I've got some 17x8 which I'm fitting some 235/40 AD08r so should grip well, I wish I had gone for the 17x9 but the 17x8 came up cheap, so I couldn't refuse it.
For the gearbox, use the NC2, swap out the plastic bushes for metal ones and get the gears shot peened. Also, don’t get a mega clutch. This will be fine for track driving, it’s the guys that dump the clutch in first at traffic lights that smash boxes
I did think about getting one of Walters Motorsport built gearboxes.. but the BMW setup has infact worked out cheaper to do, plus I know the gearboxes will handle big power, more so than the NC gearboxes. The twin disc is also a full faced clutch, the is rated for around 1000nm torque while also having a OEM pedal feel. :)
@@Lewis-gf6on I don't think he's fitted it yet. I'm also interested to see how it's done. Having seen this kit fitted to an NB I'd be concerned how easy it is and what the final cost turn out to be.
@@Lawcore You guys in the US are lucky, here in Australia an NC2 box is $2k plus another $2k to have it built properly! BUT, still works out cheaper than the KMiata kit and BMW box once shipping is taken into account. Keep up the good work
Got to say I’ve been following you for some time now and loved your Mk1 between you and Greg my TH-cam watch list is pretty full 😁 I’ve owned 2 mk1’s and a mk2 over the years and always wanted to turbo them but never did. The resource back then wasn’t around and TH-cam wasn’t really up and running to learn from. I’d love another to tinker and learn and quite like the idea of an NC as the prices have plummeted recently. Now I’ve just watched your videos of your black NC and wow!!! What a weapon... I know your building your new one now and I hope to learn some tips but on standard internals what do you think is a safe power to aim at? And 1.8 or 2.0? 1.8 seem to be cheaper. Thanks for any help.
Steve Bosworth thanks for the kind words man! 😍😍😍 Personally I’d go 2.0 as it has VVT which really helps low down. You can safety get 300hp out of a 2.0. I ran 304whp so around 360hp without any problems... the key is making sure the torque doesn’t kick in hard low down as this is what snaps the rods, hence I run a bigger turbo as the torque kicks up much higher up the rpm compared to a small unit. But to be fair 300+ hp in a NC is plenty for road use. :)
@@Lawcore I have the 2.5ltr and i am planing to put a 2860rs on it.the kick will be from 2.000rpm.i think that will not be problem for the 2.5's rods, right?
I just acquired a 13 Club Miata w/ Fab9 6758 setup. Same color and alot of the same components. I would however love to model my shifter after what you are running there. Looks amazing. Any more details on shifter?
The trans your using is 350 or 370z? Does it fit in same dimensions as stock or did you have to modify tunnel? I assume custom drive shaft? Nice build, just got an NC 2 years ago and have been tossing the idea of turbo after Miatas at the gap this past year. Gives me something to strive for.
Any chance you could tell us what battery you got there? and what gauge you used to go from the front of the car to the boot and if you used any inline-fuse holders for the positive? (if so what amp rating your using etc) Also I really wanna run a Haltech ECU in my NC. I'm just wondering if you have or could make a video explaining the ECU wiring etc? Because I'm wondering if your still using the Haltech as a piggy-back or full-standalone as I see the OEM ECU is mounted next to the fusebox still. So kinda lost what's going on there haha. Love the build really intrigued about the full wiring spec.
It’s a PC950 odyssey battery, I’m using a 240amp wire from the boot to the OEM power wire. No inline fuse, the cable runs though the cabin where the kick plates are. I redid the whole wiring loam in the end, so the ecu block you saw was just the plug off the OEM ecu that had been removed, but since then I’ve just wired it direct from the ecu as it made total sense. Both options are full standalone with the OEM ecu gone. Some people just remove plug off ecu board and then wire haltech to that, so you retain the OEM loam and can easily go back to OEM ecu if you wanted. I’ll see if I can cover this in a future video. :)
Hey mate one quick question for the 2.5 motor. Is it affecting the cars weight distribution and balance and what are other big cons of the swap? Thank you in advance
There aren't really any con's as such, your just gaining extra displacement. The engines do vibrate a little bit more than the 2.0 but that's due to the stroke plus you're removing the balance shaft off them. (Needed to fit MX5 sump)
Can you do a little in depth walk around of the NA ? not slot of high hp 1.6 that talk about what's done with it . Yes yes yes before anyone comments I know of the turtle and Miata turbskie
Well I'd love to but I broke the car for parts. You may be in luck though, as my friend bought the engine & turbo setup, which was put in a red NA. There will be a video of both cars in the future as he took alot of parts from the build. :)
Great to see your update, love your build and telling us what recipe you are cooking up. Keep the updates flowing :)
EXCELLENT BUILD QUALITY, very impressive, very tidy. Love it. All the best, Rob (2009 NCFL 2.0l Sport in True Red)
Awesome build. Looking forward to seeing this progress 👍
Thanks bro. :D
Love the short throw 👍🏻👍🏻 hope to see it running soon 💐
Looks insane, I thought the NA was mad and now this! Hope everything goes smoothly
Thanks man. I hope it lives up to the NA build and much more. :)
Also 17x9 RPF1’s fit with a roll and 235x40 NT01’s will grip like a good un
I've got some 17x8 which I'm fitting some 235/40 AD08r so should grip well, I wish I had gone for the 17x9 but the 17x8 came up cheap, so I couldn't refuse it.
What an inspiring and well thought out build.
