Please Keep in Mind That These Suggested Methods for Raising a Shed Might Not Work on Every Project. Someone commented recently and pointed out that the last method used in the video could allow the jack to kick out if it is not supported properly. I would also suggest using a strap to connect to the top of the wood post used to jack up the shed to the top of the supporting ledger connected to the wall, to prevent the post from falling and injuring someone.
With the jack inside, you could attach a second ledger board on the opposite wall and then put joist hangars upside down on each ledger board and run a joist between them... then jack up the middle of the joist... so the load would be directly above the jack that way.
Thank you gregvancom. I used this idea to level a customers 10x12 shed. Everything else about the shed was terrific but it was built on a leveled patch of dirt in a sloping yard so one side was sitting on the detritus of a forest floor. After 15 yrs that side had sunk 6 to 8 inches. The owners emptied the shed for me and I raised one side at a time by lag screwing a 2x10, and raising it with bottle jacks so I could dig footings and install pier blocks on dirt with capacity to bear the load. Easier that I thought it would be. Thanks again
You're welcome and I would be surprised if more than 90% of the people watching these videos ever gave that much thought, but you did and your comment is sincerely appreciated.
Outstanding video. Was totally not expecting that last method, which turns out to be the one I will likely go with. Thanks for the excellent information.
Great video ! I have a 9x16 shed where rim joist are completely rotten on one front and side, do you think i can use 2nd method with jack screw on each stud with a 2x8 20' ?
Dude you always have the perfect video for me! Do you think the jack method could work for a 12' long wall? I just need to hold up the wall while I replace the concrete blocks below it.
I successfully used a harbor freight low profile 3 ton jack under the second joist in the floor for an 8x10 tuff shed (steel floor joists with LP coated floor). Two low profile jacks would have been perfect. But using only one jack, I managed to slowly. Key word slowly raise the lowest point 1 3/8 inches by rotating the jack around those second joists (4 lift points, but only needed to lift at 3 lift points). Think about it. Lifting at the corner only provides two vectors of support. Jacking up at the second joist offers three vectors of direct support. Lift at the “T”. Whatever you do, always check the floor and move up in 1/4 to 1/2 inch increments when rotating to each lift point. A long 6 foot level or larger works best at centered diagonals directions on the shed floor. improvements (another lesson in itself). Empty shed before. Have fun.
Great video. Great methods. Used the jack and jack stand method (found cinder blocks worked better for stability) to lift an 8x8 shed that had sunken about 3-4". Plate and floor were rotted.
Thanks for the video. I got a metal shed on the ground and it is twisted by soil moved as the the ground is a bit of sloppy. How can I make it solid from base, wall and roof.
thank you for the video, i want to raise my 10x8 shed by 10" with the jack system to replace the rotten wood floor with concrete. how would do this? when would i cut the bottom, and how? love the video, best i have searched so far. Great work.
I don't think I have a video that will provide you with step-by-step instructions, but will put your video suggestion on our list of videos to be made in the future
I lifted my shed up 2 ft but now it's not aligned to the floor. Beams are still attached and on 4 cribbing. Thinking of putting galvanized pipe to slowly push the walls to desired spot. What do you think?
Thanks. This confirmed my thinking on this issue I have with my shed. I have been looking at attaching a camper jack to the corner that I have that is dropped and see if I can get just that one corner to raise. But first I will of course be digging down to see how the floor framing is attached to the wall framing.
I like the first method that jacks it up from the bottom. I have that problem with my shed from the previous homeowner. I haven't looked to see what the foundation is made of yet. I'm considering digging holes on each corner and pouring concrete piers. Then attach a 2X8 to the piers and lag it to bottom of the shed to hold it in place..
I'll try to remember to post. Right now its too wet and soft back there to do anything, But I'll likely try to dig out a spot on each corner to fit a floor jack under and lift it up. Then place shims under it to level it. It depends on what I find when I jack it up.
That last option looks like a real good one. You could make that one even more solid by lagging the ledger you showed and doubling it up with another one that extends out under the side wall top plates and using a 4X4 post so it picks up on both ledgers.
How would you use this option to move a shed? Please explain. I'm picturing Pappa Bob's suggestion as a combination of option #3 and#4 in the video - maybe I'm misunderstanding.
