In this video I show you how to make your own catch can / oil separator from scratch. Help keep the excess oil out of your intake and keep our car running better, longer by installing a catch can. This is an easy and innexpensive way to protect your cars internals from oil fouling. Watch the entire video as I show you a step by step walkthrough of how to build this catch can. Any questions, comment below.
good talk about catch can, but it gets really hot around the engine not sure if pvc is a good option, i'll stick with the 20dll one made from aluminum from amazon hehe , PQYRACING hsa a good product with a bronze filter
@@pfoxhound I already have. Go to my channel and watch any of my oil change videos I do on my cars. In each one I empty out the catch can and show the viewers how much comes out from each of my cars.
@@ModernDIYProjects maybe it's a good idea to make inlet much lower than outlet and make a body much longer and maybe add some buffles from bottom to top, so that the liquids won't jump on bumps, longer body to allow store more liquid between services, and metal mesh but not very fine...
@@pfoxhound This is the setup that I found works best for me. If you want to experiment with modifications please do, and let me know how they work out.
Great job. Mine is similar but I went with a larger area can to capture more gasses and droplets before hededing out mine is a 4" X 7" basically I atatched like you A cap on one end with the drain valve on the other end I put a clean out coupler with a threaded cap on the end and used pipe tape to seal the threads. I put a baffled plate on the bottom about 1.5" from the bottom to make a reservoir to catch the goo. My inlet and out lets are to stach 1" OD tubes. My choice of screen is very corce SS wool pulled slightly apart so I can easly see light through it. That fills the can from the top of the baffled reservior plate to just below the 1"OD outlet coupler. Like yours I have seperated the right and left side of the can with a wall like baffled plate and a 1" 90% inlet elbow forcing the gasses and droplets in and down the inside of the can. Using up more area of the SS wool filtering matierial to catch the particulats in side the can before going up and out the 1" out let coupler. This has great exit CCV, EGR flow and does an excellent job collecting particulets and liquids. This is in my 08 supperduty 6.4 diesel with 140K miles. Next mod is going to be O-ringed performance Heads and Studs, with Valve cover oilers bilt in. As no one believes I don't need head gaskets and oiling the Rockers etc has always been another isue with this truct. I probably still have head gaskets because I don't race her. She pulls well enough to get everything I want done.
Sigh, just when I am about to lose faith in all humanity I stumble across your amazing video tutorial. And my hope has been renewed. Amazing job sir. Well put together, both video and oil catch. Appreciate you letting us know how long they have lasted before.
There should not be any significant pressure in the can so you can put the top cap on as a friction fit and seal it with metal foil HVAC tape (real duct tape). Easy to cut the tape so you can remove the cap. Do not sand the inside of the cap.
Thanks great stuff I will make one for my car too thoroughly enjoyed watching this got my creative juices flowing now. Kind Regards Cape Town South Africa
A copper scourer works well to condense the oil vapour. Honestly I bought one on Amazon for $24 AUD with baffle and sintered bronze filter and a drain valve it's about six inches but well made from aluminium.
Wow, simple to do. Thanks for the show... Just one thing though, I can't seem to sand that fast. I just wonder how you do that without catching your fingers on fire... hehehe, just kiddin..
EXCELLENT idea and very economical solution!! Thank you so much for this. 👍👍 Nearly every Car Engine needs this! ........ Just one thing. PLEASE!!! This has been wrongly named for nearly the entire 60 years it's been in existence. P-C-V - Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve..... It's NOT P-V-C!!!! (Plastic Piping!) 😖 Please, people have been messing this up longer than calling a CAMARO a CAMERO!! (Even some nitwits who OWN the Car) You are definitely providing an invaluable service here. Don't lose some of the audience by misnaming it. 😊
I didn't misname it on purpose. I know exactly what it is called as I explained it at the beginning of the video. Unfortunately when you make videos unless you are reading from a script (which I don't) you are bound to misspeak some of the words you say, specially when you are saying two words that are so similar as I did in this video. I didn't catch my error until after the upload, so it stayed as it was.
Great simple design. I have the following ideas for improvement 1. Drill 2 holes on cap which holds the inner separator - establish the center of the separator and also the center of the cap... drill holes and fix the divider to the cap from the very beginning. 2. Glue cap to tube only after the separator is fixed to cap and inserted inside tube as one component. 3. Drill holes for inlet and outlet ports. 4. You could create a sieve type of cap on bottom and you wouldn't need anymore the cross linkage which notches into the main wall of the divider (you allready can grab that from a manual meat grinder). 5. The notched small divider should also be screw held to the main divider wall.... don't really trust the glue holding on for many many years when subjected to oil.... also.... I've rather avoid using glue which interacts with oil.... The end product looks really nice :) for the amount of money invested.
Thank you. Looks good !! The only change I'd make would be to not glue the top cap so you could remove it to change out the clogged up screen after time/miles go by. Because the top of the drain valve protrudes up into the bottom cap there will always be a 'pool' of oil at the bottom. But that is a good thing because the 'pool' will better attract the smaller oil droplets, and not clog up the screen as guickly. Thanks again!!
