on top of ICF. This explains it for me. I do wonder if there is a way to tape the forms from the underside to block any dripping, but that would take more time & $. I wasn't aware that concrete could dry/cure too fast.
That is a great idea for a video! It is doing great. In fact, we are just now getting around to finishing the drywall and painting the garage. We've been able to park in the garage several times and there's no signs of stress, strain or any problems. People inside the house and under the garage can't hear cars pulling in. We are very happy with it.
I'm Happy to hear. We are using that system for the entire house about 3500sqft. Of insuldeck. There are very few videos and like seeing how others tackle it. Thank You
Got me wondering about another 2nd story underneath! That bottom suspension would require at least two or three courses since a 3rd surface house appears feasible.
They put the joint in a middle of a block and tie in the rebar on both pours, so it should not be a problem, at least that is what the ICF contractor tells us. It is the way he has done it on all his homes.
I'm not sure the specifics. The engineers designed it to hold two cars and garage full of cabinets and tools. LiteDeck might have actual loads and drawings on their website.
@@paulmollise1856 Oh sorry. Not many people in this part of the US have floor drains in garage. Our current house doesn't have drains in garage, and I have actually never lived in a house with garage drains. The only time I have seen that is when we rented a house in a ski town in Colorado. But here in Missouri (and most of the southern US) we don't have drains in our garage floors. We don't really get snow here and when we do it's just a couple inches and it melts the next day. So we are never entering our garage with caked on ice and snow that will melt and cause a problem for us.
Have you added up the cost difference between the litedeck and conventional deck? I'm still undecided if I want to do a full concrete first floor or not.
We just did the Litedeck for the garage and then used traditional decking for the kitchen and living room because LiteDeck is definitely more expensive. Even when decking was $60 a sheet, which of course is when we had to buy it, (ouch) it was cheaper for us to do that than to use the litedeck. It's a tough choice though because when we transition from the garage floor into the kitchen living area we definitely miss the concrete floor. The Litedeck just feels so solid and nice.
With the way that is poured after the walls are half done, don't you have to be concerned about a cold joint between the lower and upper halves of the wall that's now spanning the entire way around?
No, because the rebar extends from the lower half to the upper half and connects the pours. It would really be impossible to pour the footer, 9 foot wall, and additional 10 foot wall (second story) at one time. The cold joint Is within the Styrofoam block which also has rebar, so we don't have to worry about any movement. It is no different that any other vertical pour like a high rise. As long as you have rebar connecting each pour, you are good to go.
Luckily we don't worry about that in this part of the US. There are some places in the Northern parts of the US that do have drains in the floor because they have more snow. Where we are located in Southwest missouri, we're not required to have drains in the floor of the garage, and most people don't.
24x22. I believe LiteDeck can span up to 35 feet without beams or columns. We are now planning on doing our roof because lumber prices are so high! We will definitely make videos of that process as well. Thank you for watching!
@@LakeLotBuild We are breaking ground shortly and I am planning on suspending the garage floor to put a pistol range underneath, I was looking at the sloped roofs as well just you replied due to lumber prices. Thank you for the quick reply. I am having troubles finding the cost and spans online for the liteDeck.
@@ripperwrestling6587 Our contractor for the ICF job sources the LiteDeck. It might be more difficult to procure because it comes from Canada. Never hurts to just reach out to the company directly. I know you can pour a regular gabled roof or a flat roof or a sloped roof with that LiteDeck product. It's pretty awesome.
I have seen similar construction used in industrial applications and always thought it would be very suitable for residential. Would like to look into this for a deck vs wood.
Well you can't pour two stories at one time or you will blow out the blocks. The rebar is extended though from the first pour and linked into the next pour. Usually half the block of the remaining top block is poured so that the cold joint is in the middle of the block.
Thanks for sharing John. Do you have the video showing the monolithic concrete pour of the garage floor? The Last we saw was the concrete pushing out the corners and being retained by the protective wrap around the footer. I would like to see how you handled the joining of the concrete pour at the very extremity of the floor before the back fill was installed. Also, how the second concrete poured (6 days later) created a “monolithic” pour around the windows on the top floor. Thanks
I have seen metal bracing at other places. We aren't too upset though because the wood gets reused 4-5 times as bracing for walls and floors before it's final use as stud walls inside the house. Nothing is tossed out. It all gets used as structural lumber eventually and stays with the house.