If you look at the illustration of option #4, you will see that the ledger, as shown, cannot go past the side walls because of a 2x4 stud at the end of the ledger on the side walls. If you add another ledger right over the top of the first one, it can extend past those 2x4's on the side walls and extend outside. That does two things. It allows the building to be lifted from "outside" the structure and it also allows the lifting force to be applied to the side walls because the ledger is now ALSO under the top plate of the side walls. If you used this method and lifted BOTH ENDS of the shed, you could lay plywood of other boards down and use pipes as rollers below the structure to re-locate the shed. Obviously, slopes and obstacles would need to be considered to ensure safety. ,
Retired electrician. Moved lots of BIG switchgear using pipe rollers and a few bigger pieces like playhouses and sheds also. ;o) Remember what we learned back in another time when "practical" things were taught?? "Give me a place to stand------ "
I have a Tuff Shed which has a steel foundation system, including the joists. They market it as "can be placed on any level surface". Well the previous owners set it on very soft soil. The front has sunk so much that the ground is in contact with the plywood, causing mold. I'm going to rip out the flooring, lay a thick vapor barrier, and lift the sunken end. Would the steel foundation system be flexible enough to withstand the last board and jack method? Or would I be better of digging a hole at each of the (2) sunken corners, levering to level, and placing gravel and pier blocks for a footing on the sunken ends? Thank you! 10x10 shed fyi. It has power and is insulated so well worth saving.
I don't like the vapor barrier idea if it will trap water, but if it has some type of drainage, then it might work. Gravel and a drainage system might work, but I would check with manufacture for an approved method and let them know about your problem.
I have a large shed that sits on dirt and this is exactly what I need to consider to prevent compromising the flooring/base. How would you stabilize the shed inside the perimeter of the corners and under the shed (Ie in the middle, or maybe in 3rd on the across the underside)?
How would I lift a 24'x30' garage as I want to make the garage higher. It is currently only 8' I want to make it 12' tall also in some of your previous videos I've seen how to stop a pivot point so lift roof or entire garage? Thankyou
I have this idea for a while of moving an 10x12 shed by using 4 RV trailer jacks on each corner (1000 lbs+ capacity) instead of bottle jacks (method 2) ; the idea is to lift the shed little by little by 2 inches or so each corner and move the shed 10 feet back rotate it 90 degrees as it would be off the ground and on wheels Any concerns, comments? Any input will be greatly appreciated
I put a 3/4" piece of plywood under the shed (on the ground) and put a 2 ton floor-jack on it and raised it from under a solid point then shimmed the shed and blocked it as needed...it was very easy.
Great video! A lot of good ideas. I have one question, for the last method, using a jack and a vertical beam, would it be possible to place the jack on the outside of the shed as opposed to cutting a hole in the floor and placing the beam in the door frame ? Thanks in advance
Remember, these are only ideas and if you think you have something that will work, then give it a shot, just be careful. If you're looking for more information, then send me some type of drawing pictures of what you're planning on doing. I can't guarantee that I will be able to help, but will be glad to take a look at it.
I need to build up the mud sill on one side of my garage. There is a faulty grade and I need to raise the mud sill about 6 to 8 inches. I will build a form and pour some concrete with J bolts and connect the old concrete to the new footing. I have to figure a good way to support the wall as I cut the studs to make the form. think the last example will work ? any thought. It is about 22 feet and I can do 10 feet at a time and maybe use a 4x12 and attach some studs at an angel to hold and brace the wall so it doesn't sage or lower.
You might find what you're looking for at our website, but if you don't let me know or send me a picture of your project. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html
good video. thanks. What is the proper support, or surface material to put under the shed to prevent this sinking from happening in the future? Concrete blocks? Gravel? Railroad ties?
tonkmonster This is difficult question to answer, because there are different types of soils that produce a variety of different situations using different materials. Now I'm starting the salmon for politician. I've seen railroad ties rot and gravel and concrete sink into the ground. I think I would use gravel if I was working with a shed that was sitting on the ground surface and concrete if I wanted to raise the shed off of the ground.
if the wood has been sealed with say varnish or coated with line-x or rhino lining or similar coating, it would last longer and still be as strong for in ground use as opposed to just being pretreated with CAA or such which are more toxic and not as good as they are claimed to be let alone do not often penetrate as deep or as much as claimed
I have a tilting 10x10 tool shed with no floor (on concrete), but built with concrete tile roof and stucco wall on 4 sides. It is on a concrete slad (3 to 4" thick). I would like to lift the shed and correct the tilt and build a concrete foundation around it, so it will be higher than before. Any suggestion how to raise it properly? Thanks.
