Thanks for the great video Jordan. I'm an architect and 20 years ago the builder I do most of my work with came to me with the approach of doing spray foam to the underside of the roof deck. I was reluctant at first due to lack of ventilation but was sold on the conditioned attic. I have probably about eight houses with this, most with that builder. I also renovated a church and did the same method to help eliminate ice damming. The damming didn't go away not so much because of the new insulation, but probably because the existing masonry walls had minimal insulation that was allowing heat to get to the underside of the soffits and roof. It was also on a West wall with a tree creating shade and Shadow throughout the day, which screwed up any continuous daylight on the roof. I did a little more research and found a Lstiburek video where he said you still have to ventilate these roofs, particularly in Northern climates. Your solution with the battens and an additional sheathing system is what I concluded we should had done and I advised the church that when they re-roof they should add this as well. I also came across a system called the DCI SmartBaffle, a PVC panel like corrugated cardboard that creates ventilation chutes between the joist underneath the sheathing. I honestly don't know which approach would be cheaper but I plan to look at it the next house I do.
I've been a journey carpenter for 35 years, and I love your building envelope system. I live in Canada, and built R2000 homes for years. Your method is very well founded. 👌
Yep that's the standard. Only issue is not being able to inspect trusses to make sure your nails are hitting. Foam adhesive takes care of most of the risks of anchoring being an issue. Modern sheathing issint going to end up like 1970s plywood.
I thought the same thing, but could possibly have an issue with moisture getting between the two layers of decking, then being driven towards the inside and into the spray foam. Could resolve that issue with furring strips between the two layers for an air gap, like in his 3rd option. Would then just need to deal with the increased deck thickness when it comes to the facia and any penetrations that have to be a certain distance above the decking.
Spray foam does not void a shingle warranty. The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act prevents this. What it does do is give the manufacturer the easiest out to be able to deny a warranty claim because the deck is unventilated and the manufacturer will inevitably claim the inadequate ventilate caused the failure and it’s not a manufacturer defect. All manufacturers have issued TB’s on this.
Take them to court. All shingle manufacturers have tested their shingles to be good at a higher temperature then what foam will cause. They decline because they keep getting away with it.
Hi Jordan, this might be a silly question, but is there a risk of condensation on the inside face of the 2" of polyiso? Or is it considered permeable enough that any moisture would condense on the roof deck and be dried out by the venting? In the case of the former, should the attic be conditioned appropriately to remove moisture to in the interior?
Replacing the roof wood is more of a pain in the ass than calling a guy out to spray the repaired areas. There’s houses from the 20’s with original wood on the roof, your first two concerns about spray foam are not even worth stressing over.
@@semosancus5506 not really a builder here - just a guy who spends too much time thinking about how to solve problems on my own homes/projects 😆 Pretty sure you would need some engineering/design help but you could probably size roof vents that can be set close to the peek of the hip roof on the faces to aid in venting the roof assembly.. This is not insurmountable problem in my mind...a good engineer or architecture (or builder) should have a solution since such roofs are fairly common even on new builds and as long as they have experience with such a roof system, they have probably dealt with the problem before... In my area the hip roofs are mostly on ranch style homes so they still have a substantial amount of ridge go use for venting but I live in an older neighborhood so yeah... IMO, just spraying it at the deck is a recipe for disaster in the long run...
Well, they should. :) The trick will be getting enough ventilation at the peak of the witch hat roof. Ridge vents up the hip? I would be concerned about getting enough ventilation with or without the insulated deck.
@@JordanSmithBuilds There's really no getting around the fact with this type of foam insulation. You are putting all the screws in bending, which drops their strength by a ton. Plus, you lose the added strength that closed-cell spray foam gives you. I would rather have CCSF with a plywood deck; you can cover it with an ice and water shield type product and build an airgap with 2 by material and another layer of decking over it.
That's a pretty nice design! Very hard to find subs that want to try new things, but hope to find people I can get creative with. I might have to do a lot of the extra work myself on my next house.
Can foam to roof deck with no problems. Both can pose issues and challenges when repairing. Enough R-value and humidity control and you're good inside. Good roof outside. Water will eventually make it through the foam. Can cut out areas and repair. Also can seal out leaks and prevent costlier damage.
I have seen a 50% drop in my electric bills: I had an energy audit done on a 33 year old home that had R38 on the ceiling joist(attic) and no insulation in the roof rafters. New Energy Start standard in Baltimore is R60 in the attic -- local power company is pushing R47 -- local code is R38. My basement and crawl spaces were vented to the outside and there was no insulation in the basement ceiling. Energy auditor wanted to spay foam the rafter and crawl space walls. My neighbor has his own roofing business and he said I should not/not put spay foam in the rafters -- I agreed. I had no problem with space foam on the crawl space walls. I decided to install Rafter Baffles, R38 fiberglass insulation in the rafters, and Perforated RadiantGUARD under the rafters-the house already had ridge vents. The attic temperature now stays about half way between the interior house temperature and outside temperature. The attic can dry out like a vented attic via the Perforated RadiantGUARD though the fiberglass insulation (Rockwool would have been better, but $$$$). Rafters sheathing can dry out via the air space between the sheathing and Rafter Baffles. My effective attic insulation is now a little less than R72 (R38 in rafters plus R38 in ceiling joist) because of the R13 insulation in the attic side walls. The attic HVAC system temperature now stays near the half way point between inside and outside temperatures -- better than setting in 17F in the winter and 140F in the summer. I also added foam boards to crawl spaces and basement walls. I also installed an ERV In lieu of Energy auditor 's suggestion to use a bathroom vent set to vent the house at 50cfm - 50cfm would have cost me $$$ in the winter and summer. by the way, I only turn on the ERV when the outside temperature is +/- 3 degrees of my inside temperature. (might have been more cost effective in using the bathroom fan but no one sells a controller connected to the house inside and outside temperatures to control a bathroom fan.) I still have some insulation work to do behind some knee walls and when the HVAC system is upgraded, I'll add R8 to the attic duct work.
@@thelosian Yes, I used unfaced insulation covered by a continuous perforated RadiantGURARD rolls. I also taped all the joints. I had a second energy audit done and the energy auditor quoted me a price to finish the knee walls area(s) based on my approach. One additional point. In Baltimore, our temperatures can change throughout the day from 85F to 55F. I like to keep my inside house between 73F(winter) to 77F (summer). Seems like Honeywell needs a Smart Thermostat that can drive the house’s heat transfer function (K-value: like the home heating oil companies use) based on furnace usage data then used that data with forward looking weather forecast (the temperature and humidity ) to turn on and off a bathroom Exhaust fan to lower electric bills - use a air leaky house to benefit homeowners who does not have a modern
@@PZ-ABCTZ I'm having a hard time finding information about covering rafter insulation with radiant barrier - it seems most applications call for no rafter insulation.
