I had that problem on my SEC. Mechanic found C/O off. Adjusted to factory specs. Seemed to stall hesitate , stumble when accelerating . Driving like a dream now, good luck!
Mike, I used to drive Mercedes Buses of this era, they were unbreakable, to a point! BTW, in the UK it was always an electrical fault. Interestingly check out my local news anchor, his name is Fred Dinenage, he hosted a TV show called 'How!' in the 1970's/ 80's. You are very watchable. Much love from the U.K
@@MonkeyWrenchMike It's cool, much love from the U.K, I love old cars, they have given joy & expectation before, but , after the faff some people make them live on.
There is a kickdown switch under the gas pedal. Sometimes, it sticks down causing your symptoms. Check if it's down. If so, just pull it up or unplug it as I did!
I wish you luck Mike and hope you fix the car soon. Lots of good advice from viewers. I hope you have the time to look into them before your move to Tulsa, or else you may have to tow the 560SEC to your new home (might be sensible to do that even if you do get it running). Best wishes.
Hey Mike. First thing you need to do is check your transmission fluid level after the car has fully warmed up. Make sure it’s within spec. Next if that checks out OK you need to verify your fuel pressure -rent a gauge set from the auto parts store for free. You need to test it with a load on the engine not in park. It may be adequate actually in park but when you put a lid on the engine in reverse or drive it has to loyal pressure. I don’t think you have an ignition issue based on what you were describing in with the video shoot. And I don’t think you have an issue with the air intake… Like a MAF . After that you need to check vacuum on this car - it is mission critical for proper operation. Once you get this car fully operational and mobile and stopping safely like it should have when it was new, then would be a good time to start playing with the accessories… What you also showed in the video is very reminiscent of a vehicle with clogged catalytic converter‘s… One way to test this is to remove the O2 sensor before the cat and see if it runs better. You usually have very odd sounds with a clogged cat because the air is trying to escape through whatever openings it can find in the broken catalyst
well, I finally found a channel with someone who has a CARCAINE addiction as myself...I have a 560sec and I was told it has a lifter knock, so I'm dreading, also a w215, and 300ce and a 600sl and a w140cl....take your time and just go through it...yoi have fuel for test and just go through it like Mr Bergasma in Washington...mercedes source really good guy
My husband had an old truck that acted just like your car and removed the gas tank and cleaned it out and replaced the filter. I remember him and our son did a lot of cussing.
The transmission behaviour could be down to the adjustment of the mechanical linkages between the accelerator cable and the gearbox. The unwillingness to pull could just be a dire need for a full service and tune up, but I would also suggest clogged catalysts as a possibility, does it feel like the S-Class did before you changed that cats on that? I would suggest you check the A/C system carefully, on a 1990 car it might have an R12 system still. If it has been retro-fitted for R134a then you've lucked out big time as that is usually an expensive job... As a lot of the electrics that didn't seem to be working are on the centre console it would be well worth having a good check of the fuse and relay boxes as a number of those circuits could be sharing fuses. One fuse down could equal a lot of circuits out... As I thought, it does look like the oil pressure sending unit on the engine is starting to come back to life as it was starting to show more likely readings on the gauge for an engine with a fair few miles on it, hot, at idle. The non-working odometer is probably a similar issue to what often afflicts older Volvos with mechanical odometers. One of the plastic cogs wears down and effectively loses its teeth so it stops driving the reels round. It is a cheap and easy fix, I understand that stronger cogs are available from specialists and actually fixing it is a fairly simple, but very fiddly job as all the parts you are working with doing it are small and very inclined to try and make a bid for freedom...
I owned a 87 560sl & 9 other Mercedes S types and have the S550 now, try taking a can of seafoam and pour it in a half tank of premium gas (10 gallons or so), run it for about 15 minutes and let it sit over night or longer then drive that tank down at least a quarter tank this will clean all of the system. If after that you still have good rev when in park but no power in drive the pressure regulator may be weak, it cost about $300 for that car at “Rockauto” it’ll be on the end of the injector rail. the Seafoam will not fix the pressure regulator the diaphragm in it is rubber and maybe weak from age it will dry and crack from just seating. It also can be a vacuum leak especially if it’s connected to the pressure regulator your best bet is to replace all the vacuum lines that you can one at a time is the easy way. there’s about three different sizes of hoses that you will need to get. your car will run really good after you do that even if you don’t think it has a leak.
