What is a lens you keep getting recommended but when you actually got it, you were kinda disappointed? 😔 Capture One Pro - 65% OFF! geni.us/bXP1c FREE Filmmaking Course: www.jasonvong.com/freefilmcourse
Jason Vong Sony Zeiss 24 1.8. Lacking OSS is a pain for my shaky hand, when it is paired with my a6300. I ended up using the 16-70 a lot more, even in low light.
This is SO TRUE! People used to shout about how usable and versatile the 50mm focal length was but I found I never had enough space for me to back up and was only really good in wide open spaces or controlled environments. Having switched to a full frame years later, I now see what people were talking about! And properly understood that I was actually at a roughly 80mm focal length on my APSC!
he is misleading people with his video. People should stick to read the lens specifications. for example Sony50mm E 32° angle of view. Sigma50mm E 47° angle of view. Sony50mm FE 47° angle of view.
I really hated my 50mm on a crop sensor, until I moved to a full-frame and it was awesome. Then, I went back to a crop and I love the 50 mm now. It's essentially the portrait lens that we all need. Terrible for street and general use, though. I like my 23 mm most for that.
I found the part about you not fully understanding crop sensors dope. Would love to see a video about your journey as a photographer from beginning to now. Like about your first camera, your first big break, your inspiration or what led to you becoming a photographer. I think it'd be dope.
For portraits I like to still stick to a 56mm to 85mm f/1.4 or f 1.8 crop or not. Regardless of having to move back sometimes, the compression plus the large aperture are hard to beat when working together for separation. People can also start looking a little unnatural if you happen to get too close with those wider focal lengths.
@@poquerRafa I am totally doing that and the people i take portraits of were aware of that before me. Still correcting this. I love the lens till this day since it's on my camera daily. :) Thanks for the replies.
Don't worry, 50mm is great. I've used a 50 for 15yrs more than any lens for street and portrait work. It's a great focal length for composing and the restrictions make for better shots when you have to work through it.
@@Ben-rz9cf Racism is out of intention , being confused not. So this kind of accusation makes no actual sense. (besides the obvious joky character of the OP, which makes it even + inapropriate x) )
TIPS: If you have taken images on your kit-lense and you want to get a prime lens - your first job is to take your image library and sort it on focal length. Now - beginners have a tendency to use zooms either full wide or full long (depending on the kit-lense zoom range), so expect that most images are grouped around those two focal ranges. But also take note if a lot of images that you like are grouping around either 35 or 50 mm full-frame equivalent (23 or 35 mm APS-C). Then start to consider if the topics of such groupings vary (landscapes/arcitecture/friends around cafe-table typically group towards more 35 mm. More intimate street photography and portraits are probably grouping more around 50 mm equivalent as a rule of thumb). Now it is time to ask "why do I want a prime" while looking at your images. Do you like to get up close to the "action" while getting in some wider context as well? 35 mm is your first frame. Do you like to isolate people/subjects - the 50 mm is your friend (also because it will compress depth of field more and get you a blurrier background). When learning with a kit-lens we are usually not conscious about where we place the zoom-ring. But many will have an instinctive preference - indicating if one likes the wider look or the more closed in look. So trust your own catalogue of images. And remember, if you are getting a new lens and not a new sensor-size, one does not need to convert the millimetres. The only reason why we use 35 and 50 mm "equivalent" is that we grew up with pretty much only one "sensor" - 35mm film. Since the sensor on my Fuji is APS-C with 1.5 crop, it just means that 23 mm is equivalent to a 35 mm analogue camera/full-frame digital camera. Personally, I am leaning to 35 mm. But not totally. Because my first camera (for 10 years) had only one lens - a 40 mm 2.8. By shooting with that alone, the field of view became internalized. I did not really have to look through the viewfinder since I knew what the lens/camera/film was seeing. So I guess I can blame childhood for my "choice".
Would have been nice to have this video when I started a year ago. But I love your humor and knowledge. Always talking about important stuff that we all need to be aware of. Thanks dude
Literally ordered the sony 50mm 1.8 last night...just changed my order to the sigma 30mm 1.4. I didn't know I needed this video, but Jason Vong did...what is this sorcery?
alphaxfang No image stabilization! I have the 18-105 with oss for those cases. The Sigma lenses is primarily for photos and video work on a tripod only.
@@EthanChlebowski well then that's a good choice for your set up... Ah and one thing to consider too... The bokeh ball, personally i don't like sigma bokeh ball... Kind of busy looking... But if it fit with your taste then go with that lens, it's one fast sharp lens for sure...
@@andrebauer777 Are you fucking kidding me?! My lens is DX. That means it's built for a cropped sensor. My camera is a cropped sensor. So if I put my cropped sensor lens on my cropped sensor body, what the fuck is the focal length?? OF COURSE ITS THE CORRECT FOCAL LENGTH, NO MULTIPLICATION. I can't believe how fuckin stupid people are
@ 5:44 you say that also true for APS-C lenses made for crop sensors. You have to multiply it. Is that true I thought if it is a lens made for crop sensors like a canon EFS, then there no multiplication needed.
The crop factor is a property of the sensor, not of the lens. If does not matter what lens you use. The crop factor is not something real. It is just because full frame sensor is 36 mm wide and APS-C is 22.3 mm wide. This is basically all you need to know and you can reduce everything from it. 36 / 22.3 = 1.61. Note it is pure an convention that the 35 mm equivalences are used as a standard. They are no more real than anyone else. If you want to take a photo that has as much horizontally than is the distance you must use cal length that is same as the sensor width. That is 36 mm (or 35 mm) on full frame. On APS-C you should use 22 mm (or 24 mm). Whether the lens is FF or APS-C does not matter. The former just spreads light more outside the sensor. Now there is one case where the lens does matter and that is especially with mirrorless cameras. If you use an EF-S or EF-S lens on full frame EOS R-series camera you must apply the crop factor as the camera goes into crop mode. So technically the crop factor is the maximum of the crop factors of the body and the lens. With Canon DSLR s that is not an issue as they cannot use crop lenses.
I still love my 50mm. I bought it for my t3i about 6 yrs ago. Still use it on my now 5dm4. Love the bokeh that’s always given me. I don’t regret buying it
It is honestly good on either. When i was out shooting in monkey forest in bali, i used my 50 1.4 on a crop sensor and it was actually the perfect focal length. Put enough distance between me and the monkeys that i wasn't scaring them off and still got some really creamy gorgeous bokeh, and some of the best shots of my career
I watched a million lens videos for the past few weeks and you are the only video that I'm actually commenting on. Thanks for the good tip on the 1.5 understanding
Here's a really big rabbit hole, I am a travel photographer who uses a 75mm (150mm) on a Micro four/thirds. I will also add that I also cary a 17mm (34mm) for some wide angle shots. On top of that I am buying a full frame because I am starting to do more portraits locally.
have a 30mm 1.4 sigma on my canon 1100d, its wicked ! A bit expensive for a 2nd lens especially if you do it as a hobby and you're like 16 or so, but definetly worth !