Agree, all your research should show no insulation behind the radiant barrier. In fact, a radiant barrier manufacture, that I initially talked to (email with) said to put the insulation on the attic floor - then one of their coworkers said my approach was OK. So why did I put the radiant barrier below R38 insulation in the rafters? There are lots of reasons driving my approach: (1) My local power company wants R47 (Energy Star wants R60) and I only have R38 in the joists below the attic (2) I did not want to lose attic storage space by adding more installation on the floor. I have a very large unheated attic space -- the center part is 16’x40’ of 8’ clearance. I will one day put insulation behind the attic knee walls. (3) Using spray foam in the rafters can cause rafter rot and off gassing can last years. Note that homeowner in the UK are having problems selling their homes with spray foam because mortgage companies will not give mortgage on house with spray foam because of timber (wood) rod issues. I anticipate one day a large class action lawsuit against Baltimore's BGE power company because of their EMPOWER program efforts to spay form homeowner's attic. (4) I only wanted one vapor barrier so water or water vapor would not get trapped near wood. Already having a vapor barrier behind the drywall and 2nd vapor barrier desirable due to wood rot and mold issues. (5) Insulation that is not support over time will degrade and fall down (suggest reviewing “crawl space” videos of what happens to insulation) The reason I used radiant barrier was (1) to keep the insulation from falling down but could have used metal wire, (2) I used perforated RadiantGURARD so water vaper would pass through the radiant barrier to dry out the attic. (3) I’m a degree (BSEE , Master degree engineer, plus I designed and built my own home). I have lots of Radio Frequency (RF) engineering design experience and training. IR reflection off of the radiant barrier will require space behind the radiant barrier to act as a radiant barrier (technically between 6 to 12 IR wavelength of space - the Impedance of the wave will change toward 377 ohm based on the number of IR wavelength away from the radiant barrier… etc), but fiberglass insulation has lots of space so my engineering insight suggest that radiant barrier below fiberglass insulation will still act as a radiant barrier but degraded. I anticipated very little energy savings benefits during summer (Insulation just heats up) but lots, repeat lots, of heat retention benefit during winter. (4) I wanted to air seal the attic rafters and side walls so I “tape” all the joints between the RadiantGURARD sheets to act as an air sealant - not the best but very little air would get through the perforations. Note 1: I had a second energy audit done half way through the project to see if my approach was working, the old house CFM50 went from 6301 to 4425 (I was about 60% though the project when the blower door test was done the 2nd time). The first energy auditor only proposed a reduction to 5355 with spray foam. I am anticipating a finished project CFM50 of about 2900 using my approach that will give me a ACH50 of about 3.7 (from 8.22). Note 2: the 2nd energy auditor saw that I have not completed the attic insulation and sealing in two very large knee wall locations and the energy auditor proposed a cost, using my approach, to finish the insulation and air sealing in the knee wall area. Note 3: In lieu of the perforated vapor barrier, I could have used (1) netting from Home depot, or (2) smart vapor barrier like MemBrain. I do not know if MemBrain can be left exposed. I chose perforated RadiantGURARD. Hope this helps.
Looks great functionally. I'm not quite sure how you could build it though without putting down a deck before the rigid foam. I don't believe the rigid foam would support anyone's weight. That being said, I've seen you do some really impressive work, so I imagine you'd pull it off somehow.
Sure. I thought of that as well. However, we have people traipsing through attics with drywall ceilings below, and we manage not to go through…. often…. I think this would be a single step install, foam and then osb, foam and then osb, sheet by sheet up the roof.
@@JordanSmithBuildsMaybe reversed? 3/4 structural sheathing (plywood/OSB), air barrier, insulation (polyiso/rockwool), laths, 1/2 or 5/8 sheathing, shingles. The inside layer could be one of the combination sheathing-insulation products from Rockwool or Huber if you wanted to save install time. Or old school a layer at a time. Good video. Thanks for the thoughts!
Same thoughts, however, people traipse through attics knowing drywall will not support their weight. Unless this becomes a common building method, when this decking gets replaced, I strongly doubt the roofers are going to question whether or not this additional layer over the rafters is solid enough to walk on. I also just see the install being too tedious, time consuming, and the details difficult to accomplish. How are they going to air seal the foam if other layers are being put on before you get adjacent sections put up?
So after 100 years when you've replaced your roof 2 or 3 times and grandchildren inherit your home after you're dead, then the spray foam becomes an issue....
I agree with your exterior insulation and air gap. Would a radiant barrier be effective within that gap or do you not need to worry about it with the foam board? I disagree with using shingles. They are a terrible product: They don't last, they damage easily, greater chance of leaking, and they absorb heat and run way hotter. I just had my standing seam metal roof installed on our 1,500 sq/ft new build a few weeks ago for only $7,200, so the price isn't that bad either. We are also spraying foam under the roof deck, which is zipped and taped.
Short answer is yes. Medium answer and long answer below and in the link. “Interestingly, the air-space could be able to resist the incoming or outgoing heat flux from indoors even more than the external cladding when reflective insulation is used on one of the sides of the cavity.” From Rahaminijad Full paper here- www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/23744731.2021.1898819
I've got a small cabin in a heating microclimate, so zero worries about hot days. I'm tired of the insane price of delivered propane, and I need to replace the wood-fiber siding and asphalt shingles anyway, so I thought I'd super insulate, cancel the propane, and go all electric. I've puzzled over insulating the roof. I considered closed-cell spray foam on the underside of the deck, but the building department requires peel-n-stick roof membrane on the lower half of the roof deck to avoid damage from ice dams. I pictured my roof sheathing turning to rotting mush from trapped water. Also, I've got the impression that getting a decent R-value with only spray foam could get pricey. I came up with exactly the same idea you show. I'll remove the shingles and roof sheathing, place multiple layers of rigid foam board insulation directly on the rafters, tape all joints, line up wood furring strips with the rafters, put plywood or OSB decking on the furring strips, finally install the peel-n-stick and shingles. Polyiso is brilliant for Texas, but not so great in Colorado. They've changed the blowing agent over the years to address pollution issues, and have currently settled on an agent that loses R-value as the temperature drops. However, the R-value for XPS goes up with dropping temperature. Maybe I would like a bit of closed cell spray foam between rafters, so any type of polystyrene mounted directly on the rafters is out (EPS or XPS). So foil-faced polyiso directly on the rafters, then a layer or two of XPS above that. I recently picked up a 250-count box of 10-inch TimberLOK screws from my local big-box store at a really good price. Assuming 1.5 inches to penetrate the furring strips, and at least 1.5 inches to anchor into the rafters. This leaves 7 inches for rigid foam board insulation. 1-inch polyiso and three layers of 2-inch XPS sounds about right. This should give about R40 at 25° F. Of course it'll be water-tight, air-tight, and moisture-tight, so by comparison it'll destroy the performance of any type of fluffy insulation. Even so, I might need to add a bit of insulation between rafters as my building department requires at least R49 on top (they seem to be counting on people using fluffy insulation). I think it could work.
