I tried Sharma's Sleeping Lion

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2024
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    I had a short trip to Spain for the Siurana Climbing Festival and I had the chance to try Sharma's latest masterpiece The Sleeping Lion with Jorge Diaz Rullo and Felipe Camargo. Check out here out it went!
    IG:
    / steghiso
    Filmed by / sara_grip
    and edited by 📸🎥:
    Crimp films: / crimp.films. .
    check out the microphones I used for this video:
    www.hollyland....

ความคิดเห็น • 181

  • @patrickthorpe8860
    @patrickthorpe8860 ปีที่แล้ว +203

    Sharma's lines always have the right balance of try-hard, interesting movement, and aesthetic.

    • @MrWill830
      @MrWill830 ปีที่แล้ว +21

      Man has put up some of the most classic routes and a TON of them. Really a visionnary of climbing. I think we don't fully grasp the legacy he will leave behind when he retires yet. Like, once we're old he'll have reached myth status lol

    • @simoneponticelli4453
      @simoneponticelli4453 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      If we exclude Adam Ondra the alien, probably Seb Bouin can take the Chris Charma's scepter as the creator of beautiful and hard lines, but I do not know why it seems like the climbing community is not considering him really much... probably because his lines are too hard for everyone except for him (imagine doing nordic maraton... 130 meters of 9b/+...)

    • @flooo5071
      @flooo5071 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@simoneponticelli4453 some seb routes got repeated

    • @BoboBish
      @BoboBish ปีที่แล้ว

      He gets overlooked because he grades everything 9b/+. Slash grades don't get love. @@simoneponticelli4453

    • @Ericxnugz
      @Ericxnugz ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Not even impressed , Magnus or most climbers could flash this.. look at the holds they are all almost jugs barely any crimps smh not even that hard

  • @Jimbo_Lawlor
    @Jimbo_Lawlor ปีที่แล้ว +62

    Too produce a scream like that at 2:59 that man definitely fell on the last move of his 20 year project because of a foot hold breaking

    • @jarfrobinksss
      @jarfrobinksss ปีที่แล้ว +7

      I think he's just one of those screamers

    • @blubblubwhat
      @blubblubwhat 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      He is not ​@@jarfrobinksss

  • @tiamat87
    @tiamat87 ปีที่แล้ว +61

    seeing Jorge climbing with you on a line from Chris is just Christmas for me this year :) Hope to see you team up again next year. Jorge is just a beast, probably running out of routes in Spain soon!

  • @ScribblesAndHighlights
    @ScribblesAndHighlights ปีที่แล้ว +77

    Stefano continuing to put out the best climbing content around. Great vid!

  • @SirCharcoal
    @SirCharcoal ปีที่แล้ว +29

    I loved the filming on this, the problem solving! You could really see how good or bad the holds were and how they were breaking this route down - very rarely do you see that kind of thing other than in bouldering style videos (and often not even on those). Thanks :-)

  • @zeidler8445
    @zeidler8445 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Pleas try la Dura Dura after the Fire. Only Sharma and Ondra climbed that route back in 2013. Was never repeaten...

  • @zech9065
    @zech9065 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    As always, the best climbing content! And so happy to see Stefano climbing with Jorge Díaz and how he is really exicited and impressed watching Stefano climbing. Stefano is so humble and gave a lot of prominence to Jorge in the video. He will get the attention he deserves soon, climbing perfecto mundo and maybe a 9c route!

  • @amberblackford9999
    @amberblackford9999 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    This video is an absolute treat. Crushers trying hard but with a chill vibe, tons of climbing, great explanation and not much fluff. Love this Stefano!

  • @TheMegaMrMe
    @TheMegaMrMe ปีที่แล้ว +31

    It's good to know that Stefano is just like the rest of us: starting projects at every crag he visits without knowing when he'll come back 😅

  • @colehibbard2851
    @colehibbard2851 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    That was Ondra letting out a scream after you said someone besides him is the master of kneebars

  • @gillesparez9119
    @gillesparez9119 ปีที่แล้ว +31

    wait did I just see a pro climber putting his draws ? wow :D

  • @jonathanrossddsmhs1271
    @jonathanrossddsmhs1271 ปีที่แล้ว +25

    Every time I watch a Stefano video, it ruins my shot at the on sight attempt. 😂

    • @blubblubwhat
      @blubblubwhat 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Totally

  • @adamforestier3351
    @adamforestier3351 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Incredible progress for only 2 days on!

  • @gaspardvidal1106
    @gaspardvidal1106 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    That’s so interesting to see how big is the difference of style between these two really strong climber !

