I am returning to one of several of your videos that helped me in restoring a 15-91 that my husband inherited from his great grandmother and was not stored in the best conditions. The entire process was like a college course and you were one of my teachers. I can tell you that it was a success and she purrs like a kitten in her number 40, refinished, Queen Anne style cabinet! It took me two months from stool to cabinet to a cleaned up working machine. Thank you for your videos, they were very, very helpful!!!
Thank you for the review on wiring switched circuits. My machine stopped working and I discovered the wire nuts had come loose on two connections. It was great to verify I was reconnecting properly.
Thank you so much for your video! I’m doing my research before getting started on a 15. Your video has given much insight for the work I have ahead. I’m restoring the cabinet while learning more about the machine. I’m going to watch more of your videos in the meantime. 😊
Thank for validating my understanding how the different wiring is done on the various machines. My question that still remains is about the hot and neutral wiring concetions on those different leads..... maybe I am just over thinking it, it still works.... Thank again...awesome job...
Hi Jorge, As you know, "Modern" plugs used here in the US are polarized, with one blade wider than the other. The wide blade goes to the neutral side of the outlet. The plugs and outlets used "back in the day" had equal sized blades and could be inserted in either orientation. Most 2 conductor lamp cord has one conductor where the insulation is smooth, the other conductor has insulation with ribs. The ribbed conductor is the neutral, and connects to the wide blade on the plug and the outside contact of the light socket. The smaller blade of the plug gets the "hot" connection and so it gets the conductor with the smooth insulation and the center terminal on the light socket. Best practice is to ensure that the "hot" conductors go to any switches and to the motor controller, so plan your wiring accordingly.
If anyone is looking for those brass washers, I found them at Home Depot! There's a 12 pack of 8s washers for $3. They are a little larger in overall diameter than the original, but they fit the block just fine.
I bought a Singer 99K without base, and I think it's "hard wired" (twisted and capped the wires for the motor, foot pedal and light). I need to update the plug and foot pedal. Would you recommend a block? The wires at the base of the motor which were twisted together are very short.
In the US, you essentially have 3 options the magnitude of difficulty is based on the type of light the machine has and your tolerance for dealing with pains of diisassembly of said light (if you're outside of the US, the rules can be very different, so you need to check if any of my suggestions are valid in your country): 1) Replace just the power cord and controller wires (easiest and least expensive route) 2) Rewire both motor and lamp to use standard power plugs, the use a pre-made controller that has a duplex recepticle wired and labeled for lamp and motor. 3) Convert to a Singer 3 pin power block that uses standard 3 pin Singer controller wiring. Options 2 and 3 are more difficult than option 1, especially if you have the "bug eye" style lamp housing, which is a collossal pain in the posterior to disassemble, and has the absolute worst switch design ever to come out of the entire sewing machine industry in the 20th century. Option 3 also has the difficulty and expense of locating, not just a power block, but also a replacement motor mount to attach said power block to your machine. Before you've even started, you will have dropped considerable funds for the replacement mounting and wiring hardware - and you'll still need a power cord (and controller if you decide to go the electronic controller route. I should also say that there is an option 1a) rewire the power cord, and replace the controller with a modern electronic unit. This is also a distinct possibility, and will raise the price, but at least the hardware is easily acquired. I hope this clarifies things for you!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop It does, thank you. I am in the US and I got the machine for $10. If I can figure out a way to gig it to work in my treadle 66 base I'll do that, but I don't think that's possible. My husband is good with wiring, maybe he can do option 1. I don't care about the light.
My Spartan is hardwired to the motor and I just want to replace the foot controller with an electronic one. Do I need to also replace the wire or just the foot unit? What unit would you recommend and what gauge wire if the wire needs to be replaced?
