Darn, I’ve got one of these locks on my desk waiting to go... you beat me to it. 😢 Great video. 👍 Those chain retention roll pins bother me for some reason. I know they’re hardened, and darned near impossible to remove from their blind holes, but I have a gut feeling that they are the weak points. I’ll have to give some thought to a creative way to address them. 😈
That was my thought as well. Is the core vulnerable to a pulling attack with a slide hammer? How much abuse can those joints where the chain attaches take?
Something that didn't occur to me, but mentioned in a comment, was to attack the U where the links attach to the lock. It might be possible to spread them apart to release the chain. Also, I did not try using an ease out on the larger roll pin there, so that's another option if it is a little bit loose.
That would be GREAT! Please send it to: LockLab, P.O. Box 2160, Merrifield, VA 22116. Thanks for such a generous offer as these are expensive locks and I can't afford one. AWESOME!
After much contemplating different models, decided on this model which I managed to find online for 25 euros in Germany and ordered it. My bicycle isn't worth much money but it means the world to me because it's my baby and I have put a ton of work on it. Thanks for the recommendation, review and awesome channel @Bosnianbill
Looks like great a good bang for buck. Nice to see for a change. I was worried what was hidden under the plastic & cloth as well as pick resistance but If you can't get into it, that's good enough for me. Good video. 🍺😎
I can't count the number of times I've seen that too, Shiny lock, cool keys, nice nylon cover, crappy kmart chain hidden underneath...😀 Most people make their buy decision based on appearance. Shiny is good.
Don'z Lockz ongaurd has made solid bike locks for years. One item to note is my ongaurd lock worked in freezing conditions that seemed to jam most other locks during the long Winters we had at Syracuse University.
Thank you Sir. Here's what I did: Ignored all the advice about different filters, compression, balancing, equalization, etc. I recorded it, and pasted it onto the video - just like the "old days". That's it. Sometimes technology ISN'T your friend.
I cut up some Abus chain of what looks to be roughly the same dimensions, for a job. I used a 4" angle grinder with a proper name-brand cutting disc. They are only about 1.5mm thick. After 60-odd cuts or more, I maybe used half a disc. About 15 sec a cut. Angle grinders come cordless these days too. Depending on where the locked item is located, 15 sec of angle grinder noise might be easily missed.
Bill, nice to see a product actually perform well for once. You should pass the remains on to LPL he excels at picking sliders & disc detainers. If he gets a fight from it, that company's sales ... will take off.
In Hawaii To message me, you need to pass the big sign in all CAPS saying that I don’t check messages, only email. 😋 But I do have one of these, and will feature it at some point in the near future. 👍
Looks like a tough product, and if I weren't too lazy to get on a bike, I would probably invest. Thanks for the indepth review and testing Bill, regardless of my interest in bicycles, still really enjoy seeing the analysis and disassembly/destruction of products. All of the extra time and work are much appreciated sir!
LPL just picked one with the same (or a very similar looking one at least) cylinder. Took him about two minutes wich meanes that it will never get picked in the street. An 8mm chain is ok for ~500$/€ bikes. I have seen larger chaines cut with bolt cutters, I don't know if I would trust that. I personally use a 10mm Abus square link chain with an Abus Diskus 20/80. That makes for a rather strong lock, I doubt that someone is gonna steal my bike any time soon.
I know this is an old video. But I would recommend using a propane or map gas torch to heat up the box cutter blade before cutting plastic. We do a lot of automotive interior modifying, and if we cant use a drimmel to cut plastic, we use heated box cutters. It works wonderfully on even super hard plastics.
hey bill. TheLockpickingLawyer just picked one of those locks open (in 676) and he gutted it in (586) I think you have to tension those locks somewhere further in so its hard to tension with a small tensioner.
metamorphicorder I use one of my dimple tension tools on these... the only difficulty tensioning them is that the cores in OnGuard products tend to be well-buried in the housing, so you need more length. 👍
After seeying so many locks picked.....I thought this would be a piece of cake.... Imagine my surprise....when he says....I COULD NOT GET THIS THING PICKED !
Glad to see that chain is good. That and the Abloy 340 are what keep things I want to continue owning in the back if my soft top Jeep. I started learning lockpicking to be able to make better decisions to secure my own things. Seems like it is paying off.
If bolt cutters can't cut that 8mm link Mastiff chain I'm very happy I bought the 14mm OnGuard Beast equivalent for my motorbike. Only angle grinders are a threat and inside my reduced garage I installed a very sensitive fire detector which I hope should double work as the best alarm too while using angle or die grinders.