You should reevaluate the XPS product you are able to get today. It is not what you think it is. All foam plastic insulation manufacturers were required to change their blowing agents. The XPS industry just ignored and lobbied their way out of the change for 2 decades. Now they have a new blowing agent, new resin mixture and different additives. The XPS (NGX) made today is a completely different product than what existed 5 years ago. It should not be compared to the older XPS products as they have very little in common. It was more than a color change.
This is a great primer for anyone learning about attic insulation and a decent idea, though, i think attaching the decking to the rafters and then using attic baffles/vents between decking and foam/fiberglass might be easier. Seen guys make baffles fast and easy out of foilfaced/rigid foam and handle joints/valleys with irregular rafter layout. Thoughtful stuff about the envelope though, enjoyed this video!
I spray foamed my roof several years back prior to finishing the attic. I'm currently contemplating a roof replacement and am very concerned about what I might have to do if some of the decking needs to be replaced. While I like how well the product performs, part of me wishes I never did the spray foam in the first place.
Have you walked around on your roof? You can tell the plywood that’s needs replacing, it will be very “spongy”. Even if it’s a few sheets you have a superior system to other methods.
Hi. Great video. The preferred roof assembly shown is rafter, 2" foam, 2x4 on side for air gap, sheathing, then roof assembly. Makes a ton of sense. Is the advice to framers & roofers to just be careful with stepping on the foam until the sheathing is laid?
Most rigid sheet foam is 150 to 250 PSI so you would have to be pretty rough to gouge it with steps. Also, most builders are used to walking rafters, the purlins laid flat over the foam would give even better footing than a rafter on edge. Only real risk I see would be a dropped tool, that's moving fast and is going to hit on a small point.
Defiantly lose some shear strength when you put 2" foam board between the rafters and furring strip/ventilation gap… the labor costs and additional materials for this complex.. I don’t see the advantage when you look at studies of spray foam on the roof deck only increasing temperatures 2-3 degrees
@@sparksmcgee6641 you lose strength when you add two inches of foam between the boards and sheeting. You may wish to educate yourself on installation of Huber Zipp insulated sheeting in R12.6 as an example of the detail discussed in this video. -Additional requirement of code - engineer and fastener requirements @9:24 you can see that the foam is being placed between the rafter AND the furring strip before the OSB. Typical construction - no specific training- no special fasteners - no engineering +and the strength of spray foam is a far superior method. Don’t argue it Sparks - build the roof he’s saying - I’ll be happy for you. :)
@TriDaddy I know that vs the same OSB without foam. The point is you adjust for that so it meets thr specs you need or just code. You're saying that's a "problem" or unaddressed issue with this system. These videos are targeting trades so commenting as if the work addressing shear limitations of the products or that you can't get the same shear strength installing the product as without the product just isn't true. Every construction video doesn't need to start with "First the earth cooled and then came the dinosaurs...........".
@@sparksmcgee6641 Its possible to get the same shear strength in your approach - but it will cost you more in skilled labor and likely need engineering approval. Likewise it would be nice for you to validate the fact that spray foam attached to the roof deck increased stregnth of the building assembly over your proposed approach. Here is a nice video on sprafoaming the roof deck. We began doing this in 2022 that I've tracked/validated no cause for concern with shingle life. th-cam.com/video/hJTDvDPtF0A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cBpoF8Yh3FtBoZYt I'd encourage you trying this aswell.
Would the code be satisfied with 2x10 rafters (r30) 1/2 in poly iso and 1x4 furring strips on roof For a Most affordable version? You have 2in foam and 2x4 furring… requiring some specialty fasteners?
I agree with one aspect of this, your last model may, because of the continuous outside shell be the most energy efficient, but also maybe not. That having been said, what are your costs associated with this? You mention the main benefit being if you need to reroof, but realistically, a properly installed roofing would only need to be replaced once in one's lifetime, if upkept properly. Closed cell foam performs very well even with only 3" applied in a wall cavity, and as far as sealing your framing seams, that is pretty much something required in any build today. Applied correctly I believe Closed Cell (and possibly just some suppliers) outperforms any system on the market, in bang for the buck. I think that is indisputable. Could you spend a lot of time and money and come up with something that could outperform a few inches of closed cell? Probably, but at what cost? I have watch a lot of videos because I am a contractor too, but I do see people in the business spend a lot of other peoples money doing things that won't return them their money. Personally I think we need to (at least for the most part) come up with a design that will build a good tight home without breaking the bank for the everyday build. We are driving the cost of homes up too high too fast in my opinion.
I think you could achieve the same or even better air barrier for a lower initial cost if you placed 3/8" OSB on the bottom of the top truss cord and spray foam that. In that case you still have your ventilation gap of 4" or 6", you still have the insulation and barrier of the foam and no problem with replacement of roof decking.
Why not put it on top in lieu of the foam board as he suggests? Really in the 3rd example, it just needs to be a rigid surface for the spray foam to cling to, why couldn't it be ¼“ even? (IDK if that exists in a code compliant material, but theoretically at least).
You can put that foam board on the inside of your roof, get the foil backed foam board-tape the seams. I’m an HVAC contractor and weve done that to a few homes that didn’t wanna tear there whole house apart
You would have to get the details right, but I think it would be possible. I run whole home dehumidifiers in my builds and will allow for some dehumidification in the attic
Absolutely! This is my preferred method. I pretty much exclusively build metal roofs, but I’m playing with designs that might* help people who are trying to build at lower costs.
I prefer to vent everything where possible. The biggest problem i see with spray foam is the weather barrier that is applied on top of the sheathing. Spend big money on spray foam and put cheap synthetic felt down over it..
I dont get why builders still lap rafters and ceiling joist. Run a rim board on the ceiling joist, plywood the top of the ceiling joist and zip tape the whole deal. Cellulose the cavity and put rigid foam over the plywood. You get proper air sealing and you avoid that weak R value by the eaves.
Why are you putting your mechanicals in an unconditioned space? Given modern building science and logic this is a poor design. The delta for air con or heat in a ventilated attic is huge, energy inefficient and asking for problems.
I'd second the ZIP roof panels. This set up is overthrowing and it's labor intensive. The number one thing in construction now is labor, it's the reason housing costs are going up. It may pencil out cheaper right now but if he keeps using it, im betting it'll cost more in the long run as the cost increase will be very noticeable before reassessing and realizing something else would have been better for the last couple years. My two cents.
Hi hi. If I wanted to install a standing metal seam roof, would the OSB sheathing layer be required at all? (Assumption being that I include horizontal boards in addition to the vertical boards included in the mockup.)
