How Good is Built in Exhaust?|| DIY Router Lifter 2.1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2022
- This is third modification of the router lifter, in this model I added built in exhaust and new lock. 3D Printed with PLA and TPU. Designed in Rhino 3D with Grasshopper.
To download: www.ussadesign.com
Router Lifter 1.0: • Router Lifter || 3D Pr...
Router Lifter 2.0: • 3D Printed Router Lift...
Router used:Makita RT0700C, 65mm in diameter
3D Printed Jig Used: • How to Cut Circles in ...
3D Printed Edge Guide used: • 3D Printing for Woodwo...
3D Printed Vise:
Design process: • DIY Small Vise Build |...
New amechanism: • Quick Release Drill Pr...
3D Printed tool for thread inserts used: • How to use thread inse...
To download 3d files check: ussadesign.com/products
Instagram: / ussa_design
Patreon page: / ussa
3d printers used :
Artillery Sidewinder X1: amzn.to/318pRvN
FLsun Super Racer (SR)printer:https:link: flsun3d.com/
Amazon link: www.amazon.com/dp/B08F39LCG1?...
Discount code: USSA
Camera gear:
Camera: amzn.to/3tOKV6K
Camera lens: amzn.to/3cbLSAa
Second monitor: amzn.to/3tO3pUZ
Microphone: amzn.to/3fbALZM
Lights: amzn.to/3sfYWdm
#woodworking
#DIY
#3dprinting
#ender3v2
#sidewinderx1
#artilleryx1 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Wow! This is a kind of technical art with the printed parts. You make expensive equipment more affordable and truly DIY. And it really works! Very entertaining! Great filmed too. 👍🏼
Man, I almost fell into an uncontrollable ecstasy while I watched this video! It's really amazing!!!
What a wonderful project. Actually makes me wanna implement a table router in my workshop just because of his design
Excellent.
This should be part of all school education. It illustrates the results of education, hard work, and determination.
Amazing idea, very clean print. I am blown away at the technological point of this and it does the job beautifully.
You made the whole system, amazing!
First job for the Bambu X1 when it arrives: print all of your super nice tools!
nice, The 1/4 thickness of the acrylic borehole is making for a ruff air flow. You should bevel the underside of the clear acrylic router plate to help the air flow.
Absolutely stunning
Clever clever CLEVER from idea stage to implementation to execution! Excellent problem solving!!
Dude am so amazeballed by this channel ! love it
You have developed amazing skills!!! Jaw dropping!!
This is what truly embracing 3D printing looks like.
Not printing benchies, but building tools, to make things.
The only thing I'd suggest here - please enclose the lift gears, as it seems like a place to collect dust.
Good damn job!! amazing work you are doing here!
Great work!!!
Impressive video, prints and delivery🎉
wonderful ideas and implementation! bravo!
Great project. Not complaining, but just want to remind about the 3d printed camera tripod. Good inspiration: "3d Printing a $10,000 Camera Arm" by Alexandre Chappel. A pedestral type tripod can also work.Also check out the bowl based fluid head tripods from Sachtler. Won't need to work like the fluid head, just be very stabl and low cost. I'm sure you can use this in your videos as well. If anyone you would be the best to design this.
Cuanto ingenio en esta persona, felicitaciones y gracias por compartir.
Great work and a really first class result.
greetings from Germany
Been watching your videos for a bit , just subscribed today. Love love the functional prints. What modeling program are you using?
Great setup. Leaving a couple of holes in insert plate may help with dust collection. Specially, on the small bits, have 2 holes in front and behind the bit will let bottom dust port suck out dusts in none through cuts.
Mega cool!
That's crazy smart....🤯🌪️👍
Вы очень крутой! Поразительные приспособления. Вдохновляют вашим каналом.
you should make that locking knob mechanism accessible from the top too. Worm gears perhaps?
Very nice work
Amazing! very inspiring. What brand of filament do you use for your parts?
Yup i love extracting dust out the bottom. But your hole needs to be about 50% to twice the size of the bit your are using. It also helps if you use up spiral bits to pull the dust into the router.
