Yixiang will make the following changes: - replacing the cables again with flexible busbars - supply additional screws for the PCBs while paying attention to the insulation of the tracks - paying greater attention to the BMS wiring connectors - overlong circuit breaker scews: apparently these are the original ones coming with the breaker - replacing screen mounting option with smaller brackets like in V1 of their box if still available (more a JKBMS thing) - about the function of the circuit breaker, I will do more testing and provide an additional short video if necessary
In my excitement to order my case/cells last night I didn't realize V2 was a different link..... *DOH* Seems like there are few things done better on the V1, should I be concerned? *buyers remorse*
@ChrisEpler ask them to sending the new busbars instead the cables. It all depends... If you are regularly pushing 200A through this battery, I would consider upgrading the cables. If you have moderate currents ~100A it will be fine as it is.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think I'll be receiving v1, that used the bus bars right? Just the breaker is crap ya? Will probably see about working in a class-T fuse in there somewhere then... I'll likely only be using it with a 3kw all-in-one for now until I consider moving up to a split-phase one later maybe but I only have 800w of panels (right now) so my growth beyond 3kw is limited realistically....wife doesn't want anything on the roof :(
@wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte. F ool
@wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte.
Andy, great analysis and greetings from Arizona. I used a thermal camera to check the operation temperatures of the front section with two of the previous version kits. I was a bit alarmed of the temperature in the front compartment (and breaker) with an ambient temperature of around 40C. Perhaps when you do the load test on these check the front area with a thermal camera. Also, if you are planning on stacking the boxes permanently, are you going to install the lids on the bottom units for additional cooling? BTW, speaking as a spectator, lets see a fire test by an electrical engineer. Call your local fire chief and ask him/her to weigh in on the quality of the extinguisher and ability to control or slow a LiFePO4 fire. They can stand-by when you get serious, they may offer you their training facility for the demonstration. After forty years of being a first responder I never met a fireman who didn't like starting and fighting fires for training. This would be an excellent demonstration and video. ~Cheers
0:30 I am waiting kinda patiently to get my 5 batteries that are supposed to be delivered tomorrow so the timing of this video is perfect. Also the cell connections are aluminum , so hitting the tops where the buss bars connect with some sandpaper and then a light coating of Noalox just to make sure there is no corrosion between the cells and buss bars. I am not sure wich version I am recieving tomorrow , but if version 2 I will be making main wiring changes before putting into production.
Hi Andy, Ken in mid Wales here, with my 3 x mason 10.5kWh battery packs, I asked Seplos to supply me cut off switches which match the ones you have in this Yixiang Kit. I asked them where I should install them and they advised between the battery and Inverter. The cables they supplied the orange ones I have used through out, with matching to extend my install and also included line fuses just to be sure. The fuse inside the Seplos kit I changed from 200A to 100A as I not draw that much from the batteries. 4k to 4.5kw which falls under 100A DC is usually OK, and as a secondary precaution I installed a second inline fuse out side the case between the cut-off swicth and battery pack. I rated this at 150A so the cut off switch is only ever going to be used as an emergency shut down under load if necessary. Cut off under load is the key here as you can see in other videos arching can occur and this type of cut off switch can help to disperse this arching effect. You should open one up and take a look, you should find a series of metal plates layered on top of each other and spaced apart. I would really like you to test these various cut-off switches to see for our selves just how good or bad they are.
I'm sure, all of your followers are waiting to test the fire extinguishers :D I've recently bought a DIY box from Docan, made by Apexium and did not discover any flaws! One thing I miss is the circuit breaker. Should I just put directly in paralell between battery packs with cable or put a circuit breaker between them? I rely on the megafuse which is inside the positive side behind the box. Many many thanks Andy for your videos, without that I would never start to build my own battery pack and go offgrid (mostly). (Zollstock! great to hear that!) Greetings from Ungarn!
Hi Andy, i did tell Yixiang (Becky) the cables where to thin in version 1 and this is a fire hazzard! I was being told i was wrong. Thank you for pointing out the hazard again! Buyers should know this. Adding the extinguisher is ok, using thicker wires should be their priority. The flexible busbars still are too THIN.
Hi Andy. I ordered two V2 batteries separately from Becky. The batteries from the first order arrived ok. So did the box. The batteries from the 2nd order arrived poorly welded! ... too little laser power! The box from the second order arrived badly damaged, but in undamaged packaging. The front side was dented by 1cm, the top side was torn at the edge where it was punctured by 6mm. In the box, there were a lot of too-thin soft cables, aluminum, very thin connections between the main connectors. In the second shipment, both epoxy insulation plates for the bottom were missing. To all complaints, Becky excuses herself that they will improve the control in the future, etc. and that I will get a discount on my next order. Basically, I should figure it out myself. So I replaced the paper aluminum plates with 100 mm2 copper ones, I had to order the missing epoxy protection at my own expense. I also replaced all the screws that were too long. With a lot of difficulty I managed to force the box to straighten out, but I don't know yet whether the BMS will work on it (due to an obvious drop in the factory in China). Do they really think we're that naive?
Hey, love your channel! Could you do a video tour showing how you have all your solar panels connected to charge up all your batteries? It’d be super interesting to see the wiring setup and how everything comes together. Thanks for all the awesome content!
I think the case is really improved. For myself, i would add a Class T fuse in the negative wire for safely super high current cut-off and not relying for that on the breaker or the BMS.
There seems to be one more difference: The previous compression plates were massive. The new one has holes in it. They claim it is for a better heat transfer, but I don't see how that is better, as no air will actually go through the holes.
I cut additional plates from 4mm steel for the front and back to increase rigidity. I put them under the edges of the batteries. But I understand that no one else will do this except me :)
Just received mine and some more comments : wire size is 4AWG (35mm2) for positive and 2x6AWG (25mm2) for negative, not enough in m'y opinion. I'll replace them with 2x4AWG (70mm2). The busbar between pôles is only 40mm2 aluminium, 50mm2 might be safer to handle 125A. The main issue is on the breaker. Contact plates are not flat and there's a very small surface on contact. I had to file contacts to recover a flat surface. Be careful tu check them before using high current. Added a piece of thick paper below PCBs to prevent contact with case and replaced 2x3 M3 screws with 2x6 countersunked M3 screws. No more risk to scratch PCB. With 14 EVA tape and plate between cells, there's a gap of about 3mm when compression plate is fully screwed. I bought 20 more EVA tape to allow compression. This is a good case but need some tweaks to be really secure and optimal.
