I am just enough of a craftsman....to be dangerous. But I am knowledgeable enough, to appreciate your tenacity, creative thinking, and ingenuity on tackling this job in the first place, and solving numerous issues! I think if I were to make a suggestion, I’d clear a foot or so of sod along the outside walls down a couple inches, and put a few inches of gravel to decrease splash, and maybe prevent future moisture and potential rot along your new foundation. Bravo-Zulu, sir...a job very well done!
Absolutely brilliant problem solving! Thank you very much for making this video. I know I sound exactly like everyone else who has posted, but you really have shown many of us a path for fixing our saggy, rotted, and/or unlevel shed floors. Cheers to you, sir!
Thank you so much for the video. I’m a 60 year old widow but there’s nothing I won’t attempt. My husband built a 12 x 16 shed but it has a dirt floor. It stays too damp and everything molds in the building. I’m over it. I learned some very important facts- use pressure treated wood, joist hangers and plastic.
Wow! I’m working on replacing the gravel foundation of a 16 x 20‘ shed with concrete. I devised all these wild internal beam systems but your process with outside joists and multiple jacks is perfect - thank you for spending the time to share this information with all of us! Huge win finding your video today!
I love to hear things like this. I wish I would have spent more time making a better video. Never thought it would help anyone.. Thanks for watching the video.
Good job. Not that you need an “atta-boy” from me, but Ive been in construction and general contracting for 24 years and you did a great job in thinking through this processes, and even material selections under the circumstances. Its not a perfect solution to have wood in contact with the ground, but for a shed it will last you a long long time. Another option, if you want to spend the money, and you have the height, you can call a local garage overhead door company and they will typically have uninsulated doors in commons sizes (like 7’ tall x 8’ wide) for around $400 installed. Thats what we did with our old barn style shed and it looks good, seals up well, and is just generally easier to use pulling our lawn mowers etc. out. We have enough land to mow that we have both a tractor style mower and a zero turn.
Well thanks, Jay. If I get 17 years out of the floor ill be happy. I think that's how long the old one lasted before I ripped it out. Next time I replace the floor it might just be concert :)
Nice work. This is in my future, think I might use concreate blocks to set my new floor on to allow air flow under the floor so It doesn't rot as fast.
You just solve my biggest problem ! My shed floor is completely rotten and I can't use it to lift the thing. Now I'll be able to just lift the whole thing, rip the floor apart and work on the footing underneath. Thanks !
This is perfect. I was racking my brain and trying to find a video like this. I have a 12x12 shed I'm trying to convert into a sauna, but the plywood floor is sagging and i need to lift the whole thing higher off the ground. I need to figure out what to do underneath the stove instead of a plywood floor, but I'm hoping I'll have as much success as you did for the first phase.
Nice Job! I need to figure out how to do something similar on a arrow metal shed that has landscaping timbers as foundation with deck boards inside for the floor. The landscaping timbers are rotting away.
If you could slip two beams under the shed and separate the metal from the wood floor, you could lift it. But then you need a way to remove the beams after you lower it down. Good luck with it
Good Job.Throw some squirrels dirt pile 6 inches high Nuts and acorns some rotted wood and a shed that had not been cleaned out in 30 years. You got my mess with the rotted missing floor!
I really like your video. I have almost the same issue as what you had. I have an 8 x 12 shed. I noticed my shed was really sinking towards the back. Its was basically sitting on the ground. on top of that i had a ground hog and did some serious damage to the joists. Before looking at your video. Last weekend i decided to tackle this issue thinking i just needed to replace one plywood that was rotted i could almost put my foot through it. When i cutout that board wow, the damage was extensive. I started to remove all the plywoods, there was 3. Then i removed almost all the joists they were either chewed or rotten. Then i noticed that the exterior boards were rotten to almost half on each board. So i decided ok, i will start jacking up the each corner and put block under each corner. When i got to the 4th corner, i started noticing twisting and it seemed the shed moved a little. So i dropped the back to the ground on the last corner. I decided this is not a good sign and decided to do some research and came across your video. Do i need to use the out side boards and jack up the shed that way. As you did.
It will be more stable with the jacks out farther, and with them outside you can replace what's needed on the inside without the jacks getting in the way. Just take your time and jack up just each jack just a bit at a time. Jack it up too much on one side, and it will move. Good luck
WOW, thank you so much, I did not hear you say the size of your shed. Could you let me know what the size is? I really love the idea of keeping the shed off the ground and sliding the new floor into place!
It's a 12'x12' floor. I learned after it was done that I should have installed plastic under the frame to keep moisture from coming up. Thanks for watching.