That's incorrect, as spiral bits can be both downcut and upcut. So, you want a downcut bit to pull chips towards the router.
@@bernardtarver except the router is inverted a down cut pushes chips away from the router regardless of the orientation. An upcut pulls chips towards router regardless of the routers orientation.
@@bernardtarver The router is upside down. The bit that you put into it will also be upside down. Upcut bits cut towards the router and downcut bits cut away from the router regardless the orientation of the router itself. OP is correct, you would want an upcut bit.
@@Guardian_Arias You're right; I meant upcut.
Nice!
Is there any issue with the top plate warping or not being flat enough?
Do the plans come with instructions / recommended print settings?
nice work
There should be downwards-spiraling bits that direct the chips towards the dust collection instead of shooting them to the side (although that might cause issues with tearout)
There are downward cutting bits which are actually upward cutting bits - you have to remember that normal router orientation is motor side up.
Wery coool!!!!!!
Parabéns você pretende comercializar os acessórios. Sim porque, nem todos dominam a arte de imprimir projetos próprios . Pense nisso.
Just a quick tip for a cleaner print with less supports, Print a TPU insert and do a filment change at the overhang layer and insert the TPU insert, you'll get a much cleaner print without that nasty overhang clean up
Can you explain that more? Are you including the gap the insert will be in the slicer for the supports?
No you don't need to tell the slicer anything, you just need to program a filament change which would stop the printer at the layer height you need then take the TPU insert you would've printed previously you would place it into the hole. then resume print. the TPU will act as another build surface basically.
@@boardinrider oh so instead of bridging you place the insert.. ok I think I get it. Any videos of this being done? I have a model I made that had a big 8 inch bridging area. It works for my purpose but I have it set up to do 6 layers of crisscrossing layers to eventually make it solid.
@@zombieno1 unfortunately I do not, but TPU works well with PETG and PLA, havent had much success with ABS.
Gonna save this for when I get my printer up and running again.
Seems better than spending $400 on a lift
Excelente diseño
Always wanted one of these, just ordered a new router for this so going to get the prints going, would PETG be better than PLA for this kind of print?
Me gustó, quiero saber si se está comercializando y donde puedo comprarlo
Could u Show us what are the differents between the older and new prints?
What is that black powder you use to make i glide.. charcoal
Hi, excellent work. Wich software do use for planning?
Great design. Which parts are TPU?
Which 3d print are you using
Hi, what plastic and 3d printer you use?
The legend says this man himself is created by a 3D printer
Which IDEX printer would you recommend?
In your latest video you made a knob that looked like a spider web, maybe you could make the inside plate of the router table like that for better dust collection?
This is fucking brilliant!
Это просто охренеть! Ты крутой!
Make one for the incra/jessem router lift!
I see you're using Rhino with Grasshopper to design your parts. I too was doing the same thing, until I (re)discovered FreeCAD. I use RealThunder's LinkStage3 branch of FreeCAD. It's a far more natural fit with solid modeling rather than the oodles and oodles of wires you have to wrangle when working with Grasshopper. In fact, I use FreeCAD together with Rhino because Rhino3D is by far the more powerful surface modeler. But I use FreeCAD for when the task at hand calls for parametric solid modeling, such as the many clamp iterations you seem to be having trouble with.
Обожаю смотреть его видео. Очень качественно снято, наглядно. А вот изделия вызывают сомнения, власти к гнется, наверняка люфты безумные.
Пластик гнётся, но куда без него теперь? Лить из чугуна, обратно в 19 век?
👍👍👍
Hello, can I buy the models themselves to print them myself?
SERIOUSLY?!?!? I love that you are continuing to improve this design. But I JUST finished printing out the parts of the previous version a few days ago. I haven't even put them together yet.
All joking aside, nice work on the latest iteration, some great improvements here
Thats why Im waiting until he is done with revisions lol
You should do a video showing either the build or giving your thoughts about the lift.
I am not sure I want to know the hours of printing the lift requires.