You could do that, but the way I saw it when I designed this was that there are two things at play. 1- This is so cheap to make that you can always make a new one after many years of use, or 2- You can always clean up the unit by taking it off the vehicle, and pouring gasoline inside and swishing around until it comes out clean. So any of these method or your idea will work.
Thanks for your great work and all the time you spend. I am intending to connect the catch can to the oil dip stick in order to add the filtered oil to the oil sump. As it is designed in many original OEM PCV oil separators (From BMW for instance). for your kind advise.
Yes, you can do this easily. Instead of putting a drain cock at the bottom like I did, all you have to do is replace that with a hose that you connect to your dipstick. It's that easy to change to the design you want.
Thank you my brother this was just what I needed for my 2012 Ford Mustang Convertible and it have work wonderful and safe me some serious money and I took pride on make in it for my self, thank thank you so much for this DIY for sure 👍
Could you please explain what is the filter material? It is a metallic or plastic, or something else? I mean what exactly you put into can as oil filter?
It's just a piece of old window screen material. Either fiberglass or metal will do but I prefer fiberglass. Also just to be clear, it is not really a filter. It's just meant to slow down the air/oil so it will fall out into solution so you can drain it out.
Great video, I think I'll make a similar one, although I think I'd prefer 3" PVC pipe & caps. Unsure yet what I'll use for that flat material inside, but will check out Home Depot. The only thing I'll change is the type of screw/drain you used. I would like a simple on/off valve that I can open and close, as I want to install some clear tubing to it, so I don't have to try and get a 'catch-all' or have to take the catch-can off, to drain it. Having a simple off/on drain (similar to a water shut-off) with some clear tubing going down and under the vehicle, I can put the end of the clear tubing into a regular empty oil can to collect whatever is in the catch-can. Then just coil up the clear drain tube that hangs under my vehicle, and use a zap strap to attach it to one of the truck parts that would work for that purpose! Thanks for the video, much appreciated!
All good ideas, I think you can make a really good one. For the flat stock Home Depot sells flat PVC material in the building department near the windows and moldings section. That is the same as what I used. Just get a section of flat PVC and you're set.
Thanks for the video, nice job. An idea to aid with installing and lining up the separator/baffle with the top screw hole would be to put a length of stiff wire down through the screw hole and into the baffle hole and then just slide up into place using the wire as a guide.
Excellent design. PVC holds up perfectly under the bonnet as long as you avoid the exhaust. However if and when I make mine I will be gluing/sealing the sides/edges of the long baffle to avoid engines gases taking the shortest path which would make the entire unit almost useless imho.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 chevy traverse. The air line comes off the the back of the enging into the intake. On the front left of the enging, the pcv line comes off the engine connect and onto the air filter hose, between the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor. The oil is collected into a cup like holder, but it is getting suck onto the throttle body when air is being suck in my the engine.So my question is, the oil caan would be connected on the front of the engine where the pcv comes off yes?
Yes. Wherever your PCV valve goes to, all you have to do is to intercept that line. Cut it if needed, or add new lines, and add this catch can in the middle. Between the PCV valve and the inlet location.
Watch these two videos where I demonstrate the junk that comes out as I clean out the catch can. This will give you a good idea of the results they get. th-cam.com/video/o6oK3HMpElY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/aQ4rBGaiJdM/w-d-xo.html
hi, I have a 2006 Infiniti M35 and has some oil go to the intake manifold from the pcv valve and from the breather hose to the air filter housing so my question is can I install 2 catch can ? because all the TH-cam videos about this matter only focuses on the pcv. thank you
Yes you can. The reason most videos focus on the PCV side is because technically that is the dirty side. On Most cars the other side for the intake will have clean air, but occasionally some cars will also have oil problems on the clean side. So yes, you can cover both sides if you need to on your vehicle. Same process just on the other side.
I'd like to make an observation: the positive pressure in the crankcase is caused by gases (not gasoline) getting past the rings into the crankcase. All that moving hardware stores the air but doesn't create a flow of air under pressure. That said, I'm making one for my GMC Sierra with 174,500 miles, pushed by a 6.0L OHV.
You mean disconnect the PCV hose and leave it loose? Depending on the vehicle you will get an oily mess all over your engine plus possibly get a vacuum leak and make your computer go crazy. You cannot plug the hose either or you will create too much pressure in your engine and start blowing engine seals.
@markosedlarik9553 prije 0 sekundi I have a question now. This is a 2AZ-FSE engine. What is the point of oil catch can when there is also a bigger outlet hose on the right side of the engine which is also connected to the intake manifold through the rubber tube?
What you don't understand is that this is a closed system for emissions reasons. You must let clean air into the system or the motor will suck air in from other places and ruin seals and so forth. The port you are talking about is the clean air intake. The port I pointed out is the dirty air outlet. The one you mention only lets air in, but not out, so it is of no consequence. All the oil is being let out where I placed the catch can. That is where you need to clean up the vented air.
Sooooo...first there was no catch can...now there is...was the hose (with two different connector sizes) direct to pcv valve from intake manifold? So....now oil will be caught in the can instead of smoking (on my bmw)? Thanks, fun, informative video..)
