After watching multiple videos, taking my bike to three local bike shops, i was at that point where i wanted to replace my frame because of that annoying creak. but before that, i replaced my BB and pedal (by the way, the creaking sound only appeared when going uphill and when speeding up, when the cranks are stressed). the frame is the oldest part of my bike and i thought this was the culprit. checked the whole frame, no cracks...i was about to give up (again), and thought, maybe i should grease the skewer, as this video advised...greased it lightly, placed it back on, immediately went uphill, i almost cried lol. no more creak. Thanks a lot GCN Tech. Bike frame on shopping cart, removed!
@@McRemmyBaby Bike shops are a rip off I swear, this stuff isn't too complicated or expensive to do yourself. Only thing I won't touch is wheels, I'd lose my mind trying to true them.
I guess it's because they don't actually check the bike while riding it, but on the bike stand. I always think they should do a test ride themselves before handing the bike back to me :(
Jon, you must be reading our minds because today I literally was going to pose a question for the GCN Tech Clinic about my creaking seat post. Really good and informative video!
Thank you so much. I ride hills every day. 1500 vertical feet in 15 miles is my daily goal for a decent workout. Anyway, I have had an annoying creak for almost 6 months and simply could not find it. Tried pedal cleaning / tightening, tried crank cleaning / tightening, tried replacing the bottom bracket (which needed replacing anyway!), but still no luck. Thank you so much for "3:37: Chain ring bolts." I never would have thought of that without watching your video. But when I cleaned, greased, and tightened the small chainring bolts that did the trick. No more annoying creak!! Honestly, it never even occurred to me that the small chain ring was bolted to the larger one. Just something I never noticed and gave any thought. So you may want to point out to folks that if the creaking is only occurring when the chain is on the small chain ring in the front, then that is clearly an indicator that loose chain ring bolts are the culprit! Thanks again!
Had a weird creak coming from somewhere near the bottom/rear of the bike that took me several rides to properly diagnose, it only creaked after a few miles into a ride and only when putting a lot of effort into a pedal downstroke. Stopped and held the front brake, loading up the frame with stress by pushing hard down on a pedal while staying stationary. I could tell that the frame was flexing just a tiny little bit. I went over the frame with a fine toothed comb, checked crankset, pedals, bottom bracket, bottle cages, derailleurs, stem, headset, everything I could think of. But it turns out it was none of those things. It was a loose rear thru-axle. Tightened that up a bit and the creaking is completely gone.
A little story on the subject: I Tried to find out the origin of creaking noise on my Olmo with Campagnolo parts (UT cranks). After several rides I was pretty sure it was the crankset. So obvious: when putting pressure on pedals the sound came very visible and when riding easy no creaks... I geased the pedal threads, checked the cleat connection points, chainring bolts, I even opened the cranks and put new grease everywhere. Took also care of the seatpost area. I even tried to get the creaking sound when standing on the pedals with all my weight (while not driving), looking a possible clues on crack(s) in the frame. Nothing. I was already thinking, and kinda getting oriented, that I have to take out the bb cups... Then on one ride, I started to twist the handlebar up and down direction for some reason. Awful creaking sound, even when not pedaling. Then it came to my mind: I turned the bar to lift the STI-shifters a little bit higher few weeks earlier and ofcourse loosened the bolts which were hand tightened (very tight) and now I used torque wrench and proper torque! I took the bar off of the stem and greased the tightening bolts, also the steering tube tightening bolts and the top cap bolt. I greased the handlebar from the stem's connection point and did the same job to stem too. Result: Completely silent! No creaks! No more annoying sound effects. Just some normal drivetrain noise. Educational: Don't think right away the obvious one is the quilty one...
Thanks for this video as it has just reminded me that I had a annoying clicking noise to track down. It seemed to be coming from the drive train but with carbon frame's acoustics you never really know for sure. Interestingly, this noise would seem to go away after giving the bike a good wash but only to come back after a first puddle. So I started the inspection front to back and, what a surprise, it was actually in the last part I checked -- rear hub of my vision metrons, ratchet mechanism to be more specific. Cleaned, re-lubed and re-greased it all. Lets see how long is it going to last...
I've been chasing a creak/click around my bike for the past year. Usually sounds like it's coming from the front end of the bike. Over the past year I've stripped the bottom bracket, headset, hubs, cranks, pedals, cassette, seatpost. You name it, I tried it. Finally discovered the cause the other day - saddle rails where they enter the nose of the saddle. Incredibly annoying but it's great to have a silent bike again! And really shows how sounds can travel around the frame and sound like they're coming from somewhere totally different.
I’ve been cycling since ‘87; worked in shops and by far the most common creak candidates are quick release levers that are not tight, saddle that needs to be tightened properly, loose pedals and by far the most common was cogs not torqued to hub; that one always seems like a crank or B.B. issue! I have very limited experience with press fit but they seem to be likely culprits
@@6___________99_____________64 yes I did, now I always keep them greased as I ride bike very hard. Stop the creak 101: -do M check, I thought this wasn't important and found out after chasing the creak for a while that one pivot bolt was loose -Lube Chain link by link and pedal for 30 sec -grease both axels -push grease into seat rail holes with grease gun
I spent about a year trying to locate a clicking noise, which disappeared after having a flat on my front tire. It was the valve stem vibrating on the rim. After that, I always use the valve stem nut on aluminium wheels.
I've had this. Headset was a bit buzzy so re-set and tightened it, perfect. But then the rear wheel seemed really rattly, worryingly so. I was prepared to go route one and get back to the manufacturer but a bit of electircal tape round the valve stem. Solved.
I would add, and this sounds stupid, but for BB and seatpost creaks...check that your rear QR is REALLY tight, especially if it is thru-axle. I thought my WhlsMfg. ceramic BB had given up, or that I cracked a seat-tube, based on the creak I was getting. Checked all the usual suspects, BB, crank arms, pedal spindles, ring bolts, etc. Turns out the stupid QR could have been tighter and was resonating noise down the carbon chainstays. GREAT series, GCN guys!
On my Gurus, the rear axel mount lug is bonded to the chain stay and bolted to the seat stay. This allowed them to customize the length of the stays and seat tube without having a whole bunch of lugs. One of the bolts had worked loose and started to creak and induce what felt like wheel flex when out of the saddle. I had my knee braces develop a clicking noise. Now I spray them with silicon spray to quiet them. You know you are old when you creak more than the bike does.
