That’s Lily Munster, Yvonne DeCarlo!! She was a beautiful woman in her day! I just finished watching the video. You did what you could with it. Maybe someone will have an idea to help you with this one. Not everything is a perfect winner, but never give up. We’ll see you get this one up and running again. Tom
Yup! I'm kinda thinking she played Lily Munster later in her career. I already have an idea with this one. I mentioned what I'm doing in the video. Just waiting for some new parts to arrive. :-)
Use ONE, Two, or Three of the neo-magnets, then wrap with foil until it matches the original magnet size... As you tested the neo's, one was stronger than the original. Instead of thinking outside the box, reshape the box to suit your thoughts. John
Super video, Ron! A few things on that Athearn, I also have an Athearn Santa Fe 4-6-2, but it does not have that gear box. The motor on mine has a worm gear, and the rear most driver has the gear. So, I'm guessing one is early, and one is later. The tender was also the pick up for power on this one, and it had plastic drivers. The electrical pick up from the tender was terrible, with that style wheel set, I first replaced the wheels with nickel silver ones from one of the parts diesels I had. It still had poor electrical pickup, and after rooting around my junk drawer, I modified a set of Mantua drivers and brass tubing for the axles. It runs great now! I can email you pictures if you want.
sounds like a pretty cool loco you've made now. I like to keep these loco's as stock as possible because if/when they get sold I want to let the new owner do the custom stuff to them. Thanks for the cool idea and the offer :-)
Hello S.F. Bob. I hate it when I run outs parts when making a vid. Got lots of parts here. Sometimes dont have the right part. Yes this one will run, not giving up on her
Well, that was some journey you took us on. You have the right magnets just use steel plate to take up any space between the two poles after placing as many magnets as possible that will fit and Bob's your uncle. That boot brush method you came up with works a treat and I'll have to get me one. Shame you have to keep that light, but the original label is worth money. You will get that running but something has to be missing to hold that gearbox in one position because it doesn't make sense like it is. I have to give you a "hats off" for disassembling and reassembling this difficult locomotive. As far as the model is concerned, I knew she looked familiar but who she was eluded me so I was surprised. Great repair and video, Jersey Bill
Hello Jersey Bill. The magnets I have are too big to install into the motor frame. The new ones I ordered will fit much better. something to hold the gearbox is in the plans as well. Its a nice looking loco, just cant believe Athearn could not get the drive any better than that and Ol' Erv said "no more steamers". Mantua had better drives than Athearn. Hard to believe.
I always wondered why you rarely see an Athearn steam loco on the bay. Now i know! As always, Thanks for the history lessons, i really enjoy that in your videos! 👍
If it hadn’t been for companies like Athern and MDC Roundhouse and Mantua/Tyco many of us wouldn’t be in the hobby today. Bring back the “blue box kits”
Well, how interesting. Like you, I have no idea why some magnets fade away as soon as take them out. I am looking forward to seeing how the neodymium magnets go because I have seen them used as replacements but don't know how well they work. That's an interesting locomotive too. 😊👍
Hey Ron u make some awesome videos. My go to watch. Thanks. A FYI. There is a conductive light oil available. Its called Inox. MX3FG. Its even good to use for cleaning track. Try it you'll like it.
Lionel back in the day used Athearn stuff re-branded Lionel. This was originally designed for Lionel, but there was so many problems with it it took 3 years extra to bring to market.
This is much different than the early Lionel HO pacifics. Lionel used a bull gear to a wormed jack shaft, to the driven axel. Instead of a floating gearbox on the axel as Athearn used. Good video, and I'm looking forward to the continuation of this repair.
Every time I attempt to repair a golden oldie like this something always breaks and seems impossible to fix or reassemble. I have never been so nervous watching a video ! 🤣🤣. You had me on the edge of my seat every time you said I hope this isn’t a bad idea ! I’m a risk taker but you seem to just do it fearlessly 😳. You encourage me to risk more. I have over 300 classic engines I am working through their service and repair. I have trouble identifying what brand they are sometimes because they aren’t always well marked. It’s a labour of love 😊
Glad you are getting all your loco's fixed. working on them is just practice. the more you do the better you get. Also I always think. it's broken now how much worse can I make it?
I would look into that gearbox movement for sure, it very well could be binding up, those driveshaft angles didnt look too happy at times lol nice job as always Ron i had no clue these existed
Kids put those together back in the day, you say. Kids must have been more resourceful back in the day. Wait a minute, I'm one of those kids. Are you sure kids built those?
I built these loco kits when I was a kid...about 9,10,11. My 1st one was a Mantua 040 switcher, then The General (boy that was a bear), then Athern bigger steam. I couldn't master riveting the valve gear do I deleted it from the build. First valve gear I ever successfully built from a Bowser kit (K1 Pacific) was at age 30.
Great video Ron 👍. . Well I must confess I didn't know they did steam loco's. . Definitely not seen one over here in the UK. . . Though I will be looking now 🧐
To help your algorithm I'll leave a comment. I'm a firm believer in neodymium magnets. I've replaced all the magnets in all my Pittman motors and it really helped a whole bunch. Current draw is less and performance is beyond belief. I've got you a bunch of HO scale engine lenses and light bulbs for 12 volt. Both screw in and the other kind. Cheers from eastern TN
The tender wheels are pretty much the same ones for the athearn blue box RDC. Northwest Shortline has new made nickel silver wheels as replacements for them , if need be.
Waiting to see this loco running. I have faith that you will get it running right. Evonne Dicarlo was also in the John Wayne movie "McClintock'. Thanks for sharing
Super. My railroad decided that the 4-6-2 Heavy Pacific with a long haul tender would be the largest steamer in operation, and I ended up with a fleet of Mantua/Tyco Pacifics after comparing every 4-6-2 available back then. The first bought new Mantua/Tyco Pacific was $19.95, the last was $32.95, all approaching or passing fifty years of service on my railroad now, while the Athearn model, still available at the hobby shop, was slightly higher priced. There are no articulated or Mallet locos on my pike, although friends always bring their Big Boys and Challengers over to operate on my line. (Maybe I will get a 2-6-6-2 Sierra someday.) The Athearn loco was adequate, but passed over because of the standard tender, and after your video, I think I made the right choice for a number of reasons. Good video. P.S. Yvonne De Carlo. I am a big Munsters fan, but she was in a number of shows. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Look for a model of the D&SL 2-6-6-0 “Mallet” it would be a nice articulated to add to your railroad. Although I have never seen a plastic model of this particular locomotive.
