also its being in harmony with nature the awe that you feel looking at a wave break, the spontaneous gratitude that you feel for being able to witness something so beautiful the humility when you are shown how little you really are when facing the ocean is what makes you happy
slater also said once that 'surfing is like the mafia, once your in, there is no getting out' it does something to your head! ive surfed for 20 years now and still get butterflies in my stomach and needing the toilet badly just from the excitement on what to expect out on the line up.
As a Clinical Psychologist and a surfer I completely agree with you. I researched Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi's book "Finding Flow" back in college. He originated the term "Flow State" for activities where one's skills and abilities are in sync/almost exceeded by the activity to the point that one loses sense of time and is completely engaged. Surfing is a perfect activity for this state, as with such a dynamic environment as the ocean one has to be completely aware. It's the opposite of getting on a treadmill or an exercise bike and tuning out. Instead one is "tuned in" and it's a good way to evaluate your own emotional/affective state. I've often gone to the water in a funk or in a quandary and getting wet helped me clear my mind and achieve some catharsis. FYI as a yoga instructor I'd add that a regular yoga practice is another good activity for producing a Flow State as well.....for when the surf is flat ;)
For me It's the ocean man! The beautiful salt water gives so much to us.. You get a tan and it's better than the gym. Surfers have that glow simply because they're chiseled by their environment. The salt water, waves, sun, ocean life. Nothing else like it!
Surfing is the best high going ... Stoked is a good place to be . That warm glow you feel after a good session.. Good chemicals firing from the brain , there’s no substitute . Once the surf bug bites you , your hooked . Working on your skills in the water and seeing the progression is a huge part of the feel good ! Great video , good breakdown of what is happening to ones mind and body and spirit from surfing 🏄 Enjoy the Ride Aloha 🤙🏻
Just got back into surfing after 2 years off! Couldn’t believe how good I felt after my first surf back! Absolutely right about flow state- I get the same feeling when writing music! Flow State is the Best State
I just started surfing but I’ve been skating for awhile and I get that feeling of flow when I’m skating the bowl or just pushing around my local skate park
Great video and explanation! The mind-body connection is very powerful. The adrenaline and dopamine that is released in our brains from extreme sports almost always has a beneficial and lasting effect. What I love about the flow state as well is that it tends to leave the person in flow almost totally uninhibited … great way to be in the midst of challenge and skillful exertion.
This is so true, surfing motorbikes, downhill mtb all give some great flow but surfing is the best, I think because so much is changing and the beauty and how small a wave can make you feel when it goes wrong
Yup surfing exalts and humbles more in one sesh than weeks on land. Maybe it takes more to get me excited outside the waves, but on the other hand I'm so used to getting worked in the ocean and laughing it off that little things on land don't trigger much frustration in me. people have commented on how I seem to just take things in stride.
I am a fairly new surfer 🏄♀️. I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf because the whole vibe that surfers give off. This was honestly the best thing I’ve ever done and it’s so fun!!!!! And thanks to How to Rip, I’ve improved a lot!♥️. Love you guys!
Great insight! The stoke certainly is still fizzing after a few days! Surfing for me is the point where you loose yourself but also find yourself. Great vid, keep ‘em coming!
@@KalesBroccoli isnt'it why 90% of us are doing it? I mean, Point Break, man! that, and the fact that playing with waves has always made me laugh like crazy since I can remember!
Skateboarders also experience flow but they're stereotypically moody and depressed. I think the big thing is flow combined with the connection to nature.
Great video by the way. You touched on some great points about surfing i didnt know to that much detail... Thanks !!! You didnt touch on one major point which many people dont know about.... And sorry, no im not going to mention it... I was hoping you would have spoken about it...
This video is amazing, I love the concept ! You are so good to explain it, and it really makes me want to surf *-* You're amazing, thank you for all your videos and tips !!
If surfers are so happy (and I love surfing) why is the average surfer so unfriendly and stand-offish in the water? Now I've never been down-under, but in California, Hawaii, and Central America, I find surfers to be down-right unfriendly. If I mountain bike or trail run or skateboard the average bloke I cross paths with will greet you, chat, wish you the best, etc, but this is not the case with surfers. They seem like a mix of macho, loner, and territorial (and I'm not talking about crowded celebrity breaks). This always takes me down a notch. Too bad. BTW, I love your videos, they make me feel good. Chris.