  • @gball8466
    @gball8466 ปีที่แล้ว +43

    You can really see how Jorge's longer reach allows him to be more static and spread out over Stephano's more dynamic movement on this route.

    • @pirishj
      @pirishj ปีที่แล้ว +11

      I'd say that's more their different climbing styles. Jorge is slightly shorter than Stephano and it's not the first time he finds different static betas, he's very good on bad crimps. Hope they keep trying the line!

    • @tanguylaloy8155
      @tanguylaloy8155 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      @@pirishjstefano is 170 with a +4 according to wikipedia, while jorge is 169-170 with a +12

    • @highertest
      @highertest ปีที่แล้ว

      @@tanguylaloy8155 +12?!?!? Jesus, actually made for climbing.

    • @tonymonbetsu2563
      @tonymonbetsu2563 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ​@@pirishjthat's crazy he looks nine feet tall watching him climb

    • @LeonxLeon
      @LeonxLeon ปีที่แล้ว

      @@tonymonbetsu2563 I had the same feeling, had to double check !!

  • @LongBoy.0
    @LongBoy.0 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    I laughed out loud at so many times. especially "they're showing sleeping lion tonight, so I can steal all the betas" lmfao

  • @jyb9243
    @jyb9243 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Forza !! Pure style Stefano. La fluidité et la technique font presque oublier la difficulté de cette voie. Jorge is really powerfull and good technician too ! Thanks guys for inspire and dream

    • @Dr4cKs______
      @Dr4cKs______ 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Amazing climbers....jorge is really good guy 💪

  • @simonechiste1855
    @simonechiste1855 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    Conditions are perfect - 10 secs later - will be hard with this conditions 😂

  • @gobl-analienabductedbyhuma5387
    @gobl-analienabductedbyhuma5387 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wonderful as always Stefano. You're radiating joy, easiness and good feelings, thanks for that! It means a lot

  • @TomOHalloranAus
    @TomOHalloranAus ปีที่แล้ว +5

    What do you think the breakdown of grades for those sections would be? Would love to try/do this someday 😀. Looks awesome

    • @sambeard4428
      @sambeard4428 ปีที่แล้ว

      You definitely should tom! This seems to fit your board climbing training also!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sambeard4428 would love to make it happen!

    • @philippegustau9120
      @philippegustau9120 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sharma said in his video that it was basically a four part boulder problem climb with ok-ish rests in between : V11-V12-V11-V11 or V11-V11-V12-V11.

  • @riptonik
    @riptonik ปีที่แล้ว +1

    2 nice guys, climbing beasts!!! It's nice to watch few climbers in one video/one route, you can see their different moves and climbing styles.

  • @a-j.2002
    @a-j.2002 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Wow, Jorge is becoming scary good.
    I'm halfway through the video and don't know how many times he's tried this route, but he's really young and looking elite already.

  • @urbanprah
    @urbanprah ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I'm not a huge fan of stereo with 2 different sources. Nice video, figuring out beta so quickly is so impressive.

  • @Freeriderau2
    @Freeriderau2 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Are there chipped holds on the sleeping lion? And if - who chipped them?

    • @steghiso
      @steghiso  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      there's just some sika to reinforce holds that otherwise would break

    • @Freeriderau2
      @Freeriderau2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@steghiso Ok i see! So thats not chipping! In my opinion thats totaly ok and no change of the natural rockface...Thank you for the Info :) Rock on :)

    • @jipe4153
      @jipe4153 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sika is modification too

    • @Freeriderau2
      @Freeriderau2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@jipe4153ja but in a way of conserving the natural rockface. So not that bad...

    • @jipe4153
      @jipe4153 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Freeriderau2 the natural rock face is always changing, change is the only natural, and you are now interfering with that.
      Wherein lies the challenge if the mountain cannot win?

  • @tylerleedom
    @tylerleedom ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Thanks for showing us another one of Chris’s King lines

  • @davidforman4080
    @davidforman4080 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    7:16 is a wow move (non-climber here)
    18:37 same

  • @rodrigoaisen736
    @rodrigoaisen736 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love to see these 3 together. Awesome climbers trying a legendary route. Thank you for sharing.

  • @alwaysthink1st
    @alwaysthink1st ปีที่แล้ว +27

    sorry for the controversial question, but the siurana guidebook from 2023 has a note about the route having chipped or otherwise manufactured holds. what are your thoughts about this?