Anything you want as long as it is Heat Resistant and Solvent Resistant. Must hold up to heat and oil for a long time. Can use some Plastics, PVC, Metal, but NOT Wood.
Yes, you can use it in any climate or environment. Just be aware that in low temp, high humidity areas you will see a milky caramel looking deposit in the catch can when you go to drain it. That is perfectly normal. It's just water settling in the catch can and mixing with the oil. Does not affect the motor in any way.
Very doable. Just make sure you create a baffle or seperator to allow the oil to slow down and settle out. On the Con side, I just don't like the idea of glass under the hood of the car. The heat, the rattling around, it could shatter. You would have to create a very secure monting system to prevent that from happening. Let us know how it works out for you.
Yes, but it has to go on the breather tube regardless of if it is a PCV valve or not. Some vehicles use a different type of breather tube but the effect is the same. I suggest you contact the Chevy dealer and ask where is the PCV or Crank Case Breather located so you can place it on that.
The PVC has a thick wall so it will not collapse. I also use Fuel Line for the hoses so no problems there. I have been running these self made PVC catch cans on multiple vehicles for over 4 years now without any problems.
That is just a piece of PVC pipe cut to size. Look in the sprinkler section and buy the 8, 10, or 12 foot pipe, then cut to size. Some HD will have smaller 4 ft sections pre cut. If you cannot find PVC flat pipe for the size you want, you can also use ABS black pipe.
Formula racing cars are set up completely different and I don't think you need to worry about adding a catch can. You should have a mechanic who handles your car and that would be the person to speak with about performance.
Nope. Havent had any issues at all and I have these in all my cars. The first one I created I installed about 6 years ago and still using it with no problems.
@@JREACHER1954 If you are curious go watch my Ram Oil Change video and you'll see I have the catch can close to the exhaust manifold and it has been there for 6 years now. th-cam.com/video/aQ4rBGaiJdM/w-d-xo.html
Yes you can design it with a spout at the bottom to drip back into the valve covers. The draining process is not that bad as it is. I drain mine out every time I do an oil change. Very easy to do both at the same time. You would be surprised how much oil these things catch.
PVC adhesive is not like normal glue. PVC glue is special because it melts the two parts together. You will never get the two parts separated unless you break them. Heat does not matter to these parts if you are using thick walled PVC. I have one that I made over 5 years ago still in use with NO problems.
@@laurencerucker2585 They use clamps from the factory for ease of assembly on the factory floor. All these things are preassembled and dropped into the engine bay faster instead of fumbling for individual parts. I have had my units without clamps for years and had no issues because I use good quality fuel hoses that wont slip off.
@@ModernDIYProjects Very easy to put clamps onto hoses all the manufactured cans have them... They are only recommended for direct injection/turbo engines anyhow.
I friend, i found in my inlet canister trace of strange withish Slime,that tend to clog a tube, and a 1cm of water in the bottom of canister, what happening? The car dont eat oil! And i have do only 20-30km After installation of oil can catch🤔
There are many things that can be causing that. You may have a blown head gasket. There could be too much moisture or condensation in your area that you live. There could be a leak in a hose causing moisture to get in. Too many for me to make a definitive suggestion.
Hello, if it's not water in your oil from a blown head gasket there could be other reasons maybe. One is it might be sludge. Do you do a lot of short trips where you don't get your engine oil up to op. temps? Are you using regular cheaper engine oil? Try a high quality synthetic oil. If your car sits a lot or your in a high humid area you can get water in your oil which gets removed from getting the oil up to normal op. temps and higher quality oils have more detergents that help fight sludge formation. Get better oil, warm your car up more if driving short trips and change your oil a bit more often. I might have missed something but it's a good place to start... Have your engine compression tested to see how your head gasket is doing and take a look at your car's exhaust because if it's the head gasket it will throw a LOT of white smoke out of it and look at your engine oil to see if it's the right color and not a milky white... Good luck..
@@billthecat2410 hello friend, thanks for the time you spent answering me, I use castrol 5-40w magnatec, the head gasket is new, the golf mk3 gti 115psi has 142k kilometers, probably the effect is caused by the high heat of the base vapors who meet the extremely cold canester, and condense instantly, what I have found was just water, there was no trace of oil, I also tasted it with my mouth, with a finger, but now I have to disconnect the tube that goes to the canister and blow hard with your mouth, if not, that batter tends to plug the hole at the entrance to the canister, I will see if with a larger tube the effect is reduced
It should not because you are not altering anything, but if you are concerned, I suggest simply to remove this unit and attache the factory hose as it was before you go in for servicing. They will never know it was there.
What's worse: egr or pcv?? I actually purchased a cheap knock off provent 200 catch can, but it's so damn humongous that I'm gonna do exactly what you've done here. Would you consider having the bottom capped end threaded so you can periodically check the filter over time? Thanks for the very clear and concise mister, love your work. Subbed.