DO NOT APPLY FOAM DIRECTLY TO METAL ROOFING. My church did this with corrugated metal roof and the effect is that the expansion and contraction of the roof caused the screw holes to widen resulting in leaks and rotten wooden trusses. Interestingly the same foam was applied directly to the corrugated metal roof on the prefab metal gym building and there have been no issues. It has to be related to the thermal expansion rates of the insulated metal and wood.
No offense Jordan, but the code already specified how many inches of impermeable insulation or impermeable + permeable combo will one need. In case of low pitch roofs not enough roof slope to create "greenhouse effect" due to pitch thus there is not enough pull for hot air to properly vent it. I do understand your concerns about rood decking not able to dry to inside. BUT Leave engineering to engineers.
he's not as concerned about the ventilation with it being nominal. He's talking about not having to replace all the foam under the roof deck. In his assembly the roof decking won't be in as much jeopardy because there is a slope for any water penetration possibilities, roof decking can be replaced easily.
It would be more helpful for the rest of us if you actually explained the details. Saying it is in the code is only marginally helpful. Explaining where it is, what is says and what it means would be much more helpful since the rest of us are trying to understand this. Leave the communication to the communicators.
@@spenceralridge4958 "Leave the communication to " .. that is stupendous, sorry. I posted the engineering. Are you asking where is that in Your local building code considering 1 millions jurisdictions? Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D., P.Eng, ASHRAE See: www.energy.gov/eere/buildings/articles/building-america-webinar-high-performance-enclosure-strategies-part-i . But using your own words -- Leave engineering to the engineers 😁, and not the communicators. Ha ha ha ha
@@jsongraham There are eng details how to do roofs correctly based on USA zone hose is in. The decking will be fine if it can dry in some way. It should NOT rot, I own 70 y.o. farm house with good decking, still original. Jordan vs Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D Building Science -- who should we all listen to?
I agree with your continuous air barrier and the "perfect" wall assembly, but it's not the spray foams fault for a leaky roof. I'm still putting spray foam insulation below my roofline, but am definitely going to create space for things to dry out using furring strips. Spray foam below a roofline is a good idea, when the roof assembly is proper! Just dont agree with the title of your video. It's yet again, anti spray foam propaganda.
Just discovered this " fix" when water began running into my living room under hard rain.. ive been here 4 years and its thr first time its ever leaked. Some dumb bandaide repair that i get to repair
cut out the foam and take a can and fill it back in? if you use synthetic underlay and someone that knows what they are doing as far as installing shingles then the two reasons your giving are irrelevant
if you have a poly iso under the roof decking with out the air/rain screen (on the roof) then he is saying that the roof decking will still need replacing. It's actually worse if you put a closed cell poly-iso under the roof decking without the rain screen. Because you'll actually never see if you have a roof leak until it is too late. With an open spray foam it'll sponge and discolor so you can actually see.
spray foam is bad period i work as a volunteer firefighter in 2020 Christmas we sat down for dinner we had a house fire to go to wanted to have a table empty fast to start a fire my fire all work as on in some way the house had a renovation done to it before the young family moved into it before Christmas the 4 deaths of the young children went to a murder charge on the contractor I helped with this investigation the young father before he passed away did ask me to look into this contractor work he did wow we did fine the fold that they had everything that was to done to the renovation to this house and all the permits were fake for this job to the house did not pass any of its inspections what we did catch quickly was the wiring that did start this heavily black toxic smoke in this fire cell we had that night the same date was on the re-inspection of this house and all of the same person passed all of the variations from the others who did this inspection was a cousin to this company who done this work electrician who did this was not one too was and another cousin as to the fire, spray foam was covering up all of the bare wire that needed to be fixed ot the bad plumping to the farm was melding and making the toxic heavy black smoke in the house there was in the contract that did say NO spray foam in the reno they did ask for the Rockwell insulation to be used they did not use it at all murder charges have been laid in all of the companies who worked in that reno he was in the Middle East when he was tipped off he would be arrested when it came back here we did hear he was killed over there by the terrorist group he was with he was a while known one to hide inand another county to stay out of reach of being killed his family came over as refugees Americans forced canadian to take their refugees too how all of them did make it to Canada be American not taken there refugees themself
I think spray foam is bad and never should be used for many reasons. But if you did want to go the spray foam route, you could put tyvek over the roof before sheathing. That will at least solve the problem of it sticking to the sheathing. I'm not sure if having a breather material on top of the sheathing would be approved by the shingle manufacturer.
Thanks for the great video Jordan. I'm an architect and 20 years ago the builder I do most of my work with came to me with the approach of doing spray foam to the underside of the roof deck. I was reluctant at first due to lack of ventilation but was sold on the conditioned attic. I have probably about eight houses with this, most with that builder. I also renovated a church and did the same method to help eliminate ice damming. The damming didn't go away not so much because of the new insulation, but probably because the existing masonry walls had minimal insulation that was allowing heat to get to the underside of the soffits and roof. It was also on a West wall with a tree creating shade and Shadow throughout the day, which screwed up any continuous daylight on the roof. I did a little more research and found a Lstiburek video where he said you still have to ventilate these roofs, particularly in Northern climates. Your solution with the battens and an additional sheathing system is what I concluded we should had done and I advised the church that when they re-roof they should add this as well. I also came across a system called the DCI SmartBaffle, a PVC panel like corrugated cardboard that creates ventilation chutes between the joist underneath the sheathing. I honestly don't know which approach would be cheaper but I plan to look at it the next house I do.
I've been a journey carpenter for 35 years, and I love your building envelope system. I live in Canada, and built R2000 homes for years. Your method is very well founded. 👌
Why not secure the old deck the best you can then add a second layer on top of it?
Yep that's the standard. Only issue is not being able to inspect trusses to make sure your nails are hitting.
Foam adhesive takes care of most of the risks of anchoring being an issue.
Modern sheathing issint going to end up like 1970s plywood.
I thought the same thing, but could possibly have an issue with moisture getting between the two layers of decking, then being driven towards the inside and into the spray foam. Could resolve that issue with furring strips between the two layers for an air gap, like in his 3rd option. Would then just need to deal with the increased deck thickness when it comes to the facia and any penetrations that have to be a certain distance above the decking.
I’ve been wondering specifically about this and I’m very glad to see a builder who I respect going straight at it with an explanation.
The hvac is inside the insulation. You need to rewatch this video.
@@sparksmcgee6641I’m not sure what my comment has to do with HVAC ?
Definitely interested! Thank you for taking the time and sharing this.
Spray foam does not void a shingle warranty. The Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act prevents this. What it does do is give the manufacturer the easiest out to be able to deny a warranty claim because the deck is unventilated and the manufacturer will inevitably claim the inadequate ventilate caused the failure and it’s not a manufacturer defect. All manufacturers have issued TB’s on this.
Take them to court. All shingle manufacturers have tested their shingles to be good at a higher temperature then what foam will cause. They decline because they keep getting away with it.
