I’ve learned about steering universal phasing and there is a lot going on there. It’s a important topic for all car people who cherish the feel of great steering . The 3 universal set up in this build ? Well I’m looking into my old engineering stuff now . PS, love this build . Modernising a hardtop ! Fuck yes ❤️👍🇦🇺
I dont know much about the topic, in this case I simply directed the shaft along the most obvious path without putting too much angle on either shaft. The proof will be once i test drive the car a little before panel and paint is done. I did see this however from LVVTA After seeing your comment: Correct universal joint phasing: Contrary to common belief, and information supplied by some of the larger manufacturers of aftermarket steering components, steering universals should never be phased (or ‘timed’) in-line with each other like a vehicle drive-shaft. This should be avoided at all costs, for the following two reasons: 1. Universal joints are not constant velocity joints, and will rotate with a fast and then slow rotation on the output side, with a constant speed rotation on the input side. 2. Universal joints do not rotate without the shaft lengths changing. Correct installation of more than one cross-bores when timing universals is done by advancing either the top or bottom unit by 15° to 45° clockwise or anti-clockwise, depending if it’s a left or right-hand-drive application, or a steering rack or steering box, to prevent the fast/slow velocity, and the shafts from changing length while rotating. In order to work well from a practical point of view, the universal joints may need to be out of phase by anywhere up to 45° in order to achieve a smooth steering feel. Trial and error is sometimes required to achieve the perfect end result, however it’s worth putting the time in to get this right. For more detailed information and diagrams, refer to 7.9.3 of the NZ Car Construction Manual.
Glad too see the engine back in and how you'll finally run the brake line's and the steering set up good luck with the wiring still waiting to hear it fire off definitely thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
Absolutely loving the process, and its all looking the goods, gonna be a bad ass ride when its completed, I'd love to see 👀 it in person when done ❤, enjoy your Sunday night 🌙 Snowing here at cradle Mountain 🏔🏔❄️❄️🌨🌨🌧🌧🥶🥶🔥🔥🇦🇺🇦🇺👊🍻🍻🦘🦘
It’s good to see you making significant progress. It will be interesting to see how you get around some of the issues. It’s good to see you have the Mrs on board 🙂.
Good to see you again Tom you're a legend look after yourself mate how can you beat a Ford coupe and that Ford tough engine looking forward to that Coyote rumble
if possible id suggest the power steering pump remains under the bonnet. there could be issues with lack of power in the pump or pump overheating with long pulls of oil as they werent designed to pull that far
Thanks Peter, I will look into that, but I want a clean engine bay, that's why the fuse box and battery are in the boot. So I wont be putting the pump in the engine bay, but possibly it could go under the passenger guard if there will be problems with it so far back
@@phatridesgarage3760 You know I had to google that 😆 That looks awesome, I reckon that would compliment the coupe beautifully… no matter what color you choose mate, it’s going to look amazing!
@gfenwick1 yes Glenn I believe it has changed quite alot, more weight down low on the shell . I realised when I tried to turn it on the rotisserie, before the modifications it was faurly easy to turn or rotate because I built the rotisserie for a standard falcon to freely spin. Now it its more effort to turn on its side and even harder to get on its roof. It always wants to default to up the right way. Si weight is down low , and increased by 100- 150 kg as a shell .
@@phatridesgarage3760 it will still drive like a gocart even with added weight becaise of the lower c of g shift in the x axis.(assuming x is vertical/absolute ground to roof height) measurement). you might need to miodify yr rotisseries or put EPAS on it 😀
Get a bulkhead electrical fitting ( racecar stuff ).......will look a lot neater than a hole and grommet thru the panel.......much more fiddly stuff before paint??
Great job mate it’s looking awesome. On the engine harness is it worth exploring a bulk head fitting as an alternative to having a grommet and pushing through a Deutsch plug?
@@phatridesgarage3760 TE connectivity ,Deutsch make HDP connector - in various PIN arrangements. So HDP20 as an example. Top of line would be auto sport connector these are metallic but will hurt the wallet a lot more.
I hope when you turn the key it goes brrrrm, I know if I did it, there would be atleast 1 cock up in the wiring, and yes you can go and (insert) as well 😅
I’ve learned about steering universal phasing and there is a lot going on there. It’s a important topic for all car people who cherish the feel of great steering . The 3 universal set up in this build ? Well I’m looking into my old engineering stuff now . PS, love this build . Modernising a hardtop ! Fuck yes ❤️👍🇦🇺
I dont know much about the topic, in this case I simply directed the shaft along the most obvious path without putting too much angle on either shaft. The proof will be once i test drive the car a little before panel and paint is done. I did see this however from LVVTA After seeing your comment:
Correct universal joint phasing:
Contrary to common belief, and information supplied by some of the larger manufacturers of aftermarket steering components, steering universals should never be phased (or ‘timed’) in-line with each other like a vehicle drive-shaft. This should be avoided at all costs, for the following two reasons:
1. Universal joints are not constant velocity joints, and will rotate with a fast and then slow rotation on the output side, with a constant speed rotation on the input side.
2. Universal joints do not rotate without the shaft lengths changing.
Correct installation of more than one cross-bores when timing universals is done by advancing either the top or bottom unit by 15° to 45° clockwise or anti-clockwise, depending if it’s a left or right-hand-drive application, or a steering rack or steering box, to prevent the fast/slow velocity, and the shafts from changing length while rotating.
In order to work well from a practical point of view, the universal joints may need to be out of phase by anywhere up to 45° in order to achieve a smooth steering feel. Trial and error is sometimes required to achieve the perfect end result, however it’s worth putting the time in to get this right. For more detailed information and diagrams, refer to 7.9.3 of the NZ Car Construction Manual.