I am sort of confused. Styrofoam mixed with concrete? How is this better than pure poured concrete slab? This is something I am looking into because I want a CBS basement with a concrete slab ceiling.
Thank you for watching! The concrete is not mixed with styrofoam. The styrofoam and steel structure is laid down and then concrete poured on top much like a bridge girder construction.
Love the video and process, it was very informative. Is there any concern for the rebar coming up from the wall and being bent over into the slab, that it is not completely encased in concrete? It appeared that the inside corners were embedded into the LiteDeck and not utilizing its full potential for structural strength.
Thank you for watching! Yes. It is best to bend them properly with a rebar bender and have the concrete totally encasing them. We learned this after the fact.
@@LakeLotBuild I think some people are confused. You said a 2x2 mesh but I think you meant 2 foot x 2 foot grid. A 2x2 mesh is 2"x2" none deformed welded wire mesh. Most people put in a 6x6 mesh but you can also get a 2x2 mesh.
At one time, building codes required at least four inches to separate the garage and house floor, but that is no longer the case. The garage floor is sloped to the front, however, to address water infiltration, etc.
Thanks for the detailed video. Just what I needed to see in decided rather I want to go this route on my build. I am curious though... Why is there no visible water proofing or backfill protection? Are you using 6" or 8" blocks for the basement?
Thank you for watching! Our basement is ICF styrofoam block with 8 inches of concrete and rebar between. We used Xypex waterproofing concrete additive in the concrete batching so no need for exterior or interior waterproofing membrane.
We are getting ready to build an ICF home in the Idaho mountains. You stated that the litedeck for your garage is 24’ deep. If you stack a 3rd layer of foam to make the channels deeper, does that enable for a deeper garage?
@@LakeLotBuild after getting caught up on the videos I seen that there was no need for a bearing wall. I called my local ICF Dealer and Engineer to get information on how deep I could go on my garage. He stated that 24’ was the max I could go, but I swear I heard either you or your contractor say you could span further using cables and extra layers of the capping foam to build height (I forgot what it’s called). Which product did you use and is your contractor open to phone calls? I’m building in a remote mountains area in Idaho at 6200ft of elevation.
I DIYed a stem wall using Fox Blocks and they were very user friendly; LiteDeck is a neat product to learn about. I’m jealous of the crew that you have working on the project and enjoy watching your progress. I want to let you know that occasionally your music is a bit loud compared to the rest of the audio in your videos. I look forward to your next video!
@@LakeLotBuild thank you. I know in places where ICF is rare the county is hesitant to sign off on plans and here they concrete second floors to be impossible and require engineered plans.
We did look into precast slabs. With the LiteDeck we get the benefit of insulation and a high R factor. We also get the benefit of a monologue pour that ties the floor into the walls. Building on site also allowed us to not have to worry about transporting or having a crane move precast slabs.
No parapet wall although we thought about it. The lower edge of the wall allows the LiteDeck to sit on top. When the concrete is poured it ties the LiteDeck to the wall. We will be doing our roof with LiteDeck next! We will have several videos that describe the process. Our last two videos may help describe the process.
Interesting; Should not those 90 degree bends be tighter so that there are no exposed metal and a stronger corner. Do those horizonal 3/4 rebars need to be "stressed" for strength? I've seen on "How it's made" how they pre-load their reinforcements. What is the needed wall thickness for this size floor? What tensile concrete is used? Since this is to the floor of a garage have you allocated for a floor drain? If not can it be done? Is this being built in the US or Canada? That should keep you busy for a while. One final question, Is this available in the US? Thank You.
There is no exposed metal rebar after pour. Our contactor made sure all were secured to chairs prior to the pour. We have 8inches of concrete in our ICF block walls under this garage floor. We are in Missouri in the US. Thank you for watching!
This is not a pre tensioned or post tensioned system, It's a conventional rebar design. Once the bracing underneath is let loose, the bottom of the T beam will go into tension and the top of the slab will go into compression. It's very important to have the correct rebar design and rebar placement in this design. Looks like the crew did a good job.