Wow, that would be quite a task. It can be done, but unfortunately I won't be able to provide you with a video for quite some time. I will post a link here when his is done.
So many small sheds sink because people don' t use a proper footing. IOW, they just plop them on the ground or maybe on top of a cement block. What happens is the ground freezes (more on the shady side) and spring rains wash things out. If you don't want to pour pillars (sono tubes) just dig a hole below the frost line, tamp some gravel in the bottom, and dry stack solid cement blocks so they are above grade. If you are off by more than an inch you can either shim on top or use more gravel on the bottom. As a double check for square / level, watch the door in it's opening. When the door is square all the way around you are good to go.
My shed was just sitting on dirt. So when it started to sink and lean, I blamed the poor footing, leaking gutter, ground slope, etc. etc. It was a great shed for 20 yrs. Then when a section of floor panel rotted.... I learned my kitchen and washer was draining under shed rather than being connected to city sewer like the rest of house. Now I am sure the shed was built to hide sewer leak so a higher price could be got for the place.
Not sure about your credential, but that last method you really do not want to do such without some support bracket at the base, essentially you want to make it a bracket to keep it from kicking out unexpectedly or so dangerously with just using a single board in-situ as you showed graphically.
Well I don't have any degrees in construction, but you do bring up a good point about the jack kicking out when it is not supported properly. This is why I suggest raising the shed in smaller increments, while placing soil, gravel or what ever underneath to prevent it from falling very far if the jack ever did kick out.
Even so in small block by block steps you want to have a triangular support brace at/near the base to give it full lateral support to keep it from kicking out and keep lifting a bit at a time placing the next block layer once there is room. This is why professional companies and their experienced workers do it a level or two at a time, but also because the jacks have their lifting height limit as well, no jack can raise higher than it was made to go in one go. But glad you put this helpful video out, just should have added in those supports to that one method for that piece of wood and does not have to be attached to the wall at the top, just at those braces near or at the base. If you reading this understand what I am implying for the buildings and your own safety. last thing you want is to damage your nice shed or larger building or injure yourself. Hope you find this useful.
You bring up a good point, but I don't think it would be a problem. However, I would also like to point out that the amount of lag screws used, along with their diameter and length, size of the wall framing studs, foundation and load supported by the wall studs could be a factor in determining whether or this method should be used.
Please Keep in Mind That These Suggested Methods for Raising a Shed Might Not Work on Every Project.
Someone commented recently and pointed out that the last method used in the video could allow the jack to kick out if it is not supported properly. I would also suggest using a strap to connect to the top of the wood post used to jack up the shed to the top of the supporting ledger connected to the wall, to prevent the post from falling and injuring someone.
I would use a floor jack with a piece of 2X10 under it to keep it from sinking in the ground. safer than a bottle jack.
With the jack inside, you could attach a second ledger board on the opposite wall and then put joist hangars upside down on each ledger board and run a joist between them... then jack up the middle of the joist... so the load would be directly above the jack that way.
Great video. I just used the bottle jack method to replace the floor of a gazebo.
Thank you gregvancom. I used this idea to level a customers 10x12 shed. Everything else about the shed was terrific but it was built on a leveled patch of dirt in a sloping yard so one side was sitting on the detritus of a forest floor. After 15 yrs that side had sunk 6 to 8 inches. The owners emptied the shed for me and I raised one side at a time by lag screwing a 2x10, and raising it with bottle jacks so I could dig footings and install pier blocks on dirt with capacity to bear the load. Easier that I thought it would be.
Thanks again
You're welcome and thanks for sharing your story.
Thanks for the excellent video. People underestimate the work it takes to make 3d schematics for this. Great job.
You're welcome and I would be surprised if more than 90% of the people watching these videos ever gave that much thought, but you did and your comment is sincerely appreciated.
My garage is 6” off plum in the back corner, flat roof.. 2 cars garage 100 years old.. your last example I think would work, thank you!
Is there a specific name for the method thats used starting at 4:56 where the jacks are on the outside of the structure?
