Hmmm... the rods block the way to the lens, if you want to focus manually. Also zoom. There is a Smallrig part to connect the FTZ adapter. If you use it, the camera sits tighter in the cage and there is less stress on the mount. If you grip the top handle with the right hand the mic is in the way. I'd probably grip the mic instead of the handle... Also the mic is very close to the lens, so you pick up a lot of autofocus noise. Why don't you power the Ninja over the V-Mount batterie? Instead the huge NP-F puts stress on the mini magic arm.
Mahalo for the feedback! Iʻve since upgraded the rig to something muuuch more efficient. I also have my Z9 that iʻve made a rig for. Iʻll be making a new video about both of them soon! Pretty much all of the things you stated were taken care of lol.
Thanks man! I’ve been looking into it, and I’ll probably pick up something like it sometime soon! On longer shoots, the Sony NP batteries take waaay longer to charge than my Nikon batteries do, but I rarely shoot content like that. But I’m always down to try new ideas and see how they perform! 🙌🏽
Unfortunately, that’s an issue with the Atomos monitor. You can’t record super slowmo with it. You can only do it internally on the Z6. Im not 100% sure if you can even do it on the Z9 or Z8. Or even if monitors will allow you to do that. You’ll just have to use the camera screen for now.
Yes, because the Z-Mount lenses are made for the Z cameras. So the auto focus on those lenses are going to be better than the old 24-70mm WITH the F-mount adapter.
I have a pretty simular rig...now just need a Monitor. Rly wants the Atomos Ninja V, but pretty expensive here. Wounder if I should try the Feelworld F6 Plus. Thank you for a good video!
I know I'm 9 months late on this one but I felt I should chime in for future readers of this thread. The Feelworld F6 Plus and the Ninja V are literally 2 different products. They both have a monitor but the Atomos Ninja V is also a recorder. And the only way to tap into the Nikon z6 10bit NLOG ProRes Codec and unlimited recording is via an external monitor. For many the internal 8bit high compression rate will be fine. But the camera is leaps and bounds better when recording into the Ninja V. I know, I've done tests. I don't use it for video all the time since I have a Pocket 6k and 4k for that but when I need FF and autofocus (especially handy for interviews) I'll use my Z6 and Z7 piped into an Atomos recorder. I have the Atomos Ninja V for one and the Atomos Shogun for the other. Great setup!
Hi again, I have another question. I see at 2:17 you used only one screw to attach the baseplate 1674 to the cage. I see cage has 6 (six!) 1/4" holes. I wonder if you could use more screws to attach your baseplate 1674 to the cage or it's not possible? Also please tell if one screw is enough to protect cage from rotating on the baseplate? Thank you!
I usually just use one, and it stays pretty snug. I’m not flailing around the rig, I tend to keep it close to my body and on a tripod. But you’re more than welcome to put and many screws as you’d like! 🙌🏽
Thank you for this video! I'm looking to build a rig for my z6ii and I'm in the process of getting info. This video was pretty useful to me! I have few quick questions: 1) Does your mic pics noticeable noise from Ninja V? 2) Is it still comfortable to adjust circular ND filter? I see it's sitting deep inside matte box. 3) I see you didn't install any handles. Please tell if you don't need handles and everything is great without it? Thanks in advance!
Glad the video could help yah out! It can pick up the fan when I shoot for more than an hour at a time. But since I usually use this setup for when I’m running around and what not, it’s difficult to hear it in the end product. The ND filter is really easy to adjust, too. Just like in the video when I mounted it, you just stick your hand inside and adjust it till you reach your desired look. And I do have a right-side wooden handle that I sometimes mount to the rig, but it gets in the way when I try to adjust the ISO or shutter when using the physical buttons and Nobs. I’m usually fine with just the top handle and griping the side of the camera. Hope these answered your questions ! 🙌🏽🙌🏽
@@noathecrip Yeah, thank you for your answers! I was thinking to take my future rig outdoors to shoot cars at car meets and car shows. I assume Ninja V may overheat sooner than expected when it's pretty hot outside or at least it may raise its fan RPM. That's why I still didn't decide if I need Ninja V or if Shinobi is fine too. I don't plan to shoot videos in raw. And as for me, I don't do color grading at all at this moment, except maybe editing some basic stuff like brightness etc.
@@NoWheelDrive Gotcha! I don’t shoot RAW, but I definitely use the Ninja V for the 10-bit N-LOG whenever I can. If you’re shooting videos for car stuff, I’d highly recommend some kind of stabilizer for smooth shots. And if you don’t have one; you can use a tripod or monopod and turn the rig upside down to create a makeshift gimbal!
@@noathecrip Thank you!! I see someone sells DJI RSC2 with Ninja V on FB not far from me. It's a used kit but the asking price is $1000 which is about $400 less than the cost of all brand new items purchased separately. I may try to get it. I hope RSC2 is OK for z6ii + nikkor z lens like 14-24 or 24-70.
