The original slits in the fabric allowed the fabric to be cinched really taught, so the horisontal frame members ideally wouldn't touch the back of the carrier. Now with the grommets you can't cinch the fabric that's against the back as tight anymore...
Dave: Are you going to start selling those type of pack sections with shoulder straps & having an area where you can run a waist belt through it? I think that would be a great idea, especially if they had a pocket in the flap & the flap itself could be tied to the sides to keep rain out when it's really getting crazy.
Really love this pack and I'm going to attempt to make one but I still prefer the metal stay over lacing. I still enjoy watching you modify and improve the pack for your wishes
Those modifications also provide a method of attaching straps to the pack box to allow you to use it as a soft pack providing even more versatility. Very nice.
Dave, you should try sewing the pack. A bucket with a flap is pretty simple. Metal plates on the part of the frame that would touch the ground might help longevity wise.
+Charlie Breslow Yes I am very confident I could sew the pack but time is the issue with some projects as I have so many things going at one time-The metal plates may be added for sure as the original does have them
***** I can certainly understand the time aspect. I am a hunting guide in wyoming and my daily tasks building, sewing, maintaining and packing gear. -Charlie
Hey Dave, I like this series. Can you please explore the possibility of using the stays as a tripod as they were in the original? If there is any modification to the stays that would make them more multi-functional, I would be interested in that as well.
That's a cool set up. I think when you make the bag you should allow some extra flap material to cover the opening on each side. I know you said the original was meant to be tied together but with a few pieces of fabric it could easily be improved upon. If I was going to sew it, I'd put a flap on each side that could be tied together over top of my contents then the main flap would cover everything.The main flap could stand to have a few scrap extensions over that opening as well, just a little shed roof if you will.
hi Dave, maybe to connect the straps at the bottom, use a loop at the bottom and an adjustable toggle that slips through the loops at the bottom of the frame. This would aid in adjustability and also is modular like you mentioned.
I'll be interested to see how much "play" the leather will give you, the metal rods will hold the pack tighter with the rod giving form between the eyelets.
Dave a suggestion for you. add grommets on the bottom of the pack straps every inch or so instead of a loop, add an eye bolt bent open or a "L" bolt faced down on bottom of frame so as to have adjustments depending on thickness of clothing.
My experience with DIY waxed canvas is that it becomes tacky or gummy in hot weather (90 degrees and above). Be interested to see if this mixture is different. Very good replication and awesome build out.
+William Collins (WC Knives) I agree WC, that backer would make me sweat just looking at it. I would rather see a mesh of some type. I know its not traditional, but if it gets above 60 degrees f, I pray for snow.
LoL, I understand. I was actually referring to the wax coating itself. The coating, in my experience with self applied wax waterproofing, becomes tacky and gummy in hot weather. But maybe Jason has a better formula. Be interested in knowing if that is the case.
Dave, Would weaving the leather back and forth between the three holes not work better than cutting bits off your thong? Might make it easier to thread other bits through and attach other items to the outside too. I'd also be inclined to add a couple side pouches (canteen, med kit) and a pouch to the front. Lastly, if you use some steel loops for the connecting the straps to the frame could they not double up for building tripods? I'm really enjoying this series, I think you have a highly customizable piece of kit there!
Great pack idea, but I do worry about the top opening on the sides during the wet season. Perhaps a drawstring idea or even simple flaps that fold in could be added to improve the water resistant nature of the pack. Thanks for the videos!
This is a really cool project! Just another idea here to add to the others. I noticed that the frame cover was also waxed canvas, which might be better made from non-waxed canvas. Better breathing ability, I would think. No real need for it to be waxed, other than, perhaps, longevity reasons.
Hello Dave. I think instead of cutting those 6 strands of leather thong, you should just cut 2 long pieces and weave them through the grommets so that if you wanted, you could use those 2 pieces as cordage. and you wouldn't have to untie 6 knots in order to remove that portion of the pack. instead you would only have to untie those 2 knots and just weave them through.
Awesome video my friend love the backpack you maid. I have a question for you Dave. I got pair of mukluks boots Military green version. Any way I can water proof them to use in Alaska in the winter. Thank you for any help Dave...