@@eriksmith5950 The bending on the top bar was sloppy. The span can be carried 100% by the positive (bottom) bars in the concrete joist system. So even if the top bar fails 100%, you don't get a collapse. The top bars control cracking at the edges, so you may get more cracking than expected. The top bars hold the deck to the walls for earthquakes. The bar is still protected from the air and will still have some function left but it not ideal. If I was reviewing/inspecting, I would have made them add hooked bars around the perimeter and cut away the Styrofoam underneath the bent bars. I would have also made them extend the temperature mat further into the walls.
Very interesting. What was the PSI of the concrete? Could not really make it out but Romex can only be run in conduit for short lengths (account heat and induction) Looking forward to more videos!
Just to be a silly safety inspector, I am very surprised that your safety (that word again) laws allow you to work at height without any safety (!) barriers over 6’ above the ground !
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We are so glad you all are liking this video and our build! Just to let everyone know, the house, including this garage floor, has been designed by a structural engineer. Concrete floors/decks over living spaces is very common around the world. We are doing LiteDeck for our roof, so stay tuned! (And subscribe) 😁
@ lake to build
Do I want to watch you? Or the work in progress? I'm confused. So less of you on camera and more of the work! If that make sens. Thanks.
I'm very interested in ICF construction. Here in the middle east the temps can reach over 50°C (especially around this time of the year) we already use reinforced concrete and CMU's but absolutely no thermal insulation whatsoever.
My next house will be icf. I will also help my daughter build her first house before I do mine. Call it a practice run with icf. This is the only way to build in the southeast USA in my humble opinion. No hurricane nor tornadoes gonna evict me from my house.
I think you could have glued them together with a pl200 glue and you wouldn't have any leaks on the floor below
I've seen ICF walls built, but this is the first floor. Looks great! I find the whole process fascinating. Energy efficient and should be structurally very strong as well compared to traditional stick construction.
Thank you, Bob! Keep watching as we are planning on putting on an ICF roof as well!
Little Tip, use a 3 #prong Rebar Bender "Hickey" with a 3/4" pipe, and you will get a perfect Right Angel on your 1/2" Rebar from perimeter wall, on to deck and not damage the LiteDeck forms. Stronger walls to deck tie in.......... Thx 416 L.A. So. Cal
Thank you! Good tips.
Did you put any slope on the garage slab? (towards the garage door)
When I built my garage I asked the concrete guys to put a slope of 1/8 inch per foot, and for the most part it was good, but there are a couple of low spots that "puddle" if the car goes into the garage wet and drains off in the garage.
Yes. We did a slope from the back out to the front. We may need to put in a drain on the driveway since it slopes from the street. We will know more after our final backfill and grating.
probably a bit late on this but, I would consult an electrician about those conduits. I know that once you start shoving more than 3 wires through a hole you typically have to start derating the wire.
Three current carrying conductors, that is hots and neutrals, grounds do not carry current except for a short circuit so it is for a very short period of time so the wires will not get that hot before the breaker trips that's why they are not counted.
I saw the product at woc several years ago. Good idea if its cost effective. Other options are a pan system which is still used for parking garages. Basically the same thing except done with square pans on a flat deck. What we see mostly is hollow core planks. A little expensive but time saving is huge. 2 days and your garage floor is poured. 7 days after pour you can park on it. I believe up to a 40 foot clear span. Interesting and informative.
Yes, we are doing pan style for our concrete deck off the main living.
@@LakeLotBuild I've never personally done the pans but I would think it to be the cheapest even after paying for an engineer. I have set alot of hollow core. It is kind of expensive and takes a crane but a great finished product. I wish you the best of luck with your build.
I would put more rebar in it for overload support
You must be near Ft Leonard Wood, Missouri. (A-10s)
Awesome! We built one very similar for a customer about 15 years ago. Only difference was the engineer specced post tension cables in the garage floor to support load. I think we were 29 feet outside dimension if I remember correctly.
And we did conventional wood trusses for the roof. Very interested in seeing the poured roof. 👍🏼
@4:33 everyone's reaction to seeing an A10 Warthog... Unless you're the enemy lol
This type of house should be wildly use in hurricanes and tornadoes states.
I completely agree!
Me too...
IMHO adjustable scaffolding as the floor supports would be safer, more accurate and be easier to install then remove after the concrete is cured. Not a fan of the non-adjustable "t" 2x4 braces.
