A few other wild facts here; 3" exhaust, with both wastegates re-routed back in, restrictive Apexi N1 catback( snorkels down to 2.25" tubing at the twin catback), intercooler isn't that big & its tube and fin, intercooler piping is ovaled down 2.5". Would love to see those get changed, but Rob needs to focus on the 12 rotor and pikes peak.
I'm not a rotary guy or mechanic. I tinker on NA 4 bangers. But i never miss a video of Robs. The only Utuber that explains engines, cncing, wiring, suspension setups, welding. Well everything to a understandable degree. Clear, concise. He just make u think out of the box and reasons for the way things work. Hats off bro.
Rob is awesome, but there are many other youtubers that explain stuff in such a way that even a moron like me can understand it. Al from The Skid Factory, Rich from Deboss and Nik & Richard from Bad Obsession Motorsport come to mind. edit: and if you think that the 4 rotor has been long in the making, then check out Project Binky.
@@pirkkaruuska5766 i watch skid factory, great also for turbos and alike. been a while since i watch binky and the boys at Bad Obs...all great, but Rob is soothing..lol
Shout out to the J man for the editing on this video, bouncing around from different shoots to get all of robs wild details in a smooth chronological explanation is no small feat ❤
I work in tech, and the entire time you're talking about the Trigger, my brain kept hearing "It was DNS... it's always DNS." Really loved the breakdown of fuel/air moving through the engine. I don't tune engines or anything, it was just awesome seeing it explained that way.
There are only a couple TH-camrs that I’m excited every single time they upload. Rob is by far the most exciting even when it’s something small. You keep my dream alive while not being able to complete it myself due to life. Thank you Rob for everything you do for us! We appreciate it all!
The only other automotive TH-camr/builder/racer that explains this kind of stuff in such a detailed and bottom line way aside from Rob, in my opinion, is Steve Morris. I’m pretty sure many people would agree in saying that Rob Dahm is the Steve Morris of rotary engines.
Not by a long shot! I love Rob's stuff, his videos, his builds ect. but come on. One is like the ultimate unlimited budget ADHD hobby man who's doing amazing things. The other is an all time legend who's won so many championships its hard to keep track of, and creates engines from scratch that go out and win countless local events. When Rob starts sell us his own design, all billet rotaries then maybe he'll be like 1/8th of Steve Morris. I'm not hating at all, just looking at the facts.
@@bennyb.1742 Don’t get me wrong, I fully agree with you. Im not trying to take away from Steve Morris or hold Rob Dahm up like he is a god or anything but when you look at both of them on the ground floor, their are quite similar. Steve Morris has poured his entire being into learning everything he can, building an absolute empire from nothing, testing his engines and parts relentlessly to find the weak point, then making revision after revision to produce a rock solid product that he is proud to put his name on and stand behind 100%. All while never trying to bs you, show you the raw data and explain absolutely everything. Yes Steve Morris is at the top level that not many people will ever get close to. Rob holds the exact same core values that Steve does. Rob lets his data do the talking the same as Steve. Rob is on the ground floor of building his empire. They both started from pretty much nothing with a passion for automotive and they are chasing their dreams never giving up and never trying to bs anyone. They let the data do the talking. I apologize for this being so long winded, I wanted to explain in more detail why I see them as being fundamentally equals when you remove all the awards and fame, (that have been rightfully earned) and see them as dedicated mad scientists with a burning passion.
Blessings Rob bro, i have an s4 block since 2022 dyno test with 605whp, almost used daily, p/s, a/c. Completely stock s4 intake manifold and throttle, it cruise like stock and handles 25psi with snow meth kit. My 605whp went al 6,480 rpm. And 496lbs torque. Stock heavy flywheel, 1050 inyector dynamic primaries, 2200 original bosch secondarys, microtech lt10c management, precision turbo 7675 with .96 a/r. And this is a small part of the ingredients. Thanks Rob!! Blessings bro! Rotary for life. Puerto Rico 🇵🇷 love rotarys.
I'm someone that have been following Rob since 2020, I initially looked at him a bit as "lets see how far this fool will get", like this guy knows nothing but in a friendly way. Today, I wanna say that this video has been the best one Rob has ever released, very informative, very clear, very knowledgeable. I can say today that I'm impressed and in a way "proud" of Rob progress in his Dorito career. Thank you Rob for sharing your knowledge and learnt lessons with the community.
I’m a 4g63 (Evo) and now a ( 740hp) 4.7 TT Mercedes guy. Been at it for 25 years. I’ve watched your videos for years now and love how humble you stay and yet how knowledgeable you continue to become and grow. You’re the only YT’r that I feel like is a completely relatable person and one I keep cumming back to (har har har) Keep at it Rob .
This video is so helpful for an FC S4 owner. I watch all of Rob's videos but pay special attention the these ones. This gives me hope that I can make my FC an absolute rocket when it get a restoration/rebirth ❤ your work and keep it up.
Check out the Motul Micro oil for premixing, it’s made for R/C nitro engines and may be suitable for your needs. Also yes, decent/oversized even, wiring is always needed for fuel pumps, overlooked many times. Going from the supplied tefzel to 6mm copper cable for that 525 Walbro pump let us remove 10% fuel over the whole map, sounded higher pitched when running etc.
Would consider doing a live stream of a tuning session and kinda just show the process of tuning the car? It would be really informative, especially if you built the whole map from the start. I’ve never seen anyone really do that besides hp academy if you buy it.
If you want to do this from the first stages, it would take many many many hours, probably days doing it in a livestream. You have to dot all your i's and cross your t's before you can do the next step. While you are doing this as fast as you can, you spend many hours checking "mundane things" swapping parts, calculating and such. This is all the ground work required that is required to finally have a good "tuning session" on the dyno. Ask any dyno shop; most people that aren't experienced that show up, get sent home to re-do their prep work without getting much performance to show for it during the session. Just showing the dyno bit without showing everything required to make it successful will be not be an accurate depiction of "the process of tuning the car". Having said all this, doing a series on the road to the dyno session and closing it off with that session would be super awesome.
Rob, I love all of the insane builds from the 3, 4, and 12 rotor but this FC is by far my favorite car of yours. It’s my favorite generation of rx7 and your work on it has been amazing to watch.
The production quality on each of these videos is insane considering it’s just another TH-cam video. Definitely setting the standard for quality when it comes to automotive videos👏🏼
Sir, super impressed at where your heads at now compared to a few years ago. Learning about how stuff works and learning why it works are not the same thing. This approach on showing why your results are what they are is probably going to net you some real die hard followers. Hopefully they too will also take the time to learn how and why things work the way they do and gets rid of people copying and pasting everyone else's hard work. Glad you have the platform to say this is what the deal is... keep on keeping on🤙
I don't know where this shoot sits in the pikes peak run timeline but I really appreciate the explainers you do. Goated not just for rotaries but as a car channel in general.