Damn dude. Great job. Yes I would have used pressure treated wherever I could, but you know the risk and that's your decision. What I REALLY want to complement you on is the time and effort that went into the actual video creation. I edit video and I know the time it took to make this video. You did a great job! Maybe I'll do a video when I attempt to raise my chicken coop off the ground and add a floor. It doesn't currently have a floor and it stays too wet. I want to get it about 20 inches off the ground to get good air flow. Wish me luck! You gave me a lot of really useful ideas!
Thanks Jason, I think the video could have come out much better and my new videos sure show it. I wish I filmed myself working on it more. But it's hard on projects like this one, I just wanted to get it done. Good luck on yours and thanks again..
Good job!! I had a 12' x 16' shed built as a wood shop, and they didn't put enough support underneath so the floor sags between joists. I plan to take everything out when the winter goes away (am in Pacific N'West!!) and basically do what you did, but rebuild the 4" 4 4" beams and brace all the joists better, then install all new tongue and groove plywood. Just not sure yet how I am going to separate the shed from the current foundation, maybe just use a sawzall to cut the nails all around before jacking it.
Yes that would have been a great add on. But if you took a jack closed up, place it on the wall that you want to move out. Then screw a block of wood in front of the jack it then has something to push against. Of course none of the walls can be screwed to the floor if your doing this. Hope that helps you and others that run into that problem
Wow i can tell from the beginning you are expert bravo the only things i don't like is you put it in ground for me im going to do the same but using sinder blocks to keep it a way from rotten
How's it holding up 3 years on? The bottom of my shed also rotted and I learned my lesson, don't put timber in contact with soil. Pressure treated or not. Your timbers are large and will take a while to rot but that isn't the problem, as I discovered. Wood worm love wet, soft wood, and once they start they pread at a rate of knots. So even though rot may take years, if the worm take hold you may be in trouble. Keep an eye out for them and if you get time buy some 5 star treatment, put it in a spray bottle and give the ground timbers a good soaking.
So far I don't feel any change in the floor and I cant see any of the boards under it. Thanks for the tip on the worms, I could always cut holes in the floor to spray the wood. Thank you
thank you, thats exactly what i have to do today except it is a little worse and i have to cut all the studs down all around the shed, gonna be fun!! I was thinking thats how im gonna do it, and it looked like it worked good for ya. thanks.
Great video and great job on the shed rehab. I'm planning one now for an 8x10 and will be using some similar techniques. Should make for a decent video. Did you consider a plastic vapor barrier but decide against it for some reason?
Thanks, and I never even thought of it while rebuilding it. So I drilled a few holes in the floor to allow air flow after it was done. I would love a larger shed soon, so I'm not too worried about it. Thanks for watching and good luck on yours.
This is great information. I wish he had been more specific regarding the lags used. He was basically guessing at 5/8” x 5”. I have to doubt the lags were 5/8” diameter. They likely were a 5/8” head and even that is questionable. However a 5/8” head would be a 3/8” diameter and that is much more likely and I should think sufficient. I would love to hear from anyone who has used this technique as to exactly what materials you used for a 10’ x 12’ or larger but NOT SMALLER shed. Lumber size- did you go with 2 x 10’s or did you go smaller?ñDid you use 3/8” lags? Large/smaller? I thank you for taking time to answer?
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thank you very much as I have been concerned about that. Getting ready to raise my shed and build a floor. My shed is actually four walls and roof made of 2”x 6” x 12’s and has asphalt roofing material, so it is not light. I have 1/4” lags but will get 5/16” rather than 3/8” which is what I was going to get (but they are quite expensive). Thanks again!
What kind of bolts did you use? You said 5” then 5/8”…I’m guessing you have to drill a pilot hole before installing the bolts in? With a washer? I ask because this is a really outside the box way to Jack up a shed and I would like to do this to a 16x12 one…but I wanna make sure I do it correctly
I drilled from inside going out so I knew where the bolts on the outside needed to be, so yes they all got pre drilled. 5/8 bolts and 5" long. Be safe and take your time.
I see you have a smaller shed. I have an 8 by 16 shed. Do you think that would be too heavy to jack up? Also, am I correct that the floor frame sits under the shed on top of the 4x4's. And the floor frame is made with 2x6's, is that correct. My shed is made with 2x4's. This looks like a major job, but it would be expensive to have this done. My shed's floor rotten, because it was put on the ground leves as is yours, but water settles in the corner of the yard and rotted out the floor and shed has sunk down on the back and fron into the muddy yard. I would like to put them on concrete blocks, so I assume I would have to put them butted up against, each other end to end for the entire perimeter of the shed. Sorry if my questions seem dumb.