The PCV is definitely worse because the EGR will not introduce any oil into the intake like the PCV does. It just recirculates exhaust gases but no oil. The way I made the CatchCan was to be easy for everyone to do. If you can improve on my initial design to make it work better for you, then I say go for it. If it makes you more comfortable to be able to open it up, go for it, I see no harm in that. 👍 Just make sure the threads do not allow any air leaks or you will have too much air and the computer will act up.
@@ModernDIYProjects yeah that's true. Although, mine is currently vented completely to atmosphere so no issues for me with air leaks haha 😂. (don't worry I know big fines if caught)😂
Well done, nice design. How about putting the "screen material" on both sides of the tube, so that air vapor is filtered coming in & also going out. Also, this would allow the intake/output ports basically be the same. A nice, well done video.
It does not need to be replaced. You take the Catch Can off the car and rinse out with gasoline, then reinstall in car. The screen mesh can be cleaned with Gasoline.
I have already made plenty of those videos. Go check out the oil change videos I have on my channel for all 4 of my vehicles. You will see plenty of results since I always empty it when I do an oil change.
i could not help to notice the pcv valve was called pvc valve, also you are working with 2" pvc pipe not 2.5" , also you have no need to sand inside the fittings, by cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, or using a primer for pvc before the red hot blue will create a nice glue on, other wise i like to thank you for the great effort and great job, the fittings i would recommend to use brass barb adapters for durability, and yes it is more expensive but it will last for life,
In this video I show you how to make your own catch can / oil separator from scratch. Help keep the excess oil out of your intake and keep our car running better, longer by installing a catch can. This is an easy and innexpensive way to protect your cars internals from oil fouling. Watch the entire video as I show you a step by step walkthrough of how to build this catch can. Any questions, comment below.
good talk about catch can, but it gets really hot around the engine not sure if pvc is a good option, i'll stick with the 20dll one made from aluminum from amazon hehe , PQYRACING hsa a good product with a bronze filter
Can you please take a video of amount of oil that it catches?
@@pfoxhound I already have. Go to my channel and watch any of my oil change videos I do on my cars. In each one I empty out the catch can and show the viewers how much comes out from each of my cars.
@@ModernDIYProjects maybe it's a good idea to make inlet much lower than outlet and make a body much longer and maybe add some buffles from bottom to top, so that the liquids won't jump on bumps, longer body to allow store more liquid between services, and metal mesh but not very fine...
@@pfoxhound This is the setup that I found works best for me. If you want to experiment with modifications please do, and let me know how they work out.
I know the next time I need some sanding done I'm calling this guy.
Great job. Mine is similar but I went with a larger area can to capture more gasses and droplets before hededing out mine is a 4" X 7" basically I atatched like you A cap on one end with the drain valve on the other end I put a clean out coupler with a threaded cap on the end and used pipe tape to seal the threads. I put a baffled plate on the bottom about 1.5" from the bottom to make a reservoir to catch the goo. My inlet and out lets are to stach 1" OD tubes. My choice of screen is very corce SS wool pulled slightly apart so I can easly see light through it. That fills the can from the top of the baffled reservior plate to just below the 1"OD outlet coupler. Like yours I have seperated the right and left side of the can with a wall like baffled plate and a 1" 90% inlet elbow forcing the gasses and droplets in and down the inside of the can. Using up more area of the SS wool filtering matierial to catch the particulats in side the can before going up and out the 1" out let coupler. This has great exit CCV, EGR flow and does an excellent job collecting particulets and liquids. This is in my 08 supperduty 6.4 diesel with 140K miles. Next mod is going to be O-ringed performance Heads and Studs, with Valve cover oilers bilt in. As no one believes I don't need head gaskets and oiling the Rockers etc has always been another isue with this truct. I probably still have head gaskets because I don't race her. She pulls well enough to get everything I want done.
This is what TH-cam was made for, great work mate.
Wow, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Sigh, just when I am about to lose faith in all humanity I stumble across your amazing video tutorial. And my hope has been renewed. Amazing job sir. Well put together, both video and oil catch. Appreciate you letting us know how long they have lasted before.
Thank you my friend. Glad I could help!
Very nice work..I saw many who make Oil Catch Can..but you are the best..you are really good
Man... You're a hard worker. Respect.
This is great! Thanks so much for sharing, I love watching little nightly, crafty things like this.
Wow that is so good.
After watching your video I will now redo and change my catch can to make it perform better. Thank you for your video. Good job
Would be nice to include a way to take apart to clean? Or inspect the media in there?
There should not be any significant pressure in the can so you can put the top cap on as a friction fit and seal it with metal foil HVAC tape (real duct tape). Easy to cut the tape so you can remove the cap. Do not sand the inside of the cap.
I loved this simple tutorial. Great how-to for the car diy guy.
Thanks great stuff I will make one for my car too thoroughly enjoyed watching this got my creative juices flowing now.
Kind Regards
Cape Town
South Africa
Well done, enjoyed every minute of your tutorial.
A copper scourer works well to condense the oil vapour. Honestly I bought one on Amazon for $24 AUD with baffle and sintered bronze filter and a drain valve it's about six inches but well made from aluminium.
great information using readily available parts. Thank you So much
Wow, simple to do. Thanks for the show... Just one thing though, I can't seem to sand that fast. I just wonder how you do that without catching your fingers on fire... hehehe, just kiddin..
