The forks are a beautiful example of a first attempt at aero. I own a Faggin with SPX with that’s type of fork blade with unicorn forks. Lugs and brake bridges look like Silva.
I recently painted my first bike, a garden variety Peugeot. I used the low vapor paint stripper in several steps. I used rust converter and lots of sanding and filing at the lugs. My brother is a body man and helped me do the paint. We used epoxy primer to seal then 2k primer. Automotive paint with semester eBay stickers that cleared over. Turned out great but time will tell on the rust.
The best rust cure I have found is to mix phospheric acid with a little washing up liquid (for adhesion ) leave for a few hours and rinse off. The rust turns to iron phosphate which is itself rust preventative.
@@BuffsVintageBikes Thanks for the reply. Most important do NOT remove the black deposit the rust has turned into, just prime or paint over it. This acid is the active ingredient in nearly all commercial rust cures. I used it on some garden tools 20 years ago followed by a coat of Hammerite. they have not rusted since.
I concur on saving the originality of a vintage bike's frame finish, with one additional factor: collectibility vs. utility. I have a 1980 Motobecane with 4-mil thick original paint in decent condition, but a hideous color. It's at the blaster's shop now. I was there today to get some pictures of the raw Vitus 888 brazed and lugged frame. I considered apinting it myself, but after a lot of research, I decided on powder coat. It's not a valuable or collectible bike, and was never high-end, so I'm having done in a non-Motobecane color that I like and is unlike any of my other bikes. It is mine, after all. It will be getting reproduction decals that are period correct or from an even earlier period, plus all the original components, including the Rigida 27x1" wheels.
Super job, Brett. I love the channel and itd great to see you improve over the years. If you ever need a 'clean' paint stripper then try acetone. It's superb on cellulose paint and leaves no residue. Many of the pre 1990 Italian metallic or pearl frames that I've worked on here in the UK have been easily stripped with cellulose. Looking forward to seeing the Moser too. I'm a huge fan and my favourite personal bike is a Leader CC with modern Fulcrum Racing Zero wheels. Beautiful but without the fuss of being a Colnago or the bling of Colimbus tubing. Keep up the good work and best wishes from the UK. Pete
Thanks Pete, I appreciate the compliment and thanks for the tip on the acetone, I will most certainly give that a try as I find normal paint stripper was too tedious and messy 🙏🏼👍🏼
Now Buff, if you intended to have the frame blasted, did you really need to strip off those decals? And I have yet to find a paint reader that can handle bicycle tubes. These machines need a sample with a flat surface at least 30 mil sq. to get a good reading. However, if the shredded decals matched the paint, wouldn't they make a good substitute? Your reasoning on why and when to paint was excellent. Just completed restoring an ancient Peugeot tourer. Spent weeks trying to determine if I could keep the old paint. But two days in an oxalic acid bath revealed rust splotches under the paint and I knew I'd have to blast it and respray. Three cheers for alu oxide! And three for you, too.
I did Peter, the blasting isn’t aggressive enough to remove the decals which is why I’m able to protect the chrome by using masking tape 👍🏼 Thanks for the support, appreciated 🙏🏼
I suppose blasting varies according to the blaster's approach and the client's wishes. Been lucky with mine; the guy's a dentist. Never had to razor off a decal yet. You see the need to take greater care, however? Am restoring a '72 Dawes with a chrome fork and rear stays. Similar to the Benotto, some of the chrome is painted. My blaster suggested using stripper to avoid losing chrome from blasting and then repaint as needed. But it looked as if you planned to repaint the Benotto according to original specifications, so if you know exactly where the paint ends and the chrome begins it doesn't matter, yes?
@@peterharrer3261 yes, it would be easy for the blaster to get a little ham fisted on the frame and forcefully remove the decals but I prefer a more delicate approach on these frames. It would also take them longer and time is money. In this instance I’m keeping the bike as original as possible but needed to blast into a very small section of chrome on the seat stays that had some rust I was concerned about. But you’ll need to know these frames very well to spot where I’ve done that if I don’t point it out 😉
@@BuffsVintageBikes Blasting varies a lot in quality and price, doesn't it? My blaster works mostly with big trucks and specialty auto body repair, but he can handle anything and the cost is minimal compared to a commercial truck. And I appreciate the care you take in preserving the original character necessary with Italian racers. I'm more in the "resto-mod" category that includes personal specifications such as upgraded parts and different, often better paint.