Very interesting. From my perspective it was kind of difficult to watch due to your appearances on the view and switching on the takes. It's better to focus on the job (as it was at the beginning of pouring the concrete). Unless this was live with interaction. Anyway, great and adventurous build. Respectfully from a guy that knows nothing of content creation.
Thank you for watching! We have taken comments like yours to heart. You will see in our more recent videos that we try to show more of the building process and the products used. As this is TH-cam, we also try to have an entertainment angle as well, but we know people want to see the build the most.
At 7:06 I would have opened up the slot close to the wall, so that around the two rebar on the wall in each slot, there would be more concrete to keep the tensioned ends more secure on the wall capture, just in case the thin beam effect at the end cracks, and the rebar slips. I would even think that the light stuff would not go as far as the wall surface edge below. I am not so happy with the capture of the roof slab on top of the wall,
He needs to be careful about the crown effect mentioned at 10:36 as there is no vertical ties to the rebar and when the crown settles the arc will be tensioned downwards putting the vertical web of the concrete narrow beam in tension. The integral structure would mean that the wall will buckle if the crown drops. That construction is going to drum the integrated walls and the roofs.
The scene at 14: 27 makes my heart ache as the rebar emerging from the wall curving on to the horizontal are in the wrong position and that corner will not like any vibrations, putting the higher part of the concrete corner in tension hence cracking
This is very cool! I'd never heard of LiteDeck before and I was wondering how concrete floors were put on top of ICF. This explains it for me. I do wonder if there is a way to tape the forms from the underside to block any dripping, but that would take more time & $.
I wasn't aware that concrete could dry/cure too fast.
How is the lite deck garage floor holding up after 3 years of use? Would love to have you give a follow up on any issues
That is a great idea for a video! It is doing great. In fact, we are just now getting around to finishing the drywall and painting the garage. We've been able to park in the garage several times and there's no signs of stress, strain or any problems. People inside the house and under the garage can't hear cars pulling in. We are very happy with it.
I'm Happy to hear. We are using that system for the entire house about 3500sqft. Of insuldeck. There are very few videos and like seeing how others tackle it. Thank You
Looks good, but rebar should not be touching the foam. It looses strength if not covered by concrete.
You are right! They could have easily cut the foam away to properly embed the rebar.
Got me wondering about another 2nd story underneath! That bottom suspension would require at least two or three courses since a 3rd surface house appears feasible.
@4:33 BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT!!!!!!!!!!!
A-10 Warthogs, sounds like an you’re aviation enthusiast. 😉👍
Glad this video popped up for me to watch. Thanks for sharing.
Informative though too much video of yourself to really focus on what's being done.
❓💥✔⚠️Question: Is the cold-pour joint in the wall going to be a weak spot down the road??⚠️✔💥❓
They put the joint in a middle of a block and tie in the rebar on both pours, so it should not be a problem, at least that is what the ICF contractor tells us. It is the way he has done it on all his homes.
Btw. How much weight this roof design can handle?. Compared to the regular concrete roof slaps?
I'm not sure the specifics. The engineers designed it to hold two cars and garage full of cabinets and tools. LiteDeck might have actual loads and drawings on their website.
@@LakeLotBuild 2 cars and some tools is more than enough specifications for me
Where does all the water drain to off the cars on that floor?? No drains??
It slopes to the front of the garage and then we will have a drain that runs across the driveway .
@@LakeLotBuild the drains outside?? What do you do in the winter when door is closed ??
@@paulmollise1856 Oh sorry. Not many people in this part of the US have floor drains in garage. Our current house doesn't have drains in garage, and I have actually never lived in a house with garage drains. The only time I have seen that is when we rented a house in a ski town in Colorado. But here in Missouri (and most of the southern US) we don't have drains in our garage floors. We don't really get snow here and when we do it's just a couple inches and it melts the next day. So we are never entering our garage with caked on ice and snow that will melt and cause a problem for us.
Have you added up the cost difference between the litedeck and conventional deck? I'm still undecided if I want to do a full concrete first floor or not.
We just did the Litedeck for the garage and then used traditional decking for the kitchen and living room because LiteDeck is definitely more expensive. Even when decking was $60 a sheet, which of course is when we had to buy it, (ouch) it was cheaper for us to do that than to use the litedeck. It's a tough choice though because when we transition from the garage floor into the kitchen living area we definitely miss the concrete floor. The Litedeck just feels so solid and nice.