I appreciate the tidbit about the short pulsewidth adder, showing the table. The file I downloaded from ID has percentages, but the table was wanting ms. I initially ignored the "adder" language and thought it wanted the full value to use instead (which is my interpretation of their kb article defining "effective pulse width") but I found that I only needed to take one step to input the additional amount rather than the total. I don't even have a rotary, but just having the screen shown allowed me to do a sanity check.
My first car was a 1987 RX7 base model. The apex seals blew and that was the end of the motor. Sadly, no mechanic in the area would touch that car. Being 18 or 19 at the time, I couldn't afford to keep it until I found someone to fix it. I cried when the tow truck came to pick the car up. I'm almost 37 and I still have a massive love for rotaries. I do hope they make a comback one day. I doubt it since the EPA is so strict now. The RX-8 was a good example of what could have been, but sadly those had a lot of premature engine failures.
👍👍First time I've ever heard a tuner mention running softer ignition settings on lower compression engines, especially on E85. All the 90's-2000's turbo JDM cars were low compression and a lot of tuners tend to lean on that ignition curve because its not pinging. But its not making any more power either. But in a piston engine, it does tend to lift the head instead of making power, and yes keep all that heat in the engine.
He is so good at selling you information, and since is for free you just keep wanting more and more... I don't even have a rotary, but it helps you shape your way of thinking and conside things that you could have missed, he is trully a good teacher.
Taking notes for no reason? What that says is, you have nothing in YOUR actual life that you care about as much as you care about a stranger's actual life.
I had asked about the injector timing on a previous video, so getting that discussion was awesome, but the timing and lambda tables you use opened up my eyes as well. My 1987 Non-turbo FC is about to cross 100,000 original miles (car sat for 14 years, thanks USAF) I had been running it at 23 degrees across the board, compared to your 17 out of boost, as well as your discussion about how timing in cruse is not that important, am going to have to take a look at it. I've been able to get 32 mpg on flat terrain, but the moment hills start getting involved, I see it drop to around 26. I do not have easy access to a dyno, so had been turning my timing by setting my AFR to 13 across the board, doing several trips while maintaining speed limit at all times. Change entire map 1 degree, record GPS data, and seeing that areas I needed less throttle (car has been converted to a 100% mustang TPS sensor) I figure that using less throttle, means that you are making more power at the flat and hill locations and have been tuning from that kind of data. With your previous video showing how off the front and rear rotors were AFR wise, it also made me wonder about an issue I was getting on overrun where the single O2 sensor I have was jumping up and down, but only in overrun, might be that I am getting stream AFR variations on front and rear as well. I just sent my other car (97 Turbo Miata) engine block in to get it machined, so once I get up and running again, can start ripping into my RX7 and create a turbo system for it.
sadly i dont recall the video but Rob once spoke about fuel and that it has to be either E85 or E100, other fuels have either too high octane or are too junk and cause the rotors to get covered in carbon/dirty. If you watch his other videos youll notice that his rotor faces are even almost shiny looking, like new.
Love the Rob tuning school. I learned on a power fc and switched to an elite 1500. It's an information overload. Would love to see more videos on tuning tips
I just had an idea for getting to the bottom of the oem vs aftermarket manifold. We have full power comparisons. Great. Now for the low throttle percentage torque measurements. Process: On the oem plenum Figure out what TPS% the secondary throttle start to open. Let say 20%tps- to avoid the secondaries intruding we should aim for 17%TPS. Now dyno the torque in 3rd gear at 17%tps. For both plenums. I want to see the difference from the higher velocity on just primaries.
3:20 you can do the dowel upgrade, but you need guts and a specific tool and patience. You need an expandable reamer (that has the right beach to work on, cause they're not infinitely expanding) and you need some method to make sure you're going in straight. I have, in the past, introduced these reamers in existing holes, un-expanded, and then expanded them slowly, taking just hair shavings off, but you need an even more specific reamer, the gun barrel expandable reamer, which is not only long, but also very accurate across its length. With a regular expandable reamer, you have to use a drill press (a good one) so you can keep going in and out, and average out the losses. edit: oh and you need lots of oil and a good tap wrench. I'm not kidding with the oil. You have to bathe that reamer in it.
I've loved the Wankel from the first gen RX-3. It's the "snarl" of the exhaust notes, although I have to say I love the sound of an aggressive cam in a big block V-8 as well! If I had the $$ I'd put a 13B (maybe a 20B) into a jet boat, one of the short keeled river runners that usually run a Rotax rather than a sprint racer.
Fuel pumps also work in a way that people don't realize. I have a 7.2 liter that gets around 10mpg...until you drop the pedal to the floor then the pump goes in to truly massive work mode. Do not cheap out or underestimate your fuel demands.
Finally someone is actually measuring the air pressures and temps on both sides of the intercooler. Now you mentioned another key item, and that the heat of the exhaust is power. Ok then increase your power two ways at one time, and hows that. Simple wrapping the entire exhaust going to the turbo, and wherever the exhaust is still inside the engine compartment. This does two things, one it does in fact increase the speed of the tubo by suppling more powerful exhaust pressure due to increasing the hot exhaust blasting the turbo thus spinning the compressor wheel faster creating more boost. Secondly, by reducing the temperature inside the engine compartment, and this does two things in itself. Reduces engine soaking as much heat from the heat radiating from the exposed exhaust and the hot side of the turbo that needs a blanket same as exhaust needs wrapping. Which it lowers engine compartment temperature then you reduce heat transfer to the cold intake pipes, and the manifold itself. So why not wrap the cold side too, and help it even more. Win win situation all the way around. Another thought try to make entering and leaving your intercooler dead center, and by doing so, you increase the air flow through it, and reduce the static pressure caused by the restriction caused by frocing air through just a portion of the intercooler. Where as if the intercooler is designed correctly then there's a even flow of air across the entire tube sheet, and the air is allowed to loose more heat to the cooler air moving across the outside of the tube sheet fins
Not gonna lie, I've got a lil' old stick Protege that I've been very slowly restoring, but Dahm's got me to the point of seriously considering rotary-swapping my Mazda, maybe in the next few years...