@@NoWheelDrive niiice! That’ll be a steal! If you own the original 24-70, you’ll need to get some counterweights for them. Check out SmallRig, and they have counterweights for lens-heave camera setups that want to be on a brushless gimbal. Best of luck!
Of course! So I stayed with the Z6 because there are subtle upgrades to the Z6ii, that I couldn't really see the need to upgrade. I don't have any native Z glass, so the improved auto focus wouldn't really be of much help to me. Other than that; The Z6 is a bit cheaper than the Z6ii and theyʻre both pretty much identical. Hope that explains everything!
So I just use the KNF ND filters, they’re inexpensive and they’re on Amazon. And if you need the step up ring, just look up what I put on the screen and you should be just fine. I also use Prism Lens FX for all of my other cool filters for shots. I talk about them more in another video I posted.
So that motor sound is a physical part of the lens. I’m assuming you’re also using an F-Mount lens. That’s the crappy thing about the older Nikon lenses. The new Z lenses don’t have that loud autofocus sound. The only way to not have it at all would be to manual focus the lens by hand or with a follow focusing system. Hopefully that answered your question!
A hint: use smaler batteries then the rig gets lighter. Why use batteries that lasts longer then necassary? Too heavy. Like my iPhone I can charge every night. Second someone allready said is to use only one battery for all.
Thank you for the tips; I’ll make sure to have them in the description as well for future videos! I recently just got an AC to D-Tap cable for the atomos, so now I have both the camera and monitor running on one battery. Because the way physics works, a heavier rig will have less sway and put in settings with lots of movement this giving you more natural looking motions. Rather than a small camera that has a hard time stabilizing while moving around. This is also my cinema rig, it’s meant for shooting on set where I won’t be traveling far, hence why I can have my rig larger than just the camera body and lens itself. Hope this helps clear up some things 🤙🏽
Hmmm...
the rods block the way to the lens, if you want to focus manually. Also zoom. There is a Smallrig part to connect the FTZ adapter. If you use it, the camera sits tighter in the cage and there is less stress on the mount. If you grip the top handle with the right hand the mic is in the way. I'd probably grip the mic instead of the handle... Also the mic is very close to the lens, so you pick up a lot of autofocus noise. Why don't you power the Ninja over the V-Mount batterie? Instead the huge NP-F puts stress on the mini magic arm.
Mahalo for the feedback! Iʻve since upgraded the rig to something muuuch more efficient. I also have my Z9 that iʻve made a rig for. Iʻll be making a new video about both of them soon! Pretty much all of the things you stated were taken care of lol.
why not power up the atomos with the v mount battery and reduce the weight a little more? love the setup
Thanks man! I’ve been looking into it, and I’ll probably pick up something like it sometime soon! On longer shoots, the Sony NP batteries take waaay longer to charge than my Nikon batteries do, but I rarely shoot content like that. But I’m always down to try new ideas and see how they perform! 🙌🏽
I have 2 z6 love em... only issue is can't use external monitor when filming at 120 fps
Unfortunately, that’s an issue with the Atomos monitor. You can’t record super slowmo with it. You can only do it internally on the Z6. Im not 100% sure if you can even do it on the Z9 or Z8. Or even if monitors will allow you to do that. You’ll just have to use the camera screen for now.
this is one of the best video on nikon z rigs. thank u bro.
Of course, my man! I love sharing what I’m passionate about 😊🙌🏽
Do you think the new Nikon 24-70 F4s lens would be better for AF than the older F mount 24-70
Yes, because the Z-Mount lenses are made for the Z cameras. So the auto focus on those lenses are going to be better than the old 24-70mm WITH the F-mount adapter.
@@noathecrip couldn't agree more.
I have a pretty simular rig...now just need a Monitor. Rly wants the Atomos Ninja V, but pretty expensive here.
Wounder if I should try the Feelworld F6 Plus. Thank you for a good video!
Aye, nice! I actually financed the atomos, so I’m slowly paying it off. That’s how I usually get my gear.
I know I'm 9 months late on this one but I felt I should chime in for future readers of this thread. The Feelworld F6 Plus and the Ninja V are literally 2 different products. They both have a monitor but the Atomos Ninja V is also a recorder. And the only way to tap into the Nikon z6 10bit NLOG ProRes Codec and unlimited recording is via an external monitor. For many the internal 8bit high compression rate will be fine. But the camera is leaps and bounds better when recording into the Ninja V. I know, I've done tests. I don't use it for video all the time since I have a Pocket 6k and 4k for that but when I need FF and autofocus (especially handy for interviews) I'll use my Z6 and Z7 piped into an Atomos recorder. I have the Atomos Ninja V for one and the Atomos Shogun for the other. Great setup!
