My mother-in-law took her woolen fabric to the Dry Cleaner Shop to have it "steam pressed" before she made it into an important garment. That worked well for her. Good Luck on your wonderful projects!
I am starting a similar quest in tailoring. This year i was so very lucky to come across the wife of an ex savile row tailor who was selling off her husbands fabric stash. Very sadly he has dementia so no longer sews. She was offering a bin bag of Holland and Sherry fabrics for £40 & refused to drop the price to the dozens asking her to, obviously just chancers or people didnt sew or know Holland and Sherry fabric quality. Let's face it, £40 is not expensive for what it is anyway! I offered the asking price & arranged to collect, she then said she had other pieces to sell & would i be interested? Sooo long story-not-so-short i came away with the fabric listed plus more - large & small sleeveboards, his clapper, though her husband called it a rat so i shall continue that tradition (all three not only used by her husband on savile row but also his father before him!! His father actally made them in the 1930's) boxes upon boxes of buttons to match the fabrics, waistcoat clasps, boxes of hand sewing silks in diferent shades and three volumes of a very well known tailoring book my editions printed in 1932, whose name I have temporarily forgotten because it's nearly 1am & I had a cheeky baileys or three earlier!!) I really really want to do both father & son justice when i cut into those beautiful wool fabrics so am learning as much as i can before i start from anywhere I can - I'm sad i was unable to speak to the sellers husband, dementia is so cruel. She did tell when we parted that had he been able he'd have said he was happy to see his workroom contents go to someone who shared his passion 💜 #allthefeels
Thank you so much for going on this coat making journey,! I’m so excited to follow it, i’ve Not made a coat myself and look forward to someday. Following you really encourages me
I got my tailor's clapper from a building site that I worked on in early 2016. I was not sewing at that time, but I collected 2 pieces of pine wood that were being thrown out. I knew these pieces of pine wood would come in handy for something at a later stage. I suggest go to your local hardware store and look for a piece of pine that is close to the shape you need for a tailor's clapper. You can use the pine wood without sanding it the shape you need. I have not sanded my 2 pieces of pine wood into a more refined tailor's clapper. They work well as tailor's clappers as they are.
I've been so obsessed with the idea of making a coat for the past couple of years! Excited to follow your journey..! P.S.: I'm doing curly girl, too! Your hair is looking great!
I plan to make both versions of the Clare coat from Closet Case patterns. I love your red and checked fabrics! I won’t be pretreating my wool or suede fabrics. This will be an exciting new venture for both of us!
I will go with you in this joiurney, I want to learn the classicak tailoring, also to have the freedom to abandon it later after mastering it thank you very much for sharing!You are inspiring!
Your fabrics are beautiful. I would either send them to the dry cleaners or use you steamer. Whichever way you will take care of them once you make them up. Looking forward to seeing your makes. Great to see you. Val 🇨🇦🇬🇧❤️
Oh this is super, looks like quite a few of us are also starting to learn tailoring and couture techniques. I’m planning not to prepare my wool as will be dry cleaning it. I also made the mistake and bought the two tailoring books with same content! I’ve planned to make the rumana coat but also looking for a tailored blazer, possibly the V8333? Looking forward to seeing your tailoring journey progress
I have been fortunate enough in the past to have been able to buy 2 mohair coats, both from Dior. One was completely lined in silk, the other had seams bound in silk. The latter was a very open mohair weave, I think that was why only the edges were all bound also it was a more casual looking garment. I have always been taught that the lining should be the same type of fabric as the garment i.e. natural or manmade. Nearly all couture garments are lined in good quality silk. If I were you I would do the same. With regards to prepping the fabric, I can't see Couture houses washing their fabric. If you have any worries why don't you have the fabric dry cleaned before you start.
Really looking forward to seeing how you get on. I too have bought several different coat weight fabrics but have been far too distracted by Christmas to consider starting yet. Might I suggest you listen to the recent Love To Sew podcast on all things coaty. They have some good advice on pretreating. I expect you have a tailors ham and a sleeve roll. They both help pressing seams and avoid leaving the wool shiny around them. Also a little trick I found helpful with thick seams under the presser foot is to grab the the fabric behind the foot and gently pull it as it goes over the thicker parts. I think getting it right does take a bit of practice though.
Loved all your fabrics and wow! what projects you have so 'Courage mon Brave'. I am still plucking up enough courage to make a coat. The last fabric was beautiful and bearing in mind how thick it is I would go for the ''Style Arc' type of style. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with each project dealing with this type of fabric and what probs you had to overcome. Best wishes and have a lovely Xmas.
Good luck with your coat making journey. You have some great plans. I look forward to seeing your Sapporo as I’m hoping to start making one in the new year xx
My tailoring techniques I learned on a course on separate pieces of cloth. I still have them in the plastic wraps to have a look at when I need them. We even made a tailored jacket on scale, which was hell then 🙄 but I can still look at it how the techniques were applied😅
Snap Susie, I made a dress from Cobra Cosage, but in the jersey. Please, please do a sew along for The Rumana coat, I really want to make it but I have to find visuals to follow as written instructions hurt my head. For your pink coating I’d go with a bold black and white print lining. The Pona coat is a nice pattern, even I managed it! Gertie has a great vlog on bound button holes, her Princess coat is gorgeous but would be beyond me though you could definitely do it, though the pattern is very expensive and uses about 5m of fabric. Lovely vlog as always x
Don’t worry about sewing machine as the older ones (I have a singer treadle and a hand crank) they are perfect for thicker fabrics. Pressing ham and clapper are indispensable for tailoring. English Couture (Michelle Pye) tailoring supplies and fabulous interfacings and all that’s required plus tons of hints videos etc
Suzi St James explains very well. Treat before cutting fabric how you expect to clean your finished garment. If you want to dry clean there is a diy kit that I purchased 21 years ago and still is very usable. I’ll go look for the brand. I’ve done my winter coats, my husband and son ‘s wool suits, wool dresses etc...overall it’s saved a lot of money but I still have to press the garment afterwards. It’s “DRYEL” by Procter & Gamble
Welt pockets and bound buttonholes are the same technique. I was very intimated by them as well, but after making a few, they are easy, peasy. I'll look for a link, where Debbie puts them in tote bags (would be a place to get some practice without the worry). Don't lose your determination to learn new techniques. The feelings of accomplishment are what you want so go for it! You are ready! Sending lots of love ❤ and encouragement from sunny 🌅 Arizona 🌵
Oh wow, what beautiful fabrics! I can't give any advice, but I'm hoping to learn a lot. Can't wait to see the red sapporo...puts me in mind of the cocoon dress, and that can look either amazing or meh too.