Hey Pete! Thanks so much for sending me this Wonderfull piece of Athearn History. I believe I killed that magnet by removing it. Better magnet is on the way. Update to follow :-)
Yep, adding the neo magnets will definitely make'er run. Did the same thing with those old Lionel plastic HO's. I've never seen the Athearn steam engine, this was a first for me!
Hey Ron You should be able to build a block to fit between the frame and the gear box, on the rear and front, to keep it from jamming backwards and forwards, when the direction is changed. You’re on the right track with replacing the magnet. Good video my friend!!
Yvonne DeCarlo! I recognized her in an instant! I remember as a kid in the late '80s/early '90s being kinda perplexed that Athearn still pictured steam locomotives on the blue boxes, but there were none available in the stores and hobby shops. Now I know why!
I like to keep the rare ones as stock as possible. but a can motor with a long rigid driveling and a worm gear on it would really bring this one around!!
I think it's Vivian Leigh. Also, I think my brother had an Athearn 4-6-2. I can't remember if it was B&M or SF. It's long gone. He went back to his American Flyer, which he still runs in his basement, going on 70 years now.
Hi Ron. Sorry for the late response, it took me all week to watch. Every time I sat down to watch, something else had to be done or fixed. Finally got a chance to finish. Hope all is well for you and the Misses. Looks like this train w as bad new and still bad. Too bad about that motor, but I know you will figure it out. 🤔.The ole boot polishing job does the trick. Go 33%ers 👍 Chat again buddy. Cheers G. 🇨🇦
I get to making these long vid's and yes it does take awhile to get thru them. Hard to tell a repair story in 15 minutes. Yes the Little Lady & Me are doing fine. Tomorrow our election takes place and FINALLY no more political ads for awhile!! Were happy about that. Hope you and your are doing well! :-)
I've always kinda liked some of these older locomotives. There's about half a dozen Atlas "Yellow Box" SD35s in my collection and they're built like tanks. Love 'em to death.
Hi Ron. Re: magnets - I have had success “magnetizing” metal objects by striking a very strong magnet against the metal I want to magnetize. When I say strike, I mean rub the strong magnet from the bottom of the metal object to the top with gentle pressure. Do this several (like a bizillian) times and the magnetic field will transfer to the thing you want to magnetize. In your motor magnet challenge, the poles must be going the same direction (both the stronger magnet and the motor magnet) . North to north or south to south. Just don’t align north to south or the field won’t transfer. I know this is not very clear and I apologize for that. Hopefully it all makes sense. Probably easier to replace if you can find the right fit. Best!
You stumped me this week Ron. I went Lucile Ball but think that’s wrong. Sorry to let you down Ron! lol! I would have got Carolyn Jones -Morticia Addams. All the best and happy Halloween! Had thought about getting an Athearn Pacific before, but kinda glad I stuck with Tyco/Mantua. Hope you can get the magnet replace will be pretty locomotive when running!
NO WAY!! This is the second, maybe 3rd one you got stumped on. Well thank you for being honest. Mantua's are much better for sure. Happy Halloween to you and yours as well Erick!
yes Ron it is lily Munster or Yvonne De Carlo And i have a old Athearn steamer a 4 6 0 ! and a Athearn Genesis and the drive in the early Genesis steam was made by Samhongsa trains!
Hey Ron ! Great effort. Sorry that old loco didn’t quite make it. I’m looking fwd to the follow up episode. That’s a sharp looking engine. I read another comment about securing the gear box . That’s a good idea!
Ps...both Fred Gwynne [ Herman Muenster ] and " Grandpa" of Muenster fame were also actors in the sitcom show of " Car 54,Where are You ?" several years prior.🚔
This is a case of changing the old magnets for new ones… My gosh Ron, you did what I have done: you put some new magnets on the motor (for some time, at least) and maintained the old one! Let me tell you: I have thirteen Athearn cowl units with new magnets all over the sides, the top and the bottom of their original motors. The results are been very good: low starting voltage and greater speed at higher voltage (but the current consumption is a little bit higher…). Unfortunately it is not possible to put a great number of new magnets on cab units (just three on the motor top and one on its bottom), due to the lack of space inside the shells, but they are presenting some good difference in their performances. I’m talking about 10 x 5 x 3 neodymium magnets by the way (measures in millimeters here in the tropical south). Although this old lady is not running, you performed a great job my friend! But - sorry for insist - change the magnet for the new ones and put this beauty to run, please! You and her deserve it!😊
I bought one of these (ATSF 826) from my local railshow a year ago. It was in running shape for $50 I serviced it, and I later sold it for $150. It was all pickup and motorized from the locomotive itself.
Yvonne DeCarlo! Hubba hubba...got that one straight away. You are saving me a lot of money, you know that? You have a knack for working on trains that don't seem to have a good design to begin with. So THANK YOU for saving me money. :) So, re-magnetizers....yes, they are a thing. Here is a link to the man his self, Ronald Dodd. The Hornby Triang lads have their own unique way of looking at things and solving problems. It's a good video that explains some of the answers you were looking for regarding magnets, etc. According to Ronald Dodd, you should not remove the magnet from the frame because the frame AND armature complete the magnetic field along with the magnet. And when you remove the magnet or the armature, it breaks the magnetic field and permanently weakens it, requiring re-magnetization. This video also explains how to determine the direction of the field, although that bit seems pretty basic as we learned that in grade school. But refresher information never hurts. Hope this helps.... th-cam.com/video/0A-hLYS9RvU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JcFutduBOYWVYcxl
I got one of those for Christmas back in 1962. It was a pretty good runner but lacked any real traction because of those blasted "plastic" drivers. Managed to hang on to mine until it took a 435 scale foot dive off the draw-bridge at the Yorktown Model Railroad Club in Virginia back in 1987. FYI, if you were wondering why the tender had those really strange trucks, it's because Athearn originally planned to power the locomotive from the tender. The motor was to be mounted inside the tender and the Hi-Fi drive would power the trucks. Apparently this proved to be a fatal flaw and the whole drive train was redesigned placing a five-pole motor in the boiler.