For connecting the balance cables to the cells, i would make an extra m3 screw connection to the busbars instead of using the cell screws. This is far better, and add a small 10A inline fuse (low internal resistance) in de balance cable, so the small balance cables are protected.
37:50 The labeling on the front panel of the battery box seems to be correct. But the circuit breaker is upside down. It seems to be symmetrical so it should be possible to flip it. Although the labeling on the circuit breaker itself seems to be wrong. The tripping button only works when it is in the green "OFF" position. Perhaps the black moving part within the breaker is also upside down?
@AWESOMEGODDIVER I thought that as well but then I have checked the video and the breaker seems to have been upside down even when it was originally installed.
Andy it’s very common to get no reading on some alloys. Aluminum forms an oxide very quickly. A quick buff by HAND with 3M cloth (bear hair 😂) will remove it right before assembly
Had to explain that to an older fellow recently. I think he thought I was having a lend, until I mentioned that to weld aluminium well, you need to clean it just before welding.
Looks good enough to me that I've ordered a few of them. Was watching as close as was possible in the front compartment and thinking about reworking cables to get a T class fuse in there somewhere. They've got to go somewhere and hope I can squeeze them in? And I'm ok with the big clunky breaker, I've got a few of them myself. 160 amp instead but they make a nice disconnect switch. And to top it all off, looks like I've finally found a use for the big box of 3mm nylon screws I've got. :)
The fire extinguisher is there for certification in some countries. Wire size is a big problem and should be much larger. Breakers unless something has changed break at much higher values than shown and often only trip if there is a dead short, slight overloads can lead to trips 5 to 10 times shown value the breaker. They may well be using the very short length of the cables as a justification for the small diameter as the length is also a factor in carrying capacity. I would retrofit larger ones.
Ah, yeah, could be a compliance regulation... Yes, depending on the trip curve of the breaker, it could be higher. I don't think the length is a justification for how much current a cable can carry. That is more a voltage drop issues. 250A are 250A if the cable is long or short does not matter.
(Edited to correct typo) Just a heads up, I have now purchased my third of the older version box and they did not arrive assembled like the ones in these reviews. The only thing actually connected to the case in every box was the BMS chassis/frame. All other parts including handles and rails etc and all wiring/connectors, insulation sheets were loose and floating around inside the boxes. I stopped buying them because they were always damaged internally in some small way. eg. warped/bent rails over/unevenly tightened BMS screws etc.
@OffGridGarageAustralia sorry I meant BMS chassis (frame). It is the exact same case as yours but nothing fitted. I am disappointed that it was all loose and not fitted like yours. Even the rails for the balance wire PCB were bent. I guess they have different levels of service for different customers or something.
That circuit breaker is a surprise. All of the labelling and colours are actually correct. It just doesn't work correctly. Down should be off, showing a green label, because that's safe, disconnected. Up should be on, showing a red colour, because it is live, it is "dangerous" Up is on, and down is off. In the event of gravity bringing something into contact with the breaker, it will be mostly DOWNWARD force, turning it off. It changes to a SAFER state in the event of an unexpected, and unobserved event. Everything LOOKS correct, but the breaker is backwards internally.
The boards A & B and the cell numbers are from right to left, therefore the connector pairs 1/2 & 3/4 are from right to left also. Makes sense for them. Aldough renumber to the connectors 1-4 from left to right at the BMS is better indeed.
I think that the electrode surface is sandblasted. It looks like that and has the side effect that it oxidizes quickly in the air, which also confirms your slightly inconsistent measurements.
Circuit breakers and fuses have a fusing factor, basically the 250A rating means it can do 250A forever, but depending upon the fusing factor rating you can probably do 300A for about 30 minutes, 350A for 5 minutes, 400A for 30 seconds, 450A for 5 seconds etc...etc. obviously these numbers are just estimations, but you may be able to find a data sheet for the breaker and find out the actual ratings and response curves of the breaker, to me that breaker should only be 200A, the same maximum as the BMS, the breaker should protect the BMS, not the other way around.
We talk about the thin wires which is an issue for sure, but how about the copper traces on the jk bms? I don't think they will be much more than 25mm2 and will also run hot. Would be nice to investigate what is does under a 200A continously load.
I'm honestly looking at the Apexium vertical standing box, their v3. Display on top, comm connections on the side, battery connection on top. Would definitely save space.
So basically we now have the choice between pest and cholera... Take v1 and get a flimsy circuit breaker BUT nice flexible busbars for the front panel connections. Or take v2 and get a good circuit breaker BUT flimsy cables for the front panel connections. Personally I might still go with v1. Shame, I really wished they would have kept the great stuff from v1 and just eliminated the existing flaws (PCB board screw issue/ circuit breaker) - than we would have had a near to perfect DIY battery box...
In the Eg4 Power pro 14.3 kwh battery. I think inside it uses 2c 4awg of very short runs, but then on the outside they recommend 2/0 AWG cables to run couple feet. 250 Amp breaker. I think it's actually 1x 4awg to each 125 amp CB in parallel.
The length should not determine the cable size from a safety perspective (voltage drop, yes!). If the circuit has a 250A breaker, the cable size should be accordingly, no matter where in this circuit. We have seen this many times in other DIY and also pre-assembled batteries, that cables are usually too thin and not sized correctly.
You were worried about the cable cross sectional area, but you never checked the cross section of the original box for comparison, maybe you could measure the width and thickness of the equivalent linking bars and multiply the dimensions to get the mm2 to give the effective cross sectional area for them too.
I would be curious if you were to flip the breaker to match up = on and down =off, If the cables would reach better? Maybe it was put in wrong at the factory.
Why would they flip the terminals? Every battery I have or seen the positive is on left and negative right. So now you would have to cross if you wanted to tie it into a bank. Glad I saw this. Need to make sure get right version
Hey Andy! Do you have by any chance tested the Apexium DYI battery box? It now also comes with the JK BMS and some things are better compared to the Yixiang, like for example they use busbars instead of cables. But the downside of the Apexium kit is that you need to build pretty much the entire thing (could also be a good thing, considering the QC issues)
Flexible bus bars is a must IMHO. Plus I prefer those with a separate M3 hole for the balance cables. A 5kW inverter as a load is about 120A .... cables are just good enough.....BMS would trip at 200A....the 250A breaker is just a last resort, more like a big switch?
