@@OldSchoolElectronics but you managsd to make me understand what's wrong with a Sharp RT-1010 that I have here. One question: is it possible to replace the belt (or sort of rubber piece) around the pulley?
I am not sure what you are talking about? If it is an idler wheel with rubber around it, yes. You can use an o-ring, or if you are lucky, a reproduction of the original is sold somewhere.
That was exactly what I was talking about. I'm going to search on a hardware store near me and I hope one day to give further notice about that. Cheers.
Great video. Had exactly the same issues highlighted in the video (after thinking new belts would fix the decks). Ordered some fuel line as suggested here for £2.50. Few hours later and all is working again . Thanks for the great videos.👍😁
Do you perhaps have experience with the VU meters? They are doing it very well while playing cassettes, but when listening radio, all the leds light up nearly constantly.
I don't have the service manual procedure for this. If it really bothers you and you are not too concerned about accuracy, you could always adjust R601 and R602 slightly. I don't have this box anymore, but the adjustments would be on the indicator board it seems.
Very useful set on the GF555 - thank you. Sadly I've had less success as I think there needs to be a degree of slippage to account for the fact the spool gets larger as the tape is pulled through. One of the decks played ok prior to fitting the new tube but now sounds rather muffled plus the cassette won't rewind and is very stiff to move with a pencil so I think the take up spool is trying to pull the tape through the capstan. I believe that if you get hold of the tensioner pulley with your fingers it should be fairly easy to stop and mine isn't. I wonder whether there was some lubricant on the spindle of the flywheel pulley to aid slippage from manufacture and this is what causes the black gunky mess over time?
Sorry, I wrote you a lengthy reply a few weeks ago, but the internet failed just as I hit the send button. Anyway, I would put a drop of oil on the spindle (on the bottom part of it--not where the tube is). And as you already know, clean all the rubber wheels with isopropyl alcohol, making sure, that they are not glazed, hardened, or cracked. Clean the head again, demagnetize the head, make sure the head position hasn't changed. Try a different cassette--which I assume you probably already did. I assume by muffled you mean poor high frequency response. The pulley, exposed to the air and light, seems to have its chemical composition changed over time. What exactly this is, I do not know.
@@OldSchoolElectronics Thank you for your reply. The pulley I fitted was 6mm o/d tube and I think it was a bit big: I actually ended up replacing the pulley with something with a smaller diameter and it seems to have done the trick in terms of tension and sound quality which, yes was lacking high frequency. Just in case anyone else comes across this problem, the sound was louder from one speaker than the other and I was advised on Boomboxery to 'work the record bar' as it activates/deactivates some switches as it moves. Sorry if you have covered this off yourself elsewhere. Once again, thanks for a great series on the GF555
Ok, cool. Glad you got it fixed. Again, sorry about the late 2nd reply. Also, I am not TH-cam that often nowadays. The advice you received is correct. You should in fact spray contact cleaner into that function switch and work it back and forth. The dirty switch sometimes often also causes a wierd warbling sound. And as you maybe already know, it is the large, flat switch with many contacts on the circuit board. In fact, spray all switches, or, if you do not have contact cleaner, at least work them back and forth with the power off. And thanks for your kind words.
Hi, My Sharp GF-555 makes pit, pit, pit sounds when I play cassettes. There is no sound like this on radio part. Only in tape part. Is it a bad capacitor problem or does a good cleaning fix the problem? When I increase the volume, this pit,pit, pit sound also increases. What can be the problem? Waiting for your advice. Thanks in advance.
I'm on vacation so I can't write a book. I would try cleaning the record/playback switch on the main board. The long switch; sometime there are two; these are next to each other.
Hello Old school sorry for bothering here. I'm looking for information everywhere. I have a sharp gf 666z that I am restoring. and I ran into two problems 1 is that one of the cassette motors does not stop turning and the other is that one of the speakers does not sound. could you give me some clue. in point 1. clean all the contacts and you still have the problem. the two little by little I am looking for the cause. Thank you very much in advance, greetings from Argentina
A side is still spilling . B side is trying to work but isn’t. I have ordered new belts. Also I think I may have positioned the pulley in the wrong place at the moment it’s positioned so that the other wheel has contact with it in the centre .
Hello, thanks for the video. I used a latex tube, of 5 mm, and 1,7 mm in the inner diameter, it fits well. The deck doesn't eat the tape anymore, it spins well, but the sound is BAD, it sounds like if it needed more speed. Maybe latex is not a good material ?
Hello and thanks for your comments. I haved used either clear plastic tubing (sanded to give it more grip) or silicone medical tubing. If it is going slow it could be loose belts or the motor speed control needs adjusting. I don't have the Sharp anymore, so I am not sure if there is a hole in the back of the motor to adjust the speed. Bad sound could be a dirty head or dirty record/playback switch (behind the cassette mechanism).