Hi Jordan, this might be a silly question, but is there a risk of condensation on the inside face of the 2" of polyiso? Or is it considered permeable enough that any moisture would condense on the roof deck and be dried out by the venting? In the case of the former, should the attic be conditioned appropriately to remove moisture to in the interior?
Replacing the roof wood is more of a pain in the ass than calling a guy out to spray the repaired areas. There’s houses from the 20’s with original wood on the roof, your first two concerns about spray foam are not even worth stressing over.
I really like the idea but what if it’s a more complex roof with valleys, no one really builds simple gable houses anymore.
This can be done on almost all roof types...the more complex the roof the more attention needs to be paid to the details related to roof transitions.
I sprayed a hip roof because you just can't get enough ridge ventilation.
@@semosancus5506 not really a builder here - just a guy who spends too much time thinking about how to solve problems on my own homes/projects 😆
Pretty sure you would need some engineering/design help but you could probably size roof vents that can be set close to the peek of the hip roof on the faces to aid in venting the roof assembly..
This is not insurmountable problem in my mind...a good engineer or architecture (or builder) should have a solution since such roofs are fairly common even on new builds and as long as they have experience with such a roof system, they have probably dealt with the problem before...
In my area the hip roofs are mostly on ranch style homes so they still have a substantial amount of ridge go use for venting but I live in an older neighborhood so yeah...
IMO, just spraying it at the deck is a recipe for disaster in the long run...
You'd be happy to know that I built a simple rectangle with 1 single 4/12 roof pitch. Very easy very simple. It's also vented
Well, they should. :) The trick will be getting enough ventilation at the peak of the witch hat roof. Ridge vents up the hip? I would be concerned about getting enough ventilation with or without the insulated deck.
How do you get your shear values on this assembly? I assume a structural screw through the flat 2x?
I would run that by your engineer for exact specifications, but Zip has a good starting point for their zip R system
@@JordanSmithBuilds There's really no getting around the fact with this type of foam insulation. You are putting all the screws in bending, which drops their strength by a ton. Plus, you lose the added strength that closed-cell spray foam gives you. I would rather have CCSF with a plywood deck; you can cover it with an ice and water shield type product and build an airgap with 2 by material and another layer of decking over it.
That's a pretty nice design! Very hard to find subs that want to try new things, but hope to find people I can get creative with. I might have to do a lot of the extra work myself on my next house.
Can foam to roof deck with no problems. Both can pose issues and challenges when repairing. Enough R-value and humidity control and you're good inside. Good roof outside. Water will eventually make it through the foam. Can cut out areas and repair. Also can seal out leaks and prevent costlier damage.
I have seen a 50% drop in my electric bills: I had an energy audit done on a 33 year old home that had R38 on the ceiling joist(attic) and no insulation in the roof rafters. New Energy Start standard in Baltimore is R60 in the attic -- local power company is pushing R47 -- local code is R38. My basement and crawl spaces were vented to the outside and there was no insulation in the basement ceiling. Energy auditor wanted to spay foam the rafter and crawl space walls. My neighbor has his own roofing business and he said I should not/not put spay foam in the rafters -- I agreed. I had no problem with space foam on the crawl space walls. I decided to install Rafter Baffles, R38 fiberglass insulation in the rafters, and Perforated RadiantGUARD under the rafters-the house already had ridge vents. The attic temperature now stays about half way between the interior house temperature and outside temperature. The attic can dry out like a vented attic via the Perforated RadiantGUARD though the fiberglass insulation (Rockwool would have been better, but $$$$). Rafters sheathing can dry out via the air space between the sheathing and Rafter Baffles. My effective attic insulation is now a little less than R72 (R38 in rafters plus R38 in ceiling joist) because of the R13 insulation in the attic side walls. The attic HVAC system temperature now stays near the half way point between inside and outside temperatures -- better than setting in 17F in the winter and 140F in the summer. I also added foam boards to crawl spaces and basement walls. I also installed an ERV In lieu of Energy auditor 's suggestion to use a bathroom vent set to vent the house at 50cfm - 50cfm would have cost me $$$ in the winter and summer. by the way, I only turn on the ERV when the outside temperature is +/- 3 degrees of my inside temperature. (might have been more cost effective in using the bathroom fan but no one sells a controller connected to the house inside and outside temperatures to control a bathroom fan.) I still have some insulation work to do behind some knee walls and when the HVAC system is upgraded, I'll add R8 to the attic duct work.
I think im going to do the same approach
for the rafter insulation did you use unfaced insulation covered by a continuous perforated RadiantGURARD sheet?
@@thelosian Yes, I used unfaced insulation covered by a continuous perforated RadiantGURARD rolls. I also taped all the joints. I had a second energy audit done and the energy auditor quoted me a price to finish the knee walls area(s) based on my approach.
One additional point. In Baltimore, our temperatures can change throughout the day from 85F to 55F. I like to keep my inside house between 73F(winter) to 77F (summer). Seems like Honeywell needs a Smart Thermostat that can drive the house’s heat transfer function (K-value: like the home heating oil companies use) based on furnace usage data then used that data with forward looking weather forecast (the temperature and humidity ) to turn on and off a bathroom Exhaust fan to lower electric bills - use a air leaky house to benefit homeowners who does not have a modern
@@PZ-ABCTZ I'm having a hard time finding information about covering rafter insulation with radiant barrier - it seems most applications call for no rafter insulation.
Agree, all your research should show no insulation behind the radiant barrier. In fact, a radiant barrier manufacture, that I initially talked to (email with) said to put the insulation on the attic floor - then one of their coworkers said my approach was OK. So why did I put the radiant barrier below R38 insulation in the rafters? There are lots of reasons driving my approach:
(1) My local power company wants R47 (Energy Star wants R60) and I only have R38 in the joists below the attic
(2) I did not want to lose attic storage space by adding more installation on the floor. I have a very large unheated attic space -- the center part is 16’x40’ of 8’ clearance. I will one day put insulation behind the attic knee walls.
(3) Using spray foam in the rafters can cause rafter rot and off gassing can last years. Note that homeowner in the UK are having problems selling their homes with spray foam because mortgage companies will not give mortgage on house with spray foam because of timber (wood) rod issues. I anticipate one day a large class action lawsuit against Baltimore's BGE power company because of their EMPOWER program efforts to spay form homeowner's attic.
(4) I only wanted one vapor barrier so water or water vapor would not get trapped near wood. Already having a vapor barrier behind the drywall and 2nd vapor barrier desirable due to wood rot and mold issues.