Those small cables remind me of the ones that come with my ELL box way to small. I changed mine to 2x25mm for the negative and 1x50mm for the positive. I really wanted flexable busbars.
Isolation. The cells can move during contraction and expansions and rub through the blue heatshrink of the cells over time. The cell case is the positive of the cell.
Hi Andy, I was wondering if the new ventilation holes were there as part of a requirement for the new fire extinguisher. Just speculation on my part, I have never seen one before. Thanks.
Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?
Sorry to take this video off topic. I have been given some 8 190w solar pv panels. I already have a grid tied system ( 8.3kw of solar pv connected to a 10kw inverter) I know no one would connect these used panels to the spare string on the 10 kw inverter. What would you suggest I use the 8 panels for? Run a hot water element to heat up a spa Buy a Grid Inverter and feed power back into the house - As im approved for FIT, so who would really notice a little more power going back. Off grid EV charger Love to hear your thoughts from sunny QLD.
Very difficult to say. If you're in AU, you're not allowed to install more solar power than stated in your agreement. Hot water or EV charger is always a good idea. Very hard to give you any advice as I'm not familiar with your system and regulations.
Considering you are compressing 2 batteries rows you need 600kgf so you need 6nm … but with 6 screw you will need only 1Nm torque on each of them to generate the total 600kgf (300 on each row).
Which BMS is better for EVE MB31. Seplos Mason or Yixiang? Both in design and software. Seems like a tough choice to me. I'm planning to put together a 4 boxes and don't know how to decide.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Save money, cost lives. Not even half a frog for me. Those cables do not comply with Australian Standard AS/NZS 3008.1.1 70mm^2 stranded copper minimum for short distance 200 A DC in an enclosed space. I'd be swapping them out for suitably rated cables. Thanks for checking it out.
It would be great to have a recommended configuration of the bms to have the best lifespan of the lfp batteries. I didn't know about minimum voltage for balancing and is there also other configuration to change from the default one?
General note about JK inverter BMS: I'm a bit scared that the positive cable of the BMS is not fused, even not on the BMS itself. It's used not only for the BMS power supply but has also a freewhelling diode directly placed between B+ and P- and a snubber circuit to reduce voltage transients when the BMS is switched off. I think that the big toroidal inductor is part of this circuit. Thats also why it has a bigger gauge wire than the balance cables. Btw not only the balance wires are much more thin, but all the balance inputs of the BMS are also "fused" with 0.1ohm SMD resistor. I think that it would be better to add a fuse on the positive cable, but I'm not sure of the right amperage: it should not break when the BMS interrupt the circuit under heavy loads (and long battery cables which add inductance)
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes I know and that's scary... the JK BMS with power wires without any fuse would never pass any certification (UL VDE, ecc) . Just search "JK bms melted balance leads" on diysolarforum to see what can happen when a short circuit happen on a non fused cable. BTW this was happened with the old stile JKBMS which has the same thin wire as balance wires for the BMS power supply. With bigger cables you can expect bigger fire :-)
I found with my V2 box that the cells weren't compressed with all the EVA foam and resin sheets. I had to add more material. Also, what torque setting for the terminals please?
Hi Andy. Are any of these DIY battery boxes prepared to install a pre-charge resistor? Or is this a feature which is maybe already integrated in modern BMSs like the JK inverter BMS (maybe I've missed something)?
@@jcgcs A fuse for the BMS? I have never seen a BMS which has a fuse, at least not an external one. I'll ask JIKONG if they have an electronic fuse which resets automatically.
Andy, 4awg = 25mm2, and looks less than 30cm run, at that tiny distance 250A on that cable will be fine, voltage drop of ~0.9% at nominal 12Vdc, and, even if taking into account the 25% buffer that /should/ exist, 313A, voltage drop is only about 1.2%, or 12v to 11.87, with loss about 42w, certainly not designed as it should be, but no, you wont need the fire dept :) Ohh, and at 48v the voltage drop is about 0.28% or 48.0 to 47.9Vdc
I don't think, the cable length is relevant when talking about current carrying capacity in circuit. 250A are 250A no matter how long the cable is. It warms up the same way, regardless the length.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia A quote that seems to say it does matter, states : "The resistance of a wire is directly proportional to its length and inversely proportional to its cross-sectional area, according to Ohm's law. This means that as the length of the wire increases, so does its resistance. Consequently, for a given current, a longer wire will generate more heat than a shorter one. This is because the electrons moving through the wire collide with the atoms of the wire, causing them to vibrate more. This increased vibration of atoms manifests as heat." So I think it matters if the cable length/cross section is not suitable for the 250 amp current it has to carry. The best way to answer is to put 250amps across the intended cable and see if it gets hot.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Heat generated per cm of cable does not matter on its length. But lets see, 200A on 25mm2 of cable 25cms long will generate 7W of heat. 50mm cable 3.5W etc.
The current carrying capacity is determined by the cross-sectional area of the conductor, the material of the conductor, and the installation conditions. It is not dependant on the length of the cable. A 0.1m 10mm² cable can carry the same current as a 10m 10mm² cable.
Hello Andi. Thanks for this great video. Your dirty glasses triggered me a bit at first. I'm curious which box I'll get. I ordered mine on 2024-08-28. Apparently this is already in Rotterdam. After your video, I'm hoping for version 1. I also think the cables in version 2 are too small. I would replace them with my own cables.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia My box arrived on Friday. Version 1 has been delivered. However, I don't have "Yixiang" printed on the front. The back wall has holes on the inside and the outer struts on the right and left are open from above. The press plate is also perforated. The two PCBs also look slightly different and only have 2 screws each with an insulated washer. However, there are still 6 holes per PCB. The plugs to the BMS were not plugged in. Flexible bus bars were included, a wide one for the connection between cells 8 and 9, also flexible. I will replace the circuit breaker from V1 with one from V2. It looks much better to me, even if I have to change something about the cables. I couldn't find the exact circuit breaker, so I chose a 200A and 250V DC which isolates up to 25 kA.