    • @xandutheil67
      @xandutheil67 ปีที่แล้ว +15

      La Dura Dura is also shipped. Not unusual on sharmas routes

    • @Rankidu
      @Rankidu ปีที่แล้ว +21

      18:09, you can see a drilled hole being used as a pocket

    • @ClimbingADK
      @ClimbingADK ปีที่แล้ว +11

      In my opinion if the bolts are installed and the climb is not possible but is close, manufacturing a hold is not the worst thing you can do. Not ideal but better that it can be climbed than the bolts just sit in the cliff on an impossible line

    • @dylbinawesomeperson
      @dylbinawesomeperson ปีที่แล้ว +4

      So is the chris Sharma rrg classic thug life

    • @ClimbingADK
      @ClimbingADK ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Bolting with the intent of chipping is a definite no go. In my opinion it is like placing a bolt on an unprotect-able section of a mostly trad climb. Better that it can be climbed, but loses points for impure ethics.

  • @wkealy1302
    @wkealy1302 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Fun to hear the belayer yelling allez, venga, and come on all in the same breath.

    • @asdzt123
      @asdzt123 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      and dai dai

  • @MichaelJones-rs5ce
    @MichaelJones-rs5ce ปีที่แล้ว

    So cool seeing the process of an elite climber projecting a top-tier route, cheers for the quality content!

  • @johnarinehart
    @johnarinehart ปีที่แล้ว +30

    Cool to see a younger climber trying this route. It just goes to show how much of a beast Chris is, the man still has a lot of gas in the tank!

    • @johnarinehart
      @johnarinehart ปีที่แล้ว

      Also nice to see Felipe Camargo in the video.

    • @stefslyfe
      @stefslyfe ปีที่แล้ว

      Isn’t stefano 30? Or did you just mean younger than Chris?

    • @johnarinehart
      @johnarinehart ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@stefslyfe I meant younger than Chris

  • @achjo123456
    @achjo123456 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video, try to work on this one during this winter..such a nice line..

  • @chillpurr275
    @chillpurr275 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video, thanks Stefano and everybody else involved!

  • @kevedwards
    @kevedwards ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome dude, been desperate to see more of this route and super cool Chris is there for support, as someone whose a similar age to Chris “actually 41 today” he’s my main inspiration for hard climbing as well as the obvious beasts like Neil Gresham, Dave McCloud, Steve McClure to name a few.

    • @blubblubwhat
      @blubblubwhat 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Istn he 31? Almost same age^^

  • @aidanscarffe5256
    @aidanscarffe5256 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Amazing footage! would love to know how it felt compared to megos's ratstaman vibrations in Ceuse. Both look like they have dynamic bouldery sections. Obviously this is longer

  • @marc5279
    @marc5279 ปีที่แล้ว

    great vid! i fast forwarded up to the middle part to skip all the siurana climbing festival intro but soon realized there was none :) Full climbing from minute zero

  • @tinopack4152
    @tinopack4152 ปีที่แล้ว

    so amazing, thank you soo much for sharing this with us, its so nice to see how you start the progress of a project. thank you

  • @frezh4011
    @frezh4011 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Jorge should be included in the video title!

  • @SuperCraft1999
    @SuperCraft1999 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super cool man. I watched you on the first day trying the route. I loved your presentation as well at the festival and it was really nice meeting you after.

  • @betwixt3193
    @betwixt3193 ปีที่แล้ว

    The route looks cool, not just hard! Jorge sends up the best vibes from below (I think I'll get my belayers to watch this as an instructional video on how to inspire/support a climber)

  • @brendanacord
    @brendanacord ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, the moves are so cool! Hope you can make it back to try it over the winter, thanks for sharing!

  • @greeboart
    @greeboart ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for the great video Stefano. This is what climbing videos should be like.

  • @Daniel-jz7uf
    @Daniel-jz7uf 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Good stuff as always 💪🙏. What’s the benefit of knot that you are using, beside figure eight?

    • @chrizz126
      @chrizz126 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Its always easy to undoe

  • @jordi95
    @jordi95 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    It is nice to see Jorge trying the route with you

  • @3DP4
    @3DP4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love the part of " im here with the jorge diaz rullo". You miss the firs of his name and the only and the one ❤

  • @jasonsterner922
    @jasonsterner922 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great Filming & Great Editing!!!!!!!! Amazing climbing!!! Chris awesome route!!!

  • @GP-ox5yg
    @GP-ox5yg ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Video dell’anno steee, sei un mostro

  • @AR_434
    @AR_434 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Another stunner by Chris!

  • @riedstep
    @riedstep ปีที่แล้ว

    how many pulls a day to you get on stuff like this?

  • @MetroCrunch
    @MetroCrunch ปีที่แล้ว

    So is nobody going to mention the scream at 2:57?

