I didnt use protective tape between my top tube bag and the top tube which resulted in the bag rubbing and scratching the top tube leaving a small but annoying scratch.
What's shocking is that if I add the prices of two Campag equipped customs I bought twenty years ago, it still is not enough to buy a current super bike. Bike prices are quite silly these days.
You can not afford $500-$1,000 for a used Carbon Fiber Bike? I have three or four for sale right now. Felt F3c, Cannondale Synapse and Focus. All are 10 speed and size small/52
A story I heard from a pro team mechanic; the team were getting a lot of top tube failures following crashes in the peloton. Strangely the riders weren't involved in the crash. Instead they were caught behind the crash and spent their time sitting on the top tube waiting for the road to be cleared. The frame wasn't designed to take their weight in that way and a lot of very expensive frames were ruined.
I wouldn't say the frame isn't designed in that way, rather the frame is being made way too fragile in order to make it as light as possible. An aluminum or steel frame will be perfectly fine, even though it wasn't designed for it either. Just a problem with carbon fiber and the way the weave is pointed along with it being made way too thin and fragile.
WOW! It's scary that the frames are engineered to such specific load patterns that they become so fragile with any other load. Plus, we're talking pro rides, who weight nothing, not clydesdales.
Just ruined my Cervelo S2 by tightening the fork too tight. I thought it was loose, but it was the head tube bearing that was giving way. Anyways, the steamer tube snapped while riding and have I were putting pressure on the left foot instead of the right, I would have crashed into upcoming trafic. Want to stay alive, use a torque wrench!
I've cracked my sworks handlebar due to not checking the torque wrench, was actually set at 7nm, and I thought it was at 4nm, a simple double check could have saved myself a few hundred dollars...
This glossy orbea is gorgeous ❤. Also this was a helpful video! I’ve dropped a chain before and I’m terrified of it happening again but on my carbon bike this time.
@@LazyGrayF0x As some might mention, most of the bolts on bicycles are from 4Nm to 6Nm max... that is a very low torque value. So some might find it insufficient and add way more, which can and does introduce hairline cracks in carbon fibre composite parts of your bike. In fact, it can be very dangerous as well, as the now damaged weak point can fail under stress while you're riding the bike.
I was riding a full carbon Trek bke when I was hit head-on by an SUV turning left in front of me. The only thing that broke was the carbon fork, which snapped in two right at the place where the blades attached to the steerer tube. I was uninjured. Crazy!
As someone who has steel frames, Alunminum and one carbon frame your tips are really useful. I think the chain catcher was invented for carbon frames. I like the Carbon frame a lot but worry that I will damage it beyond repair. I have also dented a Steel frame top tube by clamping it. The newer steel frames are really thin. To protect my frames I use the Silca Hirobel frame support or the Park PRS 20. I have always used dummy hubs when travelling. Thanks Alex
I had a chain catcher for my carbon frame. When the chain dropped it forced its way past the catcher under weight and could not be put back on the rings without Removing the catcher. I no longer use a catcher.
In the last 35 years, I've had 3 carbon bikes. I haven't taken particular care of any of them and the first was crashed twice, but none has had any issues. I have put guards on the chainstays and taped the frame where the cables might rub.
Why all front derailleurs don't come with a chain catcher is beyond me. I've got them on all my bikes. Another tip- when leaning your bike against a stationary object or wall position the drive side toward the wall. That way if it does fall over it won't hit on your derailleur.
"if you notice a that your chain is dropped off, first thing you have to do is stop peddeling immediatelly". That is a hint for every cyclist. 🙂 Otherwise you can kill a solid steelbike.
Thank you for your video. I was just so close to buying a carbon fibre bike but will now stay with metal. I dont need to have the lightest bike, i prefer durability. And if i want to ride lighter i have to work on my belly fat first.
the crazy thing about carbon fiber is that the biggest selling argument is how strong it is compared to metal......and yet we have to treat it like glass
I wonder if you have seen the frame to be cracked when the 'rare seat post clamp mount' is holding/attached to a 10-30kg package rear rack because of on-off pavement bumps rides in city/ off roads?
Great information ! ! ! I'll stay with my aluminum frame Specialized 2011 Allez with more than 20k kms. on it. Until now, I have not noticed any signs of metal fatigue, it brought me to a lot of places.
I had a problem with a LeMond frame on my 2007 Buenos Aires. But, it was the metal dropout that cracked. The carbon tubes that the dropouts were epoxied into were fine. Trek gave me the cost of a new frame under warranty which I applied to a 2015 Domane 5.2. It's going strong after 8 years and 25000 miles.
