Awesome! If I remember correctly, the Yukon might have a factory drain plug for the transmission pan as well, which also makes that job much less frustrating.
Well you did a great video I got to tell you man you did amazing on your commentary perfect visuals gave us a ton of information that most people don't even really think to go into we can tell you did your research I would have you know took the extra time and cleaned out the inside of it just because I'm not anal but after watching you do this and you done it quite a few times I don't think I'll need to do that either think I'll just drain it, clean up the areas and reapply it. Learns quite a bit watching this good job man look forward to seeing more of this type of content
I'm glad the video helped, and I appreciate your feedback. It's been my experience that looking for metal shavings at this point is a waste of time. I know a lot of people do it, but after the break-in period, a properly lubed gear won't be an issue unless there is a major mechanical failure. That failure would be obvious, meaning I'd be opening the diff knowing chunks of metal will be falling out. In the absence of abuse, the G80 is pretty reliable. It gets a bad reputation (much like the 4L60e) by people who add too much power to the engine without beefing up the rest of the driveline. This will never work out well in the long run.
Lube locker makes a fantastic gasket for these, they are thick gaskets and reuseable part #LLR-G850 If you are looking to replace the cover, it is worthwhile to order the GM replacement as it includes a gasket, the mounting bolts, and the bracket for the brakeline
Hey I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, but it looks like we have the same 10 bolt rear end. My issue is someone stripped my fill plug and I am looking for a replacement part number. It is basically non-existent. I was wondering if you could measure the threads and tell me what the thread is on that fill plug. So i can look for a replacement before i tap and extract the plug out.
Unfortunately, my thread checker doesn't go up that big, but from my research, it looks like the fill plug is a 1/2" NPT. Keep in mind that there could be minor variations within the GMT800 line (for example, my cabin air filter is not serviceable, which is unique to just a few years of the line). It looks like Dorman makes a replacement that is sold at Advanced and Mr. Gasket makes one that is available at Auto Zone (both use a hex head instead of the 3/8" ratchet head). From everything I could gather, this is just a steel plug, so even a 1/2" NPT bolt from Home Depot should do the trick. If there's a scrapyard near you, I'd recommend stopping by there and pulling one from another '02 if they'll sell it without buying the whole housing. I hope this helps.
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 I'm not sure but would expect the manufacturer of the cover to specify in their documentation. I suppose it would depend on where the inspection hole is in relation to the oem fill hole and if the new one is designed to hold more oil.
Thanks for the feedback! Surprisingly, there are no torque specs for the differential cover. The general consensus is that they should be between 20-30 ft-lbs, but I don't have anything definitive. At one point, it was recommended to use new bolts each time (I believe this is the reason for the torque range -- the bolts need to be tightened more over time if reused). There is, however, a torque spec for the fill plug, but it's different throughout the GMT-800 years. For a 1999, the rear diff fill plug is torqued to 45 ft-lbs; for 2000 and 2001, it is torqued to 24; for 2002-2007 (before the body change), it is torqued to 20 ft-lbs if you have a 9.75" ring gear, and to 24 ft-lbs if you have anything other than the 9.75" ring gear. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'll do my best to respond quickly.
@@bryanlyle That is correct. I always recommend just a gasket. Some people like RTV, and I've seen them used together but it always leads to a mess. As long as there's no pitting it the mating surface, you will be fine.
@@ramiroduenas573 From what I can tell, some did and some didn't. I think it depended on the differtial itself. This one, being the Eaton locker (rpo g80), does not. I've yet to come across a g80 with a drain plug but I bet I'll see one as soon as I hit send!
@@ramiroduenas573 I knew that was going to happen! My next guess is maybe it has to do with either the tow package or the z71 package. This truck has both. Or maybe they ran out of drill bits!
In a 1500 with the factory diff? Something is not right. For starters, the rear diff isn't a fill and spill set up, it needs to be a specific distance below the fill hole. Regardless, with 4 qts, you should have seen some spill out. Without seeing it, I would have to guess the truck either wasn't level, or has a rear diff from a 2500 or 3500.