I definitely notice this a lot in California as well Chris :) but surfers I’ve found are mostly still happy within their social groups even if they’re not externally friendly
Agree with all of this... but what's going on with those grumpy surfers that you meet sometimes? I also feel like happiness is connected in some way to an activity that has no innate practical purpose.
Hi kale, this video is the best , i would like to have some advise for an essay that i am writing about surfing. i can't find articles or research i need, I wonder if you could point me to the right path. Thank you so much for your videos they helped me a lot improving my surf skills.
I feel like we need to acknowledge that surf culture, broadly speaking, is actually pretty hostile, angry and greedy. I think its an achievement to be happy and friendly as a surfer.
Kale be good to get your take on why there's such a downer from a not so great surf. Not relating endorphin withdrawal from lack of surfing rather the effect of having a bad day i.e got dropped in on, wasn't surfing great etc.. Flow state seems a lot related to the findings of the "The talent Code" Daniel Coyle. Flow state relates well to his material and basically confirms why Kelly is insanely talented. I wonder if flow state is the effect of being able to visualise and apply this on a consistent level? anyway interesting stuff, was looking forward to the retreat but 2020 ok
I think it’s the expectation not being met which creates such a downer after a disappointing surf. Moderate the expectation first and then normally you’ll feel better about the result 😁
I agree with Kale - I find it’s usually the mind game around it - Sometimes I just set a goal Of catching x Waves regardless of quality - Then if I get awesome waves it’s a bonus
It's a phase. Take a kid surfing and you'll forget yourself enough to have fun. Meanwhile just keep up on your training and you'll have that to be proud of regardless of externals. Also helps to try alternative boards that are more realistic in some conditions. Best to Laugh when you flub, and if you get cut off, don't dwell on it: losing your flow is worse than losing a wave !
Everything is relative. I am seeing less and less stoke in the water due to breaks being over crowded. Videos like this are a huge contributing factors. Stealth is wealth.
Great argument! Just as my earlier statement for i have no evidence backing it up my beliefs, your video is complete pseudoscience. Falsely generalizing a large population of humans being happier then the "rest" of people because of flow state with no actual data supporting your claims.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6lZ6b3_7Vo/mqdefault.jpg)
also its being in harmony with nature
the awe that you feel looking at a wave break,
the spontaneous gratitude that you feel for being able to witness something so beautiful
the humility when you are shown how little you really are when facing the ocean is what makes you happy
slater also said once that 'surfing is like the mafia, once your in, there is no getting out' it does something to your head! ive surfed for 20 years now and still get butterflies in my stomach and needing the toilet badly just from the excitement on what to expect out on the line up.
Hahaha yeah pre surf poop excitement!!!
hey man that was stacy peralta
mafia right...
As a Clinical Psychologist and a surfer I completely agree with you. I researched Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi's book "Finding Flow" back in college. He originated the term "Flow State" for activities where one's skills and abilities are in sync/almost exceeded by the activity to the point that one loses sense of time and is completely engaged. Surfing is a perfect activity for this state, as with such a dynamic environment as the ocean one has to be completely aware. It's the opposite of getting on a treadmill or an exercise bike and tuning out. Instead one is "tuned in" and it's a good way to evaluate your own emotional/affective state. I've often gone to the water in a funk or in a quandary and getting wet helped me clear my mind and achieve some catharsis. FYI as a yoga instructor I'd add that a regular yoga practice is another good activity for producing a Flow State as well.....for when the surf is flat ;)
Awesome Steven! Love it 🤙🏽🙌🏽
Well said ❤
For me It's the ocean man! The beautiful salt water gives so much to us.. You get a tan and it's better than the gym. Surfers have that glow simply because they're chiseled by their environment. The salt water, waves, sun, ocean life. Nothing else like it!
Surfing is the best high going ...
Stoked is a good place to be .
That warm glow you feel after a good session..
Good chemicals firing from the brain , there’s no substitute .
Once the surf bug bites you , your hooked .
Working on your skills in the water and seeing the progression is a huge part of the feel good !