Awesome video. Love it! Betting your Italian.... bc you hand movements reminds me of the Sopranos. ;-)
Good job, very informative.
You ARE AMAZING this is a nice idea
This is perfect, wayyy less expensive than a store bought one for almost $300
Great idea and design. Try out pan scrubbing pads as a filter media.
Thank you for your time and instruction. Excellent working design.
Nice work. Great video.
Thanks for the great ideas. I'll be installing one on my 2011 F150 and my 69 F250.
EXCELLENT idea and very economical solution!! Thank you so much for this. 👍👍
Nearly every Car Engine needs this!
........ Just one thing. PLEASE!!! This has been wrongly named for nearly the entire 60 years it's been in existence.
P-C-V - Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve.....
It's NOT P-V-C!!!! (Plastic Piping!) 😖
Please, people have been messing this up longer than calling a CAMARO a CAMERO!! (Even some nitwits who OWN the Car)
You are definitely providing an invaluable service here. Don't lose some of the audience by misnaming it. 😊
I didn't misname it on purpose. I know exactly what it is called as I explained it at the beginning of the video. Unfortunately when you make videos unless you are reading from a script (which I don't) you are bound to misspeak some of the words you say, specially when you are saying two words that are so similar as I did in this video. I didn't catch my error until after the upload, so it stayed as it was.
THANKS . GREAT JOB. VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL TO MY TRUCK
Great simple design. I have the following ideas for improvement
1. Drill 2 holes on cap which holds the inner separator - establish the center of the separator and also the center of the cap... drill holes and fix the divider to the cap from the very beginning.
2. Glue cap to tube only after the separator is fixed to cap and inserted inside tube as one component.
3. Drill holes for inlet and outlet ports.
4. You could create a sieve type of cap on bottom and you wouldn't need anymore the cross linkage which notches into the main wall of the divider (you allready can grab that from a manual meat grinder).
5. The notched small divider should also be screw held to the main divider wall.... don't really trust the glue holding on for many many years when subjected to oil.... also.... I've rather avoid using glue which interacts with oil....
The end product looks really nice :) for the amount of money invested.
Thank you. Looks good !! The only change I'd make would be to not glue the top cap so you could remove it to change out the clogged up screen after time/miles go by. Because the top of the drain valve protrudes up into the bottom cap there will always be a 'pool' of oil at the bottom. But that is a good thing because the 'pool' will better attract the smaller oil droplets, and not clog up the screen as guickly. Thanks again!!
You could do that, but the way I saw it when I designed this was that there are two things at play. 1- This is so cheap to make that you can always make a new one after many years of use, or 2- You can always clean up the unit by taking it off the vehicle, and pouring gasoline inside and swishing around until it comes out clean. So any of these method or your idea will work.
Well done great video, well presented and very informative
Thank you kindly!
What did you place inside as a filter:?
Great Video
very interesting proyect. THANKS SO MUCHO SIR!!
Thanks for your great work and all the time you spend.
I am intending to connect the catch can to the oil dip stick in order to add the filtered oil to the oil sump.
As it is designed in many original OEM PCV oil separators (From BMW for instance). for your kind advise.
Yes, you can do this easily. Instead of putting a drain cock at the bottom like I did, all you have to do is replace that with a hose that you connect to your dipstick. It's that easy to change to the design you want.
Cool thanks,nothing beats hanky inginuity.
Thank you my brother this was just what I needed for my 2012 Ford Mustang Convertible and it have work wonderful and safe me some serious money and I took pride on make in it for my self, thank thank you so much for this DIY for sure 👍
You're very welcome.
also about to make one myself for a 14 mustang. how has yours held up over time?
This is so easy I'm going to make one for my car.
Well done... But u I think you could also reinforce steadiness of the separator by fixing it with 4 or so screws at the sides.
شكرا على توضيح عمل فلف بخار الزيت
The screen you put in is it on the airflow side coming in?
It can be either side, but I prefer the inlet side so it catches the oil faster and allows it to settle down in the container.
When drilling the end caps in the vice, put an offcut of pipe below it for support.
Thank you for that awesome instruction amd it's the.same as my highlander engine
Very Nice, Hope you do other stuff and post it on your channel. GOOD JOB!!!!!!!!
I do DIY stuff all the time. Subscribe to be notified when I do.
very good show
Could you please explain what is the filter material? It is a metallic or plastic, or something else? I mean what exactly you put into can as oil filter?
It's just a piece of old window screen material. Either fiberglass or metal will do but I prefer fiberglass. Also just to be clear, it is not really a filter. It's just meant to slow down the air/oil so it will fall out into solution so you can drain it out.