I didn't intend to come here to watch, I was looking for something else altogether, but oh well... I had a great time watching, and besides, I'm a subscriber, anyway. I'm a lifelong cyclist, but I've had to make all my rides short & easy lately due to a badly-torn calf. Just what I wanted when I finally retired. You covered pretty much all the places where a noise can occur. I have a tip for anyone whose bike has skewered hubs, and come to think of it, this tip can help for nutted axles, too: They may already know that, when locking the skewer (while installing the wheel), the skewer acts as a vice, and this clamping pressure can and will compress the hub assembly, and it's standard practice to use trial & error to find the right bearing adjustment prior to installation. You normally end up leaving just a little play in the bearings, prior to installing the wheel to the bike. Typically, a hub that feels right when you can simply twirl the axle in your fingers will end up with play or with too much tension when the wheel's installed onto the frame (or fork) & is being submitted to the clamping pressure of the skewer. As a brief aside, if the axle is nutted, then tightening the nuts upon installation will stretch the axle, & this usually leaves the bearings too loose in the race/cone bearing gap. In fact, either style can be "off" in either direction, it's a crapshoot, I tell ya. If it's only slightly too tight, it's nearly impossible to feel that or otherwise detect anything, because hand-rotating the wheel in the frame doesn't often reveal any obvious symptoms. If the hub is loose, it's easy enough to detect that, by rocking the rim from side to side. You'll definitely notice, though, if it's so tight that it rumbles or hops about when rotated. But if it's only a tad tight, it can still feel like it's fine after installing it onto the bike. The universe is out to kill you. What I do, is I use some washers in place of the dropouts. Then, I can fully clamp down the skewer(or the nuts, depending), as if when installing the wheel to the frame/fork. This allows me to still be able to twiddle the axle in my fingers with full skewer pressure, and that will then reveal if the bearings will need further adjustment. I then only need to do the standard trial & error procedure until the bearings are rolling about as smoothly as possible when "clamped", and can then simply remove the washers & install the wheel on the bike. It's best to start with the bearings a bit loose, then gradually ''sneak up to'' the right setting. I hope this helps some of your viewers. My wish is for everybody to have a safe, fun ride (or a kick-ass race) on a great bike. Thumbs up for the video. Rubber side down!
Hey, Jon, remember me? I'm the guy with the creaky rear wheel from a couple months back? Well, I finally got back to my bike and after putting the cassette back on (and actually forgetting my grease - in other words doing nothing you recommended lol), went for a couple rides and the creak is completely gone! At least for now... Very strange but I'm not complaining.
Creaky freehub. Once I took it apart, cleaned it up, regreased, and reassembled it, it was nice and quiet. It literally took me years to figure that one out. I knew it was the wheel, but thought it was the spokes, so I would grease the spoke crossings and fiddle with the skewer.
Informative, straight to the point, excellent. My bike is only 2 months old, boardman slr carbon. First couple of times I took it out it made no noise but after a 80 mile full test run, it now seems to have developed a click when going over bumpy ground mainly. I'm convinced the noise is coming from the front of the bike but, as noise can travel along certain parts of the frame it could also be coming from bottom bracket area/pedals. Am worried about stress to specific areas of the frame and as it's gotten slightly worse now more consistent it needs sorting out. Tightened all the bolts but gonna have to bite the bullet and go through everything, failing that bike shop and get them to check it over. Annoying to say the least. Still great vid. Thankyou
I had this click it drove me nuts.We did your check list, I finally figured out it was the Shimano ultegra small chain ring. It didn’t have sharks fin look on the teeth. It had 10k miles on it. I did replace the cassette not to long a go.
I have a Giant d-fuse seatpost with an internal wedge that expands via an external bolt to hold the post in place. For far too long I thought the source of incessant creaking, which only occurred when I was seated, was coming from the seatpost/seat interface so changed saddles, lubricated that area (as shown in the video), took the lube off and ran it dry- all to no success. Turned out there must have been some dirt had got into the wedge and cleaning this up and applying light grease and no more creak. Probably other brands have a similar arrangement so good place to check if you're getting creaks while seated
hey Jon. Just figured mine out, I hope. The clamp bolts on the left pedal. The creak comes with the down stroke of the left pedal. Crankset is a Tiagra c2008 CAAD9. Dunno how tight. Wish you'd cover that. Guess I'll just equal tighten one at a time and hope for the best.
In addition to the more obvious noises (e.g. spoke twang, cracked wheel or hub, odd winter shoe leather squinch), I've thought I had a clicking BB three times - twice it was dirt in my Keo pedals, and the other was the seat post.
The interface between pedal and cleat is quite a common one. Don't neglect to clean both regularly. Dry, no lube or grease works best for me. I've just come in from stripping and cleaning my BB (threaded Hollowtech II). I think it's an easy job. Certainly much easier than the old square taper things (which I didn't used to grease).
Clicks can also be caused after replacing a chain because the cog set has matched wear from the old chain in which case it's best to replace the cog set and chain at the same time. Clicks can also be caused by stiff chain links it can be fixed with a little bit of chain lube and working the link side to side and back and forth.
great vid, wish id seen it last year. Got a creak on my bike, in the end I replaced bottom bracket, headset, front wheel brg, not to mention greasing of seat post and fixings all over the place....to find it eventually coming from the front wheel skewer being dry against the drop out!
I once replaced the press fit bottom bracket with a new one, cleaned and regreased the seat post, saddle rails and headset before realizing the rear QR skewer was a bit loose...
Great video! Thanks for sharing that knowledge! I had a clicking noise every time my right pedal hit the top. I didn't know about trying the grease before but, I will try that next time. Someone on TH-cam suggested Teflon tape around the bottom bracket threads. I tried the Teflon tape and it worked!
I am having the same click when my right pedal hits the top under load...goes away when on the flat but immediately comes back going up hill. Bike is 2 weeks old...so mad.
I've also had that click when my right side pedal reaches the top as well. Turned out that the crank and pedal on that side were not torqued to spec when the shop assembled the bike. It was a recent purchase so when I took it back with that description the guys were able to repair it quickly.
I had a creaking noise on my commuter bike for the past 2 months that was driving me crazy because I couldn't figure out where it was coming from! After watching this video I immediately realized the problem must have been in the back wheel skewer and dropouts. I applied a generous amount of grease and my bike is beautifully silent again! Thanks so much for the great content, I can now appreciate my commute rides once more. 😎
Giant FCR creak, source? The water bottle cage screws of the Carbon Arundel cage. The frame flexing caused the cage mounting bolt locations to change slightly and it creaked every time i climbed. The fix was to place thin rubber washers between the cage abd frame.
In the seat area, also grease or carbon paste the arc of the seat post where it creates the angle of the seat and rails. I had that issue and I moved to a carbon seat post into an alloy frame. I swore it was the post but it was the arc of the mount, not the rails as I also thought that for a bit. It took me an entire season to figure that one out!
I had a really annoying creak on my bike, and wors of all it was intermittent! I first thought it was from the headset or the handlebars, tightened them up! Then I thought it was from the bottom bracket or ring bolts - tightened the bolts. But it still kept coming back! In the end, I figured it was the outer cables rubbing off my GoPro housing that was mounted to the handlebars!!! :D
Great gravel bicycle - Orbea Terra. I had a clicks on mine, coming from the fine rear derailleur adjuster, located in front of the head set. It was clicking with one of the hydraulic connectors when turning.
I had a square taper bottom bracket creak like crazy on an old bike(creaked loud enough to hear it reverberate off if buildings when riding by.), I fixed it up by taking it out and regressing it. Didn't need to replace the BB, even though the bike had around 12k miles on it.
round spokes rubbing together and build a little tension and then upon the release of that tension "tick", a sound not much different from that of a misaligned rear derailleur's chain sound but much more random in occurrence. Bontrager Paradigm 25 wheels. A drop of oil at the point of contact stops the noise for a short while so I'll be headed to the lbs for a spoke tension check.
I've got a steel framed Claud Butler and the only time I had a clicking noise was when I fitted a new rear mech, it just needed a bit of adjustment. As for creaks, only from a loose spoke. Other than that, nothing. My trike creaked a bit until I re-tightened one of the seat clamps that had loosened.