Wow man what a video, Im blown away on your info, editing and content of said info. I will definitely save this for the future when I do this one day keep going man if you keep going in thid direction like you did with this video you will be huge but that's not the point! Everybody deserves to learn this info about tuning so everybody could be better❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉
Appreciate you sharing as always. I am planning my 700hp build currently. Glad you confirmed a lot of what you did. I have a lot of questions I send over if you dont mind. OMP removed? Only pump e85 and no AI? Did you have 4x 2600cc or just 2 secondaries? Looks like a street car. Did you run into any limits with R3 outputs-fuel pumps, fans, etc? I will have to go back and look at your fuel pump setup. I was planning on 2 hellcats, but i see you called that out directly. Lol
OMP removed. i would do omp pulling from a reservoir as an alternative but all my cars premix. 21700s and 2 2600s total on the entire car. R3 isnt for running lights etc so you have the 4 25 amp outputs and a couple half bridge outputs for drive by wire or electric wastegates. I loved the hellcat pumps but they suck down the power massively.
Totally agree with what you are saying and that why I try to get the ambient air into the intake and not air that has passes through the intercooler and or radiator. Also I wanted to know if there was any testing of premix fuel with regard to autoignition temperature. Love your work and the detail that you show us novices. Thank you and your team, keep up the good work.
Hi Rob, Castor 927(2 stroke oil) will not seperate in Methanol. I haven't tried in ethanol. Worth a shot, it's cheap and can find it at all dirt bike shops. Also It's worth mentioning that pre mix oil affects fuel calculations as the oil is taking up mass in the injector charge so your actual amount of fuel will be less than if there was no oil mix. It's probably a more pronounced effect in the 2 stroke dirt bike world as some manufacturers recommend 60:1 and some guys run 32:1 or 20:1, so that's way less fuel entering the combustion chamber.
17:37 Sounds just like someone ranting on SR and RBs, the stock optical Nissan CAS is such a nightmare, causing tons of uncessary and "random" hard to diagnose issues. A good crank trigger just makes the engine feels smooth, solid and responsive. Definitely going to make a custom crank trigger setup for my 13BT2 for my new FB build as well.
Great video. I will probably never be able to build mine because I'd go to jail or die if I had 700whp, but this is great information for anyone mildly responsible that wants a sick rotary!
20:00 I think this is the first time I've ever seen someone in the automotive mainstream on youtube talk about non-linear pulse width response. Though I don't have a wankel powered car it makes sense that low rpm operation with big injectors will be even worse than with the 4cyls I was dealing with. When I cut my teeth on tuning my first turbo 4cyl with big injectors and found out most people just ignore it and idle at 12:1 or something ridiculous and run super rich through all low rpm transients to avoid surging and idle hunting and such. I had to characterize my injectors myself through trial and error, I couldn't afford ID or FIC and just had siemens deka or deatschwerks junk back then! I maintain that making power is easy. Making power with back to back WOT runs on the dyno are so simple a monkey can do it, but idling well, cold staring well, not stalling at lights, not bogging when the AC kicks on, not being jerky at partial throttle during transients, getting good fuel economy, that's what separates a good tune from a dyno tune.
Who is this “Rob Dahm?” I’m old and might have memory loss, but I remember watching videos by a guy named Rob Dahm, who didn’t know much about rotary motors, and was just amazed and full of wonder every single moment! This guy is a rotary motor EXPERT. But I’m glad to still see that joy and wonder! ❤️
That's what you want to see from an intake upgrade on any engine. More power at the same boost but more importantly less boost when you max out the turbo. The important thing to take away from that is a turbo isn't limited by boost it's limited by airflow. When the same amount of airflow has less resistance you make less boost. Too many people ask "how much boost?" without understanding what it really entails. A stock 5.3 ls at 25 lbs of boost is gonna make a lot less power than the same 5.3 with nice heads/cam/intake/turbo system etc. with the same displacement.
You'll enjoy watching robs last video (I think..) he's definitely said exactly that in one of the recent ones. Almost verbatim 😅 thought you were quoting. Enjoy the validation!
@@blitzroute66 lol he did didn't he? I legitimately forgot about that. It's just something I find myself explaining a lot. I'm in the restaurant industry and just a few weeks ago I was talking to our high school aged host about it.
This feels like college again.. love all the information. Definitely gonna be rewatching this like 12 times. I have the turbo, 4 port manifolds, fuel system, intercooler system, and Haltech 1500 for my 1988 GTU (6 Port NA.) Is there any opinion on the IGN-1A coils vs LS Coils in terms of cost/performance/availability. The biggest hurdle for me is it's a perfectly running 70k mile 13B, trying to be the least intrusive to the keg itself. I honestly just want to make 300hp!
Watching this video really makes me want to build something with a 13b now lol Hey Rob, when are you going to build a big power supercharged rotary? I've always been curious about what the limits are as far as supercharger size(and resulting parasitic drag) vs engine size. Would be pretty interesting to see what a 13b does with like a 3.0l Whipple twin screw or a Vortech YSi centrifugal attached to the crank.
Interesting info on Turblown's upper intake manifold. I know this video is 6 months old, but Rob, have you been given the chance to test out Turblown's lower intake manifold to get the full package? They do put alot of research in the products.
This is a great video, lots of technical info. 0.81 Lambda at 20psi boost sounds aggressive for a turbo rotary IMHO, I'm guessing this was on E85 and not pump fuel?
I’ve been working on a six port turbo in my SA. I’ll also admit I really haven’t been following Rob. So imagine my pleasure to see that im running Injector Dynamics, Haltech, DCPower and 10awg for my fuel pump. Sorry, brushless is out of my budget.
I'm learning to build RX-8. I will use electric super/turbocharger, it's the real deal running on 48V lithium battery that works like nitrous surge. What is the safe amount of boost or whp with stock internals? Should i change the rotor using the RX-7 or i can just use aftermarket seal on RX-8 rotors? What other thing should i consider for boosting RX-8?
The rotary has the best torque curve for cornering your race tires won't pop v8 and about pops racing tires while accelerating out of corners during position battles with rotary bank on smooth acceleration and maintain momentum the 3 and 5 mph speed difference through corner adds up if you're consistent your track car pulls away 👍
I am assuming that the rest of the car won't do 700hp on the wheels without mods. Can you do a no BS video on clutch, gearbox, driveshaft, diff and axles to accompany this?
I can put this video on my preteen niece's random playlist & it will still be easy and enjoyable edu-creation walkthrough, prop's to the legend himself!
I use lucus 2 stroke motor oil at 2oz per gallon and have no problem with smoking and the inside of the motor was super clean when I rebuilt it due to a oil pressure spike
Perfect place to go over pump laws: if you want to pump twice the flow, the pump has to spin 4 times as fast and take 8 times the power. They are related exponentially. 3 x flow ~ 9 x rpm ~ 27 x power.