I had an 89 560 sec with similar issues. The hard changing might be due to vaccume lines. Mine also benifited greatly from a gearbox and diff flush, that lasted me a few 1000km but eventually had the gearbox rebuilt and it solved everything. Keep an eye on the propshaft dognut and center bearing, too much banging into gear eventually eats through these.
The 560SEC doesn’t have limp home mode. That came later with the electronic controlled transmissions. Beckautosound will let you turn in your radio and send you a reconditioned one for not too much if you wanna stay stock. The cluster can be pulled and the speedometer/odometer can be rebuilt or you can buy used for not too much. I’m think that the vacuum system is leaking somewhere. When I had a 300SDL a vacuum hose came loose and it exhibited all the symptoms you’re seeing
Vacuum modulator , bowden cable (kick down cable) tighten the cable much more put very little play mines has really no play adjustment . Throttle cable adjustment, remove the fuel distributor with maf sensor and clean it thoroughly, throttle postitionsensor . Check your kickdown solenoid is activating. You need a gauge btw to adjust the modulator but if its nerve turn the modulator 1.5 turns anti clockwise and see what happens (anti clockwise softens shifts) I recommend adjusting the bowdencable and modulator (upgrade the modulator if it's the old style they go bad over time) check all vacuum connections. O2 sensors might be gukked up aswell could clean it or replace it's quite inexpensive and dump some injector cleaner and drive the car harshly (high revs kickdown)to get the gunk out of the injectors.
Mike , it’s just an idea as i had a W202 C180 Class on a 1995 . I found out that it was my spark plugs that were at fault . Would rev ok in park but as soon as you put her in drive there was nothing . Hope this helps x
Might want to check the fuel filter in your one video you showed it was pretty dirty it might have clogged up again it might clear up when you're running a couple more times
Mike, I think you have some engine problems, maybe the KE Jetronic Control Unit is not working probably or some of the sensors. Reving the engine in the idle does not mean she will have power. The first thing you do on these M117 engines is to get a multimeter, put it in duty cycle mode and see what it is reading between pin 2 an 3 in the diagnoses box sitting on the left fender. It is round and about 1 or 2 inches in diameter. When the car is idling you should read about 50%, going up and down, if it is a fixed at for example 60% or 80% and something is wrong. Every percentage stands for a fault code. The harshness in the transmission is a wrong pressure, you can adjust this easily. But first check the duty cycle. If this shows the correct numbers you can dig into other stuff.
Odometer is not working. Sounds like you still have a fuel distribution problem. I would so do a seafoam treatment on it. Also sounds like you have a vacuum issue of some sort so you need to check your cats and your vacuum lines. Great video is always keep up the good work
Okay, this is what we know. The first fuel related maintenance was two pumps and a filter. Those wee replaced because car would not idle. Now car will idle after changing the tank filter as well. We noticed large accumulations of debris in the fuel lines and tank filter on the second job, most recent filter and fittings change. Since we see high vacuum when in gear and full throttle, this suggests that the throttle is indeed open therefore dropping manifold pressure. I suspect that upon the second filter and fuel line change, contamination got into the new secondary filter and or new fuel pumps. Check fuel pressure at carb inlet and consult MB specification. I am willing to bet a full cup of coffee that engine is starving for fuel... still.
Check the trans fuild, if it's low fill it, I had this problem to.. I was sure it was something major like a converter, but it was just a lack of trans fuild. The person that owned before me just changed the trans to and could figur out what was wrong, $10 fix for me..
Put the gear shifter in manual low and see if it accelerates. Manual low bypasses a few things and is like putting it in limp mode. If it won't accelerate properly in low gear, it's not a transmission issue. My next step would be checking fuel and air delivery. There are no misfires, so you have spark at the right place and time. My bet would be some crap from the bad fuel has plugged your fuel distributor.
I would put a fuel pressure meter on it and tape it to the window and drive around the block. If it was just a clogged cat the car wouldn’t be bucking. My next guess would be the coil.