I can't think of one, but if someone else does, let us know.
The best suggestion I have seen so far I recommend the first 1 for 4×6 feet shed
Love this. Great visuals (animations). Very good explanations of what to do and what to expect. Thanks!
You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. I always enjoy hearing nice things about my videos.
Outstanding video. Was totally not expecting that last method, which turns out to be the one I will likely go with. Thanks for the excellent information.
You're welcome and I'm glad I could help the Fonz:)
Great video ! I have a 9x16 shed where rim joist are completely rotten on one front and side, do you think i can use 2nd method with jack screw on each stud with a 2x8 20' ?
Dude you always have the perfect video for me! Do you think the jack method could work for a 12' long wall? I just need to hold up the wall while I replace the concrete blocks below it.
I successfully used a harbor freight low profile 3 ton jack under the second joist in the floor for an 8x10 tuff shed (steel floor joists with LP coated floor). Two low profile jacks would have been perfect. But using only one jack, I managed to slowly. Key word slowly raise the lowest point 1 3/8 inches by rotating the jack around those second joists (4 lift points, but only needed to lift at 3 lift points). Think about it. Lifting at the corner only provides two vectors of support. Jacking up at the second joist offers three vectors of direct support. Lift at the “T”. Whatever you do, always check the floor and move up in 1/4 to 1/2 inch increments when rotating to each lift point. A long 6 foot level or larger works best at centered diagonals directions on the shed floor. improvements (another lesson in itself). Empty shed before. Have fun.
Can method 2 with the jacks work with a exterior load bearing wall, timber frame on a slab. A section at a time to repair the bottom plate/sill?
Great video. Great methods. Used the jack and jack stand method (found cinder blocks worked better for stability) to lift an 8x8 shed that had sunken about 3-4". Plate and floor were rotted.
Glad it helped and thanks for the cinder block suggestion.
Good video. First two options will work for me. This is exactly what I have been lookig for. Thank you
Thanks for the video.
I got a metal shed on the ground and it is twisted by soil moved as the the ground is a bit of sloppy.
How can I make it solid from base, wall and roof.
Maybe add gravel under walls of shed or pour concrete foundation.
Ty for your work
thank you for the video, i want to raise my 10x8 shed by 10" with the jack system to replace the rotten wood floor with concrete. how would do this? when would i cut the bottom, and how? love the video, best i have searched so far. Great work.
I don't think I have a video that will provide you with step-by-step instructions, but will put your video suggestion on our list of videos to be made in the future
Thanks so much for sharing this information. I'm now prepared to attempt raising my small shed enough so that the doors fully open :)
Cheers!
You're welcome and definitely a good reason to raise the foundation or at least a section of the foundation.
@@gregvancom ... Update... The lever method worked perfectly for our 8x8 shed. A single lever using a 8' 2x4 sufficed. :)
cCould you please make and post a video on how to lift a 20 by 40 foot garage thats sunk 2 or 3 inches and needs a new footer
Finding so many of your videos helpful today. Thank you.
Glad you like them!
I lifted my shed up 2 ft but now it's not aligned to the floor. Beams are still attached and on 4 cribbing. Thinking of putting galvanized pipe to slowly push the walls to desired spot. What do you think?
Yes, as a lever. It's worth a try as long as you can do it safely. Think safety.
Thanks. This confirmed my thinking on this issue I have with my shed. I have been looking at attaching a camper jack to the corner that I have that is dropped and see if I can get just that one corner to raise. But first I will of course be digging down to see how the floor framing is attached to the wall framing.
Thanks for the great tips. You have great schematics too, thank you!!!
You are welcome and hope it helped.
I like the first method that jacks it up from the bottom. I have that problem with my shed from the previous homeowner. I haven't looked to see what the foundation is made of yet. I'm considering digging holes on each corner and pouring concrete piers. Then attach a 2X8 to the piers and lag it to bottom of the shed to hold it in place..
I would love to hear what method you used and how it worked.
I'll try to remember to post. Right now its too wet and soft back there to do anything, But I'll likely try to dig out a spot on each corner to fit a floor jack under and lift it up. Then place shims under it to level it. It depends on what I find when I jack it up.
That last option looks like a real good one. You could make that one even more solid by lagging the ledger you showed and doubling it up with another one that extends out under the side wall top plates and using a 4X4 post so it picks up on both ledgers.
