Excellent, that pitchiness was a worry with all your backyard obstacles. I was thinking servo centering or sloppy linkages? Now what plane will I make you buy next?
I replaced the receiver and put the CG forward a little, tried some more flights today and it was just spot on. Purrs around nice and smooth at half throttle, hands-off the sticks for a good 20 seconds or so sometimes.
@@iforce2d did you determine the servo chattering...I have 4 flysky receivers that will do the same thing??? I just switch off them back on as you did and they work OK but it does bother me too somewhat
@@madpropsracing I think it's the problem of the radio transmitter, and not the receiver. Mine does the same (FS-i6 with the FlyPlus Beta firmware). Fortunately it comes up immediately after turning it on.
Like the Opterra its ment for long distance, long flight time not speed. Alot of people who get these huge wings that fly race wings feel their to slow and over power them. The Opterra is 2m doesnt wobble when loaded and I only use 2x4500mah 3s batteries and fly forever. O I find the CG wrong on mine Opterra, wings look exact. Soon as I changed it no trim needed. Play with CG and lots of throw glide tests first. A good chuck just to make sure. Hinge tape is what Ive learnt with my large planes. I stupidly had to learn the hard way that starting out big isnt how to do it in RC both my first planes have 2m wings the FPV Raptor 2 and Opterra. Love the channel killing it.
Did you end up using a 700 kv motor or an 840? You mention in the FX79 buffalo mods/tips that you used about an 800 kv motor and I want to make sure. The turnigy 700 and the folding propeller spinner didn't come with a necessary attachments to affix the spinner so I'll have to get a bushing or an adapter to get it working. Another question, did you ever determine the all up weight of the buffalo with the 10000mah and mods? Thanks in advance
700kv or 800kv would be pretty much about the same, I wouldn't worry too much. The weight here was 2kg, so probably would have been about 2.3kg with the extra bits. Can still carry a lot more than that though.
@@iforce2d Thanks for the expeditious reply! I'm trying to make an open source mapping and precision agriculture with this model with a pixhawk 5x as the autopilot. I'm basing it off a few videos I've found on youtube along with a few builds from some papers on google scholar. It's going to be about 3.2kg thus far with a 10000 mah battery and with the cnc aluminum motor mount connected directly to the motor to aid in heat dispersion and improved strength. One paper had an UAW at 3.5kg so hopefully the CG isn't too far off with my parts list. I would also like to use an airspeed sensor and a time of flight sensor on the bottom to improve its capability with automated mission execution. If anyone is reading this and orders the 700kv motor and spinner listed in the video, they will need a 6mm to 8mm reducer bushing for the bolt on prop adapter that comes with the motor or buy a 6mm yoke from mayatech. The yoke that arrives with the motor has a center hole width of 8mm.
Well, I have subscribed to you to follow your CNC build series... Then I saw the "Noobs Guide to Quadcopters" series and I thought: Ok, I'm not gonna build one I'm just gonna watch the series... I have resisted as well, for about 3~4 months and here I'm now, building two, one hexacopter S550 and a Rooster for freestyle (parts are still arriving)... I felt empowered when I saw the noobs guide HAHA
Because it's a lower KV motor, could you also prop-up on it a bit to get some more oomph out of it? Bump it up a pitch level, or go to a 14 inch instead of the 12? I've always been curious too what kind of efficiency you could get out of a platform like this with a big, low KV, pancake motor with giant 16 or 17 inch prop, something like the RCTimer 5010 360KV or 260KV...
I use that strokes enamel paint as well, only need a single coat and looks great, but as you mentioned it peels off easily. Need to come up witha pre-coat prep to increase its adhesion.
Looks like a nice wing but 2Kg with almost nothing in it ? Seems heavy to me. Be aware that those Hobbywing BECs have OCP making the voltage collapse around 3.5A. I had issues using digital servos with peak currents making the BEC voltage go below the control voltage and making the servos twitch badly.
Hey, here is a tip for sticking the hood down. You could use two hooked side velcros and stick them on the two sides and bridge the gap with a single strip of soft velcro (connecting the two hooked velcros). That way you wont rip the paint each time you open and close it.
I forgot to mention that it came slightly deformed in shipping, I managed to fix the worst of it when I glued the spar in, but have ended up with the main canopy lifting up a lot at the front. I think anything less than tape or glue would not be strong enough to hold it down.
