How I Change The Neckline On My Patterns
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Today I'm going over how to change the neckline on a pattern and how to draft new matching facings to finish them. I have two examples to show you, along with my general tips surrounding necklines! Don't worry, it is very simple!
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Bianca Esposito
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Thank you for watching!
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I just came from your “why you should stop using commercial patterns video” and I IMMEDIATELY see the value in creating your own blocks. I haven’t sewn any clothes yes, but since I’m fat and have issues with finding patterns with my measurements, I think I’m going to go in guns blazing trying to figure this out! Thank you SO MUCH for demystifying the process!!
Same. I am finishing a hand-sewn cape for one kid, making a dress for each kid, then I'm going to make a block. Tall, fat, extremely high-waisted, 35in inseam.... NOTHING fits me right. 😂😂
OK - I'm an almost complete non-sewer (who, despite that shortcoming, so enjoys your channel) - and, to me, dart manipulation is magic. Witchcraft. Sorcery. I love to marvel at, and listen to you narrate, the spectacle ❤️
Thank you Kate!
If one wanted to avoid seeing bra straps, and also have a neckline that was on that borderline, or narrower shoulder straps: Add loops with snaps on the garment near the hollow above or below the collarbone. The loops can be hooked around the bra straps to keep them from sliding out from under the strap.
(I suggest near the collarbone so you reach with both hands and can see what you’re doing in a mirror if necessary. Yes, I realized the hard way that while snapping snaps together should be an easy one handed endeavour - it sometimes isn’t.)
Also a useful, and easy, modification on ready to wear tank tops.
Alternatively, if your bra has straps that can be unhooked on at least one end to reconfigure them, you can sew tubes out of any fabric you like to slide over them. Possibly with interfacing to keep them looking crisp.
Or if the straps can be unhooked from both ends, just make your own bra straps.
And if they can’t be unhooked, you could remove them permanently, and replace them with fabric straps, or bra strap elastic with G-hooks, that can be hooked into lips you sew onto the bra. Do remember that the reason the straps on bras are adjustable is so that straps can be tightened or loosened during the day, or as the elastic/fabric stretches over time - so even though you know how long you need them, that adjustablity might be worth retaining.
Also, cute neckline. I should go take another stab at reworking a top I banished to the naughty bin.
… I’m going to give myself points for creativity and ambition, and reuse the fabric for something else. Yikes.
Every time I watch one of your videos two things run through my mind: 1) I always learn so much from you and 2) I really need to make block patterns for myself and start playing with them.
Same! 😁
Thank you Crystil!
That was fun to watch! I absolutely love that you try anything and everything with your necklines. I love the interest it can give a regular top !! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!
Thank you Sarah!
Here in England we use the term calico to describe quite a strong, tightly woven unbleached cotton (exactly what you used for your block). The fabric we call muslin is a light, lose weave cotton (a delicate fabric with excellent drape that is harder to work with). We do, however, often refer to a toile as a muslin in England.
Sometimes us Brits are very confusing and seem to make things unnecessarily complicated!
Your professionalism makes it easy to learn from and enjoy your videos. The backgrounds are colorful and filled with fascinating items, lighting is excellent, placement of camera is perfect so I can see you work, and narration is perfectly paced. I love the background music also. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, they are much appreciated. You are inspiring.
Thank you Ann!
Your bee tattoo on your arm is really cute. Thank you for the video.
Thank you Jessie!
I feel inspired to jump off the commercial pattern boat, and fly. Thank you. X
Yay! Your makeup today is hot like fire B. I still have yet to make myself these lovely block patterns but I do love using your tips and tricks to change my existing patterns to better suit my dream wardrobe.
Thank you!
The peaked neckline is giving me serious Wonder Woman vibes!
Thanks for this tutorial because neckline facings have been my nemesis for a while!
That last neckline design is my all time favorite of yours ~ So elegant, but equally edgy.
I love this neck line so much!🤩 I'm so happy you do step-by-step so we can follow along when trying do these garments! Thank you!🙌
Thank you Sandy!
Outstanding !!! 💖 Thank you for teaching us how to be confidently dramatic with our necklines. 💖 Love all that you do. 💖
Thank you Dolores!
I have been working on my block patterns all day following your other video, watching this one made me so excited to get to the next step! Thank you!
You are forever helping me make it through my project!
You present very well. Right on, good demonstration pace with no "well um." And you don't say "well right here I have my pins and scissors..." as if we don't already know those tools are a given. Thank you. New neckline here I come.
Thank you for sharing, I now know what the piece of fabric leftover from my very first attempt was 😅😂 and where I should have sewed it 🎉
Yes it is called calico in Australia, at least that's what my mum calls it. She's 70+. Don't see it used/sold much now though. Love the 2nd neckline.
