I felt really old when neither of you recognized the voltage regulator. I got my first job as a mechanic in the mid 70's and external regulators were on their way out even then. I enjoy watching you guys whether you're doing high quality fab work or just getting it running.
Me too!!! I was surprised as hell neither of them realized it was the external voltage regulator. I had a '72 Chevelle and currently own a '68 and both have external voltage regulators. Had to check a electrical schematic the whole time I"m hollering at my computer screen "It's a volltage regualtor!"
Throw in that stock gas tank for him too so he can use the cool 57-only hidden gas fill door. (yes 56 is hidden too but it's different from the 57) I had the same rubbing issue in my 55 Handyman. I just bent and hammered (carefully) the lip where the top and bottom of the tank comes together (where it was rubbing the diff) for clearance. I can't believe you guys are young enough to not know a voltage regulator. Damn, I'm old... LOL
You're not old they just don't work on old enough cars, I'm 51yrs old and I know it's a voltage regulator, as a matter of fact I could've told you that was a voltage regulator in the 80's when I started working on cars with my dad
What I did with my 57 wagon when the rear shockwaves interfered with the wagon tank was relocate the tank to the non wagon location which just means cutting out the spare tire well and use a higher capacity non wagon tank and can still use the hidden gas door. The spare tire well is dead space anyways as far as the undercarriage is concerned, may as well use it!
My car was an ex drag car that had been redone back to street mode. The spare tire well was cut out (evidence of a fuel cell had been there) and I spent time and $$ to replace it. I want to have a spare and there is room for a jack and other smalls. I went ahead and did mini tubs, spring pockets, shock bar and an F9 rear while I was in there. Oh and the tailgate retractors and un-glued the rear side windows so they would operate again. Took me about a year and a trip to Colorado to get the parts and do the work. Lol
That’s just amazing, I’m so glad that car was won by a guy who’s going to take it to the next level. Hopefully you’ll keep in touch with him and post a couple of updates so we can see the awesome car you inspired.
I've been using push on type AN fittings for years on EFI fuel, water and oil hoses. I always use an Aeroquip high pressure push on designed hose with Ebay (Torques) push on aluminium fittings which have the multiple barbs. With assembly I make everything off the car and use a nylon fittings clamp to hold the alloy fitting in a bench vice and then dip the hose end in a mug of boiling or near boiling water for five minutes to soften up and expand the end of the hose before pushing it on the end of the barbed fitting. I don't use a lubricant other than the water in the mug and I don't use external hose clips and have never had a hose failure. Very easy and budget friendly method to make hoses. To get the fittings out to re-use them you need to cut down the length of the hose on the outside of the fitting as once they're in you can't pull them out.
Good tip about anti-sieze on spark plugs, except on NGK spark plugs. The plating on the shell is designed to be used dry. Using anti-sieze on NGK plugs can cause an over-torque situation. On all other brands though, definitely use anti seize.
@Hillbillygarage1215 there are actual guidelines to seating spark plugs, some use them, some don't. I work for NGK, and just thought I'd share this bit of info.
@spikedmotorsport I don't dispute that a torque spec/procedure exists. Im just saying its useless and I've never worried about it. 50 years and I've never stripped one, nor ever had one blow out. So y'all go ahead and get the torque wrench out and I'll go ahead and put the plug wires on.
For the master cylinder upgrade on a trifive, drill the two lower bolts through the center. Then install new longer grade 8 hardware, tighten the master cylinder down to hold position, and then tack weld the bolts under the dash.
Cutting the ears on that aluminum casting down leaves it with a big stress riser right where the load is the highest... and cast aluminum is not nearly as tough as cast iron. The ears on that cylinder will crack sometime down the road.
I’ve been using Fragola pushlock fittings for a while now. Main thing is using the correct hose. For fuel hose, using a SAE30R9 spec hose from Continental/Contitech (formerly Goodyear hose division). I’ve just dipped in a bit of type F and yes, 3/8” fittings suck to do at times lol but it can be done by hand. I bought a reel of the hose once I got a short piece because I figured a 25’ reel is way cheaper per foot than a damn parts store that sells it for EFI hose and it’s $10-$12 a damn foot. Every time I’ve had problems, it was my own stupidity not lubing it up before slamming it on that hole. Much like all those tender dates years back 😂
This car is absolutely cool and your building at the right way except for that gas tank, I would have spent another few hours and just put the original tank back in it hook up the gas gauge to it but now if you think about it you're robbing the back of that station wagon of room and the spare tire, that's just my opinion but all in all you guys are doing a fantastic job
Ah man that kinda sucks. The fuel door on a 57 is one of the coolest features plus looks kind of a pain to fill and the constant smell of fuel. Still a cool ride
*That's tantastic !* Congrats to Stephen, I wish him lots of safe miles in his new machine. I agree ; he sounds like the perfect winner. I hope he keeps it and races it for years, and years, and years. Happy New Year everyone and greetings from Prague, CZ. PS : Well done Wirecare for supporting this project.