Since it will rev up when not in gear but not when in drive it should be in the transmission might double check wires I would think? 🤔🤔🤔 But again I'm not a mechanic 😁😁😁 but love your channel
Could be an engine problem since it has no power. maybe low fuel pressure? Sucking trash off the bottom of the tank?? could be why fuel sending unit isn't working. But then again it's barking the tires changing gears. I don't know. I wish i could help.
You shouldn't have let the fuel get so low you have more than likely started picking up all the rubbish from the bottom of the tank. I'm very surprised that it kept on going at all😩🇦🇺 New fuel pumps are very very expensive😛
The Odometer did not work, last 2 numbers were 23 when you left the house and when you got back, still 23. Low trans fluid? A hose, cable or wire not connected from the swap? If you could get a hold of Alex at LegitStreetCars on youtube.......
That model didn’t have LHM (Limp Mode). It’s a hydraulic transmission with pressure actuated and vacuum modulated shift control. A few things worth considering. When you R&R the transmission you disconnected cables and throttle control linkage. Re-check everything you reassembled based on reliable literature, like a factory shop manual. Correct as needed and test again. If everything checks out (I have suspicions.) then pull your plugs and see what the plugs have to say. I think you put in new but any extreme condition should leave some indication. I expect its going lean, but always best to find evidence that confirms or contradicts. I’m going to guess it’s going lean when you try to accelerate under load. I saw some serious sludge in your fuel system and that means chances are very high your tank is a mess. You can pull the tank screen and see just how bad it is. (Too bad you put 8 gal in. You’ll have to drain it to pull the tank screen.) I’m going to assume the tank is a mess. (Gas gauge didn’t look healthy either. Sender in tank may also be sludged up) Don’t waste time and money trying to clean it with home brewed methods. They have their uses but in your case, pull the tank, tank it to radiator/ tank shop that cleans them, and maybe they’ll put a rust protecting coat on the inside. Make sure there’s nothing mechanical left in the tank or coating will ruin it. Maybe you wonder why you should bother since it improved when you replaced fuel pump and I think filter. All that sludge will work it’s way into the accumulator, new filter, pumps, fuel pressure regulators, injection air regulator, the EHA... all way to the injectors and you’ll be back where started or worse. Speaking of injectors, did you pull them, clean and reseal? I don’t recall seeing that. If not it will come up later, when you begin seeing more normal acceleration under load. One step at a time. Some of the best words of advice along with work carefully and when a thought hits like, “This will be easy to do.” Stop and readjust your thought. How many times have we said it’s easy, then arrived at the “I effed that up!” moment?
Mike - sounds good. What was the condition of the old tank screen? I doubt the power loss under load has anything to do with the spark plugs. To meet the demand of more acceleration under load, the fuel injection responds to larger throttle demand by increasing the combined amount of fuel/air in the correct ratio. Based on the vacuum gauge in your instrument panel, the gauge indicated maximum when you said the accelerator pedal was floored. That indicates large air flow into the engine. That’s good. You were not getting sufficient fuel flow or you would have seen good acceleration. This is why I suggested going back to the work you did to check linkage and cables. If they check out you’ll have to dive deeper into the CIS. Check fuel pressure using a pressure gauge at the fuel pressure regulator, and note the readings. The Air Flow Potentiometer is a part controlled by the Air Flow plate. When the air flow plate opens it changes the setting of the Air Flow Potentiometer. This tells the ECU how much fuel to supply at the injectors. That may need checking. Related to this is the Over Voltage Protection relay OVP, but I’d check the Air Flow Potentiometer. That’s a strong candidate. Your model should have a connector, probably round with a protective cap, where Codes are read. But you can use a basic multi-meter to take test readings. You’ll have to run this down online. Good luck and stay with it! You’re providing a lot of help for Mercedes owners and enthusiasts with older models!
Hi Mike, i wonder how much you have to pay to register a 560?Where i live in belgium,i had to pay 1200 euro to register my 2001 clk 200 compressor.Even when i register it for 1 day.We have to pay roadtax by enginesize.A 560 would be around 4000 euro for one year. Keep making your cool video’s!
the story puts the blames on four defects: 1- injectors 2- timing (injection and/or spark) 3- Transmission 4- the egzost system (catalitic convertor plugged - hould hear strange howling whiffing noises at the tailpipe)
It is not revving good in park. I had a 89 560 sec and it was very fast and very smooth. If the engine is not running right, the vacuum is not correct, so the trans will not function properly!