  • @Nubedeldesatardecer
    @Nubedeldesatardecer ปีที่แล้ว

    No, ma che tecnici Stefano e Jorge, sono impressionato dalla solidità e dalla casualità del passaggio chiave. a parte un'ottima edizione

  • @alexandermarkweber1814
    @alexandermarkweber1814 ปีที่แล้ว

    What is Stefano's tie in? A double bowline?

    • @alexandermarkweber1814
      @alexandermarkweber1814 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Whoops, I meant a re-threaded bowline

    • @nicolaibatstad6881
      @nicolaibatstad6881 ปีที่แล้ว

      Correct. Re-threaded bowline is a common tie-in knot in Germany and Austria (and probably more). Utilized also by Jakob Schubert.@@alexandermarkweber1814

  • @simonjenkins9296
    @simonjenkins9296 ปีที่แล้ว

    Anyone else curious what happened off camera at 3:00!?

  • @joshuadonovan3812
    @joshuadonovan3812 ปีที่แล้ว

    what kinda band do you have around your right bicep?

  • @santiagosalcedo7909
    @santiagosalcedo7909 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Vaya dos se han juntado.

  • @patrickbryant_
    @patrickbryant_ ปีที่แล้ว

    So cool to see this process!

  • @radioleta
    @radioleta ปีที่แล้ว

    What's the strap stefano is wearing in his arm?

    • @steghiso
      @steghiso  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      It's a heart rate monitor band from Coros

  • @pietrodp81
    @pietrodp81 ปีที่แล้ว

    Last Stefano's attempt was inpressive, for being just jn the second day on the route. He just nailed the difficult link. This is by any means no guarantee of success any time soon, but with a few days more there.. who knows

  • @sambeard4428
    @sambeard4428 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    chris really knows how to climb HARD

  • @limekrhythm6749
    @limekrhythm6749 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    you exported the video with wrong panning on the audio channels. Sometimes the belayer and climber are panned left and right and not mid. Its noticeable on headphones. Greetings from a video editor ;) still great video

  • @biomorphic
    @biomorphic ปีที่แล้ว

    What a nice surprise! Does it look harder than Bibliographie?

  • @Jagknorr
    @Jagknorr ปีที่แล้ว

    “Lie down and rest for half an hour” 😂

  • @rafaelmaturana6164
    @rafaelmaturana6164 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    did he put the quickdraws in sleeping lion after he got to the top? how is it that they are already there when he is leading?😅

    • @santiagosalcedo7909
      @santiagosalcedo7909 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      At the beginning of the video they place the quickdraws. A lot of steep routes at least here in Spain also have quickdraws places. Not here tho

    • @themeatpopsicle
      @themeatpopsicle ปีที่แล้ว +1

      draws are often placed on rappel/abseil from a top entry, or you pull on draws from bolt to bolt aid-style

    • @steghiso
      @steghiso  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I was putting them on in the first go!

  • @paulzauner6896
    @paulzauner6896 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    dude you basically flashed the crux holy shit

  • @Pepe-bu2ho
    @Pepe-bu2ho ปีที่แล้ว

    Uffff, estoy agotado solo de veros escalar……. Vaya par de bestias 🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾

  • @plamakplamak
    @plamakplamak ปีที่แล้ว

    On how many languages did the camera guy cheered Stefano? I heared 3 or 4. Best of luck guys!

  • @jarfrobinksss
    @jarfrobinksss ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I sent it first go a few weeks back...super chill route. Lemme know if you and the boys need beta ;)

    • @kevedwards
      @kevedwards ปีที่แล้ว

      With a rope though? Punter, i free soloed it……naked 😂

  • @spacecowboysucio
    @spacecowboysucio ปีที่แล้ว

    Fine line ,nice video

  • @galaxy_brain
    @galaxy_brain 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    2:59 lol

  • @josefzboril9095
    @josefzboril9095 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice video and route the music is epic

  • @SbuccioCalcio
    @SbuccioCalcio ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video!

  • @EliasClimb
    @EliasClimb ปีที่แล้ว

    Jorge Diaz se va a peinar esa ruta fijisimo 100%

  • @NickKekko
    @NickKekko ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow dude super cool video 🔥🔥

  • @10fingers1elbow
    @10fingers1elbow ปีที่แล้ว

    amazing video! ❤🔥🔥

  • @vandaleyez2
    @vandaleyez2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So cool!