Hi Suzanne, I am so pleased that you are back vlogging. I was going to recommend the Singer book and the Threads book both of which I have and found to be an excellent resource. As I continued watching I see that you have them both. If you can get hold of them you could also try Nancy Zieman DVD or books which are excellent. Happy tailoring! Caroline
Good luck with your coats. I have the Vogue 9040 on my make 9 list for 2018. Even though I have the fabric and lining I have been putting it off. January will be the month of making for me also.
Beautiful fabrics. Love the print fabric lining. I just got the Yates coat pattern by Grainline Studios. I think it would be great for your fabric and they have a full tutorial on their website. It came out last year and many people have made it. Love the pocket design. I have not made any coats yet but will follow your coat adventure so I can learn along too. As others here have recommended Love to Sew has a new podcast out on sewing coats. Helen’s closet blog also has some blogs of several coats she has made. Good luck and happy holidays!
Get the Palmer/Pletsch book Jackets for Every Body. It is fantastic. It tells you how to use fusible interfacing, do lapels, insert shoulder pads, etc. It is also a bible on fitting your coats. If you want to pretreat wool fabric. Google, the London shrink method. Basically, you put the wool in the dryer with a damp towel and it will shrink, but not felt.
I am so looking forward to your making of a tailored jacket. Tailoring was so difficult for me (might have been the instructors), I took it twice in college and both times I dropped out. (fortunately, it was an elective class, not a mandatory one to get my degree in clothing construction back in the '90s.) I still have the Jackets in a box somewhere. The Singer Tailoring book that you showed was the text for the class.
@@Threadquarters You will do fine!! You have a great following and if you have any questions I am sure your peeps will be glad to give advice. You might just instigate a tailoring craze with us all and influence those of us who have started to make jackets to finish them.
Hi again, I forgot to mention the DVDs by Terry Fox which I think are available thru' the English Couture Company. Good luck with your adventure! Caroline
Hi Suzy, I love all your choices and would love to see how you do the inter workings of your coats as you make them up. Lately evertime I order coat fabric somehow it's out of stock so apparently this is not my year for my first coat. There is a new vlogger in my neighboring state of Indiana called TomKat Stitchery that I think you'd be interested in checking out. She is an experienced seamstress and has made some of the coats you are planning. She has also been great about answering my questions. I've had a copy of the Sapporo coat for quite some time and have hemmed and hawed over my fabric choice. I have also noticed some very bad examples, which has also kept me from going forward, but the blue coat you gave the link to is amazing. One thing I know for sure is that the sizing of the Sapporo is very large.
Hi Suzy, I made my first long coat when I was 17 welt pockets, horsehair interfacing and bound buttonholes. When it was finished I took it to the drycleaners to press it and they flattened my fake lambswool lining. Very sad. Lol. I suggest you practice the welts and bound buttonholes on scraps of wool and unless you plan to toss your coat into the washer and dryer in the future don't worry about pretreating it. But use a press cloth when ironing the seams or you'll get the seams showing through. Best of luck. Irena
My clapper is a scrap of unfinished, untreated wood approx 10"x4"x2" from my wood shop. It works great as a clapper. I would recommend at least borrow a tailoring ham so you learn how to use it and how it shapes your garments. I've used a bath towel, but it's too frustrating and fiddlie for a beginner. A store bought ham is weighted and is firm in all the right places. ❤🌅🌵
I am well behind you in terms of skills so can't offer anything on that score. Hoping to try my first simple jacket in a few months so will be following with interest. Two thoughts on the lovely herringbone. A liberty cotton lawn could work really nicely with it. I have seen this used to line other coats and tweed capes to great effect. The other option would be to go with a standard shiny lining fabric in a contrasting colour. A beautiful violet or purple or navy blue would sing out against the pink and red. I used a shiny lining from Stitchy Bee to line a tweed cape and the combination is gorgeous. Marrying the two very different fabrics was extremely challenging but a huge learning experience for me, and the end result was worth the effort. Good luck!
Ooh I want to make a proper coat so this is great inspiration! I have the Rumana coat but I’m not sure about a long coat anymore. I want to make the Deer and Doe Opium coat, although not sure which techniques it involves. I’d also love a traditional navy pea coat. That window pane check wool is delicious! In terms of washing it, I wonder whether you could soak the fabric and then tumble dry (as that tends to be less aggressive than when the machine is washing) until it’s more dry and then air dry the remainder to avoid over shrinking. Zero expertise but just thinking out loud on that. For the pink fabric and lining, maybe something spotty, geometric, monochrome, something like that. Great video! x
Hi, great video I’ve only made a SOI Cocoon coat and have the Romana to do, have you looked at Butterick patterns B6385 is quite nice and has welt pockets. I’ve had the same experience with books and those exact tailoring photos!! Can’t wait to see what you decide. 😍. I would love a clapper but in the mean time I use a cheap small bread board!! I think I would use your steamer and I would use two of those skirt/trouser hangers to hang on a door you could get quite a width of fabric and of course you would have quite a length too then just turn it over. 🤔. X
Re: Prepping the wool. Doesn't fabric come with washing directions? In general, the best advice is prep fabric any way you plan to clean it when the garment is complete. With wool there's really only two options: Hand washing or dry cleaning. Yes, you can have the dry cleaners prep your fabric. And yes, fabric can shrink in the dry cleaning process. Depending on the percentages of your wool blends they maybe machine washable and dryable safely. You can't felt synthetics only natural fibers. Once you get past a certain percentage, you'll be safe to machine wash. (you can always test swatch, but keep the water and air on the cool and gentle side as heat and friction are elements of felting. I would measure the swatch before each washing and wash it several times to see how it will respond.) Personally, I don't put coats through the machine. I dry clean my coats when absolutely grimey, as I spot clean after each wearing, with a damp, white cloth. ❤🌅🌵
Hi Suzanna, I wouldn’t bother trying to shrink the fabrics, unless you’re planning to machinewash the coats. I always dryclean coats like that. Remember to use a press cloth when you’re ironing! Good luck with your tailoring journey!