I think you could use 2x10s and it should be fine if the 2x10s are bolted into the wall real good. I do have mine resting on 4x4s and I should have placed a vapor barrier down before putting down the frame. But I never thought about it at the time. If you use blocks to build the shed off the ground that will allow air to get under the shed and help keep it dry. I would use 2x6 for the floor and add blocks like in the link below. www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplasticinehouse.com%2Fbuilding-shed-base-with-deck-blocks%2F&psig=AOvVaw3dBUvLfJITqugm6v9RMHRo&ust=1618236732868000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCMjbsd-v9u8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAO
Great video to raise the shed. I can share one unfortunate note that the earth has a lot of moisture and it will rot your floor within 2 years. Even pressure treated wood would not survive. Either raise and ventilate the sub floor or use concrete.
Thanks Mark. I learned that I should have added a vapor barrier before putting the frame down. The shed lasted 15 years and I just rebuilt it the way it was so It should last long enough for me. Its going on 2 years now and still solid. If I drilled holes in the front and rear in each section and put a mesh over the holes do you think that would help? I hope others read this so they don't make the same mistake.
Its not my best video for sure. I sure didnt think this one would get this many views lol. I think its 12x12 and Its just as good as the day I did it. Wish I would have put plastic down like others pointed out. Thanks for watching and taking the time to write a comment :)
They make blades just for Hardieboard. I have them on a 7 1/4" circular saw and a 12" miter saw. They cut quick and create a lot of dust. Breathing the Hardieboard dust (silica) can give you lung cancer just like asbestos did. You should wear an N95 mask when cutting and use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filer attached to your saw if possible. I can attach my Shopvac to my miter saw to my miter saw but not my circular saw. Don't use a broom/dust pan to clean up the dust, vacuum it up.
I just purchased a new shed from Tuff Shed, through Home Depot. They built it on-site, placing it directly on the ground. I was wondering if that could lead to floor rot, as I’m in a hot, humid climate. I’m a senior, so I can’t do the work myself, but was wondering if I should hire someone to lift it, and by how much? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks.
Mine lasted 20 years before I had to do anything. The frame on yours should be metal and the floor I'm sure is wood. The wood plywood would rot first. But if you have it lifted, that will help with moisture build up under it. I would talk to the store, I thought they built all of them on at least pavers.
I watched two videos on jacking up buildings. Then TH-cam started recommending building jacking videos constantly. And I always click on them. TH-cam has cracked my code. I want to see those buildings getting jacked.
This was one of my first video, I had no clue how to film and I had no mic at the time. But yes, behind my house is a busy road and it sucks. Thanks for watching :)
Learn from mistakes, and that was a big one. I did add ventilation after people told me I should have added a vapor barrier. The ventilation should help by letting the moisture out and help dry the ground, it's better than doing nothing. I would love a larger shed in the back, so if the floor rots again I'll take it apart and make something larger in the back :)
But you didn't have a floor to start with. My floor is screwed to the bottom frame before the walls were built on top. I thought you'd show how to replace something like that. Otherwise informative video, and partially apply to my shed floor. Also, why not pour a slab? the area seems accessible. Finally, without ventilation and without PT, this might root in a few years.
I did have a floor, sorry I didn't show how it got removed. Most of it I could rip out by hand, it was so bad. To remove the walls from the floor, I used an oscillating tool to cut all the nails that held the walls to the floor. As for the slab, it was way to much at the time. The shed lasted 20 years or so before it rotted. If it does rot again, I might pour concert at that time. A few years ago I cut a few holes in the floor to help it vent underneath, I used a scope to inspect the wood and it still looks great. When I rebuilt the shed I added gutters to the garage and shed so it is very dry around the shed now, before it was a lake lol. Thanks for comments and watching the video.
Why would you leave it down in the dirt where ground moisture can cause more trouble, later. Jack it up and leave it up there. Put a proper floor or at least some kind of masonry lower wall. Water and wood don't mix. It's a lot of work to jack it up.
Thanks for the comment, it's good for others to see things like this. I didn't want it any higher than what it's at now, and the shed lasted over 30 years last time. I should have put down a vapor barrier, but I didn't know any better. I did coat the plywood underneath, and I fixed the standing water issue. The rain was pooling around the shed for years and that's all fixed now so the ground stay nice and dry. I have a few holes in the floor that I use to check the 2x6s and it's stay dry so far. If and when it rots again and if I'm still around, I will end up pouring concrete.
Thanks for showing how you raised it up! My silly ass would have been digging under mine too try and lift it. The boards on the side are an awesome idea! I have to lift mine and replace the rotted bottom frame and floor like you did. How many days did this take you to do that? Thanks again
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk good idea. Mine might take a little longer (my shed looks a bit larger) so I was thinking of using landscape bricks once I get it up in the air.
