That’s great! Exactly what I was about to do on my truck. So glad to see you do it for reference. Thank you!!! Crazy how on new cars there are no zerks. On my old ‘91 ford I had a zero everywhere and never had to change any parts on suspension.
Thank you for the video. Got the idea the other day and figured there had to be a video. I use a short piece of rubber hose on the drill bit as a drill stop with the drill bit peeking out of the hose by 1/8" to keep from poking the bit inside too far.
A man after my own heart. One thing noticeable is that there is no sign of grease when you drill the hole. This seems to prove they only put a minimal amount of grease in. A further exploration would’ve been to stick a Q-tip in and see if there is any grease detectable. Much thanks for the demo.
Thanks for the vid, might need to do this myself lol. I ordered Ebay ball joints that were pictured with zerk fittings, the ones I received didn't have them, good times.
Been contemplating doing this to a set of tie rods I recently replaced. The original set had zerks, the new ones do not. I think I’ll proceed to do it once things warm up above freezing where I live since I’ll be doing it outside.
That’s awesome! I’m going to do this to a pair that I got before I install them. I’ll take the boot off and run some grease through to get any metal shavings out.
Don't do that! Drill from the bottom instead and let gravity do its thing. You would not be able to "flush" chips as they will never pass thru the top. Refer to this Image and Article. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_joint
Good job on video...the older I get I see..more and more things are made nonrepairable ..technology added to mechanical thing make it for dealership repair .I hate big corporations are cutting out the shade tree mechanics...my next move is to hoarding all my gas vehicles parts that are being phased out...
Use 1/4" x28 Zerks. A #3 cobalt drill bit, a tapered and possibly a BOTTOM tap in 1/4x28. You must WRAP the Zerk threads in PTFE (Teflon) tape before installation.
I like it. The only place where I've changed my mind about grease-able fittings is in universal joints. The purpose of grease fittings is twofold - lubricate the fitting and the grease also helps keep contaminants from getting into the joint and causing wear. From what I understand, the NON-greaseable universal joints are sealed better to keep the grease in and keep contaminants out. With grease-able universal joints there must be openings to the outside world as the grease needs to be constantly refilled which means contaminants must be coming in, too. Just my opinion. I'd have to do a lot more Internet research to find out the difference between grease-able and non-greaseable ball joints before I make a final decision on that.
Thanks for the video! I bought Moog control arms and after 4 months one of the sealed ball joints is squeaking. I was going to inject into the boot with a needle, but this looks like the correct way to do it.
Hi, were you able to put grease in the Moog ball joints? Did it solve the problem or was it just Moog parts quality problem? I was just about to order Moog parts as I come across your comment that got me a little concerned with the QC from Moog
@@mr.gk5 I drilled, tapped and greased mine just like the video, and immediately the squeaking stopped, but just a few days later the clunking started, and it kept getting louder and worse. I checked and found play in the ball joint. It had already gone bad. I also found my passenger one had a tiny bit of movement in the ball joint as well with a little clunk that I'd been hearing for over a month not knowing it was the ball joint. I replaced them with Mevotech control arms with greaseable ball joints, and greased them upon installation, and so far so good. It's only been a month. Time will tell.
@@JonathanDavid374 seems like it's not MOOG QC problem then , just a coincidence that your ball joints went. Anyway, nipples are for preventative maintenance, there's nothing you can do if it'd already gone bad. I think I'll give MOOG parts a try.
salim metin A tap threads the hole, nothing to do with using the correct size drill (as long as you use the correct size drill for the tap). Unless you have a self tapping grease fitting, you still have to tap the hole no matter what size drill you use.
@@dvader3000 Not worth doing as the grease would not do anything!!! The grease needs to be in the housing not the overflow seal. Cut apart a ball joint and you will see what I am talking about.
Is that true, that Moog is crap now? I just bought Moog control arms, and 4 months later the sealed ball joint is squeaking. I thought Moog was the best. So what's a good brand to buy now?
Just an idea - attach a magnet to the drill bit and tap to collect more of the metal chips
Now You give me a very good idea on how to grease a tie rod without a zerk fitting. Thanks sir❤
That’s great! Exactly what I was about to do on my truck. So glad to see you do it for reference. Thank you!!! Crazy how on new cars there are no zerks. On my old ‘91 ford I had a zero everywhere and never had to change any parts on suspension.
This is exactly what i was thinking about doing. Thanks for sharing and making me less nervous.
Thank you for the video. Got the idea the other day and figured there had to be a video. I use a short piece of rubber hose on the drill bit as a drill stop with the drill bit peeking out of the hose by 1/8" to keep from poking the bit inside too far.
Oh, I LIKE that idea!! Gonna use that idea tomorrow!
A man after my own heart. One thing noticeable is that there is no sign of grease when you drill the hole. This seems to prove they only put a minimal amount of grease in. A further exploration would’ve been to stick a Q-tip in and see if there is any grease detectable. Much thanks for the demo.
Pro Tip: some grease on the drill and/or tap will help collect the shavings.
Not a PRO tip! Grease would be counterproductive. Gravity cleared all the chips. I used gease 20 years ago.
Thanks for the vid, might need to do this myself lol. I ordered Ebay ball joints that were pictured with zerk fittings, the ones I received didn't have them, good times.
Been contemplating doing this to a set of tie rods I recently replaced. The original set had zerks, the new ones do not. I think I’ll proceed to do it once things warm up above freezing where I live since I’ll be doing it outside.