  • @UrielVS
    @UrielVS ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Was this route chipped? The undercling hold looks super sus and too convenient th-cam.com/video/yX5hkFSM5JU/w-d-xo.html

    • @AndreSantos-lm3ub
      @AndreSantos-lm3ub ปีที่แล้ว

      For sure it's not a natural hold. And isn't the only one 😅

    • @steghiso
      @steghiso  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      The route has sika to reinforce holds, and in our last go we were not even using that undercling cause we found a different beta, so it would not make sense if it was chipped cause the route is possible even without it 🙂

    • @achjo123456
      @achjo123456 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good to know, I believed, Chris would not do that..@@steghiso

  • @ginpatsusamurai
    @ginpatsusamurai ปีที่แล้ว

    sickest vid I've seen in a while

  • @tribunalx1471
    @tribunalx1471 ปีที่แล้ว

    I said . 👑 That Chris. 👑
    That has the hardest roads in the world!

  • @nerdennada
    @nerdennada ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice video, it's like to be there!

  • @crispycrimps865
    @crispycrimps865 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    In case anyone's wondering, this goes at 9B+ or 5.15c

    • @songxu5286
      @songxu5286 ปีที่แล้ว

      Looks much easier than la dura dura TBH

  • @Reeenald
    @Reeenald 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    browni, browni = drop knee hahah fantastic

  • @massimomanca6454
    @massimomanca6454 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ciao Stefano guarda che gli integratori che hai presentato non vengono spediti in Europa

  • @Dexter-lk8if
    @Dexter-lk8if ปีที่แล้ว

    So strong!!

  • @Cwfs01
    @Cwfs01 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ever planning on trying DNA?

  • @tribunalx1471
    @tribunalx1471 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Masterpice 9b+/c. Pure Lion in you!

    • @chaozzah
      @chaozzah ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I reckon 9b+ from this. He is making so much progress in links compared to Silence. But in the end, you need to do the entire thing, so we'll know in time :)

  • @bb1039
    @bb1039 ปีที่แล้ว

    bring Ondra, Zeb, Yoshiyuki and Schubeert too.

  • @mynameisalex_
    @mynameisalex_ ปีที่แล้ว

    And thus, the Sleeping Lion group chat was born.

  • @matteos.3438
    @matteos.3438 ปีที่แล้ว

    Bellissimo!

  • @pietro.granati
    @pietro.granati ปีที่แล้ว

    💥 fuori di testa

  • @Duderos
    @Duderos ปีที่แล้ว +4

    King Sharma just has the eye for bomber routes!
    The fanboy in me just hopes the 9b+ grade stays ... i am little doubtful though tbh judging by how quick progress stefano made ...

    • @lidontlo
      @lidontlo ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Stefano is probably one of the most well rounded and strong 9b+ climbers out there. He is definitely not the right person to say “it’s not 9b+ cause he progressed quickly”. At the same time as more climbers and betas come at this route I’m sure a downgrade can be found. Chris climbed in his style and graded it based off that.

    • @Duderos
      @Duderos ปีที่แล้ว

      I hope you are right, but on no other 9b+ he tried, did he think about making gos at the third day. So we'll see@@lidontlo

  • @nachob5107
    @nachob5107 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    2:59 hahahahahahahaha

  • @bedewest
    @bedewest ปีที่แล้ว

    anyone else getting odd left right audio?

  • @tristanfransen5565
    @tristanfransen5565 ปีที่แล้ว

    Music is sick!

  • @paulzauner6896
    @paulzauner6896 ปีที่แล้ว

    craaaaaazy link!

  • @LeonardoYoshimitsu
    @LeonardoYoshimitsu ปีที่แล้ว

    great vid (but audio isn't well balanced)

  • @fikretyaman1792
    @fikretyaman1792 ปีที่แล้ว

    yeap these guys are stronger than anyone and pro. However stefano started from 3-4 moves in second crux (main one) and linked all the way to the end of thirth crux at his thirth try of this route. For sure downgrade will come .

  • @AdventureswithAixe596
    @AdventureswithAixe596 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well, I guess the lion is not sleeping anymore ;)

  • @antoniosulas8886
    @antoniosulas8886 ปีที่แล้ว

    Un meme a 3:00🤣🤣

  • @indiansist6474
    @indiansist6474 ปีที่แล้ว

    🫂💋🫂
    🙏💎🌎
    🏹💙🕉
    Unos Amigos Iniciaron èste Proyecto.
    Siurana Escuela Internacional de Escalada.
    Toni Arbonès i Miriam su compañera.
    Conozco estas Paredes ...
    He parado para Admirar còmo remontan un 8 A...Que Belleza🙏💖.
    Dank qu well

  • @stacky512a
    @stacky512a 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Est-ce que ce type peut se taire, s'il vous plaît ?