I ran into this recently, too, on an APS-C camera. Everyone said nifty fifty, nifty fifty was actually pretty cheap, so I got one. Stunning, stunning bokeh and pretty good for tripod low light / long exposures / etc. It's been changing my game for doing IR photography without a sensor filter conversion, because of the huge light influx. But yeah, I was really stumped as to why it felt like I was always zoomed in; why is everyone going nuts over this thing? Every time I went out with it, it eventually ended up in my bag and stayed there, because it's too shaky (no IS) for macro-ish shots, and it was too close in for everything else. But yeah, now it makes a lot more sense. 35mm equivalents of the same lens are ridiculously expensive in comparison, so... back to the kit lens for now. :D It's actually not bad! Just sort of a bard lens though, Jack of all trades, master of none... Edit: Forgot to say, my spouse calls this lens my "nifty eighty" now... lol.
+Jason Vong Sorry for being pedantic, but no, the true focal length doesn't change, it is still 50mm on any sensor (the focal length is the distance from the optical center of a lens to the film plane). A 50mm on a crop sensor has the same angle of view as a 75 on a FF sensor though, so we can call it a 75mm equivalent because it acts in the same way that a 75 would on FF. FF is an arbitrary frame of reference that we use for historical reasons (the prevalence of 35mm, aka FF, film cameras). Likewise, the DOF and amount of total light reaching the sensor (the determining factor for photon shot noise) when using a lens on APS-C can also be multiplied by the crop factor to see how they behave, so we can say a 50mm f/2 lens on APS-C acts like a 75mm f/4 lens on FF, or is equivalent to. By this we don't mean that the focal length or aperture actually changed, but those two lenses on those respective formats will produce very close images with respect to image noise, depth of field, and field of view. Canon APS-C users should actually have a slightly smaller APS-C format and should multiply by 1.6 as their crop factor. Other APS-C are closer to 1.5, I'm not exactly sure for all brands, I think Samsung NX is 1.54. 50mm is supposedly a 'normal' lens and should have a small amount of distortion..., but 50mm is not the most 'normal' per se, for a true 'normal' lens the focal length should be the same as the sensor diagonal, aka around 43mm in the case of full frame, ... so a 40mm is actually closer to that than a 50mm is, and Pentax actually makes a 43mm pancake lens. Or for a 'normal' lens on APS-C look for a 28-30mm lens.
Common core strikes. 2 * 1.5 = 3, not 4. Btw it is simpler just to adjust one f-stop i.e.a f/2.0 is equivalent to f/2.8. It is close enough for anyone who does not measure bokeh with a ruler. There is no true normal. It is an arbitrary concept. In movies 50 mm is also normal even thogh the frame is comparable to APS-C.
When I started photography I got a kit lens and 50mm and most of the time it was difficult to get the frame I want with the 50mm. Therefore I went to 35mm on a crop body and it felt perfect for portraits. As for what tutorials I would really want to see "how to pose a model"'. Keep making great videos!
get a 50mm if you're looking for that foreground-background compression, and do understand that you need considerable amount of space between you and subject, which means, either studio scenario or scripted shot with full control over your set. it's kinda fun to do full/long shot with a short tele like the 50
Great vid! Thanks :) The number on the lens is usually the “true” focal length (on on super zooms or compact cameras you many times will see the FF equiv. field of view. What you mean is that a 50mm lens on an APS-C body gives you a 75mm FF equivalent field of view. This point is that we use the FF equivalent field of view as a reference to compare the field of view on bodies with ither sensor sizes.
he is misleading people with his video. People should stick to read the lens specifications. for example Sony50mm E 32° angle of view. Sigma50mm E 47° angle of view. Sony50mm FE 47° angle of view.
Thanks for the video. Over the years, I have tried 50mm, 55mm, 45mm, and 40mm focal lengths. All four are considered “normal” or “standard” focal lengths for “full-frame” cameras. I personally prefer the 40mm.
Long story short, A 50mm is the best starting focal distance for all-around shooting. Just know the crop factor of your camera, and what you want to shoot. If you're using a cropped APSC sensor, get a 35mm instead. If your focus is landscapes go about 1/2 that.
I remember when I first bought my Canon T3i people told me the same thing, get a 50mm. I got and was like “wtf it’s so zoomed in”. Now that I know what I’m doing, I enjoy it on crop cameras for that “portrait” look, though I do love my 40mm a little bit more lol
This guy is a beginner. If you buy a lens designed for a cropped sensor the focal length marked will be accurate. Only when you mis-match a full-frame lens with a cropped sensor will you encounter problems.
50mm focal length on APS-C it *is* 50mm. The reason you multiply is because you want to see which focal length you would have to use on a 35mm camera to get the same result. It's like saying that 50mm on FF is actually 32mm on a Hasselblad.
I find myself going back to using a 35mm equivalent lens (that would be 23mm on an APS-C camera) for documentary images. Anything wider starts showing distortion, especially in faces near the edge of the image, and anything longer does not always let you get close enough. If I carry one lens it’s that one, not a 50mm.
I have a 85mm 1.8 on crop sensor which is basically 135 full frame. It's kinda tight zoomed but amazing for getting candid head shots when someone is across the room or a distance away.
im asian myself and i got confused by 2 different videos about a7s3 (1 was from Potato Jet and second one was from Jason Vong and i got confused for a second before realizing that they were different people :) )
Man, thank you so much! 😁 I found this video exactly one day after buying the 50mm 1.8 STM for my Canon 80D and I must say that it helped me a lot. I decided to return it and just got a Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 instead. I was already aware of the "80mm equivalent" but decided to give it a try anyway, specially because I already own a prime 24mm 2.8 STM (about 38mm equivalent) and I love it. Besides, I was in that mindset that "primes help you learn more about composition". I've been having a great experience with the 24mm and I do believe that limiting myself helped me learn a lot. But it took me just 4 hours to realize that in my case this does NOT apply to the 50mm, because the "80mm equivalent" is too narrow for the type of photography I like (Street / Architecture). I found myself constantly frustrated with lack of space to back up or even trying to force myself to take candid photos - which I don't even like that much - just to use what the lens has to offer. For now I'm gonna use the Sigma as my walk around lens and the 24mm 2.8 for travel or to challenge myself with a prime. I also have a 50-250mm on the telephoto end, if needed.
I came to a lot of these came conclusions when I started doing photography 😅. One thing to note is the crop factor on Canon is actually 1.6. On Sony it's 1.5. However if you're using a Micro 4/3s system, it's a 2x crop. Also the Canon M50 w/ the 50mm on a speed booster is pretty sweet. It gives you an equivalent focal length of 57mm.
He doesn't even mention that if you buy a cropped-sensor specific lens, the focal length it is rated for will be true. Only when you put a full-frame lens on a cropped sensor will the issues arise.
@@johnmcard3116 Nope. Focal length is a physical spec of the lens. And it's a measurement of how the light is being bent to be focused. A cropped sensor lens has the exact same focal length as a full frame version if they have the same numbers. A 50mm FF lens on FF body has the same 50mm focal length of a APS-C lens on APS-C body. . The thing that changes is the field of view. The optics behave the same. Field of view is cropped as long as you're not on full frame, so just multiply it. APS-C lenses are just made smaller so there's no light "wastage", but the field of view is still effectively cropped. That is why crop sensor kit lenses have a different range (18-55), so that it provides approximately the same field of view (after the crop factor)as a 24-70 kit lens on a FF body. Check out Gerald Undone's video on crop sensors.
I have and APSC camera and I mainly use 2 lenses: my 18-200 sigma for my everyday lens and documents shots and my 85mm Nikon for my portrait lens. I have done small time weddings and debut. I have a 35mm, I bought when I was learning photography on my own. Now I only use it at night, street photography. Because after several trainings I learned to get the most out of my 18-200mm. I have been thinking of selling my 35mm. Maybe if I got my first full frame I will make the 35mm a permanent to that... or maybe the 85mm.