Just watched it again to be clear. Love it.
Your eye make up is spectacular.
What a wonderful tutorial. You do an amazing job of explaining everything.
Thank you Alexandra!
Really nice necklines. I also don't like plunging V's and love a little tiny V neck instead of the jewel neckline on my sheath dresses. I began playing around with asymmetrical necklines opening the bodice on the fold. Thanks for a great video.
This neckline is phenomenal! Thank you for showing it!
Thank you Antonia!
This is one of my favorite necklines I’ve seen you create, since I began following g you years ago
I learn so much every time I watch one of your videos! Thank you.
Thank you Leigh!
Absolutely love the eye makeup today!
This is exactly how my Mum, who was a seamstress in the 40s, taught me how to do clean looking necklines. However, watching how you even handle the iron brings a whole new level of understanding. Thanks Bianca. Please keep up your wonderful work!
And your right about Calico in Australia. 😊
Thank you Kaytie!
Your pattern making is SO SO SO helpful!! Thank you!
Thank you Mary!
I just found your channel and I’m watching all of your videos!
Love the eyeshadow look today! So pretty! Thank you for continuing to show us how to use a bodice block to make different types of garments. Always educational and cool to see the variety.
Thank you!
Would love to know how you make the bodice block!
I love understitching. I know it's something people skip but it was the first 'makes a garment look professional' type of skill i learned about and i dunno i just love to see it 💚
Loving both those necklines. As I am abysmal at sewing collars, these styles will be a real boon the change the look of my shirts for this summer.
Thank you Mandy!
OMG I bought a bunch of muslin for mockups and the stuff was just GAUZE! Now I realize why. It's called CALICO in Australia :) ahhh now it makes sense. Thanks for that little tidbit!
Yeah I’m France you’d have the same issue, “mousseline” (the word that normally would translate muslin in French) is a sort of gauzy, airy, soft and suuuuuper floopy fabric that is unusable for muslins - we call a mockup a “toile”, which is also the generic word for an even classic overunder weave of fabric, and is now the word for muslin/calico to make mockups.
Very informative and explained so clearly. Plus I chuckled a few times, so points for the laughs.
Thank you Reese!
Yeah, we still call it calico here in Australia. I love working with it.
Ooooh…that neckline is amazing and looks gorgeous on you. Thank you for showing us this
Thank you Corey!
That'll be a nice neckline for you when you adjust it. Good for dress clips and/or necklaces!
Thank you!
I love your monotone voice! Plus the way you make your own clothes! 💕🤗
Thank you Karla!
This is AWESOME thank you so much!!! I’m a beginner sewer trying to make more complex cosplays and it calls for a lot of custom necklines and details! This is super helpful!
Bianca, you always look beautiful! Your eye shadow is really popping, I really enjoyed the eyeshadow collection review! Please do a hair tutorial, this hairstyle is my idea of a hair goal!
Any professional hairdressers' tips for fine hair are welcome.
Thank you Lelani! Sadly this was just a particularly good hair day for me 😂 I don't think I could replicate it! I do it the same every time, but it just comes out different each time 😅
Bianca, this is an awesome tutorial! Great job! Your makeup is on on point and gorgeous!
Thank you!
Very cute collar, and you look so glamorous today! I adore the big pearls with the hair. It's very rockabilly.
Thank you!
I love muslin, especially if I'm making a mock up or lining a light-medium fabric because it's a little bit heavier than my fabric but not stiff like regular cotton can be, plus it softens up nicely after washing it a few times
Very interesting. I'm always so in awe of how effortlessly you seem go be able to manipulate these patterns and sew them together. I absolutely love that neckline you created! I really need to learn how to sew, but I'm so intimidated.
me too!! it’s like snip snip snap sew snip snap sew press while I would have made the scissors fall on the floor and fell with them at least twice during those same moves LMAO
Sorry I hadn’t read the end of your comment before replying, but start with something easy with not a lot of steps to make it less scary!! sewing is the most incredible journey you’ll ever be glad to have embarked on, it’s worth it stranger!!
@@LS-vq2or I've always wanted to learn. I do very simple hand sewing, but I want to learn all the fancy things! LOL
Thank you! Sewing seems like a lot of things at first, but just take it one step at a time. Like all things, you will improve with practice and get comfortable on the machine and such. Remember I have been sewing for nearly 18 years! So I didn't get to the point I'm at now overnight for sure ❤
@TheClosetHistorian I know, u really should jump in. I just don't have a good setup to work, and materials are pricey, so I'm really concerned about messing it up and wasting everything.
