You need at least a 50C battery pack. Your pack is already ruined with the heat of solder. There probally 3A laptop batteries. 3x4 is 12A. Its not voltage thats welds its current. Those cheap niclel strips are steel with a coating. Use a magnet on them. Start with junk, end with junk. And quit repeating yourself. Your confusing yourself. Stay focused.
Hey what kind of battery are you using? You need to use a Lipo battery that can deliver at least 200A current surge. Use 5500 mah battery with at least 50c/80c discharge rating. I'm using a 5500 mah Lipo battery with 60c/120c rating and it spot welds .2mm at 40 setting with no problem.
@@simplyfocus9937 I think that is your problem. Most Lifepo4 batteries typically have a lower discharge rating ( 100 -120A) is average. For a spot welder you need typically 200 - 300A instantaneous current to spot weld. You might try using a 4s Lipo battery with at least a 50C or higher rating to deliver 200 - 400A instantaneous current. I use a 4s 5500 mah lipo with a 60C continuous discharge rating and the welds it produces at a setting of 25 to 30 is more than adequate.
I commented on your other video before I had seen this one. I suggest you inspect the board from the bottom side, particularly by the negative input terminal. If you watch the video closely you can see a flash come from that area, and that's an area that my spot welder failed. the PCB is double sided and both sides are used for the same paths in high current areas, so it may still be welding with one side of the pcb having acted as a fuse, and the other likely being soon behind if that is the case. After I switched to the maxwell ultracapacitors, the wires visibly jump when welding, and when turning it up you have to have a nice hard physical connection with the probes smashing the strip to the cell or it will just blast holes in your strip. I highly suggest adding whatever capacitance you can across the input. I understand that not everybody has giant 400F capacitors laying around, but hopefully you have some scrap power supplies etc you can salvage a mass from, wire them all up in parallel and stick them on, try to do a comparative before and after. I think that impulse discharge ability will make a great difference. But like I commented on the other video, you reach PCB failure before the MOSFETs give out. I look forward to seeing your followup.
If you're putting a lot of force down on the probes you're reducing the power of the welds. I know it sounds counterintuitive but it requires a certain amount of pressure thats just above a resting the probes on the nickel. That is if your issue isn't the gap between the nickel and the cells from the holders
@@ericklein5097 reducing power, as in a measurable product of voltage and current? Or reducing the effectiveness of the weld by distributing the current amongst a larger area and in turn distributing the heat over a larger area?
I commented on his other video before I had seen this comment. I tried mine on a 430 Farad bank of Maxwells, and it welds tremendously better but ultimately the PCB has failed in multiple places, I have yet to kill the MOSFETs though.
The nickel included with these spot welders is garbage. Usually 0.1mm nickel plated steel which has a much higher resistance so its much easier to spot weld. I've been looking into this board and the JQ-DHJ...or maybe the BIRFC. My SeeSii Lipo based powerbank style spot welder took a shit on me and SeeSii has been useless in helping me. Do you have a clamp meter to measure the current off the cells? My A123's test at 95%+ capacity at 0.5C (8P pack tested at 12A) but I think the internal resistance is definitely above the original 6 milliohms. I'm doing some DC voltage drop tests to get a rough idea of DC IR but it's hard to get a good number because of the way voltage is with LiFeP04. Very few spot welders have the power to do 0.20mm. You need about 75 to 100 Joules or 1000 to 1200 amps. Only the Kweld and Malectrics really have the power to properly do 0.20mm. The new Sequre SW-1 looks like it is capable with the right power source. The other power options are SPIM08HP cells, Headway 38120HP's or capacitors. When I have the money I plan on doing a capacitor bank with 3000F Maxwells in a 6S configuration or a 2S if I decide to use a board that works with 5V.
You need a battery that deliver more amps, you are using normal 18650 4p4s which are low amp draw and that can be bad for the batteries. Try car batteries or like me 2x 3S TURNIGY rc batteries connected paralell to safely deliver 20 amp to this welder!!
Oh man... weak is everything around that welder... battery, cables... You need 1kA and it won't happen with this setup, however welder can manage 1kA easily.
@hunter.on.channel.19 The battery 🔋 was the problem. When I changed to a better battery and better cable, everything was fine. I was overseas with a better battery, and this device saved me a lot of money
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You need at least a 50C battery pack. Your pack is already ruined with the heat of solder. There probally 3A laptop batteries. 3x4 is 12A. Its not voltage thats welds its current. Those cheap niclel strips are steel with a coating. Use a magnet on them. Start with junk, end with junk. And quit repeating yourself. Your confusing yourself. Stay focused.
@@lkkeowee i did change the battery 🔋 and the device worked beautifully. Check out my other video
Hey what kind of battery are you using? You need to use a Lipo battery that can deliver at least 200A current surge. Use 5500 mah battery with at least 50c/80c discharge rating. I'm using a 5500 mah Lipo battery with 60c/120c rating and it spot welds .2mm at 40 setting with no problem.