Mike, go and find one of those guys who buy old salvaged Copart classics and rebuilds them - they are all geniuses when it comes to making junkers run like new. Just get on TH-cam and search for "rebuild", then pick an older guy who has a sense of humor - (might as well have some fun while you watch what they do)... 😁
Hey Mike I know you’ve replaced the filters and the pumps previously however I’d still chase down and check that side also It looks like it’s starving for fuel Something many have dislodged and be blocking the fuel flow Stranger things have happened Just a thought
Could it be that the fuel that was already in the tank had been in there that long that it is now contaminated? I only know how to drive cars, not repair them I'm afraid, sorry. I'm sure some really nice subscriber will tell you exactly what is wrong.
As I commented on another one of these videos, that SEC was not well cared for. Definitely an abused vehicle. The climate control system alone can cost thousands to fix. It can get out of hand real fast. You have received lots of good advice from other commenters. That economy gauge is crazy off! Yikes. I'm sure you'll go through it all. I wish you luck. I purchased my Euro 500 SEC from the original owner last year. Thankfully it was a very well cared for and I recently had it serviced at Pierre Hedary's in Florida. There is no one better.
My heart sank for you when the old girl played up Mike, there's plenty of suggestions on here on to what could be going on, maybe a case for outside help but that's up to you but look on the bright side she moved under her own steam. Chin up old bean it could be worse Trump could get a second term. As always Mike keep the sun shining and don't let the bastard's grind you down 🌄🌄🌄🙏. Gary...... England 🇬🇧
I had that problem on my SEC.
Mechanic found C/O off.
Adjusted to factory specs.
Seemed to stall hesitate , stumble when accelerating .
Driving like a dream now, good luck!
C/O?? What’s that?
@@MonkeyWrenchMike
Air/fuel mixture, found on Benz forum.
I will check specifics with my mechanic.
Mike, I used to drive Mercedes Buses of this era, they were unbreakable, to a point!
BTW, in the UK it was always an electrical fault.
Interestingly check out my local news anchor, his name is Fred Dinenage, he hosted a TV show called 'How!' in the 1970's/ 80's.
You are very watchable. Much love from the U.K
Aww thanks !!!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike It's cool, much love from the U.K, I love old cars, they have given joy & expectation before, but , after the faff some people make them live on.
There is a kickdown switch under the gas pedal. Sometimes, it sticks down causing your symptoms. Check if it's down. If so, just pull it up or unplug it as I did!
Will do! Thanks!
I wish you luck Mike and hope you fix the car soon. Lots of good advice from viewers. I hope you have the time to look into them before your move to Tulsa, or else you may have to tow the 560SEC to your new home (might be sensible to do that even if you do get it running). Best wishes.
Hey Mike. First thing you need to do is check your transmission fluid level after the car has fully warmed up. Make sure it’s within spec. Next if that checks out OK you need to verify your fuel pressure -rent a gauge set from the auto parts store for free. You need to test it with a load on the engine not in park. It may be adequate actually in park but when you put a lid on the engine in reverse or drive it has to loyal pressure. I don’t think you have an ignition issue based on what you were describing in with the video shoot. And I don’t think you have an issue with the air intake… Like a MAF . After that you need to check vacuum on this car - it is mission critical for proper operation.
Once you get this car fully operational and mobile and stopping safely like it should have when it was new, then would be a good time to start playing with the accessories…
What you also showed in the video is very reminiscent of a vehicle with clogged catalytic converter‘s… One way to test this is to remove the O2 sensor before the cat and see if it runs better. You usually have very odd sounds with a clogged cat because the air is trying to escape through whatever openings it can find in the broken catalyst
Great advice. I had another car with clogged cars. It would just die after a few seconds. I’ll check vacuum!!
well, I finally found a channel with someone who has a CARCAINE addiction as myself...I have a 560sec and I was told it has a lifter knock, so I'm dreading, also a w215, and 300ce and a 600sl and a w140cl....take your time and just go through it...yoi have fuel for test and just go through it like Mr Bergasma in Washington...mercedes source really good guy
Kent is great! A fantastic resource. Sounds you and I have similar tastes in cars!
bigtime, so far my addiction has me at 21 cars, I'm currently in rehab...lol, I might relapse!!!!