Thanks Rob! This is right where I'm at building my 2nd gen. I went BW turbo but same idea. Your thoughts on the brushless fuel pump have me convinced. I'm still thinking about injector sizes but seeing what the Haltech can do with the bigger injectors gives me a little confidence in trying them. I'm after more around 450hp, but will still get a set of the Turblown studs just for peace of mind on torquing them correctly vs the tension bolts. Good stuff, I appreciate what you put out for those of us that still love these things. 500k miles and 8 rx-7s later and I cant seem to find any other cars I like more.
What are you doing to keep the "fireballs" on decel to a minimum? Also, Awsome video, you broke down some pretty complex ideas fairly simply and showed the numbers! Bravo!
wanted to know what your thoughts on the hybrid renesis builds was. removing the exhaust restriction by using a 13b-rew housing seems like an absolute win for the renesis community but im sure you have a much finer eye for these things.
I Have to say this channel has evolved immensely a credit to y’all well done Rob I’m sure I knocked you once in the early days for something in the comments and I regret it and eat my words your a very impressive young man 🇦🇺 👍🤟🤙
"Rich or lean fuel mixture doesn't affect power. Your own sponsor Haltech made a video proving that" It does- Just not much. On a 400~ WHP 13b powered car youd maybe see 5-10~ WHP from leaning it out (getting right to the point before knock). Problem is your combustion chambers fly through the roof, and you dramatically run the risk of predet / grenading the engine, which simply isnt worth the risk for the maybe, *maybe*, 10 hp you might see from running it dangerously close. Just richen it up and let it run safe.
Hey rob loved the video and your knowledge with these engines. I have a 2005 rx8 with a 1.3 2 rotor I was wondering what would be my best plug and play tune. Been getting into auto crossing..
Can youtube at button to like a video even more than once. Rob has talked about sharing knowledge for years and years and has. But I don't think he's ever gone this far and been like this is my map, Go make happiness. Makes me want a another Rotary so much more. One of these days!!!!!!!!!!
I also want to know? I had a engine with 300 HP or less and it had rotors that had clearly hit the irons in the exact place that people clearance aka just below the corner seals?? I was told by Rob at pineapple racing to clearance every engine and stud or dowel and Ballance if you can afford it and our racing it??? Idk I'm interested to see what master robs input is????
Side clearencing has nothing to do with hp but more for RPM. Rob is peaking his HP at 7k and letting off at 8.5. If you plan on reving past 8.5k on a regular, then clearancing can help.
On the 3 rotor they arent side clearanced and i can see where they make love to the irons. But i spin that engine up almost to 10k often. like rotaryperfection said if its in the normal power band and under 8700 no worries about it. But high rpm definitely a must
LOL i actually dont know what that means. the only time my parents ever gave me money was 4k for college and i spent it on the FC starting this whole addiction. And i have connections because i built this channel. Not the reverse. i didnt know a damn thing or person related to cars and my old videos definitely confirm that haha
Wow you guys love this dude. You’ll probably hate on me for this. “Were stopping everything to work on the 12 rotor…”. I just want to see and hear it run ok!
A few other wild facts here; 3" exhaust, with both wastegates re-routed back in, restrictive Apexi N1 catback( snorkels down to 2.25" tubing at the twin catback), intercooler isn't that big & its tube and fin, intercooler piping is ovaled down 2.5". Would love to see those get changed, but Rob needs to focus on the 12 rotor and pikes peak.
@buildaboiworkshopit’s the minimum and at 700hp and 30psi it’s a huge restriction.
Rob got too many sidequests for his 12 rotor project and Pikes Peak main quest lol
@@rickcupola6262I'm going to start describing ADHD as having too many side quests. 😂
no backpressure sensor? would love to see this again with a 3.5" vibrant oval exhaust.
Is this a 12 rotor? I can't tell anymore.
I'm not a rotary guy or mechanic. I tinker on NA 4 bangers. But i never miss a video of Robs. The only Utuber that explains engines, cncing, wiring, suspension setups, welding. Well everything to a understandable degree. Clear, concise. He just make u think out of the box and reasons for the way things work. Hats off bro.
Rob is awesome, but there are many other youtubers that explain stuff in such a way that even a moron like me can understand it. Al from The Skid Factory, Rich from Deboss and Nik & Richard from Bad Obsession Motorsport come to mind. edit: and if you think that the 4 rotor has been long in the making, then check out Project Binky.
@@pirkkaruuska5766 i watch skid factory, great also for turbos and alike. been a while since i watch binky and the boys at Bad Obs...all great, but Rob is soothing..lol
rob and superfastmatt are the only youtubers whos videos i will never skip, no matter the content
@@carterbliss484 Imagine telling the public that.
Dahm gave me the interest and knowledge to start digging into my cars wiring system and making life easier.
Dudes will see a Rob Dahm upload and go "Hell Yeah"
Hell Yeah
Thats true, i did
Hell yeah
Hell yeah brother
I said Meow
Shout out to the J man for the editing on this video, bouncing around from different shoots to get all of robs wild details in a smooth chronological explanation is no small feat ❤
I work in tech, and the entire time you're talking about the Trigger, my brain kept hearing "It was DNS... it's always DNS."
Really loved the breakdown of fuel/air moving through the engine. I don't tune engines or anything, it was just awesome seeing it explained that way.
My favourite IT-related haiku:
It's not DNS
There's no way it's DNS
It was DNS
There are only a couple TH-camrs that I’m excited every single time they upload. Rob is by far the most exciting even when it’s something small. You keep my dream alive while not being able to complete it myself due to life. Thank you Rob for everything you do for us! We appreciate it all!
No one asked you, allahu akbary ma boy
31:27 - "There are a billion other details...." Me: Okay Rob, I'm ready to hear them all. Please and thank you!
The only other automotive TH-camr/builder/racer that explains this kind of stuff in such a detailed and bottom line way aside from Rob, in my opinion, is Steve Morris. I’m pretty sure many people would agree in saying that Rob Dahm is the Steve Morris of rotary engines.
I came here to say the same thing. Both legends for the amount of no BS tech info they give out.
Gale Banks shares some good stuff as well
Not by a long shot! I love Rob's stuff, his videos, his builds ect. but come on. One is like the ultimate unlimited budget ADHD hobby man who's doing amazing things. The other is an all time legend who's won so many championships its hard to keep track of, and creates engines from scratch that go out and win countless local events. When Rob starts sell us his own design, all billet rotaries then maybe he'll be like 1/8th of Steve Morris. I'm not hating at all, just looking at the facts.