Did you check to see if your CG have changed in one of the times you have landed? I mean that constant problem could have been a battery that moved to far forth ... or may be that or those broken hinge points on the control surfaces where flexing way beyond the capabilities of the servos to handle it!! I do have a great deal of good envy for you... may I ask you where do you live?? I don't need your address! Just want to know if you are here in the states!!
I forgot to mention that it came slightly deformed in shipping, I managed to fix the worst of it when I glued the spar in, but have ended up with the main canopy lifting up a lot at the front. I think anything less than tape or glue would not be strong enough to hold it down.
A bungee takes all the launch anxiety away. Especially when you put in the Pixhawk. Auto launches with a bungee are really easy. BTW did not see you balance the plane - looks like the CG could move a bit forward.
May I suggest you reduce the mechanical leverage to be able to utilise full radio resolution. artificially tuning out servo travel on the radio is a poor practise all too common these days. Bruce has a good video on old school control surface tuning. To tune out the adverse yaw issue try rotating the servo horn one notch off center to give less up aileron vs down aileron travel commonly call aileron differential.
Rob B, a quick correction if I may; you have aileron differential round the wrong way... To counter adverse yaw, you want LESS downgoing elevon and/or more upgoing. It's the downgoing elevon that creates more induced drag due to the increased lift being generated. If you want drag at all, you want it from the upgoing elevon (downgoing wing) so you get pro-roll yaw. A lot of the problem is the fact that a flying wing like this has a very short moment arm (distance from C of G to the fin) so has relatively little 'tail volume' which would damp the yaw. You are right that it's adverse yaw though.
I used to fly RC years ago. Still have the planes, but most equipment and batteries are out dated. I built a flying wing and it was a tank. Flew extremely fast and it was difficult to handle. First flight it was tail heavy because I built a nice motor mount. CG wasn't off by much, but man did it affect the handling. Your flight reminded me of my 1st flight. I found your channel from the CNC which I am looking to build. I really enjoyed your video. Back in 2002 I mounted wireless down links on my planes. I thought it was going to be the next big thing and then drones took over. The FAA scared me right out of flying with their rules and regs. I really miss it. Over voltage probably popped a cap inside the receiver or servos.
Expensive wing. I built my own out of epp and laminated - indestructible. EPO will shatter to pieces. Seems tail heavy. What an expensive motor. I couldn't afford to fly in US.
It flies a lot slower than you think it will....If it was mine, I would fit a nice pair of full size proper analogue servos in those wings...it's pointless fitting such tiny digitals into such a large bird. The FC will be smoother with them too. Surprised that NTM motor is running so smooth on that god awful collet hub, very unsuitable, especially on a folder prop. Id cut those Elevons off with a sharp knife and re-hang them using glass strand tape. What is your weather like in July...?...it looks like a Summer's day there, we are freezing our asses off here, as usual.
As it says at 3:09, they are analog - but to be sure, probably a bit on the small side for this plane. What kind of hub should it have? July is much more pleasant, 8-12 deg C but unfortunately a bit more rainy than summer.
Regarding the speed: 700KV * 4 cells * 4 volts per cell * 6.5 inches of pitch has a max theoretical pitch speed of about 110 kmh or 70 mph. That's in a perfect world with no drag, voltage drop, etc. If you want more speed, you need more KV :) If the plane is really slippery, I'd try a much smaller prop with a lot higher KV motor.
ouch. Sounds like it might have been a bit tail heavy. This plane can fly slow enough that you can probably throw and try gliding with no throttle, to check how it behaves before using motor power
NOT ONLY THE BEST DELTAWING OUT THERE WITH LOTS OF SPACE(BUT) SO DURABLE THAT 4S IS A MUST(I FLY WITH TATTU 4S 9AMPS 15C,MORE WIDTH LESS HEIGHT)WITH SUNNYSKY MOTOR I CAN FLY WITH 90+ KM(56 MILES)FROM 350 FEET WITH 10 DEAGRES DIVING TO 130 FEET I FLY WITH 140KM(WITH STRENGTHENING FILM AND SOME CARBON STICKS,NOTHING CRAZY)I CAN DIVE FASTER BUT FOR THIS PROJECT,NO REASON FO MORE THAN 140KM DIVING.SIMPLISITY WORKS KEEP IT THAT WAY CAPTAIN.YOU ARE NOT GONNA LOOSE.P.S BEAUTIFUL AND CLEAN JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do a lot programming too in C++ for research with no pay and do computer repair whereby the business is down to the drain and no repair business no matter how hard I stick my advertisement and worst of all the competitor comes at the night time to take away my banner and they modified my a4 advertisement and make changes in the QR code and website and phone then he becomes a Canadian gradate and have full course in repair computer qualification (up to chip level). You must be working in company at the city as programmer in NZ. I have visited NZ before, I am British citizen. Sheep outnumbers than human in NZ.