Sorry to hear your loco suffered from sudden de-acceleration syndrome. Yes I know why the trucks look like they do. I Brought all that up in the video :-). Love your user name!!
Hello! I have an old Bachmann G-scale Pennsylvania engine and tender with two cars. I was wondering how much to get it looked at and fixed? It hasn't been ran in 50 years or so. Not entirely sure of its age either.
Thanks for another great video. A guy will have those projects that don’t go right. I’m sure you will get to it and make it run. I noticed that you change hats like you do. Must be a Midwest thing. Lol. Thanks again!
Great video Ron! Greetings from Sweden! I have the older variant with open gearbox. Very noisy but runs quite well with a Digitrax decoder. Watching your video I think you are missing the boiler weight. My loco have a long weight holding the cable in place which goes between the light and motor. On the magnet try buying a Ron Dodd re-magnetizer. I got my weak magnet strong and healthy using one. It also works great on other old motors as well. Fun fact the steam locomotive on the Athearn blue box covers is their 4-6-2 offering.
I have a copy of the build instructions from hoseeker.net. I seen that weight you describe. I wonder if mine is a earlier version? there was a few differences. Thanks for the recommendation on a good re-magger! I hope I can find one over here in the states.
@@classicmodeltrains The Ron Dodd is a highly recommended remagnetiser. However caution needed as it runs on the UK and European, (and lots of the rest of the world like Australia and New Zealand ) standard house power supply of 230 V AC 50 cycles per second.
@@classicmodeltrainsCould be a earlier version. But the enclosed gearbox must be an improvement compared to mine with the open gears. Anyway here is a video of mine running on my not so fancy YT channel. th-cam.com/video/IyVPdjKwktU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=t5QKnBbV2whenT7J Sorry no narrative as I sound like the Swedish chef in the Muppets. With inspiration from your great videos and nice editing I hope when time permits to get better videos up.
I very much appreciate your halloween enthusiasm. I look forward to these backdrops! I personally love the one you did a few years ago 😅. My daughters bought me an HO scale Michael Myers house that was featured in Halloween 1978. I have an entire section of my layour being dedicated to Spooky. Happy modeling and Happy Halloween, my friend!
GREAT! video, I have some locomotives that look like the one you talked about close but not the same, earher way very interesting looking inside ...Thanks Ron.
I remember being a kid in the 80s, seeing the steamers on the side of the Athearn Blue Boxes and wondering what was up with that? Fast forward to the early 2000s and finally found out the answer on the internet. Also found out to never buy one of these and expect it to run. I've seen a few at train shows, and as soon as I saw the plastic driving wheels in person I was like "oh boy, that ain't a good design." Glad I never bought one, but appreciate the struggles you have endured to try and get one to work.
Oh wow I have two of these! Only B&M-type P-4 that isn’t made of brass (which is exactly why I have multiple lol). I also think that may be closer to 1963. There were three versions produced between 1961 and 1963. One band drive, one with metal drivers and one with plastic drivers. The plastic drivers came last, and closer to when production ceased.
The band drive never made it out of prototype phase. I do know there are a few variations. I had a build instruction sheet from hoseeker.net and it had a few minor differences in it that the one I was working on.
I like the video despite the results of the repair. It gives a great look at early Athearn steam which isn't often seen. As far as the motor, I would just use a MK-130 electric motor from AliExpress. They offer a version that have Neodymium magnets, and they don't go for anything over $4 per motor and sometimes less depending on if a person waits for the slower shipping. Dave Scott over at Scotts Rail have used them to repower old Mehano locomotives. The motor looks to be the right size to fit since the old jet motor seems to be larger. The only thing that I would say about these motors is that sometimes, they are shipped in two pieces (from experience). This means the brushes will have seated on the end of the armature shaft. So, this is worth a try and possibly another (redemption) video for this locomotive.
That's a nice chunk of Americana! One of those Neo-magnets, in place of that tiny original, should be more than adequate to move the loco. Do they fit?I used the Neo magnets in our X-04 motors. Two of the mirror mounting, cup type were a perfect fit. Even one, with a couple of spacer washers, would give a satisfactory performance. And a couple of the small, cylinder type, each side of a ring-field motor, helped. But, investing in a re-magnetizer, (prices have come down by a third here) changed the game and even the oldest motor can be restored to "as new" performance in just 2 seconds. (Just put 5, X-04's through, and the difference is much better crawl speeds, instant response and smoother running, brighter lamps and very smoky "smoke units"!) Is there a wedge missing from in front of the gearbox, to prevent it from slopping around and twisting up the cardan shaft? Love the blacking idea! Great video as always.
I'm looking for a recommendation on a "good" re-magger. not sure if the gear box is missing anything but I plan on doing something to keep it from flopping around. Thanks for your kind words
Old magnets (probably Alnico) have 1/10th the field strength of a neodymium magnet. You can re-magnitize the old ones, but they will still be 1/10th the strength of a neodymium one. Taking them out doesn't de-magnitize them, a sharp mechanical shock or very high temp can though. Iron plates form the magnetic circuit. Think of iron filing lines on a piece of paper with a magnet under it - a motor wants those lines going through it, iron directs the lines and gives them a lower resistance path to get to and from the motor. More than you ever wanted to know about magnets :)
I agree. Simply removing them should do nothing to them. I researched how they can loose there magnetism and once again agree on your statements. I'm certain though... that last little switcher motor I showed, strong enough to hold its self to the screwdriver. a quick swap over to the other motor frame and it was dead. Dangdest think Ive ever seen.
@@classicmodeltrains So no sharp knock or high temperature involved in losing the magnet strength. Conflicts with the theory put forward that may only describe certain types of magnet composition. I will try to find a quote from a Triang service document circa 1961 advising not to remove the magnet without a ferrous metal keeper plate to preserve the magnetic field so as not to lose its magnetism.