Best advice I read was to get someone else to listen, as when you're on the bike, it's nearly impossible to tell where a creak is coming from other than 'below you'. In this case, I was on an indoor trainer which made it easy, but I got someone to come listen to what i thought was a BB creak, as it would creak with every pedal stroke, but they pointed straight at the rear skewer and said 'there'. And yes, it wasn't clamped down tight enough!
ahhh maybe that’s my problem with mine then! i went on this morning and it started making a noise with every pedal stroke on the left side 😢 i don’t know what to do or how to really fix this
KEYS IN MY POCKET!! And it took me waaaay too long to figure that one out, LOL! Apart from that I had creeking seatposts, a creeky stem and a clicking pedal. The pedal I actually had to take apart and relube it - clicking was gone after that!
I've actually just fallen foul of the water bottle one. Or rather in my case it's the carbon bottle cage itself on a fairly new Venge disc. At first it was an intermittent clicking that was such a high frequency that it sounded like a violent electrical short arcing away underneath me! To say it had me pulling my hair out was an understatement, I went through the BB, the downtube access cover and even got myself convinced that it was the end of the front derailleur cable pinging off the frame. Whilst I've not totally cured it, thankfully it's calmed down after a week or so.
My weird place for a creak or rather squeak is from my shoes, not my cleats but my shoes. I get a squeak developing when out on a ride, 3-5 miles in i hear the squeak and took me ages before I eliminated everything it could be to my shoes. I use wet lube on the rachet system and talc inside the insole to reduce friction.
Most annoying noise was on my MTB hardtail, ss. (ignore that fact for now)😉 So, it was a vibration noise. I checked all cable routing, bolts, skewers, Hope brake levers (the ones that had the brass bushings, ALL GOOD! The noise was still there.... So I really set to and started to take things appart. Starting at the rear as that's where it "seemed" to be, I noticed a tiny stone resting on top of the disc pads. Problem solved! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🙄!
I grease square taper B.B.s' tapered surfaces and apply a stripe of medium (blue) Locktite to the threads and let it cure to the threads before assembly. I work with a guy who fancies himself a "wrench", who tries to tell me not to torque down the spindle bolts/nuts. I think he has twisted the heads off of a few with his big meat-hands. He is senior to me at the shop I work in, so I have to be sneaky to properly install square taper arms.
A couple years ago, Just had my new Cannondale CADD10 built with Campy Chorus 11 speed. My first ride was doing great on the smooth roads. Then I got on to the back farm roads and I started to get a rattling sound. I stopped numerous times, looking for the cause of the sound.. I rode home spent 45 minutes in the garage, looking over the bike, Bouncing my bike then taping any thing that was bolted on the frame. Then I finally found I had to bounce the bike almost like a basketball the have it make the sound again, Then I discovered it was the cables inside the frame by the head tube.
I had this "tinking" sound that no one could isolate. It only happened when out of the saddle. I eventually figured out it was quarter sliding inside my seat bag and tapping the seat post.
spoke nipples on mavic wheels when out of the saddle. Took me years to find (greasing everything mentioned in this video). Tried another set of wheels and voila!
So I had a creak "coming" from the bottom bracket area and what it was was that i slightly banged a nut on the rear axle and the creak was coming from the axle parts rotating against the frame (?) under pull from the paddles...retightened it and it was fine
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I have been hunting and mostly eliminating various creaks in the past, they all initially seem to come from the crank-area, right? However my latest creaking is giving me a headache. Every revolution my back wheel gives an annoying creak, regardless whether i'm pedaling or not. There is no rubbing on frame or brakes anywhere. It's a quite new bike with equally quite new wheels (Mavic Ksyriums) that have rolled less than 1000 kilometers. It's bought from a certain German internet giant and that's why I'd like to sort this myself instead of going trought the hazzle of packing and shipping to the not-so-local-bike-shop abroad. Greasing skewers didn't help.
Back wheel skewer!!!! I tightened the steerer, did the seat, checked pedals and cleats. The silly creak was identical sitting or standing so i was sizing up the bottom bracket task. Then i thought to just double check the rear wheel skewer... Aaaah, silence! I'm sure i can push harder when there is no creak!
I have had 2 chains creak on me! Same make and model, of course I changed half the components on my bike before I decided to try something "complex" like the chain!
I had a annoying metallic ting sound when i was pedalling sometimes😂Re greased all moving parts etc yet still it kept making that tink sound. Then i realized it was the end of my shoelace hitting the crank arm!!!
I bought a cannondale track bike and only the right side of the BB threads make a click sound. I thought it was the pedals or the crankset bolts but it isnt. I went ahead and tightened the left side of the gxp and no noise until I tighten the right one. Maybe it's the BB but I cleaned it but I'm surely it's the scratched on the bracket tube that it's on top or the right side bb. Regardless I'm buying a new gxp soon
Mine was silent the other day and now creaking coming from a rear wheel recently trued at a bike shop. So I will try everything. I have a feeling its either the free hub or a spoke. But hopefully its just something small
Ooh nice man! I didn't think about checking the cables. I'm looking for a weird creak that seems to come from the frame close to bottom bracket. It occurs for example when I'm off the bike holding the brakes and apply forward pressure. But also while riding and not braking. Going to remove seatpost, waterbottle holder, lock holder, kickstand, and all mudflaps to rule them out as a cause as well. T_T .... another day ..... yawn.... Bike has been ridden for six winters. Chain is stretched by over 2%. But don't fix what isn't broken!
When you finally do change the chain, if chain slips when pedaling, change most used front chainring, and if it still slips, rear cogs. Sometimes it's just the most used cogs, but if it's a freewheel, they all change together. Chain and front and rear cogs all wear together.
I've had aero spokes that weren't held in the correct alignment whilst tensioned, and these would make an annoying pinging racket that varied with wheel speed, especially when pedaling out of the saddle. The temporary solution was to put chain lube at the points where the spokes crossed, and the permanent solution was to re-tension the spokes that were misaligned.
Solution for square taper is to remove it from the bike and replace with a different bottom bracket system and cranks . I'm 240 lbs and pretty fit. Square taper lasts me 1-2 seasons no matter how tight they are, after that the cranks are slightly rounded over and need replacing.
Just today my bike was transported in a bus trailer and since then the front wheel makes a quiet but ugly noise and even worse vibrations. Also happens when lifted up. I'm gonna take a look tomorrow, I hope it's nothing too serious.
My Specialized Epic (aluminium) creaks at the seatpost. I had the creak resolved by cleaning, packing it with grease and proper torquing but the creak just came back. Is it okay to use retaining compound with a seatpost or do I run the risk of never getting the seatpost out ever again? Your advise is very much appreciated!!!!!
When i paddhle forward their is a noise that comes after a rotation ,,, and it also is evident if i paddle backwards the clicking sound feels like comming from frame .. or something clicking onto the frame .
My new bike is currently also plagued by creaks - and after guessing it must be the chainring bolts, I finally found the culprit. The sealed bearings in the rear wheel seem broken and occasionally cause creaks - and this is now (after some weeks) that bad that it's quite noticeable when turning the wheel. I really wonder what the dealer will say, as this bike so far did only 1500km. Also shouldn't these sealed bearings last longer than traditional bearings on wheels?