Trans fluid level off??
Checked it. Level is good.
TV / Kickdown cable?
My husband had an old truck that acted just like your car and removed the gas tank and cleaned it out and replaced the filter. I remember him and our son did a lot of cussing.
The transmission behaviour could be down to the adjustment of the mechanical linkages between the accelerator cable and the gearbox. The unwillingness to pull could just be a dire need for a full service and tune up, but I would also suggest clogged catalysts as a possibility, does it feel like the S-Class did before you changed that cats on that? I would suggest you check the A/C system carefully, on a 1990 car it might have an R12 system still. If it has been retro-fitted for R134a then you've lucked out big time as that is usually an expensive job...
As a lot of the electrics that didn't seem to be working are on the centre console it would be well worth having a good check of the fuse and relay boxes as a number of those circuits could be sharing fuses. One fuse down could equal a lot of circuits out...
As I thought, it does look like the oil pressure sending unit on the engine is starting to come back to life as it was starting to show more likely readings on the gauge for an engine with a fair few miles on it, hot, at idle. The non-working odometer is probably a similar issue to what often afflicts older Volvos with mechanical odometers. One of the plastic cogs wears down and effectively loses its teeth so it stops driving the reels round. It is a cheap and easy fix, I understand that stronger cogs are available from specialists and actually fixing it is a fairly simple, but very fiddly job as all the parts you are working with doing it are small and very inclined to try and make a bid for freedom...
Start with the east stuff. Throttle linkage, main fuel filter, micro filter at the inlet to the fuel distributor.
I feel for you Mike,but it's nice to see things don't work first time for you,like they never do for me :)
Mike there is a product out by Star Brite which is a gas stabilizer . Keeps gas stabile for up 2 years . It's a gas stabilizer .
I owned a 87 560sl & 9 other Mercedes S types and have the S550 now, try taking a can of seafoam and pour it in a half tank of premium gas (10 gallons or so), run it for about 15 minutes and let it sit over night or longer then drive that tank down at least a quarter tank this will clean all of the system. If after that you still have good rev when in park but no power in drive the pressure regulator may be weak, it cost about $300 for that car at “Rockauto” it’ll be on the end of the injector rail. the Seafoam will not fix the pressure regulator the diaphragm in it is rubber and maybe weak from age it will dry and crack from just seating. It also can be a vacuum leak especially if it’s connected to the pressure regulator your best bet is to replace all the vacuum lines that you can one at a time is the easy way. there’s about three different sizes of hoses that you will need to get. your car will run really good after you do that even if you don’t think it has a leak.
Thanks! That’s great information. I’ve always want the W221!!
I hear Randy has a really good running and driving Caprice for sale! Just kidding. Or maybe not! Good video Mike.
If that vacuum gauge is accurate is showing you have a vacuum leak somewhere which may affect performance under load. Is it smooth when idling?
I had an 89 560 sec with similar issues. The hard changing might be due to vaccume lines.
Mine also benifited greatly from a gearbox and diff flush, that lasted me a few 1000km but eventually had the gearbox rebuilt and it solved everything.
Keep an eye on the propshaft dognut and center bearing, too much banging into gear eventually eats through these.
The 560SEC doesn’t have limp home mode. That came later with the electronic controlled transmissions.
Beckautosound will let you turn in your radio and send you a reconditioned one for not too much if you wanna stay stock. The cluster can be pulled and the speedometer/odometer can be rebuilt or you can buy used for not too much.
I’m think that the vacuum system is leaking somewhere. When I had a 300SDL a vacuum hose came loose and it exhibited all the symptoms you’re seeing
Vacuum modulator , bowden cable (kick down cable) tighten the cable much more put very little play mines has really no play adjustment . Throttle cable adjustment, remove the fuel distributor with maf sensor and clean it thoroughly, throttle postitionsensor . Check your kickdown solenoid is activating. You need a gauge btw to adjust the modulator but if its nerve turn the modulator 1.5 turns anti clockwise and see what happens (anti clockwise softens shifts) I recommend adjusting the bowdencable and modulator (upgrade the modulator if it's the old style they go bad over time) check all vacuum connections. O2 sensors might be gukked up aswell could clean it or replace it's quite inexpensive and dump some injector cleaner and drive the car harshly (high revs kickdown)to get the gunk out of the injectors.