With the way that is poured after the walls are half done, don't you have to be concerned about a cold joint between the lower and upper halves of the wall that's now spanning the entire way around?
No, because the rebar extends from the lower half to the upper half and connects the pours. It would really be impossible to pour the footer, 9 foot wall, and additional 10 foot wall (second story) at one time. The cold joint Is within the Styrofoam block which also has rebar, so we don't have to worry about any movement. It is no different that any other vertical pour like a high rise. As long as you have rebar connecting each pour, you are good to go.
Lake Lot Build yes, engineers spec cold joints all the time. The reinforcing bar ties it together.
All that rebar sticking up without caps on. Not good guys
Can these roof slap/decks really handle a 10+ tons load on top? without columns too?
I don't know about 10 tons, but LiteDeck has been doing garage floor spans and roofs for quite a while now.
What about drainage for the floor? Here in western Canada we often park with several liters worth of snow on our vehicles.
Luckily we don't worry about that in this part of the US. There are some places in the Northern parts of the US that do have drains in the floor because they have more snow. Where we are located in Southwest missouri, we're not required to have drains in the floor of the garage, and most people don't.
Can you pour LiteDeck and ICF all in the same day and get true monolithic? Or would it blow out the ICF walls?
No. The concrete would blow out or too much bracing would be required.
What is the span of your garage? Was thinking of doing the exact same thing.
24x22. I believe LiteDeck can span up to 35 feet without beams or columns. We are now planning on doing our roof because lumber prices are so high! We will definitely make videos of that process as well. Thank you for watching!
@@LakeLotBuild We are breaking ground shortly and I am planning on suspending the garage floor to put a pistol range underneath, I was looking at the sloped roofs as well just you replied due to lumber prices. Thank you for the quick reply. I am having troubles finding the cost and spans online for the liteDeck.
@@ripperwrestling6587 Our contractor for the ICF job sources the LiteDeck. It might be more difficult to procure because it comes from Canada. Never hurts to just reach out to the company directly. I know you can pour a regular gabled roof or a flat roof or a sloped roof with that LiteDeck product. It's pretty awesome.
I have seen similar construction used in industrial applications and always thought it would be very suitable for residential. Would like to look into this for a deck vs wood.
Lake Lot Build I believe benchmark foam in SD or Iowa can make it as well. At least they used to.
Kind of useless to talk over the SawZall noise. Directional microphones would help.
I missed something during airplanes. When they pour, what holds the concrete from seeping through the ceiling?
The ICF forms go all the way across and hold the concrete like a pan.
What’d you do for the headers over the garage doors? Was there steel in there or just a foot of concrete
The header was made with concrete and steel. One of our videos shows the process. I think it is the next couple after this one.
Just wondering, seems like a lot of labor, forming, Is this cheaper than spancrete ?
I'm not sure. It might be but ours is insulated.
so you're going to have a horizontal cold joint the whole perimiter of that garage?? I thought cold jointa were a nono?
Well you can't pour two stories at one time or you will blow out the blocks. The rebar is extended though from the first pour and linked into the next pour. Usually half the block of the remaining top block is poured so that the cold joint is in the middle of the block.
How come you didn’t use regular deck?
Thanks for sharing John. Do you have the video showing the monolithic concrete pour of the garage floor? The Last we saw was the concrete pushing out the corners and being retained by the protective wrap around the footer. I would like to see how you handled the joining of the concrete pour at the very extremity of the floor before the back fill was installed. Also, how the second concrete poured (6 days later) created a “monolithic” pour around the windows on the top floor. Thanks
A-10 war Hogs badass mother effers😊
That's a lot of lumber at 9:55, they need to come up with some temporary and reusable bracing...
I have seen metal bracing at other places. We aren't too upset though because the wood gets reused 4-5 times as bracing for walls and floors before it's final use as stud walls inside the house. Nothing is tossed out. It all gets used as structural lumber eventually and stays with the house.
I built an ICF house 15 years ago and I wish this product would have been available then. Very cool.
It was. I used Lite Deck in 2007 on an elevated slab in a residential application. It had been around before that.
