I just ordered a set of the 500 low profile teeth for my stump grinder and it was recommended that a 4 inch diamond wheel be used for sharpening. I already spent $90 on the recommended wheel but after watching your video I'm starting to think that maybe I should buy a 2.5 or 3 inch wheel also
I’m using a 3 in on my 500 series, and it’s working great. I did but buy a smaller one thinking it might work on the deep inside. I have not tried the small one as the 3 inch works well.
I just started resharpening my 1100 series Green Teeth cutters and haven't had the chance to try them in field. What's the performance difference in the flat and concave teeth...??? I can't see where you've followed up on the process and performance of either.
Thanks haylee, first I don’t have anything as big as the 1100 series, so you probably have a lot more horse power than I do. I’ve noticed as I sharpen I loose the cup and they gradually get flatter. They seem to be less aggressive. But they still work great and last a long time. I use to use the old style with a shank and a fingernail tip of carbide. Those would get dull pretty quickly. And much harder to change. I hope that helps a bit. I would love to hear how you feel about them when you have a chance to use yours the next time you grind a stump.
@@southcoastbrushcontrol9048 Thanks for the reply. I acquired a Rayco RG 1642 pull behind that was literally in pieces. It's a 42hp diesel that was fitted with 1100 series at that time. To tell you the truth I'm not sure these large teeth don't hinder the machine's overall performance. I'm going to drop down to 500 or 700 series when I use up the 1100 series that's currently on the machine. I burned up a second hand Chinese grinder last night after sharpening 5-6 teeth.
Thanks for the info. I have an old pull behind stump grinder I was thinking about putting bigger teeth on. It’s 35 hp. I don’t think I will do that now. I’ll go with the 500. That way I have all the same teeth for both machines. Also it’s time to replace this machine. I’ve been thinking seriously about the bandit Sg 40 with tracks. Any thoughts on it? The tow behind I have is an old Hodges from the late 80s. It’s a pain in the a$$. All I usually need is small enough for most gates and take my time grinding. I also have an old dosko I’ve replaced everything more than once. It runs great and Will remove large stumps if you have the time and energy. I’m getting too old for that. I want something that takes a little less effort if you know what I mean.
I'm building a stump grinder..the cutting wheel is 10"7/8" x 1/4" my question is I need the teeth and assembly for the teeth..what will work with 1/4" thick wheel?
@@southcoastbrushcontrol9048 thank you very much for your time! one more question, how thick should it be, i find lots of stones but i dont want to get one too wide
I don’t know what they recommend for this sizes. But that wheel would probably work just fine on them as well. If they are still only 20 bucks I would just start there.
I used a large green wheel in the past. It flattened the cup. you need a small grinding wheel on the 500 series. But I would love to see your method if you post a video. I’m never to old to learn a new trick.
I just ordered a set of the 500 low profile teeth for my stump grinder and it was recommended that a 4 inch diamond wheel be used for sharpening. I already spent $90 on the recommended wheel but after watching your video I'm starting to think that maybe I should buy a 2.5 or 3 inch wheel also
I’m using a 3 in on my 500 series, and it’s working great. I did but buy a smaller one thinking it might work on the deep inside. I have not tried the small one as the 3 inch works well.
@@darrenswoodworks8695 could be the camera but I think mine might be thinner, maybe that will help cup the teeth more. It's 4" x 1/8".
@@19amw87 not the camera, mine is about a 1/2” wide
No water based lubricant to cool the wheel?
I just started resharpening my 1100 series Green Teeth cutters and haven't had the chance to try them in field. What's the performance difference in the flat and concave teeth...??? I can't see where you've followed up on the process and performance of either.
Thanks haylee, first I don’t have anything as big as the 1100 series, so you probably have a lot more horse power than I do. I’ve noticed as I sharpen I loose the cup and they gradually get flatter. They seem to be less aggressive. But they still work great and last a long time. I use to use the old style with a shank and a fingernail tip of carbide. Those would get dull pretty quickly. And much harder to change. I hope that helps a bit. I would love to hear how you feel about them when you have a chance to use yours the next time you grind a stump.
@@southcoastbrushcontrol9048 Thanks for the reply. I acquired a Rayco RG 1642 pull behind that was literally in pieces. It's a 42hp diesel that was fitted with 1100 series at that time. To tell you the truth I'm not sure these large teeth don't hinder the machine's overall performance. I'm going to drop down to 500 or 700 series when I use up the 1100 series that's currently on the machine. I burned up a second hand Chinese grinder last night after sharpening 5-6 teeth.
Thanks for the info. I have an old pull behind stump grinder I was thinking about putting bigger teeth on. It’s 35 hp. I don’t think I will do that now. I’ll go with the 500. That way I have all the same teeth for both machines. Also it’s time to replace this machine.
I’ve been thinking seriously about the bandit Sg 40 with tracks. Any thoughts on it?
The tow behind I have is an old Hodges from the late 80s. It’s a pain in the a$$. All I usually need is small enough for most gates and take my time grinding. I also have an old dosko I’ve replaced everything more than once. It runs great and Will remove large stumps if you have the time and energy. I’m getting too old for that. I want something that takes a little less effort if you know what I mean.
I'm building a stump grinder..the cutting wheel is 10"7/8" x 1/4" my question is I need the teeth and assembly for the teeth..what will work with 1/4" thick wheel?
My small machine has a 3/8” wheel, regular pocket and use short bolts. They should work well. Use the 500 series of green teeth they are smaller.
I cant make out the brand of diamond stone you used. What size make and brand is it? Thank you for your time
Look up ( loonpon diamond sharpening wheel ) it comes in various names. 3” ,150 grit, diamond wheel
@@southcoastbrushcontrol9048 thank you very much for your time! one more question, how thick should it be, i find lots of stones but i dont want to get one too wide
@@donparker8288 it’s 1/2 inch wide so it fits inside.
Do I need a big drill press to sharpen mine?
what size wheel should i use for 700 and 900 teeth?
I don’t know what they recommend for this sizes. But that wheel would probably work just fine on them as well. If they are still only 20 bucks I would just start there.
Looks good. Great idea . Thanks 👍
Thank you. It works and it’s a cheap way to sharpen. Thank you for watching my videos
A very large green face wheel with flood coolant is the best way to do. I worked in a tool and cutter grinding shop was easier then your way
I used a large green wheel in the past. It flattened the cup. you need a small grinding wheel on the 500 series. But I would love to see your method if you post a video. I’m never to old to learn a new trick.
Video/ pictures or it never happened..
Awsome thx
Thank you
buy jooltool on youtube, at least drill bits, chisel's incredible.
Sounds like a plan.