@@bennyb.1742 Don’t get me wrong, I fully agree with you. Im not trying to take away from Steve Morris or hold Rob Dahm up like he is a god or anything but when you look at both of them on the ground floor, their are quite similar. Steve Morris has poured his entire being into learning everything he can, building an absolute empire from nothing, testing his engines and parts relentlessly to find the weak point, then making revision after revision to produce a rock solid product that he is proud to put his name on and stand behind 100%. All while never trying to bs you, show you the raw data and explain absolutely everything. Yes Steve Morris is at the top level that not many people will ever get close to. Rob holds the exact same core values that Steve does. Rob lets his data do the talking the same as Steve. Rob is on the ground floor of building his empire. They both started from pretty much nothing with a passion for automotive and they are chasing their dreams never giving up and never trying to bs anyone. They let the data do the talking. I apologize for this being so long winded, I wanted to explain in more detail why I see them as being fundamentally equals when you remove all the awards and fame, (that have been rightfully earned) and see them as dedicated mad scientists with a burning passion.
@@Kodaoda You are absolutely correct and I can’t believe I left out Sir Gale Banks.
anyone else love getting the notification when rob posts a video just makes me so happy
always, it means it's going to be a great day
Blessings Rob bro, i have an s4 block since 2022 dyno test with 605whp, almost used daily, p/s, a/c. Completely stock s4 intake manifold and throttle, it cruise like stock and handles 25psi with snow meth kit. My 605whp went al 6,480 rpm. And 496lbs torque. Stock heavy flywheel, 1050 inyector dynamic primaries, 2200 original bosch secondarys, microtech lt10c management, precision turbo 7675 with .96 a/r. And this is a small part of the ingredients. Thanks Rob!! Blessings bro! Rotary for life. Puerto Rico 🇵🇷 love rotarys.
Wow that's awesome bro! Any stud or dowels? I'm building a fast 13b now I have a old micro tec lt7 ECU lol. Did you tune it?
The only thing that you guys are missing in your RX7 arsenal is an FB RX7… would be real cool to see what Rob could do with a 12A engine
I agree 100%
I think that would be the fun rally car for sure!
I want to see a Cosmo build.
Love to see an RX3... or the RX5 on the hoist in one of the recent episodes.
@@RobDahm Yes.
I'm someone that have been following Rob since 2020, I initially looked at him a bit as "lets see how far this fool will get", like this guy knows nothing but in a friendly way.
Today, I wanna say that this video has been the best one Rob has ever released, very informative, very clear, very knowledgeable.
I can say today that I'm impressed and in a way "proud" of Rob progress in his Dorito career.
Thank you Rob for sharing your knowledge and learnt lessons with the community.
I’m a 4g63 (Evo) and now a ( 740hp) 4.7 TT Mercedes guy. Been at it for 25 years. I’ve watched your videos for years now and love how humble you stay and yet how knowledgeable you continue to become and grow. You’re the only YT’r that I feel like is a completely relatable person and one I keep cumming back to (har har har)
Keep at it Rob .
Evo to a merc? What a downgrade
Probably more expensive to up keep for sure. But those slk 500 our sick ASF
This video is so helpful for an FC S4 owner. I watch all of Rob's videos but pay special attention the these ones. This gives me hope that I can make my FC an absolute rocket when it get a restoration/rebirth ❤ your work and keep it up.
Check out the Motul Micro oil for premixing, it’s made for R/C nitro engines and may be suitable for your needs. Also yes, decent/oversized even, wiring is always needed for fuel pumps, overlooked many times. Going from the supplied tefzel to 6mm copper cable for that 525 Walbro pump let us remove 10% fuel over the whole map, sounded higher pitched when running etc.
The best additive is paychecks. All of them. They're VERY combustible in rotary engines.
@@ArKritz84 same goes for any car.
@@ArKritz84 🤣 very true
Finally someone who’s willing to share tuning knowledge!! ❤
Out of all the TH-camrs with a dyno I really feel Rob would produce some Dahm good content.
Would consider doing a live stream of a tuning session and kinda just show the process of tuning the car? It would be really informative, especially if you built the whole map from the start. I’ve never seen anyone really do that besides hp academy if you buy it.
If you want to do this from the first stages, it would take many many many hours, probably days doing it in a livestream. You have to dot all your i's and cross your t's before you can do the next step. While you are doing this as fast as you can, you spend many hours checking "mundane things" swapping parts, calculating and such. This is all the ground work required that is required to finally have a good "tuning session" on the dyno. Ask any dyno shop; most people that aren't experienced that show up, get sent home to re-do their prep work without getting much performance to show for it during the session. Just showing the dyno bit without showing everything required to make it successful will be not be an accurate depiction of "the process of tuning the car". Having said all this, doing a series on the road to the dyno session and closing it off with that session would be super awesome.
Rob, I love all of the insane builds from the 3, 4, and 12 rotor but this FC is by far my favorite car of yours. It’s my favorite generation of rx7 and your work on it has been amazing to watch.
The production quality on each of these videos is insane considering it’s just another TH-cam video. Definitely setting the standard for quality when it comes to automotive videos👏🏼
I cant wait to watch this 12 times. shout out the ultimate wiring guide
6 seconds, that's the fastest I've clicked on a rob video ever
Should spend some time practicing Grammar.
Oh, and I clicked it in 3 seconds so...
Sir, super impressed at where your heads at now compared to a few years ago. Learning about how stuff works and learning why it works are not the same thing. This approach on showing why your results are what they are is probably going to net you some real die hard followers. Hopefully they too will also take the time to learn how and why things work the way they do and gets rid of people copying and pasting everyone else's hard work. Glad you have the platform to say this is what the deal is... keep on keeping on🤙
I don't know where this shoot sits in the pikes peak run timeline but I really appreciate the explainers you do. Goated not just for rotaries but as a car channel in general.
I'm getting ready to have my FD tuned and this was extremely helpful.
I appreciate the tidbit about the short pulsewidth adder, showing the table. The file I downloaded from ID has percentages, but the table was wanting ms. I initially ignored the "adder" language and thought it wanted the full value to use instead (which is my interpretation of their kb article defining "effective pulse width") but I found that I only needed to take one step to input the additional amount rather than the total.
I don't even have a rotary, but just having the screen shown allowed me to do a sanity check.
The one rotor has to happen lol. No boost and boost. Let's see what you can rip from one rotor !
350hp lol.
Gotta use a go kart frame for this one
Atkins sells them.
Does a 1 rotor engine even exist, or would that require custom hardware?