Great advice! Thanks...
It is just shifting ahead of time, check bowden cable, adjust/repair or replace accordingly ..
A good way to test if it is the cat though is to remove an O2 sensor and see if it runs better
Mike , it’s just an idea as i had a W202 C180 Class on a 1995 .
I found out that it was my spark plugs that were at fault .
Would rev ok in park but as soon as you put her in drive there was nothing .
Hope this helps x
I’ll check it out! Thanks!
Might want to check the fuel filter in your one video you showed it was pretty dirty it might have clogged up again it might clear up when you're running a couple more times
Might want to check the fluid when it's warm and see if it's a little low
Have you done the cats on this car? My caddy did the same thing. Ran fine with no load then no power
Not yet... but think it could be the cats.
If the bolts are not too bad undo the cats and see if things improve.
did you put fluid on the new transmition????
Ha! Yep!!
My first guess is catalytic converters, also possible junk from the tank and the tank sock got into the new filter and pumps.
Mike, I think you have some engine problems, maybe the KE Jetronic Control Unit is not working probably or some of the sensors.
Reving the engine in the idle does not mean she will have power.
The first thing you do on these M117 engines is to get a multimeter, put it in duty cycle mode and see what it is reading between pin 2 an 3 in the diagnoses box sitting on the left fender. It is round and about 1 or 2 inches in diameter.
When the car is idling you should read about 50%, going up and down, if it is a fixed at for example 60% or 80% and something is wrong.
Every percentage stands for a fault code.
The harshness in the transmission is a wrong pressure, you can adjust this easily. But first check the duty cycle.
If this shows the correct numbers you can dig into other stuff.
Check the gas pedal links to the injection(im talking about the links that transfers the movement of the gas pedal)I had similar problem with my w124.
Transmission probably needs a conductor plate. HAve you touched the K-jet fuel distributor? If the flapper ain't movin, it won't make any power.
Haven’t touched the conductor plate yet... will look into that.
Odometer is not working. Sounds like you still have a fuel distribution problem. I would so do a seafoam treatment on it. Also sounds like you have a vacuum issue of some sort so you need to check your cats and your vacuum lines. Great video is always keep up the good work
Okay, this is what we know. The first fuel related maintenance was two pumps and a filter. Those wee replaced because car would not idle. Now car will idle after changing the tank filter as well. We noticed large accumulations of debris in the fuel lines and tank filter on the second job, most recent filter and fittings change. Since we see high vacuum when in gear and full throttle, this suggests that the throttle is indeed open therefore dropping manifold pressure. I suspect that upon the second filter and fuel line change, contamination got into the new secondary filter and or new fuel pumps. Check fuel pressure at carb inlet and consult MB specification. I am willing to bet a full cup of coffee that engine is starving for fuel... still.
not high vacuum, we see low vacuum high needle deflection. my bad. In short, engine is bogging due to lack of fuel.
I’ll check that out. Thank you!
Replace your fuses with copper ones, and clean ALL contacts in the fuse box!
Mike the Catalytic Converter may be stopped up if it has one. That would make it have no power. I think the speedometer was working.
But the ODOMETER was NOT. Sonny(CT)
Check the trans fuild, if it's low fill it, I had this problem to.. I was sure it was something major like a converter, but it was just a lack of trans fuild. The person that owned before me just changed the trans to and could figur out what was wrong, $10 fix for me..
Love the show. Hard not to cuss with these old cars though. Is this one your favorite Mercedes?
All time favorite was my C43!
I believe your car might have R12 freon if it wasn't converted. Also the antenna up/down button only works when the radio is on.
Put the gear shifter in manual low and see if it accelerates. Manual low bypasses a few things and is like putting it in limp mode. If it won't accelerate properly in low gear, it's not a transmission issue. My next step would be checking fuel and air delivery. There are no misfires, so you have spark at the right place and time. My bet would be some crap from the bad fuel has plugged your fuel distributor.
Also all the gunk of the gas tank maybe has blocked your fuel filter
I would put a fuel pressure meter on it and tape it to the window and drive around the block. If it was just a clogged cat the car wouldn’t be bucking. My next guess would be the coil.