Just a heads up that not all the comments that people post are visible to me. It seems to be a standing issue with TH-cam as other content providers are also complaining about it. Dino & World of Ameiso, I can see you guys posted something but I’m unable to view it so you’ll need to try again please.
You’ll notice he protected the chrome with masking tape. The silver oxide blasting wouldn’t penetrate the decals either. If he used a higher grit sand blast you’d remove the decals, but possibly damage the delicate frame in the process
If I recall 1200 and below carried their tubing badge on down tube just above the shifters. 3000, you’re right on the top tube. This model looks like it is a 87 made in 🇲🇽 Mexico. Rumor has it Benotto moved production to Mexico so he could be close to his Latina lover. The truth is probably a lot more boring than that story.
I wish I had the patience and skill to restore framesets like that!
Practice makes perfect John, you’ll be surprised at what you can achieve if you put your mind to it 👍🏼
The forks are a beautiful example of a first attempt at aero. I own a Faggin with SPX with that’s type of fork blade with unicorn forks. Lugs and brake bridges look like Silva.
Agree, I love the shape. I’ve recently seen a Lazarretti with the same forks as well.
Great work mate inspiring for all of us !!!
Thank you 🙏🏼 👍🏼
Love your attention to detail
Thank you, it’s the detail that matters 👍🏼
I’ve tried to do it many times but finally I have to send them to the shop to finish it up. But I will try it again soon. Wish me luck. LoL
Keep at it, success could be around the corner 🙌🏼
I recently painted my first bike, a garden variety Peugeot. I used the low vapor paint stripper in several steps. I used rust converter and lots of sanding and filing at the lugs. My brother is a body man and helped me do the paint. We used epoxy primer to seal then 2k primer. Automotive paint with semester eBay stickers that cleared over. Turned out great but time will tell on the rust.
Sounds like you did some great prep work, I’m sure it will be fine 👍🏼
Excellent as always! Looking forward to next vid already!
Thank you 🙏🏼 👍🏼
Mooi werk Oom 🎉
Dankie André 😄👍🏼
absolutely amazing work mate. Huge fan from Denmark, keep up the amazing work.
Thanks for the support, much appreciated 🙏🏼👍🏼
The best rust cure I have found is to mix phospheric acid with a little washing up liquid (for adhesion ) leave for a few hours and rinse off. The rust turns to iron phosphate which is itself rust preventative.
Thanks for the tip John, I’ll try it sometime 👍🏼
@@BuffsVintageBikes Thanks for the reply. Most important do NOT remove the black deposit the rust has turned into, just prime or paint over it. This acid is the active ingredient in nearly all commercial rust cures. I used it on some garden tools 20 years ago followed by a coat of Hammerite. they have not rusted since.
I concur on saving the originality of a vintage bike's frame finish, with one additional factor: collectibility vs. utility. I have a 1980 Motobecane with 4-mil thick original paint in decent condition, but a hideous color. It's at the blaster's shop now. I was there today to get some pictures of the raw Vitus 888 brazed and lugged frame. I considered apinting it myself, but after a lot of research, I decided on powder coat. It's not a valuable or collectible bike, and was never high-end, so I'm having done in a non-Motobecane color that I like and is unlike any of my other bikes. It is mine, after all. It will be getting reproduction decals that are period correct or from an even earlier period, plus all the original components, including the Rigida 27x1" wheels.
Valid point, not all vintage bikes are collectible or valuable and yet still offer something of worth to the owner 👍🏼
Love the long and detailed video, keep it up
Thanks, I was a little concerned all the talking with the South Africa accent will put people off the vid 😊
@@BuffsVintageBikes No worries sir. You have an excellent presenters voice, enjoy your long format vids! You deserve way more subs BTW.
@@aluminati9918 thanks 🙏🏼 👍🏼
Hi, this is excelent, I have a Benotto 1500 also to restore, where did you find the frame template?