Worst material used for an everyday vehicle ever. Other industries have dabbled in carbon composites, but none other is as irrationally consumed by its allure. Not to mention the people who have been maimed or killed because it brakes with no warning. Oh, but they haven’t watched the video on how to prevent it from breaking, so it’s their own fault, caused by the users MISTAKES! How convenient for this totally negligent bike industry
I purchased a Hirobel Frame Clamp from Silca for my work stand and it's been amazing. Yeah, it's a bit pricy but I know that my carbon frames will always be OK.
Go steel, and you'll never ever, EVER!!! have to worry about that, in fact, you can clamp it as hard as you can and you'll never have your frame break.
There's also the maximum seatpost insertion height on bikes with a tapered seat tube, like the one in the video. The bottom of the seatpost should not touch that area. There's probably an indicator hole somewhere in the tube.
I will stay with metal framed bikes. Metal is maleable and far more resistant to damage, it also does not fail catastrophically like carbon fibre does.
@@Kid_Ellipsis Well, I'll gladly let you kick my titanium frame (1992) as hard as you want if you let me kick your carbon bike frame (life span of 10 years, not easily recyclable) Heck! I'll let you kick my 1988 steel frame!
Yes, but carbon bike is not that brittle. It's easier to dent an alloy frame than breaking a carbon frame. The only downside is any substantial damage in carbon frame is not reparable.
I ve bikes of all materials except magnesium / my carbon frames are from the early 2000s Trek and Koga they are not ultra lightweight but real good work horses- I don’t feel sorry for people who buy the lightest and most expensive frames common sense must say that a frame of 900gr must be more fragile than one of 1300gr like my Koga or Trek (the DuraAce model from 2003)
@@danielhertercasagrande1686 Back when I got my Peter Mooneys, the hot carbon at my LBS was one of the Kestrels. I don't rightly recall the weight, but I'd guess they are a fair bit heavier than the current offerings. (Hmm... quick internet gander suggests the Kestrel 4000 was about 1.5lbs heavier than my custom steel.)
I took my carbon bike on vacation for the first time this year. I used a car roof mount system where you mount the bike by the fork at the front and a strap around the rear rim. Zero clamps! Worked like a charm. Only downside is having to put the front wheel inside the car.
Meanwhile the other guy on TH-cam (Jourdain Coleman I think) goes to carbon repair specialist, takes a hammer, and struggles to make a dent in carbon frame lol. They even tried to make the top rube crack by clamping it, with force beyond excessive for any situation, and nothing happened.
if you can’t hang the frame on any of the bars than I won’t be getting carbon bikes any time soon. I want a frame that will last 10 years of abuse. Steel or alu for me.
I use the top tube for my bike stand and balance the bike (Dogma F10 disc) with wheels on and only loosely close the clamp. For most jobs, that's all the grip strength I need. My stand clamp's length and my seatpost height above the frame are a bit in conflict. But great video as always, Alex!
Find away to use a seat post. The rocking end to end ....not good either...mark the seat post and don't extend beyond max height . This really applies to all bicycles reguardles of the material . Also do not trim off too much from the seat so you can safely extend to clamp it in your stand.
Question, if I may: I started cycling a few month back in order to get fit and to loose weight. I absolutely fell in love with the sport and I already lost some weight. I would like to get an upgrade of my bike, Bianchi Oltre XR4. Yes I know, a waste for my level of skill, but I absolutely love the bike and now is probably the only opportunity in my life when I can afford such a buy...Anyhow, should I be worried that XR4 frame could be damaged if I weigh ca. 116 kg? Now I am riding a mid-spec gravel bike and it's fine...Thanks in advance for you advice, mighty GCN and internet.
I am riding since many years and I am overweight: I guess you and me have less watts than the good sprinters we don’t go extremely fast down hill and do not harsh breaking thus the frame is less stressed than in a racing situation And finally don’t buy the ultra light weight models a frame of 1200 to 1400 grams has more reserves that a 900 gramm frame
Just check max rider weights for your preferred bike. I am not heavy, but I avoid frames with rider weight limits as I suspect they are pushed too far in terms of safety factors.
I have seen many times cyclists sat down on their top tube during short sops. How safe is it for a carbon frame? Because I do it too, and I am a lightweight person
I do it all the time, as do many seasoned riders to be honest. Waiting on the start line of a race almost everyone is sat on their top tube. I’ve never seen it cause an issue
I use 1x chainring and it gives me absolute trust on sprinting and shifting gears. 2x chainring, a lot of bad experience, i had a chain snap off and the remaining chain kicked on the front derailleur damaging the carbon frame.
Frames are painted, so the first thing you chip or rub off is the paint. Then carbon is put on in layers of tubes - scratching one layer doesnt cause a problem same as scratching a solid metal. You just scratch some carbon tubve thats independent of other in the array. Avoid crushing or chipping carbon, surface scratching the outside layer wont do much damage.