I'm only 50 but I know that's a voltage regulator (solid state relay) and is a main junction. The power into the car to power the fuse block should come from the horn relay.
At Hillbilly Garage we knocked the porcelain and electrode out of the center of an old spark plug then taped a finger from a rubber around it thread it in the hole and turn the motor over. As long,as you have compression it will be very evident when she come up on compression
The list! I've been there. Thinking I don't need a list because I'm going to jam right through my project with no interruption. Fast forward a few months later and I'm buying parts again that I already had because I didn't remember buying them in the first place. BTW, a piece of glass works great too for a dry erase list.
Yup the wire was most definitely for the old charging system and that's why so many people went to a one wire alternator because them old boxes would start causing problems 💯🏁🇺🇲
Looks a whole lot like an old delco voltage regulator to me. #1 should be right next to the points adjustment door. HEI kept the same plug wire locations IIRC. #1 should be just off center of straight forward. The underneath plug wire routing is how Chevy did it with the old ram horn manifolds.
Hand sanitiser cleans white boards amazing. We even use it to remove graffiti around the collage. Way cheaper, and you get to keep your pressure cans for the important stuff. Hope it helps!
Windex is best for push on lube. We found doing R&D that it dries like a glue. Also hose clamps on a push fitting can create the inner core of hose to deform and create gaps over the bumps on fitting.
I'm building a 1971 Ford Maverick grabber and I used that blue wrapped aircraft-grade fuel line with the plastic coating on the inside anyways I used the cheap push lock fittings and I feel your pain brother some of them where push lock and some of them were the thread on/ crimp.. I used to use a vice and put them together on the bench and then take the whole hose over to the car
I like the wire tie holder but I also have a lot of PVC pipe around the garage so I’ll just make one. Reusable wire tie, I would take the end of another wire tie and slip it in to release the tab. I’ll try the pliers thing next time.
Your videos are just great to lay back & watch a vehicle lover wrench and share how things "really" go. Have to comment about your tips. Rubber hose- boiling water helps to flex & stretch easier. Zip ties- tiny flat head to bend the locking tab. Kick butt on a happy winner!
Really enjoyed this and I didn't even enter. Great to see the '57 come to life and it'll be good to see the handover / new owner and for you us all to see the exploits.
Soooo happy to see someone who does this a lot having all the screw ball part mismatch issues I have! Gives me hope man! Thanks for sharing the crap that goes wrong leading to success.
Saw you cutting the Master cylinder On my 55 Dodge The master cylinder for a 71 Dart fits perfectly Thought after scratching my head for a while realized the pushrod length was wrong I looked at it Then remove the thick rubber pedal stop and the master cylinder was able to fully return to rest position The brake would progressively lock upon front I had done the swap to replace the single reservoir stock brake master
At the shop I work at, every hose and hard line drawing has a note to purge and cap off both ends before use. That's a good habit to keep during your build!!
I won the 2nd place prize. The Chevy was won by a local in Augusta according to his IG post. If it does end up on the marketplace it will be after Sick Week as the winner wants to bring it there.
Mechanical REGULATOR 😂 we used to adjust those so little old Lady's that only drove 5 to 10 blocks to the Grocery store, would charge the battery higher, so when they needed to go again next week it would start for them. I worked right on main street of a town with 1400 people. It was a Flying A fuel station when my Dad and Grandfather bought it in 1960 I think. Then Phillips 66. We had 8 bays and was very busy. I worked there until 88 then started doing what you are now.
As soon as I cut that type of fuel line, I hit the frayed part of the jacket with a torch lighter or heat gun. Then you gotta figure out if the fitting you have is reversed or std direction threads, or if it's just ribbed. I have a buddy who puts the outer nut on hose with his impact, but I'm not that brave. There's getting to be so dang many types of hose, it's getting tough to discern what you got!
