Man has put up some of the most classic routes and a TON of them. Really a visionnary of climbing. I think we don't fully grasp the legacy he will leave behind when he retires yet. Like, once we're old he'll have reached myth status lol
If we exclude Adam Ondra the alien, probably Seb Bouin can take the Chris Charma's scepter as the creator of beautiful and hard lines, but I do not know why it seems like the climbing community is not considering him really much... probably because his lines are too hard for everyone except for him (imagine doing nordic maraton... 130 meters of 9b/+...)
seeing Jorge climbing with you on a line from Chris is just Christmas for me this year :) Hope to see you team up again next year. Jorge is just a beast, probably running out of routes in Spain soon!
I loved the filming on this, the problem solving! You could really see how good or bad the holds were and how they were breaking this route down - very rarely do you see that kind of thing other than in bouldering style videos (and often not even on those). Thanks :-)
As always, the best climbing content! And so happy to see Stefano climbing with Jorge Díaz and how he is really exicited and impressed watching Stefano climbing. Stefano is so humble and gave a lot of prominence to Jorge in the video. He will get the attention he deserves soon, climbing perfecto mundo and maybe a 9c route!
This video is an absolute treat. Crushers trying hard but with a chill vibe, tons of climbing, great explanation and not much fluff. Love this Stefano!
I'd say that's more their different climbing styles. Jorge is slightly shorter than Stephano and it's not the first time he finds different static betas, he's very good on bad crimps. Hope they keep trying the line!
Forza !! Pure style Stefano. La fluidité et la technique font presque oublier la difficulté de cette voie. Jorge is really powerfull and good technician too ! Thanks guys for inspire and dream
Wow, Jorge is becoming scary good. I'm halfway through the video and don't know how many times he's tried this route, but he's really young and looking elite already.
Awesome dude, been desperate to see more of this route and super cool Chris is there for support, as someone whose a similar age to Chris “actually 41 today” he’s my main inspiration for hard climbing as well as the obvious beasts like Neil Gresham, Dave McCloud, Steve McClure to name a few.
great vid! i fast forwarded up to the middle part to skip all the siurana climbing festival intro but soon realized there was none :) Full climbing from minute zero
Super cool man. I watched you on the first day trying the route. I loved your presentation as well at the festival and it was really nice meeting you after.
The route looks cool, not just hard! Jorge sends up the best vibes from below (I think I'll get my belayers to watch this as an instructional video on how to inspire/support a climber)
@@Freeriderau2 the natural rock face is always changing, change is the only natural, and you are now interfering with that. Wherein lies the challenge if the mountain cannot win?
Amazing footage! would love to know how it felt compared to megos's ratstaman vibrations in Ceuse. Both look like they have dynamic bouldery sections. Obviously this is longer
Last Stefano's attempt was inpressive, for being just jn the second day on the route. He just nailed the difficult link. This is by any means no guarantee of success any time soon, but with a few days more there.. who knows
sorry for the controversial question, but the siurana guidebook from 2023 has a note about the route having chipped or otherwise manufactured holds. what are your thoughts about this?
In my opinion if the bolts are installed and the climb is not possible but is close, manufacturing a hold is not the worst thing you can do. Not ideal but better that it can be climbed than the bolts just sit in the cliff on an impossible line
Bolting with the intent of chipping is a definite no go. In my opinion it is like placing a bolt on an unprotect-able section of a mostly trad climb. Better that it can be climbed, but loses points for impure ethics.
you exported the video with wrong panning on the audio channels. Sometimes the belayer and climber are panned left and right and not mid. Its noticeable on headphones. Greetings from a video editor ;) still great video
Correct. Re-threaded bowline is a common tie-in knot in Germany and Austria (and probably more). Utilized also by Jakob Schubert.@@alexandermarkweber1814
I reckon 9b+ from this. He is making so much progress in links compared to Silence. But in the end, you need to do the entire thing, so we'll know in time :)
King Sharma just has the eye for bomber routes! The fanboy in me just hopes the 9b+ grade stays ... i am little doubtful though tbh judging by how quick progress stefano made ...
Stefano is probably one of the most well rounded and strong 9b+ climbers out there. He is definitely not the right person to say “it’s not 9b+ cause he progressed quickly”. At the same time as more climbers and betas come at this route I’m sure a downgrade can be found. Chris climbed in his style and graded it based off that.
yeap these guys are stronger than anyone and pro. However stefano started from 3-4 moves in second crux (main one) and linked all the way to the end of thirth crux at his thirth try of this route. For sure downgrade will come .
