I really appreciate that you include the weights. When creating vessels, weight of the wax and weight of the vessel is important if trying to keep a shipped candle weight to be less than a pound. Materials matter!
I have two questions? WHAT is your skincare routine and, while I greatly appreciate you sharing your cement formulas, what, pray tell, is your energy formula? Love your Vibe and videos!
Super nice of you. My skin care routine is no meat, no alcohol, no over exposure to sun and lots of fruits and vegetables. My energy... well... you should see how I look after I film a video. Flatline!
Jay your videos are awesome! I would really appreciate if you could help with these: 1. Why not go with Hydrostone instead? I've read it's better than Hydrocal. 2. Is Eco Advance a good sealant for Hydrocal/Hydrostone? 3. How long would it take to completely dry > apply sealant > dry again? Can't seem to find these answers anywhere, but picked Eco Advance tip from your other video. Thanks!!!
Thanks. Hydrostone is great. Love it. I’ve never sealed hydrostone or hydrocal with anything other than Earth Safe Finishes. Eco Advance should work fine and dry within 2 days.
Thank you so much Jai! Love the comparisons. I regularly use aqua resin type material and it is reported to be very strong. Comparatively speaking, do you know the strength of the Hydrocal?
Hydrocal is weaker than hydrostone, however, if you are a responsible candle maker with your temps you should be fine using hydrocal. Watch this video th-cam.com/video/tIy3f_ZGO50/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_v603t1iHye5HYv_
There's a very very good reason why hydrocal is so similar to cement all... It literally has portland cement in it, up to like 15-20% depending on the manufacturer. You just don't have to deal with all the coarse aggregate.
I reached out to the mfg of Hydrocal back in February to ask if HydroCal and Ultracal was flame/fire resistant. Explaining my primary purpose was to make candle vessels. They responded saying no. The highest temperature it can reach is 120F before it starts to calcinate. Once the vessel starts to calcinate, moisture reduces, becomes flaky, crusty. The moisture in gypsum helps grow crystals to bind the structure, giving its strength. Further the heat escalates in burning wax, especially in power burn, the integrity of the structure is could be compromised. HydroCal or UltrCal is used for more for applications of mold casting such as lamp bases, vases, masks, etc.
Really good video Jai, It was good to see a review on different materials. I cant get them all here in the UK but I have already sourced some good alternatives I think might do the job, Ill let you know how it goes once I've tested them. Anyway thanks for another excellent video.
Hey Jay, incredible video... from what I learned Hydrocal seems to be the obvious business alternative... could you make a video with hydrocal and what is the best sealer for it for candle making with it? also, do a burn test to test its reliability of it when subjected to heat and melted wax? also, have toy tested hydro-stone? Thanks again for all your videos, truly engaging and enlightening
Yes I plan to do that sometime down the road. I love working with Hydrocal. It is so easy to work with and the fact that it demolds super fast is such a plus. Thanks for the comment.
Great video!! I used the measurements provided and was able to make 2 vessels. Also.. I never really achieved the dried lake bed affect. Is it because I poured the hydrocal mix in too fast?
Hi BCA. You won't get a dry bed lake effect if you don't let it stand for 5 minutes or more. The quicker you mix it the faster you have to use it and the more mixing you need to do. If you let it stand for a while it practically does the mixing for you... It's crazy stuff. Love Hydrocal.
Hi Jai! Loving your videos, I recently wanted to make my own candle jars and was stuck between cement all and hydrocal. If both were available to you at a local store, which one would you choose? Also, safety is priority for me... is hydrocal safe as a candle container (heat resistant, etc.) as long as you use a sealant like earth safe finishes? Thanks again for all the info!
Excellent question. I am still testing hydrocal. To me it is the easiest to work with. From what I know it must be sealed properly as it starts the calcination process at around 125 degrees. With a good sealant you are protecting it from those elements and lessening the chances of that occurring.
Hi Jai, loving your energy and your helpful info. In your Jai's formula you use cement, sand, plaster and water. Can I ask is the plaster necessary or can you just use cement sand and water? Does plaster effect the strength of the vessel? TIA
Thank you so much for all your energy and interesting videos! I just want to know if we have to cure the vessels in water overnight, the jai's formula one (one of my favorite) the hydrocal one and the white cement one. Thanks and regards from the Dominican Republic!