I used Fragola push lock hole for everything on my car, but I bought the Koul Tools(sp) push lock vise and other than a couple times it was difficult to put the fitting on in the car, it worked slick as hell! Well worth the $300ish bucks for the tool!! Drop in the bucket really considering the couple grand I have just in hoses and fittings!
Here's a tip that you missed. Put a vice grip garage style Wix 33003 visible fuel filter in line just before the carburetor so you can, A: Filter the Fuel, and B: visibaly see if the fuel pump is working, and the cab is getting fed.
A day late and a dollar short, but was still stoaked to see this set of videos has I am building a 2 door 57 210 wagon gasser my self. I was just looking at woody's for a chassis before running across these vids.and always using Speedway. good luck in your future ventures. Will
You should have put the gas tank on lockable sliders so you could access the spare tire well. That way, you have more storage room for storage space for a drag and drive.
So they make a small press that is made for push lock hose. They also make a lube that will dissolve. If u get those 2 items, it will work just fine and easy to do.
Parker makes various type of hose for different fluids. If you use their hose and their fittings the push lock stuff works fantastic. I’ve used them for years.
Had to trim the ears on my Danchuk dual disk master. Flap wheel to the rescue. Didn't have a deep throat bandsaw at the time, I do now. Bar soap on the band blade, no wax. Wax will make the blade slip on the drive wheels and move the tracking of the blade around. Then you have to pull it down, clean all the wax, and reassemble. You know, at the end of 1955, the first year of the Sbc, you could have ordered a 11/1 compression, Duntov solid lifter 265CI. You could have ordered the same 11/1, Duntov in the 283CI for 1956, in your Tri-5 Chevy, with 3 speed colum shift, 4 door, wagon. The Jesel Bros, of Jesel valvetrain fame, campaigned a dual carb 265ci Tri-5 delivery 2 door, and they did really good. It was called "Yoo Hoo II".
Us carpenters call that "old-growth" lumber. I was hoping you'd put matching rims and tires on the front cuz those Cokers look so damn good with the 2-tone paint.
Always enjoy your builds took one of your stealth hats to the Caribbean. It worked very well. Many compliments also ran into a frontiers that was helping out with your boat racing a while back in Newport Beach where I hang out keep up the good work and creating great content.
I bought a hose assembly tool from Koul Tools when I was building my power steering low pressure hoses. It’s not the cheapest thing in the world but it’s not that bad and it makes putting push lock hoses a breeze
Had to laugh, when you was trying to locate regulator. When I was first starting out, my boss made me draw the schematic of how the regulators internal wiring worked. Plus I owned a 55 before alternators came put, everything had a regulator. 😅
Just watch the episode of the Gasser wagon seen you struggling with the fuel hoses little tip take some brake clean spray the hose and then install the fitting. You’d be surprised how much easier it is.
Hers a weird tip for your dry erase board, if what you wrote is old and won't wipe off, just draw a blob over it with a new marker and it will all wipe off!
Tip: Before pulling the distributor for paint, bring the engine to TDC @ #1. If you allllways do this, you will never wonder or have to mess around. You probably could have put the correct tamk into it with all of the screwing around..
Here's a Pro tip for you! on the end of the hose you enlarged, you can use a screw hose clamp on the end to close it up before you put a fitting in it.
Mike take the magic marker and scribble over the dried up ink on the white board then wipe it off it rehydrates the ink then you can wipe it off like normal
I use the same large dry erase trick to keep track of my projects too. A tech tip, from me to you... when you've ignored a project long enough, that the dry erase doesn't want to come off the board... a magic eraser pad, soaked in rubbing alcohol, will clean up the residue and make it nice and white again. So you can write up the list, for the next project, that is also going to be ignored, until you're forced to address it. 😂
That was really cool. Definitely think the right guy won the car. Hope he shows up at Sick week so we get to see it driving Maybe he can put the motor from his Nova in it ? congratulations brother
Baffled that you didn't stab the distributor in properly instead of moving the wires all around. 😆 Thanks for that nugget about squeezing zip ties that I somehow didn't know. 😺
All of the”push-lock” hose I’ve used says “ Goodyear push-lock” on it, if it doesn’t have the label, I use a hose clamp. There’s a tool to push the fitting into the hose, and a little heat helps make it easier (too much heat makes it as miserable as too little!) for the balance between labor and parts, screw together makes more sense!