Hi again, I have another question. I see at 2:17 you used only one screw to attach the baseplate 1674 to the cage. I see cage has 6 (six!) 1/4" holes. I wonder if you could use more screws to attach your baseplate 1674 to the cage or it's not possible? Also please tell if one screw is enough to protect cage from rotating on the baseplate? Thank you!
I usually just use one, and it stays pretty snug. I’m not flailing around the rig, I tend to keep it close to my body and on a tripod. But you’re more than welcome to put and many screws as you’d like! 🙌🏽
Thank you for this video! I'm looking to build a rig for my z6ii and I'm in the process of getting info. This video was pretty useful to me! I have few quick questions: 1) Does your mic pics noticeable noise from Ninja V? 2) Is it still comfortable to adjust circular ND filter? I see it's sitting deep inside matte box. 3) I see you didn't install any handles. Please tell if you don't need handles and everything is great without it? Thanks in advance!
Glad the video could help yah out! It can pick up the fan when I shoot for more than an hour at a time. But since I usually use this setup for when I’m running around and what not, it’s difficult to hear it in the end product. The ND filter is really easy to adjust, too. Just like in the video when I mounted it, you just stick your hand inside and adjust it till you reach your desired look. And I do have a right-side wooden handle that I sometimes mount to the rig, but it gets in the way when I try to adjust the ISO or shutter when using the physical buttons and Nobs. I’m usually fine with just the top handle and griping the side of the camera. Hope these answered your questions ! 🙌🏽🙌🏽
@@noathecrip Yeah, thank you for your answers! I was thinking to take my future rig outdoors to shoot cars at car meets and car shows. I assume Ninja V may overheat sooner than expected when it's pretty hot outside or at least it may raise its fan RPM. That's why I still didn't decide if I need Ninja V or if Shinobi is fine too. I don't plan to shoot videos in raw. And as for me, I don't do color grading at all at this moment, except maybe editing some basic stuff like brightness etc.
@@NoWheelDrive Gotcha! I don’t shoot RAW, but I definitely use the Ninja V for the 10-bit N-LOG whenever I can. If you’re shooting videos for car stuff, I’d highly recommend some kind of stabilizer for smooth shots. And if you don’t have one; you can use a tripod or monopod and turn the rig upside down to create a makeshift gimbal!
@@noathecrip Thank you!! I see someone sells DJI RSC2 with Ninja V on FB not far from me. It's a used kit but the asking price is $1000 which is about $400 less than the cost of all brand new items purchased separately. I may try to get it. I hope RSC2 is OK for z6ii + nikkor z lens like 14-24 or 24-70.
@@NoWheelDrive niiice! That’ll be a steal! If you own the original 24-70, you’ll need to get some counterweights for them. Check out SmallRig, and they have counterweights for lens-heave camera setups that want to be on a brushless gimbal. Best of luck!
You said you were going to explain why you opted for the z6 instead of the z6ii, but you didn't come around to that in the video. Could you tell me?
Of course! So I stayed with the Z6 because there are subtle upgrades to the Z6ii, that I couldn't really see the need to upgrade. I don't have any native Z glass, so the improved auto focus wouldn't really be of much help to me. Other than that; The Z6 is a bit cheaper than the Z6ii and theyʻre both pretty much identical. Hope that explains everything!
Nice rig bro! What filters are you using? NDs etc
So I just use the KNF ND filters, they’re inexpensive and they’re on Amazon. And if you need the step up ring, just look up what I put on the screen and you should be just fine. I also use Prism Lens FX for all of my other cool filters for shots. I talk about them more in another video I posted.
how do you get rid of the annoying sound of autofocus motor in the lense recorded in the Rode mic with this setup?
So that motor sound is a physical part of the lens. I’m assuming you’re also using an F-Mount lens. That’s the crappy thing about the older Nikon lenses. The new Z lenses don’t have that loud autofocus sound. The only way to not have it at all would be to manual focus the lens by hand or with a follow focusing system. Hopefully that answered your question!
A hint: use smaler batteries then the rig gets lighter. Why use batteries that lasts longer then necassary? Too heavy. Like my iPhone I can charge every night. Second someone allready said is to use only one battery for all.
Third: pros have all parts in the description.
Thank you for the tips; I’ll make sure to have them in the description as well for future videos! I recently just got an AC to D-Tap cable for the atomos, so now I have both the camera and monitor running on one battery. Because the way physics works, a heavier rig will have less sway and put in settings with lots of movement this giving you more natural looking motions. Rather than a small camera that has a hard time stabilizing while moving around. This is also my cinema rig, it’s meant for shooting on set where I won’t be traveling far, hence why I can have my rig larger than just the camera body and lens itself. Hope this helps clear up some things 🤙🏽