Hi Suzie, you have chosen some great coats to try and can't wait to see them 💝. I have been admiring the Grainline Studio Cascade coat and was thinking your last black fabric with the square pattern would look amazing in that style 👌. Do you watch Whitney from Tomcat Stitchery...she is amazing and I have learnt so much from her and think you would love her content 👍. I'm looking forward to watching and seeing your progress and might even pluck up the courage to try a coat myself 😁💝😘
I think your pink herringbone fabric should be lined with a Paisley.I can't wait to go on this journey with you as I know you'll be honest and I'll learn a lot.
Very excited to see your journey and learn along the way - my coat making obsession has started in the past six months and I really want to learn more. My first coat has been the Ellesworth coat by Christine Haynes patterns, there are lots of reviews of this, good for lighter end fabrics, fully lined, good instructions, lots of examples on Instagram. I am considering making the Colette Lady Grey coat and Gertie has some old blog posts on how to properly tailor this coat, good reviews on patternreview.com. In terms of a clapper, I have a piece of wood from hardware store, it's cheap but works pretty well. I'm planning on getting into more structured tailoring in 2019 and am pleased to see some book recommendations. I'm wondering about whether to do a coat making course through Craftsy to get more tuition and demos. All the best with you adventure and I will learn with you!
Hallelujah! I've seen a number of marmite Sapporo coats. I go between loving it and questioning it with each version I see. It's lovely to hear an honest opinion. P.s. you could do with coats today. N.I. is reminiscent of the apocalypse today!!
Oh my goodness, I'm so excited about these coats, and I'm not even making them! Now I shall try and remember all the things I wanted to say as I watched your vlog. PLEASE line the Sappora with the snake corsage fabric!! That is going to be all kinds of awesome. And do you remember Jenny making it with the fabulous owl fabric? It was brilliant. Re the Rumana, you mentioned all the areas that are tricky - which is half the battle with that coat (and thank you once again for listening to all my whinging about making mine - it was greatly appreciated!!!!). I can't remember if I ever told you how I interfaced mine. I used the grey woven iron on interfacing that Julie also used on her Claire coat (I think I got mine from Tailor Mouse). My resource was an Alison Smith Craftsy class called "Essential Guide To Tailoring - Structure And Shape". She shows hand stitched tailoring (like I did on my black coat), and also tailoring using fusible interfacing. I would definately go with fusible for Rumana, because the canvas would make the coat very heavy - you've felt the weight of my black coat! Also, bound buttonholes would be lovely on it. This is a fabulous coat, and I've been wearing mine a lot lately. I think you're right that the navy and red check fabric might be too thick for the two patterns you mentioned. I, too, am looking for the perfect Pea Coat pattern, but haven't found it. Well, I have; but it's the Sew Over It 1960s Coat, which they only do as a class in their shop. They had a photo on Instagram during the week of a beautiful version someone had made in the class, and I left a comment asking when it would be released as a pattern, but they haven't replied. :( Also, I spotted someone on Instagram chatting about Burdastyle 10/2014 #125, which also has potential. And finally (thank goodness says you!), the only other tool you would need is a clapper. I got mine from Santa. Just sayin.... Good luck!! Lynne
Ooooo thanks for all the tips Lynne! I knew the Queen of Coats would come up good (sorry if you are fed up with that title...but thats what you are in my eyes!). Oh yes, Jenny's Sapporo was fantastic, her fabric had the right kind of structure for it. I will definitely need decent interfacing in my mohair to give it the right look. Tailor Mouse, I haven't heard of that place, must have a look, thanks! And I may keep my eyes open for a Craftsy sale and nab that class, it sounds perfect. Does the Rumana even have closures on the front? If not, Id need to extend it wouldn't I? Eek, that would make me nervous! Your black coat was amazing, but yes super heavy. But I bet you appreciate that in Winter? My pink fabric is actually really lightweight so maybe the canvas WOULD be good for it? Hmmm I don't know! Yes, I think you could see me coming to the realisation while filming that the navy/red fabric would be far too thick for the Kelly or Toasti. It is super heavy and thick so I think I'm going to have to pick a simple pattern for it. I'm sure they will release the 1960s coat pattern eventually...but who knows when! Ooo that Burda pattern is a beauty actually, gonna add that as a potential. Ta for the tip re steaming the wool too! xxx
@@Threadquarters I will totally take being the Queen of Coats!!!! Yes, Rumana has three buttons at the front, so no need for extending it. But the seam allowance at the front is 1 cm, which isn't very clear on the instructions. It's on the sewalong though. www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Interfacing,-Stiffenings--Webs/Interfacing/Woven-Interfacings/Medium-weight-fusible-canvas-W-%E2%80%93-natural__p-46-48-90-348.aspx That's the link for the interfacing I used. I know the exact fabric you're using because I have some samples in different colours (I recognised it before you even said where it was from!), and, yes, it is lightweight. I'm now pondering if canvas would be too heavy. It would work for a short jacket, but I'm thinking the weight might pull the front of the Rumana down as it's so long, and then it might hang funny. Hmm... not sure!! I'm going to have a look at the Style Arc pattern you mentioned, but I feel it's the SOI pattern or nothing for me! And I have the fabric and lining all ready to go!!
You are so ambitious, bravo!!!!! My aunt was a professional seamstress and worked at a coat factory. I could just kick myself for not taking advantage of her knowledge. I have been sewing all my life, but simple projects. My goal is to be a real advanced sewer, accomplished at tailoring. I would like to sew a capsule wardrobe. Pattern matching is the skill I am working on now, do you have any reference sources that would be helpful?
Oh I know, VERY ambitious...and Im nervous to start to I keep putting it off...I need to just get stuck in! Oh gosh, it would have been wonderful to hear from a professional how coats are made, all the little details. Oh goodness, pattern matching resources. Do you mean matching patterns to fabrics, or do you mean matching a pattern (like a stripe) across a seam?