Hi, just rewatched these, did you ever make the leather straps? Did you do anything to deal with the fact that with the fixed grommets and the holes through the frame you sort of negated the ability to tighten the fabric across the back? I'm off to make my first Roycroft frame, great videos as ever.
I enjoyed the video Dave. I enjoy this series. Also, in advance, congrats on 400,000 subscribers! At the time I'm commenting, you have 399,768. Take care Dave.
dave you could make the leather cordage a little bit longer and tie them some way into a loop or like a small fishemans knot at the top and bottom and easily hang a nice 19 to 23 inch handled axe on the side that would be pretty cool in my opinion instead of taking up room in the pack it would free up some space granted not a ton but still some is better than non
I think the only thing it is missing, is an option for a waist belt for support of heavier loads. :) it is very interesting. I wonder if the dululuth bushcrafter could be attached?
+alzathoth Seen in Dave's videos of the selfmade field frame: he used very long shoulder straps. Instead of loops at the bottom Dave wristed the straps around the frame. Then he took the end of the straps, put them forward to his belly and made a knot. Voila! :-)
You think a frame like this could be used with a frameless pack? I have one of those 50gal military packs and I've heard framed packs give better support, load bearing, and durability
+Laflen Kenway You might want to go with one with a "floor." Dave did a vid on making one out of PVC & the Modular Packing Discussion mentions a good frame & had a great idea making for the "pack section." If you mean simply lashing a frameless pack to a frame: Most of the time you can do that, because the design is ALSO for lashing other things to it (firewood, game animal, etc...). The idea is that you'd take the bag off temporarily & use the frame to carry something heavy back to came or whatever, then reattach the bag.
I saw one today at a flea market it had at the top or bottom an arrow shape cut into the pine part, I don't know if they were to hook the straps on the bottom (I think) or what, it was all oak very old and they wanted $39 buck just for the frame but some of the wood was a little broke off or rotted off, I passed
Hm... I think, you didn't improve your pack. The leather strips are not as stable as the eyes are. Cant hold weight like the eyes, don't last as long as the eyes. Just try to find rivets that fit over the eyes and you are done. For now you got basically a vertically sewing between frame and pack. Pulling force (weight) in line with a sewing was never a great idea. Aprops weight: weight distribution with the eyes is much better too. Leather is flexible. Metal is not. The eyes are nailing the weight to a given point. Leather does not. If I'd have to replace a broken eye in the woods, I could still ruin the frame, drill a hole and nail a wooden stick onto the frame. Or I'd lace it like you did. For the metal strips: if they get damaged, I'd use small wooden sticks for replacement. Not a big deal until I can get some new wire. I'd replace the lacing cotton strip too. Its es mess at the end. Would rather use some paracord. It has a lot of backup features too. Plus: I can smelt the ends for easier lacing. Last point: I can still use the eyes of a broken pack for getting fast moving string settings like traps, mini pulleys etc. Greetings from Germany. Piet. (sorry for my terrible english. I'm no native speaker)
In the future wlill this be available on your website for sale??
man, that is one sweet pack Dave. You are the king.
The original slits in the fabric allowed the fabric to be cinched really taught, so the horisontal frame members ideally wouldn't touch the back of the carrier. Now with the grommets you can't cinch the fabric that's against the back as tight anymore...
Dave: Are you going to start selling those type of pack sections with shoulder straps & having an area where you can run a waist belt through it? I think that would be a great idea, especially if they had a pocket in the flap & the flap itself could be tied to the sides to keep rain out when it's really getting crazy.
Very useful modifications without taking away from the original design! Outstanding!
Really love this pack and I'm going to attempt to make one but I still prefer the metal stay over lacing. I still enjoy watching you modify and improve the pack for your wishes
Agree on the metal stays. Either works, but the stays are more elegant.
Those modifications also provide a method of attaching straps to the pack box to allow you to use it as a soft pack providing even more versatility. Very nice.
Hello Dave. I love watching your videos. Thanks for all the great info.
I have the same set of grommets use them for tons of stuff. Mom knows what should go in a Christmas stocking.