This one thing was worth the price of admission! I had all sorts of harebrained schemes (digging, a CH47 Chinook, or a maybe antigravity rays) to lift my shed, but your solution is elegant. You probably saved me two weekends - your check is in the mail! Kidding aside, thank you for taking the time and effort to post -- Cheers!
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk I use bottle jacks all the time. Regardless, I should have complimented you on your repair. Nice job. I need to do the same thing except my "shed" is roughly 40 by 15.
Our shed has a plywood floor and LOTS of rats under the floor we even have some holes on the plywood. I'm not sure if the floor can be removed and make a frame for a cement floor?! I'm a single mom and my mom a single mom.. not sure if we can do it lol
I was going to pour concrete in mine but it was twice the price of the wood. Ask around maybe you can find a few people to help you. GL PS not sure how you don't have more views on your videos ;)
Sure wish I did, it could been way better. At the time, I didn't think anyone would ever watch my videos. And I had no clue how to make a video, lol. Im still learning :)
Repairing a shed doesn't cost as much nowadays as it does to buy one or having payments on a new one. New ones are double to triple the original price from 2019.
I am just enough of a craftsman....to be dangerous. But I am knowledgeable enough, to appreciate your tenacity, creative thinking, and ingenuity on tackling this job in the first place, and solving numerous issues! I think if I were to make a suggestion, I’d clear a foot or so of sod along the outside walls down a couple inches, and put a few inches of gravel to decrease splash, and maybe prevent future moisture and potential rot along your new foundation. Bravo-Zulu, sir...a job very well done!
Your video is the ONLY ONE that addressed my conundrum. I appreciate the hell out of you Sir
Absolutely brilliant problem solving! Thank you very much for making this video. I know I sound exactly like everyone else who has posted, but you really have shown many of us a path for fixing our saggy, rotted, and/or unlevel shed floors. Cheers to you, sir!
It's always nice to hear the video helped in some way. If I knew this video would have been so helpful I would have done a better job of filming, lol
Thank you, I was thinking there was no way I could replace the flooring in my shed, but this looks doable!
I wish the video was a bit better, at the time I didn't think anyone would watch my it.
Thank you so much for the video. I’m a 60 year old widow but there’s nothing I won’t attempt. My husband built a 12 x 16 shed but it has a dirt floor. It stays too damp and everything molds in the building. I’m over it. I learned some very important facts- use pressure treated wood, joist hangers and plastic.
Yes the plastic would be great, wish I knew that before :)
Wow! I’m working on replacing the gravel foundation of a 16 x 20‘ shed with concrete. I devised all these wild internal beam systems but your process with outside joists and multiple jacks is perfect - thank you for spending the time to share this information with all of us! Huge win finding your video today!
I love to hear things like this. I wish I would have spent more time making a better video. Never thought it would help anyone.. Thanks for watching the video.
Good job. Not that you need an “atta-boy” from me, but Ive been in construction and general contracting for 24 years and you did a great job in thinking through this processes, and even material selections under the circumstances. Its not a perfect solution to have wood in contact with the ground, but for a shed it will last you a long long time.
Another option, if you want to spend the money, and you have the height, you can call a local garage overhead door company and they will typically have uninsulated doors in commons sizes (like 7’ tall x 8’ wide) for around $400 installed. Thats what we did with our old barn style shed and it looks good, seals up well, and is just generally easier to use pulling our lawn mowers etc. out. We have enough land to mow that we have both a tractor style mower and a zero turn.
Well thanks, Jay. If I get 17 years out of the floor ill be happy. I think that's how long the old one lasted before I ripped it out. Next time I replace the floor it might just be concert :)
Nice work. This is in my future, think I might use concreate blocks to set my new floor on to allow air flow under the floor so It doesn't rot as fast.
You just solve my biggest problem ! My shed floor is completely rotten and I can't use it to lift the thing. Now I'll be able to just lift the whole thing, rip the floor apart and work on the footing underneath. Thanks !
Was your shed floor sitting in dirt or up off the ground?
Awesome makes a lot more sense then jacking up from the inside like I planned on doing lol 👍
Thanks for this.
I saved my shed with your method.
That's awesome to hear
Thanks for the ideas, I was trying to figure out how to Jack the building up.
This is perfect. I was racking my brain and trying to find a video like this. I have a 12x12 shed I'm trying to convert into a sauna, but the plywood floor is sagging and i need to lift the whole thing higher off the ground. I need to figure out what to do underneath the stove instead of a plywood floor, but I'm hoping I'll have as much success as you did for the first phase.
