forceps... or clampy thingies... your choice! those deformations are from pinching the wire axle while forming the end. Sometimes the die is squeezed too tight? It is pretty inconsistent so the manufacturing tolerances must be pretty loose and as the die ages, well... you get the idea. Your issue with reassembly is why I no longer use screws...
I still remember Kong, the little VW Golf that won KOTM at 3D and it had a terrible looking washer + _round head_ screw assembly. To my knowledge you use a flat top countersink screw head design. So there's no issues there because of the screws. One thing that I do notice regularly from you is you'll venture into the building process a ways and track testing for natural speed comes later. Testing speed first might save you effort and narrow the search faster. "Slag," I caught what you were pitching right away. Superfluous material, we called it "flash" in the world of painting small fantasy game figures where bits of pot metal escaped the mould along the edges. What a conundrum and dilemma here--polish the axles past a certain point and the graphite won't stick 🤔 I see the logic but can't advise where that upper limit can be. You were pretty taken with the Aston-Martin from the first, if only because it looked cool to you and now, more convinced that's the one to enter. 👍 Always enjoy seeing your process unfold here, Bill! You say now that cars have been reassembled you get wheel rub, it wasn't there before? A misaligned base during refit? I don't believe it's the screws themselves and you'll never need washers for these.
You may be drilling too deep into the post, reducing the height of the body. I did that on a few cars I worked on and I added a tiny washer on top of the post. Some plastic base cars also get damaged from drilling so I’ve had to use a washer under my button head screws to get a better grip on the base. I’ve tried a few different methods for filing and polishing my axles, depending on how they look. I have some hobby files that I use for burrs and “slag” as you call it. I usually use my Dremel motor tool with a few different polishing bits, sometimes use the metal polish paste in the Dremel polishing set but I’ve also used Nonox metal polish and another brand I don’t recall the name. I started out using an Optivisor with the extra magnification to see the axles but still couldn’t magnify them enough to really see. Since I have a digital microscope for doing my electronics repairs, I tried using that and it can really zoom in close to the axle.. the detail is incredible.. but it cost about $250. I’m not sure that polishing them to a perfect shine really makes much difference. With and without graphite, some cars didn’t change much, some became much faster and others became slower.. which I was really puzzled by. I eventually got some of the slower cars back up to speed by polishing with other stuff and adding graphite but using a few tiny drops of isopropyl to drag it down into the wheel. It dries out quickly and seems to spread the graphite nicely. I don’t know if that gives you any ideas of what to try but it shows that we’re both doing essentially the same thing. I did try spinning an axle held in the Dremel tool chuck but it would spin too fast, even at the lowest setting on my multi speed tool, and either bent the axle or the chuck flattened the hub end, so I had to file and straighten them.
forceps... or clampy thingies... your choice! those deformations are from pinching the wire axle while forming the end. Sometimes the die is squeezed too tight? It is pretty inconsistent so the manufacturing tolerances must be pretty loose and as the die ages, well... you get the idea. Your issue with reassembly is why I no longer use screws...
Ahh, what do you use if not screws? Thanks.
@ your not so favorite E6000
@@StoopidFishRacing Ahhhh!
I still remember Kong, the little VW Golf that won KOTM at 3D and it had a terrible looking washer + _round head_ screw assembly. To my knowledge you use a flat top countersink screw head design. So there's no issues there because of the screws.
One thing that I do notice regularly from you is you'll venture into the building process a ways and track testing for natural speed comes later. Testing speed first might save you effort and narrow the search faster.
"Slag," I caught what you were pitching right away. Superfluous material, we called it "flash" in the world of painting small fantasy game figures where bits of pot metal escaped the mould along the edges.
What a conundrum and dilemma here--polish the axles past a certain point and the graphite won't stick 🤔 I see the logic but can't advise where that upper limit can be.
You were pretty taken with the Aston-Martin from the first, if only because it looked cool to you and now, more convinced that's the one to enter. 👍
Always enjoy seeing your process unfold here, Bill! You say now that cars have been reassembled you get wheel rub, it wasn't there before? A misaligned base during refit? I don't believe it's the screws themselves and you'll never need washers for these.
Wow, Thank you.
@@sstdiecastracing2372 Billy covered much of what I wanted to get across, and far better than I did, honestly.
@@Chris_Hood I learn from all. Thanks.
Interesting info thanks good luck on the Big O
Thank you. Lots of questions, some good points. Make sure to read the comments for things to answer them. Some good ideas down there.
You may be drilling too deep into the post, reducing the height of the body. I did that on a few cars I worked on and I added a tiny washer on top of the post. Some plastic base cars also get damaged from drilling so I’ve had to use a washer under my button head screws to get a better grip on the base.
I’ve tried a few different methods for filing and polishing my axles, depending on how they look. I have some hobby files that I use for burrs and “slag” as you call it. I usually use my Dremel motor tool with a few different polishing bits, sometimes use the metal polish paste in the Dremel polishing set but I’ve also used Nonox metal polish and another brand I don’t recall the name. I started out using an Optivisor with the extra magnification to see the axles but still couldn’t magnify them enough to really see. Since I have a digital microscope for doing my electronics repairs, I tried using that and it can really zoom in close to the axle.. the detail is incredible.. but it cost about $250. I’m not sure that polishing them to a perfect shine really makes much difference. With and without graphite, some cars didn’t change much, some became much faster and others became slower.. which I was really puzzled by. I eventually got some of the slower cars back up to speed by polishing with other stuff and adding graphite but using a few tiny drops of isopropyl to drag it down into the wheel. It dries out quickly and seems to spread the graphite nicely.
I don’t know if that gives you any ideas of what to try but it shows that we’re both doing essentially the same thing.
I did try spinning an axle held in the Dremel tool chuck but it would spin too fast, even at the lowest setting on my multi speed tool, and either bent the axle or the chuck flattened the hub end, so I had to file and straighten them.
What he said.
"Burrs," *that's* the word I wanted!
Good write up, Billy
Thanks a lot. Always something to learn.