@@johnd8892 A couple of Fellers have mentioned a iron plate being used but I have no idea where to or how to use it/them. I will goto hoseeker.net and look thru the trick-ang material and see if its there. Thanks for the info.
Dang - anyway to mess with that shaft and gear binding issue ? Seemed to run well when you twitched it ?🤔 Maybe wedge in a hoobie bracket in the slot so it stays aligned ? Just throwin idears out there. Something missing - any parts diagrams available on wiki ? -- I was sure it was Judy Garland .... kinda looked like her. 33% as always👉.
Parts diagram available on hoseeker.net. A hoobie bracket in the slot was something I was thinking about. just something to keep it from rocking back and forth. Great minds think alike ;-)
I have a band drive version. Also, it's based on the Boston and Maine P-4b class. Mine is in Santa fe markings, it was on the cover of the old blue box for many years.
The Genesis Steamers had a faulty plastic gear on the drive axle that split with in hours of use. I purchased three of them and contacted Athern and they sent my three new drivers with brass gears.
plastic gears, wish these companies would stop using them. I'll try your wire winding idea. Sounds like a good idea to me, Although 1.5v seems a bit small. how about a car battery ? 12v vroom vroom!!
I've got lots of Athearn locomotives. Lots of steam. But Athearns, not my first choice in steam. I've had NOS Athearn steam junk in the box. An old Mantua will run circles around it.
Yep, you're right, Ron. I ment Genesis Steam. No luck.1 example. I decorated a Hudson for a Brewing Co customer. Didn't test it because it was new. No go!Had to go with a backup, Rivarossi, because of time constriction.
On the Tender? Thats going to be a tough on to find. Probably easier to buy a used tender instead. I found a few on the eBay. went for $10 bucks or so.
That’s Lily Munster, Yvonne DeCarlo!! She was a beautiful woman in her day!
I just finished watching the video. You did what you could with it. Maybe someone will have an idea to help you with this one. Not everything is a perfect winner, but never give up. We’ll see you get this one up and running again. Tom
Yup! I'm kinda thinking she played Lily Munster later in her career. I already have an idea with this one. I mentioned what I'm doing in the video. Just waiting for some new parts to arrive. :-)
Use ONE, Two, or Three of the neo-magnets, then wrap with foil until it matches the original magnet size... As you tested the neo's, one was stronger than the original. Instead of thinking outside the box, reshape the box to suit your thoughts. John
The neo's I had here were too large to fit. Thats why I had to order in some new smaller ones. Like the foil idea!!
Well watching this video helped me get my hands on the b&o version and helped me get it running,thank you ron
That's great to hear, glad it helped!
Super video, Ron! A few things on that Athearn, I also have an Athearn Santa Fe 4-6-2, but it does not have that gear box. The motor on mine has a worm gear, and the rear most driver has the gear. So, I'm guessing one is early, and one is later. The tender was also the pick up for power on this one, and it had plastic drivers. The electrical pick up from the tender was terrible, with that style wheel set, I first replaced the wheels with nickel silver ones from one of the parts diesels I had. It still had poor electrical pickup, and after rooting around my junk drawer, I modified a set of Mantua drivers and brass tubing for the axles. It runs great now! I can email you pictures if you want.
sounds like a pretty cool loco you've made now. I like to keep these loco's as stock as possible because if/when they get sold I want to let the new owner do the custom stuff to them. Thanks for the cool idea and the offer :-)
This was a tough one because of that dang magnet. You will beat this one eventually. Awesome video.
Hello S.F. Bob. I hate it when I run outs parts when making a vid. Got lots of parts here. Sometimes dont have the right part. Yes this one will run, not giving up on her
Well, that was some journey you took us on. You have the right magnets just use steel plate to take up any space between the two poles after placing as many magnets as possible that will fit and Bob's your uncle. That boot brush method you came up with works a treat and I'll have to get me one. Shame you have to keep that light, but the original label is worth money. You will get that running but something has to be missing to hold that gearbox in one position because it doesn't make sense like it is. I have to give you a "hats off" for disassembling and reassembling this difficult locomotive. As far as the model is concerned, I knew she looked familiar but who she was eluded me so I was surprised. Great repair and video, Jersey Bill
Hello Jersey Bill. The magnets I have are too big to install into the motor frame. The new ones I ordered will fit much better. something to hold the gearbox is in the plans as well. Its a nice looking loco, just cant believe Athearn could not get the drive any better than that and Ol' Erv said "no more steamers". Mantua had better drives than Athearn. Hard to believe.
I always wondered why you rarely see an Athearn steam loco on the bay. Now i know! As always, Thanks for the history lessons, i really enjoy that in your videos! 👍
Thank for watching Jason!
Love these old models. Guys these days don't appreciate how much they did for the hobby
I hear ya!
If it hadn’t been for companies like Athern and MDC Roundhouse and Mantua/Tyco many of us wouldn’t be in the hobby today. Bring back the “blue box kits”
Well, how interesting. Like you, I have no idea why some magnets fade away as soon as take them out. I am looking forward to seeing how the neodymium magnets go because I have seen them used as replacements but don't know how well they work. That's an interesting locomotive too. 😊👍
Just waiting on some new magnets to try out on her
Hey Ron u make some awesome videos. My go to watch. Thanks. A FYI. There is a conductive light oil available. Its called Inox. MX3FG. Its even good to use for cleaning track. Try it you'll like it.
Much Appreciated!
Great effort Ron. Please keep us up to date when you install new magnets. Who would have thunk.
Thanks Big W! Yes I will keep everyone updated
Another great video Ron I need to get one of these !!!!! Lionel also made a decent ho steamer
Lionel back in the day used Athearn stuff re-branded Lionel. This was originally designed for Lionel, but there was so many problems with it it took 3 years extra to bring to market.
@@classicmodeltrains I was not aware of that..... you know your stuff 😁
This is much different than the early Lionel HO pacifics. Lionel used a bull gear to a wormed jack shaft, to the driven axel. Instead of a floating gearbox on the axel as Athearn used. Good video, and I'm looking forward to the continuation of this repair.
@@stephendollahan425 Well shoot! Now I need one of those as well ;-)
@@dalefraschetti1874 I've got a runner, and a parts loco, in storage. If I can find them, I'll post some pictures to you on FB .