I feel like if a 3k+ frame can be broken by tipping over under its own weight it's not a good material. Carbon fiber is good in certain circumstances such as tension, but weak to compression and especially to shock. Bicycles experience both contantly. Cyclist's obsession with saving grams at the expense of hundreds or thousands of pounds amuses me, as if the vast majority of them will ever be high enough level for it to make any meaningful difference.
Great video! When I saw that paint damage to the head tube on that one carbon fiber bike, it made me think of an idea for a video. Can you do a video on paint touchups and whether it makes sense to do it yourself or have a professional do it and relative costs? Can decals be replaced, etc?
A good chance those, who claimed they have been clamping bike on top tube just fine, are the same bunch claim they have been fine riding bikes without helmets….
Seen many cracked Aluminium and carbon frames due to incorrect seatpost height. Check your Seatpost! Next thing is get a torque wrench if you work a lot on your carbon bike. Carbon really doesnt like beeing compressed and a lot of problems come from incorrect handling of your tools. @gcntech are those 30mm Pirellis front and back on that Orca Aero? 🧐🧐
New Question. I just replaced a bike and the new one has Shimano 105Di2. I live in Texas and my garage is pretty hot. What is the safe temperature range for storage? I’ve seen that it has been tested to 50C but also found long term storage recommended at 20C. It seems like it would affect a lot of riders and the fires/explosions from these new batteries are amazingly hot. Thanks. M.
I understand why the pro & advanced amateur peloton uses plastic (carbon fiber reinforced) framed bikes, as they have very high stiffness and low weight relative to other frame materials, but for us mere mortals, I think they are ridiculous. When you have to worry about it getting knocked over just stopping for coffee, seriously? A recent group ride, and inexperienced cyclist didn't know how to load her bike on a bike rack at a SAG & knocked my bike over. It cost me a $30 derailleur hanger, not the frame or a huge repair bill, which if honest will cost resale value down the road. Cycling is about the only sport where the audience has to have the same tech as pros. My car doesn't have gutted interiors, plastic seats & roll bars like race cars. Rant off.
Do a quick dive into carbon frames cracking because of using your truck's tailgate as a bike rack. This even happens with padded over the tailgate racks specifically designed for bike transport!
@@yonglingng5640 Yes. Just do a google search for it. There's plenty of stories. Carbon bikes aren't designed for the stress in that spot behind the fork.
Ok. I am not intentionally buying a carbon frame after seeing this video. My bikes tend to end up being abused a LOT since they are my primary and daily mean of transport in the city.
I have a 1988 steel frame, a 1992 ti mtb and a 2006 ti road bike. All with either steel or titanium forks. And my 29 ‘’ all mountain is alu. No carbon for me. 40 years plus of riding.
@@gcntech Probably aluminium. They are cheap, light and can take a decent amount of beating. I ride all year long and during winter there is salt everywhere. Light weight is good for accelerating at traffic lights.
@@lakotamm At the same time, so many steel frames are out there for so little money. For me either alu or steel will do, even for our harsh Quebec winters.
I find it still hilarious that average Joe riders ride on Carbon frames while pushing a belly in front of them. I ride AL because if I wanna get lighter I just lose 4lb. Carbon frame?? Sure once I weigh 66kg and have 5% body fat like a TDF rider.
You clearly don't know why carbon is advantageous. It isn't just "because it's light". My lightest bike is actually aluminium, and that scares me way more than the carbon ones...
Also the maximum insertion is a thing to not touch the cutout...if a person is just too small and introduces the entire seatpost it could be not complying with the manufacturer min/max insertion, in Specialized's website the Tarmac user manual is at bottom for download and reading. I cut my seatpost since after my measurement still had a lot of tube so i got it at right measurement and comply with manual and reducuded 20 grams 😅
This is something to check for if if your seat tube is a non-straight tube. Some Cervelo's have this "problem"...you need a relief cut in the back of the post to avoid a load point on the back of the seat tube curvature. A shop I worked at had a customer bring in a used purchase that ended up with this problem (crack in the back of the seat tube), and it turns out it stemmed from improper build protocol when the bike was new. A lot of things inside bikes even when new that a lot of people are not aware of.
there is absolutely no need to clamp a bike that hard on a repair stand. its just excessive to be anywhere near tube crushing regardless of which one you choose
I ride titanium. Manufactures don't back their carbon bikes. A chainstay broke on my Look and they said 'too bad.' Never again will I buy a carbon frame, as gorgeous as they are.
Have you ever made any of these mistakes? 😬
I dont have a carbon frame 😢
Clamp to the to tube? No would never do that. That would be crazy. Only thing I clamp to the top tube is my childs ”shot Gun” seat.