Hey Bob, I found a 306W this week and made the mistake of removing the foot pedal wire in order to get the machine out and I’m looking for a video to figure out where to put it back. I think this is the video I need but I’m wondering where the ribbed wires go! You didn’t mention it here. Does it matter? I should have taken a better video, the video I did take, I didn’t pay attention to the ribbed wire, ugh! Thanks
Hi Rhonda, The wiring is pretty simple, and if you look at the diagrams on my website that are linked in the video description, you'll be fine. As for the ribbed wire... (This only applies to North America, the UK and EU do things differently). These machines were not polarized nor did they have a ground (earth) connection back in the time when they were made. The wall plugs back then used two, equal sized blades. Modern plugs have a larger width blade for the neutral, and a narrow blade for the hot side. If you are using the "modern" US wiring plug with the two sizes of blades, the ribbed conductor would be the neutral, and be attached to the wider blade. On the machine connector end, I put the neutral on pin 3 (the one with the red dot), but there is no absolute requirement to do so. I hope this helps.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop that’s great information to know but more so a relief! So glad I found the video. I did a screenshot of the diagram and saved it to my files! As usual, you’ve come through. Thanks a bunch!
For the 99 with the round power adapter, what could I use for a back cover? I have one that's missing and I'm scared to plug it in the socket. 😬 I'm not sure adapter is the right term, but the part that plugs into the wall 🤔 😳 I don't know how to word it 🤪😂 Motor isn't working for the short time I did have it plugged in. I have the other spare motor but the wiring on that is taped. I must watch more videos. Trying so hard to keep up, Bob. I apologize I'm so far behind. 😪🥺😭
I am returning to one of several of your videos that helped me in restoring a 15-91 that my husband inherited from his great grandmother and was not stored in the best conditions.
The entire process was like a college course and you were one of my teachers.
I can tell you that it was a success and she purrs like a kitten in her number 40, refinished, Queen Anne style cabinet!
It took me two months from stool to cabinet to a cleaned up working machine.
Thank you for your videos, they were very, very helpful!!!
Great video Bob. I have a 99 I’m going to be tackling soon where I need to add the singer light to it.
Thank you Bob! Another wonderful video I needed to repair a light fixture on my 99💕❤️Have a great day Bob😊
Thank you for the review on wiring switched circuits. My machine stopped working and I discovered the wire nuts had come loose on two connections. It was great to verify I was reconnecting properly.
Thank you so much for your video! I’m doing my research before getting started on a 15. Your video has given much insight for the work I have ahead. I’m restoring the cabinet while learning more about the machine. I’m going to watch more of your videos in the meantime. 😊
Thank for validating my understanding how the different wiring is done on the various machines. My question that still remains is about the hot and neutral wiring concetions on those different leads..... maybe I am just over thinking it, it still works....
Thank again...awesome job...
Hi Jorge, As you know, "Modern" plugs used here in the US are polarized, with one blade wider than the other. The wide blade goes to the neutral side of the outlet. The plugs and outlets used "back in the day" had equal sized blades and could be inserted in either orientation. Most 2 conductor lamp cord has one conductor where the insulation is smooth, the other conductor has insulation with ribs. The ribbed conductor is the neutral, and connects to the wide blade on the plug and the outside contact of the light socket. The smaller blade of the plug gets the "hot" connection and so it gets the conductor with the smooth insulation and the center terminal on the light socket. Best practice is to ensure that the "hot" conductors go to any switches and to the motor controller, so plan your wiring accordingly.
Thank you so much. I am having to rewire a 15-91 and a 201. Your videos are always so helpful. Such a blessing.
Glad to help
Oh I loved this one!!! You really simplified a process that seemed so complicated! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
If anyone is looking for those brass washers, I found them at Home Depot! There's a 12 pack of 8s washers for $3. They are a little larger in overall diameter than the original, but they fit the block just fine.
Cool! Thanks for this video.
Glad you liked it!
Hi, great video......good job.
Hey, thanks
Thanks so much for your clear explanations. Where could I buy one of those duplex receptacle units?
HONEYSEW Universal Foot Control Pedal W/Light & Motor Block
www.amazon.com/dp/B08T22JC7M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I decided to try and redo the light. Do I heat shrink at the join of wire to screws on either side?