Love the Halloween background! Magnetism is sheer sorcery. Great video! 33%er! Missed on Yvonne but it makes perfect sense. Keep ‘em coming!
Thank you!
I have one of those athearn 4-6-2 it runs so smooth.
Good to hear its a nice runner
Every time I attempt to repair a golden oldie like this something always breaks and seems impossible to fix or reassemble. I have never been so nervous watching a video ! 🤣🤣. You had me on the edge of my seat every time you said I hope this isn’t a bad idea ! I’m a risk taker but you seem to just do it fearlessly 😳. You encourage me to risk more. I have over 300 classic engines I am working through their service and repair. I have trouble identifying what brand they are sometimes because they aren’t always well marked. It’s a labour of love 😊
Glad you are getting all your loco's fixed. working on them is just practice. the more you do the better you get. Also I always think. it's broken now how much worse can I make it?
I would look into that gearbox movement for sure, it very well could be binding up, those driveshaft angles didnt look too happy at times lol nice job as always Ron i had no clue these existed
I agree, gearbox needs to have some blocks holding it in place.
You made a valiant try, Ron. I'm looking forward to see how the neo magnets work out.
Thanks
Kids put those together back in the day, you say. Kids must have been more resourceful back in the day. Wait a minute, I'm one of those kids. Are you sure kids built those?
Kids had way better toys back in the day. When you can play with something that could possible kill you, means your smart enough to know better.
I built these loco kits when I was a kid...about 9,10,11.
My 1st one was a Mantua 040 switcher, then The General (boy that was a bear), then Athern bigger steam.
I couldn't master riveting the valve gear do I deleted it from the build.
First valve gear I ever successfully built from a Bowser kit (K1 Pacific) was at age 30.
Kids today can’t successfully put together tinker toys.
@@ro6742but half of them can write a program for a robot to do it
Amazing they can do this in 1961!
Thats what I wonder as well :-)
Yeah, we did most everything with sticks and chunks of mud back then!
Great video Ron 👍. . Well I must confess I didn't know they did steam loco's. . Definitely not seen one over here in the UK. . . Though I will be looking now 🧐
thanks. Yes these were kept on the down low for a long time it seems
DEFINITELY a 33%'er here!! That's something I've always wanted to get my hands on.
I've been in the hobby since 1975! Love your stuff!
Thank you for all your support!!
To help your algorithm I'll leave a comment. I'm a firm believer in neodymium magnets. I've replaced all the magnets in all my Pittman motors and it really helped a whole bunch. Current draw is less and performance is beyond belief. I've got you a bunch of HO scale engine lenses and light bulbs for 12 volt. Both screw in and the other kind. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks for feeding the monster
I don't know the model, but thought I'd help with the algorithm. Great Vid Ron!
Thank you!
my first gut reaction was yvonne but i was over thinking it. mybe next time. always good to tune in stay well
She is Yvonne De Carlo.
The tender wheels are pretty much the same ones for the athearn blue box RDC. Northwest Shortline has new made nickel silver wheels as replacements for them , if need be.
Yup!
Waiting to see this loco running. I have faith that you will get it running right. Evonne Dicarlo was also in the John Wayne movie "McClintock'. Thanks for sharing
Now I gotta go watch this movie. Cant believe they took such a beauty and made her look like that.
Yeah and Maureen O’Harrah’s character didn’t much care for her either. Great actress.
Super. My railroad decided that the 4-6-2 Heavy Pacific with a long haul tender would be the largest steamer in operation, and I ended up with a fleet of Mantua/Tyco Pacifics after comparing every 4-6-2 available back then. The first bought new Mantua/Tyco Pacific was $19.95, the last was $32.95, all approaching or passing fifty years of service on my railroad now, while the Athearn model, still available at the hobby shop, was slightly higher priced. There are no articulated or Mallet locos on my pike, although friends always bring their Big Boys and Challengers over to operate on my line. (Maybe I will get a 2-6-6-2 Sierra someday.) The Athearn loco was adequate, but passed over because of the standard tender, and after your video, I think I made the right choice for a number of reasons. Good video. P.S. Yvonne De Carlo. I am a big Munsters fan, but she was in a number of shows. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
You always have interesting comments with delightful stories in them. Thank you for this TracyNation!!
Look for a model of the D&SL 2-6-6-0 “Mallet” it would be a nice articulated to add to your railroad. Although I have never seen a plastic model of this particular locomotive.
💙 T.E.N.
Great video! A little biased as I'm the one that sent the engine to Ron. Didn't realize that the motor was that buggered up.
Hey Pete! Thanks so much for sending me this Wonderfull piece of Athearn History. I believe I killed that magnet by removing it. Better magnet is on the way. Update to follow :-)
Nice old classic, forgot Athearn made steam back in the day. Great video Ron.
Thank you
Do a video on your truck. That’s a nice ol’ Chevy.
Ive been trying to put one together for a few years now.
The background more than makes up for those damn magnets. Thanks for the content and entertainment Ron.
Thanks for stopping by!
Yep, adding the neo magnets will definitely make'er run. Did the same thing with those old Lionel plastic HO's. I've never seen the Athearn steam engine, this was a first for me!
This is a first for a lot of Fellers I'm finding out.
I love the video, Ron. I didn't know who your Classic Model was but my wife nailed it. Yvonne DeCarlo, aka: Lily Munster. Sorry about the Athearn.
Thanks Mark! The Athearn will run again
As Always Sir Great Review! Wow what a stubborn steamer! It may have the upper hand now but money is on you getting her running cant wait!
Thanks for the encouragement, we'll get her running soon!
"I hope this doesn't turn into a bad idea." Me, every time I work on a locomotive! Great vide on an unusual and rare model.
Your the first Feller to pick up on that comment ;-). Thanks for your kind words
RON, I THINK YOU are great. Keep up the good work..
Thank you John!
The oldest athearn model trains I've gotten are 19 years old. Got them new when my son was 3 or 4 years old. A John Deere and Christmas Coke a Colo
Right on!
Hey Ron
You should be able to build a block to fit between the frame and the gear box, on the rear and front, to keep it from jamming backwards and forwards, when the direction is changed.
