Really enjoying watching this build, shame you didn’t make a milling machine first it would definitely of saved you a lot of work and time. All up inspirational and I will start on mine this week.
Yes, it could have saved me a lot of work, but ironically to make a milling machine you still need a lathe, also I hope to expand my lathe to make milling works. Thank you for commenting, good luck with your build, and if you have anything you want to discuss feel free to ask. Cheers.
I think this is the best DIY lathe build I have seen so far, keep it up. In older lathe designs the adjustable sliding surfaces used bronze inserts. I wonder why you are going for steel on steel instead?
Hey, thank you. Bronze unfortunately was not an option, the alternative was (and still could be) brass. Eventually I opted for steel because the reduced stick-slip coefficient of friction. It's not definitive though.
ok it will be a good job, correct me if I'm wrong: but no one asks him how much he spent? I am sure that if you bought a used one it was better, it saved you, and in all its functions, without counting the tools already included.
My compliments. I would also like to make one, but I have the problem of finding the various iron plates, because those who want to buy them need a VAT number that I don't have. Question: I don't know how much I spent to do it all but it wasn't convenient to get an original one? Also used, which are at a good price.
Sorry Idk how to help you about the VAT ID problem. About your question, yes it could have been easier to buy a lathe but I wouldn't have learnt much in that case. Maybe it would have costed less but I would have spent more to adapt it to my needs. I will address these questions among others in a next video. Thanks for your kind comment. Good luck with your lathe.
But how do you make sure the Z height doesn't change? The sliding surface of your carriage is just a piece of metal that you glued in there. There is no way that it is flat. Am I missing something here?
Sorry for the late reply. The Z height should not change as long as the whole surface of the carriage is in contact with the flat surface. However I will soon finish the carriage and will perform some tests ...it will be the moment of truth :)
I don't agree with you, ok to build one but not spending a lot, but in my opinion he didn't spend little, it's better to get an original one, even used, there are some deals on the market. But this will have the various feeds? Also for threading. :-/
hello, when will be the dovetail cutting video be available cus i am building a lathe myself right now and need to figure out how to cut the dovetail for the slides without a milling machine. thx
Because I have many things to follow I can't say in advance when, but I hope you'll be notified by YT when the new video will bo up so be sure to subscribe and click the bell icon otherwise you'll miss the notifications. Cheers and good luck with your lathe.
@@AccidentalScience ok thank you. i used sbr25 linear rails and for the compound slide i used just precision rods. I just finished the compound slide today and figured out that it was a total flop. lol but anyway i will redo the compound slide someday. can't wait for your next video
@@drfistus94 My first idea was to use precision rods too, but eventually I scapped the idea bc that would have ended up quite cumbersome, also I've calculated the amplitude of the flexion (bending) under load and it resulted unaccettable for small diameter rods. Also, using linear rails was a good alternative provided to have a flat surface to lay down the rails. I don't like linear rails for this kind of machine bc they run on ball bearings and when a part that have an irregular shape is processed this would cause a pulsed load that would put quite a stress on the rail that would be subjet to pitting by the balls. To clearify, say you want to round up a square, when the tool hit the part to remove the excess a pulse of load is generated when each corner is touched by the tool, this pulse will be obviously transferred down to the bearings that in turn will hit the rail. If the part is turned at 300 rpm the balls will hit the rail at a frequency of 20 pulses per second. Pulsed load is worst than continuous load as each pulse is surrounded by oscillations due to the ringing effect. However this is a relative issue as it depends on the kind of rail and the kind of bearings used: roller bearings are best suited for this kind of application, but even with ball bearings just simply let the maximum load be well below the peak the given rail-bearing couple is able to widthstand and it will works fine.
Not sure yet. I alredy got a request of this kind but I soon discovered that behind the user there was a Chinese manufacturer. I am happy to share my plans and knowledge with other hobbyists/hackers/makers, but I feel a little bit ouf of comfort when a manufacturer is lurking plans for free, if you get what I mean. First I will finish and test the machine, then when I'll be sure that's good enough I will decide what to do with the plans. Happy holidays, Claudio.
@@AccidentalScience I completely understand! I've got an old early 30's Sheldon, but it's not very rigid. Watching you build yours has really made me want to build my own. I also like that yours uses actual bearings not babbit bearings. I look forward to the rest of the build and seeing how it comes out. If there is anything I can do to help, please let me know. Have a very merry Christmas!
I spitted them with the force of a machine gun of course! :) ...joke aside, yes by pressure, using my home made press (you can find a couple of videos in my channel).