(5) Insulation that is not support over time will degrade and fall down (suggest reviewing “crawl space” videos of what happens to insulation)
The reason I used radiant barrier was (1) to keep the insulation from falling down but could have used metal wire, (2) I used perforated RadiantGURARD so water vaper would pass through the radiant barrier to dry out the attic. (3) I’m a degree (BSEE , Master degree engineer, plus I designed and built my own home). I have lots of Radio Frequency (RF) engineering design experience and training. IR reflection off of the radiant barrier will require space behind the radiant barrier to act as a radiant barrier (technically between 6 to 12 IR wavelength of space - the Impedance of the wave will change toward 377 ohm based on the number of IR wavelength away from the radiant barrier… etc), but fiberglass insulation has lots of space so my engineering insight suggest that radiant barrier below fiberglass insulation will still act as a radiant barrier but degraded. I anticipated very little energy savings benefits during summer (Insulation just heats up) but lots, repeat lots, of heat retention benefit during winter. (4) I wanted to air seal the attic rafters and side walls so I “tape” all the joints between the RadiantGURARD sheets to act as an air sealant - not the best but very little air would get through the perforations.
Note 1: I had a second energy audit done half way through the project to see if my approach was working, the old house CFM50 went from 6301 to 4425 (I was about 60% though the project when the blower door test was done the 2nd time). The first energy auditor only proposed a reduction to 5355 with spray foam. I am anticipating a finished project CFM50 of about 2900 using my approach that will give me a ACH50 of about 3.7 (from 8.22).
Note 2: the 2nd energy auditor saw that I have not completed the attic insulation and sealing in two very large knee wall locations and the energy auditor proposed a cost, using my approach, to finish the insulation and air sealing in the knee wall area.
Note 3: In lieu of the perforated vapor barrier, I could have used (1) netting from Home depot, or (2) smart vapor barrier like MemBrain. I do not know if MemBrain can be left exposed. I chose perforated RadiantGURARD.
Hope this helps.
Looks great functionally. I'm not quite sure how you could build it though without putting down a deck before the rigid foam. I don't believe the rigid foam would support anyone's weight.
That being said, I've seen you do some really impressive work, so I imagine you'd pull it off somehow.
This is my concern as well especially if rafters are 24" oc that's not a lot of strength
I was looking at that and wondering the same thing. One misstep and you've got a huge hole through your foam board.
Sure. I thought of that as well. However, we have people traipsing through attics with drywall ceilings below, and we manage not to go through…. often…. I think this would be a single step install, foam and then osb, foam and then osb, sheet by sheet up the roof.
@@JordanSmithBuildsMaybe reversed? 3/4 structural sheathing (plywood/OSB), air barrier, insulation (polyiso/rockwool), laths, 1/2 or 5/8 sheathing, shingles. The inside layer could be one of the combination sheathing-insulation products from Rockwool or Huber if you wanted to save install time. Or old school a layer at a time. Good video. Thanks for the thoughts!
Same thoughts, however, people traipse through attics knowing drywall will not support their weight. Unless this becomes a common building method, when this decking gets replaced, I strongly doubt the roofers are going to question whether or not this additional layer over the rafters is solid enough to walk on.
I also just see the install being too tedious, time consuming, and the details difficult to accomplish. How are they going to air seal the foam if other layers are being put on before you get adjacent sections put up?
So after 100 years when you've replaced your roof 2 or 3 times and grandchildren inherit your home after you're dead, then the spray foam becomes an issue....
You actually think you're gonna get 33 or 50 years out of today's shingles ???
I agree with your exterior insulation and air gap. Would a radiant barrier be effective within that gap or do you not need to worry about it with the foam board? I disagree with using shingles. They are a terrible product: They don't last, they damage easily, greater chance of leaking, and they absorb heat and run way hotter. I just had my standing seam metal roof installed on our 1,500 sq/ft new build a few weeks ago for only $7,200, so the price isn't that bad either. We are also spraying foam under the roof deck, which is zipped and taped.
Short answer is yes. Medium answer and long answer below and in the link.
“Interestingly, the air-space could be able to resist the incoming or outgoing heat flux from indoors even more than the external cladding when reflective insulation is used on one of the sides of the cavity.” From Rahaminijad
Full paper here- www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/23744731.2021.1898819
I've got a small cabin in a heating microclimate, so zero worries about hot days. I'm tired of the insane price of delivered propane, and I need to replace the wood-fiber siding and asphalt shingles anyway, so I thought I'd super insulate, cancel the propane, and go all electric.
I've puzzled over insulating the roof. I considered closed-cell spray foam on the underside of the deck, but the building department requires peel-n-stick roof membrane on the lower half of the roof deck to avoid damage from ice dams. I pictured my roof sheathing turning to rotting mush from trapped water. Also, I've got the impression that getting a decent R-value with only spray foam could get pricey.
I came up with exactly the same idea you show. I'll remove the shingles and roof sheathing, place multiple layers of rigid foam board insulation directly on the rafters, tape all joints, line up wood furring strips with the rafters, put plywood or OSB decking on the furring strips, finally install the peel-n-stick and shingles.
Polyiso is brilliant for Texas, but not so great in Colorado. They've changed the blowing agent over the years to address pollution issues, and have currently settled on an agent that loses R-value as the temperature drops. However, the R-value for XPS goes up with dropping temperature. Maybe I would like a bit of closed cell spray foam between rafters, so any type of polystyrene mounted directly on the rafters is out (EPS or XPS). So foil-faced polyiso directly on the rafters, then a layer or two of XPS above that.
I recently picked up a 250-count box of 10-inch TimberLOK screws from my local big-box store at a really good price. Assuming 1.5 inches to penetrate the furring strips, and at least 1.5 inches to anchor into the rafters. This leaves 7 inches for rigid foam board insulation. 1-inch polyiso and three layers of 2-inch XPS sounds about right. This should give about R40 at 25° F. Of course it'll be water-tight, air-tight, and moisture-tight, so by comparison it'll destroy the performance of any type of fluffy insulation. Even so, I might need to add a bit of insulation between rafters as my building department requires at least R49 on top (they seem to be counting on people using fluffy insulation).
I think it could work.
You should reevaluate the XPS product you are able to get today. It is not what you think it is. All foam plastic insulation manufacturers were required to change their blowing agents. The XPS industry just ignored and lobbied their way out of the change for 2 decades. Now they have a new blowing agent, new resin mixture and different additives. The XPS (NGX) made today is a completely different product than what existed 5 years ago. It should not be compared to the older XPS products as they have very little in common. It was more than a color change.
This is a great primer for anyone learning about attic insulation and a decent idea, though, i think attaching the decking to the rafters and then using attic baffles/vents between decking and foam/fiberglass might be easier. Seen guys make baffles fast and easy out of foilfaced/rigid foam and handle joints/valleys with irregular rafter layout. Thoughtful stuff about the envelope though, enjoyed this video!
I spray foamed my roof several years back prior to finishing the attic. I'm currently contemplating a roof replacement and am very concerned about what I might have to do if some of the decking needs to be replaced. While I like how well the product performs, part of me wishes I never did the spray foam in the first place.