As a beginner still learning how to use my Sony NEX 7 that came with the Sony 18-55mm kit lens after watching a few TH-camrs talk about lenses if I decide to upgrade from my kit lens it will be for that Sigma 30mm F1.4 Contemporary DC DN Lens for Sony E or the Sony😊 35mm 1.8 because I heard that two of those lenses would each put out better quality videos the the Sony 18-mm kit lens
The thing I found with my 35mm APS-C lens is that even though the crop factor would make it around 50mm, it still behaves as a 35mm. You still need to get as close as you would to the subject to get the same amount of bokeh. Also, I never recommend putting an APS-C lens on a full frame because you're reducing the megapixels by 1.5 (1.6 for Canon). Unless you have a high megapixel body. My A7iv with 33mp would be 14mp with an APS-C lens.
50mm is almost always better on full frame. On a crop sensor, it's basically an 85. Not terrible for portraits still, but you're going to have to have a bit of space in your studio. I would recommend for everyone to get a 50mm AND a 35mm.... Both are really close to the human perceptual range of 42mm, but one is slightly telephoto and thus very flattering for facial features on portraits and the other is slightly wide angle and thus you're able to get really close to your subject and shoot a bunch of different stuff in tight spaces. I use the 2 of these primes for like, 90% of my photography.
so I recently just got a Sony e mount 50mm f1.8 lens and on the box where it says "50mm" It says right below it "35mm full frame" so even though its clearly stating on the box this is 50mm for an apse sensor, does your reasoning still apply!?
If they wrote anything else but the true value of the focal length on a lens... they would straight up lie. Because a 50mm lens always remains a 50mm lens. The glass is shaped to have it's focal point 50mm from the center of the principal plane. Full frame or not, what you mean is that the angle of view is different when you put different sensors behind the lens.
The last camera I bought (and still have)...a Sony HX9V travel zoom...is broken. I have my iPhone 6plus for everyday use, so for a new camera I splurged and got a Sony A7III (many years ago I used a Minolta XD11 35mm SLR). For the lens I chose the FE 24-105mm f/4 because I wanted higher quality glass than the standard kit lens, but didn't want the higher price and weight of the "pro" 24-70mm f/2.8. I don't think I miss the extra stop of light, as the ISO performance of the camera is crazy good.
Paul Blank wider lenses are closer to how we see the world, so we're not as taken aback when we realize we're too close to get what we want in frame. It's also not long enough in situations where you'd reach for a zoom. I only use my 50 when I have no other choice due to low light. 50 can be great if you have the time and space to experiment, but if your subjects are people they probably aren't patient enough. I havnt used one on a full frame though.
Holy Shit I'm so sorry but I literally thought Potato Jet and Jason Vong were the same person and just had an apocalyptic inception moment where I realized you are two different people. The resemblance is insane on so many levels!
Where was this video when I bought my a6400 lol that was the first lens I bought after watching hours of TH-cam .. then my son's kindergarten classroom graduation I was pushing myself against the wall for a shot 😂😂 Was going to say a macro extension vid should be next but guess your on it already , so how about some water photography tips since it's summer
Ha. Nice video. I made the same mistake and bought a 50mm for my canon crop body. Now days my favourite setup is a 35mm on my full frame A7iii and 85mm on my A6500 (essentially a 135mm ish). I can cover almost anything with that setup.
My first real camera was the Sony A6500 paired with the Sigma 30mm F1.4. Perfect starting combo. I added the Sony Zeiss 55mm F1.8 for portraits and the Sigma 16mm F1.4 for videography. Best 3 lens combination for any APS-C camera in my opinion in the Sony line up.
Keep the 30mm no matter what. I made the mistake of selling mine after I got the Sigma 18-35 1.8 since it's effectively 2 primes in 1 lens. I only found out later, for some reason the 30mm f1.4 can cover a full frame image circle even thought it's built as an aps-c
I love my 50mm, but I also love really close pictures. Most of the pics are of my family so I tend to take them as surprise so having that distance from them with a great close up it’s what I enjoy.
John Smith They’re not marked with full frame focal lengths, but the actual focal length of the lens (physical dimension which will not change). What people mean when they say ‘full frame equivalent’ is they’re referring to the FOV that you will get if you’re using FF cameras. So the marking in mm is always correct, only the FOV will change according to what sensor size it’s being paired with.
@@saifaldin_ what I meant is why you can't place notes on lens with mount which can be used only on aps-c bodies with ff equivalent, and how's that correct if aps-c lens marked as 50mm isn't gonna be 50mm , etc etc you know what I mean
John Smith They can’t label it like that; that would be wrong. The only ways they can label it correctly are: A) Label with FL (in mm) which they are doing now) B) Label with FOV (in degs) in which case they would have to put both FF & APSC numbers for each lens. C) Put all of the above Sony uses the same mount for their FF and APS-C mirrorless bodies. So even though the lenses were designed for a particular sensor size, they can still be mounted & used on other sensor sized bodies. I understand that the current way of labeling in FL can be confusing, but I can’t imagine a better way to label them (unless you don’t mind super long names for each lens)
The lens casts a projection onto the sensor. A FF lens casts a larger circle, but for a given focal length e.g. 50mm, the magnification remains the same. So lets say there's a dog in the centre of the image; in each case the dog is the same height on the sensor. There's no [sensor] focal length; there's just focal length. Because the FF lens needs to cast a larger circle than the APS-C lens to cover the larger sensor, the FF lens will usually be wider across. (modern lenses are more complicated internally than the basic single lens optics model which is used to designate their focal length).
There is no FF focal length or APS-C focal length. The lens has only its actual focal length which is not changed by the sensor size. You just should understand that with a smaller sensor one must use shorter focal lenghts. It seems that you have not understood this. I think you should first understand the basics, then you can use the crop factor and equivalences as tools. If you jump directly to them without understanding the basics you get confused.
He shouldn't have made it at all. Totally inaccurate information.. No mention of the fact that you buy lenses made FOR cropped sensors, and their focal lengths will be true.
The problem with “equivalence” in the crop factor is that lenses are not really equivalent. 35mm may have the angle of view of a 52mm in a crop sensor but it’s still a 35mm, that means the lens optical characteristics are those of a 35mm, like subject compression, depth of field at fast aperture, etc..
Nonsense. There is no lens compression. Compression is determined by the distance and the framing. It is very basics of photography that cropping produces same results as increasing the focal length when if comes to perspective. With aperture you can get the equivalence by multiplying with the crop factor or for simplicity switching to 1-1.3 f-stops smaller so Canon 50 mm f/1.8 is equivalent to 80 mm f/2.8 on full frame.
I’d love to see more tutorials on portrait photography! 😁😁 I Love the 50mm focal length, perfect for portraits. But I really agree that 50mm is too tight, so 35mm or 24mm is good for all around.
Depends on what you're shooting,I think both of those are great for b roll type of shots, and even interview type of videos. Only thing is when it comes to video work if you are using a mic mounted on the camera or getting audio in camera as well from your subject you might be a little too far from them , unless you use a lav . Ultimately comes down to what you're filming
i loved the 50mm for my sony. I got the 18-105 G f4 now, love it more because of range. But when i shoot inside, without alot of light it looks alot worse.
