Thanks again for posting Dave. Although fairly new to this technique, I find panning left to right helps when looking at the frames in post (I'm using Hugin). My early attempts panning right to left made that more difficult. I also use a Pixel Pro remote release to ensure steady shots. So far, I haven't tried a 2-tier panorama, although I'm thinking your geared tripod head would make that a lot easier. For landscape photography, in your experience, how close does an object in the foreground need to be to necessitate compensating with an offset camera mount for the no parallax point?
Thanks for watching. I think how close the distance needs to be will depend upon the software you’re using and the focal length and type of lens you are using. The blue pan at Flatford I show in the video was an absolute bugger to stitch even though I’d found the nodal point of the lens (35mm) but it would be a lot easier now. That was shot in 2010 and stitched using PTGui. In the end I stitched it in photoshop. I would say about 10 feet is your limit. Any closer and you would need to find the nodal point or stitch it manually.
Looking at your setup for the panoramic you shot it looked to me that the pivot point was lined up with the body and not with the nodal point of the lens. Was that just due to the camera perspective or is Lightroom tolerant of the errors this can create. I am also curious about how much time it took for Lightroom to blend the images.
It’s lined up with the body. Unless you have something really close (maybe 5 feet or so) it doesn’t seem to make any difference now. I think the perspective controls seem to align everything. If you go into photoshop with a few shots from the same place and look at auto align it makes a great job of it and LR is the same. As far as how long it took I’d say about 30 seconds. That will depend on your computer though.
Really interesting history Dave
Enjoyed your instruction. I will head out soon to do my own pano.
Well done Dave
Great video Dave. I have been meaning to have a go at panorama's for a while so great inspiration, thanks.
Thanks Barry, glad you found it useful
Thanks again for posting Dave. Although fairly new to this technique, I find panning left to right helps when looking at the frames in post (I'm using Hugin). My early attempts panning right to left made that more difficult. I also use a Pixel Pro remote release to ensure steady shots. So far, I haven't tried a 2-tier panorama, although I'm thinking your geared tripod head would make that a lot easier. For landscape photography, in your experience, how close does an object in the foreground need to be to necessitate compensating with an offset camera mount for the no parallax point?
Thanks for watching. I think how close the distance needs to be will depend upon the software you’re using and the focal length and type of lens you are using. The blue pan at Flatford I show in the video was an absolute bugger to stitch even though I’d found the nodal point of the lens (35mm) but it would be a lot easier now. That was shot in 2010 and stitched using PTGui. In the end I stitched it in photoshop. I would say about 10 feet is your limit. Any closer and you would need to find the nodal point or stitch it manually.
Looking at your setup for the panoramic you shot it looked to me that the pivot point was lined up with the body and not with the nodal point of the lens. Was that just due to the camera perspective or is Lightroom tolerant of the errors this can create. I am also curious about how much time it took for Lightroom to blend the images.
It’s lined up with the body. Unless you have something really close (maybe 5 feet or so) it doesn’t seem to make any difference now. I think the perspective controls seem to align everything. If you go into photoshop with a few shots from the same place and look at auto align it makes a great job of it and LR is the same. As far as how long it took I’d say about 30 seconds. That will depend on your computer though.