Have you walked around on your roof? You can tell the plywood that’s needs replacing, it will be very “spongy”. Even if it’s a few sheets you have a superior system to other methods.
Hi. Great video. The preferred roof assembly shown is rafter, 2" foam, 2x4 on side for air gap, sheathing, then roof assembly. Makes a ton of sense.
Is the advice to framers & roofers to just be careful with stepping on the foam until the sheathing is laid?
Most rigid sheet foam is 150 to 250 PSI so you would have to be pretty rough to gouge it with steps. Also, most builders are used to walking rafters, the purlins laid flat over the foam would give even better footing than a rafter on edge. Only real risk I see would be a dropped tool, that's moving fast and is going to hit on a small point.
@@22kmclarenthanks for this!
How much more expensive is the 3rd option though?
Could you put polyiso on the roof of a traditional vented attic to help reduce ice dams?
Yes, but it would require a whole face be covered or its just going to move up the face.
Defiantly lose some shear strength when you put 2" foam board between the rafters and furring strip/ventilation gap… the labor costs and additional materials for this complex.. I don’t see the advantage when you look at studies of spray foam on the roof deck only increasing temperatures 2-3 degrees
I'm curious if this could be done with the same results and significantly less cost by using house wrap in place of the 2" foam.
No there isn't a shear strength loss. From the foam.
@@sparksmcgee6641 you lose strength when you add two inches of foam between the boards and sheeting. You may wish to educate yourself on installation of Huber Zipp insulated sheeting in R12.6 as an example of the detail discussed in this video. -Additional requirement of code - engineer and fastener requirements
@9:24 you can see that the foam is being placed between the rafter AND the furring strip before the OSB.
Typical construction - no specific training- no special fasteners - no engineering +and the strength of spray foam is a far superior method. Don’t argue it Sparks - build the roof he’s saying - I’ll be happy for you. :)
@TriDaddy I know that vs the same OSB without foam.
The point is you adjust for that so it meets thr specs you need or just code.
You're saying that's a "problem" or unaddressed issue with this system. These videos are targeting trades so commenting as if the work addressing shear limitations of the products or that you can't get the same shear strength installing the product as without the product just isn't true.
Every construction video doesn't need to start with "First the earth cooled and then came the dinosaurs...........".
@@sparksmcgee6641 Its possible to get the same shear strength in your approach - but it will cost you more in skilled labor and likely need engineering approval.
Likewise it would be nice for you to validate the fact that spray foam attached to the roof deck increased stregnth of the building assembly over your proposed approach.
Here is a nice video on sprafoaming the roof deck. We began doing this in 2022 that I've tracked/validated no cause for concern with shingle life. th-cam.com/video/hJTDvDPtF0A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cBpoF8Yh3FtBoZYt
I'd encourage you trying this aswell.
Would the code be satisfied with 2x10 rafters (r30) 1/2 in poly iso and 1x4 furring strips on roof For a Most affordable version?
You have 2in foam and 2x4 furring… requiring some specialty fasteners?
I would assume a jumbo nailer but I’d like to know as well.
I'd assume 5" or 6" powerlags to hold down the 2x4 furring. Those run about 30¢ each when bought in bulk.
I agree with one aspect of this, your last model may, because of the continuous outside shell be the most energy efficient, but also maybe not.
That having been said, what are your costs associated with this?
You mention the main benefit being if you need to reroof, but realistically, a properly installed roofing would only need to be replaced once in one's lifetime, if upkept properly.
Closed cell foam performs very well even with only 3" applied in a wall cavity, and as far as sealing your framing seams, that is pretty much something required in any build today.
Applied correctly I believe Closed Cell (and possibly just some suppliers) outperforms any system on the market, in bang for the buck.
I think that is indisputable.
Could you spend a lot of time and money and come up with something that could outperform a few inches of closed cell? Probably, but at what cost?
I have watch a lot of videos because I am a contractor too, but I do see people in the business spend a lot of other peoples money doing things that won't return them their money.
Personally I think we need to (at least for the most part) come up with a design that will build a good tight home without breaking the bank for the everyday build. We are driving the cost of homes up too high too fast in my opinion.
I think you could achieve the same or even better air barrier for a lower initial cost if you placed 3/8" OSB on the bottom of the top truss cord and spray foam that. In that case you still have your ventilation gap of 4" or 6", you still have the insulation and barrier of the foam and no problem with replacement of roof decking.
Why not put it on top in lieu of the foam board as he suggests? Really in the 3rd example, it just needs to be a rigid surface for the spray foam to cling to, why couldn't it be ¼“ even? (IDK if that exists in a code compliant material, but theoretically at least).
Interesting, are there any issues with bugs & mice?
If switching roofs wasn't another mortgage I'd really think about making my house more energy efficient.
You can put that foam board on the inside of your roof, get the foil backed foam board-tape the seams. I’m an HVAC contractor and weve done that to a few homes that didn’t wanna tear there whole house apart
Would you be willing to share what software you are using for that 3D rendering? Thanks in advance!
Chief Architect!
Would the 2x tails need to be beefed up to create the soffit?
What app are you using to create that illustration? Thanks.
it looks like sketchup
Could this be used in a retrofit application by mounting to the bottoms of the joists? How would you handle humidity in the attic at that point?
You would have to get the details right, but I think it would be possible. I run whole home dehumidifiers in my builds and will allow for some dehumidification in the attic
If you are doing a metal roof, could it go framing-sheathing-underlayment-rigid foam-strapping-metal roof?
Absolutely! This is my preferred method. I pretty much exclusively build metal roofs, but I’m playing with designs that might* help people who are trying to build at lower costs.
@@JordanSmithBuilds I'd love to see it. I'm picking up ideas for a very simple yet high performing house I might build to rent.
I prefer to vent everything where possible. The biggest problem i see with spray foam is the weather barrier that is applied on top of the sheathing. Spend big money on spray foam and put cheap synthetic felt down over it..
Will the foam layer that the roof sits on squish down over time? Seems like a lot of weight.
No, it will be able to maintain the weight for the long term. This has been a commercial roof detail for decades.
If you have an issue it’s a roof installation, not the foam.
What about in Tucson where the air coming in is hotter than the air in there??
So your saying the r value of the 2" foam board is the same as the spray foam?
Same stuff, different form. Only thing that matters is closed cell vs open cell
Question. In Texas what about Ridge Road in Texas ventilation
I dont get why builders still lap rafters and ceiling joist. Run a rim board on the ceiling joist, plywood the top of the ceiling joist and zip tape the whole deal. Cellulose the cavity and put rigid foam over the plywood. You get proper air sealing and you avoid that weak R value by the eaves.
I wish I could see a diagram of what you're referring to. I can't picture it.
Is there addional insulation under the 2" of ridged foam?
Yes, you would insulate between the rafters as well
what if you don't have soffits?