For the gearbox, use the NC2, swap out the plastic bushes for metal ones and get the gears shot peened. Also, don’t get a mega clutch. This will be fine for track driving, it’s the guys that dump the clutch in first at traffic lights that smash boxes
I did think about getting one of Walters Motorsport built gearboxes.. but the BMW setup has infact worked out cheaper to do, plus I know the gearboxes will handle big power, more so than the NC gearboxes. The twin disc is also a full faced clutch, the is rated for around 1000nm torque while also having a OEM pedal feel. :)
@@Lawcore How did you mount the gearbox, what adapter plate did you use ? What did you do about the power plant frame ? Thanks
@@Lewis-gf6on I don't think he's fitted it yet. I'm also interested to see how it's done. Having seen this kit fitted to an NB I'd be concerned how easy it is and what the final cost turn out to be.
@@Lawcore You guys in the US are lucky, here in Australia an NC2 box is $2k plus another $2k to have it built properly! BUT, still works out cheaper than the KMiata kit and BMW box once shipping is taken into account. Keep up the good work
@@D13-r9w I'm in the UK dude, so we get stitched up also when it comes to shipping and import duties etc. can get mega $$$$ sometimes.
Got to say I’ve been following you for some time now and loved your Mk1 between you and Greg my TH-cam watch list is pretty full 😁
I’ve owned 2 mk1’s and a mk2 over the years and always wanted to turbo them but never did.
The resource back then wasn’t around and TH-cam wasn’t really up and running to learn from.
I’d love another to tinker and learn and quite like the idea of an NC as the prices have plummeted recently. Now I’ve just watched your videos of your black NC and wow!!! What a weapon...
I know your building your new one now and I hope to learn some tips but on standard internals what do you think is a safe power to aim at? And 1.8 or 2.0? 1.8 seem to be cheaper. Thanks for any help.
Steve Bosworth thanks for the kind words man! 😍😍😍
Personally I’d go 2.0 as it has VVT which really helps low down. You can safety get 300hp out of a 2.0. I ran 304whp so around 360hp without any problems... the key is making sure the torque doesn’t kick in hard low down as this is what snaps the rods, hence I run a bigger turbo as the torque kicks up much higher up the rpm compared to a small unit.
But to be fair 300+ hp in a NC is plenty for road use. :)
@@Lawcore I have the 2.5ltr and i am planing to put a 2860rs on it.the kick will be from 2.000rpm.i think that will not be problem for the 2.5's rods, right?
I just acquired a 13 Club Miata w/ Fab9 6758 setup. Same color and alot of the same components. I would however love to model my shifter after what you are running there. Looks amazing. Any more details on shifter?
The money in that car 😂😂
Wow, nice job man such a sick build, is this for track? I just got a NC and falled in love with it. What engine code type and from what car ?
The trans your using is 350 or 370z? Does it fit in same dimensions as stock or did you have to modify tunnel? I assume custom drive shaft? Nice build, just got an NC 2 years ago and have been tossing the idea of turbo after Miatas at the gap this past year. Gives me something to strive for.
Nice job with ABS , hope your K series will workout well.
Thanks dude!
Any chance you could tell us what battery you got there? and what gauge you used to go from the front of the car to the boot and if you used any inline-fuse holders for the positive? (if so what amp rating your using etc) Also I really wanna run a Haltech ECU in my NC. I'm just wondering if you have or could make a video explaining the ECU wiring etc? Because I'm wondering if your still using the Haltech as a piggy-back or full-standalone as I see the OEM ECU is mounted next to the fusebox still. So kinda lost what's going on there haha. Love the build really intrigued about the full wiring spec.
It’s a PC950 odyssey battery, I’m using a 240amp wire from the boot to the OEM power wire. No inline fuse, the cable runs though the cabin where the kick plates are.
I redid the whole wiring loam in the end, so the ecu block you saw was just the plug off the OEM ecu that had been removed, but since then I’ve just wired it direct from the ecu as it made total sense. Both options are full standalone with the OEM ecu gone.
Some people just remove plug off ecu board and then wire haltech to that, so you retain the OEM loam and can easily go back to OEM ecu if you wanted. I’ll see if I can cover this in a future video. :)
Amazing job, well done. What type of clear coat is it for rear lights?
Thanks man, It's a Lamin-X you can get it here
www.lamin-x.com/mazda-mx-5-06-08-tail-light-covers.html
@@Lawcore what is the color chosen? Red or charcoal?
Vincent Bai red is what I used. :)
Do you have a video of the intake manifold install?? How did you install and block the hole that has threads on stock manifold ??
Wow, that’s a proper build! Except the red reverse light, just my opinion.
Running time attack?
Hey mate one quick question for the 2.5 motor. Is it affecting the cars weight distribution and balance and what are other big cons of the swap? Thank you in advance
There aren't really any con's as such, your just gaining extra displacement. The engines do vibrate a little bit more than the 2.0 but that's due to the stroke plus you're removing the balance shaft off them. (Needed to fit MX5 sump)
Are you using a custom adapter plate for the ZF transmission to mate with the 2.5?
Can you do a little in depth walk around of the NA ? not slot of high hp 1.6 that talk about what's done with it . Yes yes yes before anyone comments I know of the turtle and Miata turbskie
Well I'd love to but I broke the car for parts.
You may be in luck though, as my friend bought the engine & turbo setup, which was put in a red NA. There will be a video of both cars in the future as he took alot of parts from the build. :)
Aren't NC's supposed to have stronger gearboxes as compared to the others? Great build, Subbed.
Such a sick build! 👌👍
Where did you learn how to do all this
buggolein it’s all self taught, plus the internet is a world of information. 😎
Are you a Bond villian?😅
Hey man do u have a ig i want to ask some questions about you NA miata boosted
Armando Romero hey man. It’s @corelaw
awesome man... another channel cum back tu laive