Great video , good breakdown of what is happening to ones mind and body and spirit from surfing 🏄
Enjoy the Ride
Aloha
🤙🏻
🤙🏽❤️🏄🏼♂️
Started surfing to cope with ptsd and depression. 7 years later I have a nonprofit for disabled surfers. Flow state forever ❤️
Just got back into surfing after 2 years off! Couldn’t believe how good I felt after my first surf back! Absolutely right about flow state- I get the same feeling when writing music! Flow State is the Best State
Starting now is a better time than any. FREEEEDOM!
I just started surfing but I’ve been skating for awhile and I get that feeling of flow when I’m skating the bowl or just pushing around my local skate park
i feel like snowboarding/ skiing has a similar effect
Probably 🤙🏽 all flow states
the cold gets you a bit reserved with snowboarding/skiing
yeah I agree 💯
Same with skating
I am a surfer and a snow boarder and I will say yes!
Great video and explanation! The mind-body connection is very powerful. The adrenaline and dopamine that is released in our brains from extreme sports almost always has a beneficial and lasting effect. What I love about the flow state as well is that it tends to leave the person in flow almost totally uninhibited … great way to be in the midst of challenge and skillful exertion.
All board sports share the similar feel
This is so true, surfing motorbikes, downhill mtb all give some great flow but surfing is the best, I think because so much is changing and the beauty and how small a wave can make you feel when it goes wrong
❤️❤️
Yup surfing exalts and humbles more in one sesh than weeks on land. Maybe it takes more to get me excited outside the waves, but on the other hand I'm so used to getting worked in the ocean and laughing it off that little things on land don't trigger much frustration in me. people have commented on how I seem to just take things in stride.
@@davidgough3512 Marussia amamos anaiia 93anos mesmo na veia tmj rapazze cuidarmos
The shot at 2:13 was just amazing 🤩
The most underrated channel out there, you should have hit 100k a while ago. This channel is amazing and the tutorials are amazing!
Yuuuu!! 🤙🤙🤙
Would love to see a video on how you approach your selection of which beach to go to and when (factors like; wind, swell, tide, time of day...etc...)
I am a fairly new surfer 🏄♀️. I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf because the whole vibe that surfers give off. This was honestly the best thing I’ve ever done and it’s so fun!!!!! And thanks to How to Rip, I’ve improved a lot!♥️. Love you guys!
Awesome :) great news!!
Surfing Heals.......
"surfings the rush, man. It'll change your life"
-Point Break
source*
The real reason is because it’s so fun. Nothing else compares.
Dance is another great way to get into flow state.
Dham bom dia das crianças que ir junto vamos só vibe ã que ir 2junto vamos só vibe te ligo
Great insight! The stoke certainly is still fizzing after a few days! Surfing for me is the point where you loose yourself but also find yourself. Great vid, keep ‘em coming!
Love it - spoken like true Bodhi Point Break stylz
Kales Broccoli can’t believe I totally plagiarised such an iconic movie. Apologies!
-but maybe he was hinting at a larger truth?!
@@KalesBroccoli isnt'it why 90% of us are doing it? I mean, Point Break, man! that, and the fact that playing with waves has always made me laugh like crazy since I can remember!
Skateboarders also experience flow but they're stereotypically moody and depressed. I think the big thing is flow combined with the connection to nature.
Great video by the way. You touched on some great points about surfing i didnt know to that much detail... Thanks !!! You didnt touch on one major point which many people dont know about.... And sorry, no im not going to mention it... I was hoping you would have spoken about it...
This video is amazing, I love the concept !
You are so good to explain it, and it really makes me want to surf *-*
You're amazing, thank you for all your videos and tips !!
Thank you!! 😁😁😁
Bomb vids man! Inspiring! Aloha from Santa Cruz California
Thanks!! Love SC
Such a great video. Thanks so much
This was sick man! Cheers for the cracking vid
Thanks lachie!!
If surfers are so happy (and I love surfing) why is the average surfer so unfriendly and stand-offish in the water? Now I've never been down-under, but in California, Hawaii, and Central America, I find surfers to be down-right unfriendly. If I mountain bike or trail run or skateboard the average bloke I cross paths with will greet you, chat, wish you the best, etc, but this is not the case with surfers. They seem like a mix of macho, loner, and territorial (and I'm not talking about crowded celebrity breaks). This always takes me down a notch. Too bad. BTW, I love your videos, they make me feel good. Chris.