VERY WELL EXPLAINED. LOW COST
Very good 👍work
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video, I think I'll make a similar one, although I think I'd prefer 3" PVC pipe & caps. Unsure yet what I'll use for that flat material inside, but will check out Home Depot. The only thing I'll change is the type of screw/drain you used. I would like a simple on/off valve that I can open and close, as I want to install some clear tubing to it, so I don't have to try and get a 'catch-all' or have to take the catch-can off, to drain it. Having a simple off/on drain (similar to a water shut-off) with some clear tubing going down and under the vehicle, I can put the end of the clear tubing into a regular empty oil can to collect whatever is in the catch-can. Then just coil up the clear drain tube that hangs under my vehicle, and use a zap strap to attach it to one of the truck parts that would work for that purpose! Thanks for the video, much appreciated!
All good ideas, I think you can make a really good one. For the flat stock Home Depot sells flat PVC material in the building department near the windows and moldings section. That is the same as what I used. Just get a section of flat PVC and you're set.
YOU CAN USE STEEL WOOL
Great job thanks, the mesh bit did you put it in the outlet or the inlet?
You can do either one, but I prefer the inlet side.
Explained how it works and how to build. Thanks
Thanks for the video, nice job. An idea to aid with installing and lining up the separator/baffle with the top screw hole would be to put a length of stiff wire down through the screw hole and into the baffle hole and then just slide up into place using the wire as a guide.
Very good idea!
Good job
Excellent design. PVC holds up perfectly under the bonnet as long as you avoid the exhaust. However if and when I make mine I will be gluing/sealing the sides/edges of the long baffle to avoid engines gases taking the shortest path which would make the entire unit almost useless imho.
definitely stay away from exhaust even 10 inches above it collapsed
Greate idea thank you dr...... Shall I cover the middle sapareter with mesh ,is it ok know?😀😀
There's no need for that. The mesh is just there to slow down the air as it passes through.
@@ModernDIYProjects Thank you dr👍👍👍
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 chevy traverse. The air line comes off the the back of the enging into the intake. On the front left of the enging, the pcv line comes off the engine connect and onto the air filter hose, between the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor. The oil is collected into a cup like holder, but it is getting suck onto the throttle body when air is being suck in my the engine.So my question is, the oil caan would be connected on the front of the engine where the pcv comes off yes?
Yes. Wherever your PCV valve goes to, all you have to do is to intercept that line. Cut it if needed, or add new lines, and add this catch can in the middle. Between the PCV valve and the inlet location.
Could we get an update on the crud you caught with this setup? Nice work
Watch these two videos where I demonstrate the junk that comes out as I clean out the catch can. This will give you a good idea of the results they get. th-cam.com/video/o6oK3HMpElY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/aQ4rBGaiJdM/w-d-xo.html
hi, I have a 2006 Infiniti M35 and has some oil go to the intake manifold from the pcv valve and from the breather hose to the air filter housing so my question is can I install 2 catch can ? because all the TH-cam videos about this matter only focuses on the pcv. thank you
Yes you can. The reason most videos focus on the PCV side is because technically that is the dirty side. On Most cars the other side for the intake will have clean air, but occasionally some cars will also have oil problems on the clean side. So yes, you can cover both sides if you need to on your vehicle. Same process just on the other side.
@@ModernDIYProjects thanks very much
I'd like to make an observation: the positive pressure in the crankcase is caused by gases (not gasoline) getting past the rings into the crankcase. All that moving hardware stores the air but doesn't create a flow of air under pressure. That said, I'm making one for my GMC Sierra with 174,500 miles, pushed by a 6.0L OHV.
How can I make one for my 2004 mitsubishi endeavor limited
The same way that I show in the video
what would happen if I just unhooked the hose that returns to the intake?
You mean disconnect the PCV hose and leave it loose? Depending on the vehicle you will get an oily mess all over your engine plus possibly get a vacuum leak and make your computer go crazy. You cannot plug the hose either or you will create too much pressure in your engine and start blowing engine seals.
Just put a little filter on they work great
@markosedlarik9553
prije 0 sekundi
I have a question now. This is a 2AZ-FSE engine. What is the point of oil catch can when there is also a bigger outlet hose on the right side of the engine which is also connected to the intake manifold through the rubber tube?
What you don't understand is that this is a closed system for emissions reasons. You must let clean air into the system or the motor will suck air in from other places and ruin seals and so forth. The port you are talking about is the clean air intake. The port I pointed out is the dirty air outlet. The one you mention only lets air in, but not out, so it is of no consequence. All the oil is being let out where I placed the catch can. That is where you need to clean up the vented air.
Seeing your Toyota engine, I’ll do it to my Scion xB. Thanks.
Sooooo...first there was no catch can...now there is...was the hose (with two different connector sizes) direct to pcv valve from intake manifold? So....now oil will be caught in the can instead of smoking (on my bmw)? Thanks, fun, informative video..)
Yes, you got it all correct.
Has anyone noticed he tells you what PCV stands for but every time he goes to say it he says “PVC”. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system
I noticed that. But he does accurately call the plastic pipe PVC. (Polly vinyl chloride)
He says Passive crankcase ventilation.... 1:57
I don’t think he understands why PCV systems are used on cars….
Probably something to do with the PVC pipe he is using and not the PCV valve.
Enjoyed, yr recoursfullness, great, Bob from Belgium, keep safe brother! 🇧🇪😎🤜
Thank You Bob, you be safe also! 👍
This was a long video so I may have missed it but what did you use for your hoses?