You’re on the right track with replacing the magnet.
Good video my friend!!
Hello Jeb, Thank you, and what you mentioned is the plan I have for her.
Yvonne DeCarlo! I recognized her in an instant!
I remember as a kid in the late '80s/early '90s being kinda perplexed that Athearn still pictured steam locomotives on the blue boxes, but there were none available in the stores and hobby shops. Now I know why!
Very Nice! Your like the second Feller who got who she is!!! Yes I wondered why no steamers as well.
Ron, what a lovely loco.. I tried the shoe polish trick on one of my locos, wow what a difference it makes...
Really brings them around!
Awesome work Ron!
Appreciate it Owen!
Thank you for sharing. Stick a can motor in it.👍
I like to keep the rare ones as stock as possible. but a can motor with a long rigid driveling and a worm gear on it would really bring this one around!!
I think it's Vivian Leigh. Also, I think my brother had an Athearn 4-6-2. I can't remember if it was B&M or SF. It's long gone. He went back to his American Flyer, which he still runs in his basement, going on 70 years now.
so close. AF's are good runners thats for sure
Lilly Munster... Great video Ron!!
Thanks!
Hi Ron. Sorry for the late response, it took me all week to watch. Every time I sat down to watch, something else had to be done or fixed. Finally got a chance to finish. Hope all is well for you and the Misses.
Looks like this train w as bad new and still bad. Too bad about that motor, but I know you will figure it out. 🤔.The ole boot polishing job does the trick. Go 33%ers 👍
Chat again buddy. Cheers G. 🇨🇦
I get to making these long vid's and yes it does take awhile to get thru them. Hard to tell a repair story in 15 minutes. Yes the Little Lady & Me are doing fine. Tomorrow our election takes place and FINALLY no more political ads for awhile!! Were happy about that. Hope you and your are doing well! :-)
Darth Santa Fe can help you with the niodidnium magnets he's good at that😅
Thanks.
63 years old and this is the first time I've seen an Athearn Pacific outside of the side of the older blue and yellow box kits.
Same here when It arrived.
I've always kinda liked some of these older locomotives. There's about half a dozen Atlas "Yellow Box" SD35s in my collection and they're built like tanks. Love 'em to death.
I hear ya!
Hi Ron. Re: magnets - I have had success “magnetizing” metal objects by striking a very strong magnet against the metal I want to magnetize. When I say strike, I mean rub the strong magnet from the bottom of the metal object to the top with gentle pressure. Do this several (like a bizillian) times and the magnetic field will transfer to the thing you want to magnetize. In your motor magnet challenge, the poles must be going the same direction (both the stronger magnet and the motor magnet) . North to north or south to south. Just don’t align north to south or the field won’t transfer. I know this is not very clear and I apologize for that. Hopefully it all makes sense. Probably easier to replace if you can find the right fit. Best!
I appreciate the information, and I've heard of that process. It may be the solution!
You stumped me this week Ron. I went Lucile Ball but think that’s wrong.
Sorry to let you down Ron! lol! I would have got Carolyn Jones -Morticia Addams. All the best and happy Halloween!
Had thought about getting an Athearn Pacific before, but kinda glad I stuck with Tyco/Mantua. Hope you can get the magnet replace will be pretty locomotive when running!
NO WAY!! This is the second, maybe 3rd one you got stumped on. Well thank you for being honest. Mantua's are much better for sure. Happy Halloween to you and yours as well Erick!
yes Ron it is lily Munster or Yvonne De Carlo And i have a old Athearn steamer a 4 6 0 !
and a Athearn Genesis
and the drive in the early Genesis steam was made by Samhongsa trains!
Nice job!
@@classicmodeltrains Thanks Ron
Well all right. Time to get my Ron on.
:-)
Hey Ron ! Great effort. Sorry that old loco didn’t quite make it. I’m looking fwd to the follow up episode. That’s a sharp looking engine. I read another comment about securing the gear box . That’s a good idea!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Ron, great video all the way thru.You need a motor magnetiser to get it working again. Comes in handy for all sorts of things.
I agree. The big question is where do I get a good one? Any suggestions on brand and model would be appreciated :-)
@@classicmodeltrains The ones I have seen jere in Australia are quite expensive for what they are. Will do a search and let you know.
Great video Ron. Replace the athearn magnet with a equal size stack of neo magnets in the motor. This should work on pittman motors also.
Thank you! Thats my plan.
Elvia .... Cassandra Peterson should be the Halloween Model 😍
She was the model a few weeks ago
Hi Ron. Interesting vid and the magnet issue. I loved the Munsters when I was a kid. Take care. CYA....G
Thanks Gary. I never seen the Munsters show. seemed to weird for me when it was in re-runs in the 70's
Car 54,where are you ?
Ps...both Fred Gwynne [ Herman Muenster ] and " Grandpa" of Muenster fame were also actors in the sitcom show of " Car 54,Where are You ?" several years prior.🚔
Hi Ron & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Ron & Friends Randy
Hello Randy, Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
This is a case of changing the old magnets for new ones…
My gosh Ron, you did what I have done: you put some new magnets on the motor (for some time, at least) and maintained the old one!
Let me tell you: I have thirteen Athearn cowl units with new magnets all over the sides, the top and the bottom of their original motors. The results are been very good: low starting voltage and greater speed at higher voltage (but the current consumption is a little bit higher…).
Unfortunately it is not possible to put a great number of new magnets on cab units (just three on the motor top and one on its bottom), due to the lack of space inside the shells, but they are presenting some good difference in their performances. I’m talking about 10 x 5 x 3 neodymium magnets by the way (measures in millimeters here in the tropical south).
Although this old lady is not running, you performed a great job my friend! But - sorry for insist - change the magnet for the new ones and put this beauty to run, please! You and her deserve it!😊
New magnets are on there way!!
I bought one of these (ATSF 826) from my local railshow a year ago. It was in running shape for $50 I serviced it, and I later sold it for $150. It was all pickup and motorized from the locomotive itself.