Yes and no. In terms of bokeh, if you stand in the same spot with a crop and full frame sensor, you will get the same amount of bokeh. However, in order to frame the subject the same, you will have to back up, so you will get less bokeh then you would.
Followed your IG link to see this! Great topic man, glad you covered this! New photographers will benefit greatly from this especially in the $$ department!
Good content. Im a sony fan recently got into photography and wanted to see tutorials about astrophotography because I didnt see any from you, and nothing can go wrong with Jason Vong!
Yes! The Sony 85mm FE on my A6400 is pretty awesome. Portrait and Street photography are my uses. Admittedly though my sigma 30mm is my most used lens.
I always recommend staying with a full range of zooms early on. Borrow or rent. Then look at what mm you find yourself at most often. Those are the primes to add to your bag. What you'll get the most use out of and usually get some sharpness and bokeh improvements. As for tutorial software or sites... I've honestly yet to find one that has kept my interest long enough. But to be fair I've only seen maybe two or three online.
Sounds right to me, from the perspective of someone getting into EF-M. The 15-45, 22 (it’s cheap small and bright) and 55-200 is covering just about everything. The tele is f3.5 at 55, so good enough to start for portraits and if I just need more background blur or lower ISO then I’ll know a ~50mm prime is ideal. And the 55-200 is IS, as well. There’s only one affordable IS prime, the 28mm macro. The IS EF primes really need to be worth it.
Hey Jason, what do you think of the Sigma 30mm 1.4? I have the Sony a6400 and the sigma 16mm 1.4 and I love the combo. I heard the sigma 30mm 1.4 has some manual focus issues but it’s an easy fix with a firmware update. Should I buy the sigma 30mm 1.4?
Sigma 30mm is dope! Just remember if you're shooting videos, the lens and camera doesn't have stabilization. If you plan on shooting a lot of handheld videos, use the Sony 35mm 1.8 OSS
Jason Vong thank you so much for responding! I don’t really shoot a lot of handheld video. The only handheld video I shoot is usually slowed down B-roll. I really appreciating you getting back to me though. I’m going to pull the trigger and get the sigma 30mm 1.4. I want to eventually have all 3 of the contemporary lenses.
Jeremy Chang I have both the 16 & 30mm. They’re both really good lenses! I use my 16 to capture the whole scene, mostly when I’m shooting cityscapes. I use the 30mm when I want to get a little closer to the action. 30mm is also a great lens for portraits. I hope this helps.
I Just bought the Lumix G7 with the Kit lens 14-42mm , and then I bought a 25mm Lens for Blur in the Background AND...then I bought the 45-150mm Lens, so THAT's pretty much all the lenses I own. These are what I use for my Videotography.
What is a lens you keep getting recommended but when you actually got it, you were kinda disappointed? 😔
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Jason Vong Sony Zeiss 24 1.8. Lacking OSS is a pain for my shaky hand, when it is paired with my a6300. I ended up using the 16-70 a lot more, even in low light.
Sigma 18-35 1.8 nobody every told me that thing is heavy
Hey Jason how come students always get the discounts? What about us broke as f parents who pay for their kids college etc etc lol
@@HueyPProductions YEP! It's heavy hahaha!
@@mr.whoneedsit7856 Use your kids student ID to apply 😂😂😂
"Moral of the story is GET A FULL FRAME CAMERA" LMAO I fell out of my chair 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Welp I followed what he said LOL
And pay the price of a car.
@@mich722 you can get a full frame a7ii for around $600 used. That's right there with APS-C cameras and has IBIS.
@@mich722 no that's hasselblad and medium format Leica
This is SO TRUE! People used to shout about how usable and versatile the 50mm focal length was but I found I never had enough space for me to back up and was only really good in wide open spaces or controlled environments. Having switched to a full frame years later, I now see what people were talking about! And properly understood that I was actually at a roughly 80mm focal length on my APSC!
This should be a series for beginners!
“You’re doing it Vong!”
What the hell is “Vong” with you?
im the 100th like
A funnier, and actually educational series, could be called Vong is Wong!
Sum Ting Vong
he is misleading people with his video.
People should stick to read the lens specifications. for example
Sony50mm E 32° angle of view.
Sigma50mm E 47° angle of view.
Sony50mm FE 47° angle of view.
I really hated my 50mm on a crop sensor, until I moved to a full-frame and it was awesome. Then, I went back to a crop and I love the 50 mm now. It's essentially the portrait lens that we all need. Terrible for street and general use, though. I like my 23 mm most for that.
Do you use a 23mm on APS-C ?
I found the part about you not fully understanding crop sensors dope. Would love to see a video about your journey as a photographer from beginning to now. Like about your first camera, your first big break, your inspiration or what led to you becoming a photographer. I think it'd be dope.
For portraits I like to still stick to a 56mm to 85mm f/1.4 or f 1.8 crop or not. Regardless of having to move back sometimes, the compression plus the large aperture are hard to beat when working together for separation. People can also start looking a little unnatural if you happen to get too close with those wider focal lengths.
This has been an emotional carousel, being a beginner and having ordered the 50mm 1.8 for an apsc...
That lens is just great. Amazing value for money. A great buy, dont worry. But in the begining might stand way closer than you have to
@@poquerRafa I am totally doing that and the people i take portraits of were aware of that before me. Still correcting this. I love the lens till this day since it's on my camera daily. :) Thanks for the replies.
Don't worry, 50mm is great. I've used a 50 for 15yrs more than any lens for street and portrait work. It's a great focal length for composing and the restrictions make for better shots when you have to work through it.
Unless if you're not on fullframe... Lol I came from analog an never use cropped sensors
@@Guuliann I'm on a crop, but I find the 50 (80mm when you factor in the crop) really nice for portraits. Looking to upgrade to FF soon tho. :)
OMG I thought Potato jet was you and vise versa for months now 😂😂😂 I’m so confused rn 🤷🏼♂️
racist
@@Ben-rz9cf i made the same mistake and im Asian soooo
😂😂😂 Me too! I had to search if it was true that they are different youtubers ahahahah
@@Ben-rz9cf Racism is out of intention , being confused not. So this kind of accusation makes no actual sense. (besides the obvious joky character of the OP, which makes it even + inapropriate x) )
me too..
whenever im about to forget, jv here brings out potatojet again🤣
damnmit! im perpetuating this stereotype!!
when he said “who needs gir-“ and the gear flew across the room 🤣🤣i lost it
I agree Jason. The Sony APS-C Cameras are great! But, you do have to buy the lens that’s right for you.
TIPS: If you have taken images on your kit-lense and you want to get a prime lens - your first job is to take your image library and sort it on focal length.
Now - beginners have a tendency to use zooms either full wide or full long (depending on the kit-lense zoom range), so expect that most images are grouped around those two focal ranges.
But also take note if a lot of images that you like are grouping around either 35 or 50 mm full-frame equivalent (23 or 35 mm APS-C).
Then start to consider if the topics of such groupings vary (landscapes/arcitecture/friends around cafe-table typically group towards more 35 mm. More intimate street photography and portraits are probably grouping more around 50 mm equivalent as a rule of thumb).
Now it is time to ask "why do I want a prime" while looking at your images. Do you like to get up close to the "action" while getting in some wider context as well? 35 mm is your first frame. Do you like to isolate people/subjects - the 50 mm is your friend (also because it will compress depth of field more and get you a blurrier background).