@@tommytwo-tips5785 Definitely possible, although I would think they'd have to be almost nonexistent for the oil to push past them without any resistance. You could pull a tire and see if you see oil pouring out, but the absence of oil doesn't necessarily disprove the theory.
@@kellismith4329 no I didn’t! I laid under my truck for 25 minutes. Had no idea where it was going, but I took it around the block and came back and it was leaking. Saw it coming from the passenger axle where it meets the diff. It’s in the shop right now, I’d do it myself but I’m in the middle of packing to move so didn’t want the extra stress
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
So lucky my 2002 Yukon SLT had the drain plug! I did a little happy dance. I had to do the whole cover on my 06 Escalade.
Awesome! If I remember correctly, the Yukon might have a factory drain plug for the transmission pan as well, which also makes that job much less frustrating.
Yes it does. Although you only get like 3 quarts out at a time.
@@hud351 That's still a lot better than 4 quarts dumping onto your driveway!
9:24 semper fi
Thank you so much for this video, and the wire hanger tip is 100% a lifesaver.
Semper fi! I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for the vid
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it helpful
Well you did a great video I got to tell you man you did amazing on your commentary perfect visuals gave us a ton of information that most people don't even really think to go into we can tell you did your research I would have you know took the extra time and cleaned out the inside of it just because I'm not anal but after watching you do this and you done it quite a few times I don't think I'll need to do that either think I'll just drain it, clean up the areas and reapply it. Learns quite a bit watching this good job man look forward to seeing more of this type of content
I'm glad the video helped, and I appreciate your feedback. It's been my experience that looking for metal shavings at this point is a waste of time. I know a lot of people do it, but after the break-in period, a properly lubed gear won't be an issue unless there is a major mechanical failure.
That failure would be obvious, meaning I'd be opening the diff knowing chunks of metal will be falling out. In the absence of abuse, the G80 is pretty reliable. It gets a bad reputation (much like the 4L60e) by people who add too much power to the engine without beefing up the rest of the driveline. This will never work out well in the long run.
Lube locker makes a fantastic gasket for these, they are thick gaskets and reuseable part #LLR-G850
If you are looking to replace the cover, it is worthwhile to order the GM replacement as it includes a gasket, the mounting bolts, and the bracket for the brakeline
I've been meaning to replace the cover for a few years. This might be the summer it finally gets replaced!
What is the capacity? And what are the torque specs on the 13mm bolts if you don’t mind? I have the same truck
It's just over 2 quarts, but don't go by the bottle size. It's much safer to fill and check the level as you go. Too much can destroy your rear diff.
And the torque spec is 18 lb-ft.
@@funcle_kevin thank you!
@@funcle_kevinAppreciate it, and great job on the video! Us poor people appreciate it!!
@@pittsbirds1656 The pleasure is mine! I'm always happy to help people save money and keep more of these trucks on the road!
Hey I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, but it looks like we have the same 10 bolt rear end.
My issue is someone stripped my fill plug and I am looking for a replacement part number. It is basically non-existent.
I was wondering if you could measure the threads and tell me what the thread is on that fill plug. So i can look for a replacement before i tap and extract the plug out.
Unfortunately, my thread checker doesn't go up that big, but from my research, it looks like the fill plug is a 1/2" NPT. Keep in mind that there could be minor variations within the GMT800 line (for example, my cabin air filter is not serviceable, which is unique to just a few years of the line).
It looks like Dorman makes a replacement that is sold at Advanced and Mr. Gasket makes one that is available at Auto Zone (both use a hex head instead of the 3/8" ratchet head). From everything I could gather, this is just a steel plug, so even a 1/2" NPT bolt from Home Depot should do the trick. If there's a scrapyard near you, I'd recommend stopping by there and pulling one from another '02 if they'll sell it without buying the whole housing.
I hope this helps.
@@funcle_kevin you sir! are a life saver. and that hex head would benefit me 50,000 miles later. Thank you !