What is ideal charging voltage of lifepo4 cell 3.45 , 3.50 , 3.55 , 3.60 or 3.65 volt And what is ideal charge rating 0.1 , 0.2 , 0.5 or 1c And what is ideal discharge rating
one more excelente public service ;) Andy you said in the video about firmware V15.33 and there is only V15.32 for 200A... there is a .33 or it was a mistake? cheers mate
I always enter the tested value, then you know exactly what you have. The only reason to enter the nominal is if you want to have some extra leeway in reserve. The argument against that is if the batteries test below nominal capacity(which happens often with lower grade or older cells) you will get caught short one day and have a system failure.
Andy! Hello from Hawaii. I totally learned and pretty much copied your battery shelf design and made a 24v system about 2 years ago (8s 2p).. anyhow I live in a rain forest high humidity area, and every month or 2 the moisture messes with my battery balance wires,I just loosen the nuts on the battery, wiggle the balance cables and tighten and that fixes it.. my question is what can I spray on the battery terminals to keep out the moisture? Anybody?
I didn't used it myself but planning to: just check this out: there is a spray called "CRC" (brand) called "Soft Seal" : "long term corrosion protection for metal surfaces, seals out moisture and corrosion , leaves a dry transparent film". And also: "NO OX ID" corrosion protection grease for electrical connections. Research about how to use them properly before using, please.
Hey Andy I know you'll get to it eventually but please try to update from V15.29. I can't get mine to respond to either up or down(in a EEL box, all 4). Howard may have to warranty them for me. Anybody else having this problem of a stuck firmware on V15.29?
Yes, you can run as many balancers at the same time as you like. But if the JKBMS is not able to balance (maybe needs more time for the initial top balance at 3.45V?), there is something else wrong.
@OffGridGarageAustralia good morning 😁, i plan to build 16s lishen 280ah grade B bnew with jk bms 2a balancer. Maybe 2a is not enough, i initially plan to use a non smart balancer with 5a but now im eeying the jk smart active balancer 2a and set them both to start at 3.4-3.45v. Any recommendations? Additional jk smart balance good enough ? TY
@@aha5888 Start with the JKBMS first and see if can handle the cells. Charge to 55.2V and let it sit there until the delta is at 10mV. Check the next day, when the battery fully charges if the delta is significant higher again.
The side vent holes are needed because they are using thinner cables which gets warmer.. That's probably also the reason for having the fire extinguisher 🥴
Maybe they thought that the safety should be mounted with the writing on it reversed to respect what is written on the front of the battery?to be up on and down off
Andy, I have 16 of those twin thread terminal cells from EVE. Still awaiting delivery of the Seplos mason kit. Where can I look up the QR codes please whilst I can still access them.
You can use the QR code scanner if you have an Android phone, or enter the codes manually at the Gobelpower QR decoder website. Both links are on my website here (about half-way down): off-grid-garage.com/batteries/
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thank you Andy Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?
Yixiang will make the following changes:
- replacing the cables again with flexible busbars
- supply additional screws for the PCBs while paying attention to the insulation of the tracks
- paying greater attention to the BMS wiring connectors
- overlong circuit breaker scews: apparently these are the original ones coming with the breaker
- replacing screen mounting option with smaller brackets like in V1 of their box if still available (more a JKBMS thing)
- about the function of the circuit breaker, I will do more testing and provide an additional short video if necessary
hello Andy and when do you think will possible to buy upgraded version?
In my excitement to order my case/cells last night I didn't realize V2 was a different link..... *DOH* Seems like there are few things done better on the V1, should I be concerned? *buyers remorse*
@ChrisEpler ask them to sending the new busbars instead the cables.
It all depends... If you are regularly pushing 200A through this battery, I would consider upgrading the cables. If you have moderate currents ~100A it will be fine as it is.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think I'll be receiving v1, that used the bus bars right? Just the breaker is crap ya? Will probably see about working in a class-T fuse in there somewhere then... I'll likely only be using it with a 3kw all-in-one for now until I consider moving up to a split-phase one later maybe but I only have 800w of panels (right now) so my growth beyond 3kw is limited realistically....wife doesn't want anything on the roof :(
So maybe replacing the breaker for a 125 amp version is an idea?
We need to test those fire extinguishers.
With 250A @ 21 mm²? You may try this. I do not. I know what happens.
@wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte. F ool
@wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte.
@@H8T3R Maus Stixx Pro
Yes, Andy 2 absolutely needs to test those fire extinguishers 🔥🔥🔥
Andy, great analysis and greetings from Arizona. I used a thermal camera to check the operation temperatures of the front section with two of the previous version kits. I was a bit alarmed of the temperature in the front compartment (and breaker) with an ambient temperature of around 40C. Perhaps when you do the load test on these check the front area with a thermal camera. Also, if you are planning on stacking the boxes permanently, are you going to install the lids on the bottom units for additional cooling? BTW, speaking as a spectator, lets see a fire test by an electrical engineer. Call your local fire chief and ask him/her to weigh in on the quality of the extinguisher and ability to control or slow a LiFePO4 fire. They can stand-by when you get serious, they may offer you their training facility for the demonstration. After forty years of being a first responder I never met a fireman who didn't like starting and fighting fires for training. This would be an excellent demonstration and video. ~Cheers
If I buy this box, all the cables need to be replaced. Thank you Andy for the perfect video for the DYI battery.
Thank you, they will replace the cables with flexible busbars again and make other changes as outlined in the first comment under the video.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your generous support!
I just order 2 Kit's V2 last week. Nice that Andy made a video. Thanks
good
LOL. Remembering the polishing days and how particular you were about it. Now look at you Andy
0:30 I am waiting kinda patiently to get my 5 batteries that are supposed to be delivered tomorrow so the timing of this video is perfect.
Also the cell connections are aluminum , so hitting the tops where the buss bars connect with some sandpaper and then a light coating of Noalox just to make sure there is no corrosion between the cells and buss bars.
I am not sure wich version I am recieving tomorrow , but if version 2 I will be making main wiring changes before putting into production.