Dave, you should try sewing the pack. A bucket with a flap is pretty simple. Metal plates on the part of the frame that would touch the ground might help longevity wise.
+Charlie Breslow Yes I am very confident I could sew the pack but time is the issue with some projects as I have so many things going at one time-The metal plates may be added for sure as the original does have them
***** I can certainly understand the time aspect. I am a hunting guide in wyoming and my daily tasks building, sewing, maintaining and packing gear.
-Charlie
Hey Dave, I like this series. Can you please explore the possibility of using the stays as a tripod as they were in the original? If there is any modification to the stays that would make them more multi-functional, I would be interested in that as well.
That's a very cool pack setup. Looks awesome.
That's a cool set up. I think when you make the bag you should allow some extra flap material to cover the opening on each side. I know you said the original was meant to be tied together but with a few pieces of fabric it could easily be improved upon. If I was going to sew it, I'd put a flap on each side that could be tied together over top of my contents then the main flap would cover everything.The main flap could stand to have a few scrap extensions over that opening as well, just a little shed roof if you will.
hi Dave,
maybe to connect the straps at the bottom, use a loop at the bottom and an adjustable toggle that slips through the loops at the bottom of the frame. This would aid in adjustability and also is modular like you mentioned.
I'll be interested to see how much "play" the leather will give you, the metal rods will hold the pack tighter with the rod giving form between the eyelets.
Dave a suggestion for you. add grommets on the bottom of the pack straps every inch or so instead of a loop, add an eye bolt bent open or a "L" bolt faced down on bottom of frame so as to have adjustments depending on thickness of clothing.
Very cool project. After you've read about the Hudson bay company you can't help but look at retro kit.
be nice to have the tent tarp wrap with lash around the bottom and the bed roll on top !
My experience with DIY waxed canvas is that it becomes tacky or gummy in hot weather (90 degrees and above). Be interested to see if this mixture is different. Very good replication and awesome build out.
+William Collins (WC Knives) I agree WC, that backer would make me sweat just looking at it. I would rather see a mesh of some type. I know its not traditional, but if it gets above 60 degrees f, I pray for snow.
LoL, I understand. I was actually referring to the wax coating itself. The coating, in my experience with self applied wax waterproofing, becomes tacky and gummy in hot weather. But maybe Jason has a better formula. Be interested in knowing if that is the case.
Dave, Would weaving the leather back and forth between the three holes not work better than cutting bits off your thong? Might make it easier to thread other bits through and attach other items to the outside too. I'd also be inclined to add a couple side pouches (canteen, med kit) and a pouch to the front. Lastly, if you use some steel loops for the connecting the straps to the frame could they not double up for building tripods? I'm really enjoying this series, I think you have a highly customizable piece of kit there!
Great pack idea, but I do worry about the top opening on the sides during the wet season. Perhaps a drawstring idea or even simple flaps that fold in could be added to improve the water resistant nature of the pack. Thanks for the videos!
Nice pack but I thought you were recreating a Trapper Nelson? What you ended up with is not a Trapper Nelson.
Awesome ideas about making the parts modular.
This is a really cool project! Just another idea here to add to the others. I noticed that the frame cover was also waxed canvas, which might be better made from non-waxed canvas. Better breathing ability, I would think. No real need for it to be waxed, other than, perhaps, longevity reasons.
you rock Dave! your videos are very entertaining and informative!
Looks awesome Dave... Looking forward to the next part..=)
This system turned out great....
Hello Dave. I think instead of cutting those 6 strands of leather thong, you should just cut 2 long pieces and weave them through the grommets so that if you wanted, you could use those 2 pieces as cordage. and you wouldn't have to untie 6 knots in order to remove that portion of the pack. instead you would only have to untie those 2 knots and just weave them through.
Hi Dave, maybe when you put the laced side of the canvas directly to your back you get a better ventilation....
Grtz Rene
Awesome video my friend love the backpack you maid. I have a question for you Dave. I got pair of mukluks boots Military green version. Any way I can water proof them to use in Alaska in the winter. Thank you for any help Dave...
Dave , What would you think about crossing the straps across your chest for more support and not just over your shoulders.