I didnt use protective tape between my top tube bag and the top tube which resulted in the bag rubbing and scratching the top tube leaving a small but annoying scratch.
Well, not on a carbon frame just yet...
I broke an aluminum frame by sticking the seatpost too high...
I avoid breaking my carbon frame by not being able to afford one.
Best answer!!
What's shocking is that if I add the prices of two Campag equipped customs I bought twenty years ago, it still is not enough to buy a current super bike. Bike prices are quite silly these days.
Aluminum all the way.
😂 me too
You can not afford $500-$1,000 for a used Carbon Fiber Bike? I have three or four for sale right now. Felt F3c, Cannondale Synapse and Focus. All are 10 speed and size small/52
A story I heard from a pro team mechanic; the team were getting a lot of top tube failures following crashes in the peloton. Strangely the riders weren't involved in the crash. Instead they were caught behind the crash and spent their time sitting on the top tube waiting for the road to be cleared. The frame wasn't designed to take their weight in that way and a lot of very expensive frames were ruined.
Saw that in tons of GCN videos.
I wouldn't say the frame isn't designed in that way, rather the frame is being made way too fragile in order to make it as light as possible. An aluminum or steel frame will be perfectly fine, even though it wasn't designed for it either. Just a problem with carbon fiber and the way the weave is pointed along with it being made way too thin and fragile.
@@username8644 So it wasn’t designed for it. Not arguing with anything you said but you are making the same point.
Good point.
WOW! It's scary that the frames are engineered to such specific load patterns that they become so fragile with any other load. Plus, we're talking pro rides, who weight nothing, not clydesdales.
Not using the torque wrench can really damage your bike. Mainly shattered handlebars due to too much torque on the handlebar clamp bolts.
Just ruined my Cervelo S2 by tightening the fork too tight. I thought it was loose, but it was the head tube bearing that was giving way. Anyways, the steamer tube snapped while riding and have I were putting pressure on the left foot instead of the right, I would have crashed into upcoming trafic. Want to stay alive, use a torque wrench!
Less is more. If in doubt, use torque wrench, decent sets are $50
I've cracked my sworks handlebar due to not checking the torque wrench, was actually set at 7nm, and I thought it was at 4nm, a simple double check could have saved myself a few hundred dollars...
This glossy orbea is gorgeous ❤. Also this was a helpful video! I’ve dropped a chain before and I’m terrified of it happening again but on my carbon bike this time.
@@LazyGrayF0x As some might mention, most of the bolts on bicycles are from 4Nm to 6Nm max... that is a very low torque value. So some might find it insufficient and add way more, which can and does introduce hairline cracks in carbon fibre composite parts of your bike. In fact, it can be very dangerous as well, as the now damaged weak point can fail under stress while you're riding the bike.
I have learned in February that hitting a car head on can snap my carbon frame.
Sounds like big steel propaganda tbh...
It's not too good for a steel frame either. I suspect titanium and aluminum won't fare well in this case too.
@@christopheroliver148 well, I've only tested it on carbon 😂
Yeah, it's not too good for the human body either!
I was riding a full carbon Trek bke when I was hit head-on by an SUV turning left in front of me. The only thing that broke was the carbon fork, which snapped in two right at the place where the blades attached to the steerer tube. I was uninjured. Crazy!
Alex has convinced me never to buy a carbon bike. I don't think the sponsors will be pleased.
Using a lot of spacers above the stem with a short steerer plug can lead to clamping crush-cracks in the region of the lower stem bolt.
I didn't know that. hmm🤔
enter all the titanium, steel, manganese, all other alternate frame material lovers in the comments
I just stick with aluminum; its cheap, light, etc.
The fear of carbon fiber imploding is vastly overrated. Don't worry, it's quite safe.
That’s under the ocean😅
@@ArcadeCODM😬
Repair carbon cost as much as brand new aluminum frame bike.
just get a real bike. aka aluminum bike
As someone who has steel frames, Alunminum and one carbon frame your tips are really useful. I think the chain catcher was invented for carbon frames. I like the Carbon frame a lot but worry that I will damage it beyond repair. I have also dented a Steel frame top tube by clamping it. The newer steel frames are really thin. To protect my frames I use the Silca Hirobel frame support or the Park PRS 20. I have always used dummy hubs when travelling. Thanks Alex
Frame support is a great idea! 🙌 What material do you think is best?
Chain Cat her came from MTB’s.
I had a chain catcher for my carbon frame. When the chain dropped it forced its way past the catcher under weight and could not be put back on the rings without Removing the catcher. I no longer use a catcher.
@@michaeljoseph6515 Sorry, but you installed the catcher incorrectly or the catcher you purchased was not designed correctly.