Hi Andy, Ken in mid Wales here, with my 3 x mason 10.5kWh battery packs, I asked Seplos to supply me cut off switches which match the ones you have in this Yixiang Kit. I asked them where I should install them and they advised between the battery and Inverter. The cables they supplied the orange ones I have used through out, with matching to extend my install and also included line fuses just to be sure. The fuse inside the Seplos kit I changed from 200A to 100A as I not draw that much from the batteries. 4k to 4.5kw which falls under 100A DC is usually OK, and as a secondary precaution I installed a second inline fuse out side the case between the cut-off swicth and battery pack. I rated this at 150A so the cut off switch is only ever going to be used as an emergency shut down under load if necessary. Cut off under load is the key here as you can see in other videos arching can occur and this type of cut off switch can help to disperse this arching effect. You should open one up and take a look, you should find a series of metal plates layered on top of each other and spaced apart. I would really like you to test these various cut-off switches to see for our selves just how good or bad they are.
I'm sure, all of your followers are waiting to test the fire extinguishers :D I've recently bought a DIY box from Docan, made by Apexium and did not discover any flaws! One thing I miss is the circuit breaker. Should I just put directly in paralell between battery packs with cable or put a circuit breaker between them? I rely on the megafuse which is inside the positive side behind the box. Many many thanks Andy for your videos, without that I would never start to build my own battery pack and go offgrid (mostly). (Zollstock! great to hear that!) Greetings from Ungarn!
Danke❤
Hi Andy, i did tell Yixiang (Becky) the cables where to thin in version 1 and this is a fire hazzard! I was being told i was wrong. Thank you for pointing out the hazard again! Buyers should know this. Adding the extinguisher is ok, using thicker wires should be their priority. The flexible busbars still are too THIN.
Yixiang V2 has TOO THIN flexible bars! These bars will glow like a filament bulb too! 😮😮😮
Hi Andy. I ordered two V2 batteries separately from Becky. The batteries from the first order arrived ok. So did the box. The batteries from the 2nd order arrived poorly welded! ... too little laser power! The box from the second order arrived badly damaged, but in undamaged packaging. The front side was dented by 1cm, the top side was torn at the edge where it was punctured by 6mm. In the box, there were a lot of too-thin soft cables, aluminum, very thin connections between the main connectors. In the second shipment, both epoxy insulation plates for the bottom were missing. To all complaints, Becky excuses herself that they will improve the control in the future, etc. and that I will get a discount on my next order.
Basically, I should figure it out myself. So I replaced the paper aluminum plates with 100 mm2 copper ones, I had to order the missing epoxy protection at my own expense. I also replaced all the screws that were too long. With a lot of difficulty I managed to force the box to straighten out, but I don't know yet whether the BMS will work on it (due to an obvious drop in the factory in China).
Do they really think we're that naive?
Hey, love your channel! Could you do a video tour showing how you have all your solar panels connected to charge up all your batteries? It’d be super interesting to see the wiring setup and how everything comes together. Thanks for all the awesome content!
I think the case is really improved. For myself, i would add a Class T fuse in the negative wire for safely super high current cut-off and not relying for that on the breaker or the BMS.
That's exactly what I've done with my EEL vertical box.
There seems to be one more difference: The previous compression plates were massive. The new one has holes in it. They claim it is for a better heat transfer, but I don't see how that is better, as no air will actually go through the holes.
cost saving v2
I cut additional plates from 4mm steel for the front and back to increase rigidity. I put them under the edges of the batteries. But I understand that no one else will do this except me :)
the fire device is passive. It has no sensor. The blue cable is a fuse. It burns and ignites the powder/gas inside the round module
Correct. It is a thermal fuse. If the red tip is getting to hot, it ignites and triggers the fire extinguisher
Interesting. I have two on the water at the moment so I'm waiting to see what I get!
I am just now waiting for my V1 battery glad I got the V1 now. Thanks for the review.
Just received mine and some more comments :
wire size is 4AWG (35mm2) for positive and 2x6AWG (25mm2) for negative, not enough in m'y opinion. I'll replace them with 2x4AWG (70mm2).
The busbar between pôles is only 40mm2 aluminium, 50mm2 might be safer to handle 125A.
The main issue is on the breaker. Contact plates are not flat and there's a very small surface on contact. I had to file contacts to recover a flat surface. Be careful tu check them before using high current.
Added a piece of thick paper below PCBs to prevent contact with case and replaced 2x3 M3 screws with 2x6 countersunked M3 screws. No more risk to scratch PCB.
With 14 EVA tape and plate between cells, there's a gap of about 3mm when compression plate is fully screwed. I bought 20 more EVA tape to allow compression.
This is a good case but need some tweaks to be really secure and optimal.
For connecting the balance cables to the cells, i would make an extra m3 screw connection to the busbars instead of using the cell screws. This is far better, and add a small 10A inline fuse (low internal resistance) in de balance cable, so the small balance cables are protected.
37:50 The labeling on the front panel of the battery box seems to be correct. But the circuit breaker is upside down. It seems to be symmetrical so it should be possible to flip it.
Although the labeling on the circuit breaker itself seems to be wrong. The tripping button only works when it is in the green "OFF" position. Perhaps the black moving part within the breaker is also upside down?
Andy did remove the breaker to test the screw tension. Maybe he installed it back upside down?
@AWESOMEGODDIVER I thought that as well but then I have checked the video and the breaker seems to have been upside down even when it was originally installed.
Andy it’s very common to get no reading on some alloys. Aluminum forms an oxide very quickly. A quick buff by HAND with 3M cloth (bear hair 😂) will remove it right before assembly
Yes, and clean the terminal and bar with aceton before mounting.
Had to explain that to an older fellow recently. I think he thought I was having a lend, until I mentioned that to weld aluminium well, you need to clean it just before welding.
Hi Andy, the cable problem does not only happen with a faulty BMS. A wrongly programmed BMS can in fact create an overcurrent situation.
Looks good enough to me that I've ordered a few of them. Was watching as close as was possible in the front compartment and thinking about reworking cables to get a T class fuse in there somewhere. They've got to go somewhere and hope I can squeeze them in? And I'm ok with the big clunky breaker, I've got a few of them myself. 160 amp instead but they make a nice disconnect switch. And to top it all off, looks like I've finally found a use for the big box of 3mm nylon screws I've got. :)
The fire extinguisher is there for certification in some countries. Wire size is a big problem and should be much larger. Breakers unless something has changed break at much higher values than shown and often only trip if there is a dead short, slight overloads can lead to trips 5 to 10 times shown value the breaker. They may well be using the very short length of the cables as a justification for the small diameter as the length is also a factor in carrying capacity. I would retrofit larger ones.