I also update this info in the description. I'm glad you picked up on that.
You should put a gutter on the house side of your shed to keep water out of that area.
Your video is very helpful. My biggest concern was how to get the shed up. You did a great job! Thanks for your video. We can do this !!
Glad it was helpful!
Man. That shed is all jacked-up!
And it's good thing!
Thanks! I did this to my shed, this helped me big time!
I'm glad it helped.
I love to see a creative mind at work. Nice job!!! Me, I would have bought a new shed
Chiming in late here but here in texas you try not to have wood touching the ground. Mainly termites and dry rot.
Thanks northtexasrangers. The shed lasted 15+ years so after it rots again I might move it back and lift it off the ground a few inches..
Great ideas well done and thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Nice Job! I need to figure out how to do something similar on a arrow metal shed that has landscaping timbers as foundation with deck boards inside for the floor.
The landscaping timbers are rotting away.
If you could slip two beams under the shed and separate the metal from the wood floor, you could lift it. But then you need a way to remove the beams after you lower it down. Good luck with it
Good Job.Throw some squirrels dirt pile 6 inches high Nuts and acorns some rotted wood and a shed that had not been cleaned out in 30 years. You got my mess with the rotted missing floor!
Very creative and great ideas. You gave some ideas but my shed is metal. Rotten plywood floor. Thanks for the video!
I love how you did that, smart thinking
Very nice. I hope you put gutters asap so you don’t get house foundation issues.
I did, and that made a big difference, its so dry around the shed now. Thanks for watching
I really like your video. I have almost the same issue as what you had. I have an 8 x 12 shed. I noticed my shed was really sinking towards the back. Its was basically sitting on the ground. on top of that i had a ground hog and did some serious damage to the joists. Before looking at your video. Last weekend i decided to tackle this issue thinking i just needed to replace one plywood that was rotted i could almost put my foot through it. When i cutout that board wow, the damage was extensive. I started to remove all the plywoods, there was 3. Then i removed almost all the joists they were either chewed or rotten. Then i noticed that the exterior boards were rotten to almost half on each board. So i decided ok, i will start jacking up the each corner and put block under each corner. When i got to the 4th corner, i started noticing twisting and it seemed the shed moved a little. So i dropped the back to the ground on the last corner. I decided this is not a good sign and decided to do some research and came across your video. Do i need to use the out side boards and jack up the shed that way. As you did.
It will be more stable with the jacks out farther, and with them outside you can replace what's needed on the inside without the jacks getting in the way. Just take your time and jack up just each jack just a bit at a time. Jack it up too much on one side, and it will move. Good luck
Looks great! I have a 16x16 that I'm going to be doing a similar thing to
So many people said I should have put plastic down before I put the floor in. But mine is still doing great. Good luck and have fun
Thank you for your creativity on a solution.I was wondering if it is possible to do this and now I know.♥️
Thanks for watching. I'm filming skills are getting a bit better now lol
It’s hard to stop a Trane! Thanks for the jacking idea.
Great job on this repair. I myself would've poured a concrete slab and lowered back down then bolted to slab. Personal preference.
Thanks. If I had the extra money at the time, I would have loved to do that.
WOW, thank you so much, I did not hear you say the size of your shed. Could you let me know what the size is? I really love the idea of keeping the shed off the ground and sliding the new floor into place!
It's a 12'x12' floor. I learned after it was done that I should have installed plastic under the frame to keep moisture from coming up. Thanks for watching.
Damn dude. Great job. Yes I would have used pressure treated wherever I could, but you know the risk and that's your decision. What I REALLY want to complement you on is the time and effort that went into the actual video creation. I edit video and I know the time it took to make this video. You did a great job! Maybe I'll do a video when I attempt to raise my chicken coop off the ground and add a floor. It doesn't currently have a floor and it stays too wet. I want to get it about 20 inches off the ground to get good air flow. Wish me luck! You gave me a lot of really useful ideas!
Thanks Jason, I think the video could have come out much better and my new videos sure show it. I wish I filmed myself working on it more. But it's hard on projects like this one, I just wanted to get it done. Good luck on yours and thanks again..
Excellent. Thanks for sharing. From the UK.
Thank you so very much for sharing your skills and project! I am hoping to tackle my shed re-flooring soon.
Thanks and hope its going well. If you are building on the ground don't forget the plastic it should help down the road.
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thank you for that tip Rick! I forgot about ground plastic.
I did as well and if you read some of the comments, people gave me a hard time about that lol.