@@Threadquarters like stripes and prints in the material. I saw a good tutorial from Made To Sew which was quite easy to understand. There is a sewing center near me that has a class where you bring in any project and they help you with it, I'm checking into that one.
You probably won't have any problems sewing the heavy wool on your machine. Wool is easily pierced. I would use a new needle made for medium to heavy fabrics. (Definitely not a needle for chiffon.) Last suit I made, I used a medium weight needle and my regular thread with no problems. ❤🌅🌵
Always spend a little more and get a lining that is static free. It's no fun taking off your coat, hearing snap, crackle, pop of static and finding your outfit clinging to you. ❤🌅🌵
For V9037, which view are you making? I love coats, it's my thing. I have several patterns I want to make but then, LOL, I wonder how many coats do I really need or can wear? I'll need to move to Siberia or Alaska to justify them all. Oh, I love the last fabric! About learning tailoring techniques. I find it more rewarding to only pick up1-2 new techniques with each project, other wise it gets rather overwhelming and difficult to actually finish the project. Maybe a class on "Skillshare" to learn the techniques might be a good direction? I would NOT pre-treat a coat fabric. You want the structure to stay in the fabric as you are making it. If it's wool simply hanging it outside will freshen it, and to clean it one can simply spot clean. Other fabrics I would always dry clean so no pre-treating is necessary. For tools I like having a "ham", clapper and sleeve "ham". A good steamer or steaming iron is helpful. And for the inner lining fabric I like it to be a heavier, woven fabric.
Have you seen the You Tube video by Ditsy Tulip, 15th the Dec., 2018? Maybe not the same type of coat as you are making but should help. Good luck, looking forward to your videos.
Keep the paperback tailoring book and have it spiral bound so you can leave it open flat. Believe me, it is great to do this with a paperback book!!!! use the lightest weight fabric first, probably make a blazer or jacket. This will help you to know if your machine can handle the thicknesses of the heavier pieces. How about a duffle coat in the last check pattern fabric? Lauren Guthrie made one that I liked. I made a duffle coat this year out of a heavy Pendleton wool (US brand of high-end wool fabrics). You can see it on my facebook page. S.Scholtz. Yes, you NEED a clapper! Pre-treat as you will maintain... Dry clean or wash... serge the ends first. I did not pre-treat mine. Good Luck! (you will be fine).
Also... Check out Rory Duffy he has a channel on here where he makes a coat & explains the constituant parts that go into making a tailored coat or jacket - not step by step tutorials as such but very informative & charming all the same. I picked up 2 tips in the first part in the series. 1) cover your ironing board in wool fabric, as most other fabrics will 'grip' on to it & not move around on you 2) to preshrink or prep wool coating/suiting use a paintbrush to brush water onto your fabric & press with a hot iron - I've done both with very pleasing results :)
Stunning fabrics.I think the pink herringbone should be lined with a Paisley fabric.I can't wait to watch your journey ,your honest and the results are stunning.
How about a liberty Tana lawn in a conversational print I used the pink Alice in wonderland liberty fabric a year ago for a wool jacket having that” silky feel to it “ meant it was slippy enough to work … the pink herringbone is fabulous I love it good luck x
Listen to the podcast for Love to Sew, they just did one on seeing coats. I think you will take away some good info. Also, love your curls. Dana Babbitt
Why don’t you take a class? Alison Smith and Gill Arnold run some fantastic ones... you end up spending the cost of a short holiday but they are So worth it. By the time you have had a good go, spent money on fabrics, notations and tools the classes almost pay for themselves. Know what you mean about those two books, I got caught out too😢
Preparing for a similar journey, so really looking forward to the next episodes! Maybe the Closet Case Clare Coat rather than their Kelly Anorak, for your last fabric? store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/clare-coat-sewing-pattern
Love your fabrics Suzanne! So beautiful :) I can't wait to walk with you on your coat journey! I was planning to make a coat last year but it just didn't unfold - have you looked at the Hemisferic Coat by Pauline Alice? www.paulinealice.com/new-pattern-the-hemisferic-coat/ - gorgeous pattern! I have this one to make up but we'll see for 2019 :) Wishing you & your loved ones a lovely holiday season filled with all your favourite things.
I am looking forward to your coat journey. I have the Sapporo coat on my list too and am a bit nervous to make. I love the lining you have chosen. Here is a beautiful pea coat pattern made up. catwardrobe.blogspot.com/2017/02/burda-10-2016-119-warm-melton-pea-coat.html
OMG that Sapporo Coat with the Lady Mackelroy!!!!! All the heart eyes for that plan.
I am excited to watch your journey. Making a coat is something that I hope to do as well.
Me too.
My mother-in-law took her woolen fabric to the Dry Cleaner Shop to have it "steam pressed" before she made it into an important garment. That worked well for her. Good Luck on your wonderful projects!
I am starting a similar quest in tailoring. This year i was so very lucky to come across the wife of an ex savile row tailor who was selling off her husbands fabric stash. Very sadly he has dementia so no longer sews. She was offering a bin bag of Holland and Sherry fabrics for £40 & refused to drop the price to the dozens asking her to, obviously just chancers or people didnt sew or know Holland and Sherry fabric quality. Let's face it, £40 is not expensive for what it is anyway! I offered the asking price & arranged to collect, she then said she had other pieces to sell & would i be interested? Sooo long story-not-so-short i came away with the fabric listed plus more - large & small sleeveboards, his clapper, though her husband called it a rat so i shall continue that tradition (all three not only used by her husband on savile row but also his father before him!! His father actally made them in the 1930's) boxes upon boxes of buttons to match the fabrics, waistcoat clasps, boxes of hand sewing silks in diferent shades and three volumes of a very well known tailoring book my editions printed in 1932, whose name I have temporarily forgotten because it's nearly 1am & I had a cheeky baileys or three earlier!!) I really really want to do both father & son justice when i cut into those beautiful wool fabrics so am learning as much as i can before i start from anywhere I can - I'm sad i was unable to speak to the sellers husband, dementia is so cruel. She did tell when we parted that had he been able he'd have said he was happy to see his workroom contents go to someone who shared his passion 💜 #allthefeels
Jojo Brooke-Flattery what a precious story! Enjoy your new-found treasures 😊
Thank you so much for going on this coat making journey,! I’m so excited to follow it, i’ve Not made a coat myself and look forward to someday. Following you really encourages me
I got my tailor's clapper from a building site that I worked on in early 2016. I was not sewing at that time, but I collected 2 pieces of pine wood that were being thrown out. I knew these pieces of pine wood would come in handy for something at a later stage.