Ah, yeah, could be a compliance regulation...
Yes, depending on the trip curve of the breaker, it could be higher.
I don't think the length is a justification for how much current a cable can carry. That is more a voltage drop issues. 250A are 250A if the cable is long or short does not matter.
(Edited to correct typo) Just a heads up, I have now purchased my third of the older version box and they did not arrive assembled like the ones in these reviews. The only thing actually connected to the case in every box was the BMS chassis/frame. All other parts including handles and rails etc and all wiring/connectors, insulation sheets were loose and floating around inside the boxes. I stopped buying them because they were always damaged internally in some small way. eg. warped/bent rails over/unevenly tightened BMS screws etc.
You must be talking about a different case? There is no inverter chassis with this DIY box.
@OffGridGarageAustralia sorry I meant BMS chassis (frame). It is the exact same case as yours but nothing fitted. I am disappointed that it was all loose and not fitted like yours. Even the rails for the balance wire PCB were bent. I guess they have different levels of service for different customers or something.
That circuit breaker is a surprise. All of the labelling and colours are actually correct. It just doesn't work correctly.
Down should be off, showing a green label, because that's safe, disconnected.
Up should be on, showing a red colour, because it is live, it is "dangerous"
Up is on, and down is off. In the event of gravity bringing something into contact with the breaker, it will be mostly DOWNWARD force, turning it off. It changes to a SAFER state in the event of an unexpected, and unobserved event.
Everything LOOKS correct, but the breaker is backwards internally.
The boards A & B and the cell numbers are from right to left, therefore the connector pairs 1/2 & 3/4 are from right to left also. Makes sense for them. Aldough renumber to the connectors 1-4 from left to right at the BMS is better indeed.
I think that the electrode surface is sandblasted. It looks like that and has the side effect that it oxidizes quickly in the air, which also confirms your slightly inconsistent measurements.
Circuit breakers and fuses have a fusing factor, basically the 250A rating means it can do 250A forever, but depending upon the fusing factor rating you can probably do 300A for about 30 minutes, 350A for 5 minutes, 400A for 30 seconds, 450A for 5 seconds etc...etc. obviously these numbers are just estimations, but you may be able to find a data sheet for the breaker and find out the actual ratings and response curves of the breaker, to me that breaker should only be 200A, the same maximum as the BMS, the breaker should protect the BMS, not the other way around.
We talk about the thin wires which is an issue for sure, but how about the copper traces on the jk bms? I don't think they will be much more than 25mm2 and will also run hot. Would be nice to investigate what is does under a 200A continously load.
I'm honestly looking at the Apexium vertical standing box, their v3. Display on top, comm connections on the side, battery connection on top.
Would definitely save space.
Yes, please instruct Andy 2 to test with the fire extinguisher 👍👍🤓
I knew you would say that!😄
So basically we now have the choice between pest and cholera...
Take v1 and get a flimsy circuit breaker BUT nice flexible busbars for the front panel connections.
Or take v2 and get a good circuit breaker BUT flimsy cables for the front panel connections.
Personally I might still go with v1.
Shame, I really wished they would have kept the great stuff from v1 and just eliminated the existing flaws (PCB board screw issue/ circuit breaker) - than we would have had a near to perfect DIY battery box...
I tested old circuit breaker. It works quiet well. Breaks fast at about 120A when removed parallels.
I don't think, the old breaker has any breaking capability to protect such a battery.
In the Eg4 Power pro 14.3 kwh battery. I think inside it uses 2c 4awg of very short runs, but then on the outside they recommend 2/0 AWG cables to run couple feet. 250 Amp breaker. I think it's actually 1x 4awg to each 125 amp CB in parallel.
The length should not determine the cable size from a safety perspective (voltage drop, yes!). If the circuit has a 250A breaker, the cable size should be accordingly, no matter where in this circuit.
We have seen this many times in other DIY and also pre-assembled batteries, that cables are usually too thin and not sized correctly.
I think the circuit breakers are more about isolation, so a higher grade helps avoid arcing and fire when switching off.
Vent holes at the front: Considering these thin cables inside carring 250A, definitely YES!!!
Strange design, isn't it? Installing thin cables and then punching vent holes in the case because the cable may get really warm.
You were worried about the cable cross sectional area, but you never checked the cross section of the original box for comparison, maybe you could measure the width and thickness of the equivalent linking bars and multiply the dimensions to get the mm2 to give the effective cross sectional area for them too.
The area of the heat-radiating surface is also important. You can't just compare by the cross-section. Flat busbars cool much better.
You should do a 200A test.
I would be curious if you were to flip the breaker to match up = on and down =off, If the cables would reach better? Maybe it was put in wrong at the factory.
The breaker is mounted the correct way around and works as designed. I just wasn't aware 'how it works'. It will be in the next video.
Why would they flip the terminals? Every battery I have or seen the positive is on left and negative right. So now you would have to cross if you wanted to tie it into a bank. Glad I saw this. Need to make sure get right version
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for your feedback.
98.8k I believe it will be Saturday when I see a super cool number 😊
Hey Andy! Do you have by any chance tested the Apexium DYI battery box? It now also comes with the JK BMS and some things are better compared to the Yixiang, like for example they use busbars instead of cables. But the downside of the Apexium kit is that you need to build pretty much the entire thing (could also be a good thing, considering the QC issues)
Thanks Andy, Cable size needs addressing, But not bad at all. 👍
I think that extinguisher is just pressurized air with powder, when the blue hose burns through it releases it at that point? not sure though
Flexible bus bars is a must IMHO. Plus I prefer those with a separate M3 hole for the balance cables.
A 5kW inverter as a load is about 120A .... cables are just good enough.....BMS would trip at 200A....the 250A breaker is just a last resort, more like a big switch?
48:30 f Holes or venting - maybe needed for the Fire extinguisher ??
Those small cables remind me of the ones that come with my ELL box way to small. I changed mine to 2x25mm for the negative and 1x50mm for the positive. I really wanted flexable busbars.