I used fuel line hose.
Why would you want to sand or file the barbs off the hose fittings?
what can be use as as the separate material ?
Anything you want as long as it is Heat Resistant and Solvent Resistant. Must hold up to heat and oil for a long time. Can use some Plastics, PVC, Metal, but NOT Wood.
Hi just wandering if it's good here in northpole canada with -40? And thanks for your time!
Yes, you can use it in any climate or environment. Just be aware that in low temp, high humidity areas you will see a milky caramel looking deposit in the catch can when you go to drain it. That is perfectly normal. It's just water settling in the catch can and mixing with the oil. Does not affect the motor in any way.
@@ModernDIYProjects ok thanks buddy
You will have ice if any water is in there. Until it warms up enough to melt. But what problems will occur before that happens? ?
Looking to make one out of an 8oz mason jar. Vent holes in lid. What do you think? Pros/Cons?
Very doable. Just make sure you create a baffle or seperator to allow the oil to slow down and settle out. On the Con side, I just don't like the idea of glass under the hood of the car. The heat, the rattling around, it could shatter. You would have to create a very secure monting system to prevent that from happening. Let us know how it works out for you.
better idea.. Now it is your turn to make 1 hour video showing how you put a baffle and reinforced the lid!
How is it working sir?
I'm still using it, so it's working great. It's been installed now for 2 years with no problems.
Great video. Your channel should be called "Talking Hands Italian".
My 2005 Tahoe doesn't have a PCV as fsr as I can tell. Can I still install a catch can?
Yes, but it has to go on the breather tube regardless of if it is a PCV valve or not. Some vehicles use a different type of breather tube but the effect is the same. I suggest you contact the Chevy dealer and ask where is the PCV or Crank Case Breather located so you can place it on that.
Where did you get that PCV hose?
Home Depot
@@ModernDIYProjects Was that stuff good quality, I've heard bad quality hose can collapse under vacuum for crankcase pcv and breather systems.
The PVC has a thick wall so it will not collapse. I also use Fuel Line for the hoses so no problems there. I have been running these self made PVC catch cans on multiple vehicles for over 4 years now without any problems.
Sweeeeet ...... I’m a gonna do it to my 2016 Tucson . Great 👍 idea 💡 since this a problem I had on my old ‘04 Santa Fe. Thanks again MDIY 👍
Can i use it in diesel engine?
I don't think Diesel engines need this. This is only a problem for Gas engines.
PVC flat piece: What part# at home depot? I cannot find it at my Home Depot
That is just a piece of PVC pipe cut to size. Look in the sprinkler section and buy the 8, 10, or 12 foot pipe, then cut to size. Some HD will have smaller 4 ft sections pre cut. If you cannot find PVC flat pipe for the size you want, you can also use ABS black pipe.
I wanted to know which metal should I use for catch can to get better performance in engine of formula racing car.
Formula racing cars are set up completely different and I don't think you need to worry about adding a catch can. You should have a mechanic who handles your car and that would be the person to speak with about performance.
He's doing research and development for a Formula 1 race team by asking questions in the YT comment section. 😳
Is it too late to install on my 80,000+ miles used twin turbo charged car (vr30)
It's never too late. It's just like quitting smoking. Late is better than never. After all you have nothing to loose.
Nice setup. Are you having any issues with under temps and the pvc pipe?
Nope. Havent had any issues at all and I have these in all my cars. The first one I created I installed about 6 years ago and still using it with no problems.
@@ModernDIYProjects Thanks for the response. Should have been under 'hood' temps but you answered my question if you're not having issues.
@@JREACHER1954 If you are curious go watch my Ram Oil Change video and you'll see I have the catch can close to the exhaust manifold and it has been there for 6 years now. th-cam.com/video/aQ4rBGaiJdM/w-d-xo.html
Is it possible to design it in such a way that the oil just flows back inside the valve cover?
The maintenance is probably gonna be awful😅
Yes you can design it with a spout at the bottom to drip back into the valve covers. The draining process is not that bad as it is. I drain mine out every time I do an oil change. Very easy to do both at the same time. You would be surprised how much oil these things catch.
You did the right thing, use your mind, just let it goes on, don't tie to limits💪 😉✌️
Thanks
pvc pipe has too low working temp for underhood and hot engine blow by. Please post and let us see how it held up.
I have had this set up in all of my vehicles for several years without any problems whatsoever. PVC pipe holds up just fine.
thanks
@@ModernDIYProjects
Are those hands yours?
Engine is hot area, glue? Air tight ?
PVC adhesive is not like normal glue. PVC glue is special because it melts the two parts together. You will never get the two parts separated unless you break them. Heat does not matter to these parts if you are using thick walled PVC. I have one that I made over 5 years ago still in use with NO problems.
Um .. so what about clamps to hold the hoses on? pressure will blow them off and also without clamps air can leak...
You can use clamps if you wish but the PCV system does not have much pressure. It is a Passive system thus low pressure.
@@ModernDIYProjects SO why did the original hoses have clamps?