I suggest go to your local hardware store and look for a piece of pine that is close to the shape you need for a tailor's clapper. You can use the pine wood without sanding it the shape you need. I have not sanded my 2 pieces of pine wood into a more refined tailor's clapper. They work well as tailor's clappers as they are.
I've been so obsessed with the idea of making a coat for the past couple of years! Excited to follow your journey..!
P.S.: I'm doing curly girl, too! Your hair is looking great!
I plan to make both versions of the Clare coat from Closet Case patterns. I love your red and checked fabrics! I won’t be pretreating my wool or suede fabrics. This will be an exciting new venture for both of us!
I will go with you in this joiurney, I want to learn the classicak tailoring, also to have the freedom to abandon it later after mastering it thank you very much for sharing!You are inspiring!
Your fabrics are beautiful. I would either send them to the dry cleaners or use you steamer. Whichever way you will take care of them once you make them up. Looking forward to seeing your makes. Great to see you. Val 🇨🇦🇬🇧❤️
I love your idea for the red coat.
I’m not sure if I should thank you for showing the Tosti coat. I immediately went and bought it along with the Bamboo coat. They are gorgeous.
Oh this is super, looks like quite a few of us are also starting to learn tailoring and couture techniques. I’m planning not to prepare my wool as will be dry cleaning it. I also made the mistake and bought the two tailoring books with same content! I’ve planned to make the rumana coat but also looking for a tailored blazer, possibly the V8333? Looking forward to seeing your tailoring journey progress
I love tailoring
Take your time with it
I am currently reading the couture techniques book
I have been fortunate enough in the past to have been able to buy 2 mohair coats, both from Dior. One was completely lined in silk, the other had seams bound in silk. The latter was a very open mohair weave, I think that was why only the edges were all bound also it was a more casual looking garment. I have always been taught that the lining should be the same type of fabric as the garment i.e. natural or manmade. Nearly all couture garments are lined in good quality silk. If I were you I would do the same.
With regards to prepping the fabric, I can't see Couture houses washing their fabric. If you have any worries why don't you have the fabric dry cleaned before you start.
Really looking forward to seeing how you get on. I too have bought several different coat weight fabrics but have been far too distracted by Christmas to consider starting yet. Might I suggest you listen to the recent Love To Sew podcast on all things coaty. They have some good advice on pretreating. I expect you have a tailors ham and a sleeve roll. They both help pressing seams and avoid leaving the wool shiny around them. Also a little trick I found helpful with thick seams under the presser foot is to grab the the fabric behind the foot and gently pull it as it goes over the thicker parts. I think getting it right does take a bit of practice though.
You can also use a piece of silk organza. I know this sounds random but it's the best pressing cloth in the world!!!
Good luck with your coat plans! I was able to visit Fabworks in May 2018. It’s a fantastic place, the fabrics are wonderful. 🇦🇺💜
Helen from stitch my style did a coat series. She was keen on a craftsy class for techniques I think
Loved all your fabrics and wow! what projects you have so 'Courage mon Brave'. I am still plucking up enough courage to make a coat. The last fabric was beautiful and bearing in mind how thick it is I would go for the ''Style Arc' type of style. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with each project dealing with this type of fabric and what probs you had to overcome. Best wishes and have a lovely Xmas.
Good luck with your coat making journey. You have some great plans. I look forward to seeing your Sapporo as I’m hoping to start making one in the new year xx
My tailoring techniques I learned on a course on separate pieces of cloth. I still have them in the plastic wraps to have a look at when I need them. We even made a tailored jacket on scale, which was hell then 🙄 but I can still look at it how the techniques were applied😅
You could take the fabric to a dry cleaner and ask them to steam string them. They can usually turn them in a day.
Snap Susie, I made a dress from Cobra Cosage, but in the jersey. Please, please do a sew along for The Rumana coat, I really want to make it but I have to find visuals to follow as written instructions hurt my head. For your pink coating I’d go with a bold black and white print lining. The Pona coat is a nice pattern, even I managed it! Gertie has a great vlog on bound button holes, her Princess coat is gorgeous but would be beyond me though you could definitely do it, though the pattern is very expensive and uses about 5m of fabric. Lovely vlog as always x
Don’t worry about sewing machine as the older ones (I have a singer treadle and a hand crank) they are perfect for thicker fabrics. Pressing ham and clapper are indispensable for tailoring. English Couture (Michelle Pye) tailoring supplies and fabulous interfacings and all that’s required plus tons of hints videos etc
Paisley or spot lining for the pink. Can't wait to see your journey
Suzi St James explains very well. Treat before cutting fabric how you expect to clean your finished garment. If you want to dry clean there is a diy kit that I purchased 21 years ago and still is very usable. I’ll go look for the brand. I’ve done my winter coats, my husband and son ‘s wool suits, wool dresses etc...overall it’s saved a lot of money but I still have to press the garment afterwards. It’s “DRYEL” by Procter & Gamble
Welt pockets and bound buttonholes are the same technique. I was very intimated by them as well, but after making a few, they are easy, peasy. I'll look for a link, where Debbie puts them in tote bags (would be a place to get some practice without the worry). Don't lose your determination to learn new techniques. The feelings of accomplishment are what you want so go for it! You are ready! Sending lots of love ❤ and encouragement from sunny 🌅 Arizona 🌵
I would sew a leopard print in the red coat and put a floral in then pink.
For your last fabric, I think the Oslo coat or the Opium coat would be really pretty.
Oh wow, what beautiful fabrics! I can't give any advice, but I'm hoping to learn a lot. Can't wait to see the red sapporo...puts me in mind of the cocoon dress, and that can look either amazing or meh too.