I definitely notice this a lot in California as well Chris :) but surfers I’ve found are mostly still happy within their social groups even if they’re not externally friendly
i've never knew what "localism" was until someone yelled at me and tried to toss my Wavestorm board out on the beach.
Surfing is the opposite of golf in every way.
Es felicidad plena
Agree with all of this... but what's going on with those grumpy surfers that you meet sometimes? I also feel like happiness is connected in some way to an activity that has no innate practical purpose.
I think "grounding" / "earthing" can be one of the main reasons surfers are so happy..
for suree!
I think Jiujitsu has the flow state and interval exercise release endorphins too.
Love your videos. I was hoping you could tell me the name of the track at the end of the video. Pretty dope.
Hi kale, this video is the best , i would like to have some advise for an essay that i am writing about surfing. i can't find articles or research i need, I wonder if you could point me to the right path. Thank you so much for your videos they helped me a lot improving my surf skills.
great vid, aloha from south spain..yeew!
Thanks!! 😁
surfing is effective b/se it stimulates the vestibular sense.
Surfing Heals
Could u make a video on what hip and leg muscles we need for surfing
Got one coming
How about the Ionization? I heard when the waves break its charge the water and its what makes as happier.
More to do with the charge of the water
I feel like we need to acknowledge that surf culture, broadly speaking, is actually pretty hostile, angry and greedy. I think its an achievement to be happy and friendly as a surfer.
Anything that helps us deny aging ( which start more rapidly in the late 20s)and eventual death makes us happy . The question is , for how long ?
Until we’re 100 for sure?
64 and still stoking.. still developing my read on the wave and improving my style. And definitely better at judging when and where to go out !
Yew!! @@davidgough3512
Bau22781anau z
Bring on the flow bro, tc oma feb 2019...
🤙🏽
awesome bru!!🐬
sick video mate!!!
Thank you 😁
I am injured and haven’t been able to surf and I have been a lot less happy
yay!
IMPOSSIBLE TO IGNORE! It’s impossible to have a bad day after you’ve surfed. PROVEN FACT
Kale be good to get your take on why there's such a downer from a not so great surf. Not relating endorphin withdrawal from lack of surfing rather the effect of having a bad day i.e got dropped in on, wasn't surfing great etc.. Flow state seems a lot related to the findings of the "The talent Code" Daniel Coyle. Flow state relates well to his material and basically confirms why Kelly is insanely talented. I wonder if flow state is the effect of being able to visualise and apply this on a consistent level? anyway interesting stuff, was looking forward to the retreat but 2020 ok
I think it’s the expectation not being met which creates such a downer after a disappointing surf. Moderate the expectation first and then normally you’ll feel better about the result 😁
I agree with Kale - I find it’s usually the mind game around it -
Sometimes I just set a goal
Of catching x
Waves regardless of quality -
Then if I get awesome waves it’s a bonus
It's a phase. Take a kid surfing and you'll forget yourself enough to have fun. Meanwhile just keep up on your training and you'll have that to be proud of regardless of externals. Also helps to try alternative boards that are more realistic in some conditions. Best to Laugh when you flub, and if you get cut off, don't dwell on it: losing your flow is worse than losing a wave !
Totally! Losing your flow is worse than being dropped in on! @@davidgough3512
love it :) @@johnanderson3731
Everything is relative. I am seeing less and less stoke in the water due to breaks being over crowded. Videos like this are a huge contributing factors. Stealth is wealth.
Nope
Great argument! Just as my earlier statement for i have no evidence backing it up my beliefs, your video is complete pseudoscience. Falsely generalizing a large population of humans being happier then the "rest" of people because of flow state with no actual data supporting your claims.
there is actually plenty of research mate @@pnuema1.618
@@KalesBroccoli its cool if you dont want to see my point. But its pseudoscience.
Hi bro what camera did you use to film this video?
We use an FS700 and a Canon 7D
They seem to be more grumpy than Sup surfers! 😉
That’s cause they’re dealing with SUP surfers
Good
😁😎
Love your videos would love to surf with u one day
Thanks Kye!!
Surf Bells on a pumping Saturday or any other Surfcoast break and you'll see surfers are not happy.
😂
what is your day job ?
🎥
Porn industry?
I dunno, surfers in Northern California seem angry to me lolz
in a flat day hmmm
😄