I actually just watched that, however, I was asking about the fact that the hydrocal seems much more expensive than the cement all. I’m wondering if the cost difference makes up the difference in shipping due to weight. Hopefully I’m making sense.
@@rhiannonseabolt9340Got it. Check this video out. The section that talks about cost will help you understand my thinking of cost and the difference between the 2. th-cam.com/video/viz0A_MNtfc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rYNuHAOHC45lq0oe
Check the link here. www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/resource-center/tools/where-to-buy.html. If not then call a rep in your area. The number is on the page I sent. I had mine shipped but there is a place not too far from me if I want to invest long term.
Thank you. Hydrocal and Hydrostone are both gypsum-based materials used for casting and sculpting. The main difference lies in their strength and hardness. Hydrocal is generally softer and less durable, making it suitable for more delicate applications, while Hydrostone is stronger and harder, making it ideal for projects that require greater resilience and durability.
First of all, you're quite a character. I feel like I'm watching Anthony Hopkins tell me all about concrete casting and that's just pretty awesome, honestly. I've also gotta thank you for the tests. Personally, I'm way out in Farmville USA wherein both art and culture are about as scarce as critical thinking skills so getting my hands on most of these products would require quite an investment in shipping costs. I was shocked, however, that Hydrocal cures at a compressive strength of 5k psi. That's pretty impressive for a material that seems to possess both workability and rapid setting. If I wasn't already all-in for Cement-All and GFRC and if it wasn't so difficult to procure from out here in the sticks, I'd probably give it a solid go for the smaller stuff. Sadly, the only product you're working with here that's even remotely available way out in the corn is the Cement-All, barring kinky mortar mixes of course. I'm not at all pleased with the outcome of mortar. It's plenty strong but demolding after 24 hours and curing at 28 days don't hold a candle to any of the products you've demonstrated here. Jai's Formula, your own special blend, had me at portland cement but lost me at plaster due to plaster's diminishing returns. I'm looking to start a concrete "statuary and stuff" business, a 2-year endeavor that's about to arrive at fruition, so I've gone about testing quite a few mix designs as well as what can and can't be done with plaster. All of the material I've tested comes from the local Menards. Home Depot's about an hour away so, when this small business needs material, it's taking a truck and trailer to get that done. So a 4" x 1.5" ashtray-type pot cast in mortar can survive a fall from 6 feet onto concrete without sustaining visible damage but I've found it impossible to achieve a mix design incorporating plaster that doesn't shatter on impact. Although it offers the ability to significantly decrease the weight of the cast, it also seems to significantly decrease that cast's durability. My current mortar mix design achieves about 3,800 psi compressive at cure but that's also incorporating hydrated lime, a material that's also pretty difficult to get one's hands on out here, so the backup has always been the basic 2500 psi Type M mortar recipe. It's practical, fairly durable and sourced locally, albeit bearing a really slow turnaround and requiring of dozens of molds per product to achieve volume production. Like you, though, I can say in the light of day that I thoroughly love what Hydrocal appears to be about but, in the dungeony recesses of the garage, it's probably going to be Cement-All that's getting the job done, simply because it's available, it's high-end for casting, it finishes really nice, it's extremely durable at 9k psi compressive and it demolds in under an hour / fully cures within 4 days. We process our own molds as well so that significantly reduces the overhead / allows for a lot of molds to be poured per that hour. What I'd like to see, which isn't presented all that often, are durability tests in real-world scenarios. If my dear Socks, a rather diminutive American Shorthair cat with a larger-than-life penchant for shoving stuff off of other stuff decides she wants to put my products through their drop tests, there's not much I can say or do about that beyond hoping to catch it all on video to demonstrate product durability. :D
Don’t forget you have access to Cement All and Hydrocal. My formula is for those who don’t have your accessibility. People all over the world are pleased to have that ability and so that is why I added it. Good luck with your new venture and thanks for the message. Your friend. Anthony Hopkins.
@@upvibecandle - Another thing I should probably mention is that you inspired a consideration and that I think I'm really going to appreciate that. I also watched your mold review video and, frankly, mold creation is sort of an occupational hazard for statuary casting. I also really like the notion of makers supporting makers so venturing into that market seems like the natural thing to do.