Mike, check the linkage cable.
Since it will rev up when not in gear but not when in drive it should be in the transmission might double check wires I would think? 🤔🤔🤔 But again I'm not a mechanic 😁😁😁 but love your channel
If after transoil and filter change you still have the same problem than is the torque converte which need to be change.
Vacuum System - get ready to replace a myriad of tiny tiny vacuum lines...
Guessing it's sucking up all the gunk in the tank since you're under E.
Randy , All cars draw fuel from the bottom of the tank all the time. makes no difference what level the fuel is
Could be an engine problem since it has no power. maybe low fuel pressure? Sucking trash off the bottom of the tank?? could be why fuel sending unit isn't working. But then again it's barking the tires changing gears. I don't know. I wish i could help.
Me too! Lol
That guy overtook you across a double yellow line!
Vacuum leak? Maf and throttle maybe? Fuel injectors? Btw when’s the ML coming out? Would love to see it
Should get it Monday!
You shouldn't have let the fuel get so low you have more than likely started picking up all the rubbish from the bottom of the tank. I'm very surprised that it kept on going at all😩🇦🇺 New fuel pumps are very very expensive😛
The Odometer did not work, last 2 numbers were 23 when you left the house and when you got back, still 23. Low trans fluid? A hose, cable or wire not connected from the swap? If you could get a hold of Alex at LegitStreetCars on youtube.......
Good eye on that odometer!!
That model didn’t have LHM (Limp Mode). It’s a hydraulic transmission with pressure actuated and vacuum modulated shift control.
A few things worth considering. When you R&R the transmission you disconnected cables and throttle control linkage. Re-check everything you reassembled based on reliable literature, like a factory shop manual. Correct as needed and test again.
If everything checks out (I have suspicions.) then pull your plugs and see what the plugs have to say. I think you put in new but any extreme condition should leave some indication. I expect its going lean, but always best to find evidence that confirms or contradicts.
I’m going to guess it’s going lean when you try to accelerate under load. I saw some serious sludge in your fuel system and that means chances are very high your tank is a mess. You can pull the tank screen and see just how bad it is. (Too bad you put 8 gal in. You’ll have to drain it to pull the tank screen.) I’m going to assume the tank is a mess. (Gas gauge didn’t look healthy either. Sender in tank may also be sludged up) Don’t waste time and money trying to clean it with home brewed methods. They have their uses but in your case, pull the tank, tank it to radiator/ tank shop that cleans them, and maybe they’ll put a rust protecting coat on the inside. Make sure there’s nothing mechanical left in the tank or coating will ruin it.
Maybe you wonder why you should bother since it improved when you replaced fuel pump and I think filter. All that sludge will work it’s way into the accumulator, new filter, pumps, fuel pressure regulators, injection air regulator, the EHA... all way to the injectors and you’ll be back where started or worse.
Speaking of injectors, did you pull them, clean and reseal? I don’t recall seeing that. If not it will come up later, when you begin seeing more normal acceleration under load.
One step at a time. Some of the best words of advice along with work carefully and when a thought hits like, “This will be easy to do.” Stop and readjust your thought. How many times have we said it’s easy, then arrived at the “I effed that up!” moment?
I already replaced the fuel strainer in the tank and fuel lines. I’ll check linkages. Replacing spark plugs soon.
Mike - sounds good. What was the condition of the old tank screen?
I doubt the power loss under load has anything to do with the spark plugs. To meet the demand of more acceleration under load, the fuel injection responds to larger throttle demand by increasing the combined amount of fuel/air in the correct ratio. Based on the vacuum gauge in your instrument panel, the gauge indicated maximum when you said the accelerator pedal was floored. That indicates large air flow into the engine. That’s good. You were not getting sufficient fuel flow or you would have seen good acceleration. This is why I suggested going back to the work you did to check linkage and cables. If they check out you’ll have to dive deeper into the CIS. Check fuel pressure using a pressure gauge at the fuel pressure regulator, and note the readings.
The Air Flow Potentiometer is a part controlled by the Air Flow plate. When the air flow plate opens it changes the setting of the Air Flow Potentiometer. This tells the ECU how much fuel to supply at the injectors. That may need checking. Related to this is the Over Voltage Protection relay OVP, but I’d check the Air Flow Potentiometer. That’s a strong candidate.