How did it go for you ?
Thanks for this video I was considering doing this to my Ford Ranger
Use an angled grease nipple and it'll be easy to grease without removing the wheels.
Quality content, thanks for uploading.
I just did this but I used a m 6 drill bit and 1/4-28 zerk with red loctight and they self tapped in. No need to use a tap. Just be careful!
That’s awesome! I’m going to do this to a pair that I got before I install them. I’ll take the boot off and run some grease through to get any metal shavings out.
Don't do that! Drill from the bottom instead and let gravity do its thing. You would not be able to "flush" chips as they will never pass thru the top. Refer to this Image and Article. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_joint
Very nice mod. Im gonna have to try this out. Thank you for posting🤙
Good job on video...the older I get I see..more and more things are made nonrepairable ..technology added to mechanical thing make it for dealership repair .I hate big corporations are cutting out the shade tree mechanics...my next move is to hoarding all my gas vehicles parts that are being phased out...
Use 1/4" x28 Zerks. A #3 cobalt drill bit, a tapered and possibly a BOTTOM tap in 1/4x28. You must WRAP the Zerk threads in PTFE (Teflon) tape before installation.
I like it. The only place where I've changed my mind about grease-able fittings is in universal joints. The purpose of grease fittings is twofold - lubricate the fitting and the grease also helps keep contaminants from getting into the joint and causing wear. From what I understand, the NON-greaseable universal joints are sealed better to keep the grease in and keep contaminants out. With grease-able universal joints there must be openings to the outside world as the grease needs to be constantly refilled which means contaminants must be coming in, too. Just my opinion. I'd have to do a lot more Internet research to find out the difference between grease-able and non-greaseable ball joints before I make a final decision on that.
Funny on my tundra and Tacoma the only grease fittings are on the driveshaft u Joints. I’m thinking About needle adapter to do the ball joints
heck i just use the zerk as the tap. Good video
Absolutely works on the thin plates
Thanks for the video! I bought Moog control arms and after 4 months one of the sealed ball joints is squeaking. I was going to inject into the boot with a needle, but this looks like the correct way to do it.
Hi, were you able to put grease in the Moog ball joints? Did it solve the problem or was it just Moog parts quality problem? I was just about to order Moog parts as I come across your comment that got me a little concerned with the QC from Moog
@@mr.gk5 I drilled, tapped and greased mine just like the video, and immediately the squeaking stopped, but just a few days later the clunking started, and it kept getting louder and worse. I checked and found play in the ball joint. It had already gone bad. I also found my passenger one had a tiny bit of movement in the ball joint as well with a little clunk that I'd been hearing for over a month not knowing it was the ball joint. I replaced them with Mevotech control arms with greaseable ball joints, and greased them upon installation, and so far so good. It's only been a month. Time will tell.
@@JonathanDavid374 seems like it's not MOOG QC problem then , just a coincidence that your ball joints went. Anyway, nipples are for preventative maintenance, there's nothing you can do if it'd already gone bad. I think I'll give MOOG parts a try.
bravo! thanks for teaching us
is it possible to drill/tap the top ball joint also?
yes
I like it and am going to do it . Thanks man
Thanks mate. Blessings
Good job. Is it necessary to tab? Won't be good enaugh to just drill correct diameter?
If you have a high quality grease fitting just drilling will work, if the fitting is cheap(like most) bad Idea.
salim metin A tap threads the hole, nothing to do with using the correct size drill (as long as you use the correct size drill for the tap). Unless you have a self tapping grease fitting, you still have to tap the hole no matter what size drill you use.
Have you tried the needle injector tips for your grease gun?
I have needles yes. If you are implying piercing the boot, No, that is a terrible idea.
@@ralfsautomotive they say as soon as you inject the grease clean around it and add permatex silicon sealer.
Might be worth trying it
@@dvader3000 Not worth doing as the grease would not do anything!!! The grease needs to be in the housing not the overflow seal. Cut apart a ball joint and you will see what I am talking about.
My UPPER ball joints came with grease fittings that tapped their own threads upon installation. Why did you choose to tap threads?
A lot of ball joints don't come with fittings and are not tapped at all.
Thank you 😊
the problem is nobody looks to see if the new car comes with zirks just a warrantee
Good stuff
Would it be a good ideo to put Teflon tape on threads ?
no need it will seal as is
Great info especially if you can extend the OEM part life & not have to used junk Chinese aftermarket crap like Moog is now.
Is that true, that Moog is crap now? I just bought Moog control arms, and 4 months later the sealed ball joint is squeaking. I thought Moog was the best. So what's a good brand to buy now?
Same question. Didn't even realize it's made in China?
I have a truck that has zerks on one side of the vehicle and none on the other side of the vehicle.
Makes no sense.
Makes Perfect sense LOL one is Aftermarket the other is stock type.
any other ways to grease a sealed joint or anything thatll need to be greased
No, as they are made to not be serviced.
Needles that pierce the boot. It works
It's easier with garage and hoist!
I've been thinking about doing this, but I'm concerned about the damage that metal chips would do inside the joint.
That would be allot better than no grease
It is not an engine it is a ball joint the chip will find a place to settle down
Use a magnet 🧲 on drill bit & a shop vac . That will do it
U fixed grease fitting, next making ur own boots when they fail!!!?
Boots can be purchased as replacement parts
@@ralfsautomotive But you have to take the joint out to put them on right?