Nice Video. I see the Luba carton in the back. I'm really keen to get some information about the repair 🙂
Coming soon.
What is the benefit of epoxy sheets placed in between the battery cells?
Isolation. The cells can move during contraction and expansions and rub through the blue heatshrink of the cells over time. The cell case is the positive of the cell.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaCase is the positive, not isolated from the terminals. Have to rethink the packaging in my motorcycle.
Hi Andy, I was wondering if the new ventilation holes were there as part of a requirement for the new fire extinguisher. Just speculation on my part, I have never seen one before. Thanks.
Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?
Sorry to take this video off topic. I have been given some 8 190w solar pv panels. I already have a grid tied system ( 8.3kw of solar pv connected to a 10kw inverter) I know no one would connect these used panels to the spare string on the 10 kw inverter. What would you suggest I use the 8 panels for?
Run a hot water element to heat up a spa
Buy a Grid Inverter and feed power back into the house - As im approved for FIT, so who would really notice a little more power going back.
Off grid EV charger
Love to hear your thoughts from sunny QLD.
Very difficult to say. If you're in AU, you're not allowed to install more solar power than stated in your agreement. Hot water or EV charger is always a good idea.
Very hard to give you any advice as I'm not familiar with your system and regulations.
@OffGridGarageAustralia Melbourne Australia. I've got heaps of room like you to install more panels
Please clarify about compression: 300 kgf by one screw 6 mm and 3nm 24:24, if you use 6 screw how calculate what moment you need?
Considering you are compressing 2 batteries rows you need 600kgf so you need 6nm … but with 6 screw you will need only 1Nm torque on each of them to generate the total 600kgf (300 on each row).
Which BMS is better for EVE MB31. Seplos Mason or Yixiang? Both in design and software. Seems like a tough choice to me. I'm planning to put together a 4 boxes and don't know how to decide.
There is a new version of the vrm v3.50 Andy, give it a try it is brilliant.
VRM?
@@kaspernaess-schmidt6618 Victron VRM
Andi#2 please do a fire extinguisher test!
For builders, aware of risks and watching your videos, still a very good box.
The cables, that's a big red flag and they need to deliver busbars.
I think bus bars are more expensive, so they decided to save some money with the V2
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Save money, cost lives. Not even half a frog for me.
Those cables do not comply with Australian Standard AS/NZS 3008.1.1
70mm^2 stranded copper minimum for short distance 200 A DC in an enclosed space.
I'd be swapping them out for suitably rated cables.
Thanks for checking it out.
It would be great to have a recommended configuration of the bms to have the best lifespan of the lfp batteries. I didn't know about minimum voltage for balancing and is there also other configuration to change from the default one?
I have all the best settings on my website with links to the videos explaining all settings.
off-grid-garage.com/my-settings/
Hello Andy, there is only one way to try if that caliber holds up and we want to see it .....
General note about JK inverter BMS: I'm a bit scared that the positive cable of the BMS is not fused, even not on the BMS itself.
It's used not only for the BMS power supply but has also a freewhelling diode directly placed between B+ and P- and a snubber circuit to reduce voltage transients when the BMS is switched off. I think that the big toroidal inductor is part of this circuit.
Thats also why it has a bigger gauge wire than the balance cables. Btw not only the balance wires are much more thin, but all the balance inputs of the BMS are also "fused" with 0.1ohm SMD resistor. I think that it would be better to add a fuse on the positive cable, but I'm not sure of the right amperage: it should not break when the BMS interrupt the circuit under heavy loads (and long battery cables which add inductance)
There was never a fuse for the power supply of the BMS.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes I know and that's scary... the JK BMS with power wires without any fuse would never pass any certification (UL VDE, ecc) . Just search "JK bms melted balance leads" on diysolarforum to see what can happen when a short circuit happen on a non fused cable. BTW this was happened with the old stile JKBMS which has the same thin wire as balance wires for the BMS power supply. With bigger cables you can expect bigger fire :-)
@@kappa7c I share your concerns, this combo of box and bms does not seem to be quite there yet.
Greetings from South Africa!!
Hello to South Africa!
I found with my V2 box that the cells weren't compressed with all the EVA foam and resin sheets. I had to add more material.
Also, what torque setting for the terminals please?
Can someone tell me what thread size is needed for the heavy-duty caster mount at the bottom of the housing?
What is the wire thickness one uses to hook up such a box? Should those all be 70mm2 to match the breaker?
Hi Andy. Are any of these DIY battery boxes prepared to install a pre-charge resistor? Or is this a feature which is maybe already integrated in modern BMSs like the JK inverter BMS (maybe I've missed something)?
21:32 Hi Andy, I think the battery on your multi-meter is dying. This could be causing your issue with inconsistent voltage readings!
It is just a low voltage warning. Like in your car when the fuel gets low. It still drives for quite a while, doesn't it?😋
Hi Andy, all the new JK inverter has the new bluetooth name, and a power cable wit tiny ringlug
Once again, we learn from each other... Thank you.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes, I like!
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaAndy, why is there no fuse in the powerline of the bms?
@@jcgcs A fuse for the BMS? I have never seen a BMS which has a fuse, at least not an external one. I'll ask JIKONG if they have an electronic fuse which resets automatically.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaGreat!
I used a scotch Brite pad to clean off the terminals. It worked great.
I haven't used anything yet and will see if it is at all necessary.
you list this option on your website as a 48v or 24v. Can you explain what changes are needed to run this kit as 24V?
I don't know if the wires are rated for 200 c from the out side or from the inside.dont need 200 c near the battery.not even 40 degrees.
Andy, 4awg = 25mm2, and looks less than 30cm run, at that tiny distance 250A on that cable will be fine, voltage drop of ~0.9% at nominal 12Vdc, and, even if taking into account the 25% buffer that /should/ exist, 313A, voltage drop is only about 1.2%, or 12v to 11.87, with loss about 42w, certainly not designed as it should be, but no, you wont need the fire dept :) Ohh, and at 48v the voltage drop is about 0.28% or 48.0 to 47.9Vdc
I don't think, the cable length is relevant when talking about current carrying capacity in circuit. 250A are 250A no matter how long the cable is. It warms up the same way, regardless the length.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia A quote that seems to say it does matter, states : "The resistance of a wire is directly proportional to its length and inversely proportional to its cross-sectional area, according to Ohm's law. This means that as the length of the wire increases, so does its resistance. Consequently, for a given current, a longer wire will generate more heat than a shorter one. This is because the electrons moving through the wire collide with the atoms of the wire, causing them to vibrate more. This increased vibration of atoms manifests as heat."