Thats impressive for on guard. Now for the slide hammer, ramset and plumbing torch testing by lpl. If you dont have a use for that chain Bill i will put it to use.
Small bottle jack in between the chain roll pin and place a screwdriver between two adjacent links. Thick hardened Screwdriver top of jack then Pin at bottom. Start jacking and the pin will give. Very quiet and quick too.
Dear Bill, Your lock picking skills are admirable and I'll rather like that you keep posting them ! That's why I'll allow myself a few remarks on abrasive metal machining. See, watched it over a few times and, that grinder might hurt you. Die grinders are not angle grinders. Period. First, a proper hand position on an angle grinder will direct most of the cutting torque in a pulling direction whose main vector coincides with your arm. In other words, should the stone stall, the tool will be pulled out of you without creating further rotation perpendicular to the spindle. The disk won't wobble and wedge it's sides into the depth of the cut. A die grinder is usually held as close as possible to the cutting disk yet, no matter what, the resultant between the cutting drag and the reaction of your hand will result in a torque perpendicular to the spindle. Which will increase the risk of wedging the stone and induce an unstable oscillatory vibration unless the part is very rigidly held and so are your hands. The trick to spare the stone from premature wear is to let the speed do it's work and apply as little cutting force as possible. Permanently moving the stone contact point, once or twice per second, along the cut is cardinal. On the way down, that is when you pull against the cutting effort, you must apply a slightly greater pressure than on the way up. The reason is simple. Sparks. That's actually burning iron. Iron is pyrophoric. That is when there's enough surface to volume ratio for spontaneous oxidation. Which is the case of the tiny hot rough surfaced particles scrapped away by the abrasive. Sparks are exactly that, a flow of burning iron. They are extremely energetic and directing them in the cut as much as possible helps cutting speed and reduces tool wear. That's why an angle-grinder fetishist kind of "plays violin", pully-hardy, pushy-softy. If your tool stalls be it once, then you're potentially in the danger zone. Shrapnels at high velocity are not that cool and, depends on the power rating, the tool can also jump and overpower your hold in less than a heartbeat. Seek for a better position and stable part or it might hurt you real bad. As you say, stay safe, stay legal, tool guard and face protection, and thanks for the job well done !
Thank you for the tips and advice. My experience with my die grinder is limited to cutting locks in the LockLab, and not a great deal of that. In the video I was trying to keep the chain cutting as realistic as possible to what a criminal would face when stealing something by cutting the chain. Instead of clamping the chain in a vise, as I normally do, I simulated the chain around a bike and had to use my foot to tension the chain and hold it still. Not as easy as everyone seems to think. The work piece flops around while cutting, trying to twist away from the cutting blade. With all the slack, the chain starts to oscillate while grinding, which grabs and twists the cutting blade and breaks off pieces of it. To do a good job of it you'd need TWO people. One cutter, and one to stand on the chain with both feet to hold it still. It is much harder than everyone thinks - almost an art form.
Spot on Bill, thanks for the realistic simulation. Yep, I don't really mind if a thief looses a finger or three in the process, but somehow I was concerned by the real deal testers and legit users. In my kit I have vise-grips, one small and one big with a loop of strap & adjusting buckle attached to a ring brazed on the adjusting screw. This way I can hold the part (ok, guessed right, chain&lock) under hefty tension with my foot. Or any other solid anchor point. The tricky part is to cut so as the resulting tensile stress opens the cut instead of closing it alike the pads on a disk brake. Nice day to all and, be legal be safe or soon "they" will require a registration license for portable angle grinders and specialist cut-off stones ;)
Use a drill and bit to pull the roll pins. A small drill bit will catch the seam and spin the roll pin , slowly pull it while you are spinning it. I do this on transmissions all the time.Brett
I'll give it a try, thanks! If it fails, I'll send you a bill for the broken drill bit, burned out drill motor, damaged lock, the trip to the emergency room, and a new LockLab from the resulting disaster. Oh yeah, emotional distress from the full burned up beer cooler. Stand by, I'll let you know where to send the check.😀
Hi Bill! I'm quite new to lockpicking, but it is thoroughly interesting. There's a huuuuge bin of discarded cores from data center cabinet doors at my office, all the same manufacturer, and i'd like to get started practicing on them. Your vids are really inspirational. Thanks! :)
I have a very similar Kryptonite exclusively sold through Walmart. I too tried the hacksaw test and it just skittered off the chain. BUT, the plug that snaps into the body, silver colored just like on the On Guard, was not hardened and the hacksaw had no problems biting into it. A pretty big flaw imho. Maybe Bosnianbill could test that as well.