Nhìn đã thật! 😱
How about a design for a circular saw, or make a electric planer into a jointer planer?
What are the dimensions for printing?
Hi, just bought your model and it looks great. Although some parts take a very long time to print. As the base, it takes 26 hours @ 80 mm/s (for most people who print at 60 even more). Isn't it wise to split those parts? I had a failed print after 15 hours of printing, which is a big waste of material. In general, very long prints are more prone to flaws... Thanks
Hey Amazon, since you been printing the model, could you please tell me how tall the whole construction is? Best including the router in the measurement... id really like to Build it, but i need to know if it fits first :)
Thinking about getting a 3D printer, partly because of this channel. Do you have any recommendations on one?
Ender 3 s1 pro going to be the most affordable out of the box printer without having to mod and mess with your printer. Or you can wait a littlr bit for the new bamboo 3d printer its more expensive but its so high tech you domt need to learn anything it does everything for you
@@Kenneth91619 i have a little money to spend on it. Maybe around $1000.
@@buffalojones341 I tentatively recommend the Bambu Labs X1-Carbon. Pre-release and Kickstarter backer reviews of it have been positive across the board, with some annoyances like noise and Bambu Labs' rather closed ecosystem of parts. If you want something super reliable, albeit slow compared to modern CoreXY printers, the Prusa MK3S+ is a solid bet, around $1000.
Second for the Prusa mk3s. I have had mine since it was a mk3, upgraded with new printable parts. Solid in every way, designed to be modded.
@@buffalojones341 Bambu wait for the Bambu its same price range as the prusa but is 100 times better and is an actual professional product. Prusa are like hobby level products and you still need to mess with it and mod it and learn a bunch of tedious stufd that will keep you from woodworking or prototyping. Dont listen to the modders unless you plan on using it to make a bunch of trinkets that dont serve any purpose besides enjoyment. Taking the time to fix a new machine to work like you intent it to by modding it will cost you more, give you headaches and keep you from your work flow. I only got into 3d printing to help me make my owm affordable prototypes for my business. I dont care to tinker with a new machine or mod it. I want and expect a new product to work perfect out of the box. The Bambu offers the closest thing to that without having to go and buy a industrial grade printer costs 7k or more. If you want to play 3d printing then listen to modders they know how to do it but if your a professional looking for a cost effective solution through 3d printing you dont want to me messing with these low grade printers that come messed up 90% of the time.
Search for solutions is incredibly funny
The hose T print is maybe not so ideal, a Y adapter should have less pressure lose, since it has less turbulences.
Ist there anyone who has printed it and can tell me how tall the complete construction is? (if the router is compleatly down)
u should change the T-square to a Y-square u will get 15-25% more vaccum
Be cool if you designed with stepper motor to raise and lower it
One thing to note with this design. It does not work with the Dewalt DW618 2 1/4 Hp router. The router doesnt even fit within the base let alone inside the sliding insert. Will need to work on scaling this somehow to get it to work. Just unfortunate that i did not realize this until after the base was fully printed.
Try it with timber instead of mdf, watch it block up with the long grain of wood in no time
Perfect! ...for piddlers-
Make the lock accessible from the top too
Not as satisfactory as I expected given the amount of work put into the 3d printing process.
Are you using a shopvac or a dust collector?
"Not as satisfying as I expected given the amount of work put into the 3D printing process." ??? 😳
How much work do you put into 3D printing process? After purchase, you will receive the parts in .stl files that you import into the slicer (this takes a few seconds). You set the parameters for the printer, insert the filament and start printing after a few minutes. Yes, printing takes some time, but you are not tied to the printer and you can do whatever you want while printing. So where do you see the large amount of work please? After all, the gentleman who offers it (doesn't force it!) has already done that for you. 😎
@@allimco419 i don't think my statement implied that I was gonna do it as well. While I was watching the video I've come to expectations but weren't fully met by the end of the video. I was just commenting on HIS problem, process and solution. as you can see he measured, modeled, printed, and repeated the process a few times and still didn't collect as much dust as wanted.