You are super!
No, but you may want to wrap with a layer of electrical tape
Awwwww, shucks Ma'am...
Hey, I'm practicing and learning on a machine that was going to be tossed. But I want to do it right and safe.;)
I bought a Singer 99K without base, and I think it's "hard wired" (twisted and capped the wires for the motor, foot pedal and light). I need to update the plug and foot pedal. Would you recommend a block? The wires at the base of the motor which were twisted together are very short.
In the US, you essentially have 3 options the magnitude of difficulty is based on the type of light the machine has and your tolerance for dealing with pains of diisassembly of said light (if you're outside of the US, the rules can be very different, so you need to check if any of my suggestions are valid in your country):
1) Replace just the power cord and controller wires (easiest and least expensive route)
2) Rewire both motor and lamp to use standard power plugs, the use a pre-made controller that has a duplex recepticle wired and labeled for lamp and motor.
3) Convert to a Singer 3 pin power block that uses standard 3 pin Singer controller wiring.
Options 2 and 3 are more difficult than option 1, especially if you have the "bug eye" style lamp housing, which is a collossal pain in the posterior to disassemble, and has the absolute worst switch design ever to come out of the entire sewing machine industry in the 20th century. Option 3 also has the difficulty and expense of locating, not just a power block, but also a replacement motor mount to attach said power block to your machine. Before you've even started, you will have dropped considerable funds for the replacement mounting and wiring hardware - and you'll still need a power cord (and controller if you decide to go the electronic controller route.
I should also say that there is an option 1a) rewire the power cord, and replace the controller with a modern electronic unit. This is also a distinct possibility, and will raise the price, but at least the hardware is easily acquired.
I hope this clarifies things for you!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop It does, thank you. I am in the US and I got the machine for $10. If I can figure out a way to gig it to work in my treadle 66 base I'll do that, but I don't think that's possible. My husband is good with wiring, maybe he can do option 1. I don't care about the light.
My Spartan is hardwired to the motor and I just want to replace the foot controller with an electronic one. Do I need to also replace the wire or just the foot unit? What unit would you recommend and what gauge wire if the wire needs to be replaced?
You can get just the foot unit itself and use 18 gauge lamp cord of whatever length you choose (within reason) to wire it into the circuit.
Hey Bob, I found a 306W this week and made the mistake of removing the foot pedal wire in order to get the machine out and I’m looking for a video to figure out where to put it back. I think this is the video I need but I’m wondering where the ribbed wires go! You didn’t mention it here. Does it matter? I should have taken a better video, the video I did take, I didn’t pay attention to the ribbed wire, ugh! Thanks
Hi Rhonda, The wiring is pretty simple, and if you look at the diagrams on my website that are linked in the video description, you'll be fine. As for the ribbed wire... (This only applies to North America, the UK and EU do things differently). These machines were not polarized nor did they have a ground (earth) connection back in the time when they were made. The wall plugs back then used two, equal sized blades. Modern plugs have a larger width blade for the neutral, and a narrow blade for the hot side. If you are using the "modern" US wiring plug with the two sizes of blades, the ribbed conductor would be the neutral, and be attached to the wider blade. On the machine connector end, I put the neutral on pin 3 (the one with the red dot), but there is no absolute requirement to do so. I hope this helps.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop that’s great information to know but more so a relief! So glad I found the video. I did a screenshot of the diagram and saved it to my files! As usual, you’ve come through. Thanks a bunch!
For the 99 with the round power adapter, what could I use for a back cover? I have one that's missing and I'm scared to plug it in the socket. 😬 I'm not sure adapter is the right term, but the part that plugs into the wall 🤔 😳 I don't know how to word it 🤪😂 Motor isn't working for the short time I did have it plugged in. I have the other spare motor but the wiring on that is taped. I must watch more videos. Trying so hard to keep up, Bob. I apologize I'm so far behind. 😪🥺😭