🫂💋🫂 🙏💎🌎 🏹💙🕉 Unos Amigos Iniciaron èste Proyecto. Siurana Escuela Internacional de Escalada. Toni Arbonès i Miriam su compañera. Conozco estas Paredes ... He parado para Admirar còmo remontan un 8 A...Que Belleza🙏💖. Dank qu well
The route has sika to reinforce holds, and in our last go we were not even using that undercling cause we found a different beta, so it would not make sense if it was chipped cause the route is possible even without it 🙂
Sharma's lines always have the right balance of try-hard, interesting movement, and aesthetic.
Man has put up some of the most classic routes and a TON of them. Really a visionnary of climbing. I think we don't fully grasp the legacy he will leave behind when he retires yet. Like, once we're old he'll have reached myth status lol
If we exclude Adam Ondra the alien, probably Seb Bouin can take the Chris Charma's scepter as the creator of beautiful and hard lines, but I do not know why it seems like the climbing community is not considering him really much... probably because his lines are too hard for everyone except for him (imagine doing nordic maraton... 130 meters of 9b/+...)
@@simoneponticelli4453 some seb routes got repeated
He gets overlooked because he grades everything 9b/+. Slash grades don't get love. @@simoneponticelli4453
Not even impressed , Magnus or most climbers could flash this.. look at the holds they are all almost jugs barely any crimps smh not even that hard
Too produce a scream like that at 2:59 that man definitely fell on the last move of his 20 year project because of a foot hold breaking
I think he's just one of those screamers
He is not @@jarfrobinksss
Stefano continuing to put out the best climbing content around. Great vid!
seeing Jorge climbing with you on a line from Chris is just Christmas for me this year :) Hope to see you team up again next year. Jorge is just a beast, probably running out of routes in Spain soon!
I loved the filming on this, the problem solving! You could really see how good or bad the holds were and how they were breaking this route down - very rarely do you see that kind of thing other than in bouldering style videos (and often not even on those). Thanks :-)
That was Ondra letting out a scream after you said someone besides him is the master of kneebars
It's good to know that Stefano is just like the rest of us: starting projects at every crag he visits without knowing when he'll come back 😅
wait did I just see a pro climber putting his draws ? wow :D
As always, the best climbing content! And so happy to see Stefano climbing with Jorge Díaz and how he is really exicited and impressed watching Stefano climbing. Stefano is so humble and gave a lot of prominence to Jorge in the video. He will get the attention he deserves soon, climbing perfecto mundo and maybe a 9c route!
Every time I watch a Stefano video, it ruins my shot at the on sight attempt. 😂
Totally
This video is an absolute treat. Crushers trying hard but with a chill vibe, tons of climbing, great explanation and not much fluff. Love this Stefano!
That’s so interesting to see how big is the difference of style between these two really strong climber !
I laughed out loud at so many times. especially "they're showing sleeping lion tonight, so I can steal all the betas" lmfao
Incredible progress for only 2 days on!
You can really see how Jorge's longer reach allows him to be more static and spread out over Stephano's more dynamic movement on this route.
I'd say that's more their different climbing styles. Jorge is slightly shorter than Stephano and it's not the first time he finds different static betas, he's very good on bad crimps. Hope they keep trying the line!
@@pirishjstefano is 170 with a +4 according to wikipedia, while jorge is 169-170 with a +12
@@tanguylaloy8155 +12?!?!? Jesus, actually made for climbing.
@@pirishjthat's crazy he looks nine feet tall watching him climb
@@tonymonbetsu2563 I had the same feeling, had to double check !!
Forza !! Pure style Stefano. La fluidité et la technique font presque oublier la difficulté de cette voie. Jorge is really powerfull and good technician too ! Thanks guys for inspire and dream
Amazing climbers....jorge is really good guy 💪
Conditions are perfect - 10 secs later - will be hard with this conditions 😂
Wow, Jorge is becoming scary good.
I'm halfway through the video and don't know how many times he's tried this route, but he's really young and looking elite already.
Wonderful as always Stefano. You're radiating joy, easiness and good feelings, thanks for that! It means a lot
Pleas try la Dura Dura after the Fire. Only Sharma and Ondra climbed that route back in 2013. Was never repeaten...