Hope you can share size of those rebar chairs and brand?! Thanks in advance
They were provided by the ICF contractor, so I'm not sure.
Thanks for making these videos. We’re planning our ICF build and this info is very helpful.
Thank you for watching! We have over 60 videos now, so I hope you find all the info you need!
When we do an ICF for floors and roofs, we only remove the insulation of the wall ICF at the beam pockets. Why did you remove the whole inner panel?
Rebar is not right. All rebar should be connected to the wall. Half of the rebars are short of the wall which will lead to premature failure
ICF walls with precast decking seem like a far easier solution.
Precast concrete plank is not insulated, and you cannot recess plumbing and electrical.
Finally somebody doing it right.
Just make sure you pour the top floor ceiling with hbk concrete to make it a truly strong, hurricane proof house.
Dam I would have to pull the boards out holding the roof, from outside the garage.
I am sort of confused. Styrofoam mixed with concrete? How is this better than pure poured concrete slab? This is something I am looking into because I want a CBS basement with a concrete slab ceiling.
Thank you for watching! The concrete is not mixed with styrofoam. The styrofoam and steel structure is laid down and then concrete poured on top much like a bridge girder construction.
Love the video and process, it was very informative. Is there any concern for the rebar coming up from the wall and being bent over into the slab, that it is not completely encased in concrete? It appeared that the inside corners were embedded into the LiteDeck and not utilizing its full potential for structural strength.
Thank you for watching! Yes. It is best to bend them properly with a rebar bender and have the concrete totally encasing them. We learned this after the fact.
Where was that 2x2 mesh?!
It's there! Promise. You can see the guys walking between it and during the pour.
@@LakeLotBuild I think some people are confused. You said a 2x2 mesh but I think you meant 2 foot x 2 foot grid. A 2x2 mesh is 2"x2" none deformed welded wire mesh. Most people put in a 6x6 mesh but you can also get a 2x2 mesh.
@@yodaiam1000 you are right! It is 2x2 grid!
What sort of concrete admixture was used?Was UHPC or any additive used such as fibers?
On the exhaust fan duct I hope you put enough picture on it so that the water will run out of it.
how many hundreds does each piece of icf cost?
Is your garage floor going to be the same level as the living space? I didn't think that was allowed.
At one time, building codes required at least four inches to separate the garage and house floor, but that is no longer the case. The garage floor is sloped to the front, however, to address water infiltration, etc.
Very nice! Sincere thanks for the time and effort you took to create this video.
Amazing work
What did this cost?! I've been looking for a solution like this! 😊
It is hard to say because it was part of overall bid, but around $15,000.
Thanks for the detailed video. Just what I needed to see in decided rather I want to go this route on my build. I am curious though... Why is there no visible water proofing or backfill protection? Are you using 6" or 8" blocks for the basement?
Thank you for watching! Our basement is ICF styrofoam block with 8 inches of concrete and rebar between. We used Xypex waterproofing concrete additive in the concrete batching so no need for exterior or interior waterproofing membrane.
@@LakeLotBuild awesome! Learned something new today. Thank you!
8" is needed due to the weight of the concrete floor system. Otherwise 6" is usually the better choice.
We are getting ready to build an ICF home in the Idaho mountains. You stated that the litedeck for your garage is 24’ deep. If you stack a 3rd layer of foam to make the channels deeper, does that enable for a deeper garage?
If I understand your question correctly, then yes. You add additional forms for additional strength. It would also make the floor deeper.
@@LakeLotBuild after getting caught up on the videos I seen that there was no need for a bearing wall. I called my local ICF Dealer and Engineer to get information on how deep I could go on my garage. He stated that 24’ was the max I could go, but I swear I heard either you or your contractor say you could span further using cables and extra layers of the capping foam to build height (I forgot what it’s called). Which product did you use and is your contractor open to phone calls? I’m building in a remote mountains area in Idaho at 6200ft of elevation.
I DIYed a stem wall using Fox Blocks and they were very user friendly; LiteDeck is a neat product to learn about. I’m jealous of the crew that you have working on the project and enjoy watching your progress. I want to let you know that occasionally your music is a bit loud compared to the rest of the audio in your videos. I look forward to your next video!