How to determine where your click or creak is coming from: do you ride a cannondale? Its you. Do you ride with someone who rides cannondale? Its them... simple lol
@@scc9306 Try some 320 grit sandpaper & smooth the spokes, just wherever the cross other spokes. If you suspected the problem was from the bb, it could be a pedal spindle, crank arm, chainring bolt, or maybe a cleat is loose on a shoe. Could be the seatpost, or the saddle clamp/seat rails. With any bearings, there's always some degree of possibility that there's a grain of sand or metal in them. The same holds true for anything that's clamped to the bike, as well. Some damn little thing interfering where the surfaces tighten into position. You might check for a damaged tooth on a chainring. You can eliminate that as a cause if the problem persists when you shift to another chainring. Beyond those areas, it's possible for almost any part of a bike to make a noise when a person is pedaling, as their weight tends to shift and their grip forces can vary with each rotation of the cranks. Some of those noises can fool you into thinking they come from some other part of the bike, so you basically end up with an incomplete list of suspects to troubleshoot. Check everything there is, and you'll find it.
randolph patterson thank you for the reply! I did eventually track it down. I greased the pedal threads and put on new washers and the problem is 100% solved. Couldn't believe it after all that time and annoyance
could i have broken the rod that sits in between the pedals or something around the rod? when i press on the left pedal there is a loud squeak which is followed by the pedal changing its rotating axis very slightly, when i press the other pedal, the pedal mechanism returns to the original position. i’m afraid i broke the biggest bicycle part
Thank you guys for the great video. I still cannot solve the noise mistery. My bike is 3 months old, did not make any sounds upon purchase. After couple of months the noise that I can describe between whizzing and buzzing started to come from the area of back wheel or components connected to it. Not loud, soft noise, only heard in quiet enviroment like isolated smoothly paved roads. Noise appears and disappears from time to time, only when I sit on the bike, whether I pedal or not. When I roll it without sitting on it - no noise. I do take care of cleaning but never went deep greasing. When I went to bike shop and described the problem they looked at me like at idiot, saying I am imagining the issue. So I am on my own fixing it. Do you have an idea what approximately could it be and how to fix it?
My bike started doing a persistent creaking noise when I took it to change the bottom bracket. It got worse over the course of 2 weeks and now it's intensified when I push the right crank or rest on it without pedaling. I've taken my bike there many MANY times for that bottom bracket and every time there's a new problem.
Last week I had a tick every couple of pedal turns. Turned out that one of the chain links was blocked up with sharp dust from the warm weather. As you can imagine. after a good clean and relube all was well again.
"Honestly, I was just riding along and then it just started to.........." The click that took the longest to find was a cracked aluminum chainwheel bolt.
Re : ‘greasy skewers’........my bike came with dry skewers and I was partly glad about this because I’m constantly swapping them in and out to use the turbo trainer, do I really need to grease ‘em up?.........
Spent last season chasing a persistent creak. Replaced the BB, took everything apart and cleaned/greased/re-torqued. Then I narrowed it down to my shoes, so I replaced all the bolt inserts, cleats, and cleaned and torqued everything. Still creaking like an old mans knees. Final discovery? Turns out the old vinyl covered Velcro straps have taken to rubbing on the metal D-rings. Solution: new shoes.
University took its toll on my bike... My rear derailleur pulley cage is slightly bent so the chain clicks every time the pulley rotates when in larger gears. Ive tried to bend it back with only a slight bit of luck (I don't want to cause more problems or break it). I had a creak in the chainring, tightened that right up and thats gone thankfully. Is the rear derailleur pulley cage hard to replace?
My old hybrid had been ridden into the ground, with a nasty creak from the bottom bracket. So I bought a new hybrid and took my MTB pedals from the old'n. First ride out... 'creak, creak, creak.' Turns out I just needed new pedals...
Well i have a new procaliber Trek with a Isospeed Decoupler below the saddle. I start to think the clicking comes from there. I tightend it again and it even seems to click louder. Or my mind is just playing tricks on me. I've got an appointment with the bikeshop for my first check up, just did 800km on it but it drives me nuts!
Every time I pedal or put pressure on the drive side crank there is a click or clunk type noise. All the bolts are tight and it’s a fairly new bottom bracket, any suggestions??
On my brand new square tapper BB, I had the dreaded creak after installing WITH grease, so I degreased properly and it made no difference. SOLUTION: PTFE tape, (as used by plumbers on compression joints etc). Perfect answer, and makes removal a doddle too. You're welcome.
After a week or two discovered annoying creak was coming from my helmet! Doh! I have a Domane 5.9 Di2 when giving it a bit of welly uphill the noise from the internal cables would wake the dead????
Hi, I have a salsa marrakesh and I have did a tune up on it lubed everything that moves adjusted the brakes so they don't touch. I still have a squeaky noise I cant tell where it is coming from. Any ideas?
on an old bike the headset cups can move in the frame and wear ever so slightly and creak. Just had this issue and put a new set in with loctite bearing compound
I'm using gravel bike and everytime I go off road or in bad road there's this creaking or click sounds I can't pinpoint and that's where I start looking for crack in frame ony find a paint crack tho scratched it up and the line is gone so I'm confused which part of it can came from recently upgrade my fork and cranks to hollowtech yet can't find anything wrong with them but once I'm off road this creaks and clicks started again
I have two month old 700cc bike. It clicks on right pedal side at 1 o'clock position every time I pedal . When I first start out there is no click. Maybe 10 minutes the clicking starts. What should I look to solve this? Thanks in advance.
Most of the creaks come from the crankset area (BB, pedals, chainring bolts) and the seatpost area. Always start inquiring there.
Tried it all but turned out it was my knees
😂
Yeah, there's no kneed for that is there!!
Too funny Mr.B you need to grease your knees
Yea I’ve got the same thing in my knees it’s called runners knee
That’s copied
I once had a haunted bike. Really, there is no other explaination.
After watching multiple videos, taking my bike to three local bike shops, i was at that point where i wanted to replace my frame because of that annoying creak. but before that, i replaced my BB and pedal (by the way, the creaking sound only appeared when going uphill and when speeding up, when the cranks are stressed). the frame is the oldest part of my bike and i thought this was the culprit. checked the whole frame, no cracks...i was about to give up (again), and thought, maybe i should grease the skewer, as this video advised...greased it lightly, placed it back on, immediately went uphill, i almost cried lol. no more creak. Thanks a lot GCN Tech. Bike frame on shopping cart, removed!
The worse is when you take it ot the shop they charge you for something and when you go out the damn thing is still clicking and ticking.
happens all the time…..
Front wheel has restriction….
“Oh yea we get in the bearings and all”
Get bike : same thing after u told them n paid $140 for tuneup
@@McRemmyBaby Bike shops are a rip off I swear, this stuff isn't too complicated or expensive to do yourself. Only thing I won't touch is wheels, I'd lose my mind trying to true them.
Everytime...
I guess it's because they don't actually check the bike while riding it, but on the bike stand. I always think they should do a test ride themselves before handing the bike back to me :(
Jon, you must be reading our minds because today I literally was going to pose a question for the GCN Tech Clinic about my creaking seat post. Really good and informative video!
Richard Isaksen Cheers Richard!
Thanks. Very helpful. I checked everything, and in the end it was the chainring bolts. Very annoying tick tick under power.
Thank you so much. I ride hills every day. 1500 vertical feet in 15 miles is my daily goal for a decent workout. Anyway, I have had an annoying creak for almost 6 months and simply could not find it. Tried pedal cleaning / tightening, tried crank cleaning / tightening, tried replacing the bottom bracket (which needed replacing anyway!), but still no luck. Thank you so much for "3:37: Chain ring bolts." I never would have thought of that without watching your video. But when I cleaned, greased, and tightened the small chainring bolts that did the trick. No more annoying creak!!