Argh, just remebered I forgot about how to treat the fabric. I steam wool with the iron, your hand held steamer sounds perfect. Lynne
Hi Suzanne, I am so pleased that you are back vlogging. I was going to recommend the Singer book and the Threads book both of which I have and found to be an excellent resource. As I continued watching I see that you have them both. If you can get hold of them you could also try Nancy Zieman DVD or books which are excellent. Happy tailoring! Caroline
Good luck with your coats. I have the Vogue 9040 on my make 9 list for 2018. Even though I have the fabric and lining I have been putting it off. January will be the month of making for me also.
Beautiful fabrics. Love the print fabric lining. I just got the Yates coat pattern by Grainline Studios. I think it would be great for your fabric and they have a full tutorial on their website. It came out last year and many people have made it. Love the pocket design. I have not made any coats yet but will follow your coat adventure so I can learn along too. As others here have recommended Love to Sew has a new podcast out on sewing coats. Helen’s closet blog also has some blogs of several coats she has made. Good luck and happy holidays!
Christine Haynes has a pea style coat and Nikki from the stitch sisters made one. Lovely fabrics 🤗🤗
maybe also interlining the mohair? gorgeous!
Hi lovely to see you again look forward to seeing your makes. next year I plan to make my first coat. best wishes, susan Peach
Get the Palmer/Pletsch book Jackets for Every Body. It is fantastic. It tells you how to use fusible interfacing, do lapels, insert shoulder pads, etc. It is also a bible on fitting your coats. If you want to pretreat wool fabric. Google, the London shrink method. Basically, you put the wool in the dryer with a damp towel and it will shrink, but not felt.
You will need a very good pressing cloth. I use a tailors duck cloth
I think Claire Shafer does patterns for the big 4. Maybe you can find some patterns with tailoring techniques in her patterns.
Love your hair! ❤🌅🌵
I am so looking forward to your making of a tailored jacket. Tailoring was so difficult for me (might have been the instructors), I took it twice in college and both times I dropped out. (fortunately, it was an elective class, not a mandatory one to get my degree in clothing construction back in the '90s.) I still have the Jackets in a box somewhere. The Singer Tailoring book that you showed was the text for the class.
Eeek you are making me very nervous now! lol! Thats very interesting, and reassuring that the Singer book was your text! Thanks for sharing x
@@Threadquarters You will do fine!! You have a great following and if you have any questions I am sure your peeps will be glad to give advice. You might just instigate a tailoring craze with us all and influence those of us who have started to make jackets to finish them.
Hi again, I forgot to mention the DVDs by Terry Fox which I think are available thru' the English Couture Company. Good luck with your adventure! Caroline
Hi Suzy, I love all your choices and would love to see how you do the inter workings of your coats as you make them up. Lately evertime I order coat fabric somehow it's out of stock so apparently this is not my year for my first coat. There is a new vlogger in my neighboring state of Indiana called TomKat Stitchery that I think you'd be interested in checking out. She is an experienced seamstress and has made some of the coats you are planning. She has also been great about answering my questions. I've had a copy of the Sapporo coat for quite some time and have hemmed and hawed over my fabric choice. I have also noticed some very bad examples, which has also kept me from going forward, but the blue coat you gave the link to is amazing. One thing I know for sure is that the sizing of the Sapporo is very large.
Hi Suzy, I made my first long coat when I was 17 welt pockets, horsehair interfacing and bound buttonholes. When it was finished I took it to the drycleaners to press it and they flattened my fake lambswool lining. Very sad. Lol. I suggest you practice the welts and bound buttonholes on scraps of wool and unless you plan to toss your coat into the washer and dryer in the future don't worry about pretreating it. But use a press cloth when ironing the seams or you'll get the seams showing through. Best of luck. Irena
I want to see the red coat made!!! Gorgeous fabric choice.
My clapper is a scrap of unfinished, untreated wood approx 10"x4"x2" from my wood shop. It works great as a clapper. I would recommend at least borrow a tailoring ham so you learn how to use it and how it shapes your garments. I've used a bath towel, but it's too frustrating and fiddlie for a beginner. A store bought ham is weighted and is firm in all the right places. ❤🌅🌵
I am well behind you in terms of skills so can't offer anything on that score. Hoping to try my first simple jacket in a few months so will be following with interest. Two thoughts on the lovely herringbone. A liberty cotton lawn could work really nicely with it. I have seen this used to line other coats and tweed capes to great effect. The other option would be to go with a standard shiny lining fabric in a contrasting colour. A beautiful violet or purple or navy blue would sing out against the pink and red. I used a shiny lining from Stitchy Bee to line a tweed cape and the combination is gorgeous. Marrying the two very different fabrics was extremely challenging but a huge learning experience for me, and the end result was worth the effort. Good luck!
Ooh I want to make a proper coat so this is great inspiration! I have the Rumana coat but I’m not sure about a long coat anymore. I want to make the Deer and Doe Opium coat, although not sure which techniques it involves. I’d also love a traditional navy pea coat. That window pane check wool is delicious! In terms of washing it, I wonder whether you could soak the fabric and then tumble dry (as that tends to be less aggressive than when the machine is washing) until it’s more dry and then air dry the remainder to avoid over shrinking. Zero expertise but just thinking out loud on that. For the pink fabric and lining, maybe something spotty, geometric, monochrome, something like that. Great video! x
Hi, great video I’ve only made a SOI Cocoon coat and have the Romana to do, have you looked at Butterick patterns B6385 is quite nice and has welt pockets. I’ve had the same experience with books and those exact tailoring photos!! Can’t wait to see what you decide. 😍. I would love a clapper but in the mean time I use a cheap small bread board!! I think I would use your steamer and I would use two of those skirt/trouser hangers to hang on a door you could get quite a width of fabric and of course you would have quite a length too then just turn it over. 🤔. X
Re: Prepping the wool. Doesn't fabric come with washing directions? In general, the best advice is prep fabric any way you plan to clean it when the garment is complete. With wool there's really only two options: Hand washing or dry cleaning. Yes, you can have the dry cleaners prep your fabric. And yes, fabric can shrink in the dry cleaning process. Depending on the percentages of your wool blends they maybe machine washable and dryable safely. You can't felt synthetics only natural fibers. Once you get past a certain percentage, you'll be safe to machine wash. (you can always test swatch, but keep the water and air on the cool and gentle side as heat and friction are elements of felting. I would measure the swatch before each washing and wash it several times to see how it will respond.) Personally, I don't put coats through the machine. I dry clean my coats when absolutely grimey, as I spot clean after each wearing, with a damp, white cloth. ❤🌅🌵
Love the fabrics, patterns and enthusiasm! Have you seem TomKat Stitchery’s top five coats? I wonder if that would help you. Good luck!