Hi Jai, just found your channel and LOVE it. I've learned so much. I'm currently making vessels with Resincrete by JDiction, but I'm interested in experimenting with Hydrocal and Cement All. Two questions: there are different versions of Hydrocal- which works best for candle vessels? (I'm assuming the one used for lamp bases?) and is Cement All pure white when cured? (maybe it's me, but I see no links to products in your description box??). Thanks so much for this channel!!
@@upvibecandle Thank you! I will. I use beeswax, which burns hotter. I seal my vessels (and your sealants review vid is fantastic). I've placed a call to USG for additional info but my 'rep' hasn't called me back. I'll just have to experiment. Also experimenting with sealing/painting/resealing in addition to adding color to the mix. The possibilities are endless!
Question for you: Why do you use Cemental when you ranked Hydrocal your favorite? I have purchased a full pallet of hydrocal and I'm making vessels but I've never used anything else. Just wondering why you don't use hydrocal as your go to.
Hi Jai! Great video as always. From your testing, do you find that hydrocal accelerates mold shrinkage? I've heard that Cement All can over time because of the accelerators in it, and I was wondering if hydrocal would behave similarly since it's so fast setting.
@@upvibecandle how do you think it compares to hydrocal? I’ve heard that hydrostone is stronger, but I plan to package securely regardless of material, so breakage wouldn’t really concern me.
awesome video and excellent information Jai, I live Australia and do not have access to Cement All but can get Hydrocal, can you please do some more videos relating to Hydrocal please ? thanks champ
Thanks Todd. I can't lie. I love Hydrocal. It's more money for me and Cement All is super easy to get but something keeps telling me to go that route. I will seriously consider it and make some videos along the way. And when you start using it let me know how it goes for you. It's an awesome product for sure. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@jimmyjones6389 I like CA too. I might make the switch but it's not as easy to get. If I ever need CA I just go to Home Depot and I get pick up a ton of it. I have to order Hydrocal.
@@upvibecandle I just picked up a 50 lb. bag from Home Depot. I didn't realize how heavy 50 lbs. actually was. Thought I'd just stroll in and out with it. But nooooooooooo.
@@jimmyjones6389 50lbs is no joke. In fact, I bring my container with me and dump the 50 lbs of CA in my container at the parking lot of HD. It's easier for me to carry my container to my basement... And much cleaner.
@@upvibecandle I just tested it and i waited 24 hours before demolding them and they fall apart ill try to find Plaster somewhere. I will do my testing.
@@samuilzlatarov2641 This is the newer version of the Alternatives' video. th-cam.com/video/0RJypw_vkoQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HL68fivnrT4jrk9S. Try following the formula here or find an alternative in this video.
I’m looking to get that red your created in jays formula. I want to make a red and black candle. Can I mix cement all to create my black and then mix the jay formula to create that red then pour together in mold
If you follow the same format as I do you should have very similar results. Keep in mind there are always slight differences between viewing a video and seeing something in person.@@aquilgoodman
❤ My Concrete Candle Jar Course - theupvibe.com/the-winning-formula/ ❤ My Etsy Shop for Labels, Thank You & Candle Care Cards - upvibecreations.etsy.com ❤ Subscribe Now - tinyurl.com/2p9e5aph
@@jya811 check out my video on sealants. th-cam.com/video/b6w9yE3s7Z4/w-d-xo.html. I haven't tested jesmonite and aqua resin myself but many people use it regularly to sell candles. Hydrostone, my formula and cement all were all sealed with ESF. However, I would imagine any sealer from that video would work but again... test it.
Whoa, I’m going to need to slow down this video, and get my calculator out. 😂 Why is it difficult to get Jesmonite into US? If you look at the chemical compositions of each, would that change you choice; why/why not…. Love how they all came out; colors are nice. Ciao
@@upvibecandle I’m glad you commented on this. People I know using this are in other parts of the world. I heard it was hard to get here. However, I watch what’s cost effective… I am subscribed, and enjoying your videos. Ciao
@@upvibecandle If I were to use jesmonite, which preserver/sealer would you recommend for it? (if it's ESF, do let me know another option incase I can't get my hands on that specific one) :)
@@lanaya.h I truly can't answer that question as I am not a Jesmonite user per se. You should however, test any products you use as there are always variations. Hope that helps.