+Pappa Bob I love your thinking and would imagine that you could also use something like that to move a small shed also.
How would you use this option to move a shed? Please explain. I'm picturing Pappa Bob's suggestion as a combination of option #3 and#4 in the video - maybe I'm misunderstanding.
If you look at the illustration of option #4, you will see that the ledger, as shown, cannot go past the side walls because of a 2x4 stud at the end of the ledger on the side walls. If you add another ledger right over the top of the first one, it can extend past those 2x4's on the side walls and extend outside. That does two things. It allows the building to be lifted from "outside" the structure and it also allows the lifting force to be applied to the side walls because the ledger is now ALSO under the top plate of the side walls. If you used this method and lifted BOTH ENDS of the shed, you could lay plywood of other boards down and use pipes as rollers below the structure to re-locate the shed. Obviously, slopes and obstacles would need to be considered to ensure safety. ,
I agree with Pappa Bob and it almost sounds like he's done this before.
Retired electrician. Moved lots of BIG switchgear using pipe rollers and a few bigger pieces like playhouses and sheds also. ;o) Remember what we learned back in another time when "practical" things were taught?? "Give me a place to stand------ "
I have a Tuff Shed which has a steel foundation system, including the joists. They market it as "can be placed on any level surface". Well the previous owners set it on very soft soil. The front has sunk so much that the ground is in contact with the plywood, causing mold. I'm going to rip out the flooring, lay a thick vapor barrier, and lift the sunken end. Would the steel foundation system be flexible enough to withstand the last board and jack method? Or would I be better of digging a hole at each of the (2) sunken corners, levering to level, and placing gravel and pier blocks for a footing on the sunken ends? Thank you! 10x10 shed fyi. It has power and is insulated so well worth saving.
I don't like the vapor barrier idea if it will trap water, but if it has some type of drainage, then it might work. Gravel and a drainage system might work, but I would check with manufacture for an approved method and let them know about your problem.
I have a large shed that sits on dirt and this is exactly what I need to consider to prevent compromising the flooring/base. How would you stabilize the shed inside the perimeter of the corners and under the shed (Ie in the middle, or maybe in 3rd on the across the underside)?
Maybe slide something under larger sheds. Email me a picture of your shed and you can get our email address at our website.
@@gregvancom Will do, thanks for replying.
Can you lift one side at a time? Or, does the whole structure have to elevate as one in order to replace sill?
Yes, that usually works better.
Great advice!
Very helpful & educational information. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
How would I lift a 24'x30' garage as I want to make the garage higher. It is currently only 8' I want to make it 12' tall also in some of your previous videos I've seen how to stop a pivot point so lift roof or entire garage? Thankyou
I don't have any videos showing how to lift a building yet.
I have this idea for a while of moving an 10x12 shed by using 4 RV trailer jacks on each corner (1000 lbs+ capacity) instead of bottle jacks (method 2) ; the idea is to lift the shed little by little by 2 inches or so each corner and move the shed 10 feet back rotate it 90 degrees as it would be off the ground and on wheels
Any concerns, comments? Any input will be greatly appreciated
I put a 3/4" piece of plywood under the shed (on the ground) and put a 2 ton floor-jack on it and raised it from under a solid point then shimmed the shed and blocked it as needed...it was very easy.
I like it.
Thank you for the great video. It will help me out a lot
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! Very helpful!👍👍👍
You're welcome!
Great video! A lot of good ideas. I have one question, for the last method, using a jack and a vertical beam, would it be possible to place the jack on the outside of the shed as opposed to cutting a hole in the floor and placing the beam in the door frame ? Thanks in advance
Remember, these are only ideas and if you think you have something that will work, then give it a shot, just be careful. If you're looking for more information, then send me some type of drawing pictures of what you're planning on doing. I can't guarantee that I will be able to help, but will be glad to take a look at it.
I need to build up the mud sill on one side of my garage. There is a faulty grade and I need to raise the mud sill about 6 to 8 inches. I will build a form and pour some concrete with J bolts and connect the old concrete to the new footing. I have to figure a good way to support the wall as I cut the studs to make the form. think the last example will work ? any thought. It is about 22 feet and I can do 10 feet at a time and maybe use a 4x12 and attach some studs at an angel to hold and brace the wall so it doesn't sage or lower.