MS: I did this video years ago and I no longer have the GF-555. But: if you mean the rubber pulley on the capstan (thin, shiny metal rod), then the pulley is not supposed to slip, that is, it will be moving and in contact with something else. Therefore no slippage is allowed. Tight, but you can do that by hand. You have to use your "eye judgement" to find the right position. Remember, it is making contact with something else; so see if it is making good contact with the other pulley/wheel). The contact spot should be in the middle.
Thank you sir 😊 I’ve understood where the pulley goes I’ve done a trial with the previous rubber tube which is loose. I can know see how the other wheel gets in contact when the play button is pressed . Thank You
Yes, these old scans of service manuals are all black and white. That's the bad news, the good news is that they are often free. I would take the relevant pages you want and zoom the pages before you print them out. And if the pin still doesn't hold, use glue or nail polish to keep it in place.
You have to take the tape mechanism deck off the main chassis, quite a few plugs and sockets. Also then take the bearing plate off the back of the deck. You will have to leave the motor plate hanging off, because it is hard wired (unless you unsolder the wires) TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS and notes. I took out the small screw holding the bracket where all the wires connect. The centre piece of the solenoid will fall out!. I then had to take off the middle plate of the deck to replace the idler tyres (US:tires) which were damaged.
Your photography is truly excellent. Stable camera work ... very important.
Thanks! Although I do use a cheap, old camera since I am not a famous and successful TH-camr.
@@OldSchoolElectronics but you managsd to make me understand what's wrong with a Sharp RT-1010 that I have here. One question: is it possible to replace the belt (or sort of rubber piece) around the pulley?
I am not sure what you are talking about? If it is an idler wheel with rubber around it, yes. You can use an o-ring, or if you are lucky, a reproduction of the original is sold somewhere.
That was exactly what I was talking about. I'm going to search on a hardware store near me and I hope one day to give further notice about that. Cheers.
Great video. Had exactly the same issues highlighted in the video (after thinking new belts would fix the decks). Ordered some fuel line as suggested here for £2.50. Few hours later and all is working again . Thanks for the great videos.👍😁
Congratulations on fixing it! Another one saved! And thanks for your kind words!
Always amazes me how much dust and low-level grime we find down there!
Very nice video sir!
Thanks! It's amazing that these units often still work up to this day; if you consider their age and the beatings they sometimes took.
Hello, i had the same problem, got it fixed in no time. Absolutely flawless piece it is.
+Valter Õunapuu cool! the only weak spot seems to be the little rubber pulleys; the old belts, of course, should always be replaced.
Also, those silver trims tend to come off and most of GF-555s i´ve seen for sale are missing those. Mine has all of them.
Great film of exactly our problem with the recorder, thank you
Cool! Glad the video helped!
Thanks. Succesfull repaired the mechanism today. I took it completely apart though. 👍👍
Good job! Another classic saved!
Do you perhaps have experience with the VU meters? They are doing it very well while playing cassettes, but when listening radio, all the leds light up nearly constantly.
I don't have the service manual procedure for this. If it really bothers you and you are not too concerned about accuracy, you could always adjust R601 and R602 slightly. I don't have this box anymore, but the adjustments would be on the indicator board it seems.
Very useful set on the GF555 - thank you. Sadly I've had less success as I think there needs to be a degree of slippage to account for the fact the spool gets larger as the tape is pulled through. One of the decks played ok prior to fitting the new tube but now sounds rather muffled plus the cassette won't rewind and is very stiff to move with a pencil so I think the take up spool is trying to pull the tape through the capstan. I believe that if you get hold of the tensioner pulley with your fingers it should be fairly easy to stop and mine isn't. I wonder whether there was some lubricant on the spindle of the flywheel pulley to aid slippage from manufacture and this is what causes the black gunky mess over time?
Sorry, I wrote you a lengthy reply a few weeks ago, but the internet failed just as I hit the send button. Anyway, I would put a drop of oil on the spindle (on the bottom part of it--not where the tube is). And as you already know, clean all the rubber wheels with isopropyl alcohol, making sure, that they are not glazed, hardened, or cracked. Clean the head again, demagnetize the head, make sure the head position hasn't changed. Try a different cassette--which I assume you probably already did. I assume by muffled you mean poor high frequency response. The pulley, exposed to the air and light, seems to have its chemical composition changed over time. What exactly this is, I do not know.
@@OldSchoolElectronics Thank you for your reply.
The pulley I fitted was 6mm o/d tube and I think it was a bit big: I actually ended up replacing the pulley with something with a smaller diameter and it seems to have done the trick in terms of tension and sound quality which, yes was lacking high frequency.
Just in case anyone else comes across this problem, the sound was louder from one speaker than the other and I was advised on Boomboxery to 'work the record bar' as it activates/deactivates some switches as it moves. Sorry if you have covered this off yourself elsewhere.