When learning with a kit-lens we are usually not conscious about where we place the zoom-ring. But many will have an instinctive preference - indicating if one likes the wider look or the more closed in look. So trust your own catalogue of images.
And remember, if you are getting a new lens and not a new sensor-size, one does not need to convert the millimetres. The only reason why we use 35 and 50 mm "equivalent" is that we grew up with pretty much only one "sensor" - 35mm film. Since the sensor on my Fuji is APS-C with 1.5 crop, it just means that 23 mm is equivalent to a 35 mm analogue camera/full-frame digital camera.
Personally, I am leaning to 35 mm. But not totally. Because my first camera (for 10 years) had only one lens - a 40 mm 2.8. By shooting with that alone, the field of view became internalized. I did not really have to look through the viewfinder since I knew what the lens/camera/film was seeing. So I guess I can blame childhood for my "choice".
Would have been nice to have this video when I started a year ago. But I love your humor and knowledge. Always talking about important stuff that we all need to be aware of. Thanks dude
Sigma 30mm f1.4 for my APSC SONY A6400🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
our lord and savior for Sony APSC... SIGMA!!!
Sigma all the way with a6400. Best combo ever
Sad that Sony doesnt make faster than 1.8 for APS-C and more sad that not stabilized
@@charlien4153 actually sony apsc 35mm and 50mm are OSS
@@charlien4153 They wouldn't be able to sell FF lens and cameras otherwise....
Literally ordered the sony 50mm 1.8 last night...just changed my order to the sigma 30mm 1.4.
I didn't know I needed this video, but Jason Vong did...what is this sorcery?
do you have in body image stabilization? if not better get that sony 35mm 1.8 that OSS will help more than extra .4 aperture...
alphaxfang No image stabilization! I have the 18-105 with oss for those cases. The Sigma lenses is primarily for photos and video work on a tripod only.
@@EthanChlebowski well then that's a good choice for your set up... Ah and one thing to consider too... The bokeh ball, personally i don't like sigma bokeh ball... Kind of busy looking... But if it fit with your taste then go with that lens, it's one fast sharp lens for sure...
@@alphaxfang Indeed, I'll keep an eye out for it. I mainly wanted the lens for the sharpness!
Ta-Kuan Fuan That’s what I like to hear, I’m stoked!
85 on a APS-C, why not? The recommendation a portrait lens is 85mm to 135mm
I think 85mm on APS-C is too much tele for many situations. The sigma 56mm 1.4 is smaller, faster and offers a good focal lenght I think.
Truth
If the 85 lens is made for a cropped sensor, it will be an 85.
WhatCheif Network: no. if the label says 85mm it is 85mm. and the field of view is like 120mm on an apsc.
@@andrebauer777 Are you fucking kidding me?!
My lens is DX. That means it's built for a cropped sensor. My camera is a cropped sensor. So if I put my cropped sensor lens on my cropped sensor body, what the fuck is the focal length?? OF COURSE ITS THE CORRECT FOCAL LENGTH, NO MULTIPLICATION.
I can't believe how fuckin stupid people are
@ 5:44 you say that also true for APS-C lenses made for crop sensors. You have to multiply it. Is that true I thought if it is a lens made for crop sensors like a canon EFS, then there no multiplication needed.
The crop factor is a property of the sensor, not of the lens. If does not matter what lens you use. The crop factor is not something real. It is just because full frame sensor is 36 mm wide and APS-C is 22.3 mm wide. This is basically all you need to know and you can reduce everything from it. 36 / 22.3 = 1.61. Note it is pure an convention that the 35 mm equivalences are used as a standard. They are no more real than anyone else.
If you want to take a photo that has as much horizontally than is the distance you must use cal length that is same as the sensor width. That is 36 mm (or 35 mm) on full frame. On APS-C you should use 22 mm (or 24 mm). Whether the lens is FF or APS-C does not matter. The former just spreads light more outside the sensor.
Now there is one case where the lens does matter and that is especially with mirrorless cameras. If you use an EF-S or EF-S lens on full frame EOS R-series camera you must apply the crop factor as the camera goes into crop mode. So technically the crop factor is the maximum of the crop factors of the body and the lens. With Canon DSLR s that is not an issue as they cannot use crop lenses.
I still love my 50mm. I bought it for my t3i about 6 yrs ago. Still use it on my now 5dm4. Love the bokeh that’s always given me. I don’t regret buying it
It is honestly good on either. When i was out shooting in monkey forest in bali, i used my 50 1.4 on a crop sensor and it was actually the perfect focal length. Put enough distance between me and the monkeys that i wasn't scaring them off and still got some really creamy gorgeous bokeh, and some of the best shots of my career
I watched a million lens videos for the past few weeks and you are the only video that I'm actually commenting on. Thanks for the good tip on the 1.5 understanding
5:24 they do that because the number printed on the lens is actually the exact value and the "true focal length".
And not when you multiply it .
Here's a really big rabbit hole, I am a travel photographer who uses a 75mm (150mm) on a Micro four/thirds. I will also add that I also cary a 17mm (34mm) for some wide angle shots. On top of that I am buying a full frame because I am starting to do more portraits locally.
have a 30mm 1.4 sigma on my canon 1100d, its wicked ! A bit expensive for a 2nd lens especially if you do it as a hobby and you're like 16 or so, but definetly worth !
I ran into this recently, too, on an APS-C camera. Everyone said nifty fifty, nifty fifty was actually pretty cheap, so I got one. Stunning, stunning bokeh and pretty good for tripod low light / long exposures / etc. It's been changing my game for doing IR photography without a sensor filter conversion, because of the huge light influx. But yeah, I was really stumped as to why it felt like I was always zoomed in; why is everyone going nuts over this thing? Every time I went out with it, it eventually ended up in my bag and stayed there, because it's too shaky (no IS) for macro-ish shots, and it was too close in for everything else. But yeah, now it makes a lot more sense. 35mm equivalents of the same lens are ridiculously expensive in comparison, so... back to the kit lens for now. :D It's actually not bad! Just sort of a bard lens though, Jack of all trades, master of none...
Edit: Forgot to say, my spouse calls this lens my "nifty eighty" now... lol.
I'd like a tutorial showing start to finish of planning, filming, and editing a TH-cam video.
+Jason Vong Sorry for being pedantic, but no, the true focal length doesn't change, it is still 50mm on any sensor (the focal length is the distance from the optical center of a lens to the film plane). A 50mm on a crop sensor has the same angle of view as a 75 on a FF sensor though, so we can call it a 75mm equivalent because it acts in the same way that a 75 would on FF. FF is an arbitrary frame of reference that we use for historical reasons (the prevalence of 35mm, aka FF, film cameras). Likewise, the DOF and amount of total light reaching the sensor (the determining factor for photon shot noise) when using a lens on APS-C can also be multiplied by the crop factor to see how they behave, so we can say a 50mm f/2 lens on APS-C acts like a 75mm f/4 lens on FF, or is equivalent to. By this we don't mean that the focal length or aperture actually changed, but those two lenses on those respective formats will produce very close images with respect to image noise, depth of field, and field of view. Canon APS-C users should actually have a slightly smaller APS-C format and should multiply by 1.6 as their crop factor. Other APS-C are closer to 1.5, I'm not exactly sure for all brands, I think Samsung NX is 1.54. 50mm is supposedly a 'normal' lens and should have a small amount of distortion..., but 50mm is not the most 'normal' per se, for a true 'normal' lens the focal length should be the same as the sensor diagonal, aka around 43mm in the case of full frame, ... so a 40mm is actually closer to that than a 50mm is, and Pentax actually makes a 43mm pancake lens. Or for a 'normal' lens on APS-C look for a 28-30mm lens.