@@tonytan0You are quite welcome; I'm glad I could help!
if i replace the cover with a new one that has a fill/inspection hole, do i just fill it up to that fill out with oil and not use the oem fill screw?
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 I'm not sure but would expect the manufacturer of the cover to specify in their documentation. I suppose it would depend on where the inspection hole is in relation to the oem fill hole and if the new one is designed to hold more oil.
Trying this tomorrow. 130,000. I think it's time.
Sorry for the late reply. I just saw your comment. How did everything go?
Great video, torque spec please?
Thanks for the feedback! Surprisingly, there are no torque specs for the differential cover. The general consensus is that they should be between 20-30 ft-lbs, but I don't have anything definitive. At one point, it was recommended to use new bolts each time (I believe this is the reason for the torque range -- the bolts need to be tightened more over time if reused).
There is, however, a torque spec for the fill plug, but it's different throughout the GMT-800 years. For a 1999, the rear diff fill plug is torqued to 45 ft-lbs; for 2000 and 2001, it is torqued to 24; for 2002-2007 (before the body change), it is torqued to 20 ft-lbs if you have a 9.75" ring gear, and to 24 ft-lbs if you have anything other than the 9.75" ring gear. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'll do my best to respond quickly.
@@funcle_kevin Great info, TYVM! Now onto my 2000 YukonXL 🤠👍
@@BPNevada Glad I could help!
30 ft lbs
So, the felpro gasket is all you need? No sealant at all?
@@bryanlyle That is correct. I always recommend just a gasket. Some people like RTV, and I've seen them used together but it always leads to a mess. As long as there's no pitting it the mating surface, you will be fine.
No rtv silicone ? Omg! Did you get a leak? 😮😮😮
@@hashmankiefkowski2129 I never use it on the rear diff. It makes a mess.
@@funcle_kevin ok! Ima take your word for it and try without the silicone! Fingers crossed! 🤞 And thanks for the great video! 💯🎯
@hashmankiefkowski2129 My pleasure! As long as both mating surfaces are clean and you torque the bolts to 18 lbft, you'll be fine.
Does this doff have the drain bolt at the bottom like my 00 suburban ?
@@ramiroduenas573 From what I can tell, some did and some didn't. I think it depended on the differtial itself. This one, being the Eaton locker (rpo g80), does not. I've yet to come across a g80 with a drain plug but I bet I'll see one as soon as I hit send!
@@funcle_kevin my 00 g80 had it lol. From what I can tell my 06 Silverado doesn't tho
@@ramiroduenas573 I knew that was going to happen! My next guess is maybe it has to do with either the tow package or the z71 package. This truck has both.
Or maybe they ran out of drill bits!
@@funcle_kevin makes me sad. Lol
One for Chesty...
Rahhh
Is that a cork gasket?
No. I'm pretty sure it's cellulose but Fel-Pro doesn't give specifics on their materials as far as I know.
It’s paper, you can get cork ones that have a metal stiffener
I just did mine, pumped 4 quarts into the rear and it never spilled out…
In a 1500 with the factory diff? Something is not right. For starters, the rear diff isn't a fill and spill set up, it needs to be a specific distance below the fill hole. Regardless, with 4 qts, you should have seen some spill out. Without seeing it, I would have to guess the truck either wasn't level, or has a rear diff from a 2500 or 3500.
@@funcle_kevin or a leak in the axle seal/gaskets?
@@tommytwo-tips5785 Definitely possible, although I would think they'd have to be almost nonexistent for the oil to push past them without any resistance. You could pull a tire and see if you see oil pouring out, but the absence of oil doesn't necessarily disprove the theory.
@@tommytwo-tips5785 wouldn’t you see that leaking out as you fill it?
@@kellismith4329 no I didn’t! I laid under my truck for 25 minutes. Had no idea where it was going, but I took it around the block and came back and it was leaking. Saw it coming from the passenger axle where it meets the diff. It’s in the shop right now, I’d do it myself but I’m in the middle of packing to move so didn’t want the extra stress