Honestly, it never even occurred to me that the small chain ring was bolted to the larger one. Just something I never noticed and gave any thought.
So you may want to point out to folks that if the creaking is only occurring when the chain is on the small chain ring in the front, then that is clearly an indicator that loose chain ring bolts are the culprit!
Thanks again!
Thank you for the video. Led me straight to the trouble. A lube and tightening of the seat post components set me right!
Had a weird creak coming from somewhere near the bottom/rear of the bike that took me several rides to properly diagnose, it only creaked after a few miles into a ride and only when putting a lot of effort into a pedal downstroke. Stopped and held the front brake, loading up the frame with stress by pushing hard down on a pedal while staying stationary. I could tell that the frame was flexing just a tiny little bit. I went over the frame with a fine toothed comb, checked crankset, pedals, bottom bracket, bottle cages, derailleurs, stem, headset, everything I could think of. But it turns out it was none of those things.
It was a loose rear thru-axle. Tightened that up a bit and the creaking is completely gone.
Cheers, would never have suspected the rear axle if not for your comment.
A little story on the subject:
I Tried to find out the origin of creaking noise on my Olmo with Campagnolo parts (UT cranks). After several rides I was pretty sure it was the crankset. So obvious: when putting pressure on pedals the sound came very visible and when riding easy no creaks...
I geased the pedal threads, checked the cleat connection points, chainring bolts, I even opened the cranks and put new grease everywhere. Took also care of the seatpost area. I even tried to get the creaking sound when standing on the pedals with all my weight (while not driving), looking a possible clues on crack(s) in the frame. Nothing. I was already thinking, and kinda getting oriented, that I have to take out the bb cups...
Then on one ride, I started to twist the handlebar up and down direction for some reason. Awful creaking sound, even when not pedaling. Then it came to my mind: I turned the bar to lift the STI-shifters a little bit higher few weeks earlier and ofcourse loosened the bolts which were hand tightened (very tight) and now I used torque wrench and proper torque!
I took the bar off of the stem and greased the tightening bolts, also the steering tube tightening bolts and the top cap bolt. I greased the handlebar from the stem's connection point and did the same job to stem too.
Result: Completely silent! No creaks! No more annoying sound effects. Just some normal drivetrain noise. Educational: Don't think right away the obvious one is the quilty one...
Thanks for this video as it has just reminded me that I had a annoying clicking noise to track down. It seemed to be coming from the drive train but with carbon frame's acoustics you never really know for sure. Interestingly, this noise would seem to go away after giving the bike a good wash but only to come back after a first puddle.
So I started the inspection front to back and, what a surprise, it was actually in the last part I checked -- rear hub of my vision metrons, ratchet mechanism to be more specific. Cleaned, re-lubed and re-greased it all. Lets see how long is it going to last...
Glad you found the video useful Kiryl!
I've been chasing a creak/click around my bike for the past year. Usually sounds like it's coming from the front end of the bike. Over the past year I've stripped the bottom bracket, headset, hubs, cranks, pedals, cassette, seatpost. You name it, I tried it. Finally discovered the cause the other day - saddle rails where they enter the nose of the saddle. Incredibly annoying but it's great to have a silent bike again! And really shows how sounds can travel around the frame and sound like they're coming from somewhere totally different.
I’ve been cycling since ‘87; worked in shops and by far the most common creak candidates are quick release levers that are not tight, saddle that needs to be tightened properly, loose pedals and by far the most common was cogs not torqued to hub; that one always seems like a crank or B.B. issue! I have very limited experience with press fit but they seem to be likely culprits
This was very helpful. Both of my skewers were dry and needed lubricating, that was the source of my front and rear squeak!
Did you just regrease the skewer shafts ?
@@6___________99_____________64 yes I did, now I always keep them greased as I ride bike very hard. Stop the creak 101:
-do M check, I thought this wasn't important and found out after chasing the creak for a while that one pivot bolt was loose
-Lube Chain link by link and pedal for 30 sec
-grease both axels
-push grease into seat rail holes with grease gun
@@connorplow I eventually found my 3 month super annoying clicking sound source yesterday. Derailleur hanger screws were not tight.
@@6___________99_____________64 oops I forgot that one, glad you found it. I pulled mine off and greased it
No doubt Jon's heavily invested in Grease Futures.
I spent about a year trying to locate a clicking noise, which disappeared after having a flat on my front tire.
It was the valve stem vibrating on the rim. After that, I always use the valve stem nut on aluminium wheels.
I've had this. Headset was a bit buzzy so re-set and tightened it, perfect. But then the rear wheel seemed really rattly, worryingly so. I was prepared to go route one and get back to the manufacturer but a bit of electircal tape round the valve stem. Solved.
I would add, and this sounds stupid, but for BB and seatpost creaks...check that your rear QR is REALLY tight, especially if it is thru-axle. I thought my WhlsMfg. ceramic BB had given up, or that I cracked a seat-tube, based on the creak I was getting. Checked all the usual suspects, BB, crank arms, pedal spindles, ring bolts, etc. Turns out the stupid QR could have been tighter and was resonating noise down the carbon chainstays. GREAT series, GCN guys!
Thank you, Sir
I am diagnosing a creak. This gives me quite a lot of things to check.
Great! Glad to be of service!
On my Gurus, the rear axel mount lug is bonded to the chain stay and bolted to the seat stay. This allowed them to customize the length of the stays and seat tube without having a whole bunch of lugs. One of the bolts had worked loose and started to creak and induce what felt like wheel flex when out of the saddle.
I had my knee braces develop a clicking noise. Now I spray them with silicon spray to quiet them. You know you are old when you creak more than the bike does.
I didn't intend to come here to watch, I was looking for something else altogether, but oh well... I had a great time watching, and besides, I'm a subscriber, anyway. I'm a lifelong cyclist, but I've had to make all my rides short & easy lately due to a badly-torn calf. Just what I wanted when I finally retired. You covered pretty much all the places where a noise can occur. I have a tip for anyone whose bike has skewered hubs, and come to think of it, this tip can help for nutted axles, too: They may already know that, when locking the skewer (while installing the wheel), the skewer acts as a vice, and this clamping pressure can and will compress the hub assembly, and it's standard practice to use trial & error to find the right bearing adjustment prior to installation. You normally end up leaving just a little play in the bearings, prior to installing the wheel to the bike. Typically, a hub that feels right when you can simply twirl the axle in your fingers will end up with play or with too much tension when the wheel's installed onto the frame (or fork) & is being submitted to the clamping pressure of the skewer. As a brief aside, if the axle is nutted, then tightening the nuts upon installation will stretch the axle, & this usually leaves the bearings too loose in the race/cone bearing gap. In fact, either style can be "off" in either direction, it's a crapshoot, I tell ya. If it's only slightly too tight, it's nearly impossible to feel that or otherwise detect anything, because hand-rotating the wheel in the frame doesn't often reveal any obvious symptoms. If the hub is loose, it's easy enough to detect that, by rocking the rim from side to side. You'll definitely notice, though, if it's so tight that it rumbles or hops about when rotated. But if it's only a tad tight, it can still feel like it's fine after installing it onto the bike. The universe is out to kill you. What I do, is I use some washers in place of the dropouts. Then, I can fully clamp down the skewer(or the nuts, depending), as if when installing the wheel to the frame/fork. This allows me to still be able to twiddle the axle in my fingers with full skewer pressure, and that will then reveal if the bearings will need further adjustment. I then only need to do the standard trial & error procedure until the bearings are rolling about as smoothly as possible when "clamped", and can then simply remove the washers & install the wheel on the bike. It's best to start with the bearings a bit loose, then gradually ''sneak up to'' the right setting. I hope this helps some of your viewers. My wish is for everybody to have a safe, fun ride (or a kick-ass race) on a great bike. Thumbs up for the video. Rubber side down!