Once again, thanks for a great series on the GF555
Ok, cool. Glad you got it fixed. Again, sorry about the late 2nd reply. Also, I am not TH-cam that often nowadays. The advice you received is correct. You should in fact spray contact cleaner into that function switch and work it back and forth. The dirty switch sometimes often also causes a wierd warbling sound. And as you maybe already know, it is the large, flat switch with many contacts on the circuit board. In fact, spray all switches, or, if you do not have contact cleaner, at least work them back and forth with the power off.
And thanks for your kind words.
Hi, My Sharp GF-555 makes pit, pit, pit sounds when I play cassettes. There is no sound like this on radio part. Only in tape part. Is it a bad capacitor problem or does a good cleaning fix the problem? When I increase the volume, this pit,pit, pit sound also increases. What can be the problem? Waiting for your advice. Thanks in advance.
I'm on vacation so I can't write a book. I would try cleaning the record/playback switch on the main board. The long switch; sometime there are two; these are next to each other.
Thank you sir 😊 I managed to replace the pulley and the pinch roller.
Good job!
Old School thank you for your tutorial it’s helped a lot 😊
The vintage sharp stereo system has that same kind of mechanism .
Thanks for the info!
Hello Old school sorry for bothering here. I'm looking for information everywhere. I have a sharp gf 666z that I am restoring. and I ran into two problems 1 is that one of the cassette motors does not stop turning and the other is that one of the speakers does not sound. could you give me some clue. in point 1. clean all the contacts and you still have the problem. the two little by little I am looking for the cause. Thank you very much in advance, greetings from Argentina
I will be back from traveling in a few days. I have very limited internet now. I will write again when I am back home.
Only issue I have now the cassette player doesn’t turn on it was working before I removed the mechanism .
Make sure you don't have a problem with the leaf (thin metal) switches. All connecters to the cassette mechanism need to be checked.
Old School thank you sir. I noticed the fuse blew 😂 i replaced it it’s powered up now.
A side is still spilling . B side is trying to work but isn’t. I have ordered new belts. Also I think I may have positioned the pulley in the wrong place at the moment it’s positioned so that the other wheel has contact with it in the centre .
Fantástico amigo, gran reparación, saludos.
Greetings! Thanks for commenting!
Hello, thanks for the video. I used a latex tube, of 5 mm, and 1,7 mm in the inner diameter, it fits well. The deck doesn't eat the tape anymore, it spins well, but the sound is BAD, it sounds like if it needed more speed. Maybe latex is not a good material ?
Hello and thanks for your comments. I haved used either clear plastic tubing (sanded to give it more grip) or silicone medical tubing. If it is going slow it could be loose belts or the motor speed control needs adjusting. I don't have the Sharp anymore, so I am not sure if there is a hole in the back of the motor to adjust the speed. Bad sound could be a dirty head or dirty record/playback switch (behind the cassette mechanism).
Sir does the pulley need to be tight. Also how far does it need to go. Thank you .
MS: I did this video years ago and I no longer have the GF-555. But: if you mean the rubber pulley on the capstan (thin, shiny metal rod), then the pulley is not supposed to slip, that is, it will be moving and in contact with something else. Therefore no slippage is allowed. Tight, but you can do that by hand. You have to use your "eye judgement" to find the right position. Remember, it is making contact with something else; so see if it is making good contact with the other pulley/wheel). The contact spot should be in the middle.
Old School thank you ever so much sir for responding to my questions. I’ll give that a go 😊
Thank you sir 😊 I’ve understood where the pulley goes I’ve done a trial with the previous rubber tube which is loose. I can know see how the other wheel gets in contact when the play button is pressed . Thank You
I have this issue too. And removing the cassette mechanism will be difficult without a service manual.
In case you don't have it: elektrotanya.com/sharp_gf-555h_e.pdf/download.html
Old School thank you 😊👍👍👍
Old School oh no it’s black and white 😱 colour images would have made it easier .
Yes, these old scans of service manuals are all black and white. That's the bad news, the good news is that they are often free. I would take the relevant pages you want and zoom the pages before you print them out. And if the pin still doesn't hold, use glue or nail polish to keep it in place.
Old School thank you 😊
Very interesting and useful tips super 👍
Thank you!
how did you get the mechanism out? you skipped past this important part. the rear of the mechanism is covered
mark, i thought i made an extra video just covering removing the cassette mechanism.
You have to take the tape mechanism deck off the main chassis, quite a few plugs and sockets. Also then take the bearing plate off the back of the deck. You will have to leave the motor plate hanging off, because it is hard wired (unless you unsolder the wires) TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS and notes. I took out the small screw holding the bracket where all the wires connect. The centre piece of the solenoid will fall out!. I then had to take off the middle plate of the deck to replace the idler tyres (US:tires) which were damaged.
Thank you for this video.
Thanks. i have the same problem. try to fix it wtih your video!
Good luck!
I done exactly that to minem