I love your videos. Why throw away the core? I would love to get my hands on the lock and try to remove the core. Maybe they cheaped out with a zinc actuator or something. Alot of your fans (me included) would love to see whats inside.
I bet you could get a realllly tiny tap into the hole of those roll pins, like a 0-80 tap, and then put a screw into the tapped hole and use the screw as leverage to pull the pins out.
@@ZOMBIEHEADSHOTKILLER let me ask you something, i don't know if you know about these locks but do you think a 12mm chain is better/tougher than a 16mm u lock?
@@fallback8314 they both have their strengths and weaknesses.... i use both a chain, and a U lock. 2 different locks make it so they hopfully, cant use just one attack/tool. and so it hopefully takes twice as long to break through.
@@ZOMBIEHEADSHOTKILLER if you had to go with one. would you go with the 12mm chain with a 9mm/10mm padlock? (i have this kit), or would you go with the 16mm u lock? and to be clear, yes i have the 10mm mastiff chain but i also have this 12mm chain lying around and an old guard brand security 65mm padlock with what seems to be a 9mm or 10mm shackle. if you had to go with one to protect your bike, would it be the 12mm chain or 16mm u lock? weight is not a factor.
Nathan Martins won it and I shipped it on 4/17. You can always check that stuff on the "You WON" page of the website. Total transparency. lock-lab.com/you-won2/2/
The giveaway is usually pictured on the registration page and right now the Saturday one is the new Mad Bob’s paradox kit. I WISH i had more of those Bowley 543s to give away!
I've noticed the same, pretty honest rating I think, that's a good sign on this manufacturer, because ratings used to be opposite, high ratings to crap garbages.
have you tried the "new" carbide saws-all blades on any locks lately? I think that would be a test if they are hardened parts or not. Also the battery and even 60v battery 4 1/2 grinder with 1/8" think cutting disks are made to cut steel vs a die grinder.
I'm going to have to pick one up for the ladders on my truck, only question would be how do the pins hold up to a drill. I might consider replacing them with a steel drive pin.
Surprised you didnt try a sawzall and try cutting the roll pins holding in the chain link. Its looks like you could fit the blade in the gap on both sides and cut the pin. Unless im missing something.
OnGaurd should make the sleeve that goes over the chain out of the same stuff as those chaps for protection from a chainsaw, that would bind up a die grinder in a hurry and make it near impossible to cut through
I wonder how it will stand up to the LPL's large screw extractor or nut splitter. The weakest point i think is where the chain attaches, single hollow roll pin. I think that could give fairly easily with those tools.
10:11 yeah that sucks. i cut the tip of my thumb off a couple of weeks ago with a knife. the tip just rolled on the beam for a moment. it was so weird to watch that happen. it didnt even hurt. first..
tru story. I was learning lock picking and felt I had master master locks. And was ready to move on to harder tasks. I have baldwin locks, I dont know if all or just some have great tension. I thought it was a design flaw, trying to open it but then realised that it makes it nearly impossible to rack or random pin picking. Further more, trying to actual single pin pick this, was hard. Like I'm not at the level by any means. Could you or the Lockpicking Lawyer do it? Probably. But that isnt the average john who watches YT on how to access locks without a key.
It comes down to tolerances in the lock. High quality locks with tight tolerances don't like to bind one pin at a time. Instead, you'll get 2, 3 or even more binding all at the same time, making it REALLY hard to know which to pick first. When that happens, trial and error trying different sequences is my favored technique.
I think you're right but I was trying to mimic something a thief would do. I don't think they'd take the time to neatly, and correctly remove a roll pin.
The web sleeve is sloppy around the lock. Use a zip tie. Poke a hole through, put the zip tie through, and wrap it around the web cover. If you don't do this, then you will end up with an exposed chain scratching your bike.
Great review. The only other question I would have from the perspective of a bicycle rider is, what is the weight of the lock and chain? I realize that is not something that you normally comment in the context of lock sport, but as a guy who owns a carbon fiber bike, I would think weight would be important to you.
I would like to see the 100 rated bike lock. I bet it is impossible to find a way in. Wait, we can always find a way in however, if it is 33.3% more secure than the one in this video then even the dye grinder may not be able to get a chance. Please note that this is a very interesting and informative guidelines for the ultimate unbreachable god of locks. Please get Ahold of the best of the best at the 100 rating and show the magificence of the 100. I'm excited to see the difference.