Excellent, that pitchiness was a worry with all your backyard obstacles. I was thinking servo centering or sloppy linkages? Now what plane will I make you buy next?
I replaced the receiver and put the CG forward a little, tried some more flights today and it was just spot on. Purrs around nice and smooth at half throttle, hands-off the sticks for a good 20 seconds or so sometimes.
@@iforce2d did you determine the servo chattering...I have 4 flysky receivers that will do the same thing??? I just switch off them back on as you did and they work OK
but it does bother me too somewhat
@@madpropsracing I think it's the problem of the radio transmitter, and not the receiver. Mine does the same (FS-i6 with the FlyPlus Beta firmware). Fortunately it comes up immediately after turning it on.
You bought it to reward yourself, for managing to resist buying it :D
Thank you very much for your useful videos, and I really respect your hard working hands. Appreciated
That place is so peaceful, must be awesome to take a nice nap under the trees.
The sound of the crickets is a plus!
It's an illusion. There is a bear, snake or policeman hiding in each of those trees. Beware
Like the prop/engine noise, sounds really nice.
Like the Opterra its ment for long distance, long flight time not speed. Alot of people who get these huge wings that fly race wings feel their to slow and over power them. The Opterra is 2m doesnt wobble when loaded and I only use 2x4500mah 3s batteries and fly forever.
O I find the CG wrong on mine Opterra, wings look exact. Soon as I changed it no trim needed. Play with CG and lots of throw glide tests first. A good chuck just to make sure. Hinge tape is what Ive learnt with my large planes. I stupidly had to learn the hard way that starting out big isnt how to do it in RC both my first planes have 2m wings the FPV Raptor 2 and Opterra.
Love the channel killing it.
Did you end up using a 700 kv motor or an 840? You mention in the FX79 buffalo mods/tips that you used about an 800 kv motor and I want to make sure. The turnigy 700 and the folding propeller spinner didn't come with a necessary attachments to affix the spinner so I'll have to get a bushing or an adapter to get it working.
Another question, did you ever determine the all up weight of the buffalo with the 10000mah and mods?
Thanks in advance
700kv or 800kv would be pretty much about the same, I wouldn't worry too much. The weight here was 2kg, so probably would have been about 2.3kg with the extra bits. Can still carry a lot more than that though.
@@iforce2d Thanks for the expeditious reply! I'm trying to make an open source mapping and precision agriculture with this model with a pixhawk 5x as the autopilot. I'm basing it off a few videos I've found on youtube along with a few builds from some papers on google scholar. It's going to be about 3.2kg thus far with a 10000 mah battery and with the cnc aluminum motor mount connected directly to the motor to aid in heat dispersion and improved strength. One paper had an UAW at 3.5kg so hopefully the CG isn't too far off with my parts list. I would also like to use an airspeed sensor and a time of flight sensor on the bottom to improve its capability with automated mission execution.
If anyone is reading this and orders the 700kv motor and spinner listed in the video, they will need a 6mm to 8mm reducer bushing for the bolt on prop adapter that comes with the motor or buy a 6mm yoke from mayatech. The yoke that arrives with the motor has a center hole width of 8mm.
Well, I have subscribed to you to follow your CNC build series... Then I saw the "Noobs Guide to Quadcopters" series and I thought: Ok, I'm not gonna build one I'm just gonna watch the series... I have resisted as well, for about 3~4 months and here I'm now, building two, one hexacopter S550 and a Rooster for freestyle (parts are still arriving)... I felt empowered when I saw the noobs guide HAHA
Yeah I find watching much more affordable
Love the glide on this thing.
Great video. My Zeta came without motor mounts. A friend of mine 3d printed a replacement. Works a charm!
Your Quadcopter series is excellent. Very detailed & informative. I am going to build one under 250 grams..))