In the last 35 years, I've had 3 carbon bikes. I haven't taken particular care of any of them and the first was crashed twice, but none has had any issues. I have put guards on the chainstays and taped the frame where the cables might rub.
Why all front derailleurs don't come with a chain catcher is beyond me. I've got them on all my bikes. Another tip- when leaning your bike against a stationary object or wall position the drive side toward the wall. That way if it does fall over it won't hit on your derailleur.
💯
Buy alloy frame. Future problem solved😂
"if you notice a that your chain is dropped off, first thing you have to do is stop peddeling immediatelly". That is a hint for every cyclist. 🙂 Otherwise you can kill a solid steelbike.
Thank you for your video. I was just so close to buying a carbon fibre bike but will now stay with metal. I dont need to have the lightest bike, i prefer durability. And if i want to ride lighter i have to work on my belly fat first.
Lmao "one of the 5 people that enjoy bikepacking..." shots fired!!
Bike paking is overrated.
No idea how you can't enjoy that. Love it like nothing else
what about respecting torque on every bolt there is ? That's way common than everything listed here i believe
Yes, this. However, sometimes, if it does break even when you torqued to spec (say, your seatpost and the seatpost wedge clamp), it's not your fault.
the crazy thing about carbon fiber is that the biggest selling argument is how strong it is compared to metal......and yet we have to treat it like glass
It's only strong in its intended force vectors.
Yes, definetly. Other issue I noticedbits that the coating on the fiber isn't very resistant and cheap off with a slight scratch
I wonder if you have seen the frame to be cracked when the 'rare seat post clamp mount' is holding/attached to a 10-30kg package rear rack because of on-off pavement bumps rides in city/ off roads?
Great information ! ! ! I'll stay with my aluminum frame Specialized 2011 Allez with more than 20k kms. on it. Until now, I have not noticed any signs of metal fatigue, it brought me to a lot of places.
Great tips Felix!!!Keep up the good work!
I had a problem with a LeMond frame on my 2007 Buenos Aires. But, it was the metal dropout that cracked. The carbon tubes that the dropouts were epoxied into were fine. Trek gave me the cost of a new frame under warranty which I applied to a 2015 Domane 5.2. It's going strong after 8 years and 25000 miles.
Sounds like you got a great deal! 🙌 Is your 2015 Domane in the bike vault? We want to see it 👉 GCN.eu/app
What cassette is that with the oil slick on the bigger sprockets?
Very informative video, thanks Alex.
Worst material used for an everyday vehicle ever. Other industries have dabbled in carbon composites, but none other is as irrationally consumed by its allure. Not to mention the people who have been maimed or killed because it brakes with no warning. Oh, but they haven’t watched the video on how to prevent it from breaking, so it’s their own fault, caused by the users MISTAKES! How convenient for this totally negligent bike industry
Breaks with no warning? You've never broken anything carbon have you?
Probably best not use it for aeroplanes I guess...
Guilty of clamping top tube. Only ever clamped very very lightly but after watching this it will be seat tube every time for me.
Just balance the top tube in the work stand, so you don't really need much clamping force.
Better yet, avoid carbon frames! F carbon! Aluminium, Steel and Titanium.
I purchased a Hirobel Frame Clamp from Silca for my work stand and it's been amazing. Yeah, it's a bit pricy but I know that my carbon frames will always be OK.
Whoop whoop! 🙌 Stress free clamping!
@@gcntech Haha. You got it. Definitely not to be underestimated.
Even if you upgrade your carbon seatpost to an über lightweight counterpart (Darimo, MCFK, Schmolke Carbon, THM), you're all covered. 👍
Go steel, and you'll never ever, EVER!!! have to worry about that, in fact, you can clamp it as hard as you can and you'll never have your frame break.
I know that carbon frames are durable and safe.
But every time I watch videos like these, I am happy to have an aluminum frame.
Not to mention, aluminum is better for the environment as it is fully recyclable. Broken carbon just goes into a landfill.
There's also the maximum seatpost insertion height on bikes with a tapered seat tube, like the one in the video. The bottom of the seatpost should not touch that area. There's probably an indicator hole somewhere in the tube.
Good point. Also be careful with the seatpost too low and DI.2 front mech cables. You can cut them in some cases.
Not all seat tubes have a hole for minimum insertion check like the Roubaix SL5. I always leave 10 mm of buffer room.
I’m viewing my old heavy aluminium MTB with newfound respect. You would have to drive over it in a tank to do serious damage.
I will stay with metal framed bikes. Metal is maleable and far more resistant to damage, it also does not fail catastrophically like carbon fibre does.
Is this comment from 2008?