@@upvibecandle what one would you pick that one are the stone cause the cement use be using we can’t get it in the uk but can get other cement but I don’t know which one would do
Out off them all what one would you pick and some stuff I can’t find cause I’m in the uk but you see the cement can you use any type cause we haven’t got the one you used in video
Ok. Agregué los subtítulos en español. Presiona la rueda de ajustes y elige los subtítulos en español. Avísame si quieres que haga eso para otros videos también.
If you have Cement All use that and don't add anything. If you can't find a concrete mix then adding plaster will speed up the demolding time. However, the better the plaster the better your results. POP is the lowest form of plaster on the spectrum.
This enthusiasm is great
I really appreciate that you include the weights. When creating vessels, weight of the wax and weight of the vessel is important if trying to keep a shipped candle weight to be less than a pound. Materials matter!
Thank you so much for this research! ❤ You’re so talented and enthusiastic 🎉😊 Amazing content!
You are very welcome and thank you for your lovely compliment.
I am so grateful and glad I came across your channel. I love your energy and can’t wait to learn so much more from you! ❤🔥🍾
Thanks glad you are here as well.
I have two questions? WHAT is your skincare routine and, while I greatly appreciate you sharing your cement formulas, what, pray tell, is your energy formula? Love your Vibe and videos!
Super nice of you. My skin care routine is no meat, no alcohol, no over exposure to sun and lots of fruits and vegetables. My energy... well... you should see how I look after I film a video. Flatline!
Love your energy.Your nuclear and hyper as can be. Thank you for your presentations!!!!
Jay your videos are awesome! I would really appreciate if you could help with these:
1. Why not go with Hydrostone instead? I've read it's better than Hydrocal.
2. Is Eco Advance a good sealant for Hydrocal/Hydrostone?
3. How long would it take to completely dry > apply sealant > dry again?
Can't seem to find these answers anywhere, but picked Eco Advance tip from your other video. Thanks!!!
Thanks. Hydrostone is great. Love it.
I’ve never sealed hydrostone or hydrocal with anything other than Earth Safe Finishes.
Eco Advance should work fine and dry within 2 days.
Thank you so much Jai! Love the comparisons. I regularly use aqua resin type material and it is reported to be very strong. Comparatively speaking, do you know the strength of the Hydrocal?
Hydrocal is weaker than hydrostone, however, if you are a responsible candle maker with your temps you should be fine using hydrocal. Watch this video th-cam.com/video/tIy3f_ZGO50/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_v603t1iHye5HYv_
There's a very very good reason why hydrocal is so similar to cement all... It literally has portland cement in it, up to like 15-20% depending on the manufacturer. You just don't have to deal with all the coarse aggregate.
I reached out to the mfg of Hydrocal back in February to ask if HydroCal and Ultracal was flame/fire resistant. Explaining my primary purpose was to make candle vessels. They responded saying no. The highest temperature it can reach is 120F before it starts to calcinate.
Once the vessel starts to calcinate, moisture reduces, becomes flaky, crusty. The moisture in gypsum helps grow crystals to bind the structure, giving its strength. Further the heat escalates in burning wax, especially in power burn, the integrity of the structure is could be compromised.
HydroCal or UltrCal is used for more for applications of mold casting such as lamp bases, vases, masks, etc.
You are absolutely correct. That’s why it’s important to seal it properly. Thanks for the great and helpful comment.
Please consider subscribing if you enjoy my work. → tinyurl.com/2p9e5aph
Really good video Jai, It was good to see a review on different materials. I cant get them all here in the UK but I have already sourced some good alternatives I think might do the job, Ill let you know how it goes once I've tested them. Anyway thanks for another excellent video.
Excellent. Yes let me know. I’m always looking to learn and grow. Thanks.