Because it's a lower KV motor, could you also prop-up on it a bit to get some more oomph out of it? Bump it up a pitch level, or go to a 14 inch instead of the 12? I've always been curious too what kind of efficiency you could get out of a platform like this with a big, low KV, pancake motor with giant 16 or 17 inch prop, something like the RCTimer 5010 360KV or 260KV...
Chris. Can you program the Flysky for motor break? This would help somewhat. Nice flying though.
I use that strokes enamel paint as well, only need a single coat and looks great, but as you mentioned it peels off easily. Need to come up witha pre-coat prep to increase its adhesion.
Looks like a nice wing but 2Kg with almost nothing in it ? Seems heavy to me. Be aware that those Hobbywing BECs have OCP making the voltage collapse around 3.5A. I had issues using digital servos with peak currents making the BEC voltage go below the control voltage and making the servos twitch badly.
Hey, here is a tip for sticking the hood down. You could use two hooked side velcros and stick them on the two sides and bridge the gap with a single strip of soft velcro (connecting the two hooked velcros). That way you wont rip the paint each time you open and close it.
not a bad idea with the velcro. another method would be small but strong neodymium magnets glued into the foam.
I forgot to mention that it came slightly deformed in shipping, I managed to fix the worst of it when I glued the spar in, but have ended up with the main canopy lifting up a lot at the front. I think anything less than tape or glue would not be strong enough to hold it down.
what rates do you reckon for a maiden flight
Did you check to see if your CG have changed in one of the times you have landed? I mean that constant problem could have been a battery that moved to far forth ... or may be that or those broken hinge points on the control surfaces where flexing way beyond the capabilities of the servos to handle it!! I do have a great deal of good envy for you... may I ask you where do you live?? I don't need your address! Just want to know if you are here in the states!!
Nice, liking the colour scheme, i would make tape hinges for the control surfaces
Hahaha. You too!! I ordered one a week and a half ago. :)
How far back from the leading edge on the wing join is your centre of gravity?
At the manufacturer recommended point, where there are little bumps in the foam. Or a little dimples maybe... I forget.
@@iforce2d ok thanks
Bit more weight on the nose maybe, also thrust angle?
I’m tempted to get this wing but now it’s gonna cost almost $300 🇺🇸 to ship it to my door lol maybe I’ll wait for shipping to go down haha 😂
It looks magnificent and onboard footage is stable and pleasant to watch.
Use magnets to close that lid, looks like holes are already there.
I forgot to mention that it came slightly deformed in shipping, I managed to fix the worst of it when I glued the spar in, but have ended up with the main canopy lifting up a lot at the front. I think anything less than tape or glue would not be strong enough to hold it down.
A bungee takes all the launch anxiety away. Especially when you put in the Pixhawk. Auto launches with a bungee are really easy. BTW did not see you balance the plane - looks like the CG could move a bit forward.
Hi , could you tell me were you got the alloy spinner from please , many thanks , Scott .
screenshot is shown at 1:58
iforce2d Thank you, missed that .....
2K epoxy paint works well on EPO. Just rough up the foam with 320. You can thin the paint with acetone. Incredible stuff epoxy paint.
Great flight!!!
maybe you are just getting too used to flying with arduplane?? :P Just kidding! Love your vids. Seems that HK has discontinued this airframe?
As soon as I saw this video pop up I went, "Ah ha, so that's what the Arduplane was for" ;-p
Beautiful location for a long range flight,but those ghost wires all over the place eeeek :-)
Looks like the CoG is too far back?
May I suggest you reduce the mechanical leverage to be able to utilise full radio resolution. artificially tuning out servo travel on the radio is a poor practise all too common these days. Bruce has a good video on old school control surface tuning. To tune out the adverse yaw issue try rotating the servo horn one notch off center to give less up aileron vs down aileron travel commonly call aileron differential.
Rob B, a quick correction if I may; you have aileron differential round the wrong way... To counter adverse yaw, you want LESS downgoing elevon and/or more upgoing. It's the downgoing elevon that creates more induced drag due to the increased lift being generated. If you want drag at all, you want it from the upgoing elevon (downgoing wing) so you get pro-roll yaw. A lot of the problem is the fact that a flying wing like this has a very short moment arm (distance from C of G to the fin) so has relatively little 'tail volume' which would damp the yaw. You are right that it's adverse yaw though.