@@Kid_Ellipsis Well, I'll gladly let you kick my titanium frame (1992) as hard as you want if you let me kick your carbon bike frame (life span of 10 years, not easily recyclable) Heck! I'll let you kick my 1988 steel frame!
@@grosminceyou can literally hit them with hammers. All this is BS
Yes, but carbon bike is not that brittle. It's easier to dent an alloy frame than breaking a carbon frame. The only downside is any substantial damage in carbon frame is not reparable.
More you see of this video the more I like the sound of titanium !!!
Or Aluminium
I ve bikes of all materials except magnesium / my carbon frames are from the early 2000s Trek and Koga they are not ultra lightweight but real good work horses- I don’t feel sorry for people who buy the lightest and most expensive frames common sense must say that a frame of 900gr must be more fragile than one of 1300gr like my Koga or Trek (the DuraAce model from 2003)
@@danielhertercasagrande1686 Back when I got my Peter Mooneys, the hot carbon at my LBS was one of the Kestrels. I don't rightly recall the weight, but I'd guess they are a fair bit heavier than the current offerings. (Hmm... quick internet gander suggests the Kestrel 4000 was about 1.5lbs heavier than my custom steel.)
Titanium is pretty dreamy! Manon got to see how titanium frames are made 👉th-cam.com/video/bkpe7WQ2E9Y/w-d-xo.html
Good tips here. I would add overtorqued bolts.
Yes! You have to be super careful around bolts... A torque wrench is a must 👉 th-cam.com/video/hv4oUvt3nFk/w-d-xo.html
And for the front and rear forks what is recommended? 2-3 Nm?
@@Cycle774RTFM...
7: not using torque wrench to tighten the bolt
Carbon fiber frames are for racing purposes only...they are not meant for cafe riders.
"Carbon fiber frames are for racing purposes only." Absolutely! I agree 100%
"they are not meant for cafe riders." Or Bike messengers, Endurance riders, up-hill climbers such as myself, Moutain Bikers, BMXers, etc.
What about hang from top tube in rest days ?
I took my carbon bike on vacation for the first time this year. I used a car roof mount system where you mount the bike by the fork at the front and a strap around the rear rim. Zero clamps!
Worked like a charm. Only downside is having to put the front wheel inside the car.
Get a Thule wheel carrier too (99euro e.g. model 547001), problem solved.
Improper bunny hopping. Land improperly, and you can snap your frame in half.
Apparently carbon is better than aluminium 😂.
Another mistake: Overtightening bolts! Esp. those of the seat post and stem. Use a torque wrench!
Mechanic's tip: tighten it till it snaps then back it off half a turn. 🙂
Aluminium/Aluminium is real.
Its cheap, light, rust proof, etc.
Clamping an Aeroad '21 edition at the seat tube?
You must be crazy.
Over torquing a simple water bottle cage…
Meanwhile the other guy on TH-cam (Jourdain Coleman I think) goes to carbon repair specialist, takes a hammer, and struggles to make a dent in carbon frame lol.
They even tried to make the top rube crack by clamping it, with force beyond excessive for any situation, and nothing happened.
Not all frames are made equal and that workstand clamp is a plastic one.
@@yonglingng5640the point is 100% valid. You've got to be a complete ape to break a carbon frame by any of the methods in this video.
if you can’t hang the frame on any of the bars than I won’t be getting carbon bikes any time soon.
I want a frame that will last 10 years of abuse. Steel or alu for me.
I use the top tube for my bike stand and balance the bike (Dogma F10 disc) with wheels on and only loosely close the clamp. For most jobs, that's all the grip strength I need. My stand clamp's length and my seatpost height above the frame are a bit in conflict. But great video as always, Alex!
Find away to use a seat post. The rocking end to end ....not good either...mark the seat post and don't extend beyond max height . This really applies to all bicycles reguardles of the material . Also do not trim off too much from the seat so you can safely extend to clamp it in your stand.
How about using a car mounted bike rack that attaches at the top tube?
I like my old litespeed titanium even better now. Toughest frame material there is.
I get it folks, some carbon frames are wonderful to ride.
Question, if I may: I started cycling a few month back in order to get fit and to loose weight. I absolutely fell in love with the sport and I already lost some weight. I would like to get an upgrade of my bike, Bianchi Oltre XR4. Yes I know, a waste for my level of skill, but I absolutely love the bike and now is probably the only opportunity in my life when I can afford such a buy...Anyhow, should I be worried that XR4 frame could be damaged if I weigh ca. 116 kg? Now I am riding a mid-spec gravel bike and it's fine...Thanks in advance for you advice, mighty GCN and internet.