Hilti on the chain roll pin (backside)?I wonder how the lock itself would stand up to the Hilti firing down at the locking pin through the yellow silicone.
Quick question, would it be possible to just drill out the roll pins that the easy out could not remove? It seems to me that they would probably remove it, or bind and allow extraction.
Hi, TY for your video. About 0:50 + Looks like they know, that this lock CAN be opened. But, it will need some special equipment, or skills, or time, to do that. And they think that there's very little chance that someone will use that skills to stole your bicycle. So, if that happens, they will give money back. But, chances of that will happen with some scooter are higher. Not great at all that things and their prices, but looks like good scooter prices much more money then good bicycle (not that sport overpriced models, but some good models), so that is your risk to leave your scooter without attention out of some parking.
why not cut the roll pin from the blank side as there is a very visible gap then put in screw driver and push it part way out then needle nose pliers and pull it out?
i lost keys to similar type of lock and put oil in roll bin and little wood screw and attached it to the Vice then I hit the lock with hammer couples time i needed to put scew back but that a roll bin left off
![[681] Slide Hammer vs. OnGuard Mastiff Bicycle Chain Lock](/img/n.gif)
Darn, I’ve got one of these locks on my desk waiting to go... you beat me to it. 😢 Great video. 👍 Those chain retention roll pins bother me for some reason. I know they’re hardened, and darned near impossible to remove from their blind holes, but I have a gut feeling that they are the weak points. I’ll have to give some thought to a creative way to address them. 😈
That was my thought as well. Is the core vulnerable to a pulling attack with a slide hammer? How much abuse can those joints where the chain attaches take?
LockPickingLawyer ramset
Something that didn't occur to me, but mentioned in a comment, was to attack the U where the links attach to the lock. It might be possible to spread them apart to release the chain. Also, I did not try using an ease out on the larger roll pin there, so that's another option if it is a little bit loose.
Would like to see some testing on the "abus bordo Granit xPlus 6500"
That would be GREAT! Please send it to: LockLab, P.O. Box 2160, Merrifield, VA 22116. Thanks for such a generous offer as these are expensive locks and I can't afford one. AWESOME!
His narration is great. Like listening to this guy.
Bill you are the best! I never get tired of these. Even tho im definitely a new picker id love to mess with that lock.
I like the way you approach looking for the weakness. Very systematic
@Bosnianbill Maybe you should be sending Master Locks a link to this video, they might learn a thing or three! LOL
Modern Leveller i think master lock rating would be 700. ;)
Nice! I was wondering if you'd ever find a "recommended buy" among bike locks. :)
Took a while, huh? There's a lot of junk and false advertising in the bicycle lock industry.
hahha a mouthfull of bad crawdads! i've never heard that one until now.. thank you for the videos ! Love watching these- I learn so much
After much contemplating different models, decided on this model which I managed to find online for 25 euros in Germany and ordered it. My bicycle isn't worth much money but it means the world to me because it's my baby and I have put a ton of work on it. Thanks for the recommendation, review and awesome channel @Bosnianbill
Looks like great a good bang for buck. Nice to see for a change. I was worried what was hidden under the plastic & cloth as well as pick resistance but If you can't get into it, that's good enough for me. Good video. 🍺😎
I can't count the number of times I've seen that too, Shiny lock, cool keys, nice nylon cover, crappy kmart chain hidden underneath...😀 Most people make their buy decision based on appearance. Shiny is good.
Bosnianbill too true, a welcomed change for sure. :)
Don'z Lockz ongaurd has made solid bike locks for years. One item to note is my ongaurd lock worked in freezing conditions that seemed to jam most other locks during the long Winters we had at Syracuse University.
cjengineer good to know as cheap lock manufacturers don't normally worry about issues like that. 🍺👍🏽
Abus gives you better bang for the buck than this lock
Bill, great video and audio was absolutely spot on, none of that echo/hiss. Whatever you did has sorted that out.
Thanks for so much great content.
Thank you Sir. Here's what I did: Ignored all the advice about different filters, compression, balancing, equalization, etc. I recorded it, and pasted it onto the video - just like the "old days". That's it. Sometimes technology ISN'T your friend.
I cut up some Abus chain of what looks to be roughly the same dimensions, for a job. I used a 4" angle grinder with a proper name-brand cutting disc. They are only about 1.5mm thick. After 60-odd cuts or more, I maybe used half a disc. About 15 sec a cut. Angle grinders come cordless these days too. Depending on where the locked item is located, 15 sec of angle grinder noise might be easily missed.