Love them tri-five wagons , just found your channel, Subbed instantly I just dont trust push lock fittings , I hose clamp everything TIP: OFF bug repellent will remove sharpie from almost everything, just wiped off a mark on my bathroom counter top with it
PARKER push-lock hose and fittings have always worked great for me. It’s fine for oil and coolant but I don’t think it’s comparable with modern gas with ethanol.
Looks like you are using Teflon hose? Can’t use it with push lock fittings. When assembling push lock fittings with correct hose, dip end of hose in break cleaner, slips right on then brake clean evaporates.
How about the pan head screws holding the timing cover on. Most of those got thrown away and replaced with hex head bolts. Only the early sbc had pan screws. 🙌🏼👍🏻👊🏼🔧🔧🔧🔧
Big pass on push lock. Go into any parts store anywhere and they look at you like you have crabs crawling out of your ears when you ask for push lock hose. One guy at O'Reilly even told me, just use regular 3/8 gates low pressure hose ....for a fuel injection application with push lock fittings.....if its uncommon, im avoiding it.
Man, it's a shame you took that short cut on the fuel tank. Did not expect that. But I think it all worked out in the end, he was totally cool with a project car, and Fin described it correctly "It's a great start to a project car."
Welp, I hope I win, but I don't like the modification been done, dist, brake booster. But very nice on everything else. And a heater would be nice too!or more of a street rod. Rather than grandma's race car from the past. All tho, very nice.😮
I felt really old when neither of you recognized the voltage regulator. I got my first job as a mechanic in the mid 70's and external regulators were on their way out even then. I enjoy watching you guys whether you're doing high quality fab work or just getting it running.
Me too!!! I was surprised as hell neither of them realized it was the external voltage regulator. I had a '72 Chevelle and currently own a '68 and both have external voltage regulators. Had to check a electrical schematic the whole time I"m hollering at my computer screen "It's a volltage regualtor!"
Yup, voltage regulator. Are we really that old??
I still run tractors with generators and those style voltage regulators.
What's worse is I recognized those wiring clips as the same as what my Harbor Freight trailer came with 🤣
Me too. Made me feel ancient.
Throw in that stock gas tank for him too so he can use the cool 57-only hidden gas fill door.
(yes 56 is hidden too but it's different from the 57)
I had the same rubbing issue in my 55 Handyman. I just bent and hammered (carefully) the lip where the top and bottom of the tank comes together (where it was rubbing the diff) for clearance.
I can't believe you guys are young enough to not know a voltage regulator. Damn, I'm old... LOL
I completely agree
You're not old they just don't work on old enough cars, I'm 51yrs old and I know it's a voltage regulator, as a matter of fact I could've told you that was a voltage regulator in the 80's when I started working on cars with my dad
What I did with my 57 wagon when the rear shockwaves interfered with the wagon tank was relocate the tank to the non wagon location which just means cutting out the spare tire well and use a higher capacity non wagon tank and can still use the hidden gas door. The spare tire well is dead space anyways as far as the undercarriage is concerned, may as well use it!
My car was an ex drag car that had been redone back to street mode.
The spare tire well was cut out (evidence of a fuel cell had been there) and I spent time and $$ to replace it. I want to have a spare and there is room for a jack and other smalls.
I went ahead and did mini tubs, spring pockets, shock bar and an F9 rear while I was in there.
Oh and the tailgate retractors and un-glued the rear side windows so they would operate again.
Took me about a year and a trip to Colorado to get the parts and do the work. Lol
That’s just amazing, I’m so glad that car was won by a guy who’s going to take it to the next level. Hopefully you’ll keep in touch with him and post a couple of updates so we can see the awesome car you inspired.
That would be interesting.
I've been using push on type AN fittings for years on EFI fuel, water and oil hoses. I always use an Aeroquip high pressure push on designed hose with Ebay (Torques) push on aluminium fittings which have the multiple barbs. With assembly I make everything off the car and use a nylon fittings clamp to hold the alloy fitting in a bench vice and then dip the hose end in a mug of boiling or near boiling water for five minutes to soften up and expand the end of the hose before pushing it on the end of the barbed fitting. I don't use a lubricant other than the water in the mug and I don't use external hose clips and have never had a hose failure. Very easy and budget friendly method to make hoses.
To get the fittings out to re-use them you need to cut down the length of the hose on the outside of the fitting as once they're in you can't pull them out.