Stem top cap is a good un! Your convinced it’s the stem bolts or the head set or the spacers or the front spokes etc...
Hey, Jon, remember me? I'm the guy with the creaky rear wheel from a couple months back? Well, I finally got back to my bike and after putting the cassette back on (and actually forgetting my grease - in other words doing nothing you recommended lol), went for a couple rides and the creak is completely gone! At least for now... Very strange but I'm not complaining.
Creaky freehub. Once I took it apart, cleaned it up, regreased, and reassembled it, it was nice and quiet. It literally took me years to figure that one out. I knew it was the wheel, but thought it was the spokes, so I would grease the spoke crossings and fiddle with the skewer.
Informative, straight to the point, excellent. My bike is only 2 months old, boardman slr carbon. First couple of times I took it out it made no noise but after a 80 mile full test run, it now seems to have developed a click when going over bumpy ground mainly. I'm convinced the noise is coming from the front of the bike but, as noise can travel along certain parts of the frame it could also be coming from bottom bracket area/pedals. Am worried about stress to specific areas of the frame and as it's gotten slightly worse now more consistent it needs sorting out. Tightened all the bolts but gonna have to bite the bullet and go through everything, failing that bike shop and get them to check it over. Annoying to say the least. Still great vid. Thankyou
I had this click it drove me nuts.We did your check list, I finally figured out it was the Shimano ultegra small chain ring. It didn’t have sharks fin look on the teeth. It had 10k miles on it. I did replace the cassette not to long a go.
Took me a while to find it but I had a creaky QR skewer once. Drove me up the bloody wall.
Been there, my friend. Hope you found yours faster than I did. I swore it was BB.
Same! The guys at the bike shop wouldn't believe me that it wasn't the BB. Eventually I figured it out on my own!
Yes! Had that. Helped to put a dab of grease around the drop-outs and skewer bits.
Exactly what just happened to me today! Finally after 2 months of creaking....
I have a Giant d-fuse seatpost with an internal wedge that expands via an external bolt to hold the post in place. For far too long I thought the source of incessant creaking, which only occurred when I was seated, was coming from the seatpost/seat interface so changed saddles, lubricated that area (as shown in the video), took the lube off and ran it dry- all to no success. Turned out there must have been some dirt had got into the wedge and cleaning this up and applying light grease and no more creak. Probably other brands have a similar arrangement so good place to check if you're getting creaks while seated
hey Jon. Just figured mine out, I hope. The clamp bolts on the left pedal. The creak comes with the down stroke of the left pedal. Crankset is a Tiagra c2008 CAAD9.
Dunno how tight. Wish you'd cover that. Guess I'll just equal tighten one at a time and hope for the best.
In addition to the more obvious noises (e.g. spoke twang, cracked wheel or hub, odd winter shoe leather squinch), I've thought I had a clicking BB three times - twice it was dirt in my Keo pedals, and the other was the seat post.
The interface between pedal and cleat is quite a common one. Don't neglect to clean both regularly. Dry, no lube or grease works best for me.
I've just come in from stripping and cleaning my BB (threaded Hollowtech II). I think it's an easy job. Certainly much easier than the old square taper things (which I didn't used to grease).
Spoke noises are the worst I think.
Clicks can also be caused after replacing a chain because the cog set has matched wear from the old chain
in which case it's best to replace the cog set and chain at the same time. Clicks can also be caused by stiff
chain links it can be fixed with a little bit of chain lube and working the link side to side and back and forth.
great vid, wish id seen it last year. Got a creak on my bike, in the end I replaced bottom bracket, headset, front wheel brg, not to mention greasing of seat post and fixings all over the place....to find it eventually coming from the front wheel skewer being dry against the drop out!
This, and rear skewer, are what many have found, and are the easiest to try first.
I once replaced the press fit bottom bracket with a new one, cleaned and regreased the seat post, saddle rails and headset before realizing the rear QR skewer was a bit loose...
Great video! Thanks for sharing that knowledge!
I had a clicking noise every time my right pedal hit the top. I didn't know about trying the grease before but, I will try that next time. Someone on TH-cam suggested Teflon tape around the bottom bracket threads. I tried the Teflon tape and it worked!
I am having the same click when my right pedal hits the top under load...goes away when on the flat but immediately comes back going up hill. Bike is 2 weeks old...so mad.
I've also had that click when my right side pedal reaches the top as well. Turned out that the crank and pedal on that side were not torqued to spec when the shop assembled the bike. It was a recent purchase so when I took it back with that description the guys were able to repair it quickly.
I had a creaking noise on my commuter bike for the past 2 months that was driving me crazy because I couldn't figure out where it was coming from!
After watching this video I immediately realized the problem must have been in the back wheel skewer and dropouts. I applied a generous amount of grease and my bike is beautifully silent again!
Thanks so much for the great content, I can now appreciate my commute rides once more. 😎
Giant FCR creak, source? The water bottle cage screws of the Carbon Arundel cage. The frame flexing caused the cage mounting bolt locations to change slightly and it creaked every time i climbed. The fix was to place thin rubber washers between the cage abd frame.
In the seat area, also grease or carbon paste the arc of the seat post where it creates the angle of the seat and rails. I had that issue and I moved to a carbon seat post into an alloy frame. I swore it was the post but it was the arc of the mount, not the rails as I also thought that for a bit. It took me an entire season to figure that one out!
I had a really annoying creak on my bike, and wors of all it was intermittent! I first thought it was from the headset or the handlebars, tightened them up! Then I thought it was from the bottom bracket or ring bolts - tightened the bolts. But it still kept coming back! In the end, I figured it was the outer cables rubbing off my GoPro housing that was mounted to the handlebars!!! :D
Great gravel bicycle - Orbea Terra. I had a clicks on mine, coming from the fine rear derailleur adjuster, located in front of the head set. It was clicking with one of the hydraulic connectors when turning.
I had a square taper bottom bracket creak like crazy on an old bike(creaked loud enough to hear it reverberate off if buildings when riding by.), I fixed it up by taking it out and regressing it. Didn't need to replace the BB, even though the bike had around 12k miles on it.
round spokes rubbing together and build a little tension and then upon the release of that tension "tick", a sound not much different from that of a misaligned rear derailleur's chain sound but much more random in occurrence. Bontrager Paradigm 25 wheels. A drop of oil at the point of contact stops the noise for a short while so I'll be headed to the lbs for a spoke tension check.
Great timing! I just discovered some clicks on the way home from work. Hope, this video will help me to solve this problem.
Let us know Wlad!
Are those clicks coming from the handle bar and if they are how did you solved it
I've got a steel framed Claud Butler and the only time I had a clicking noise was when I fitted a new rear mech, it just needed a bit of adjustment. As for creaks, only from a loose spoke. Other than that, nothing.
My trike creaked a bit until I re-tightened one of the seat clamps that had loosened.