Sounds like there are a few different variations out there
Yvonne DeCarlo! Hubba hubba...got that one straight away. You are saving me a lot of money, you know that? You have a knack for working on trains that don't seem to have a good design to begin with. So THANK YOU for saving me money. :)
So, re-magnetizers....yes, they are a thing. Here is a link to the man his self, Ronald Dodd. The Hornby Triang lads have their own unique way of looking at things and solving problems. It's a good video that explains some of the answers you were looking for regarding magnets, etc. According to Ronald Dodd, you should not remove the magnet from the frame because the frame AND armature complete the magnetic field along with the magnet. And when you remove the magnet or the armature, it breaks the magnetic field and permanently weakens it, requiring re-magnetization. This video also explains how to determine the direction of the field, although that bit seems pretty basic as we learned that in grade school. But refresher information never hurts. Hope this helps....
th-cam.com/video/0A-hLYS9RvU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JcFutduBOYWVYcxl
Thanks for this information Tim!!
Bummer about the magnet. I’d like to see a short to show how it runs when you get the new magnet in. Thanks!
I will include how this one turned out in a future video for sure
I got one of those for Christmas back in 1962. It was a pretty good runner but lacked any real traction because of those blasted "plastic" drivers. Managed to hang on to mine until it took a 435 scale foot dive off the draw-bridge at the Yorktown Model Railroad Club in Virginia back in 1987. FYI, if you were wondering why the tender had those really strange trucks, it's because Athearn originally planned to power the locomotive from the tender. The motor was to be mounted inside the tender and the Hi-Fi drive would power the trucks. Apparently this proved to be a fatal flaw and the whole drive train was redesigned placing a five-pole motor in the boiler.
Sorry to hear your loco suffered from sudden de-acceleration syndrome. Yes I know why the trucks look like they do. I Brought all that up in the video :-). Love your user name!!
Hello! I have an old Bachmann G-scale Pennsylvania engine and tender with two cars. I was wondering how much to get it looked at and fixed? It hasn't been ran in 50 years or so. Not entirely sure of its age either.
I dont really do outside repairs. There are no parts sources for old Bachmann G stuff.
Thanks for another great video. A guy will have those projects that don’t go right. I’m sure you will get to it and make it run. I noticed that you change hats like you do. Must be a Midwest thing. Lol. Thanks again!
So many hats and so few days to wear them all in ;-)
Great video Ron! Greetings from Sweden! I have the older variant with open gearbox. Very noisy but runs quite well with a Digitrax decoder.
Watching your video I think you are missing the boiler weight.
My loco have a long weight holding the cable in place which goes between the light and motor.
On the magnet try buying a Ron Dodd re-magnetizer. I got my weak magnet strong and healthy using one. It also works great on other old motors as well.
Fun fact the steam locomotive on the Athearn blue box covers is their 4-6-2 offering.
I have a copy of the build instructions from hoseeker.net. I seen that weight you describe. I wonder if mine is a earlier version? there was a few differences. Thanks for the recommendation on a good re-magger! I hope I can find one over here in the states.
@@classicmodeltrains The Ron Dodd is a highly recommended remagnetiser. However caution needed as it runs on the UK and European, (and lots of the rest of the world like Australia and New Zealand ) standard house power supply of 230 V AC 50 cycles per second.
@@classicmodeltrainsCould be a earlier version. But the enclosed gearbox must be an improvement compared to mine with the open gears. Anyway here is a video of mine running on my not so fancy YT channel.
th-cam.com/video/IyVPdjKwktU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=t5QKnBbV2whenT7J
Sorry no narrative as I sound like the Swedish chef in the Muppets.
With inspiration from your great videos and nice editing I hope when time permits to get better videos up.
@@hakannilsson9490 Stopped by and checked out your vid. New Sub, up thumb, and comment for ya 🙂
I very much appreciate your halloween enthusiasm. I look forward to these backdrops! I personally love the one you did a few years ago 😅. My daughters bought me an HO scale Michael Myers house that was featured in Halloween 1978. I have an entire section of my layour being dedicated to Spooky. Happy modeling and Happy Halloween, my friend!
Nice!! Ive seen a few Fellers that do themed parts on the layout. Love them!!!!!
Nice video of this athearn 4-6-2 pacific! 33%er
Thanks Matt!
And I've had 10 people tell me that Athearn never made steam locos .... UGH!!! 😫
I wondered for a long time as well !
That is Yvonne De Carlo.
Awesome work on the steam engine
Yup! Thanks for your kind words :-)
GREAT! video, I have some locomotives that look like the one you talked about close but not the same, earher way very interesting looking inside ...Thanks Ron.
Thank you!
Hey Ron, how did you find those replacement pilots. I keep looking on eBay. Thanks
I though I just seen some available on the e-bay. I was looking under Athearn #826 pacific I believe
@@classicmodeltrains Always first to hit the floor and sold out. I will keep looking. Thank you
I remember being a kid in the 80s, seeing the steamers on the side of the Athearn Blue Boxes and wondering what was up with that? Fast forward to the early 2000s and finally found out the answer on the internet. Also found out to never buy one of these and expect it to run. I've seen a few at train shows, and as soon as I saw the plastic driving wheels in person I was like "oh boy, that ain't a good design." Glad I never bought one, but appreciate the struggles you have endured to try and get one to work.
Thanks for watching!
Another great video!
Thank you Jim
I have never seen one of those
That was fun. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Oh wow I have two of these! Only B&M-type P-4 that isn’t made of brass (which is exactly why I have multiple lol). I also think that may be closer to 1963. There were three versions produced between 1961 and 1963. One band drive, one with metal drivers and one with plastic drivers. The plastic drivers came last, and closer to when production ceased.
The band drive never made it out of prototype phase. I do know there are a few variations. I had a build instruction sheet from hoseeker.net and it had a few minor differences in it that the one I was working on.
Nice job as usual
thank you
I like the video despite the results of the repair. It gives a great look at early Athearn steam which isn't often seen. As far as the motor, I would just use a MK-130 electric motor from AliExpress. They offer a version that have Neodymium magnets, and they don't go for anything over $4 per motor and sometimes less depending on if a person waits for the slower shipping. Dave Scott over at Scotts Rail have used them to repower old Mehano locomotives. The motor looks to be the right size to fit since the old jet motor seems to be larger. The only thing that I would say about these motors is that sometimes, they are shipped in two pieces (from experience). This means the brushes will have seated on the end of the armature shaft. So, this is worth a try and possibly another (redemption) video for this locomotive.