Nice work! That coyote ilooks massive, such a good motor. You made that steering column change look easy 👍
Thankyou Jase !
Glad too see the engine back in and how you'll finally run the brake line's and the steering set up good luck with the wiring still waiting to hear it fire off definitely thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Leonard!
Absolutely loving the process, and its all looking the goods, gonna be a bad ass ride when its completed, I'd love to see 👀 it in person when done ❤, enjoy your Sunday night 🌙 Snowing here at cradle Mountain 🏔🏔❄️❄️🌨🌨🌧🌧🥶🥶🔥🔥🇦🇺🇦🇺👊🍻🍻🦘🦘
Thanks heaps KC !
It’s good to see you making significant progress. It will be interesting to see how you get around some of the issues. It’s good to see you have the Mrs on board 🙂.
Cheers mate, always good to have your partner supporting you
All your hard work and forward planning really starting to come together now, I'm sure you'll get the result you deserve.
Hope so! Thanks alot Brendan !
Well said Brendan 👏 👊🍻🇦🇺🏔❄️🌨🦘🦘
Hey Tom, loving the progress. Wearing your T Shirt as we watch, cheers Tony and Anna
Awesome ! thanks for the support Guys !
Another great video in which you are making good progress. Excellent craftsmanship!!. Looking forward to the next instalment already.
Cheers mate !
love vour work TOM cannot wait when the car is on the road
Thanks alot mate !
Good to see you again Tom you're a legend look after yourself mate how can you beat a Ford coupe and that Ford tough engine looking forward to that Coyote rumble
Thanks alot Russell!
Great work brother love this build and love restomods in these coupes
Cheers mate I appreciate that !
So Many things to do. But one bit at a time and Not long it will be your master piece :)
for sure thanks David !
with how fast technology is going it shouldn't be too long before someone comes up with a compact fly-by-wire steering rack, looking good mate
Cheers mate !
Great to see ya back.mate. Another awesome vid. It's getting closer. What colour ?
Not 100% sure yet mate, but one I like is Aston Martins Kopi Bronze
Starting to come together now
Could you place the remote oil filter under the left front guard. This will keep the engine bay much cleaner looking.
Yes I can thats what I may do
if possible id suggest the power steering pump remains under the bonnet. there could be issues with lack of power in the pump or pump overheating with long pulls of oil as they werent designed to pull that far
Thanks Peter, I will look into that, but I want a clean engine bay, that's why the fuse box and battery are in the boot. So I wont be putting the pump in the engine bay, but possibly it could go under the passenger guard if there will be problems with it so far back
Looks like it’s coming together awesome now mate. This car is going to be insane! What ideas are in mind for the color?
Cheers mate, I get asekd that question alot and im not 100% sure, but I am liking an Aston Martin color called Kopi Bronze
@@phatridesgarage3760 You know I had to google that 😆
That looks awesome, I reckon that would compliment the coupe beautifully… no matter what color you choose mate, it’s going to look amazing!
The end was great 😂
Thanks Jimmy!
Cool build
Thanks Matt!
Good to see you again Tom , so much work to build a car
Is the chev on a different channel or you not filming any of it 👍👍
No working on it yet mate, running a business and trying to build some cars is too much for one guy sometimes haha
the frame test nuimbers on the coupe must be insane....
Yeah the video of the engineers test outline that. But overall it is 60% stiffer than a stock body
@@phatridesgarage3760 Ive seen tghe vid, but I;m still in awe of how well engineered it is. its like a crane shipping gantry bolted onto the front :)
@@phatridesgarage3760 has the centre of gravity changed? If its down lower you’ll be driving a go cart
@gfenwick1 yes Glenn I believe it has changed quite alot, more weight down low on the shell . I realised when I tried to turn it on the rotisserie, before the modifications it was faurly easy to turn or rotate because I built the rotisserie for a standard falcon to freely spin. Now it its more effort to turn on its side and even harder to get on its roof. It always wants to default to up the right way. Si weight is down low , and increased by 100- 150 kg as a shell .
@@phatridesgarage3760 it will still drive like a gocart even with added weight becaise of the lower c of g shift in the x axis.(assuming x is vertical/absolute ground to roof height) measurement). you might need to miodify yr rotisseries or put EPAS on it 😀
Get a bulkhead electrical fitting ( racecar stuff ).......will look a lot neater than a hole and grommet thru the panel.......much more fiddly stuff before paint??
Thanks mate, where would i find one of those ? alot more to do yet
@@phatridesgarage3760 Raceworks sell them
@@phatridesgarage3760 racespec online.....
Great job mate it’s looking awesome. On the engine harness is it worth exploring a bulk head fitting as an alternative to having a grommet and pushing through a Deutsch plug?
Thanks mate ! on the bulkhead idea , Yes it is, I just need to find the right application , any suggestions?
@@phatridesgarage3760 TE connectivity ,Deutsch make HDP connector - in various PIN arrangements. So HDP20 as an example. Top of line would be auto sport connector these are metallic but will hurt the wallet a lot more.
@@anthonymiller4004 Thanks alot mate I will look into that
I hope when you turn the key it goes brrrrm, I know if I did it, there would be atleast 1 cock up in the wiring, and yes you can go and (insert) as well 😅
I hope so too mate !
Good stuff,
Cheers Sam
Are the front & rear suspension from a mustang donor ?
The Rear is, but the front is aftermarket, its a Magnum IFS from United Speedshop
Does anybody make small CV joints instead of Uni? Might be a bit notchy?
No idea mate but I will see how this goes , these not much angle on it plus the joints are high quality ones
If I don't see a "go fuck yourself" at the start of every vid from now on, I'm going to be really disappointed.
Haha I totally sympathize with that ))