I still have the original 265 in my 55 Bel-Air and Powerglide. Congratulations to the winners!
Good tip about anti-sieze on spark plugs, except on NGK spark plugs. The plating on the shell is designed to be used dry. Using anti-sieze on NGK plugs can cause an over-torque situation. On all other brands though, definitely use anti seize.
Over torque a spark plug? Do you really torque them? Spark plugs only need to be "goodnsnug"
@Hillbillygarage1215 there are actual guidelines to seating spark plugs, some use them, some don't. I work for NGK, and just thought I'd share this bit of info.
I can vouch for this info. I came here to say the exact same thing, as another NGK (Niterra) employee 😂
@@spikedmotorsport it's still difficult to remember the new name. 🤣
@spikedmotorsport I don't dispute that a torque spec/procedure exists. Im just saying its useless and I've never worried about it. 50 years and I've never stripped one, nor ever had one blow out. So y'all go ahead and get the torque wrench out and I'll go ahead and put the plug wires on.
For the master cylinder upgrade on a trifive, drill the two lower bolts through the center. Then install new longer grade 8 hardware, tighten the master cylinder down to hold position, and then tack weld the bolts under the dash.
Cutting the ears on that aluminum casting down leaves it with a big stress riser right where the load is the highest... and cast aluminum is not nearly as tough as cast iron. The ears on that cylinder will crack sometime down the road.
I’ve been using Fragola pushlock fittings for a while now. Main thing is using the correct hose.
For fuel hose, using a SAE30R9 spec hose from Continental/Contitech (formerly Goodyear hose division).
I’ve just dipped in a bit of type F and yes, 3/8” fittings suck to do at times lol but it can be done by hand.
I bought a reel of the hose once I got a short piece because I figured a 25’ reel is way cheaper per foot than a damn parts store that sells it for EFI hose and it’s $10-$12 a damn foot.
Every time I’ve had problems, it was my own stupidity not lubing it up before slamming it on that hole.
Much like all those tender dates years back 😂
This car is absolutely cool and your building at the right way except for that gas tank, I would have spent another few hours and just put the original tank back in it hook up the gas gauge to it but now if you think about it you're robbing the back of that station wagon of room and the spare tire, that's just my opinion but all in all you guys are doing a fantastic job
Plus it's going to stink out the interior.
Good times 🎉 what about brass fittings from ace hardware and some gates hose with hose clamps. That is what everyone has used forever 🎉
Because it's incredibly unsafe
Ah man that kinda sucks. The fuel door on a 57 is one of the coolest features plus looks kind of a pain to fill and the constant smell of fuel. Still a cool ride
“If I’m at the junk yard or your mom’s house…” totally deadpan without skipping a beat. This is why you’re the GOAT. 😂
I choked on my coffee on that one. Lol
Im still rolling 😂😂😂
I came here to say this. I actually rewound it and had to listen to it again..😂
*That's tantastic !* Congrats to Stephen, I wish him lots of safe miles in his new machine. I agree ; he sounds like the perfect winner. I hope he keeps it and races it for years, and years, and years. Happy New Year everyone and greetings from Prague, CZ. PS : Well done Wirecare for supporting this project.
I'm only 50 but I know that's a voltage regulator (solid state relay) and is a main junction. The power into the car to power the fuse block should come from the horn relay.
At Hillbilly Garage we knocked the porcelain and electrode out of the center of an old spark plug then taped a finger from a rubber around it thread it in the hole and turn the motor over. As long,as you have compression it will be very evident when she come up on compression
The list! I've been there. Thinking I don't need a list because I'm going to jam right through my project with no interruption. Fast forward a few months later and I'm buying parts again that I already had because I didn't remember buying them in the first place. BTW, a piece of glass works great too for a dry erase list.
Yup the wire was most definitely for the old charging system and that's why so many people went to a one wire alternator because them old boxes would start causing problems 💯🏁🇺🇲
Looks a whole lot like an old delco voltage regulator to me.
#1 should be right next to the points adjustment door. HEI kept the same plug wire locations IIRC. #1 should be just off center of straight forward.
The underneath plug wire routing is how Chevy did it with the old ram horn manifolds.
Throwing a hotdog down a hallway 😂😂😂😂😂, that never gets old
Unless your the hotdog.
The fittings you needed for that gas line has an aluminum feral. I am using that line on my 55
Hand sanitiser cleans white boards amazing. We even use it to remove graffiti around the collage. Way cheaper, and you get to keep your pressure cans for the important stuff. Hope it helps!