Best advice I read was to get someone else to listen, as when you're on the bike, it's nearly impossible to tell where a creak is coming from other than 'below you'. In this case, I was on an indoor trainer which made it easy, but I got someone to come listen to what i thought was a BB creak, as it would creak with every pedal stroke, but they pointed straight at the rear skewer and said 'there'. And yes, it wasn't clamped down tight enough!
ahhh maybe that’s my problem with mine then! i went on this morning and it started making a noise with every pedal stroke on the left side 😢 i don’t know what to do or how to really fix this
KEYS IN MY POCKET!! And it took me waaaay too long to figure that one out, LOL! Apart from that I had creeking seatposts, a creeky stem and a clicking pedal. The pedal I actually had to take apart and relube it - clicking was gone after that!
I've actually just fallen foul of the water bottle one. Or rather in my case it's the carbon bottle cage itself on a fairly new Venge disc. At first it was an intermittent clicking that was such a high frequency that it sounded like a violent electrical short arcing away underneath me! To say it had me pulling my hair out was an understatement, I went through the BB, the downtube access cover and even got myself convinced that it was the end of the front derailleur cable pinging off the frame. Whilst I've not totally cured it, thankfully it's calmed down after a week or so.
My weird place for a creak or rather squeak is from my shoes, not my cleats but my shoes. I get a squeak developing when out on a ride, 3-5 miles in i hear the squeak and took me ages before I eliminated everything it could be to my shoes. I use wet lube on the rachet system and talc inside the insole to reduce friction.
Most annoying noise was on my MTB hardtail, ss. (ignore that fact for now)😉
So, it was a vibration noise. I checked all cable routing, bolts, skewers, Hope brake levers (the ones that had the brass bushings, ALL GOOD!
The noise was still there.... So I really set to and started to take things appart. Starting at the rear as that's where it "seemed" to be, I noticed a tiny stone resting on top of the disc pads. Problem solved! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🙄!
Out of the saddle, drove me nuts. Was eventually the little screwring ohne the innertube valve fixing it to the rim
I grease square taper B.B.s' tapered surfaces and apply a stripe of medium (blue) Locktite to the threads and let it cure to the threads before assembly. I work with a guy who fancies himself a "wrench", who tries to tell me not to torque down the spindle bolts/nuts. I think he has twisted the heads off of a few with his big meat-hands. He is senior to me at the shop I work in, so I have to be sneaky to properly install square taper arms.
A couple years ago, Just had my new Cannondale CADD10 built with Campy Chorus 11 speed. My first ride was doing great on the smooth roads. Then I got on to the back farm roads and I started to get a rattling sound. I stopped numerous times, looking for the cause of the sound.. I rode home spent 45 minutes in the garage, looking over the bike, Bouncing my bike then taping any thing that was bolted on the frame. Then I finally found I had to bounce the bike almost like a basketball the have it make the sound again, Then I discovered it was the cables inside the frame by the head tube.
I had this "tinking" sound that no one could isolate. It only happened when out of the saddle. I eventually figured out it was quarter sliding inside my seat bag and tapping the seat post.
Hahahahahaaaaa! You sir just made my day!
gwynbleidd13 thanks!
That was really funny.. i just went looking for coins in mine!
My lungs going uphill
Thank you for that, I was absolutely cracking up reading that.
😂
🤣🤣🤣
spoke nipples on mavic wheels when out of the saddle. Took me years to find (greasing everything mentioned in this video). Tried another set of wheels and voila!
So I had a creak "coming" from the bottom bracket area and what it was was that i slightly banged a nut on the rear axle and the creak was coming from the axle parts rotating against the frame (?) under pull from the paddles...retightened it and it was fine
I have been hunting and mostly eliminating various creaks in the past, they all initially seem to come from the crank-area, right? However my latest creaking is giving me a headache. Every revolution my back wheel gives an annoying creak, regardless whether i'm pedaling or not. There is no rubbing on frame or brakes anywhere. It's a quite new bike with equally quite new wheels (Mavic Ksyriums) that have rolled less than 1000 kilometers. It's bought from a certain German internet giant and that's why I'd like to sort this myself instead of going trought the hazzle of packing and shipping to the not-so-local-bike-shop abroad. Greasing skewers didn't help.
Back wheel skewer!!!! I tightened the steerer, did the seat, checked pedals and cleats. The silly creak was identical sitting or standing so i was sizing up the bottom bracket task. Then i thought to just double check the rear wheel skewer... Aaaah, silence! I'm sure i can push harder when there is no creak!
Love the Morph Cut at 6:07 😘
I have had 2 chains creak on me! Same make and model, of course I changed half the components on my bike before I decided to try something "complex" like the chain!
I had a annoying metallic ting sound when i was pedalling sometimes😂Re greased all moving parts etc yet still it kept making that tink sound. Then i realized it was the end of my shoelace hitting the crank arm!!!
What is the correct grease for aluminium seatpost and aluminium frame?
My CX bike PF-30 bottom bracket sings like a bird... That's so romantic !
:D
Have clicks from the left pedal on the downstroke...will attempt to fix this asap, still riding for now. Hopefully not till the wheels fall off
I bought a cannondale track bike and only the right side of the BB threads make a click sound. I thought it was the pedals or the crankset bolts but it isnt. I went ahead and tightened the left side of the gxp and no noise until I tighten the right one. Maybe it's the BB but I cleaned it but I'm surely it's the scratched on the bracket tube that it's on top or the right side bb. Regardless I'm buying a new gxp soon
Mine was silent the other day and now creaking coming from a rear wheel recently trued at a bike shop. So I will try everything. I have a feeling its either the free hub or a spoke. But hopefully its just something small
Can waxed chains also creek after skipping a sprocket very hard (while doing over 600W)?
Creaks from the spokes. DT Swiss Spline DB on my bike. Fasten them to fix it.
Where do you apply the oil?
Where the spokes cross each other
Ooh nice man! I didn't think about checking the cables. I'm looking for a weird creak that seems to come from the frame close to bottom bracket.
It occurs for example when I'm off the bike holding the brakes and apply forward pressure. But also while riding and not braking.
Going to remove seatpost, waterbottle holder, lock holder, kickstand, and all mudflaps to rule them out as a cause as well.
T_T .... another day ..... yawn.... Bike has been ridden for six winters. Chain is stretched by over 2%. But don't fix what isn't broken!
When you finally do change the chain, if chain slips when pedaling, change most used front chainring, and if it still slips, rear cogs. Sometimes it's just the most used cogs, but if it's a freewheel, they all change together. Chain and front and rear cogs all wear together.
I've had aero spokes that weren't held in the correct alignment whilst tensioned, and these would make an annoying pinging racket that varied with wheel speed, especially when pedaling out of the saddle. The temporary solution was to put chain lube at the points where the spokes crossed, and the permanent solution was to re-tension the spokes that were misaligned.
For me it was saddle rails those bolts and rails do take a beating and get really dirty so it’s good to clean them out
Solution for square taper is to remove it from the bike and replace with a different bottom bracket system and cranks . I'm 240 lbs and pretty fit. Square taper lasts me 1-2 seasons no matter how tight they are, after that the cranks are slightly rounded over and need replacing.
Just today my bike was transported in a bus trailer and since then the front wheel makes a quiet but ugly noise and even worse vibrations. Also happens when lifted up.
I'm gonna take a look tomorrow, I hope it's nothing too serious.
Cant find any reason why my tires are making a popping or creak sound when I ride. Every time I squish the tire it makes a weird noise.