Good job!! I had a 12' x 16' shed built as a wood shop, and they didn't put enough support underneath so the floor sags between joists. I plan to take everything out when the winter goes away (am in Pacific N'West!!) and basically do what you did, but rebuild the 4" 4 4" beams and brace all the joists better, then install all new tongue and groove plywood. Just not sure yet how I am going to separate the shed from the current foundation, maybe just use a sawzall to cut the nails all around before jacking it.
Sound like that would work
Wish you would of shown how you used the block of wood to turn the building. I need to do what you just did.
Yes that would have been a great add on. But if you took a jack closed up, place it on the wall that you want to move out. Then screw a block of wood in front of the jack it then has something to push against. Of course none of the walls can be screwed to the floor if your doing this. Hope that helps you and others that run into that problem
Nice job. Having access all the way around certainly helped. Thanks for posting it up.
Great Job Minnesota! We have the same 4 season weather up here in Montreal.I am going to do this this weekend. Thanks Rick! Cheers from Montreal !
Wow i can tell from the beginning you are expert bravo the only things i don't like is you put it in ground for me im going to do the same but using sinder blocks to keep it a way from rotten
Rick's Tech Talk i know it but you did great job no gup everthyng put together perfectly
Not sure if you remember but were those really 5/8” screws for the exterior you put into the 2x10? Comparing 3/8” and 5/8” to do a similar task
Knowing me, they were definitely 5/8 lol. Sorry, I took so long to reply, but if you need a quicker reply next time check out my Facebook page.
Wow! Excellent job. Thanks for shooting such a nice video.
How's it holding up 3 years on? The bottom of my shed also rotted and I learned my lesson, don't put timber in contact with soil. Pressure treated or not.
Your timbers are large and will take a while to rot but that isn't the problem, as I discovered. Wood worm love wet, soft wood, and once they start they pread at a rate of knots. So even though rot may take years, if the worm take hold you may be in trouble. Keep an eye out for them and if you get time buy some 5 star treatment, put it in a spray bottle and give the ground timbers a good soaking.
So far I don't feel any change in the floor and I cant see any of the boards under it. Thanks for the tip on the worms, I could always cut holes in the floor to spray the wood. Thank you
Laying plastic on the ground will help with the moisture.
thank you, thats exactly what i have to do today except it is a little worse and i have to cut all the studs down all around the shed, gonna be fun!! I was thinking thats how im gonna do it, and it looked like it worked good for ya. thanks.
Wow how did you squeeze inbetween the house and she dto side that.. must of been hard to hammer!
You did one hell of a job on this.
Great video and great job on the shed rehab. I'm planning one now for an 8x10 and will be using some similar techniques. Should make for a decent video. Did you consider a plastic vapor barrier but decide against it for some reason?
Thanks, and I never even thought of it while rebuilding it. So I drilled a few holes in the floor to allow air flow after it was done. I would love a larger shed soon, so I'm not too worried about it. Thanks for watching and good luck on yours.
Love what you've done here..
Thanks for the idea
This is great information. I wish he had been more specific regarding the lags used. He was basically guessing at 5/8” x 5”.
I have to doubt the lags were 5/8” diameter. They likely were a 5/8” head and even that is questionable. However a 5/8” head would be a 3/8” diameter and that is much more likely and I should think sufficient.
I would love to hear from anyone who has used this technique as to exactly what materials you used for a 10’ x 12’ or larger but NOT SMALLER shed.
Lumber size- did you go with 2 x 10’s or did you go smaller?ñDid you use 3/8” lags? Large/smaller?
I thank you for taking time to answer?
Thanks for your post. I still have the lag bolts so I check, you are right I did not use 5/8 they were 5/16 and 6" long.
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thank you very much as I have been concerned about that. Getting ready to raise my shed and build a floor. My shed is actually four walls and roof made of 2”x 6” x 12’s and has asphalt roofing material, so it is not light.
I have 1/4” lags but will get 5/16” rather than 3/8” which is what I was going to get (but they are quite expensive).
Thanks again!
Thanks.... I was trying to figure how to raise my shed to repair my rotted floor. I give it a try
Smile Sir.....job well done 👍 Forget about it!
Thanks 👍
What kind of bolts did you use? You said 5” then 5/8”…I’m guessing you have to drill a pilot hole before installing the bolts in? With a washer?
I ask because this is a really outside the box way to Jack up a shed and I would like to do this to a 16x12 one…but I wanna make sure I do it correctly
I drilled from inside going out so I knew where the bolts on the outside needed to be, so yes they all got pre drilled. 5/8 bolts and 5" long. Be safe and take your time.