Bill, nice to see a product actually perform well for once. You should pass the remains on to LPL he excels at picking sliders & disc detainers. If he gets a fight from it, that company's sales ... will take off.
He picked the U-Lock just yesterday, it had the same core I think. Two minutes means that nobody will pick it in the street.
Would like to see LPL have a go at it.
In Hawaii To message me, you need to pass the big sign in all CAPS saying that I don’t check messages, only email. 😋 But I do have one of these, and will feature it at some point in the near future. 👍
LPL, that is, if you ever choose to ... leave paradise and return. Let me guess, it's 82° there?
Looks like a tough product, and if I weren't too lazy to get on a bike, I would probably invest. Thanks for the indepth review and testing Bill, regardless of my interest in bicycles, still really enjoy seeing the analysis and disassembly/destruction of products. All of the extra time and work are much appreciated sir!
LPL just picked one with the same (or a very similar looking one at least) cylinder. Took him about two minutes wich meanes that it will never get picked in the street.
An 8mm chain is ok for ~500$/€ bikes.
I have seen larger chaines cut with bolt cutters, I don't know if I would trust that.
I personally use a 10mm Abus square link chain with an Abus Diskus 20/80. That makes for a rather strong lock, I doubt that someone is gonna steal my bike any time soon.
I know this is an old video. But I would recommend using a propane or map gas torch to heat up the box cutter blade before cutting plastic. We do a lot of automotive interior modifying, and if we cant use a drimmel to cut plastic, we use heated box cutters. It works wonderfully on even super hard plastics.
I'm liking these lock reviews Bill. Don't get me wrong, I love the gear reviews aswell, but its awesome to see locks that I haven't looked at before.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. The reviews take quite a bit of time to film & edit so its nice to know they are worth the extra effort.
Risk to reward if the lock is the same the "motor sport" is the better (more frequent) target, hence the $1000 diffrence.
Actually, the $500 covers your deductible, because you should have theft insurance on a power sport.
Dude you sold that I'm so what I'm going to buy it thank you for the video
hey bill. TheLockpickingLawyer just picked one of those locks open (in 676) and he gutted it in (586)
I think you have to tension those locks somewhere further in so its hard to tension with a small tensioner.
aullik he did just pick an on guard slider core and he said he had to tension from the middle and he had to use a custom tool to do it i believe.
metamorphicorder I use one of my dimple tension tools on these... the only difficulty tensioning them is that the cores in OnGuard products tend to be well-buried in the housing, so you need more length. 👍
LockPickingLawyer yep, i got it confused i think with the last kryptonite you did that you had to tension from the middle. My mistake.
After seeying so many locks picked.....I thought this would be a piece of cake.... Imagine my surprise....when he says....I COULD NOT GET THIS THING PICKED !
Glad to see that chain is good. That and the Abloy 340 are what keep things I want to continue owning in the back if my soft top Jeep. I started learning lockpicking to be able to make better decisions to secure my own things. Seems like it is paying off.
If bolt cutters can't cut that 8mm link Mastiff chain I'm very happy I bought the 14mm OnGuard Beast equivalent for my motorbike. Only angle grinders are a threat and inside my reduced garage I installed a very sensitive fire detector which I hope should double work as the best alarm too while using angle or die grinders.
The handles on the paragon set look really nice, I think that lock is cheaper than one I bought, but still much nicer.
Thats impressive for on guard.
Now for the slide hammer, ramset and plumbing torch testing by lpl. If you dont have a use for that chain Bill i will put it to use.
Small bottle jack in between the chain roll pin and place a screwdriver between two adjacent links. Thick hardened Screwdriver top of jack then Pin at bottom. Start jacking and the pin will give. Very quiet and quick too.
I've gotten roll pins like those out by using a dremel and a carbide burr very effective and pretty quick
Dear Bill,
Your lock picking skills are admirable and I'll rather like that you keep posting them !
That's why I'll allow myself a few remarks on abrasive metal machining. See, watched it over a few times and, that grinder might hurt you.
Die grinders are not angle grinders. Period.
First, a proper hand position on an angle grinder will direct most of the cutting torque in a pulling direction whose main vector coincides with your arm. In other words, should the stone stall, the tool will be pulled out of you without creating further rotation perpendicular to the spindle. The disk won't wobble and wedge it's sides into the depth of the cut.
A die grinder is usually held as close as possible to the cutting disk yet, no matter what, the resultant between the cutting drag and the reaction of your hand will result in a torque perpendicular to the spindle.
Which will increase the risk of wedging the stone and induce an unstable oscillatory vibration unless the part is very rigidly held and so are your hands.
