Thank you for this, very helpful as I'm learning how to use my F1 Ultra! I'd really like to figure out how to print some blue colors, have you found and decent settings/parameters to do that?
I would repeat the same process for a test array using the diode laser. You'll have to hoan your settings a bit, but you can get some good color with that as well.
Chère Sarah, désolé de ne pouvoir vous écrire en anglais. Concernant votre démonstration, je suis resté sur ma fain, car je voudrais aller au-delà de simples couleurs délavées. J'aimerais imprimer des desseins et photos avec des couleurs vives, et là on est loin du compte... La machine est-elle assez puissante pour cela ? En tout cas, merci pour vos explications et recevez au-delà du pouce en l'air et abonnement, mes cordiales salutations de France.
Good start but I disagree with some of your comments. The Ultra diode heats the metal faster and better than the IR/fiber and will produce a much more vibrant color array than you will ever get with the IR. Deep blues to bright maroon reds. You are selling yourself and the viewers short by not seeing and showing what a diode will do on SS. Also a test grid can be very misleading since the gradual and continual increase in heating of the blank as it continues to engrave each square means that they are not all starting from the same temperature. Try the setting from one of the last squares engraved on a cold piece and they will not match the ones done on the grid that was already very hot. This is even more a factor when using the diode because it does heat the metal much faster. IR for boring shades of gold, brown and black. Diode for many vibrant and pastel shades across the rainbow.
I'd really like to figure out how to print some blue colors... you say the diode does that, can you give me some settings/parameters to do that and for other colors? (using the F1 Ultra) Thanks.
@@gregparker5732 that's still too many variables for me, ha. I'm a beginner, for me it's like throwing darts dizzy and blindfolded, seriously. Could you please give me a starting point? I've got the F1 Ultra, I've got some stainless steel cards .8mm thick. Diode? If you were going to run a test grid on these to try and get a full spectrum of colors, what would your power range start at, min - max, what would your speed range start at, min to max? And I see there's some variables with how many lines per cm, what would you start that at? Please and thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge, huge help for me !
Thank you for this, very helpful as I'm learning how to use my F1 Ultra! I'd really like to figure out how to print some blue colors, have you found and decent settings/parameters to do that?
I would repeat the same process for a test array using the diode laser. You'll have to hoan your settings a bit, but you can get some good color with that as well.
Hi great video. Can I use the xTool P2S CO2 laser for this?
You can mark some metal but you won't get the same results.
@@SarahVanderkooy Thanks
Chère Sarah, désolé de ne pouvoir vous écrire en anglais. Concernant votre démonstration, je suis resté sur ma fain, car je voudrais aller au-delà de simples couleurs délavées. J'aimerais imprimer des desseins et photos avec des couleurs vives, et là on est loin du compte... La machine est-elle assez puissante pour cela ? En tout cas, merci pour vos explications et recevez au-delà du pouce en l'air et abonnement, mes cordiales salutations de France.
Good start but I disagree with some of your comments. The Ultra diode heats the metal faster and better than the IR/fiber and will produce a much more vibrant color array than you will ever get with the IR. Deep blues to bright maroon reds. You are selling yourself and the viewers short by not seeing and showing what a diode will do on SS. Also a test grid can be very misleading since the gradual and continual increase in heating of the blank as it continues to engrave each square means that they are not all starting from the same temperature. Try the setting from one of the last squares engraved on a cold piece and they will not match the ones done on the grid that was already very hot. This is even more a factor when using the diode because it does heat the metal much faster. IR for boring shades of gold, brown and black. Diode for many vibrant and pastel shades across the rainbow.
I'd really like to figure out how to print some blue colors... you say the diode does that, can you give me some settings/parameters to do that and for other colors? (using the F1 Ultra) Thanks.
@@hopeforamerica1714 Run a test grid, too many variables to give you a answer for your piece with your design and your laser.
@@gregparker5732 that's still too many variables for me, ha. I'm a beginner, for me it's like throwing darts dizzy and blindfolded, seriously. Could you please give me a starting point? I've got the F1 Ultra, I've got some stainless steel cards .8mm thick. Diode? If you were going to run a test grid on these to try and get a full spectrum of colors, what would your power range start at, min - max, what would your speed range start at, min to max? And I see there's some variables with how many lines per cm, what would you start that at? Please and thank you!
@@hopeforamerica1714 Find something 3 times as thick to start with. The high heat will wrap cards.
@@gregparker5732 so 2-3 mm thick stainless steel to start with?
There is no engraving in this video, thats for start!