I am riding since many years and I am overweight: I guess you and me have less watts than the good sprinters we don’t go extremely fast down hill and do not harsh breaking thus the frame is less stressed than in a racing situation
And finally don’t buy the ultra light weight models a frame of 1200 to 1400 grams has more reserves that a 900 gramm frame
There is still a k (safety) factor of minimum 3 for a bike frame. You're fine.
Just check max rider weights for your preferred bike. I am not heavy, but I avoid frames with rider weight limits as I suspect they are pushed too far in terms of safety factors.
@BicycleForHealth Thanks for your reply. I ended up buying the Oltre XR4 and it holds up perfectly even with my higher weight.
Lol. "Lean your bike the wrong way." I don't know how you people ride these things.
They just ride and buy upgrades, that's all they know about cycling.
I'd be fairly certain that the number of carbon bikes broken by leaning it wrongly is so close to zero as to be irrelevant.
I have seen many times cyclists sat down on their top tube during short sops. How safe is it for a carbon frame? Because I do it too, and I am a lightweight person
I do it all the time, as do many seasoned riders to be honest. Waiting on the start line of a race almost everyone is sat on their top tube. I’ve never seen it cause an issue
I use 1x chainring and it gives me absolute trust on sprinting and shifting gears.
2x chainring, a lot of bad experience, i had a chain snap off and the remaining chain kicked on the front derailleur damaging the carbon frame.
I use a old set of drop bars for working on my carbon frame. I just clamp the drops in the workstand and sorta hang the frame on there.
Good little tip! Do you wrap the bars so that they grip the frame a little better? 👀
Yes, I occasionally use this bar on my track bike so it does not have brake leavers, is wrapped and ready to go.
The Titan submersible guy should have watched this.
Frames are painted, so the first thing you chip or rub off is the paint. Then carbon is put on in layers of tubes - scratching one layer doesnt cause a problem same as scratching a solid metal. You just scratch some carbon tubve thats independent of other in the array. Avoid crushing or chipping carbon, surface scratching the outside layer wont do much damage.
I feel like if a 3k+ frame can be broken by tipping over under its own weight it's not a good material.
Carbon fiber is good in certain circumstances such as tension, but weak to compression and especially to shock. Bicycles experience both contantly.
Cyclist's obsession with saving grams at the expense of hundreds or thousands of pounds amuses me, as if the vast majority of them will ever be high enough level for it to make any meaningful difference.
Great video! When I saw that paint damage to the head tube on that one carbon fiber bike, it made me think of an idea for a video. Can you do a video on paint touchups and whether it makes sense to do it yourself or have a professional do it and relative costs? Can decals be replaced, etc?
A good chance those, who claimed they have been clamping bike on top tube just fine, are the same bunch claim they have been fine riding bikes without helmets….
Yep. 🙂
Nope.
or just buy a titanium or aluminium bike?
Or steel.
The best way to avoid damaging your carbon frame is to buy an aluminium bike :)
That's one way to do it 😂
We used to make sure the handlebar cables prevented handlebar strike.
Why do people sit on the top tube then? I've seen people do that.
Great video! I love that shirt! Will it be on the gcn store soon?
Seen many cracked Aluminium and carbon frames due to incorrect seatpost height. Check your Seatpost! Next thing is get a torque wrench if you work a lot on your carbon bike. Carbon really doesnt like beeing compressed and a lot of problems come from incorrect handling of your tools.
@gcntech are those 30mm Pirellis front and back on that Orca Aero? 🧐🧐
Wasn't thick-walled aluminum?
If I was presenting this, it would be titled "Six Reasons Why I Own a Titanium Bike". 😂
New Question. I just replaced a bike and the new one has Shimano 105Di2. I live in Texas and my garage is pretty hot. What is the safe temperature range for storage? I’ve seen that it has been tested to 50C but also found long term storage recommended at 20C. It seems like it would affect a lot of riders and the fires/explosions from these new batteries are amazingly hot. Thanks. M.
lithium batteries are best kept at temperatures significantly lower than 50degC - hence I’d take them out, if not used, if at all possible
Put the batteries in the fridge😂🥶
Interesting question! One for #askgcntech and we'll be able to pick up in the tech clinic 🙌
5 people who enjoy bike packing? That's an unreasonably high estimate, and deity knows what their other "hobbies" are if they enjoy bike packing.
True or false
Carbon bikes should be transported on platform racks rather than hanging bike racks?
"Carbon bikes" covers such a wide range of bikes that's impossible to answer.
I understand why the pro & advanced amateur peloton uses plastic (carbon fiber reinforced) framed bikes, as they have very high stiffness and low weight relative to other frame materials, but for us mere mortals, I think they are ridiculous. When you have to worry about it getting knocked over just stopping for coffee, seriously? A recent group ride, and inexperienced cyclist didn't know how to load her bike on a bike rack at a SAG & knocked my bike over. It cost me a $30 derailleur hanger, not the frame or a huge repair bill, which if honest will cost resale value down the road. Cycling is about the only sport where the audience has to have the same tech as pros. My car doesn't have gutted interiors, plastic seats & roll bars like race cars. Rant off.