It's always a pleasant surprise whenever you upload an extra video in a week. This is also just a really nice, comprehensive tutorial for necklines.
Thank you Kathryn!
Yeah we call it calico here in uk, I remember the smell too when I went to college, miss those days 😊
Brilliant! Thanks for showing me how to’s, they are beautiful!
Thank you Viviana!
Wonderful thank you ♥🙏🏼♥I learn a lot from your tutorials😊
I adore the second neckline!! There's something so sophisticated about it
Am.looking everywhere on TH-cam on how you can alter the basic blocks and I am.so happy to finally found your channel!!!
Guess what I am working at a project with the change of neckline and here you are! Unbelievable! Thank you! Love from Italy!
Just found your channel....really enjoy your instruction. Explaining why you are doing certain things is so helpful. I always have issues with patterns being too wide in the shoulders. I have subscribed!
Thank you Bonnie!
In this video you look like Morticia Adams and Marylin Monroe‘s lovechild and it is fantastic! Apart from the visuals and the good view of your drafting this video gave me the confidence to be more daring when drawing necklines!!
Thank you!
I LOVE your patternmaking videos your process is so interesting and your voice over has to be one of my fav on youtube how you talk is both super funny and calming loved this video the second neckline is amazing
Thank you!
Hi Bianca!! Wonderful step-by-step as always.. Your make up is absolutely beautiful.. Second neckline is by far my favorite one.. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. I deeply appreciate everything you do….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you Deana!
Love the second neck line. Glad you are doing it on a garment later!
I can't tell you how many of your dart manipulation videos I've seen but it wasn't until today that I actually understood it! Thank you for not just going oh I've showed this to you before I don't need to show it to you again because maybe people are like me and you got to see something over and over again until it finally makes sense.
That peaked neckline is so flattering! I'm excited to see what you make from it! 😄
Thank you! It's a new favorite now!
Thank you Bianca, your tutorials are so helpful! and I admire your 99k every time I see it 🤩
Thank you Jane!
Can confirm muslin is calico in Australia, I just bought a roll of it today. Obviously I have no chill because I pattern draft with permanent marker 😅
Thanks so much for this tutorial, I'm feeling much more confident drafting facings now. All your flat pattern drafting tutorials have been amazing to learn from as a beginner.
Thank you Amy! ❤
Absolute Excellence!!!
Thank you!!
How fun! Thank you!! Great videos as always!!
Thank you!
Super helpful. Great demonstration. Thank you!
Thank you!
I always loved the smell of ironed (unbleached) muslin, it reminds me of cookies, oddly enough. Warm and toasty
It's very cookie adjacent coziness!
Thank you so much for sharing this information. Just created a sloper; this is so helpful. Love your channel.
Thank you Cristina!
oh wow, what memories you have brought back. I majored in clothing construction in college 30 years ago. Somewhere are my blocks (slopers) but they are 50+ lbs off. You did a wonderful video,. it is very informative and very well done, like the rest of your videos.
Thank you Becky!
Love this, so helpful and clear. Thank you.
Thank you Jennet!
I really appreciate the pattern altering portion of your videos. I'm learning so much! Thank you.
I asked you about your machine maintenance program. I've just rescued a vintage Singer (201-2), and I sent it out for professional servicing. The electrical system worked, but it looked wonky to me, and I'd rather not take the chance of getting an electrical shock, thank you, so... off to the spa. Anyway, according to the manual that came with it, the machine should be oiled after every 8 hours of sewing. (what???). There are diagrams for the oil points, and each point gets one (and only 1) drop of oil. I learned to sew on my mother's Singer 201 and I'm sure it was never oiled or serviced. A testament to the engineering of those machines! Anyway...
Thank you! I know they say to oil them constantly 😅 thirsty apparently!
This is great!
Thank you so much.
I love the instruction and especially the partial understitching. I just thought I was bad at pointy necklines
Yep, we call it calico in Australia, what we call muslin is a super lightweight cotton.
Not just Aussie. Only America calls calico, muslin. The rest of the world call the heavy canvas like unbleached cotton, calico, and the soft sheer, loosely woven cotton fabric, muslin.
Thank you for taking the time to show us. Have to adjust a neckline and armscye on a woven tank.
Awesome neckline! Can’t wait to see this in a dress!
Thank you Charese!
Thank you, thank you. This is so much easier than I expected. I have a curvy bust for my size and now looking forward to being able to draft the necklines/facings that flatter me
I have instructions on how to make a block for my ... traditionally built body, and an old dead quilt cover to use for mockups. Now, thanks to your instruction videos, I think I'm ready to try and make the bungalow housedress I've wanted for years. My mind of course converts all the maths you use, and it's lovely! So I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you for explaining things so well, best wishes x
Thank you Heather!