Thank you for watching! I am going to work on the music. Thank you for mentioning that.
how much wegtht will this floor carry
When using that kind flooring system did you have to consult and engineer or could you just proceed abiding by the manufacturers specs?
The engineers at LiteDeck will help you spec the requirements for the load, SQ ft, etc.
@@LakeLotBuild thank you. I know in places where ICF is rare the county is hesitant to sign off on plans and here they concrete second floors to be impossible and require engineered plans.
Do you cut the concrete slab after it's poured like a typical garage floor?
No, we did not have to cut it.
Why would you not just put floor trusses. Has to be more cost Affective
Structural engineers spec'ed the open web trusses for us.
Would you want to have an eps sleeve around your pvc piping?
I would love to do that, build a room under the garage.
why did you choose litedeck compared to precast slabs? what advantages you saw
We did look into precast slabs. With the LiteDeck we get the benefit of insulation and a high R factor. We also get the benefit of a monologue pour that ties the floor into the walls. Building on site also allowed us to not have to worry about transporting or having a crane move precast slabs.
@@LakeLotBuild Does it have a parapet on top deck is that the reason you extended the wall by a block or two from the outside?
No parapet wall although we thought about it. The lower edge of the wall allows the LiteDeck to sit on top. When the concrete is poured it ties the LiteDeck to the wall. We will be doing our roof with LiteDeck next! We will have several videos that describe the process. Our last two videos may help describe the process.
Is that in Branson
Close by, yes.
invest in a rebar bender
Amazing construction cement work
Thank you!
I love the A-10
Cowboys are us !
Should build it strong. First 4 inch downpour and you will be riding down the slope.
Warthogs AND a LiteDeck? Heck yeah!!
Love it! 😂
Interesting; Should not those 90 degree bends be tighter so that there are no exposed metal and a stronger corner. Do those horizonal 3/4 rebars need to be "stressed" for strength? I've seen on "How it's made" how they pre-load their reinforcements. What is the needed wall thickness for this size floor? What tensile concrete is used? Since this is to the floor of a garage have you allocated for a floor drain? If not can it be done? Is this being built in the US or Canada? That should keep you busy for a while. One final question, Is this available in the US? Thank You.
There is no exposed metal rebar after pour. Our contactor made sure all were secured to chairs prior to the pour. We have 8inches of concrete in our ICF block walls under this garage floor. We are in Missouri in the US. Thank you for watching!
This is not a pre tensioned or post tensioned system, It's a conventional rebar design. Once the bracing underneath is let loose, the bottom of the T beam will go into tension and the top of the slab will go into compression. It's very important to have the correct rebar design and rebar placement in this design. Looks like the crew did a good job.
@@eriksmith5950 The bending on the top bar was sloppy. The span can be carried 100% by the positive (bottom) bars in the concrete joist system. So even if the top bar fails 100%, you don't get a collapse. The top bars control cracking at the edges, so you may get more cracking than expected. The top bars hold the deck to the walls for earthquakes. The bar is still protected from the air and will still have some function left but it not ideal. If I was reviewing/inspecting, I would have made them add hooked bars around the perimeter and cut away the Styrofoam underneath the bent bars. I would have also made them extend the temperature mat further into the walls.
Why do your concrete trucks have wheels up the top of the filler?
I will ask them on the next pour.
The wheels fold down and make another axle to handle a full load. If the truck is not fully loaded, the swing axle is not needed...
Danny Wilsher and when they get on site they lift them up out of the way.
Did you look at quad lock icf?
We did not. Our ICF subcontractor did not suggest it.
@@LakeLotBuild thanks, it’s the one I want to use in my house construction
Can you put Pex tubing for Heat on the litedeck?
Hmmm, good question. I'm not sure.
yes
th-cam.com/video/DaQK4G7Mj8Q/w-d-xo.html
Yes. You want to use one built for that purpose. I believe it needs an oxygen barrier.
Very interesting. What was the PSI of the concrete? Could not really make it out but Romex can only be run in conduit for short lengths (account heat and induction) Looking forward to more videos!
Thank you! We only have the sleeve for the Romex for a 12 inch run. We just had to sleeve out the opening for the concrete wall.
Generally the engineer will spec the mix design.
Just to be a silly safety inspector, I am very surprised that your safety (that word again) laws allow you to work at height without any safety (!) barriers over 6’ above the ground !