I’m redoing the attic insulation and ducting in a 1960’s home in Dallas. What methodology would you recommend for this?
Why are you putting your mechanicals in an unconditioned space? Given modern building science and logic this is a poor design. The delta for air con or heat in a ventilated attic is huge, energy inefficient and asking for problems.
Can always spray foam the duct work.
So then where does mechanical go in this example? Mini splits?
Texas doesn’t have basements
IT IS A REAL EASY SOLUTION BY USING ZIP PANELS FOR ROOF PANELS.
SIP PANELS ROOF GOOD ALSO!
AND NEVER USED SHINGLES - METAL ROOFS LAST FOREVER!!!
I'd second the ZIP roof panels.
This set up is overthrowing and it's labor intensive. The number one thing in construction now is labor, it's the reason housing costs are going up.
It may pencil out cheaper right now but if he keeps using it, im betting it'll cost more in the long run as the cost increase will be very noticeable before reassessing and realizing something else would have been better for the last couple years.
My two cents.
I would worry about bugs in the air space, in the siding at least,
We use a screen detail at the vents to keep the bugs out
Hi hi. If I wanted to install a standing metal seam roof, would the OSB sheathing layer be required at all?
(Assumption being that I include horizontal boards in addition to the vertical boards included in the mockup.)
DO NOT APPLY FOAM DIRECTLY TO METAL ROOFING. My church did this with corrugated metal roof and the effect is that the expansion and contraction of the roof caused the screw holes to widen resulting in leaks and rotten wooden trusses. Interestingly the same foam was applied directly to the corrugated metal roof on the prefab metal gym building and there have been no issues. It has to be related to the thermal expansion rates of the insulated metal and wood.
No offense Jordan, but the code already specified how many inches of impermeable insulation or impermeable + permeable combo will one need. In case of low pitch roofs not enough roof slope to create "greenhouse effect" due to pitch thus there is not enough pull for hot air to properly vent it. I do understand your concerns about rood decking not able to dry to inside. BUT Leave engineering to engineers.
I don't recommend Matt Risinger diagonal sleepers over roof decking either.
he's not as concerned about the ventilation with it being nominal. He's talking about not having to replace all the foam under the roof deck. In his assembly the roof decking won't be in as much jeopardy because there is a slope for any water penetration possibilities, roof decking can be replaced easily.
It would be more helpful for the rest of us if you actually explained the details. Saying it is in the code is only marginally helpful. Explaining where it is, what is says and what it means would be much more helpful since the rest of us are trying to understand this. Leave the communication to the communicators.
@@spenceralridge4958 "Leave the communication to " .. that is stupendous, sorry. I posted the engineering. Are you asking where is that in Your local building code considering 1 millions jurisdictions? Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D., P.Eng, ASHRAE See: www.energy.gov/eere/buildings/articles/building-america-webinar-high-performance-enclosure-strategies-part-i . But using your own words -- Leave engineering to the engineers 😁, and not the communicators. Ha ha ha ha
@@jsongraham There are eng details how to do roofs correctly based on USA zone hose is in. The decking will be fine if it can dry in some way. It should NOT rot, I own 70 y.o. farm house with good decking, still original. Jordan vs Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D Building Science -- who should we all listen to?
Roofer here cant you for the money in power saved just put in a commercial dehumidifier and dry out the attic?
I agree with your continuous air barrier and the "perfect" wall assembly, but it's not the spray foams fault for a leaky roof. I'm still putting spray foam insulation below my roofline, but am definitely going to create space for things to dry out using furring strips.
Spray foam below a roofline is a good idea, when the roof assembly is proper! Just dont agree with the title of your video. It's yet again, anti spray foam propaganda.
Just discovered this " fix" when water began running into my living room under hard rain.. ive been here 4 years and its thr first time its ever leaked. Some dumb bandaide repair that i get to repair
cut out the foam and take a can and fill it back in? if you use synthetic underlay and someone that knows what they are doing as far as installing shingles then the two reasons your giving are irrelevant
I am a builder in Georgia, this guy is not impressive at all.
Use spray foam and condition your attic
Cover, insulating the slab,
So the trick is to sprayfoam over polyiso foam or use matts
if you have a poly iso under the roof decking with out the air/rain screen (on the roof) then he is saying that the roof decking will still need replacing. It's actually worse if you put a closed cell poly-iso under the roof decking without the rain screen. Because you'll actually never see if you have a roof leak until it is too late. With an open spray foam it'll sponge and discolor so you can actually see.
As well as Spray Jones channel
spray foam is bad period i work as a volunteer firefighter in 2020 Christmas we sat down for dinner we had a house fire to go to wanted to have a table empty fast to start a fire my fire all work as on in some way
the house had a renovation done to it before the young family moved into it before Christmas the 4 deaths of the young children went to a murder charge on the contractor I helped with this investigation the young father before he passed away did ask me to look into this contractor work he did wow we did fine the fold that they had everything that was to done to the renovation to this house and all the permits were fake for this job to
the house did not pass any of its inspections what we did catch quickly was the wiring that did start this heavily black toxic smoke in this fire cell we had that night
the same date was on the re-inspection of this house and all of the same person passed all of the variations
from the others who did this inspection was a cousin to this company who done this work electrician who did this was not one too was and another cousin
as to the fire, spray foam was covering up all of the bare wire that needed to be fixed ot the bad plumping to the farm was melding and making the toxic heavy black smoke in the house there was in the contract that did say NO spray foam in the reno they did ask for the Rockwell insulation to be used they did not use it at all
murder charges have been laid in all of the companies who worked in that reno he was in the Middle East when he was tipped off he would be arrested when it came back here
we did hear he was killed over there by the terrorist group he was with he was a while known one to hide inand another county to stay out of reach of being killed
his family came over as refugees Americans forced canadian to take their refugees too how all of them did make it to Canada be American not taken there refugees themself
🤔.....WTH are you saying🤨
what is happening here ??
This is the type of comment that keeps my coming back to TH-cam! Hope you’re good buddy…
Spray foam is rated to 1100° and it doesn't spread like fiberglass insulation or blown in. The only thing better would be mineral wool.
Dumb people that think the only foam is the Styrofoam used in packaging electronics.
Nope, not interested.
I think spray foam is bad and never should be used for many reasons. But if you did want to go the spray foam route, you could put tyvek over the roof before sheathing. That will at least solve the problem of it sticking to the sheathing. I'm not sure if having a breather material on top of the sheathing would be approved by the shingle manufacturer.
That’s a good detail.
Why is that? There are many extremely good applications of spray foam.
I like that idea. Probably won’t take long to put the tyvek down. Not sure how walkable that is though when you’re putting plywood down.
I'm sorry, but that is JUST DUMB.
Taping the joints isn't a vapor barrier.
You my friend, ignorance with a microphone.
Tape isn't insulation.