Common core strikes. 2 * 1.5 = 3, not 4. Btw it is simpler just to adjust one f-stop i.e.a f/2.0 is equivalent to f/2.8. It is close enough for anyone who does not measure bokeh with a ruler.
There is no true normal. It is an arbitrary concept. In movies 50 mm is also normal even thogh the frame is comparable to APS-C.
When I started photography I got a kit lens and 50mm and most of the time it was difficult to get the frame I want with the 50mm. Therefore I went to 35mm on a crop body and it felt perfect for portraits. As for what tutorials I would really want to see "how to pose a model"'.
Keep making great videos!
Thank you for all the insights. Just got the a7c with the 20mm 1.8
Can you post the pictures of the models? For research purposes.
get a 50mm if you're looking for that foreground-background compression, and do understand that you need considerable amount of space between you and subject, which means, either studio scenario or scripted shot with full control over your set. it's kinda fun to do full/long shot with a short tele like the 50
Great vid! Thanks :)
The number on the lens is usually the “true” focal length (on on super zooms or compact cameras you many times will see the FF equiv. field of view.
What you mean is that a 50mm lens on an APS-C body gives you a 75mm FF equivalent field of view.
This point is that we use the FF equivalent field of view as a reference to compare the field of view on bodies with ither sensor sizes.
he is misleading people with his video.
People should stick to read the lens specifications. for example
Sony50mm E 32° angle of view.
Sigma50mm E 47° angle of view.
Sony50mm FE 47° angle of view.
@@kiyoshim9593 Nobody understands degrees.
Thanks for the video.
Over the years, I have tried 50mm, 55mm, 45mm, and 40mm focal lengths. All four are considered “normal” or “standard” focal lengths for “full-frame” cameras. I personally prefer the 40mm.
Long story short, A 50mm is the best starting focal distance for all-around shooting. Just know the crop factor of your camera, and what you want to shoot. If you're using a cropped APSC sensor, get a 35mm instead. If your focus is landscapes go about 1/2 that.
Actually 50 mm is too tight for indoor shooting. 35 mm is better as a general purpose lens.
Best video on the internet ....u made me clear about the lenses and its uses..
I remember when I first bought my Canon T3i people told me the same thing, get a 50mm. I got and was like “wtf it’s so zoomed in”. Now that I know what I’m doing, I enjoy it on crop cameras for that “portrait” look, though I do love my 40mm a little bit more lol
it only costed us $100 to realize our mistake 😂😂😂 much cheaper than going to college
Jason Vong waaay cheaper than going to college. Could’ve bought a whole case of coffee instead haha
If you're on a Fuji system I highly recommend the 35mm F2 or 1.4. I love my 1.4 variant and it lives on my camera almost everyday.
Maybe more "what not to do as a beginner" videos
This guy is a beginner. If you buy a lens designed for a cropped sensor the focal length marked will be accurate. Only when you mis-match a full-frame lens with a cropped sensor will you encounter problems.
just making sure!! All your recommendations are for APSC users, correct?
also keep in mind that each crop camera system can have a different crop factor. For instance, canon APS-C is usually 1.6x and Micro4/3 is usually 2x
Also keep in mind that Fuji cameras have a crop factor of x1.5 lol thanks for educating the public
@@aight365 what?
50mm focal length on APS-C it *is* 50mm. The reason you multiply is because you want to see which focal length you would have to use on a 35mm camera to get the same result. It's like saying that 50mm on FF is actually 32mm on a Hasselblad.
I find myself going back to using a 35mm equivalent lens (that would be 23mm on an APS-C camera) for documentary images. Anything wider starts showing distortion, especially in faces near the edge of the image, and anything longer does not always let you get close enough. If I carry one lens it’s that one, not a 50mm.
I have a 85mm 1.8 on crop sensor which is basically 135 full frame. It's kinda tight zoomed but amazing for getting candid head shots when someone is across the room or a distance away.
So today I learned "Jason Vong" isn't "Potato Jet" 's secondary channel ... They aren't the same guy.
Hope I'm not racist
im asian myself and i got confused by 2 different videos about a7s3 (1 was from Potato Jet and second one was from Jason Vong and i got confused for a second before realizing that they were different people :) )
same same
Glad I wasn’t the only one
It is racist but atleast you didn't mean any harm from it at the start
Jason, I loved your commentary on the difference in the 50mm and the stablization and the crop sizes in camera and the compression
I was going crazy with my 85mm with my nikon d3400... only to know now that would have been a 127.5mm focal length!
Bro please tell me how is the sharpness and autofocus?
Man, thank you so much! 😁
I found this video exactly one day after buying the 50mm 1.8 STM for my Canon 80D and I must say that it helped me a lot. I decided to return it and just got a Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 instead.
I was already aware of the "80mm equivalent" but decided to give it a try anyway, specially because I already own a prime 24mm 2.8 STM (about 38mm equivalent) and I love it. Besides, I was in that mindset that "primes help you learn more about composition".
I've been having a great experience with the 24mm and I do believe that limiting myself helped me learn a lot. But it took me just 4 hours to realize that in my case this does NOT apply to the 50mm, because the "80mm equivalent" is too narrow for the type of photography I like (Street / Architecture). I found myself constantly frustrated with lack of space to back up or even trying to force myself to take candid photos - which I don't even like that much - just to use what the lens has to offer.
For now I'm gonna use the Sigma as my walk around lens and the 24mm 2.8 for travel or to challenge myself with a prime. I also have a 50-250mm on the telephoto end, if needed.
I came to a lot of these came conclusions when I started doing photography 😅. One thing to note is the crop factor on Canon is actually 1.6. On Sony it's 1.5. However if you're using a Micro 4/3s system, it's a 2x crop. Also the Canon M50 w/ the 50mm on a speed booster is pretty sweet. It gives you an equivalent focal length of 57mm.
He doesn't even mention that if you buy a cropped-sensor specific lens, the focal length it is rated for will be true. Only when you put a full-frame lens on a cropped sensor will the issues arise.
@@johnmcard3116 Nope. Focal length is a physical spec of the lens. And it's a measurement of how the light is being bent to be focused. A cropped sensor lens has the exact same focal length as a full frame version if they have the same numbers.
A 50mm FF lens on FF body has the same 50mm focal length of a APS-C lens on APS-C body.
.
The thing that changes is the field of view. The optics behave the same. Field of view is cropped as long as you're not on full frame, so just multiply it.
APS-C lenses are just made smaller so there's no light "wastage", but the field of view is still effectively cropped.
That is why crop sensor kit lenses have a different range (18-55), so that it provides approximately the same field of view (after the crop factor)as a 24-70 kit lens on a FF body.
Check out Gerald Undone's video on crop sensors.
I have and APSC camera and I mainly use 2 lenses: my 18-200 sigma for my everyday lens and documents shots and my 85mm Nikon for my portrait lens. I have done small time weddings and debut. I have a 35mm, I bought when I was learning photography on my own. Now I only use it at night, street photography. Because after several trainings I learned to get the most out of my 18-200mm. I have been thinking of selling my 35mm. Maybe if I got my first full frame I will make the 35mm a permanent to that... or maybe the 85mm.