My first car was a 1987 RX7 base model. The apex seals blew and that was the end of the motor. Sadly, no mechanic in the area would touch that car. Being 18 or 19 at the time, I couldn't afford to keep it until I found someone to fix it. I cried when the tow truck came to pick the car up.
I'm almost 37 and I still have a massive love for rotaries. I do hope they make a comback one day. I doubt it since the EPA is so strict now. The RX-8 was a good example of what could have been, but sadly those had a lot of premature engine failures.
👍👍First time I've ever heard a tuner mention running softer ignition settings on lower compression engines, especially on E85. All the 90's-2000's turbo JDM cars were low compression and a lot of tuners tend to lean on that ignition curve because its not pinging. But its not making any more power either. But in a piston engine, it does tend to lift the head instead of making power, and yes keep all that heat in the engine.
Why am I taking notes right now? I don't even own a rotary, but Rob makes all this info seem too important to not know lol
He is so good at selling you information, and since is for free you just keep wanting more and more...
I don't even have a rotary, but it helps you shape your way of thinking and conside things that you could have missed, he is trully a good teacher.
Taking notes for no reason? What that says is, you have nothing in YOUR actual life that you care about as much as you care about a stranger's actual life.
@@eriklarson9137 good god dude
Rob I'm at 699 hp but I'm just missing that little bit. What kind of socks do you wear while on the dyno? This will make or break my 700hp journey
I had asked about the injector timing on a previous video, so getting that discussion was awesome, but the timing and lambda tables you use opened up my eyes as well.
My 1987 Non-turbo FC is about to cross 100,000 original miles (car sat for 14 years, thanks USAF)
I had been running it at 23 degrees across the board, compared to your 17 out of boost, as well as your discussion about how timing in cruse is not that important, am going to have to take a look at it.
I've been able to get 32 mpg on flat terrain, but the moment hills start getting involved, I see it drop to around 26.
I do not have easy access to a dyno, so had been turning my timing by setting my AFR to 13 across the board, doing several trips while maintaining speed limit at all times. Change entire map 1 degree, record GPS data, and seeing that areas I needed less throttle (car has been converted to a 100% mustang TPS sensor) I figure that using less throttle, means that you are making more power at the flat and hill locations and have been tuning from that kind of data.
With your previous video showing how off the front and rear rotors were AFR wise, it also made me wonder about an issue I was getting on overrun where the single O2 sensor I have was jumping up and down, but only in overrun, might be that I am getting stream AFR variations on front and rear as well.
I just sent my other car (97 Turbo Miata) engine block in to get it machined, so once I get up and running again, can start ripping into my RX7 and create a turbo system for it.
I like that method to find power without a dyno. I think that running E85 helps him get away with aggressive numbers for both timing and lambda.
sadly i dont recall the video but Rob once spoke about fuel and that it has to be either E85 or E100, other fuels have either too high octane or are too junk and cause the rotors to get covered in carbon/dirty. If you watch his other videos youll notice that his rotor faces are even almost shiny looking, like new.
I have used DC power alternators before and always been very happy with the results. They look great, they do great power, and they're DEAD RELIABLE.
Ive always wondered how tuning a rotary works. Rob reveals so much valuable information in this video! Thanks!
Rob Dahm. Your video just helped me solve the issue i v been chasing for 3 years.
I solute you. You are the true absolute Kim Jung Eun of rotary.
Love the Rob tuning school. I learned on a power fc and switched to an elite 1500. It's an information overload. Would love to see more videos on tuning tips
I agree more tuning videos is a must
Rob, this is far and away the best video you've done. Very strong explanations on a lot of different subjects.
Bravo.
The opening seconds was an absolute BANGER‼️
I just had an idea for getting to the bottom of the oem vs aftermarket manifold.
We have full power comparisons. Great.
Now for the low throttle percentage torque measurements.
Process:
On the oem plenum Figure out what TPS% the secondary throttle start to open. Let say 20%tps- to avoid the secondaries intruding we should aim for 17%TPS.
Now dyno the torque in 3rd gear at 17%tps. For both plenums.
I want to see the difference from the higher velocity on just primaries.
3:20 you can do the dowel upgrade, but you need guts and a specific tool and patience. You need an expandable reamer (that has the right beach to work on, cause they're not infinitely expanding) and you need some method to make sure you're going in straight. I have, in the past, introduced these reamers in existing holes, un-expanded, and then expanded them slowly, taking just hair shavings off, but you need an even more specific reamer, the gun barrel expandable reamer, which is not only long, but also very accurate across its length. With a regular expandable reamer, you have to use a drill press (a good one) so you can keep going in and out, and average out the losses.
edit: oh and you need lots of oil and a good tap wrench. I'm not kidding with the oil. You have to bathe that reamer in it.
Using stock dowls is cool . Lucky my parents have a milling machine I'm going to try and dowl my next engine
@@jo-qp7mz Be sure to secure the piece down as square as possible. And good luck!!!
I've loved the Wankel from the first gen RX-3. It's the "snarl" of the exhaust notes, although I have to say I love the sound of an aggressive cam in a big block V-8 as well! If I had the $$ I'd put a 13B (maybe a 20B) into a jet boat, one of the short keeled river runners that usually run a Rotax rather than a sprint racer.
Fuel pumps also work in a way that people don't realize. I have a 7.2 liter that gets around 10mpg...until you drop the pedal to the floor then the pump goes in to truly massive work mode. Do not cheap out or underestimate your fuel demands.
Finally someone is actually measuring the air pressures and temps on both sides of the intercooler.
Now you mentioned another key item, and that the heat of the exhaust is power.
Ok then increase your power two ways at one time, and hows that.
Simple wrapping the entire exhaust going to the turbo, and wherever the exhaust is still inside the engine compartment.
This does two things, one it does in fact increase the speed of the tubo by suppling more powerful exhaust pressure due to increasing the hot exhaust blasting the turbo thus spinning the compressor wheel faster creating more boost.
Secondly, by reducing the temperature inside the engine compartment, and this does two things in itself.
Reduces engine soaking as much heat from the heat radiating from the exposed exhaust and the hot side of the turbo that needs a blanket same as exhaust needs wrapping.
Which it lowers engine compartment temperature then you reduce heat transfer to the cold intake pipes, and the manifold itself.
So why not wrap the cold side too, and help it even more.
Win win situation all the way around.
Another thought try to make entering and leaving your intercooler dead center, and by doing so, you increase the air flow through it, and reduce the static pressure caused by the restriction caused by frocing air through just a portion of the intercooler.
Where as if the intercooler is designed correctly then there's a even flow of air across the entire tube sheet, and the air is allowed to loose more heat to the cooler air moving across the outside of the tube sheet fins
The rotary community needs to support this man and his videos more. Thanks for sharing this info with us Rob.