Jamie did you find any good materials as I’m in Ireland and don’t same to have any luck finding these things either
Hey Jay, incredible video... from what I learned Hydrocal seems to be the obvious business alternative... could you make a video with hydrocal and what is the best sealer for it for candle making with it? also, do a burn test to test its reliability of it when subjected to heat and melted wax? also, have toy tested hydro-stone? Thanks again for all your videos, truly engaging and enlightening
Yes I plan to do that sometime down the road. I love working with Hydrocal. It is so easy to work with and the fact that it demolds super fast is such a plus. Thanks for the comment.
Exactly my thought 😅
Did you make a video where you wick tested these vessels?
No, but you can see me wick testing vessels of the same size here. th-cam.com/video/YKXgWUfZ6L8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1abWGojFdvlpsqEg
@@upvibecandle much appreciated, thank you so much.
Love the video. What type of concrete and sand did you use I didn't see it in your list. I want the red like you got
I used regular white cement and white sand. Nothing fancy. I was trying to show that it doesn't take much. Here is the red. amzn.to/3PdGa4l
Great video!! I used the measurements provided and was able to make 2 vessels. Also.. I never really achieved the dried lake bed affect. Is it because I poured the hydrocal mix in too fast?
Hi BCA. You won't get a dry bed lake effect if you don't let it stand for 5 minutes or more. The quicker you mix it the faster you have to use it and the more mixing you need to do. If you let it stand for a while it practically does the mixing for you... It's crazy stuff. Love Hydrocal.
The thermopump easthetics is perfect 🤌
I'm not sure what that means.
Hi Jai! Loving your videos, I recently wanted to make my own candle jars and was stuck between cement all and hydrocal. If both were available to you at a local store, which one would you choose? Also, safety is priority for me... is hydrocal safe as a candle container (heat resistant, etc.) as long as you use a sealant like earth safe finishes? Thanks again for all the info!
Excellent question. I am still testing hydrocal. To me it is the easiest to work with. From what I know it must be sealed properly as it starts the calcination process at around 125 degrees. With a good sealant you are protecting it from those elements and lessening the chances of that occurring.
Awesome and very informative..... thanks
You are very welcome.
Hi Jai, loving your energy and your helpful info. In your Jai's formula you use cement, sand, plaster and water. Can I ask is the plaster necessary or can you just use cement sand and water? Does plaster effect the strength of the vessel? TIA
The short answer is yes you can omit the plaster. Plaster helps speed up the demolding process.
Thanks Jai. I've just de moulded my first set of 5 vessels and for my first effort, they aren't too bad @@upvibecandle
Thank you so much for all your energy and interesting videos! I just want to know if we have to cure the vessels in water overnight, the jai's formula one (one of my favorite) the hydrocal one and the white cement one. Thanks and regards from the Dominican Republic!
Any formula that has plaster in it you do not need to water bathe including my formula and hydrocal.
Thank you so much for this video
You are very welcome.
I always wondered where that "Slap Chop" guy went. lol......zucchini , linguini, bikini.......
I had no idea what you were talking about and had to look it up. Very funny.
are hydrocal and hydrostone basically the same thing?
@@LadyWhiteOwl No they are different.
Maybe i missed it, but did you factor in the actual cost of the cement all vs hydro cal when talking about savings?
th-cam.com/video/dAQ9XH5sEiQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eadABuNOGfYIZjB3
I actually just watched that, however, I was asking about the fact that the hydrocal seems much more expensive than the cement all. I’m wondering if the cost difference makes up the difference in shipping due to weight. Hopefully I’m making sense.
@@rhiannonseabolt9340Got it. Check this video out. The section that talks about cost will help you understand my thinking of cost and the difference between the 2. th-cam.com/video/viz0A_MNtfc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rYNuHAOHC45lq0oe
Where can I get hydro cal? I live near L.A., Ca? I’m really enjoying your teaching. Great instructions.
Check the link here. www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/resource-center/tools/where-to-buy.html. If not then call a rep in your area. The number is on the page I sent. I had mine shipped but there is a place not too far from me if I want to invest long term.
Please tell me what material you put on the silicone mold for the thick part to dry at the same As a thin one.
what about the price of the materials? I'm missing a full economic overview
th-cam.com/video/1CItQaZVuzk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5OYg5B0sgrb9bwVx
What sort of cement would you recommend using for Jai's Formula? Any specific brand, type, etc? Much love!
Portland Cement
I really love watching all your videos, they are super informative and so helpful.