Sounds like prop is slightly over pitched or needs one inch smaller diameter
Nice 👍🏾
Laminate the painted parts. It will seal in the paint.
Maybe it needs the good old cello tape hinge ? ..)
Is it tail heavy?
It may have been a little. I didn't check the CG again after that first flight. The receiver was definitely doing something weird too though.
I used to fly RC years ago. Still have the planes, but most equipment and batteries are out dated. I built a flying wing and it was a tank. Flew extremely fast and it was difficult to handle. First flight it was tail heavy because I built a nice motor mount. CG wasn't off by much, but man did it affect the handling. Your flight reminded me of my 1st flight. I found your channel from the CNC which I am looking to build. I really enjoyed your video. Back in 2002 I mounted wireless down links on my planes. I thought it was going to be the next big thing and then drones took over. The FAA scared me right out of flying with their rules and regs. I really miss it. Over voltage probably popped a cap inside the receiver or servos.
Think it's time to get and fly a collective pitch helicopter, be great to get your thoughts on them....
Expensive wing. I built my own out of epp and laminated - indestructible. EPO will shatter to pieces. Seems tail heavy. What an expensive motor. I couldn't afford to fly in US.
Face reveal haha great video.
It flies a lot slower than you think it will....If it was mine, I would fit a nice pair of full size proper analogue servos in those wings...it's pointless fitting such tiny digitals into such a large bird.
The FC will be smoother with them too.
Surprised that NTM motor is running so smooth on that god awful collet hub, very unsuitable, especially on a folder prop.
Id cut those Elevons off with a sharp knife and re-hang them using glass strand tape.
What is your weather like in July...?...it looks like a Summer's day there, we are freezing our asses off here, as usual.
As it says at 3:09, they are analog - but to be sure, probably a bit on the small side for this plane. What kind of hub should it have? July is much more pleasant, 8-12 deg C but unfortunately a bit more rainy than summer.
This craft would be great with ardupilot.
Regarding the speed: 700KV * 4 cells * 4 volts per cell * 6.5 inches of pitch has a max theoretical pitch speed of about 110 kmh or 70 mph. That's in a perfect world with no drag, voltage drop, etc. If you want more speed, you need more KV :) If the plane is really slippery, I'd try a much smaller prop with a lot higher KV motor.
had a huge crash on my maiden. tried going full throttle and it just dove straight into the ground
ouch. Sounds like it might have been a bit tail heavy. This plane can fly slow enough that you can probably throw and try gliding with no throttle, to check how it behaves before using motor power
Cooked receiver
NOT ONLY THE BEST DELTAWING OUT THERE WITH LOTS OF SPACE(BUT) SO DURABLE THAT 4S IS A MUST(I FLY WITH TATTU 4S 9AMPS 15C,MORE WIDTH LESS HEIGHT)WITH SUNNYSKY MOTOR I CAN FLY WITH 90+ KM(56 MILES)FROM 350 FEET WITH 10 DEAGRES DIVING TO 130 FEET I FLY WITH 140KM(WITH STRENGTHENING FILM AND SOME CARBON STICKS,NOTHING CRAZY)I CAN DIVE FASTER BUT FOR THIS PROJECT,NO REASON FO MORE THAN 140KM DIVING.SIMPLISITY WORKS KEEP IT THAT WAY CAPTAIN.YOU ARE NOT GONNA LOOSE.P.S BEAUTIFUL AND CLEAN JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How to make money? Are you keeping sheeps?
I'm a computer programmer
I do a lot programming too in C++ for research with no pay and do computer repair whereby the business is down to the drain and no repair business no matter how hard I stick my advertisement and worst of all the competitor comes at the night time to take away my banner and they modified my a4 advertisement and make changes in the QR code and website and phone then he becomes a Canadian gradate and have full course in repair computer qualification (up to chip level). You must be working in company at the city as programmer in NZ. I have visited NZ before, I am British citizen. Sheep outnumbers than human in NZ.
He is a cow programmer and milks them for all they have got.....
@@yxhankun Yes the sheep are very smart there and are going to take over soon
just put a 14x8 prop on this and you are golden! with your 3548-700kv: 10amps@50%throttle and 50Kph cruise. reference here: (www.ecalc.ch) cheers
Try 4s on that thing
This was 4S
iforce2d you can try 5s or 6s now to get moar power !
@@iforce2d heh lucky you.. no shortage of free advice