Following this lathe build-series up to here, my opinion is "you seem to enjoy to complicate everything and every issue, instead of just building a dam lathe". That is unfortunately a phenomena which increases with age and wisdom, and I personally also suffer from it - but still: JUST BUILD THE LATHE and stop fussing. I will watch the rest of the series, as I'm interested to see how it turns out.
If you chose cold rolled and brazed it you would have a very large amount of warp and twist. It is possible to normalize the brazed assembly and then lap it. But it's a lot of work. What you did is pretty much as good as it can get with the materials you have chosen to use.
Thank you for the feedback. Honestly I didn't verified what brazing would do, I knew that brazing usually do not cause distortions and warps because the whole material is heated uniformly. Cold rolled steel on one hand is dimensionally more accurate, but on the other hand actually could have a certain degree of latent tensions due to compression so not sure about the possible results. Also, the cold rolled mild steel that I purchased is "relaxed" ...not sure what exactly that should mean except that they charge more money for it :/ Anyway, because I shared this doubt (the risk of warps) I preferred the "cold" solution eventually.
@@AccidentalScience You have an advantage if it is relaxed. That means it has been stress relieved in a heating process. Valuable in what you are making.
Absolutely Incredible work! Your precision and attention to detail is awesome.
Thank you sir. I'm happy to see you here I love your channel.
Very interesting alternative approach to an age old diy problem, well done and a very good choice for background music.
Thank you.
@@AccidentalScience no , thank you for taking the time to post such interesting video's.
this lathe is looking to be one of the best diy lathes on youtube, keep it up!
Hallo, habe selten so einen sympathischen, freundlichen Werker gesehen, der Bau und die Details sind spitze! Hoffe das es bald weitergeht.
Vielen Dank, Ernst.
This is a very interesting approach! Very ingenious. Currently building my own lathe, although a lot smaller. All the best, keep it up!
Really enjoying watching this build, shame you didn’t make a milling machine first it would definitely of saved you a lot of work and time. All up inspirational and I will start on mine this week.
Yes, it could have saved me a lot of work, but ironically to make a milling machine you still need a lathe, also I hope to expand my lathe to make milling works. Thank you for commenting, good luck with your build, and if you have anything you want to discuss feel free to ask. Cheers.
This mini lather is perfect
THIS IS A FACTORY PRODUCTION MAN .VERY GOOD JOB .GOOD LUK
Thanks bud. Have nice time.
Very nice work, it looks so beautiful , slides are so smooth on this puppy.
Thank you mate. I'm following the progress on your jet engine model, really interesting.
@@AccidentalScience Very nice, thanks for the support.
I think this is the best DIY lathe build I have seen so far, keep it up. In older lathe designs the adjustable sliding surfaces used bronze inserts. I wonder why you are going for steel on steel instead?
Hey, thank you. Bronze unfortunately was not an option, the alternative was (and still could be) brass. Eventually I opted for steel because the reduced stick-slip coefficient of friction. It's not definitive though.
ok it will be a good job, correct me if I'm wrong: but no one asks him how much he spent? I am sure that if you bought a used one it was better, it saved you, and in all its functions, without counting the tools already included.
very smooth craft mr bean👍
Man it’s turning really awesome!
Thank you bud. Merry Christmas.
I see what you did there ;)
"Turning"
My compliments. I would also like to make one, but I have the problem of finding the various iron plates, because those who want to buy them need a VAT number that I don't have.
Question: I don't know how much I spent to do it all but it wasn't convenient to get an original one? Also used, which are at a good price.
Sorry Idk how to help you about the VAT ID problem. About your question, yes it could have been easier to buy a lathe but I wouldn't have learnt much in that case. Maybe it would have costed less but I would have spent more to adapt it to my needs. I will address these questions among others in a next video. Thanks for your kind comment. Good luck with your lathe.
But how do you make sure the Z height doesn't change? The sliding surface of your carriage is just a piece of metal that you glued in there. There is no way that it is flat. Am I missing something here?
Sorry for the late reply. The Z height should not change as long as the whole surface of the carriage is in contact with the flat surface. However I will soon finish the carriage and will perform some tests ...it will be the moment of truth :)
Really enjoying this series, can't wait to see how she cuts!
I don't agree with you, ok to build one but not spending a lot, but in my opinion he didn't spend little, it's better to get an original one, even used, there are some deals on the market.
But this will have the various feeds? Also for threading. :-/
😮😮😮 Wow! Big respect Sir.
hello,
when will be the dovetail cutting video be available cus i am building a lathe myself right now and need to figure out how to cut the dovetail for the slides without a milling machine.
thx
Because I have many things to follow I can't say in advance when, but I hope you'll be notified by YT when the new video will bo up so be sure to subscribe and click the bell icon otherwise you'll miss the notifications. Cheers and good luck with your lathe.