Not gonna lie, I've got a lil' old stick Protege that I've been very slowly restoring, but Dahm's got me to the point of seriously considering rotary-swapping my Mazda, maybe in the next few years...
Thanks for always dropping great videos, it’s motivating 🤙🏼
(trying to get my turboII on the road this summer)
Wow man what a video, Im blown away on your info, editing and content of said info. I will definitely save this for the future when I do this one day keep going man if you keep going in thid direction like you did with this video you will be huge but that's not the point! Everybody deserves to learn this info about tuning so everybody could be better❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉
Hey man, long time no comment. Gotta love the "Keeps" hair continuity shots in this video. That majestic mane of hair is truly alive 😻 🚗 💨
Appreciate you sharing as always. I am planning my 700hp build currently. Glad you confirmed a lot of what you did. I have a lot of questions I send over if you dont mind. OMP removed? Only pump e85 and no AI? Did you have 4x 2600cc or just 2 secondaries? Looks like a street car. Did you run into any limits with R3 outputs-fuel pumps, fans, etc? I will have to go back and look at your fuel pump setup. I was planning on 2 hellcats, but i see you called that out directly. Lol
OMP removed. i would do omp pulling from a reservoir as an alternative but all my cars premix. 21700s and 2 2600s total on the entire car. R3 isnt for running lights etc so you have the 4 25 amp outputs and a couple half bridge outputs for drive by wire or electric wastegates. I loved the hellcat pumps but they suck down the power massively.
@@RobDahm So are you just using a TI BKS1001 pump with the external controller only? And are you using -8AN or -10AN fuel lines?
Totally agree with what you are saying and that why I try to get the ambient air into the intake and not air that has passes through the intercooler and or radiator. Also I wanted to know if there was any testing of premix fuel with regard to autoignition temperature.
Love your work and the detail that you show us novices. Thank you and your team, keep up the good work.
Hi Rob, Castor 927(2 stroke oil) will not seperate in Methanol. I haven't tried in ethanol. Worth a shot, it's cheap and can find it at all dirt bike shops.
Also It's worth mentioning that pre mix oil affects fuel calculations as the oil is taking up mass in the injector charge so your actual amount of fuel will be less than if there was no oil mix. It's probably a more pronounced effect in the 2 stroke dirt bike world as some manufacturers recommend 60:1 and some guys run 32:1 or 20:1, so that's way less fuel entering the combustion chamber.
32:1 or 20:1 is more fuel going in. 60:1 is 60parts of oil per million parts of gas. Compared to 20parts oil per million parts of gas. FYI 👍
This is the car content I craved as a child but just wasn't provided. Thanks Rob.
17:37 Sounds just like someone ranting on SR and RBs, the stock optical Nissan CAS is such a nightmare, causing tons of uncessary and "random" hard to diagnose issues. A good crank trigger just makes the engine feels smooth, solid and responsive. Definitely going to make a custom crank trigger setup for my 13BT2 for my new FB build as well.
Rob has earned his title of Rotary God through pure effort
Dyno numbers can be manipulated to anything you want. Show us some performance from any of these cars to back up the dyno numbers
Great video. I will probably never be able to build mine because I'd go to jail or die if I had 700whp, but this is great information for anyone mildly responsible that wants a sick rotary!
Loved this, great stuff!
20:00 I think this is the first time I've ever seen someone in the automotive mainstream on youtube talk about non-linear pulse width response. Though I don't have a wankel powered car it makes sense that low rpm operation with big injectors will be even worse than with the 4cyls I was dealing with. When I cut my teeth on tuning my first turbo 4cyl with big injectors and found out most people just ignore it and idle at 12:1 or something ridiculous and run super rich through all low rpm transients to avoid surging and idle hunting and such. I had to characterize my injectors myself through trial and error, I couldn't afford ID or FIC and just had siemens deka or deatschwerks junk back then! I maintain that making power is easy. Making power with back to back WOT runs on the dyno are so simple a monkey can do it, but idling well, cold staring well, not stalling at lights, not bogging when the AC kicks on, not being jerky at partial throttle during transients, getting good fuel economy, that's what separates a good tune from a dyno tune.
Who is this “Rob Dahm?” I’m old and might have memory loss, but I remember watching videos by a guy named Rob Dahm, who didn’t know much about rotary motors, and was just amazed and full of wonder every single moment!
This guy is a rotary motor EXPERT.
But I’m glad to still see that joy and wonder! ❤️
Love this. Was just wanting to build one
That's what you want to see from an intake upgrade on any engine. More power at the same boost but more importantly less boost when you max out the turbo. The important thing to take away from that is a turbo isn't limited by boost it's limited by airflow. When the same amount of airflow has less resistance you make less boost. Too many people ask "how much boost?" without understanding what it really entails. A stock 5.3 ls at 25 lbs of boost is gonna make a lot less power than the same 5.3 with nice heads/cam/intake/turbo system etc. with the same displacement.
You'll enjoy watching robs last video (I think..) he's definitely said exactly that in one of the recent ones. Almost verbatim 😅 thought you were quoting. Enjoy the validation!
@@blitzroute66 lol he did didn't he? I legitimately forgot about that. It's just something I find myself explaining a lot. I'm in the restaurant industry and just a few weeks ago I was talking to our high school aged host about it.
This feels like college again.. love all the information. Definitely gonna be rewatching this like 12 times. I have the turbo, 4 port manifolds, fuel system, intercooler system, and Haltech 1500 for my 1988 GTU (6 Port NA.) Is there any opinion on the IGN-1A coils vs LS Coils in terms of cost/performance/availability. The biggest hurdle for me is it's a perfectly running 70k mile 13B, trying to be the least intrusive to the keg itself. I honestly just want to make 300hp!
No other Rotary channel like Yours Rob 🔥
Watching this video really makes me want to build something with a 13b now lol
Hey Rob, when are you going to build a big power supercharged rotary? I've always been curious about what the limits are as far as supercharger size(and resulting parasitic drag) vs engine size. Would be pretty interesting to see what a 13b does with like a 3.0l Whipple twin screw or a Vortech YSi centrifugal attached to the crank.
Rob educating the kids. Keep up the good work. Love the vids. Can't wait to see rip some of these.
Thankyou for all the info Rob, pls make another video regarding closed loop and boost tuning.
The world needs more people like Rob, who want to share their knowledge so everyone can enjoy things.