You are correct. In the UK we call Muslin Calico because in the UK muslin is more like a voile like type fabric.
Yes, muslin is known as calico in Australia :-)
I wasn’t sure when you started the peaked neckline…..but I love it 🥰 Thanks to you I’ve become very comfortable changing up necklines but I’ve never done one that detailed. Goals!
Thank you Amy!
Thank you for both walkthroughs and I am excited to see the dress you make with the second neckline that is so awesome a detail
Thank you Alexandra!
I love your channel so much. I always feel inspired and like I can achieve what you have done because you explain everything so clearly! Thank you!
Thank you!!
Very informative!!
I am to start sewing on a skirt and a top for my mother (a gift) and now it will look so much better with that clever topstitching on the inside! I always thought the topstitching had to be visable, and I never liked the look of it. Thank you 😘
No you're right, top stitching is decorative and visible. This type of stitching is called understitching (because it's, well, not on top) and has to catch the seam allowance to be helpful for keeping the facing from flipping to the outside.
Really enjoyed this! Thank you for sharing with us. Now I know why the facing on a newly made blouse is not behaving. I bet I’ve sewn the shoulder part of the facing to the centre front of my blouse. Dang that’s sneaky. Sending best wishes from Down Under 💚💚💐🇦🇺😎
Thank you Rhonda! I always fear the shoulder switch up!!
Great! Love the mockup and so excited to see what you do with it next. I made my slopers earlier this week (around 4am while unable to sleep, yet to see if they're at all usable...) and eager to make myself a dress that actually fits. 😊
Love the eye makeup today! A few questions about necklines...
1. You said that you didn't understitch the second neckline all the way across because the points will get in the way. Can't you follow the points along the neckline?
2. When I do neckline facings, I find that they like to misbehave and don't naturally lay flat unless I tuck them down by hand. Any ideas how to stop this? FYI, I usually work on light/medium weight cotton (e.g. brushed cotton), have a 2inch wide facing for a wide, scooped neckline, and edge stitch the facing.
TIA and lots of love from the UK!
You are gorgeous and talented. Keep slaying girl
Very Good instructions. Can you tell us how to change the neckline on a princess bodice?
Thank you! I'm afraid I would do it the exact same way!
Love this video 🥰 I learned so much and someday will be brave and never buy another pattern 😂 (except maybe vintage ones)
Thank you Emma!
In Australia we do indeed call it calico. Muslin is a very loose weave cotton here so it caused me some confusion hearing Americans call calico “muslin” because it would be awful to use as toiles. 😂
I love watching these videos! I can’t wait until I can do things like this! If my pattern has a turtle neck and I want to change it to a normal circular neck, how would I do that?
Thank you Cally! It depends on the style of turtleneck, if it is "grown on" aka there is no seam between the collar piece and the main bodice then the change is different than if there is a seam there, and if it is meant to be made from a woven or a knit the processes would be different as well. I have no experience with knit (aka stretchy) patterns unfortunately!
Confession: when you say bye at the end of your videos I say "Bye!" back 🤣
Thank you for sharing these tips - wonderful! X x
Thank you Ann!
What sort of scissors are they ?thanks for demo you make it so easy to understand
A question for anyone: do you have recommended silk pin brand?
I’d like to try some and looking at reviews for a few seems they bend very easily or are dull and snag the fabric.
Thanks for this! I always get tangled up in the facings, although my two favourite shirt patterns that use them are both single piece front, single piece back so I'm always confused how to understitch... A few times I left them open at the shoulders and did those seams last but it seems a bit bulky somtimes. Obviously I need more practice.
Any tips for dealing with the facing where it was difficult to understitch but machine? Should I do understitching by hand or is there another trick to keeping the facing hidden?
Brilliant video as always!
I do hand understitching ... I've even added hand sewn understitching on ready-made blouses when the facing wouldn't stay put.
Thank you Flynn! I think, being on the lazy side myself, I would just tack the facing down to the fashion fabric with a few tiny stitches (I always do it at the shoulder seams and usually the center front) if I had one that didn't want to behave 😅
…I know that it’s a matter of opinion/taste/personal preference, but the thumbnail has one of the most flattering necklines I’ve seen on you (a one of your videos) …not that the others are bad, I’d just call this one particularly fetching 😉
Thank you Sierra!
I was distracted by your gorgeous lavender eye shadow!
This was awesome
Thank you Liz!
Calico was originally a cheap, coarse(ish), printed India cotton. Muslin was originally a fine, plain Middle Eastern cotton.
In USA both are readily available. I've never been to UK.