So I think it matters if the cable length/cross section is not suitable for the 250 amp current it has to carry. The best way to answer is to put 250amps across the intended cable and see if it gets hot.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Heat generated per cm of cable does not matter on its length. But lets see, 200A on 25mm2 of cable 25cms long will generate 7W of heat. 50mm cable 3.5W etc.
The current carrying capacity is determined by the cross-sectional area of the conductor, the material of the conductor, and the installation conditions. It is not dependant on the length of the cable.
A 0.1m 10mm² cable can carry the same current as a 10m 10mm² cable.
Where can you get the 33 version firmware for the jk bms, you only have 32 on your website.
Hello Andi. Thanks for this great video. Your dirty glasses triggered me a bit at first. I'm curious which box I'll get. I ordered mine on 2024-08-28. Apparently this is already in Rotterdam. After your video, I'm hoping for version 1. I also think the cables in version 2 are too small. I would replace them with my own cables.
Well, you can still order both versions, so it depends...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia My box arrived on Friday. Version 1 has been delivered. However, I don't have "Yixiang" printed on the front. The back wall has holes on the inside and the outer struts on the right and left are open from above. The press plate is also perforated. The two PCBs also look slightly different and only have 2 screws each with an insulated washer. However, there are still 6 holes per PCB. The plugs to the BMS were not plugged in. Flexible bus bars were included, a wide one for the connection between cells 8 and 9, also flexible. I will replace the circuit breaker from V1 with one from V2. It looks much better to me, even if I have to change something about the cables. I couldn't find the exact circuit breaker, so I chose a 200A and 250V DC which isolates up to 25 kA.
Hi Andy, why did you not Test the Cable? Send 250Ah in the Battery and we will see what happend to the thin cable.
What is ideal charging voltage of lifepo4 cell 3.45 , 3.50 , 3.55 , 3.60 or 3.65 volt
And what is ideal charge rating 0.1 , 0.2 , 0.5 or 1c
And what is ideal discharge rating
one more excelente public service ;) Andy you said in the video about firmware V15.33 and there is only V15.32 for 200A... there is a .33 or it was a mistake? cheers mate
Ha ha ! You killed me with the polish !
Question: what value do you enter as battery capacity in the BMS? The nominal value of 280Ah or the actual capacity value of 305-308Ah?
Always the nominal, even the real capacity might be higher.
I always enter the tested value, then you know exactly what you have. The only reason to enter the nominal is if you want to have some extra leeway in reserve.
The argument against that is if the batteries test below nominal capacity(which happens often with lower grade or older cells) you will get caught short one day and have a system failure.
Andy! Hello from Hawaii. I totally learned and pretty much copied your battery shelf design and made a 24v system about 2 years ago (8s 2p).. anyhow I live in a rain forest high humidity area, and every month or 2 the moisture messes with my battery balance wires,I just loosen the nuts on the battery, wiggle the balance cables and tighten and that fixes it.. my question is what can I spray on the battery terminals to keep out the moisture? Anybody?
I didn't used it myself but planning to: just check this out: there is a spray called "CRC" (brand) called "Soft Seal" : "long term corrosion protection for metal surfaces, seals out moisture and corrosion , leaves a dry transparent film". And also: "NO OX ID" corrosion protection grease for electrical connections. Research about how to use them properly before using, please.
Petroleum jelly, AKA Vaseline?
Hi I am in Italy where I can buy around Europe this box battery bank I am confused wich one I have to use to buy!?
Not sure about that fire extinguisher . Think it needs testing Andy
Hey Andy I know you'll get to it eventually but please try to update from V15.29.
I can't get mine to respond to either up or down(in a EEL box, all 4). Howard may have to warranty them for me.
Anybody else having this problem of a stuck firmware on V15.29?
Hello. Can anyone confirm ? Is it possible to use external active balancer 5a with jk bms bal 2a? Both balancer running same time?
Yes, you can run as many balancers at the same time as you like. But if the JKBMS is not able to balance (maybe needs more time for the initial top balance at 3.45V?), there is something else wrong.
@OffGridGarageAustralia good morning 😁, i plan to build 16s lishen 280ah grade B bnew with jk bms 2a balancer. Maybe 2a is not enough, i initially plan to use a non smart balancer with 5a but now im eeying the jk smart active balancer 2a and set them both to start at 3.4-3.45v. Any recommendations? Additional jk smart balance good enough ? TY
@@aha5888 Start with the JKBMS first and see if can handle the cells. Charge to 55.2V and let it sit there until the delta is at 10mV. Check the next day, when the battery fully charges if the delta is significant higher again.
The side vent holes are needed because they are using thinner cables which gets warmer.. That's probably also the reason for having the fire extinguisher 🥴
Rubbish
Maybe they thought that the safety should be mounted with the writing on it reversed to respect what is written on the front of the battery?to be up on and down off
Are those V2 Boxes finally available without the JK BMS ?
What would you use instead?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia In my case I have no case but cells and jk-bms already
V1 or V2 to go for
Andy, I have 16 of those twin thread terminal cells from EVE. Still awaiting delivery of the Seplos mason kit. Where can I look up the QR codes please whilst I can still access them.
You can use the QR code scanner if you have an Android phone, or enter the codes manually at the Gobelpower QR decoder website.
Both links are on my website here (about half-way down):
off-grid-garage.com/batteries/
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thank you Andy Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?
Does the resistance change much depending on how tight the bus bars are? Is there a recommended resistance range?
Wouldn't the vent holes circumvent the function of the fire extinguisher?
Ventilación is to fit smaller & hotter cables!
wo bekomtm man passende Batery kabel für die YIXIANG her ? Am besten einseitig mit dem richtigen Stecker vorkonfektioniert
It's new JK HW 15.2 with serial number as a name and new positive wire
Is the seller called shenzen yinxinang new energy ? Or where is it safe too buy ?
Link is in the video description. This is safe to buy from them.
What torque gauge is this I need please