The king of youtube rotary corn has posted lets go 🔥💪
Interesting info on Turblown's upper intake manifold. I know this video is 6 months old, but Rob, have you been given the chance to test out Turblown's lower intake manifold to get the full package? They do put alot of research in the products.
My friend did this, OEM intake and bit a bit smaller turbo, 91oct + meth, 540whp, it rips, black marks over 60mph on the highway with big tires.
This is a great video, lots of technical info. 0.81 Lambda at 20psi boost sounds aggressive for a turbo rotary IMHO, I'm guessing this was on E85 and not pump fuel?
Pump E85 according to Rob’s comments on Facebook
I’ve been working on a six port turbo in my SA. I’ll also admit I really haven’t been following Rob. So imagine my pleasure to see that im running Injector Dynamics, Haltech, DCPower and 10awg for my fuel pump. Sorry, brushless is out of my budget.
Rob, this is your best vid yet.
I'm learning to build RX-8.
I will use electric super/turbocharger, it's the real deal running on 48V lithium battery that works like nitrous surge.
What is the safe amount of boost or whp with stock internals?
Should i change the rotor using the RX-7 or i can just use aftermarket seal on RX-8 rotors?
What other thing should i consider for boosting RX-8?
Rob your the man. Love what your doing and how your doing it
The rotary has the best torque curve for cornering your race tires won't pop v8 and about pops racing tires while accelerating out of corners during position battles with rotary bank on smooth acceleration and maintain momentum the 3 and 5 mph speed difference through corner adds up if you're consistent your track car pulls away 👍
Another banger 🎉
Be enjoying every episode
Ever releases
I don't own a rotary, but I'll be damned if Ive ever missed a rob video in the last 8 years.
I am assuming that the rest of the car won't do 700hp on the wheels without mods. Can you do a no BS video on clutch, gearbox, driveshaft, diff and axles to accompany this?
I can put this video on my preteen niece's random playlist & it will still be easy and enjoyable edu-creation walkthrough, prop's to the legend himself!
The best Ford v8 track setup 9k rpm and 987 hp felt like a Ferrari v12 and shifts like one rpm needle still high in the power band
I use lucus 2 stroke motor oil at 2oz per gallon and have no problem with smoking and the inside of the motor was super clean when I rebuilt it due to a oil pressure spike
Gotta keep watching rob to keep my hype up for the awd 13b 67 Datsun roadster
Perfect place to go over pump laws: if you want to pump twice the flow, the pump has to spin 4 times as fast and take 8 times the power. They are related exponentially. 3 x flow ~ 9 x rpm ~ 27 x power.
One thing gale banks pushes is cubic volume of air rather than boost. Cool to see this in effect
Density 👍
This is an insane video, no BS indeed. I'll be following this carefully once I can get me a 2 rotor :))) Love ya Rob
Thanks Rob! This is right where I'm at building my 2nd gen. I went BW turbo but same idea. Your thoughts on the brushless fuel pump have me convinced. I'm still thinking about injector sizes but seeing what the Haltech can do with the bigger injectors gives me a little confidence in trying them. I'm after more around 450hp, but will still get a set of the Turblown studs just for peace of mind on torquing them correctly vs the tension bolts. Good stuff, I appreciate what you put out for those of us that still love these things. 500k miles and 8 rx-7s later and I cant seem to find any other cars I like more.
Amazing how you’ve made it 39 years with hair but this product magically saved it 🤯
Rob dahm is gods gift to those who have epitrochoid shaped hearts
What are you doing to keep the "fireballs" on decel to a minimum?
Also, Awsome video, you broke down some pretty complex ideas fairly simply and showed the numbers! Bravo!
I set my decel fuel to slightly rich to cool the combustion chamber but not so rich it collects. i think its at .72 lambda roughly
wanted to know what your thoughts on the hybrid renesis builds was. removing the exhaust restriction by using a 13b-rew housing seems like an absolute win for the renesis community but im sure you have a much finer eye for these things.
I Have to say this channel has evolved immensely a credit to y’all well done Rob I’m sure I knocked you once in the early days for something in the comments and I regret it and eat my words your a very impressive young man 🇦🇺 👍🤟🤙
Rich or lean fuel mixture doesn't affect power. Your own sponsor Haltech made a video proving that.
"Rich or lean fuel mixture doesn't affect power. Your own sponsor Haltech made a video proving that"
It does- Just not much. On a 400~ WHP 13b powered car youd maybe see 5-10~ WHP from leaning it out (getting right to the point before knock).
Problem is your combustion chambers fly through the roof, and you dramatically run the risk of predet / grenading the engine, which simply isnt worth the risk for the maybe, *maybe*, 10 hp you might see from running it dangerously close. Just richen it up and let it run safe.
Hey rob loved the video and your knowledge with these engines. I have a 2005 rx8 with a 1.3 2 rotor I was wondering what would be my best plug and play tune. Been getting into auto crossing..
Can youtube at button to like a video even more than once. Rob has talked about sharing knowledge for years and years and has. But I don't think he's ever gone this far and been like this is my map, Go make happiness. Makes me want a another Rotary so much more. One of these days!!!!!!!!!!
When does side clearancing the rotors become relevant? Figured 700 hp is where you start to worry about the rotors walking and contacting the irons.
*relevant
I’m interested in that myself. I wonder what the (relative) longevity will be with that much torsion.
I also want to know? I had a engine with 300 HP or less and it had rotors that had clearly hit the irons in the exact place that people clearance aka just below the corner seals?? I was told by Rob at pineapple racing to clearance every engine and stud or dowel and Ballance if you can afford it and our racing it??? Idk I'm interested to see what master robs input is????
Side clearencing has nothing to do with hp but more for RPM. Rob is peaking his HP at 7k and letting off at 8.5. If you plan on reving past 8.5k on a regular, then clearancing can help.
On the 3 rotor they arent side clearanced and i can see where they make love to the irons. But i spin that engine up almost to 10k often. like rotaryperfection said if its in the normal power band and under 8700 no worries about it. But high rpm definitely a must
@RobDahm right on guys thanks to you both
This makes me feel better about my ADHD. If Rob can do it and his team, so can I!!!!
LOL i actually dont know what that means. the only time my parents ever gave me money was 4k for college and i spent it on the FC starting this whole addiction. And i have connections because i built this channel. Not the reverse. i didnt know a damn thing or person related to cars and my old videos definitely confirm that haha
Wow you guys love this dude. You’ll probably hate on me for this.
“Were stopping everything to work on the 12 rotor…”.
I just want to see and hear it run ok!
Great Job Rob! I was expecting all the valuable information to be at the end of the but done in a Rob fashion where he just cuts it off short lol
I don't know wtf I just watched, but I'm here for it!