Hi, just rewatched these, did you ever make the leather straps?
Did you do anything to deal with the fact that with the fixed grommets and the holes through the frame you sort of negated the ability to tighten the fabric across the back?
I'm off to make my first Roycroft frame, great videos as ever.
Was there ever a follow up about this pack project? How did it actually work out in the field?
Hi David...you did an amazing job on the trapper pack. Would you make one to sell? If so how much?
That is going to be a great pack. Does the wax canvas work better than oil canvas? Thanks again for the videos.
I enjoyed the video Dave. I enjoy this series. Also, in advance, congrats on 400,000 subscribers! At the time I'm commenting, you have 399,768. Take care Dave.
I am curious as to what happened to the next video in this series. I was unable to find it...
Looks good. I find a bent branch with rope wrapped around it still works best :)
Hey dave, great work as always! would love to know what type of canvas and weight y'all used. Thanks!
dave you could make the leather cordage a little bit longer and tie them some way into a loop or like a small fishemans knot at the top and bottom and easily hang a nice 19 to 23 inch handled axe on the side that would be pretty cool in my opinion instead of taking up room in the pack it would free up some space granted not a ton but still some is better than non
I think the only thing it is missing, is an option for a waist belt for support of heavier loads. :) it is very interesting. I wonder if the dululuth bushcrafter could be attached?
+alzathoth Seen in Dave's videos of the selfmade field frame: he used very long shoulder straps. Instead of loops at the bottom Dave wristed the straps around the frame. Then he took the end of the straps, put them forward to his belly and made a knot. Voila! :-)
I would like to get the canvas pack and the stretcher part and build my own frame, could I order those parts?
Dave
What is the process for making waxed canvas?
Thank you
thx again dave...
Try Alder. It's a hardwood but lighter than oak.
You think a frame like this could be used with a frameless pack? I have one of those 50gal military packs and I've heard framed packs give better support, load bearing, and durability
+Laflen Kenway You might want to go with one with a "floor." Dave did a vid on making one out of PVC & the Modular Packing Discussion mentions a good frame & had a great idea making for the "pack section."
If you mean simply lashing a frameless pack to a frame: Most of the time you can do that, because the design is ALSO for lashing other things to it (firewood, game animal, etc...). The idea is that you'd take the bag off temporarily & use the frame to carry something heavy back to came or whatever, then reattach the bag.
I'll have to look for the video, thank you
+Laflen Kenway You're welcome.
I like it, but I think I would use wire instead of leather thong. something like a 14 gauge, or maybe a bit smaller.
If your pack straps were a little longer you could tie them in front and make a waist strap out of the extra length.
I saw one today at a flea market it had at the top or bottom an arrow shape cut into the pine part, I don't know if they were to hook the straps on the bottom (I think) or what, it was all oak very old and they wanted $39 buck just for the frame but some of the wood was a little broke off or rotted off, I passed
i want one so bad
Kephart 2016.
what happens to dirty rotten survival
Hm... I think, you didn't improve your pack. The leather strips are not as stable as the eyes are. Cant hold weight like the eyes, don't last as long as the eyes. Just try to find rivets that fit over the eyes and you are done. For now you got basically a vertically sewing between frame and pack. Pulling force (weight) in line with a sewing was never a great idea. Aprops weight: weight distribution with the eyes is much better too. Leather is flexible. Metal is not. The eyes are nailing the weight to a given point. Leather does not.
If I'd have to replace a broken eye in the woods, I could still ruin the frame, drill a hole and nail a wooden stick onto the frame. Or I'd lace it like you did.
For the metal strips: if they get damaged, I'd use small wooden sticks for replacement. Not a big deal until I can get some new wire.
I'd replace the lacing cotton strip too. Its es mess at the end. Would rather use some paracord. It has a lot of backup features too. Plus: I can smelt the ends for easier lacing.
Last point: I can still use the eyes of a broken pack for getting fast moving string settings like traps, mini pulleys etc.
Greetings from Germany.
Piet.
(sorry for my terrible english. I'm no native speaker)
Seems over engineered now.
i dunno i like the original design. You kinda ended up with a totally dif pack
first