Can you tell me the difference between hydrocal and hydrostone?
Thank you. Hydrocal and Hydrostone are both gypsum-based materials used for casting and sculpting. The main difference lies in their strength and hardness. Hydrocal is generally softer and less durable, making it suitable for more delicate applications, while Hydrostone is stronger and harder, making it ideal for projects that require greater resilience and durability.
Perfect, thank you so much! I've been looking at hydrostone but wanted to check on that first.
Much appreciate all your help and videos!!
Me encanta tu canal y tu forma tan agradable de enseñar❤
¡Qué Bueno! Gracias por decirme eso.
First of all, you're quite a character. I feel like I'm watching Anthony Hopkins tell me all about concrete casting and that's just pretty awesome, honestly.
I've also gotta thank you for the tests. Personally, I'm way out in Farmville USA wherein both art and culture are about as scarce as critical thinking skills so getting my hands on most of these products would require quite an investment in shipping costs. I was shocked, however, that Hydrocal cures at a compressive strength of 5k psi. That's pretty impressive for a material that seems to possess both workability and rapid setting. If I wasn't already all-in for Cement-All and GFRC and if it wasn't so difficult to procure from out here in the sticks, I'd probably give it a solid go for the smaller stuff.
Sadly, the only product you're working with here that's even remotely available way out in the corn is the Cement-All, barring kinky mortar mixes of course. I'm not at all pleased with the outcome of mortar. It's plenty strong but demolding after 24 hours and curing at 28 days don't hold a candle to any of the products you've demonstrated here. Jai's Formula, your own special blend, had me at portland cement but lost me at plaster due to plaster's diminishing returns. I'm looking to start a concrete "statuary and stuff" business, a 2-year endeavor that's about to arrive at fruition, so I've gone about testing quite a few mix designs as well as what can and can't be done with plaster. All of the material I've tested comes from the local Menards. Home Depot's about an hour away so, when this small business needs material, it's taking a truck and trailer to get that done.
So a 4" x 1.5" ashtray-type pot cast in mortar can survive a fall from 6 feet onto concrete without sustaining visible damage but I've found it impossible to achieve a mix design incorporating plaster that doesn't shatter on impact. Although it offers the ability to significantly decrease the weight of the cast, it also seems to significantly decrease that cast's durability. My current mortar mix design achieves about 3,800 psi compressive at cure but that's also incorporating hydrated lime, a material that's also pretty difficult to get one's hands on out here, so the backup has always been the basic 2500 psi Type M mortar recipe. It's practical, fairly durable and sourced locally, albeit bearing a really slow turnaround and requiring of dozens of molds per product to achieve volume production.
Like you, though, I can say in the light of day that I thoroughly love what Hydrocal appears to be about but, in the dungeony recesses of the garage, it's probably going to be Cement-All that's getting the job done, simply because it's available, it's high-end for casting, it finishes really nice, it's extremely durable at 9k psi compressive and it demolds in under an hour / fully cures within 4 days. We process our own molds as well so that significantly reduces the overhead / allows for a lot of molds to be poured per that hour.
What I'd like to see, which isn't presented all that often, are durability tests in real-world scenarios. If my dear Socks, a rather diminutive American Shorthair cat with a larger-than-life penchant for shoving stuff off of other stuff decides she wants to put my products through their drop tests, there's not much I can say or do about that beyond hoping to catch it all on video to demonstrate product durability. :D
Don’t forget you have access to Cement All and Hydrocal. My formula is for those who don’t have your accessibility. People all over the world are pleased to have that ability and so that is why I added it. Good luck with your new venture and thanks for the message. Your friend. Anthony Hopkins.
@@upvibecandle - Another thing I should probably mention is that you inspired a consideration and that I think I'm really going to appreciate that.
I also watched your mold review video and, frankly, mold creation is sort of an occupational hazard for statuary casting. I also really like the notion of makers supporting makers so venturing into that market seems like the natural thing to do.
I am glad to hear.
This guy seems like he should be on a OxiClean commercial
@@At_least_im_not_a_Karen That’s something only a Karen would say.