2 nice guys, climbing beasts!!! It's nice to watch few climbers in one video/one route, you can see their different moves and climbing styles.
Thanks for showing us another one of Chris’s King lines
So cool seeing the process of an elite climber projecting a top-tier route, cheers for the quality content!
I love to see these 3 together. Awesome climbers trying a legendary route. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome dude, been desperate to see more of this route and super cool Chris is there for support, as someone whose a similar age to Chris “actually 41 today” he’s my main inspiration for hard climbing as well as the obvious beasts like Neil Gresham, Dave McCloud, Steve McClure to name a few.
Istn he 31? Almost same age^^
Fun to hear the belayer yelling allez, venga, and come on all in the same breath.
and dai dai
great vid! i fast forwarded up to the middle part to skip all the siurana climbing festival intro but soon realized there was none :) Full climbing from minute zero
Cool to see a younger climber trying this route. It just goes to show how much of a beast Chris is, the man still has a lot of gas in the tank!
Also nice to see Felipe Camargo in the video.
Isn’t stefano 30? Or did you just mean younger than Chris?
@@stefslyfe I meant younger than Chris
Great video, thanks Stefano and everybody else involved!
Super cool man. I watched you on the first day trying the route. I loved your presentation as well at the festival and it was really nice meeting you after.
Video dell’anno steee, sei un mostro
It is nice to see Jorge trying the route with you
Love the part of " im here with the jorge diaz rullo". You miss the firs of his name and the only and the one ❤
The route looks cool, not just hard! Jorge sends up the best vibes from below (I think I'll get my belayers to watch this as an instructional video on how to inspire/support a climber)
I'm not a huge fan of stereo with 2 different sources. Nice video, figuring out beta so quickly is so impressive.
Great Filming & Great Editing!!!!!!!! Amazing climbing!!! Chris awesome route!!!
Thank you for the great video Stefano. This is what climbing videos should be like.
7:16 is a wow move (non-climber here)
18:37 same
so amazing, thank you soo much for sharing this with us, its so nice to see how you start the progress of a project. thank you
What do you think the breakdown of grades for those sections would be? Would love to try/do this someday 😀. Looks awesome
You definitely should tom! This seems to fit your board climbing training also!
@@sambeard4428 would love to make it happen!
Sharma said in his video that it was basically a four part boulder problem climb with ok-ish rests in between : V11-V12-V11-V11 or V11-V11-V12-V11.
No, ma che tecnici Stefano e Jorge, sono impressionato dalla solidità e dalla casualità del passaggio chiave. a parte un'ottima edizione
Jorge should be included in the video title!
Great video, try to work on this one during this winter..such a nice line..
Are there chipped holds on the sleeping lion? And if - who chipped them?
there's just some sika to reinforce holds that otherwise would break
@@steghiso Ok i see! So thats not chipping! In my opinion thats totaly ok and no change of the natural rockface...Thank you for the Info :) Rock on :)
Sika is modification too
@@jipe4153ja but in a way of conserving the natural rockface. So not that bad...
@@Freeriderau2 the natural rock face is always changing, change is the only natural, and you are now interfering with that.
Wherein lies the challenge if the mountain cannot win?
Wow, the moves are so cool! Hope you can make it back to try it over the winter, thanks for sharing!
Another stunner by Chris!
Amazing footage! would love to know how it felt compared to megos's ratstaman vibrations in Ceuse. Both look like they have dynamic bouldery sections. Obviously this is longer
Good stuff as always 💪🙏. What’s the benefit of knot that you are using, beside figure eight?
Its always easy to undoe
So cool to see this process!
Love this vid!
“Lie down and rest for half an hour” 😂
Last Stefano's attempt was inpressive, for being just jn the second day on the route. He just nailed the difficult link. This is by any means no guarantee of success any time soon, but with a few days more there.. who knows
chris really knows how to climb HARD
Nice video and route the music is epic
Vaya dos se han juntado.
Jorge Diaz se va a peinar esa ruta fijisimo 100%
Uffff, estoy agotado solo de veros escalar……. Vaya par de bestias 🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾
sorry for the controversial question, but the siurana guidebook from 2023 has a note about the route having chipped or otherwise manufactured holds. what are your thoughts about this?