I was using Lifepo4 battery 🔋they weren't good. They did start my 2009 Honda pilot
@@simplyfocus9937 I think that is your problem. Most Lifepo4 batteries typically have a lower discharge rating ( 100 -120A) is average. For a spot welder you need typically 200 - 300A instantaneous current to spot weld. You might try using a 4s Lipo battery with at least a 50C or higher rating to deliver 200 - 400A instantaneous current. I use a 4s 5500 mah lipo with a 60C continuous discharge rating and the welds it produces at a setting of 25 to 30 is more than adequate.
🤣when that battery popped you made me laugh hard ,just setting mine up first time now,,,
I weld 0.2 with the same board at 15!! What is your power spurce?
I commented on your other video before I had seen this one. I suggest you inspect the board from the bottom side, particularly by the negative input terminal. If you watch the video closely you can see a flash come from that area, and that's an area that my spot welder failed. the PCB is double sided and both sides are used for the same paths in high current areas, so it may still be welding with one side of the pcb having acted as a fuse, and the other likely being soon behind if that is the case. After I switched to the maxwell ultracapacitors, the wires visibly jump when welding, and when turning it up you have to have a nice hard physical connection with the probes smashing the strip to the cell or it will just blast holes in your strip. I highly suggest adding whatever capacitance you can across the input. I understand that not everybody has giant 400F capacitors laying around, but hopefully you have some scrap power supplies etc you can salvage a mass from, wire them all up in parallel and stick them on, try to do a comparative before and after. I think that impulse discharge ability will make a great difference. But like I commented on the other video, you reach PCB failure before the MOSFETs give out. I look forward to seeing your followup.
If you're putting a lot of force down on the probes you're reducing the power of the welds. I know it sounds counterintuitive but it requires a certain amount of pressure thats just above a resting the probes on the nickel. That is if your issue isn't the gap between the nickel and the cells from the holders
@@ericklein5097 reducing power, as in a measurable product of voltage and current? Or reducing the effectiveness of the weld by distributing the current amongst a larger area and in turn distributing the heat over a larger area?
The problem is you need to peel off the protective layer on the bottom acrylic.
👍
you can try a 3000f type supercapacitor coupled to 12v. you'll see how strong it is, with the nickel you use it's no more than 10ms.
I commented on his other video before I had seen this comment. I tried mine on a 430 Farad bank of Maxwells, and it welds tremendously better but ultimately the PCB has failed in multiple places, I have yet to kill the MOSFETs though.
Where to place it
@@simplyfocus9937 you can use 5 supercapacitors 2.8v 3000 fara. 5 x 2.8 = 14v. Super strong!
what voltage source does it use?
9v to 15V or 16v
@@simplyfocus9937 does it use an 1865 type battery?
@doityourself5387 you can use any type of batteries as long it is a good one. I used lithium Lifepo4 in another video
The nickel included with these spot welders is garbage. Usually 0.1mm nickel plated steel which has a much higher resistance so its much easier to spot weld.
I've been looking into this board and the JQ-DHJ...or maybe the BIRFC. My SeeSii Lipo based powerbank style spot welder took a shit on me and SeeSii has been useless in helping me.
Do you have a clamp meter to measure the current off the cells? My A123's test at 95%+ capacity at 0.5C (8P pack tested at 12A) but I think the internal resistance is definitely above the original 6 milliohms. I'm doing some DC voltage drop tests to get a rough idea of DC IR but it's hard to get a good number because of the way voltage is with LiFeP04.
Very few spot welders have the power to do 0.20mm. You need about 75 to 100 Joules or 1000 to 1200 amps. Only the Kweld and Malectrics really have the power to properly do 0.20mm. The new Sequre SW-1 looks like it is capable with the right power source.
The other power options are SPIM08HP cells, Headway 38120HP's or capacitors. When I have the money I plan on doing a capacitor bank with 3000F Maxwells in a 6S configuration or a 2S if I decide to use a board that works with 5V.
You'll also benefit from cleaning the terminals of your cells.
It is a lot of cell , more than 2000 cells
Maletric spot welder is very good. I have one. No complaints from me.
You need a battery that deliver more amps, you are using normal 18650 4p4s which are low amp draw and that can be bad for the batteries. Try car batteries or like me 2x 3S TURNIGY rc batteries connected paralell to safely deliver 20 amp to this welder!!
You need a lead acid battery for that.
It does work with a very good battery 🔋
bro, your battery is going to short out and catch on fire. make sure you always have an ABC fire extinguisher near by at all times.
The battery is fine. The video is a year ago. I had uploaded other video on that matter
Try a larger battery source.
Oh man... weak is everything around that welder... battery, cables... You need 1kA and it won't happen with this setup, however welder can manage 1kA easily.
Yes, I agreed. The battery was very weak. Check out the other video. This is a very good spot welder
Power source?! Use a car battery max 45Ah if new
The battery was 12v made of lithium Lifepo4 4s4p, It started my Honda pilot 2009 6 cylinders
You keep saying that that battery started your car?But your problem is definitely your battery
@hunter.on.channel.19 The battery 🔋 was the problem. When I changed to a better battery and better cable, everything was fine. I was overseas with a better battery, and this device saved me a lot of money
@hunter.on.channel.19 when I changed the battery, the device worked 💪
And use pure nickel strips not that plated rubbish