Hi Jai, just found your channel and LOVE it. I've learned so much. I'm currently making vessels with Resincrete by JDiction, but I'm interested in experimenting with Hydrocal and Cement All. Two questions: there are different versions of Hydrocal- which works best for candle vessels? (I'm assuming the one used for lamp bases?) and is Cement All pure white when cured? (maybe it's me, but I see no links to products in your description box??). Thanks so much for this channel!!
Look for hydrostone. It's even better. Thanks for the compliment.
@@upvibecandle Thank you! I will. I use beeswax, which burns hotter. I seal my vessels (and your sealants review vid is fantastic). I've placed a call to USG for additional info but my 'rep' hasn't called me back. I'll just have to experiment. Also experimenting with sealing/painting/resealing in addition to adding color to the mix. The possibilities are endless!
@@tatortot6776 So true! Let me know how it goes.
Question for you: Why do you use Cemental when you ranked Hydrocal your favorite? I have purchased a full pallet of hydrocal and I'm making vessels but I've never used anything else. Just wondering why you don't use hydrocal as your go to.
I do use it but it’s more difficult to get. Cement All is always available.
I am prejudice Jai, Aqua Resin all the way.👍...great video.
Aqua resin is great. I loved using it. Thanks for the comment Tracy. I truly appreciate it.
So if you seal aqua resin, it is safe and can tolerate the candle heat?
@@MrsBonzo3 Yes you can. Parris Tracy is very knowledgable on Aqua Resin and uses it and loves it. Check her out th-cam.com/users/parristracy
Hi Jay, what sealant would you recommend for Hydrocal?
I’m sealing my hydrocal with Earth Safe Finishes.
@@upvibecandle Thank you Jay, you are always very helpful, resourceful and responsive !!!
Hi Jai! Great video as always. From your testing, do you find that hydrocal accelerates mold shrinkage? I've heard that Cement All can over time because of the accelerators in it, and I was wondering if hydrocal would behave similarly since it's so fast setting.
No I haven't really noticed much shrinking at all.
@@upvibecandle that's great to hear! I think I'm leaning towards hydrostone, but both products seem like excellent alternatives.
@@allyg2009 I really like Hydrostone.
@@upvibecandle how do you think it compares to hydrocal? I’ve heard that hydrostone is stronger, but I plan to package securely regardless of material, so breakage wouldn’t really concern me.
@@allyg2009 It's very similar. Hydrostone takes longer to dry but it's stronger and more durable imo.
awesome video and excellent information Jai, I live Australia and do not have access to Cement All but can get Hydrocal, can you please do some more videos relating to Hydrocal please ? thanks champ
Thanks Todd. I can't lie. I love Hydrocal. It's more money for me and Cement All is super easy to get but something keeps telling me to go that route. I will seriously consider it and make some videos along the way. And when you start using it let me know how it goes for you. It's an awesome product for sure. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@upvibecandle will keep you updated for sure, thank you for replying 😀
Hi there
Which sand should we use ??
In Jay’s formula
Try construction sand.
Thanks for this. Is Hydrocal ok for candles? Never mind. I read more below. Looks like it's not.
Yes you can use hydrocal but you must make sure it is sealed properly.
@@upvibecandle Thank you. I'll stick with cement-all. I like the feel of it more than anything else.
@@jimmyjones6389 I like CA too. I might make the switch but it's not as easy to get. If I ever need CA I just go to Home Depot and I get pick up a ton of it. I have to order Hydrocal.
@@upvibecandle I just picked up a 50 lb. bag from Home Depot. I didn't realize how heavy 50 lbs. actually was. Thought I'd just stroll in and out with it. But nooooooooooo.
@@jimmyjones6389 50lbs is no joke. In fact, I bring my container with me and dump the 50 lbs of CA in my container at the parking lot of HD. It's easier for me to carry my container to my basement... And much cleaner.
Hello, will it be a problem if i use only Cement and Sand i dont have access to plaster ?
That's fine. That is called mortar. The demolding process is much longer but it's totally fine. Make sure you test everything too.
@@upvibecandle I just tested it and i waited 24 hours before demolding them and they fall apart ill try to find Plaster somewhere. I will do my testing.
@@samuilzlatarov2641 This is the newer version of the Alternatives' video. th-cam.com/video/0RJypw_vkoQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HL68fivnrT4jrk9S. Try following the formula here or find an alternative in this video.