Windex is best for push on lube. We found doing R&D that it dries like a glue. Also hose clamps on a push fitting can create the inner core of hose to deform and create gaps over the bumps on fitting.
I'm building a 1971 Ford Maverick grabber and I used that blue wrapped aircraft-grade fuel line with the plastic coating on the inside anyways I used the cheap push lock fittings and I feel your pain brother some of them where push lock and some of them were the thread on/ crimp.. I used to use a vice and put them together on the bench and then take the whole hose over to the car
I like the wire tie holder but I also have a lot of PVC pipe around the garage so I’ll just make one.
Reusable wire tie, I would take the end of another wire tie and slip it in to release the tab. I’ll try the pliers thing next time.
Your videos are just great to lay back & watch a vehicle lover wrench and share how things "really" go.
Have to comment about your tips.
Rubber hose- boiling water helps to flex & stretch easier.
Zip ties- tiny flat head to bend the locking tab.
Kick butt on a happy winner!
Try writing over the words with a second coat of marker then wipe it off right away while it is wet. It even works for erasing sharpie marker
Really enjoyed this and I didn't even enter. Great to see the '57 come to life and it'll be good to see the handover / new owner and for you us all to see the exploits.
Soooo happy to see someone who does this a lot having all the screw ball part mismatch issues I have! Gives me hope man! Thanks for sharing the crap that goes wrong leading to success.
someone doing the afternoon walk of shame at 48 minutes
😂😂😂😂
OMG... That's priceless
I literally ran to the comments to see who else saw it! What ya got going on over there, Mike?!
Definitely need a explanation of that situation lmao
@@justinspencer283lmao pretty funny but she had a leg brace
Saw you cutting the Master cylinder
On my 55 Dodge
The master cylinder for a 71 Dart fits perfectly
Thought after scratching my head for a while realized the pushrod length was wrong
I looked at it
Then remove the thick rubber pedal stop and the master cylinder was able to fully return to rest position
The brake would progressively lock upon front
I had done the swap to replace the single reservoir stock brake master
At the shop I work at, every hose and hard line drawing has a note to purge and cap off both ends before use. That's a good habit to keep during your build!!
That's the wire from the voltage regulator that charges your battery.
Ooh I like the zip tie tip. I normally use the tip of a knife or something else small to hold the tab back
It will be on marketplace next week.
I won the 2nd place prize. The Chevy was won by a local in Augusta according to his IG post. If it does end up on the marketplace it will be after Sick Week as the winner wants to bring it there.
@@trevorposey7109A LOCAL won it?? Sounds fishy to me. Saves Mike a fortune on shipping.
good chance it will be
@guidorollard2944 after listening to him, quite possibly, to fund his current Nova build.
Mechanical REGULATOR 😂 we used to adjust those so little old Lady's that only drove 5 to 10 blocks to the Grocery store, would charge the battery higher, so when they needed to go again next week it would start for them. I worked right on main street of a town with 1400 people. It was a Flying A fuel station when my Dad and Grandfather bought it in 1960 I think. Then Phillips 66. We had 8 bays and was very busy. I worked there until 88 then started doing what you are now.
When i do any fuel lines i put earplugs through it by compressed air it cleans everything 😎
As soon as I cut that type of fuel line, I hit the frayed part of the jacket with a torch lighter or heat gun. Then you gotta figure out if the fitting you have is reversed or std direction threads, or if it's just ribbed. I have a buddy who puts the outer nut on hose with his impact, but I'm not that brave. There's getting to be so dang many types of hose, it's getting tough to discern what you got!
I used Fragola push lock hole for everything on my car, but I bought the Koul Tools(sp) push lock vise and other than a couple times it was difficult to put the fitting on in the car, it worked slick as hell! Well worth the $300ish bucks for the tool!! Drop in the bucket really considering the couple grand I have just in hoses and fittings!
The Grob is the way ! Great nlade welder on em. The power feed is a beast for cutting thicker steel and long cuts with the cross slide.
I don’t know if anyone else has mentioned it, but using needle nose pliers to stretch open hoses before pushing in fittings also works.
Here's a tip that you missed. Put a vice grip garage style Wix 33003 visible fuel filter in line just before the carburetor so you can, A: Filter the Fuel, and B: visibaly see if the fuel pump is working, and the cab is getting fed.