@@aaronalquiza9680 For one thing, you didn't indicate that you were commenting on HIS problem and that's why it sounded like a general problem. And then, that's a normal development after all. Try to understand that he invented it mainly for himself and did not have a team of professional technicians and designers around him. The fact that something doesn't work the first time is not only the domain of do-it-yourselfers, but often even professionals. The difference is that the home handyman thinks and fixes the mistake, or remodels it himself. If a professional team makes a mistake, it is usually only discovered when the product is on the market and those who already have it have to put up with it. If the team of professionals then corrects the error, the next customers who buy it will pay for it. And then there is one more factor - someone enjoys it and does it with love because it fulfills him and brings him satisfaction. Unfortunately, many critics cannot understand this, but they are very good at criticizing and mentoring the work of others 🙂
@@allimco419 you assumed i was talking about end users. you started asking about MY process and explaining how an end user has it easy because all they have to do is buy and print the files that others spent time doing.
you thought i was commenting about a general problem with R&D, but now say that this project is FOR HIM. Doesn't that agree with my comment that i was referring to HIS experience and not mine or in general?
i'm offering a criticism and asked a question. shopvac vs dust collector? because this CAN INCREASE the suction even if the 3D printed adapter is not perfectly modeled. ive failed a few times in designing my dust collection, and learned the hard way that static pressure was more important than air volume for a router table setup.
Over engineering... Finding problems because it's made out of plastic... Then over engineer a solution for it.
Locking the router locks completely a hustle...
You tried... It's not the right solution for the problem...
All metal Jigs like this costs 20$
Therese a point that a project loses it logical existence... This one reached that point.
are you talking about the drilling jig? or the router lift itself? Because I don't think I've ever seen an all metal router lift for $20
3d printing in Petg or PC can be better then metal counter parts because they can take mor3 abuse without deforming and can take a good amount of heat tolerance. A PC hook can hold up 987lbs for reference
@@Kenneth91619 Yeah, the problem is USSA printed it in PLA. PLA is really the wrong material for anything that needs impact resistance, heat resistance, or 'toughness'. CF-Nylon or CF-PC would both be great choices for this application.
@@theglowcloud2215 100% agree with you. Not to mention the joy and good feel of making your own tools and parts verse buying chinese goods. I can tell he enjoys the challenge that comes with designing these parts.
@@theglowcloud2215 But nothing and no one prevents you from printing the parts from PETG or from another filament that you think will be better for this use 🙂
I really wanted to build your lift, then I noticed it won't fit in my small table. Unlimited width, but it's not very deep. Such a shame, I really like it a lot!
Thank you! The new design will have ability to detach the top plate and print the main bottom mechanism separately, then attach it to any material or size top plate or directly to the table top, this will allow it to print on much smaller printers
@@ussadesign thanks so much for your answer, this sounds great! But I phrased it poorly. My printer is is fine, the table I use for the router is limited to ~120mm in one axis (I use one of these adjustable workbenches and are limited by the opening, I live in a small appartement and can't use a proper table).
I'm still intrigued by the dust collection and think about buying it anyway :)
New model is going to have much better exhaust system, and about a week ot two after publishing router lifter, I will publish a table design for it, build from dowels, top surface and 3d printed joints, this router lifter is basically for this exact purpose-for small workshops limited in space, check my instagram I might publish pictures of the new model today
@@ussadesign ha, followed :) I'm not sure the design can be slimmed down enough to fit the space, but I'd be happy to be wrong here. Will this be a separate, new design or an "update" for this one (like v1 to v2.1)?
its going to be an update
The only way this video could be better is if it didn’t have the annoying music 😊
.
That thing really sucks
Artificial video. No lanuage. Maybe technically perfect, but boring.
Omg. You can buy things like that. But it's easier and cheaper to buy a 3d printer and filament, to design all the parts and testing it. Some of these videos are just waisting time.
This project totally sucks.
Love practical 3D printing and how nice you do it 💪!! Got also such projects on my 😋