La Dura Dura is also shipped. Not unusual on sharmas routes
18:09, you can see a drilled hole being used as a pocket
In my opinion if the bolts are installed and the climb is not possible but is close, manufacturing a hold is not the worst thing you can do. Not ideal but better that it can be climbed than the bolts just sit in the cliff on an impossible line
So is the chris Sharma rrg classic thug life
Bolting with the intent of chipping is a definite no go. In my opinion it is like placing a bolt on an unprotect-able section of a mostly trad climb. Better that it can be climbed, but loses points for impure ethics.
dude you basically flashed the crux holy shit
you exported the video with wrong panning on the audio channels. Sometimes the belayer and climber are panned left and right and not mid. Its noticeable on headphones. Greetings from a video editor ;) still great video
So is nobody going to mention the scream at 2:57?
Fine line ,nice video
Anyone else curious what happened off camera at 3:00!?
Great video!
how many pulls a day to you get on stuff like this?
On how many languages did the camera guy cheered Stefano? I heared 3 or 4. Best of luck guys!
Wow dude super cool video 🔥🔥
what kinda band do you have around your right bicep?
amazing video! ❤🔥🔥
sickest vid I've seen in a while
browni, browni = drop knee hahah fantastic
What a nice surprise! Does it look harder than Bibliographie?
So cool!
I said . 👑 That Chris. 👑
That has the hardest roads in the world!
What is Stefano's tie in? A double bowline?
Whoops, I meant a re-threaded bowline
Correct. Re-threaded bowline is a common tie-in knot in Germany and Austria (and probably more). Utilized also by Jakob Schubert.@@alexandermarkweber1814
What's the strap stefano is wearing in his arm?
It's a heart rate monitor band from Coros
Bellissimo!
Nice video, it's like to be there!
I sent it first go a few weeks back...super chill route. Lemme know if you and the boys need beta ;)
With a rope though? Punter, i free soloed it……naked 😂
So strong!!
💥 fuori di testa
Masterpice 9b+/c. Pure Lion in you!
I reckon 9b+ from this. He is making so much progress in links compared to Silence. But in the end, you need to do the entire thing, so we'll know in time :)
craaaaaazy link!
Music is sick!
In case anyone's wondering, this goes at 9B+ or 5.15c
Looks much easier than la dura dura TBH
did he put the quickdraws in sleeping lion after he got to the top? how is it that they are already there when he is leading?😅
At the beginning of the video they place the quickdraws. A lot of steep routes at least here in Spain also have quickdraws places. Not here tho
draws are often placed on rappel/abseil from a top entry, or you pull on draws from bolt to bolt aid-style
I was putting them on in the first go!
And thus, the Sleeping Lion group chat was born.
bring Ondra, Zeb, Yoshiyuki and Schubeert too.
2:59 hahahahahahahaha
2:59 lol
Ciao Stefano guarda che gli integratori che hai presentato non vengono spediti in Europa
Un meme a 3:00🤣🤣
King Sharma just has the eye for bomber routes!
The fanboy in me just hopes the 9b+ grade stays ... i am little doubtful though tbh judging by how quick progress stefano made ...
Stefano is probably one of the most well rounded and strong 9b+ climbers out there. He is definitely not the right person to say “it’s not 9b+ cause he progressed quickly”. At the same time as more climbers and betas come at this route I’m sure a downgrade can be found. Chris climbed in his style and graded it based off that.
I hope you are right, but on no other 9b+ he tried, did he think about making gos at the third day. So we'll see@@lidontlo
Ever planning on trying DNA?
Well, I guess the lion is not sleeping anymore ;)
yeap these guys are stronger than anyone and pro. However stefano started from 3-4 moves in second crux (main one) and linked all the way to the end of thirth crux at his thirth try of this route. For sure downgrade will come .
anyone else getting odd left right audio?
great vid (but audio isn't well balanced)
🫂💋🫂
🙏💎🌎
🏹💙🕉
Unos Amigos Iniciaron èste Proyecto.
Siurana Escuela Internacional de Escalada.
Toni Arbonès i Miriam su compañera.
Conozco estas Paredes ...
He parado para Admirar còmo remontan un 8 A...Que Belleza🙏💖.
Dank qu well
Was this route chipped? The undercling hold looks super sus and too convenient th-cam.com/video/yX5hkFSM5JU/w-d-xo.html
For sure it's not a natural hold. And isn't the only one 😅
The route has sika to reinforce holds, and in our last go we were not even using that undercling cause we found a different beta, so it would not make sense if it was chipped cause the route is possible even without it 🙂
Good to know, I believed, Chris would not do that..@@steghiso