A day late and a dollar short, but was still stoaked to see this set of videos has I am building a 2 door 57 210 wagon gasser my self. I was just looking at woody's for a chassis before running across these vids.and always using Speedway. good luck in your future ventures. Will
Somehow I get the impression that your heart wasn't really into this build?
I mean it was to give away to someone who wants to build a car, so it honestly only need to work well enough to get to the person's garage.
Finnegan:”Yeah I’d rather be racing Blasphemi!”😂
You should have put the gas tank on lockable sliders so you could access the spare tire well. That way, you have more storage room for storage space for a drag and drive.
So they make a small press that is made for push lock hose. They also make a lube that will dissolve. If u get those 2 items, it will work just fine and easy to do.
Parker makes various type of hose for different fluids. If you use their hose and their fittings the push lock stuff works fantastic. I’ve used them for years.
Had to trim the ears on my Danchuk dual disk master. Flap wheel to the rescue. Didn't have a deep throat bandsaw at the time, I do now. Bar soap on the band blade, no wax. Wax will make the blade slip on the drive wheels and move the tracking of the blade around. Then you have to pull it down, clean all the wax, and reassemble.
You know, at the end of 1955, the first year of the Sbc, you could have ordered a 11/1 compression, Duntov solid lifter 265CI. You could have ordered the same 11/1, Duntov in the 283CI for 1956, in your Tri-5 Chevy, with 3 speed colum shift, 4 door, wagon.
The Jesel Bros, of Jesel valvetrain fame, campaigned a dual carb 265ci Tri-5 delivery 2 door, and they did really good. It was called "Yoo Hoo II".
Nice tip on the zip ties. I normally use a pocket knife to pull down the hook to release the tie. Not easy.
A 74 vette with manual disc brakes master cylinder from the parts store will bolt right up without any modding.
Us carpenters call that "old-growth" lumber. I was hoping you'd put matching rims and tires on the front cuz those Cokers look so damn good with the 2-tone paint.
I’ve always heard don’t use hose clamps with pushlock ends, because the barbs can slice the hose. 🤷♂️
Love how there are two fire extinguishers on hand. Nice to be prepared.!!
Pete Harold engine😮
Always enjoy your builds took one of your stealth hats to the Caribbean. It worked very well. Many compliments also ran into a frontiers that was helping out with your boat racing a while back in Newport Beach where I hang out keep up the good work and creating great content.
Wrt the saw - for those if us space constrained, I just bought an m18 portaband and the swag off-road table and my god is that a slick unit.
I bought a hose assembly tool from Koul Tools when I was building my power steering low pressure hoses. It’s not the cheapest thing in the world but it’s not that bad and it makes putting push lock hoses a breeze
Had to laugh, when you was trying to locate regulator. When I was first starting out, my boss made me draw the schematic of how the regulators internal wiring worked. Plus I owned a 55 before alternators came put, everything had a regulator. 😅
Mike! Long time fan of you and the boys! So happy to see you guys living your best life! Keep the party going!
Warming hose ends in boiled water for a minute or two will help a lot as well, surely there is a fuel cell that would fit n fill the spare wheel tub?
Just watch the episode of the Gasser wagon seen you struggling with the fuel hoses little tip take some brake clean spray the hose and then install the fitting. You’d be surprised how much easier it is.
Hers a weird tip for your dry erase board, if what you wrote is old and won't wipe off, just draw a blob over it with a new marker and it will all wipe off!
Mercury power tune spray is man’s best fried when it comes to putting push lock hose together. It makes rubber crazy slick.
I prefer to plug the outlets of brake master cylinder when bench bleeding. Goes much quicker . Most all new ones come with them fir that reason.
Tip: Before pulling the distributor for paint, bring the engine to TDC @ #1. If you allllways do this, you will never wonder or have to mess around. You probably could have put the correct tamk into it with all of the screwing around..
Exactly! And now whoever works on this next will wonder/have to figure out how the wires are run/where number 1 is. 😊
On a dry erase board , if it won't erase , use the marker and write over what didn't erase and it will wipe off after you do that
Here's a Pro tip for you!
on the end of the hose you enlarged, you can use a screw hose clamp on the end to close it up before you put a fitting in it.
Heat the hose hot, gloves, and the push lok fitting will glide in
try putting a whistle in the end of a rubber hose and hold the hose over the plug hole. It will whistle just before it comes to tdc
To clean the white board trace over the old dry erase marker with a fresh one, then simply wife off.