I just got 50 f1.2.. damn, where have YT recommendations been..
Feel the same way
I've got a 50mm f1.4 first and I LOVE it to this day
As a beginner still learning how to use my Sony NEX 7 that came with the Sony 18-55mm kit lens after watching a few TH-camrs talk about lenses if I decide to upgrade from my kit lens it will be for that Sigma 30mm F1.4 Contemporary DC DN Lens for Sony E or the Sony😊 35mm 1.8 because I heard that two of those lenses would each put out better quality videos the the Sony 18-mm kit lens
I'd really love to see more on event photography, low light situations, performance of arts as well as studio stuff.
idk y why i DIED when u said “totally not filming this on a separate day” hahahaha
Please do a review of the sigma 16mm ,30mm and 56 with the a6400 on the FeiyuTech G6 Plus Gimbal PLEASE!
I'm glad I just found this video, I have an a6400 and was thinking of getting a 50mm but now you changed my mind. Love your videos!
Lmao 30 seconds in the video and I'm already laughing
😂😂😂
The thing I found with my 35mm APS-C lens is that even though the crop factor would make it around 50mm, it still behaves as a 35mm. You still need to get as close as you would to the subject to get the same amount of bokeh.
Also, I never recommend putting an APS-C lens on a full frame because you're reducing the megapixels by 1.5 (1.6 for Canon). Unless you have a high megapixel body. My A7iv with 33mp would be 14mp with an APS-C lens.
50mm is almost always better on full frame. On a crop sensor, it's basically an 85. Not terrible for portraits still, but you're going to have to have a bit of space in your studio. I would recommend for everyone to get a 50mm AND a 35mm.... Both are really close to the human perceptual range of 42mm, but one is slightly telephoto and thus very flattering for facial features on portraits and the other is slightly wide angle and thus you're able to get really close to your subject and shoot a bunch of different stuff in tight spaces. I use the 2 of these primes for like, 90% of my photography.
That human perceptual range is pure nonsense. Human field if vision is over 180 degrees.
so I recently just got a Sony e mount 50mm f1.8 lens and on the box where it says "50mm" It says right below it "35mm full frame" so even though its clearly stating on the box this is 50mm for an apse sensor, does your reasoning still apply!?
If they wrote anything else but the true value of the focal length on a lens... they would straight up lie. Because a 50mm lens always remains a 50mm lens. The glass is shaped to have it's focal point 50mm from the center of the principal plane. Full frame or not, what you mean is that the angle of view is different when you put different sensors behind the lens.
The last camera I bought (and still have)...a Sony HX9V travel zoom...is broken. I have my iPhone 6plus for everyday use, so for a new camera I splurged and got a Sony A7III (many years ago I used a Minolta XD11 35mm SLR). For the lens I chose the FE 24-105mm f/4 because I wanted higher quality glass than the standard kit lens, but didn't want the higher price and weight of the "pro" 24-70mm f/2.8. I don't think I miss the extra stop of light, as the ISO performance of the camera is crazy good.
What is obsession with wider angle lenses. I love the crop / zoomed in portraits (shoulders and higher).
Tack sharp eye AF and bokeh. Less distortion
probably not that useful for video unless u have like a team or doing films and have a lot of time to change lenses for framing.
Why? To capture both the object and the "instagramable" environment of course, lol.
Paul Blank wider lenses are closer to how we see the world, so we're not as taken aback when we realize we're too close to get what we want in frame. It's also not long enough in situations where you'd reach for a zoom. I only use my 50 when I have no other choice due to low light. 50 can be great if you have the time and space to experiment, but if your subjects are people they probably aren't patient enough. I havnt used one on a full frame though.
Holy Shit I'm so sorry but I literally thought Potato Jet and Jason Vong were the same person and just had an apocalyptic inception moment where I realized you are two different people. The resemblance is insane on so many levels!
Where was this video when I bought my a6400 lol that was the first lens I bought after watching hours of TH-cam .. then my son's kindergarten classroom graduation I was pushing myself against the wall for a shot 😂😂
Was going to say a macro extension vid should be next but guess your on it already , so how about some water photography tips since it's summer
Ha. Nice video. I made the same mistake and bought a 50mm for my canon crop body.
Now days my favourite setup is a 35mm on my full frame A7iii and 85mm on my A6500 (essentially a 135mm ish). I can cover almost anything with that setup.
i just ordered the 50mm f/1.8 for my 200d and its on its way lol, no going back now
I have the same setup and love it,
Being on a budget, I got the Canon 50mm f/1.8 and the Canon 24mm f/1.8 for my Canon T7i. Love these prime lens!
My first real camera was the Sony A6500 paired with the Sigma 30mm F1.4. Perfect starting combo. I added the Sony Zeiss 55mm F1.8 for portraits and the Sigma 16mm F1.4 for videography. Best 3 lens combination for any APS-C camera in my opinion in the Sony line up.
Keep the 30mm no matter what. I made the mistake of selling mine after I got the Sigma 18-35 1.8 since it's effectively 2 primes in 1 lens.
I only found out later, for some reason the 30mm f1.4 can cover a full frame image circle even thought it's built as an aps-c
This video was so helpful in recommending good lenses. I feel like I say this every video but it was amazing as usual!
I love my 50mm, but I also love really close pictures. Most of the pics are of my family so I tend to take them as surprise so having that distance from them with a great close up it’s what I enjoy.
It really depends on what type of photography you are in when choosing the next lens, and man this is a really good guide
glad this looks solid!
I think this is your funniest video I’ve seen 😂😂😂
Marking aps-c lens with ff focal length rates just ridiculous, and I never understand that
John Smith They’re not marked with full frame focal lengths, but the actual focal length of the lens (physical dimension which will not change). What people mean when they say ‘full frame equivalent’ is they’re referring to the FOV that you will get if you’re using FF cameras. So the marking in mm is always correct, only the FOV will change according to what sensor size it’s being paired with.
@@saifaldin_ what I meant is why you can't place notes on lens with mount which can be used only on aps-c bodies with ff equivalent, and how's that correct if aps-c lens marked as 50mm isn't gonna be 50mm , etc etc you know what I mean
John Smith They can’t label it like that; that would be wrong. The only ways they can label it correctly are:
A) Label with FL (in mm) which they are doing now)
B) Label with FOV (in degs) in which case they would have to put both FF & APSC numbers for each lens.
C) Put all of the above
Sony uses the same mount for their FF and APS-C mirrorless bodies. So even though the lenses were designed for a particular sensor size, they can still be mounted & used on other sensor sized bodies.
I understand that the current way of labeling in FL can be confusing, but I can’t imagine a better way to label them (unless you don’t mind super long names for each lens)
The lens casts a projection onto the sensor. A FF lens casts a larger circle, but for a given focal length e.g. 50mm, the magnification remains the same. So lets say there's a dog in the centre of the image; in each case the dog is the same height on the sensor.
There's no [sensor] focal length; there's just focal length.
Because the FF lens needs to cast a larger circle than the APS-C lens to cover the larger sensor, the FF lens will usually be wider across. (modern lenses are more complicated internally than the basic single lens optics model which is used to designate their focal length).
There is no FF focal length or APS-C focal length. The lens has only its actual focal length which is not changed by the sensor size. You just should understand that with a smaller sensor one must use shorter focal lenghts. It seems that you have not understood this. I think you should first understand the basics, then you can use the crop factor and equivalences as tools. If you jump directly to them without understanding the basics you get confused.