How long to wait before sealing hydrocal? Thanks 🙂
Weigh your vessel daily. Once the weight stabilizes you can seal it.
Thank you Sir. Can portland cement use to make candle vessel? I need some help.
You are welcome. No Portland cement needs an aggregate. Here is a video that will help.
th-cam.com/video/aU7LLxgDmbk/w-d-xo.html
Please say me the detailed name (Brand, Product Name) from a good hydrocal that i can buy.
Hydrocal USG
I’m looking to get that red your created in jays formula. I want to make a red and black candle. Can I mix cement all to create my black and then mix the jay formula to create that red then pour together in mold
Here is the red color. amzn.to/3PdGa4l. If you have Cement All I would just use that. My formula is really for those who have no other option.
@@upvibecandle would I get that shade of red you had. That was perfect.
If you follow the same format as I do you should have very similar results. Keep in mind there are always slight differences between viewing a video and seeing something in person.@@aquilgoodman
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Are all these vessels candle safe? Assuming they all need to be sealed, can you use concrete sealer with all these?
Yes they are all safe HOWEVER, you always need to test your own products as each crafter is responsible for their own work. Hope that make sense.
@@upvibecandle yes of course. May I ask what sealer you recommend with each of the materials?
@@jya811 check out my video on sealants. th-cam.com/video/b6w9yE3s7Z4/w-d-xo.html. I haven't tested jesmonite and aqua resin myself but many people use it regularly to sell candles. Hydrostone, my formula and cement all were all sealed with ESF. However, I would imagine any sealer from that video would work but again... test it.
Hi sorry one more question. Did you purchase the AC100 or AC730 from mad mayker? @@upvibecandle
Whoa, I’m going to need to slow down this video, and get my calculator out. 😂 Why is it difficult to get Jesmonite into US? If you look at the chemical compositions of each, would that change you choice; why/why not…. Love how they all came out; colors are nice. Ciao
I love jesmonite but it’s not cost effective for me. If it were I would definitely consider using it.
@@upvibecandle I’m glad you commented on this. People I know using this are in other parts of the world. I heard it was hard to get here. However, I watch what’s cost effective… I am subscribed, and enjoying your videos. Ciao
@@upvibecandle If I were to use jesmonite, which preserver/sealer would you recommend for it? (if it's ESF, do let me know another option incase I can't get my hands on that specific one) :)
@@lanaya.h I truly can't answer that question as I am not a Jesmonite user per se. You should however, test any products you use as there are always variations. Hope that helps.
Thanks for your video
I wanted to know what is that white liquid mixed with jesmoniten or aqua resin?And where can i prepare it
THnak you
It’s a water-based acrylic resin. I got it from MadMayker.
@@upvibecandle thank you
You're too modest - my vote goes to Jaimonite.
Haha!!! Love it.
Can you still do marble affects with hydrocal and thanks for a great video full off information
Absolutely
@@upvibecandle what one would you pick that one are the stone cause the cement use be using we can’t get it in the uk but can get other cement but I don’t know which one would do
@@Owa24 Please ask me another way. I don't understand your question.
Out off them all what one would you pick and some stuff I can’t find cause I’m in the uk but you see the cement can you use any type cause we haven’t got the one you used in video
@@upvibecandleand is there a difference between usg hydrocal and light weight hydrocal
I need subtitles in spanish!
Usa los subtítulo. Hay un botón q dice CC.
Only in inglish😢
Im from Mexico
@@lourdesarriola5813 Lo arreglaré mañana para que puedas verlo con subtítulos en español.
Ok. Agregué los subtítulos en español. Presiona la rueda de ajustes y elige los subtítulos en español. Avísame si quieres que haga eso para otros videos también.
Does adding plaster of Paris weaken the vessel?
If you have Cement All use that and don't add anything. If you can't find a concrete mix then adding plaster will speed up the demolding time. However, the better the plaster the better your results. POP is the lowest form of plaster on the spectrum.
@@upvibecandle thank you very much and really enjoy your vids! Can you possibly be more positive please? You seem a little grumpy!😁
@@beaniehefner3779 Hahaha!!! Love it!