I covered my entire garage/shop walls in that sheet dry erase board. It was awesome! Great for lighting
Mike take the magic marker and scribble over the dried up ink on the white board then wipe it off it rehydrates the ink then you can wipe it off like normal
I use the same large dry erase trick to keep track of my projects too. A tech tip, from me to you... when you've ignored a project long enough, that the dry erase doesn't want to come off the board... a magic eraser pad, soaked in rubbing alcohol, will clean up the residue and make it nice and white again. So you can write up the list, for the next project, that is also going to be ignored, until you're forced to address it. 😂
That was really cool. Definitely think the right guy won the car. Hope he shows up at Sick week so we get to see it driving Maybe he can put the motor from his Nova in it ? congratulations brother
Baffled that you didn't stab the distributor in properly instead of moving the wires all around. 😆
Thanks for that nugget about squeezing zip ties that I somehow didn't know. 😺
All of the”push-lock” hose I’ve used says “ Goodyear push-lock” on it, if it doesn’t have the label, I use a hose clamp. There’s a tool to push the fitting into the hose, and a little heat helps make it easier (too much heat makes it as miserable as too little!) for the balance between labor and parts, screw together makes more sense!
Love them tri-five wagons , just found your channel, Subbed instantly
I just dont trust push lock fittings , I hose clamp everything
TIP: OFF bug repellent will remove sharpie from almost everything, just wiped off a mark on my bathroom counter top with it
PARKER push-lock hose and fittings have always worked great for me. It’s fine for oil and coolant but I don’t think it’s comparable with modern gas with ethanol.
Not only you have a great place for gas tank and also weight transferz!
Looks like you are using Teflon hose? Can’t use it with push lock fittings. When assembling push lock fittings with correct hose, dip end of hose in break cleaner, slips right on then brake clean evaporates.
How about the pan head screws holding the timing cover on. Most of those got thrown away and replaced with hex head bolts. Only the early sbc had pan screws. 🙌🏼👍🏻👊🏼🔧🔧🔧🔧
The wide whites and the chrome reverse wheels are great looking
Sound like the right guy won! And ready to take it on Sick Week, Awesome!!
Great video with some good tech tips. Gasser winner was the right guy for sure ! Thanks for the video , I always enjoy them on a Sunday morning.
Speedway Motors has a really good tool for Push lock fittings!
mike thanks for the videos..for your whiteboard list according to kevin of junkyard builds a little sunscreen lotion will take it right off...
you could also get shouldered nuts and widen the holes in the master cyclinder
Heat gun on the hose helps with getting hoses together that are tight
Exactly... and when it cools down hose really "hugs" the gnurls on the fitting...
That’s cool that a local to me guy got it. Hope to see it around. Congrats to the winner!
I’ve used Push-Lok hose for over 25 years with no issues. Parker hose and fittings.
Big pass on push lock.
Go into any parts store anywhere and they look at you like you have crabs crawling out of your ears when you ask for push lock hose.
One guy at O'Reilly even told me, just use regular 3/8 gates low pressure hose ....for a fuel injection application with push lock fittings.....if its uncommon, im avoiding it.
Well, I guess I should have watched the whole video. Better luck next time!
Congratulations to all the winners. Sick Week is going to be epic!!
Man, it's a shame you took that short cut on the fuel tank. Did not expect that. But I think it all worked out in the end, he was totally cool with a project car, and Fin described it correctly "It's a great start to a project car."
OK, so the best way to get your car done is to try all the hose fittings that don't work. Got it.
Mike Finnegan please keep making more Video's of your Building. ❤❤❤❤
22:15 Scotch Super 33+? The greatest electrical tape in the history of electric, or tape?! Man, you do things RIGHT...
Mornin Finn, Good morning gearheads... Sunday, Sunday, Sunday and a Happy New Year🔥
Don’t use brake cleaner on white board. It will strip finish. There are white board cleaners and finish restorers that keep the surface useable. 😀
44:27 brother that tip right there will take you far in life even outside of hot rods 😂
Banjo fitting.
That’s the voltage regulator on the back of the core support. Classic three-terminal voltage regulator.
Welp, I hope I win, but I don't like the modification been done, dist, brake booster. But very nice on everything else. And a heater would be nice too!or more of a street rod. Rather than grandma's race car from the past. All tho, very nice.😮