I got a sigma 17-70 F2.8-4 DC Macro. It replaced the kit lens on my Nikon D7200. It works well.
damn the feels, i can relate
you should've made this video 4 years ago
lol
He shouldn't have made it at all. Totally inaccurate information.. No mention of the fact that you buy lenses made FOR cropped sensors, and their focal lengths will be true.
The problem with “equivalence” in the crop factor is that lenses are not really equivalent. 35mm may have the angle of view of a 52mm in a crop sensor but it’s still a 35mm, that means the lens optical characteristics are those of a 35mm, like subject compression, depth of field at fast aperture, etc..
Nonsense. There is no lens compression. Compression is determined by the distance and the framing. It is very basics of photography that cropping produces same results as increasing the focal length when if comes to perspective.
With aperture you can get the equivalence by multiplying with the crop factor or for simplicity switching to 1-1.3 f-stops smaller so Canon 50 mm f/1.8 is equivalent to 80 mm f/2.8 on full frame.
@@okaro6595 in order to get the equivalent framing you need to move further away from the subject in crop, this is what changes the compression.
I’d love to see more tutorials on portrait photography! 😁😁
I Love the 50mm focal length, perfect for portraits. But I really agree that 50mm is too tight, so 35mm or 24mm is good for all around.
For apsc?
@@JeremyCWW yes!
Nope, definately you are not right. Take a portrait photo with 24/35 and compare it to 50/85.
which lens should I buy next for video work. I have 16mm 1.4
56mm or 30mm? Thanks!
Depends on what you're shooting,I think both of those are great for b roll type of shots, and even interview type of videos. Only thing is when it comes to video work if you are using a mic mounted on the camera or getting audio in camera as well from your subject you might be a little too far from them , unless you use a lav . Ultimately comes down to what you're filming
Finally one talking about that.
I made the same mistake
what is the best video lens for sony a7r3 ? is sony 16-35mm f2.8 gm best? but more expensive.. is there any other recommendations?
Another good zoom lens which isn't as wide as the 16-35 but is a great lens for the price is the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 👍
So true, wish I had seen this earlier...
i loved the 50mm for my sony.
I got the 18-105 G f4 now, love it more because of range.
But when i shoot inside, without alot of light it looks alot worse.
How is it? I want to buy the simular 28-135
@@divil2273 28-135 or 18-135? .
The 18-135 comes with less quality, both image and build.
@@Onenamemedia2 no the 28-135 f4. The cinema lens
@@divil2273 oke, dont know that one, never used it.
Let me know if its a good one👌
"5 tips when going freelance"
*Does the aperture fall into the crop factor as well 🤔 say f1.8 on a crop sensor is actually a f2.7 😬*
Yes and no. In terms of bokeh, if you stand in the same spot with a crop and full frame sensor, you will get the same amount of bokeh. However, in order to frame the subject the same, you will have to back up, so you will get less bokeh then you would.
Neither the focal length nor the aperture changes. Equivalences are just tools for comparison.
@@lavaninja9602 Bokeh his not determined by the distance as long as the background is far enough.
Dudeeee finallyyy a newwwwww videoooo
been cooking up other videos! higher production, they're coming soon!
Jason Vong can’t wait!! Btw, you are my favorite youtuber (who cares about Potato Jet).
5:24 Crop factor depends on the sensor size. It may be 2x, 1.5x, or 1.65x. So, it doesn't make sense to put the cropped focal length on the lens.
Followed your IG link to see this! Great topic man, glad you covered this!
New photographers will benefit greatly from this especially in the $$ department!
Welcome to my TH-cam!
@@JasonVong Thank you Jason! I appreciate your high quality content! I know it takes time and skill to yield results such as this so, thank you!
Good content. Im a sony fan recently got into photography and wanted to see tutorials about astrophotography because I didnt see any from you, and nothing can go wrong with Jason Vong!
OMG I thought the same thing. I was originally going to get the a7iii bit ended up getting the a6400. You are totally right it feels really close.
@S Tra Would have loved a Porsche but I would take a Honda Civic. This stuff is expensive man. No need to put yourself in financial ruin over it.
@S Tra ultimately the full frame is ridiculously expensive due to the kens
Can you make a video on how you set up your camera when you use a strobe? And what settings you use on your strobe?
There's also a thing like speedboosters for removing that crop factor (when using vintage FF lenses)
Yes! The Sony 85mm FE on my A6400 is pretty awesome. Portrait and Street photography are my uses. Admittedly though my sigma 30mm is my most used lens.
I would love to see a astrophotography video from you, or a collaboration with Sony ambassador Kyle Meyr, and see you take photos together.
I always recommend staying with a full range of zooms early on. Borrow or rent. Then look at what mm you find yourself at most often. Those are the primes to add to your bag. What you'll get the most use out of and usually get some sharpness and bokeh improvements.
As for tutorial software or sites... I've honestly yet to find one that has kept my interest long enough. But to be fair I've only seen maybe two or three online.
Sounds right to me, from the perspective of someone getting into EF-M. The 15-45, 22 (it’s cheap small and bright) and 55-200 is covering just about everything. The tele is f3.5 at 55, so good enough to start for portraits and if I just need more background blur or lower ISO then I’ll know a ~50mm prime is ideal. And the 55-200 is IS, as well. There’s only one affordable IS prime, the 28mm macro. The IS EF primes really need to be worth it.
50 is a horrible recommendation for many. Recommendation needs to be on FOV
Using sigma 30mm f1.4 on my sony a6000 and very happy with it 👍
is the sigma 30mm worth it?
@@sixra yes its worth it for myself and the kind of photos that i like to take
great info
Hey Jason, what do you think of the Sigma 30mm 1.4? I have the Sony a6400 and the sigma 16mm 1.4 and I love the combo. I heard the sigma 30mm 1.4 has some manual focus issues but it’s an easy fix with a firmware update. Should I buy the sigma 30mm 1.4?
Sigma 30mm is dope! Just remember if you're shooting videos, the lens and camera doesn't have stabilization. If you plan on shooting a lot of handheld videos, use the Sony 35mm 1.8 OSS
Jason Vong thank you so much for responding! I don’t really shoot a lot of handheld video. The only handheld video I shoot is usually slowed down B-roll. I really appreciating you getting back to me though. I’m going to pull the trigger and get the sigma 30mm 1.4. I want to eventually have all 3 of the contemporary lenses.
@@TJuice1986 I'm choosing between 16 or 30, not sure which to get first , im planning to upgrade from my kit lens
Jeremy Chang I have both the 16 & 30mm. They’re both really good lenses! I use my 16 to capture the whole scene, mostly when I’m shooting cityscapes. I use the 30mm when I want to get a little closer to the action. 30mm is also a great lens for portraits. I hope this helps.
@@TJuice1986 Thanks for the info 🤝🤝, im worried the 16 is a little header to handle than 30, as I've tried it with the kit lens
I Just bought the Lumix G7 with the Kit lens 14-42mm , and then I bought a 25mm Lens for Blur in the Background AND...then I bought the 45-150mm Lens, so THAT's pretty much all the lenses I own. These are what I use for my Videotography.
i would personally liek to se a tutorial about planning a shoot. do you plan it or just wing it?
Man! Your
video is pure Gold ! Thank you very Much.
Which lens do u prefer for family/wedding pictures? 35mm or 55mm?