@@AccidentalScience ok thank you. i used sbr25 linear rails and for the compound slide i used just precision rods.
I just finished the compound slide today and figured out that it was a total flop. lol
but anyway i will redo the compound slide someday.
can't wait for your next video
@@drfistus94 My first idea was to use precision rods too, but eventually I scapped the idea bc that would have ended up quite cumbersome, also I've calculated the amplitude of the flexion (bending) under load and it resulted unaccettable for small diameter rods. Also, using linear rails was a good alternative provided to have a flat surface to lay down the rails. I don't like linear rails for this kind of machine bc they run on ball bearings and when a part that have an irregular shape is processed this would cause a pulsed load that would put quite a stress on the rail that would be subjet to pitting by the balls. To clearify, say you want to round up a square, when the tool hit the part to remove the excess a pulse of load is generated when each corner is touched by the tool, this pulse will be obviously transferred down to the bearings that in turn will hit the rail. If the part is turned at 300 rpm the balls will hit the rail at a frequency of 20 pulses per second. Pulsed load is worst than continuous load as each pulse is surrounded by oscillations due to the ringing effect. However this is a relative issue as it depends on the kind of rail and the kind of bearings used: roller bearings are best suited for this kind of application, but even with ball bearings just simply let the maximum load be well below the peak the given rail-bearing couple is able to widthstand and it will works fine.
Hola meu amigo show de mais este projeto,e que me interessa muito!Ta perfeito no mínimos detalhes!Feliz Ano Novo!João Carlos Brasil.
Happy new year.
Fun and good info
I'm really enjoying your video series! Do you plan on making your plans available online anywhere?
Not sure yet. I alredy got a request of this kind but I soon discovered that behind the user there was a Chinese manufacturer. I am happy to share my plans and knowledge with other hobbyists/hackers/makers, but I feel a little bit ouf of comfort when a manufacturer is lurking plans for free, if you get what I mean.
First I will finish and test the machine, then when I'll be sure that's good enough I will decide what to do with the plans.
Happy holidays, Claudio.
@@AccidentalScience I completely understand! I've got an old early 30's Sheldon, but it's not very rigid. Watching you build yours has really made me want to build my own. I also like that yours uses actual bearings not babbit bearings. I look forward to the rest of the build and seeing how it comes out. If there is anything I can do to help, please let me know. Have a very merry Christmas!
super cool! did you put the pins by pressure or did you glue using epoxi?
I spitted them with the force of a machine gun of course! :)
...joke aside, yes by pressure, using my home made press (you can find a couple of videos in my channel).
Hi! Where are you from?)
Excelente
Esse mini torno perfeito
Thank you for video
Really you are wonderful
nice job your friend from morocco
Thanks bud. Love to hear people from all over the world.
Following this lathe build-series up to here, my opinion is "you seem to enjoy to complicate everything and every issue, instead of just building a dam lathe".
That is unfortunately a phenomena which increases with age and wisdom, and I personally also suffer from it - but still: JUST BUILD THE LATHE and stop fussing.
I will watch the rest of the series, as I'm interested to see how it turns out.
I went into making a lathe also to learn and understand how people got precision tools from scratch.
If you chose cold rolled and brazed it you would have a very large amount of warp and twist. It is possible to normalize the brazed assembly and then lap it. But it's a lot of work.
What you did is pretty much as good as it can get with the materials you have chosen to use.
Thank you for the feedback. Honestly I didn't verified what brazing would do, I knew that brazing usually do not cause distortions and warps because the whole material is heated uniformly. Cold rolled steel on one hand is dimensionally more accurate, but on the other hand actually could have a certain degree of latent tensions due to compression so not sure about the possible results. Also, the cold rolled mild steel that I purchased is "relaxed" ...not sure what exactly that should mean except that they charge more money for it :/
Anyway, because I shared this doubt (the risk of warps) I preferred the "cold" solution eventually.
@@AccidentalScience You have an advantage if it is relaxed. That means it has been stress relieved in a heating process. Valuable in what you are making.
@@KravchenkoAudioPerth Cool, so having paid €1.50 per Kg worth it.
Had to be sniffing that glu.
GOOD
Thank you mate.
He used brain power instead of kilowatts. This old Tony humor now.
Helo afarin
Are you German?
Not exactly, if you wonder because the box of cereals written in German, I suppose it is because I live very close to the German speaking region.
@@AccidentalScience its because you said "nicht gut" 😅
@@drfistus94 😃 ...well that was kind of a joke, please don't care too much.
My favourite cereal is Sandvik Coromant. It's great with milk!
Rotfl
Have a prosperous new year.
@@AccidentalScience Thank you. Same to you!
Смешной мужик))
:)
you need to solder brass steel parts and not weld