Hi Suzanna, I wouldn’t bother trying to shrink the fabrics, unless you’re planning to machinewash the coats. I always dryclean coats like that. Remember to use a press cloth when you’re ironing! Good luck with your tailoring journey!
Hi Suzie, you have chosen some great coats to try and can't wait to see them 💝. I have been admiring the Grainline Studio Cascade coat and was thinking your last black fabric with the square pattern would look amazing in that style 👌. Do you watch Whitney from Tomcat Stitchery...she is amazing and I have learnt so much from her and think you would love her content 👍. I'm looking forward to watching and seeing your progress and might even pluck up the courage to try a coat myself 😁💝😘
Yes! I have separate stashes! Books, patterns, fabric! You need to know the rules before you can figure out how (and when) to break them.
No experience with making coats but Just wanted to say that you have great ideas and patterns and nice fabrics. Good luck with the tailoring!
I lined my coat in liberty Tara lawn it has the slip required and you can get some for 12 to 15 on sale
Ooo Tana lawn is so lovely, good to know it has enough slip to act as lining, thanks!
I think your pink herringbone fabric should be lined with a Paisley.I can't wait to go on this journey with you as I know you'll be honest and I'll learn a lot.
WHAT about Deer and Doe Opium coat??
Very excited to see your journey and learn along the way - my coat making obsession has started in the past six months and I really want to learn more. My first coat has been the Ellesworth coat by Christine Haynes patterns, there are lots of reviews of this, good for lighter end fabrics, fully lined, good instructions, lots of examples on Instagram. I am considering making the Colette Lady Grey coat and Gertie has some old blog posts on how to properly tailor this coat, good reviews on patternreview.com. In terms of a clapper, I have a piece of wood from hardware store, it's cheap but works pretty well. I'm planning on getting into more structured tailoring in 2019 and am pleased to see some book recommendations. I'm wondering about whether to do a coat making course through Craftsy to get more tuition and demos. All the best with you adventure and I will learn with you!
Hallelujah! I've seen a number of marmite Sapporo coats. I go between loving it and questioning it with each version I see. It's lovely to hear an honest opinion. P.s. you could do with coats today. N.I. is reminiscent of the apocalypse today!!
Oh my goodness, I'm so excited about these coats, and I'm not even making them! Now I shall try and remember all the things I wanted to say as I watched your vlog.
PLEASE line the Sappora with the snake corsage fabric!! That is going to be all kinds of awesome. And do you remember Jenny making it with the fabulous owl fabric? It was brilliant.
Re the Rumana, you mentioned all the areas that are tricky - which is half the battle with that coat (and thank you once again for listening to all my whinging about making mine - it was greatly appreciated!!!!). I can't remember if I ever told you how I interfaced mine. I used the grey woven iron on interfacing that Julie also used on her Claire coat (I think I got mine from Tailor Mouse). My resource was an Alison Smith Craftsy class called "Essential Guide To Tailoring - Structure And Shape". She shows hand stitched tailoring (like I did on my black coat), and also tailoring using fusible interfacing. I would definately go with fusible for Rumana, because the canvas would make the coat very heavy - you've felt the weight of my black coat! Also, bound buttonholes would be lovely on it. This is a fabulous coat, and I've been wearing mine a lot lately.
I think you're right that the navy and red check fabric might be too thick for the two patterns you mentioned. I, too, am looking for the perfect Pea Coat pattern, but haven't found it. Well, I have; but it's the Sew Over It 1960s Coat, which they only do as a class in their shop. They had a photo on Instagram during the week of a beautiful version someone had made in the class, and I left a comment asking when it would be released as a pattern, but they haven't replied. :( Also, I spotted someone on Instagram chatting about Burdastyle 10/2014 #125, which also has potential.
And finally (thank goodness says you!), the only other tool you would need is a clapper. I got mine from Santa. Just sayin.... Good luck!! Lynne
Ooooo thanks for all the tips Lynne! I knew the Queen of Coats would come up good (sorry if you are fed up with that title...but thats what you are in my eyes!).
Oh yes, Jenny's Sapporo was fantastic, her fabric had the right kind of structure for it. I will definitely need decent interfacing in my mohair to give it the right look.
Tailor Mouse, I haven't heard of that place, must have a look, thanks! And I may keep my eyes open for a Craftsy sale and nab that class, it sounds perfect.
Does the Rumana even have closures on the front? If not, Id need to extend it wouldn't I? Eek, that would make me nervous!
Your black coat was amazing, but yes super heavy. But I bet you appreciate that in Winter? My pink fabric is actually really lightweight so maybe the canvas WOULD be good for it? Hmmm I don't know!
Yes, I think you could see me coming to the realisation while filming that the navy/red fabric would be far too thick for the Kelly or Toasti. It is super heavy and thick so I think I'm going to have to pick a simple pattern for it.
I'm sure they will release the 1960s coat pattern eventually...but who knows when! Ooo that Burda pattern is a beauty actually, gonna add that as a potential.
Ta for the tip re steaming the wool too!
xxx
@@Threadquarters I will totally take being the Queen of Coats!!!! Yes, Rumana has three buttons at the front, so no need for extending it. But the seam allowance at the front is 1 cm, which isn't very clear on the instructions. It's on the sewalong though.
www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Interfacing,-Stiffenings--Webs/Interfacing/Woven-Interfacings/Medium-weight-fusible-canvas-W-%E2%80%93-natural__p-46-48-90-348.aspx
That's the link for the interfacing I used. I know the exact fabric you're using because I have some samples in different colours (I recognised it before you even said where it was from!), and, yes, it is lightweight. I'm now pondering if canvas would be too heavy. It would work for a short jacket, but I'm thinking the weight might pull the front of the Rumana down as it's so long, and then it might hang funny. Hmm... not sure!!