Always remove the derailleur when packing it up for it to be shipped.
Great little tip! Do you travel with your bike often? 👀
Laughs in aluminum
Carbon sucks! Stop buying these "single use" bikes...
Thanks for another reason for us to stick with aluminium bikes 😊
TBF carbon can mostly be repaired aluminium can't.
Nailed it 👍
@@zedddddful Yes it can, at a price of a new aluminium frame.
...And rim brakes.
You mean titanium right?
Handlebars striking the side of the top tube in a stationary fall is fatal?
apparently.
If the handlebar swings fast enough, yes, the top tube can crack.
Do a quick dive into carbon frames cracking because of using your truck's tailgate as a bike rack. This even happens with padded over the tailgate racks specifically designed for bike transport!
Did that ever happen to MTBs?
@@yonglingng5640 Yes. Just do a google search for it. There's plenty of stories. Carbon bikes aren't designed for the stress in that spot behind the fork.
Steel is real
Ok. I am not intentionally buying a carbon frame after seeing this video. My bikes tend to end up being abused a LOT since they are my primary and daily mean of transport in the city.
I have a 1988 steel frame, a 1992 ti mtb and a 2006 ti road bike. All with either steel or titanium forks.
And my 29 ‘’ all mountain is alu.
No carbon for me.
40 years plus of riding.
What material will you go for when looking for a daily work horse?
@@gcntecha steel city bike i dont care if it falls over
@@gcntech Probably aluminium. They are cheap, light and can take a decent amount of beating. I ride all year long and during winter there is salt everywhere. Light weight is good for accelerating at traffic lights.
@@lakotamm At the same time, so many steel frames are out there for so little money. For me either alu or steel will do, even for our harsh Quebec winters.
Why do the pros DO keep pedaling when their chain is off ? They are even backpedaling frantically…. Oh, yeah… Pros get all bikes for free…
I find it still hilarious that average Joe riders ride on Carbon frames while pushing a belly in front of them. I ride AL because if I wanna get lighter I just lose 4lb. Carbon frame?? Sure once I weigh 66kg and have 5% body fat like a TDF rider.
You clearly don't know why carbon is advantageous. It isn't just "because it's light". My lightest bike is actually aluminium, and that scares me way more than the carbon ones...
Do not expose your carbon bike to prolonged exposure to sunlight (UV rays) over time it can degrade your bikes frames.
Just more reasons not to buy carbon,
The other reason is seeing the priceless look on some try hands face when you overtake them
Also the maximum insertion is a thing to not touch the cutout...if a person is just too small and introduces the entire seatpost it could be not complying with the manufacturer min/max insertion, in Specialized's website the Tarmac user manual is at bottom for download and reading.
I cut my seatpost since after my measurement still had a lot of tube so i got it at right measurement and comply with manual and reducuded 20 grams 😅
This is something to check for if if your seat tube is a non-straight tube. Some Cervelo's have this "problem"...you need a relief cut in the back of the post to avoid a load point on the back of the seat tube curvature. A shop I worked at had a customer bring in a used purchase that ended up with this problem (crack in the back of the seat tube), and it turns out it stemmed from improper build protocol when the bike was new. A lot of things inside bikes even when new that a lot of people are not aware of.
Can't hose up your carbon frame if you only by steel and aluminum bikes.
What about sitting on the top tube? Some believe this can crack the frame and void your warranty!
there is absolutely no need to clamp a bike that hard on a repair stand. its just excessive to be anywhere near tube crushing regardless of which one you choose
Didn't know about drop chain damaging the frame. I learned something new to today. Thanks GCN
Glad we could help! GCN Tech is the place to come for learning new things 🤓
How to avoid snapping your carbon bike... Don't get one..
Don’t by a black carbon frame. Any damage splits/cracks are not as easily spotted
Hey there’s at least 8 of us that enjoy bikepacking!
Hold up, is that a SRAM cassette with a Shimano groupset?.. 😮
Probably. My first mod to every Sram bike - new shimano shifters and mechs.
GCN presenters are the same people who seat on their carbon top tubes, mid-video!
Yep. And they'll never have broken one...
Sanding off the paint 🙂
I ride titanium. Manufactures don't back their carbon bikes. A chainstay broke on my Look and they said 'too bad.' Never again will I buy a carbon frame, as gorgeous as they are.
I think your problem is with Look, not carbon.
I have an insurence so i just come here out of curiosity
Back to the good old days. Steel has none of those problems.