Your model should have a connector, probably round with a protective cap, where Codes are read. But you can use a basic multi-meter to take test readings. You’ll have to run this down online.
Good luck and stay with it! You’re providing a lot of help for Mercedes owners and enthusiasts with older models!
Hi Mike, i wonder how much you have to pay to register a 560?Where i live in belgium,i had to pay 1200 euro to register my 2001 clk 200 compressor.Even when i register it for 1 day.We have to pay roadtax by enginesize.A 560 would be around 4000 euro for one year.
Keep making your cool video’s!
Ouch! That’s very expensive! To register the SEC it was less than $100. Gas here is about $2.90 for a gallon of premium, too!
the story puts the blames on four defects:
1- injectors
2- timing (injection and/or spark)
3- Transmission
4- the egzost system (catalitic convertor plugged - hould hear strange howling whiffing noises at the tailpipe)
It is not revving good in park. I had a 89 560 sec and it was very fast and very smooth. If the engine is not running right, the vacuum is not correct, so the trans will not function properly!
Thanks!
Yeah the odometer work it may not have enough transmission fluid
Clogged fuel filter.The air conding needs R-12 freon.
The a/c was converted. There’s a sticker.
Mike, go and find one of those guys who buy old salvaged Copart classics and rebuilds them - they are all geniuses when it comes to making junkers run like new. Just get on TH-cam and search for "rebuild", then pick an older guy who has a sense of humor - (might as well have some fun while you watch what they do)... 😁
Its A V12 Right?
Hahahahahahhaa!!!!
Hey Mike what is your software that you use to edit your videos?
I use Videoshop and my iPhone. Not difficult at all!
Hey Mike
I know you’ve replaced the filters and the pumps previously however I’d still chase down and check that side also
It looks like it’s starving for fuel
Something many have dislodged and be blocking the fuel flow
Stranger things have happened
Just a thought
Lack of fuel. Fuel filter?
New filters!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike ok good luck
I think it’s the torque converter. If you have no vacuum leaks, it’s definitely the torque converter.
Your oil pressure gauge is not functioning properly
That is scary when you refer to yourself in the third person lolol
Fuel pressure regulator is not good
look mokey mike is a member of the 35 mile club
Odometer does not work Mike . I am wondering about the cats also
Call the mobile mechanic that Randy uses......
computer may need to be reset
Sorry it didn't go so well.
91 octane...cool...we have only 95, 98 and 102 here...
You are obviously not in the US. We use a different rating system
@@scottm7878 You are right. I'm in germany.
91 is like a 100 where you're from
Could it be that the fuel that was already in the tank had been in there that long that it is now contaminated?
I only know how to drive cars, not repair them I'm afraid, sorry.
I'm sure some really nice subscriber will tell you exactly what is wrong.
Yea i will guess it needs a transfluid and filter change
As I commented on another one of these videos, that SEC was not well cared for. Definitely an abused vehicle. The climate control system alone can cost thousands to fix. It can get out of hand real fast. You have received lots of good advice from other commenters. That economy gauge is crazy off! Yikes. I'm sure you'll go through it all. I wish you luck.
I purchased my Euro 500 SEC from the original owner last year. Thankfully it was a very well cared for and I recently had it serviced at Pierre Hedary's in Florida. There is no one better.
I'm guessing it could be partly at least a clogged catalytic converter.
scan it for codes
maybe is the muffler chip.. ahahah
FIRST!!
Winner winner chicken dinner!! Lol
@@MonkeyWrenchMike When you buying?? LOL
Only because you cheated 😂😂😂😂
My heart sank for you when the old girl played up Mike, there's plenty of suggestions on here on to what could be going on, maybe a case for outside help but that's up to you but look on the bright side she moved under her own steam. Chin up old bean it could be worse Trump could get a second term. As always Mike keep the sun shining and don't let the bastard's grind you down 🌄🌄🌄🙏. Gary...... England 🇬🇧
That second term thing has me scared...
That might be filthy old dirt in the fuel from the bottom of the tank
I don't believe the odometer works
Maybe cat
Brakes can be lock