Thanks for the recommendation :-)
I finally got a notice you had a NEW video and I'm first of the 33%'ers.
@@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561 right on! Technology is finally working as it should :-)
Great video, as always. What about Dremeling out space for the new, strong magnets?
I dont want to destroy this piece of history by them kind of modifications. I believe new fancy magnets installed will bring it around
Yvonne DeCarlo! I was going to google her but forgot till the end of the video (Darn doom scrolling)
Yup!!
Good video, like ! ! !
:-)
Lilly Monster is all I remember her from. Great video take car Ron.
You got her guessed right there Dennis.
33%er!! Never knew Athearn built early steamers
Hello Danny, I only learned about this one a year ago or so. doing some digging online
That's a nice chunk of Americana! One of those Neo-magnets, in place of that tiny original, should be more than adequate to move the loco. Do they fit?I used the Neo magnets in our X-04 motors. Two of the mirror mounting, cup type were a perfect fit. Even one, with a couple of spacer washers, would give a satisfactory performance. And a couple of the small, cylinder type, each side of a ring-field motor, helped. But, investing in a re-magnetizer, (prices have come down by a third here) changed the game and even the oldest motor can be restored to "as new" performance in just 2 seconds. (Just put 5, X-04's through, and the difference is much better crawl speeds, instant response and smoother running, brighter lamps and very smoky "smoke units"!) Is there a wedge missing from in front of the gearbox, to prevent it from slopping around and twisting up the cardan shaft? Love the blacking idea! Great video as always.
I'm looking for a recommendation on a "good" re-magger. not sure if the gear box is missing anything but I plan on doing something to keep it from flopping around. Thanks for your kind words
Another great job Ron u the man
Thank you Joe!
Yeah, very disappointing about the magnets but I am sure you will find a solution!
There on their way in the mail as I type this
Old magnets (probably Alnico) have 1/10th the field strength of a neodymium magnet. You can re-magnitize the old ones, but they will still be 1/10th the strength of a neodymium one. Taking them out doesn't de-magnitize them, a sharp mechanical shock or very high temp can though. Iron plates form the magnetic circuit. Think of iron filing lines on a piece of paper with a magnet under it - a motor wants those lines going through it, iron directs the lines and gives them a lower resistance path to get to and from the motor.
More than you ever wanted to know about magnets :)
I agree. Simply removing them should do nothing to them. I researched how they can loose there magnetism and once again agree on your statements. I'm certain though... that last little switcher motor I showed, strong enough to hold its self to the screwdriver. a quick swap over to the other motor frame and it was dead. Dangdest think Ive ever seen.
@@classicmodeltrains So no sharp knock or high temperature involved in losing the magnet strength. Conflicts with the theory put forward that may only describe certain types of magnet composition.
I will try to find a quote from a Triang service document circa 1961 advising not to remove the magnet without a ferrous metal keeper plate to preserve the magnetic field so as not to lose its magnetism.
@@johnd8892 A couple of Fellers have mentioned a iron plate being used but I have no idea where to or how to use it/them. I will goto hoseeker.net and look thru the trick-ang material and see if its there. Thanks for the info.
Dang - anyway to mess with that shaft and gear binding issue ? Seemed to run well when you twitched it ?🤔
Maybe wedge in a hoobie bracket in the slot so it stays aligned ? Just throwin idears out there. Something missing - any parts diagrams available on wiki ? -- I was sure it was Judy Garland .... kinda looked like her. 33% as always👉.
Parts diagram available on hoseeker.net. A hoobie bracket in the slot was something I was thinking about. just something to keep it from rocking back and forth. Great minds think alike ;-)
Enjoyed 😊
:-)
I have a band drive version. Also, it's based on the Boston and Maine P-4b class. Mine is in Santa fe markings, it was on the cover of the old blue box for many years.
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing
I have two of those that I bought at different times scrap. They were so unusual that I restored both and made all the missing parts.
That sounds pretty cool!!
The Genesis Steamers had a faulty plastic gear on the drive axle that split with in hours of use. I purchased three of them and contacted Athern and they sent my three new drivers with brass gears.
You can remagnetize your old magnet by wrapping it in a fine insulated wire and running DC current through it for a minuet. Use a battery.
plastic gears, wish these companies would stop using them. I'll try your wire winding idea. Sounds like a good idea to me, Although 1.5v seems a bit small. how about a car battery ? 12v vroom vroom!!
I've got lots of Athearn locomotives. Lots of steam. But Athearns, not my first choice in steam. I've had NOS Athearn steam junk in the box. An old Mantua will run circles around it.
Lots? Best I can tell there was only three offered from 1961-1965 until the genesis line came out. I agree Mantua is a far superior product
Yep, you're right, Ron. I ment Genesis Steam. No luck.1 example. I decorated a Hudson for a Brewing Co customer. Didn't test it because it was new. No go!Had to go with a backup, Rivarossi, because of time constriction.
allways fun Ron.
:-)
This is a good one. I laughed. I cried. LOL.. Love your humor.
Mirna loy
Thank you!
I'm working on restoring one of these but I only have one of the pickup bogies
On the Tender? Thats going to be a tough on to find. Probably easier to buy a used tender instead. I found a few on the eBay. went for $10 bucks or so.
@@classicmodeltrains won a lot for 3 doner locomotives on ebay with 2 tenders and only ended up with one pickup bogie lol
@@ggtvfan3lol465 Oh MAN! what are the odds of that. all them parts and still come up short. Sorry to hear that
...and I have the pictures of the prototype they made with a Hi-f drive. Sold for $3k about 10 years ago.
Oh wow! Big bucks for sure
Looking forward to the update that sends out a “yee-haw, it works” to the rest of the world…still learned something…cheers from 🇨🇦 …happy Halloween 🎃
Thanks for your kind words and Happy Halloween!
Ron put a spacer block on top of the gear box to stop it from flexing up and down
Yes Sir, Thats the plan.