The trick to spare the stone from premature wear is to let the speed do it's work and apply as little cutting force as possible.
Permanently moving the stone contact point, once or twice per second, along the cut is cardinal.
On the way down, that is when you pull against the cutting effort, you must apply a slightly greater pressure than on the way up.
The reason is simple. Sparks. That's actually burning iron. Iron is pyrophoric. That is when there's enough surface to volume ratio for spontaneous oxidation. Which is the case of the tiny hot rough surfaced particles scrapped away by the abrasive. Sparks are exactly that, a flow of burning iron.
They are extremely energetic and directing them in the cut as much as possible helps cutting speed and reduces tool wear.
That's why an angle-grinder fetishist kind of "plays violin", pully-hardy, pushy-softy.
If your tool stalls be it once, then you're potentially in the danger zone. Shrapnels at high velocity are not that cool and, depends on the power rating, the tool can also jump and overpower your hold in less than a heartbeat.
Seek for a better position and stable part or it might hurt you real bad.
As you say, stay safe, stay legal, tool guard and face protection, and thanks for the job well done !
Thank you for the tips and advice. My experience with my die grinder is limited to cutting locks in the LockLab, and not a great deal of that.
In the video I was trying to keep the chain cutting as realistic as possible to what a criminal would face when stealing something by cutting the chain. Instead of clamping the chain in a vise, as I normally do, I simulated the chain around a bike and had to use my foot to tension the chain and hold it still. Not as easy as everyone seems to think. The work piece flops around while cutting, trying to twist away from the cutting blade. With all the slack, the chain starts to oscillate while grinding, which grabs and twists the cutting blade and breaks off pieces of it. To do a good job of it you'd need TWO people. One cutter, and one to stand on the chain with both feet to hold it still. It is much harder than everyone thinks - almost an art form.
Spot on Bill, thanks for the realistic simulation. Yep, I don't really mind if a thief looses a finger or three in the process, but somehow I was concerned by the real deal testers and legit users.
In my kit I have vise-grips, one small and one big with a loop of strap & adjusting buckle attached to a ring brazed on the adjusting screw.
This way I can hold the part (ok, guessed right, chain&lock) under hefty tension with my foot. Or any other solid anchor point.
The tricky part is to cut so as the resulting tensile stress opens the cut instead of closing it alike the pads on a disk brake.
Nice day to all and, be legal be safe or soon "they" will require a registration license for portable angle grinders and specialist cut-off stones ;)
Use a drill and bit to pull the roll pins. A small drill bit will catch the seam and spin the roll pin , slowly pull it while you are spinning it. I do this on transmissions all the time.Brett
I'll give it a try, thanks! If it fails, I'll send you a bill for the broken drill bit, burned out drill motor, damaged lock, the trip to the emergency room, and a new LockLab from the resulting disaster. Oh yeah, emotional distress from the full burned up beer cooler. Stand by, I'll let you know where to send the check.😀
Bosnianbill
I'll be waiting with my checkbook
Hi Bill! I'm quite new to lockpicking, but it is thoroughly interesting. There's a huuuuge bin of discarded cores from data center cabinet doors at my office, all the same manufacturer, and i'd like to get started practicing on them. Your vids are really inspirational. Thanks! :)
Thank you! And good luck with those cabinet cylinders.
I have a very similar Kryptonite exclusively sold through Walmart. I too tried the hacksaw test and it just skittered off the chain. BUT, the plug that snaps into the body, silver colored just like on the On Guard, was not hardened and the hacksaw had no problems biting into it. A pretty big flaw imho. Maybe Bosnianbill could test that as well.
Great Bike lock. And Great review.
Dang good to see a good find for once. Thanks mr bill
Good, finally a good bike-lock and $60 that ain't going to hurt the wallet.
I love your videos. Why throw away the core? I would love to get my hands on the lock and try to remove the core. Maybe they cheaped out with a zinc actuator or something. Alot of your fans (me included) would love to see whats inside.
Those are spring pins, made out of spring steel, very hard to drill them out with a very good drill bit.
I bet the roll pin on the chain can be drilled out in 10-20 seconds! I wish you would give that a try!
I bet you could get a realllly tiny tap into the hole of those roll pins, like a 0-80 tap, and then put a screw into the tapped hole and use the screw as leverage to pull the pins out.
Wow, I don't even need a bike lock right now and yet I still want to buy this lock.
I bought this lock the other day, because of this review. i also bought one LockingPickingLawer suggested. we will see how they work out.
how have those locks fared?