My Specialized Epic (aluminium) creaks at the seatpost. I had the creak resolved by cleaning, packing it with grease and proper torquing but the creak just came back. Is it okay to use retaining compound with a seatpost or do I run the risk of never getting the seatpost out ever again? Your advise is very much appreciated!!!!!
When i paddhle forward their is a noise that comes after a rotation ,,, and it also is evident if i paddle backwards the clicking sound feels like comming from frame .. or something clicking onto the frame .
My new bike is currently also plagued by creaks - and after guessing it must be the chainring bolts, I finally found the culprit. The sealed bearings in the rear wheel seem broken and occasionally cause creaks - and this is now (after some weeks) that bad that it's quite noticeable when turning the wheel. I really wonder what the dealer will say, as this bike so far did only 1500km. Also shouldn't these sealed bearings last longer than traditional bearings on wheels?
How to determine where your click or creak is coming from: do you ride a cannondale? Its you. Do you ride with someone who rides cannondale? Its them... simple lol
Daniel Ellis here because of my supersix. Right in the feels. Ive replaced bb. Replaced bb shell adapter today. Still clicking. Wtffff
@@scc9306 Try some 320 grit sandpaper & smooth the spokes, just wherever the cross other spokes. If you suspected the problem was from the bb, it could be a pedal spindle, crank arm, chainring bolt, or maybe a cleat is loose on a shoe. Could be the seatpost, or the saddle clamp/seat rails. With any bearings, there's always some degree of possibility that there's a grain of sand or metal in them. The same holds true for anything that's clamped to the bike, as well. Some damn little thing interfering where the surfaces tighten into position. You might check for a damaged tooth on a chainring. You can eliminate that as a cause if the problem persists when you shift to another chainring. Beyond those areas, it's possible for almost any part of a bike to make a noise when a person is pedaling, as their weight tends to shift and their grip forces can vary with each rotation of the cranks. Some of those noises can fool you into thinking they come from some other part of the bike, so you basically end up with an incomplete list of suspects to troubleshoot. Check everything there is, and you'll find it.
randolph patterson thank you for the reply! I did eventually track it down. I greased the pedal threads and put on new washers and the problem is 100% solved. Couldn't believe it after all that time and annoyance
Exactly. I ride a cannondale. I hear it whenever I pedal hard. I dont think its the bb. So Im going to look on the freewheel.
TWO-WHEEL WANDERER My Cannondale was creaking at the seat post, greased it and problem solved. Swore it was the BB
I have clicking from seatpost clamp. Using carbon seatpost in steel frame. Fixed it once it returned after 50 km or so 😣
could i have broken the rod that sits in between the pedals or something around the rod? when i press on the left pedal there is a loud squeak which is followed by the pedal changing its rotating axis very slightly, when i press the other pedal, the pedal mechanism returns to the original position. i’m afraid i broke the biggest bicycle part
Thank you guys for the great video. I still cannot solve the noise mistery. My bike is 3 months old, did not make any sounds upon purchase. After couple of months the noise that I can describe between whizzing and buzzing started to come from the area of back wheel or components connected to it. Not loud, soft noise, only heard in quiet enviroment like isolated smoothly paved roads. Noise appears and disappears from time to time, only when I sit on the bike, whether I pedal or not. When I roll it without sitting on it - no noise. I do take care of cleaning but never went deep greasing. When I went to bike shop and described the problem they looked at me like at idiot, saying I am imagining the issue. So I am on my own fixing it. Do you have an idea what approximately could it be and how to fix it?
My bike started doing a persistent creaking noise when I took it to change the bottom bracket.
It got worse over the course of 2 weeks and now it's intensified when I push the right crank or rest on it without pedaling.
I've taken my bike there many MANY times for that bottom bracket and every time there's a new problem.
take it for a second opinion elsewhere
Last week I had a tick every couple of pedal turns. Turned out that one of the chain links was blocked up with sharp dust from the warm weather. As you can imagine. after a good clean and relube all was well again.
Im beginning to suspect this. After every relube, the noise was gone, but the loud knocking noise come back after 100km!
I’ve never heard of greasing skewers. I will definitely do this from now on.
"Honestly, I was just riding along and then it just started to.........." The click that took the longest to find was a cracked aluminum chainwheel bolt.
what about checking the lockring on the cassette - had one loose once and caused a clicking when pedalling
Re : ‘greasy skewers’........my bike came with dry skewers and I was partly glad about this because I’m constantly swapping them in and out to use the turbo trainer, do I really need to grease ‘em up?.........
Spent last season chasing a persistent creak. Replaced the BB, took everything apart and cleaned/greased/re-torqued. Then I narrowed it down to my shoes, so I replaced all the bolt inserts, cleats, and cleaned and torqued everything. Still creaking like an old mans knees. Final discovery? Turns out the old vinyl covered Velcro straps have taken to rubbing on the metal D-rings. Solution: new shoes.
University took its toll on my bike... My rear derailleur pulley cage is slightly bent so the chain clicks every time the pulley rotates when in larger gears. Ive tried to bend it back with only a slight bit of luck (I don't want to cause more problems or break it). I had a creak in the chainring, tightened that right up and thats gone thankfully. Is the rear derailleur pulley cage hard to replace?
My old hybrid had been ridden into the ground, with a nasty creak from the bottom bracket. So I bought a new hybrid and took my MTB pedals from the old'n. First ride out... 'creak, creak, creak.' Turns out I just needed new pedals...
Same here!
So what is the correct torque for the bolts?
Well i have a new procaliber Trek with a Isospeed Decoupler below the saddle. I start to think the clicking comes from there. I tightend it again and it even seems to click louder. Or my mind is just playing tricks on me. I've got an appointment with the bikeshop for my first check up, just did 800km on it but it drives me nuts!
Every time I pedal or put pressure on the drive side crank there is a click or clunk type noise. All the bolts are tight and it’s a fairly new bottom bracket, any suggestions??
On my brand new square tapper BB, I had the dreaded creak after installing WITH grease, so I degreased properly and it made no difference.
SOLUTION: PTFE tape, (as used by plumbers on compression joints etc). Perfect answer, and makes removal a doddle too. You're welcome.
After a week or two discovered annoying creak was coming from my helmet! Doh! I have a Domane 5.9 Di2 when giving it a bit of welly uphill the noise from the internal cables would wake the dead????
Hi, I have a salsa marrakesh and I have did a tune up on it lubed everything that moves adjusted the brakes so they don't touch. I still have a squeaky noise I cant tell where it is coming from. Any ideas?
on an old bike the headset cups can move in the frame and wear ever so slightly and creak. Just had this issue and put a new set in with loctite bearing compound
jonnoMoto That will be a pain in the backside to get out when the time comes. But at least it'll work well for now.
I'm using gravel bike and everytime I go off road or in bad road there's this creaking or click sounds I can't pinpoint and that's where I start looking for crack in frame ony find a paint crack tho scratched it up and the line is gone so I'm confused which part of it can came from recently upgrade my fork and cranks to hollowtech yet can't find anything wrong with them but once I'm off road this creaks and clicks started again
I have two month old 700cc bike. It clicks on right pedal side at 1 o'clock position every time I pedal . When I first start out there is no click. Maybe 10 minutes the clicking starts. What should I look to solve this? Thanks in advance.
It wasn't the pedal. Typical freaking cheap new bike parts used once again.