I see you have a smaller shed. I have an 8 by 16 shed. Do you think that would be too heavy to jack up? Also, am I correct that the floor frame sits under the shed on top of the 4x4's. And the floor frame is made with 2x6's, is that correct. My shed is made with 2x4's. This looks like a major job, but it would be expensive to have this done. My shed's floor rotten, because it was put on the ground leves as is yours, but water settles in the corner of the yard and rotted out the floor and shed has sunk down on the back and fron into the muddy yard. I would like to put them on concrete blocks, so I assume I would have to put them butted up against, each other end to end for the entire perimeter of the shed. Sorry if my questions seem dumb.
I think you could use 2x10s and it should be fine if the 2x10s are bolted into the wall real good. I do have mine resting on 4x4s and I should have placed a vapor barrier down before putting down the frame. But I never thought about it at the time. If you use blocks to build the shed off the ground that will allow air to get under the shed and help keep it dry. I would use 2x6 for the floor and add blocks like in the link below.
www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplasticinehouse.com%2Fbuilding-shed-base-with-deck-blocks%2F&psig=AOvVaw3dBUvLfJITqugm6v9RMHRo&ust=1618236732868000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCMjbsd-v9u8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAO
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk Thanks for the great tips.
Great video to raise the shed. I can share one unfortunate note that the earth has a lot of moisture and it will rot your floor within 2 years. Even pressure treated wood would not survive. Either raise and ventilate the sub floor or use concrete.
Thanks Mark. I learned that I should have added a vapor barrier before putting the frame down. The shed lasted 15 years and I just rebuilt it the way it was so It should last long enough for me. Its going on 2 years now and still solid. If I drilled holes in the front and rear in each section and put a mesh over the holes do you think that would help?
I hope others read this so they don't make the same mistake.
No Gravel under 4x4 for drainage or Vapor Barrier underneath.
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk it's like when they pour Basement foundations vapor Barrier then gravel Rocks fighting water is not easy.
Dang, I was expecting a bootleg video. This came out nice though and you did an awesome job! What size is your shed and how has it lasted so far?
Its not my best video for sure. I sure didnt think this one would get this many views lol. I think its 12x12 and Its just as good as the day I did it. Wish I would have put plastic down like others pointed out. Thanks for watching and taking the time to write a comment :)
They make blades just for Hardieboard. I have them on a 7 1/4" circular saw and a 12" miter saw. They cut quick and create a lot of dust. Breathing the Hardieboard dust (silica) can give you lung cancer just like asbestos did. You should wear an N95 mask when cutting and use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filer attached to your saw if possible. I can attach my Shopvac to my miter saw to my miter saw but not my circular saw. Don't use a broom/dust pan to clean up the dust, vacuum it up.
Does the size of board you screwed into the shed matter? Can I use 2x4 to jack it up?
you did a very nice job on that shed!
Very nice job!
Thank you very much!
I just purchased a new shed from Tuff Shed, through Home Depot. They built it on-site, placing it directly on the ground. I was wondering if that could lead to floor rot, as I’m in a hot, humid climate. I’m a senior, so I can’t do the work myself, but was wondering if I should hire someone to lift it, and by how much? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks.
Mine lasted 20 years before I had to do anything. The frame on yours should be metal and the floor I'm sure is wood. The wood plywood would rot first. But if you have it lifted, that will help with moisture build up under it. I would talk to the store, I thought they built all of them on at least pavers.
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk : Thanks for the info!
I watched two videos on jacking up buildings. Then TH-cam started recommending building jacking videos constantly. And I always click on them. TH-cam has cracked my code. I want to see those buildings getting jacked.
Nice job and you must live next to the highway never peace from the car noise.
This was one of my first video, I had no clue how to film and I had no mic at the time. But yes, behind my house is a busy road and it sucks. Thanks for watching :)
Great job.
Thanks for sharing
Damnit brother!!! Awesome..
Awsome job what size shed?
Brilliant! You saved me a lot of headache 🙌
Why wouldn't you put vapor barear down first to prevent rotting again?
Learn from mistakes, and that was a big one. I did add ventilation after people told me I should have added a vapor barrier. The ventilation should help by letting the moisture out and help dry the ground, it's better than doing nothing. I would love a larger shed in the back, so if the floor rots again I'll take it apart and make something larger in the back :)
But you didn't have a floor to start with. My floor is screwed to the bottom frame before the walls were built on top. I thought you'd show how to replace something like that.
Otherwise informative video, and partially apply to my shed floor.
Also, why not pour a slab? the area seems accessible.
Finally, without ventilation and without PT, this might root in a few years.