@@fallback8314 fine so far
@@ZOMBIEHEADSHOTKILLER let me ask you something, i don't know if you know about these locks but do you think a 12mm chain is better/tougher than a 16mm u lock?
@@fallback8314 they both have their strengths and weaknesses.... i use both a chain, and a U lock. 2 different locks make it so they hopfully, cant use just one attack/tool. and so it hopefully takes twice as long to break through.
@@ZOMBIEHEADSHOTKILLER if you had to go with one. would you go with the 12mm chain with a 9mm/10mm padlock? (i have this kit), or would you go with the 16mm u lock? and to be clear, yes i have the 10mm mastiff chain but i also have this 12mm chain lying around and an old guard brand security 65mm padlock with what seems to be a 9mm or 10mm shackle. if you had to go with one to protect your bike, would it be the 12mm chain or 16mm u lock? weight is not a factor.
couldn't the roll pins be hack sawed on either side of the chain link entering the locks body?
They are hardened, hacksaw would have same effect as on the chain itself.
Why not drill the roll pins out? They're usually just mild spring steel, takes like 3-4 minutes.
Very cool looking bike lock 😊awesome performance👍
I woukd still register for the lock since the mechanism is ok. Should be a challenge to pick.
BlackDolphin90 Full ack. Bill, that's a nice giveaway.
stagepyro it is yes. I am interested to see who wins the prototype Bowely lock.
Nathan Martins won it and I shipped it on 4/17. You can always check that stuff on the "You WON" page of the website. Total transparency. lock-lab.com/you-won2/2/
Bosnianbill oh ok i should have checked it. I presumed it was still out for grabs when i entered the giveaway today.
The giveaway is usually pictured on the registration page and right now the Saturday one is the new Mad Bob’s paradox kit. I WISH i had more of those Bowley 543s to give away!
Heading over to your site, one day I will win, any road, nice job attacking that lock!
This was rated 70/100. What do they offer that's 100/100? A full size safe with 1ft thick walls?
I've pick a cheaper cable and smaller diameter lock but same key way and I finally got it I have a home made tools for picking
thats a scary lock, good thing they give ya lots of keys
you should try a carbide tooth sawzall blade like a millwaukee torch
WOW... And that was "just a 70 rating"!!!
I've noticed the same, pretty honest rating I think, that's a good sign on this manufacturer, because ratings used to be opposite, high ratings to crap garbages.
A 100 rating must be a mig welder where you just weld your bike to the stand!
Well, yeah!
have you tried the "new" carbide saws-all blades on any locks lately? I think that would be a test if they are hardened parts or not. Also the battery and even 60v battery 4 1/2 grinder with 1/8" think cutting disks are made to cut steel vs a die grinder.
I'm going to have to pick one up for the ladders on my truck, only question would be how do the pins hold up to a drill. I might consider replacing them with a steel drive pin.
If lock picking lawyer can't pick this it would be a great bike lock for $60
Well he tried and he did pick it - but unless you're tying your car with it, I seriously doubt anybody's going to open this on the street.
Surprised you didnt try a sawzall and try cutting the roll pins holding in the chain link. Its looks like you could fit the blade in the gap on both sides and cut the pin. Unless im missing something.
What about a hacksaw through the role pin that holds the chain to the lock body? There looks like enough room for it
OnGaurd should make the sleeve that goes over the chain out of the same stuff as those chaps for protection from a chainsaw, that would bind up a die grinder in a hurry and make it near impossible to cut through
Hello man how are you and your family doing in the pandemic stay safe bro grate video
I wonder how it will stand up to the LPL's large screw extractor or nut splitter. The weakest point
i think is where the chain attaches, single hollow roll pin. I think that could give fairly easily
with those tools.
Seems like you could easily remove the mushrooming with a Dremel or file, then push out the pin with a pin punch.
9:03 isn't there enough clearance to fit the hack saw blade in and just cut the role pin ?
The roll pins are hardened also. The saw would have the same effect as on the chain.
Very nice. Why did it say popcorn eater on the screen. That’s funny.
What happens if you put the grinder to the nylon cover? They could make the cover unwind in long threads that would wrap the shaft and clog it up.
10:11 yeah that sucks. i cut the tip of my thumb off a couple of weeks ago with a knife. the tip just rolled on the beam for a moment. it was so weird to watch that happen. it didnt even hurt. first..
tru story. I was learning lock picking and felt I had master master locks. And was ready to move on to harder tasks. I have baldwin locks, I dont know if all or just some have great tension. I thought it was a design flaw, trying to open it but then realised that it makes it nearly impossible to rack or random pin picking. Further more, trying to actual single pin pick this, was hard. Like I'm not at the level by any means. Could you or the Lockpicking Lawyer do it? Probably. But that isnt the average john who watches YT on how to access locks without a key.