Thank you 👍🏼 By frame template Do you mean the sticker kit? That was made by a talented graphic artist in South Africa.
Super job, Brett. I love the channel and itd great to see you improve over the years. If you ever need a 'clean' paint stripper then try acetone. It's superb on cellulose paint and leaves no residue. Many of the pre 1990 Italian metallic or pearl frames that I've worked on here in the UK have been easily stripped with cellulose. Looking forward to seeing the Moser too. I'm a huge fan and my favourite personal bike is a Leader CC with modern Fulcrum Racing Zero wheels. Beautiful but without the fuss of being a Colnago or the bling of Colimbus tubing. Keep up the good work and best wishes from the UK. Pete
Thanks Pete, I appreciate the compliment and thanks for the tip on the acetone, I will most certainly give that a try as I find normal paint stripper was too tedious and messy 🙏🏼👍🏼
i've one of those frames!
what's more expensive - the Benotto frame or some original Benotto cellotape?!?!
Good question, I know it’s easier to find a frame though 🤣
Now Buff, if you intended to have the frame blasted, did you really need to strip off those decals? And I have yet to find a paint reader that can handle bicycle tubes. These machines need a sample with a flat surface at least 30 mil sq. to get a good reading. However, if the shredded decals matched the paint, wouldn't they make a good substitute? Your reasoning on why and when to paint was excellent. Just completed restoring an ancient Peugeot tourer. Spent weeks trying to determine if I could keep the old paint. But two days in an oxalic acid bath revealed rust splotches under the paint and I knew I'd have to blast it and respray. Three cheers for alu oxide! And three for you, too.
I did Peter, the blasting isn’t aggressive enough to remove the decals which is why I’m able to protect the chrome by using masking tape 👍🏼 Thanks for the support, appreciated 🙏🏼
I suppose blasting varies according to the blaster's approach and the client's wishes. Been lucky with mine; the guy's a dentist. Never had to razor off a decal yet. You see the need to take greater care, however? Am restoring a '72 Dawes with a chrome fork and rear stays. Similar to the Benotto, some of the chrome is painted. My blaster suggested using stripper to avoid losing chrome from blasting and then repaint as needed. But it looked as if you planned to repaint the Benotto according to original specifications, so if you know exactly where the paint ends and the chrome begins it doesn't matter, yes?
@@peterharrer3261 yes, it would be easy for the blaster to get a little ham fisted on the frame and forcefully remove the decals but I prefer a more delicate approach on these frames. It would also take them longer and time is money. In this instance I’m keeping the bike as original as possible but needed to blast into a very small section of chrome on the seat stays that had some rust I was concerned about. But you’ll need to know these frames very well to spot where I’ve done that if I don’t point it out 😉
@@BuffsVintageBikes Blasting varies a lot in quality and price, doesn't it? My blaster works mostly with big trucks and specialty auto body repair, but he can handle anything and the cost is minimal compared to a commercial truck. And I appreciate the care you take in preserving the original character necessary with Italian racers. I'm more in the "resto-mod" category that includes personal specifications such as upgraded parts and different, often better paint.
Just a heads up that not all the comments that people post are visible to me. It seems to be a standing issue with TH-cam as other content providers are also complaining about it. Dino & World of Ameiso, I can see you guys posted something but I’m unable to view it so you’ll need to try again please.
Can I ask why you couldn’t have the decals blasted off with the paint?
You’ll notice he protected the chrome with masking tape. The silver oxide blasting wouldn’t penetrate the decals either. If he used a higher grit sand blast you’d remove the decals, but possibly damage the delicate frame in the process
Thanks Mark, 100% correct 👍🏼 The Alu oxide isn’t aggressive enough to blast through the decals.
Where is your Smoove cap.... we miss it
I’ll wear it next time again, just for you Leon, coz you’re spazcial 😝
If I recall 1200 and below carried their tubing badge on down tube just above the shifters. 3000, you’re right on the top tube. This model looks like it is a 87 made in 🇲🇽 Mexico. Rumor has it Benotto moved production to Mexico so he could be close to his Latina lover. The truth is probably a lot more boring than that story.
Thanks for the feedback. The Benotto FB group guessed it as an ‘83 model. Interesting story 😁👍🏼