@@laurencerucker2585 They use clamps from the factory for ease of assembly on the factory floor. All these things are preassembled and dropped into the engine bay faster instead of fumbling for individual parts. I have had my units without clamps for years and had no issues because I use good quality fuel hoses that wont slip off.
@@ModernDIYProjects Very easy to put clamps onto hoses all the manufactured cans have them... They are only recommended for direct injection/turbo engines anyhow.
I friend, i found in my inlet canister trace of strange withish Slime,that tend to clog a tube, and a 1cm of water in the bottom of canister, what happening? The car dont eat oil! And i have do only 20-30km After installation of oil can catch🤔
There are many things that can be causing that. You may have a blown head gasket. There could be too much moisture or condensation in your area that you live. There could be a leak in a hose causing moisture to get in. Too many for me to make a definitive suggestion.
Hello, if it's not water in your oil from a blown head gasket there could be other reasons maybe. One is it might be sludge. Do you do a lot of short trips where you don't get your engine oil up to op. temps? Are you using regular cheaper engine oil? Try a high quality synthetic oil. If your car sits a lot or your in a high humid area you can get water in your oil which gets removed from getting the oil up to normal op. temps and higher quality oils have more detergents that help fight sludge formation. Get better oil, warm your car up more if driving short trips and change your oil a bit more often. I might have missed something but it's a good place to start... Have your engine compression tested to see how your head gasket is doing and take a look at your car's exhaust because if it's the head gasket it will throw a LOT of white smoke out of it and look at your engine oil to see if it's the right color and not a milky white... Good luck..
@@billthecat2410 hello friend, thanks for the time you spent answering me, I use castrol 5-40w magnatec, the head gasket is new, the golf mk3 gti 115psi has 142k kilometers, probably the effect is caused by the high heat of the base vapors who meet the extremely cold canester, and condense instantly, what I have found was just water, there was no trace of oil, I also tasted it with my mouth, with a finger, but now I have to disconnect the tube that goes to the canister and blow hard with your mouth, if not, that batter tends to plug the hole at the entrance to the canister, I will see if with a larger tube the effect is reduced
Could be gas in oil sludge breaking down the plastic the PVC pipe
Does this void the Hyundai warranty?
It should not because you are not altering anything, but if you are concerned, I suggest simply to remove this unit and attache the factory hose as it was before you go in for servicing. They will never know it was there.
What's worse: egr or pcv??
I actually purchased a cheap knock off provent 200 catch can, but it's so damn humongous that I'm gonna do exactly what you've done here. Would you consider having the bottom capped end threaded so you can periodically check the filter over time?
Thanks for the very clear and concise mister, love your work. Subbed.
The PCV is definitely worse because the EGR will not introduce any oil into the intake like the PCV does. It just recirculates exhaust gases but no oil. The way I made the CatchCan was to be easy for everyone to do. If you can improve on my initial design to make it work better for you, then I say go for it. If it makes you more comfortable to be able to open it up, go for it, I see no harm in that. 👍 Just make sure the threads do not allow any air leaks or you will have too much air and the computer will act up.
@@ModernDIYProjects yeah that's true. Although, mine is currently vented completely to atmosphere so no issues for me with air leaks haha 😂. (don't worry I know big fines if caught)😂
Just a tip, to snooth the corners and name marks, usa a razor insteado of sandpaper.
It's not necessary to sand the inside of the caps before placing them on the tube. Filing off the molded letters is a nice touch.
Well done, nice design. How about putting the "screen material" on both sides of the tube, so that air vapor is filtered coming in & also going out. Also, this would allow the intake/output ports basically be the same. A nice, well done video.
and reversible if connected wrong
I think, that you should mount the catch can below your PCV outlet to ensure correct flow of the oil. In your case, you built oil catch hose not can.
How you will replace the mesh when it become so dirty?
It does not need to be replaced. You take the Catch Can off the car and rinse out with gasoline, then reinstall in car. The screen mesh can be cleaned with Gasoline.
he will make another hour video, self glorifying, to show that now he will use Sea Foam to clean it!
@Pipo Cogote >Can you provide a link to your TH-cam video that is not "Self Glorifying"? Anything?
ASE Master Tech - Retired
Hi, Nice video!! Easy to make it :) I have a question, do you want to make a video of the the results? How many oil/ water has collected the jug?
I have already made plenty of those videos. Go check out the oil change videos I have on my channel for all 4 of my vehicles. You will see plenty of results since I always empty it when I do an oil change.
Nice! I'm going to check it out ;) greetings from the Netherlands
Brilliant
nice vid..
I subscribed
Truly a great idea for little money and effort.
That was so dam beautiful I wood like to buy one from you
Thank you, but I really don't have time to make them. I am so busy making videos every day that I hardly have time for anything any more.
@@ModernDIYProjects it hard with one hand
i could not help to notice the pcv valve was called pvc valve, also you are working with 2" pvc pipe not 2.5" , also you have no need to sand inside the fittings, by cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, or using a primer for pvc before the red hot blue will create a nice glue on, other wise i like to thank you for the great effort and great job, the fittings i would recommend to use brass barb adapters for durability, and yes it is more expensive but it will last for life,