I did have a floor, sorry I didn't show how it got removed. Most of it I could rip out by hand, it was so bad. To remove the walls from the floor, I used an oscillating tool to cut all the nails that held the walls to the floor. As for the slab, it was way to much at the time. The shed lasted 20 years or so before it rotted. If it does rot again, I might pour concert at that time. A few years ago I cut a few holes in the floor to help it vent underneath, I used a scope to inspect the wood and it still looks great. When I rebuilt the shed I added gutters to the garage and shed so it is very dry around the shed now, before it was a lake lol. Thanks for comments and watching the video.
I need to do similar on a smaller shed. How did you lower it?
The same way going up. If you have 4 people to work the jacks, that would be the best plan. If it's just you go down an inch or 2 per corner.
Hell ya. You did a good job.
Wonderful job...
Thank you
Looks very nice!
Why didn't you use 4 x 4 piers. With 2 x 6
I didn't want it any higher off the ground. When I move it to the back, ill have it on a slab if it's still in good shape.
what did you stain underneath with is it tongue & grooved?
I used a waterproof stain that I had left over. The plywood was just treated lumber.
Thanks ever so much for this video.
Well done . Great job
Why would you leave it down in the dirt where ground moisture can cause more trouble, later. Jack it up and leave it up there. Put a proper floor or at least some kind of masonry lower wall. Water and wood don't mix. It's a lot of work to jack it up.
Thanks for the comment, it's good for others to see things like this. I didn't want it any higher than what it's at now, and the shed lasted over 30 years last time. I should have put down a vapor barrier, but I didn't know any better. I did coat the plywood underneath, and I fixed the standing water issue. The rain was pooling around the shed for years and that's all fixed now so the ground stay nice and dry. I have a few holes in the floor that I use to check the 2x6s and it's stay dry so far.
If and when it rots again and if I'm still around, I will end up pouring concrete.
Thanks for showing how you raised it up! My silly ass would have been digging under mine too try and lift it. The boards on the side are an awesome idea! I have to lift mine and replace the rotted bottom frame and floor like you did. How many days did this take you to do that? Thanks again
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk good idea. Mine might take a little longer (my shed looks a bit larger) so I was thinking of using landscape bricks once I get it up in the air.
This one thing was worth the price of admission! I had all sorts of harebrained schemes (digging, a CH47 Chinook, or a maybe antigravity rays) to lift my shed, but your solution is elegant. You probably saved me two weekends - your check is in the mail! Kidding aside, thank you for taking the time and effort to post -- Cheers!
“Jacked up” . . . Good job to take that on by yourself!
lol thank you so much and thanks for watching
Murphy was getting ready to tear your ass up calling him dumb dumb
LOL thanks for watching
man that looks nice. i forgot to put vapor barrier and i didnt stain my floors smh
I didn't do vapor barrier, so don't feel bad :) I thought about drilling 1/8" holes in the floor to help vent it out.
Can't come down slow with a bottle jack? They must make them differently where you get them.
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk I use bottle jacks all the time.
Regardless, I should have complimented you on your repair.
Nice job.
I need to do the same thing except my "shed" is roughly 40 by 15.
Looks good.
Thank you
@Ricks_Tech_Talk I have to do something similar to mine.
Our shed has a plywood floor and LOTS of rats under the floor we even have some holes on the plywood. I'm not sure if the floor can be removed and make a frame for a cement floor?! I'm a single mom and my mom a single mom.. not sure if we can do it lol
I was going to pour concrete in mine but it was twice the price of the wood. Ask around maybe you can find a few people to help you. GL
PS not sure how you don't have more views on your videos ;)
Put a moisture barrier n the ground if you’re gonna pour a concrete floor.
Great Video 👍🏼
Good job, well done.
Why you not working for NASA.
What size is the shed?
I think it was 12x12
Great job!
Great job ..
Great job. Just woulda been great seeing more of what you did, rather than explaining what you did.
Sure wish I did, it could been way better. At the time, I didn't think anyone would ever watch my videos. And I had no clue how to make a video, lol. Im still learning :)
how much did it cost you ?
I think it was around $600 for the 2x6s, 4x4s, 8 sheets of ply, paint and some hard board siding
Sorry I didn't count in the jacks I bought and the 2x10s I used to lift the shed
Repairing a shed doesn't cost as much nowadays as it does to buy one or having payments on a new one. New ones are double to triple the original price from 2019.
nice bro 🤘🏻
Thanks 🔥
Bravo 👏 🎉
That's sweet!
Thank you very helpful - nice job
Genius.
5 bucks says that 6x6 is going to rot
@@Ricks_Tech_Talk It certainly will be a lot more sturdy until then at least! We'll just have to cross that road when we get to it
Putting the wood, directly on the ground again ? Did you not learn anything in the first place ?....even treated wood...will still rott eventually....