You might find what you're looking for at our website, but if you don't let me know or send me a picture of your project. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html
Good video thanks!
good video. thanks. What is the proper support, or surface material to put under the shed to prevent this sinking from happening in the future? Concrete blocks? Gravel? Railroad ties?
tonkmonster This is difficult question to answer, because there are different types of soils that produce a variety of different situations using different materials. Now I'm starting the salmon for politician. I've seen railroad ties rot and gravel and concrete sink into the ground. I think I would use gravel if I was working with a shed that was sitting on the ground surface and concrete if I wanted to raise the shed off of the ground.
gregvancom thanks
You're welcome.
if the wood has been sealed with say varnish or coated with line-x or rhino lining or similar coating, it would last longer and still be as strong for in ground use as opposed to just being pretreated with CAA or such which are more toxic and not as good as they are claimed to be let alone do not often penetrate as deep or as much as claimed
I have a tilting 10x10 tool shed with no floor (on concrete), but built with concrete tile roof and stucco wall on 4 sides. It is on a concrete slad (3 to 4" thick). I would like to lift the shed and correct the tilt and build a concrete foundation around it, so it will be higher than before. Any suggestion how to raise it properly? Thanks.
Wow, that would be quite a task. It can be done, but unfortunately I won't be able to provide you with a video for quite some time. I will post a link here when his is done.
Thanks, that's fine. I got some advice from other posting at youtube. He lifted a garage with jacks and 2x10's and similar situation.
Great and I hope everything works out.
So many small sheds sink because people don' t use a proper footing. IOW, they just plop them on the ground or maybe on top of a cement block. What happens is the ground freezes (more on the shady side) and spring rains wash things out. If you don't want to pour pillars (sono tubes) just dig a hole below the frost line, tamp some gravel in the bottom, and dry stack solid cement blocks so they are above grade. If you are off by more than an inch you can either shim on top or use more gravel on the bottom. As a double check for square / level, watch the door in it's opening. When the door is square all the way around you are good to go.
Excellent points and great ideas.
My shed was just sitting on dirt. So when it started to sink and lean, I blamed the poor footing, leaking gutter, ground slope, etc. etc. It was a great shed for 20 yrs. Then when a section of floor panel rotted.... I learned my kitchen and washer was draining under shed rather than being connected to city sewer like the rest of house. Now I am sure the shed was built to hide sewer leak so a higher price could be got for the place.
Guess I should add the shed was attached to house and a huge deck. Pretty smart home flipper.
My garage is sagging a lot. After the sagged side is lifted, what goes in the base for the sides? Wood or concrete? If wood, what kind?
I've seen plenty of people use ground rated pressure-treated lumber, concrete and sometimes even gravel.
@@gregvancom Thanks much!!!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to know.
You bet and thanks for watching.
Not sure about your credential, but that last method you really do not want to do such without some support bracket at the base, essentially you want to make it a bracket to keep it from kicking out unexpectedly or so dangerously with just using a single board in-situ as you showed graphically.
Well I don't have any degrees in construction, but you do bring up a good point about the jack kicking out when it is not supported properly. This is why I suggest raising the shed in smaller increments, while placing soil, gravel or what ever underneath to prevent it from falling very far if the jack ever did kick out.
Even so in small block by block steps you want to have a triangular support brace at/near the base to give it full lateral support to keep it from kicking out and keep lifting a bit at a time placing the next block layer once there is room. This is why professional companies and their experienced workers do it a level or two at a time, but also because the jacks have their lifting height limit as well, no jack can raise higher than it was made to go in one go. But glad you put this helpful video out, just should have added in those supports to that one method for that piece of wood and does not have to be attached to the wall at the top, just at those braces near or at the base. If you reading this understand what I am implying for the buildings and your own safety. last thing you want is to damage your nice shed or larger building or injure yourself.
Hope you find this useful.
Wouldn't the large holes from lag bolts compromise the integrity of the 2x4's?
You bring up a good point, but I don't think it would be a problem. However, I would also like to point out that the amount of lag screws used, along with their diameter and length, size of the wall framing studs, foundation and load supported by the wall studs could be a factor in determining whether or this method should be used.
Real good.
MrMac5150 Thanks again for watching and as usual it's always nice to hear from you.
Make a fulcrum
Definitely another good idea.
K