I'm going to have a look at the Style Arc pattern you mentioned, but I feel it's the SOI pattern or nothing for me! And I have the fabric and lining all ready to go!!
I would love to learn more about the tools, when you get started sewing your lookbook of coats.
Have you listened to the latest Love to Sew podcast? They talk about making coats and how to pre treat the fabric.
You are so ambitious, bravo!!!!! My aunt was a professional seamstress and worked at a coat factory. I could just kick myself for not taking advantage of her knowledge. I have been sewing all my life, but simple projects. My goal is to be a real advanced sewer, accomplished at tailoring. I would like to sew a capsule wardrobe. Pattern matching is the skill I am working on now, do you have any reference sources that would be helpful?
Oh I know, VERY ambitious...and Im nervous to start to I keep putting it off...I need to just get stuck in! Oh gosh, it would have been wonderful to hear from a professional how coats are made, all the little details.
Oh goodness, pattern matching resources. Do you mean matching patterns to fabrics, or do you mean matching a pattern (like a stripe) across a seam?
@@Threadquarters like stripes and prints in the material. I saw a good tutorial from Made To Sew which was quite easy to understand. There is a sewing center near me that has a class where you bring in any project and they help you with it, I'm checking into that one.
That local class sounds like a great idea - good luck and enjoy!
Have you ever checked out patternreview.com? Also Liz sews on You Tube has made some coats you could check out.
You probably won't have any problems sewing the heavy wool on your machine. Wool is easily pierced. I would use a new needle made for medium to heavy fabrics. (Definitely not a needle for chiffon.) Last suit I made, I used a medium weight needle and my regular thread with no problems. ❤🌅🌵
Hi, you said you were looking for suggestions of patterns. Did you see vogue pattern 8884? It has welt pockets. Check it out.😊
Always spend a little more and get a lining that is static free. It's no fun taking off your coat, hearing snap, crackle, pop of static and finding your outfit clinging to you. ❤🌅🌵
Great video! Off I went to Fabworks, oohed and aahed over the Avoca wool and then ... £8 shipping to Norn Iron :'-(
For V9037, which view are you making?
I love coats, it's my thing. I have several patterns I want to make but then, LOL, I wonder how many coats do I really need or can wear? I'll need to move to Siberia or Alaska to justify them all.
Oh, I love the last fabric!
About learning tailoring techniques. I find it more rewarding to only pick up1-2 new techniques with each project, other wise it gets rather overwhelming and difficult to actually finish the project. Maybe a class on "Skillshare" to learn the techniques might be a good direction?
I would NOT pre-treat a coat fabric. You want the structure to stay in the fabric as you are making it. If it's wool simply hanging it outside will freshen it, and to clean it one can simply spot clean. Other fabrics I would always dry clean so no pre-treating is necessary.
For tools I like having a "ham", clapper and sleeve "ham". A good steamer or steaming iron is helpful. And for the inner lining fabric I like it to be a heavier, woven fabric.
Have you seen the You Tube video by Ditsy Tulip, 15th the Dec., 2018? Maybe not the same type of coat as you are making but should help. Good luck, looking forward to your videos.
Keep the paperback tailoring book and have it spiral bound so you can leave it open flat. Believe me, it is great to do this with a paperback book!!!! use the lightest weight fabric first, probably make a blazer or jacket. This will help you to know if your machine can handle the thicknesses of the heavier pieces. How about a duffle coat in the last check pattern fabric? Lauren Guthrie made one that I liked. I made a duffle coat this year out of a heavy Pendleton wool (US brand of high-end wool fabrics). You can see it on my facebook page. S.Scholtz. Yes, you NEED a clapper! Pre-treat as you will maintain... Dry clean or wash... serge the ends first. I did not pre-treat mine. Good Luck! (you will be fine).
Also... Check out Rory Duffy he has a channel on here where he makes a coat & explains the constituant parts that go into making a tailored coat or jacket - not step by step tutorials as such but very informative & charming all the same. I picked up 2 tips in the first part in the series. 1) cover your ironing board in wool fabric, as most other fabrics will 'grip' on to it & not move around on you 2) to preshrink or prep wool coating/suiting use a paintbrush to brush water onto your fabric & press with a hot iron - I've done both with very pleasing results :)
If you don’t know about the Love To Sew podcast you need to listen to episode 71 titled Sewing Coats! You will love it
Stunning fabrics.I think the pink herringbone should be lined with a Paisley fabric.I can't wait to watch your journey ,your honest and the results are stunning.
How about a liberty Tana lawn in a conversational print I used the pink Alice in wonderland liberty fabric a year ago for a wool jacket having that” silky feel to it “ meant it was slippy enough to work … the pink herringbone is fabulous I love it good luck x
Listen to the podcast for Love to Sew, they just did one on seeing coats. I think you will take away some good info. Also, love your curls. Dana Babbitt
Kittenishbehaviour just made an amazing coat her mum is a quilter and made an amazing lining
I bought my clapper on eBay.
Why don’t you take a class? Alison Smith and Gill Arnold run some fantastic ones... you end up spending the cost of a short holiday but they are So worth it. By the time you have had a good go, spent money on fabrics, notations and tools the classes almost pay for themselves. Know what you mean about those two books, I got caught out too😢
Preparing for a similar journey, so really looking forward to the next episodes!
Maybe the Closet Case Clare Coat rather than their Kelly Anorak, for your last fabric?
store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/clare-coat-sewing-pattern
Love your fabrics Suzanne! So beautiful :) I can't wait to walk with you on your coat journey! I was planning to make a coat last year but it just didn't unfold - have you looked at the Hemisferic Coat by Pauline Alice? www.paulinealice.com/new-pattern-the-hemisferic-coat/ - gorgeous pattern! I have this one to make up but we'll see for 2019 :) Wishing you & your loved ones a lovely holiday season filled with all your favourite things.
I am looking forward to your coat journey. I have the Sapporo coat on my list too and am a bit nervous to make. I love the lining you have chosen. Here is a beautiful pea coat pattern made up. catwardrobe.blogspot.com/2017/02/burda-10-2016-119-warm-melton-pea-coat.html