It comes down to tolerances in the lock. High quality locks with tight tolerances don't like to bind one pin at a time. Instead, you'll get 2, 3 or even more binding all at the same time, making it REALLY hard to know which to pick first. When that happens, trial and error trying different sequences is my favored technique.
Hi Bill are there any bike locks that you would recommend?
So comparable to the Kryptonite Faghettaboudit chain or do you think it's a little less secure?
I think you could drill the roll pins with a carbide drill bit.
I have done this once in a while in my life I am a retired machinist.
I think you're right but I was trying to mimic something a thief would do. I don't think they'd take the time to neatly, and correctly remove a roll pin.
Would love to have that cut lock, it would be perfect for my shed.
No garbage Bill, send it onto LPL he will give the locking mechanism a good once over.
Thanks , very informative vid 👍🏻
Is it silicone or that butyl rubber that starts to stink once any oil touches it? Like they have on cheap tools and screwdrivers?
Great bike lock
A very cool lock buddy it seems pretty tough😊👍😊😎😊😎
Wow great lock I might buy it
I'd be happy to register for the damaged lock.
Just to play with the core.
The web sleeve is sloppy around the lock. Use a zip tie. Poke a hole through, put the zip tie through, and wrap it around the web cover. If you don't do this, then you will end up with an exposed chain scratching your bike.
Great review. The only other question I would have from the perspective of a bicycle rider is, what is the weight of the lock and chain? I realize that is not something that you normally comment in the context of lock sport, but as a guy who owns a carbon fiber bike, I would think weight would be important to you.
@ 0:29 seconds into the video.😀
I'm Me are your ears painted on?!😕
Bosnianbill maybe you talk too fast Bill?!😂
I would like to see the 100 rated bike lock. I bet it is impossible to find a way in. Wait, we can always find a way in however, if it is 33.3% more secure than the one in this video then even the dye grinder may not be able to get a chance. Please note that this is a very interesting and informative guidelines for the ultimate unbreachable god of locks. Please get Ahold of the best of the best at the 100 rating and show the magificence of the 100. I'm excited to see the difference.
What if you just took the hacksaw through the rolled pins at the chain-to-lock part after you too of the plastic and sheathe?
Hilti on the chain roll pin (backside)?I wonder how the lock itself would stand up to the Hilti firing down at the locking pin through the yellow silicone.
I tried carrying a chain and padlock on my bicycle and it was far too heavy, This one looks lighter, But it would still be a pain to carry
What about using a carbide tipped drill to drill out the roll pins?
You can hold that link with a pair of vice grips
Quick question, would it be possible to just drill out the roll pins that the easy out could not remove? It seems to me that they would probably remove it, or bind and allow extraction.
Send that Mastiff to +Lockpickinglawyer !!!
Hi, TY for your video. About 0:50 + Looks like they know, that this lock CAN be opened. But, it will need some special equipment, or skills, or time, to do that. And they think that there's very little chance that someone will use that skills to stole your bicycle. So, if that happens, they will give money back. But, chances of that will happen with some scooter are higher. Not great at all that things and their prices, but looks like good scooter prices much more money then good bicycle (not that sport overpriced models, but some good models), so that is your risk to leave your scooter without attention out of some parking.
why not cut the roll pin from the blank side as there is a very visible gap then put in screw driver and push it part way out then needle nose pliers and pull it out?
can you use the light to find different holes?
asking for a friend
LOL
That's a nice bike lock
I bought one of these on clearance at Walmart a couple weeks ago for $3!!!!!!!!!!!
Cool! Thanks!
I'd register for the lock/chain if it was available.
i lost keys to similar type of lock and put oil in roll bin and little wood screw and attached it to the Vice then I hit the lock with hammer couples time i needed to put scew back but that a roll bin left off
Damn, strong one 🙃
what about a hacksaw to the chain roll pins
i'd love to see a 100 rating from this brand
nice to see a bike lock that's not just a pile of trash and waste of money lol
Master Lock should pay attention.
I would still like to see the lock picked. great show
Believe me, if I could have picked it I would have. Those sliders are pretty tough to pick open and are about 99.9% luck.
Don't get me wrong. I have never picked sliders
Dude, I should get one of those
I don't get it, why didn't you try picking it after removing the shutterlock?
Спасибо за Видео !